The only sticking point is that a stretcher and mattress of the same length and width won’t necessarily fit into the same tent.

Stretcher height (45cm in my test) combined with a sloping tent wall meant that, in some of our display measurements, the usable space for a stretcher shrank by up to 45cm. In a few cases that took a tent from five people on mats down to just two on stretchers.

The formula (for a 45cm-high stretcher):

Tent Floor Length – Reduction Per Sloped Wall = Available Stretcher Length

How To Find a Functional Stretcher & Tent Combination

One size doesn’t fit all here. In my calculations I’ve considered common tent styles and worked out a number to guide how well a given stretcher will fit inside a tent. Make sure you also factor in head height. For the most part you should still be able to sit up, but some smaller domes may not have the headroom to make the setup comfortable.

Keep in mind that if your stretcher is also positioned along a tent wall, you’ll lose space at each end and along the side against the wall, assuming that wall is sloped too. If the walls slope sharply, this can eat into your sleeping space, because your sleeping gear adds to the total stretcher height. In some cases the inner tent wall may end up very close to your face.

Use the guides below to calculate stretcher suitability for popular tent styles.

Boxy Touring & Cabin-Style Tents

Reduce usable length for each sloped wall by 15cm

A cabin-style tent has a boxier shape than other styles, with flat, relatively upright walls. These tents include the popular Coleman Instant Up and OZtrail Fast Frame series, along with the square and cabin versions of the BlackWolf Turbo tents.

This measurement only applies to the single-room versions of these tents. The models with an extended sleeping area or multiple rooms are listed below.

3-4 Person Dome Tents

Reduce usable length for each sloped wall by 20cm

The walls of a traditional 3-4-person dome tent tend to slope more than cabin-style tents, so adding a stretcher removes roughly 20cm from either end. This further confirms there’s no blanket formula to cover the various shapes and structures across all tents. With 40cm lost in total, these tents leave room for perhaps one stretcher.

Manufacturers these days are designing dome tents with more upright walls to create extra internal space.

Family Camping & Touring Tent Sleeping Areas

Reduce usable length for the end sloped walls by 25-30cm

Family dome tents such as the Coleman Instant Up Northstar, BlackWolf Turbo Twin models, and OZtrail Fast Frame BlockOut Lumos 10P are built around a central room with a sleeping area at each end, where the outer wall slopes sharply. Because that slope is so pronounced, the end rooms need extra reduction: adding a stretcher can cost up to 30cm.

If you put a stretcher on each side, one end sits flush against the inner wall, but the 30cm lost at the sloped end shrinks a room measuring 220cm at floor level to around 190cm at stretcher level, which won’t fit most stretchers (the majority run 195-205cm). In these tighter spaces, a 25cm-high stretcher or a sleeping mat is the better bet.

Oztent RV & RX Tents

Reduce usable length for each sloped wall by 35cm

Oztents have a unique structure: the rear wall slopes significantly while the other three stay upright. That slope reduces the usable space by 35cm for a 45cm-high stretcher.

These are single-skin tents, so you want to avoid touching the inner walls as much as possible, especially in cold weather. If your stretcher is too tight, it can create a rub point that, over time, wears away at the tent’s inner.

Most Oztents will fit one stretcher comfortably, while the Oztent RV-5 will fit two at a squeeze. Even so, stretchers are a good option for campers with mobility issues, and for them a shorter or lower stretcher works best.

Tents With An Extended Sleeping Area

Reduce usable length for each sloped wall by 45cm

This category covers the boxy cabin-style tents from earlier, but with an extended sleeping area or extra room that usually has one wall sloping more than the rest. The BlackWolf Turbo Plus is a good example: a box-shaped front room with a steeply sloped section at the back. The rear slope is the only place you lose this much space. The remaining walls can be calculated as outlined above.

This measurement also works as a guide for similarly shaped sleeping additions, such as the OZtrail Gazebo Portico tents, which have three upright sides and a sloped rear wall. The Darche Safari 260 and 350 are an exception: all their walls slope significantly, so apply the 45cm reduction to every wall, not just the rear.

Note: These measurements are only intended to be used as a guide. Each tent will have its own unique structure.

Summing It Up

For sleeping mats up to airbed height (around 15cm), a tent’s floor dimensions are a good enough guide, since a standard mat only reaches the top of the bucket floor. Stretchers need more thought: the tent’s design, the space you’ll lose, and how comfortable you want to be. Some point to the storage space a stretcher frees up underneath, but the space that really matters is around your head and feet, where a poor fit interferes with sleep.

Stretchers are a popular choice, and not just for campers with mobility issues. Even so, I lean towards the sleeping mat ranges from Exped, Zempire and OZtrail, which offer better comfort and insulation than most stretchers. A stretcher usually needs a sleeping bag or insulating layer to be much more comfortable than it is on its own, and its feet can damage tent floors. Still backing stretchers over mats? Convince me.

My verdict: a stretcher can certainly fit in a tent, but doing so means weighing up a real loss of space. Think about leg room, walking space, how easily you can climb in and out, and how freely you can move around inside. So… does that stretcher fit that tent?

The post ‘Will That Camp Stretcher Fit in This Tent?’ appeared first on Snowys Blog.

You might think it’s ready for adventure, but hold up, there are a few things that you need to know first about taking care of your swag.

In this article, we’ve put together all the information, tips and advice for seasoning, packing and cleaning your swag, so that you get the most out of your new campsite companion.

It’s a good idea to season your swag before first use. Image: Darche

What is seasoning?

Most swags are made from some sort of proofed polycotton canvas. This is because canvas is so hard wearing, while also being very breathable. This makes it the perfect fabric for a small shelter as it provides a comfortable environment in both warm and cold conditions.

Seasoning is a term that refers to dousing the swag in water so that all of the tiny holes made by the needle during the manufacturing process will swell to seal up the holes. This is a step that will prevent water from leaking into your shelter.

Many modern swag fabrics are pre-shrunk and the manufacturers state that seasoning is not requires, manufacturers are also seam sealing swags whenever they can too, which essentially removes the need to season modern swags. However, there’s not harm in setting it up in the backyard and giving is a good runover with the hose before first use to ensure there are no issues, best to find these in the backyard than once you’re at camp.

The canvas on your swag needs some TLC before use. Image: Burke & Wills

How to season your swag

To season your swag, just follow the steps below, or check out the video for a visual demonstration.

1. The first thing you need to do is take your swag out of its bag.
2. Then remove the mattress and set up the swag.
3. Once you’ve done that, either use a clean sponge and a bucket of water or a hose to wet down the exterior fabric of your swag thoroughly. You may find the water beads off easily on a new swag, this is fine, you don’t need to make the water soak in if it doesn’t want to.
4. Then go over any spots that you have missed with a wet cloth, especially in any areas where there is stitching.
5. Once you’ve wet down the entire surface, if it’s a clear and sunny day, put the swag out in the sun to dry. Otherwise, put it in an undercover but well-ventilated area to dry out.
6. Voila! Your swag is seasoned.

Make sure your swag is 100% dry before rolling it up.

Seasoning a swag is actually pretty straightforward – which you can see in the video above.

Packing up your swag

Sometimes getting your swag back into its bag properly can be a bit of a struggle, especially when time’s a-ticking and you want to get back home before it’s dark.

Each swag will have slight differences, but the steps should be pretty much the same for every model. With this in mind, we’ve created a how-to video which shows you the best way to roll up your swag so that it fits back in its carry bag as easily as possible.

Having a bit of trouble rolling your swag up? Get some tips on packing it away in the video above. 

Keep your swag ready to go at a moment’s notice. Inside I keep an inflatable pillow, sheets and a doonah, and a folded up tarp. The tarp is to spread out as a ground sheet or suspend over the top in heavy rain.

Cleaning your swag

When you get home after a trip, you’re probably bushed and ready for a long nap. But, before you chuck everything back in the shed and flop on the couch – there are a few things you should do to take care of your gear.

For cleaning, you’ll need a clean cloth, soft brush and a bucket of water. Don’t use any detergents, soaps or cleaning products on your swag. These contain solvents and chemicals that may compromise the performance of the canvas, so stick to water and elbow grease. Brush off any caked on mud or grime and wipe down any areas that are dirty. It’s important to ensure that you clean off sand, earth or vegetation from your swag as leaving it on can damage the fabric.

Once it’s completely dry, roll it back up, put it in its bag and store it in a dry place until it’s time for your next trip.

For longevity, wipe off any dirt after each time you use your swag.

Storing your swag

Where you store your swag is actually quite important. You need to keep it away from moisture and sunlight as much as possible so that it doesn’t fade from exposure to UV rays or get mouldy.

If you do get a spot of mould, then brush it off with a stiff bristle brush, and vacuum the area to get rid of any residual spores. You’ll then need to apply a mould rid product according to the instructions, and then you may need to re-waterproof the area with a canvas waterproofing treatment.

It’s also worthwhile to keep it off the floor of your shed, as you want to keep it dry and out of the way of rodents and insects. A dry shelf in your shed or a cupboard at home is a perfect spot for your swag when not in use. Don’t leave it rolled too tightly for long periods of storage, otherwise, you might find that your mat will take a while to bounce back. For more on organising your gear shed, check out this article here.

Keep your swag tucked away in a cool and dry spot to prevent any damage. 

And that’s how you take care of your swag!

Now that you know how to keep your swag looking good and performing the way you need it to, you’re ready for that outback or campsite adventure.

The post Seasoning, Packing & Cleaning Your Swag appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this blog, we prepare the fire pit from scratch, outlining how to light a campfire efficiently, cost-effectively, and even using wet wood.

Collect the kindling, gather the tinder, strike a match – and read on

Preparation Prevents Poor… Campfires?

Now, you could get all extreme by rubbing two sticks together, lighting a ball of wispy grass in your hand, and thumping your chest in a Bear Grylls-esque display of survival prowess.

Or, if you take the time preparing the right materials – with a few simple cheats, one match should be all you need to get a fire started safely. Sorry, that rules out that jerry can of petrol!

Before You Leave Home…

Collect these items:

• Tinder: newspaper, a few small twigs, firelighters (can be store-bought or homemade).
• Ignition method: lighter/matches/flint striker.
• Wood processing items: a saw, hatchet, knife, and club.

Here we have some tinder (newspaper ) and ignition, in the form of a flint striker, and a hatchet for splitting logs. 

Before you pull out the matches…

Collect Enough Wood to Last 30 Minutes

At least! It makes for sloppy spectating watching someone who’s finally got their first bit of flame in damp timber, running around trying to find some more material to keep it going. Collect all the timber you think I’ll need for the majority of the time; if there’s any extra, leave it as a gift for the next person!

Be Environmentally Conscious

Don’t collect any standing timber, live or dead, as both are habitat for animals.

Organise the Timber

Do so into size stacks, based on categories of thickness – starting with the finest twigs, working up to finger-width, then arm width. It’s a good idea to have them in lengths that will make for easy use (say, half a meter). Use your wood processing tools to assist with this.

Collect Your Tinder

A crucial part of the process; it should be dry, fine, and easily take a flame, This is where having some with you already is handy. Otherwise, look for dry grass underneath tussocks, dry leaves, or the inside of bark (beware of Huntsman spiders with that last one!).

If you’re cooking

Grab your cooking gear now so you don’t leave the campfire unattended, you may even like to set some of it up before you light the fire.

Checkout the full range of campsite cooking gear on our website here >>

A nice little campfire, well on its way. Image: Kooikkari. 

Starting a Fire in Wet Weather

Starting a fire in wet conditions can be an absolute nightmare, and sometimes it doesn’t even happen. That said, follow these steps and you’ll be fostering a flame in no time.

• Use wood from the inside of logs; this is where it’s the most dry
• Lots of kindling is key!
• Use large logs or rocks to build a platform to hold your fire off of wet ground
• Lay the wood beside your fire, to promote drying as you go
• Bring extra materials

Starting Your Campfire – Step By Step Guide

1. Collect Both Small Twigs and Larger Logs
   Gather a good heap of wood, ranging from small twigs to larger logs. Finding plenty of dead twigs and small branches is key. These are best snapped off dead fallen trees, or even dead standing trees. You are looking for branches that make that loud cracking sound when snapped (this means they are definitely dead).
   Then, collect larger pieces of wood and logs, avoiding anything that has been on the ground for too long – these will be the most sodden, and may also be hiding creepy crawlies underneath!
2. Create Some Dry Kindling
   Split a large log into quarters using an axe or hatchet. The inside of larger logs will be the driest wood you can find. Then, using a hatchet or knife, shave the dry wood and create some kindling. Snap all the small twigs and place them in a heap next to where the fire is to be made.
3. Build a Platform
   Use large logs or even rocks to build yourself a platform that will keep your fire off the wet ground. This will provide it with airflow, and eventually burn the wood underneath (if you choose to use logs).
4. Build Your Fire
   Build your fire into a teepee shape using small twigs and branches, placing the kindling underneath. This also allows for good airflow, dries more wood while burning, and helps your fire light faster. You could also lay one large log down and lean the rest against it, lighting your fire underneath. This will both support your fire and dry large wood quickly.
5. Light Your Kindling
   You are now ready to light your kindling! If you have any paper, cloth, or other material to help ignite your fire, place it in with your kindling. Use a lighter or matches to light the dry kindling or paper. You may need to gently blow on the embers to help the fire along. Once the kindling is lit, it will burn and start to dry and catch onto the small twigs you have placed on top.
   
   Additional materials you could add to get your fire going are:
   • Flavoured corn chips
   • Dry spaghetti
   • Steel wool
   • Cloth or clothing
   • Paper or toilet paper
   • Or, best of all, some sort of fuel-based fire-lighters. These can be purchased from most camping shops.
6. Add Wood Carefully
   You now have yourself a small fire. Continue to add wood, working up by size. It’s important to keep adding plenty of wood to the fire to help it dry quickly and keep alight – remembering not to overload or smother it. Lay the rest of your wood close to the fire, allowing it to dry before burning. Continue to do this throughout the evening, and your fire will stay warm and bright.
   This method will help you to light a fire. It may not be easy, but it will work!
7. Don’t Forget to Extinguish It!
   As important as it is to light your fire, it is as equally important to put it out before departing the site. You can do this by extinguishing it with water, or, as a last resort, burying it with dirt or sand. The latter is not a preferred method, as the next group of people to come along may burn themselves. To prevent this and avoid injury, it should be clearly marked.

Some Final Words of Campfire Wisdom

• Beware of dry leaves: too many will smother a small flame.
• It’s a good idea to not use all the timber from each stack the first time, in case it does not work.
• With damp timber, you’ll need more ‘small’ fuel to get the ‘bigger’ fuel to dry and catch alight. Plan for this accordingly when creating your size stacks.

From here, the fire can help with a multitude of tasks with different arrangements, such as for cooking, efficiency, warmth, or longevity. Now you’ve got the basics down pat – sit back and enjoy the warmth of your fire!

Now get cooking, see our guide on cooking the perfect campfire damper here >>

The post Beginner’s Guide to Starting a Campfire appeared first on Snowys Blog.

You don’t need a bread maker, Thermomix, or arsenal of kitchen utensils. There are loads of damper recipes online; but most of them require multiple ingredients and to work the dough for a few minutes. When you work damper too much though, it pushes all the air out and the result is a very dense dough.

So, with some trial and error, here’s what we’ve found to be the best way to cook damper in a camp oven! The finished product is always perfect: crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and serves approximately four happy damper campers!

There’s nothing like warm, campfire-cooked damper on a winter camping trip. Credit: Campfire

Classic Damper Ingredients:

• 2 x cups self-raising flour
• A pinch of salt
• Water

Optional Ingredients:

Sweet

• Lemonade instead of water
• Choc chips, or fruit and nuts

Savoury

• Beer instead of water
• Cheese and Italian herbs

Tools of the Trade:

• Camp oven (any size or material. The photos in this blog showcase a 9-Quart cast iron model)
• Long-handled shovel
• Long leather gloves
• A large kitchen knife

Browse our full range of camping cookware here >>

Your Campfire

The cooking process involves consistently replacing hot coals or heat beads, so ensure your campfire has an abundance!

The cooking process involves consistently replacing hot coals. Credit: David Leslie

Need to learn how to get a campfire started? Check out our beginners guide here >>

Method:

1. In a bowl, add two cups of self-raising flour (approximately half a cup per person) and a pinch of salt.
2. Slowly add water and mix until ingredients start to combine and form a dough. This is the most important step, as you don’t want to knead the dough; it needs to be left as is. Using your hands, cup the dough and slowly work it until a round damper shape is achieved.
   Tip: If the dough sticks to your hands every time you pick it up, it is too moist – add more flour.
   
3. Add optional extras of choice.
4. Sprinkle the base of the camp oven with flour – or, cover a trivet with foil and lightly flour it. Place the damper on top, and the lid on the camp oven. Ensure there is a gap of at least 5cm between the damper and the walls of the oven all the way around.
   
5. Scatter about half a shovel of coals loosely on the ground next to the fire; a loose scattering is all that’s needed.
6. Place the camp oven on the scattered coals, and scoop a full shovel of coals on top. You can also use heat beads; around 10 on the bottom, and 14 on the top (using a 9-Quart oven).
   Tip: Never cook the damper in the fire, as it will easily burn.
   
7. Check the damper after 15 minutes, and every 10 minutes afterwards. It should need approximately 20–25 minutes of cooking time, depending on its size. Replace with fresh coals or heat beads on top each time.
8. Once golden and crusty on the outside, push a long knife through the middle. If the damper is cooked through, the knife will be clean when removed.
   Tip: Another way to know that your damper is ready is if it sounds hollow when tapped.
9. Serve with your favourites spreads!

Once golden and crusty on the outside, your damper is ready! Image credits: Mick Viller

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get the perfect damper crust?

As long as you control your heat well enough, you shouldn’t have a problem achieving a crusty damper. However, camp ovens tend to retain moisture; when they do, it can be hard to achieve crispy vegetables, perfect crackling, or crunchy damper. The best way to release moisture is to crack the lid by placing a piece of wire (or similar), to allow the steam to escape.

Should I preheat my camp oven?

Some say you should, some say you shouldn’t. Mick Viller the Camp Oven Cook choses not to preheat his camp oven.

What are the best spreads?

That’s easy!

On a plain damper, you can’t go past a good smothering of butter or margarine, and maple syrup. That said, experiment with your favourite spreads! Why not vegemite, hummus, jam, or honey? Try what you enjoy.

How big should my campfire be?

Generally, it’s not the fire you’re cooking with – it’s the coals. If using coals: shovel them onto the ground beneath your camp oven, and add some more on top. Heat beads or briquettes are an alternative to coals. 

You could even cook your damper on the Ozpig!

For how long does damper keep?

Damper turns stale quite quickly. As it’s quick and cheap to make, prepare a loaf as you need it.

How versatile is damper?

Once you master the plain damper, don’t be shy to experiment with other ingredients! Try adding bacon, cheese, and BBQ sauce for a savoury damper – or for sweet, you could add sultanas, brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Damper for dinner is one way – but follow through at breakfast time with the perfect camping pancake recipe!

As it’s quick and cheap to make, prepare a damper loaf as you need it. Credit: Mick Viller

What amazing flavour combinations have you created with your damper? 

The post How to Cook Damper in a Camp Oven appeared first on Snowys Blog.

To understand the 12V battery and solar setups for the outdoors, it’s ideal to first know the difference between volts, watts, and amps. These are the three electrical ratings you’ll find stamped on the compliance stickers of electrical appliances.

You’ll need to understand the basics of these three ratings, so here’s a quick analogy:

Remember this: A battery (volts) forces an electrical flow (amps) through a cable, which produces power (watts) to run a device.

For the purpose of this article, all you really need to know is:

Amp-hours (Ah)

Calculated by multiplying Amps by hours to represent consumption over time. Deep cycle batteries have a rating that specifies how many Amp-hours (Ah) they contain.

Takeaway: Remember this formula – Watts ÷ Volts = Amps

The Basics of 12V Battery and Solar Setups in the Outdoors:

• If you want to run appliances, devices, and lighting in your campsite – you’ll need a deep cycle battery. It’s not recommended to use your vehicle’s starter battery.
• To keep your drinks cold, you’ll need to connect your fridge to a battery – which will also need to be connected to a charging system i.e. a solar panel or a running vehicle. You can’t skip the battery part, it needs to be in the system.
• There is some basic arithmetic you can use to work out how much battery power you need to power your devices, and how much solar or vehicle power you need to keep that battery topped up.

With a bit of knowledge, you’ll be powering your campsite in no time! Image: Hard Korr

Common Questions About a 12V and Solar Setup:

• ‘What size battery do I need to run your fridge – and how long will it run for?’
• ‘How do I connect my solar panel to my fridge?’
• ‘How many solar panels do you need for a caravan?’
• ‘Can I run my fridge from my car’s starter battery?’

All valid questions that we receive almost every day from customers starting out with 12V and solar power for camping. The information below answers all these questions, so by the end you’ll be armed with enough knowledge to label yourself a 12V ninja!

But first…

Solar panels are a key part of your setup. Image: Hard Korr

What’s Needed for a 12V Solar-Charged Setup?

There are three components to a basic 12-volt solar-charged setup:

1. The devices you want to run
2. A battery to power the devices you want to run (generally a deep cycle battery)
3. Something to charge the battery that is powering the devices you want to run

You can’t skip Step 2; you need a battery in your system! You’ll also need a solar controller between the solar panel and battery, to regulate the charge going into the battery. These are generally integrated into or form part of the wiring that came with your solar panel.

The factory-installed cigarette outlet isn’t heavy-duty enough for high currents. Image: Companion 

Can I Run These From a Factory Cigarette Outlet in my Car?

Good question!

Factory-installed cigarette outlets are often made with lightweight housings and cables that won’t handle high currents, or even medium currents, for long periods without becoming hot.

These outlets are often rated to handle a maximum of 120W or 10 amps (using our formula from earlier: 120W ÷ 12V = 10 Amps) at any given time, and are also generally only powered when your vehicle is on. This has them useless at the campsite.

Takeaway: A standard vehicle cigarette outlet can only power a limited number of appliances before it will overload.

They are also wired to your vehicle’s starter battery, which leads us to our next common question…

For How Long Will my Fridge Run From my Vehicle’s Starter Battery?

Not nearly as long as a deep cycle auxiliary battery or power pack will!

The starter or cranking battery on your car is designed to give a high discharge of power, known as ‘cold-cranking amps’, to start your vehicle – followed by a period of recharging from the vehicle’s alternator. A deep cycle battery, however, is much happier with a prolonged and slow discharge.

Whilst you could power your fridge for short periods from a cranking battery, we recommend only doing so whilst your vehicle is running – otherwise, you’ll potentially be calling for road service.

Takeaway: Don’t rely on your cars starter battery to run your fridge when your car is turned off.

A battery box is an option that you have. Image: Hard Korr

Is the Best Solution to Install an Auxiliary Battery or Use a Portable Power Pack?

In this article, I will refer primarily to a portable power pack, but the basics are the same for both of the following setups.

A portable power pack is generally not dependent on a vehicle, so you can locate your solar panel and power requirements wherever you need it i.e. in a tent or camp kitchen. This is versatile and ideal if you don’t have space for a second battery under the bonnet.

Another option is to install a second or ‘auxiliary’ deep cycle battery into your vehicle, where you use your vehicle’s alternator to charge the battery. This hard-wired setup is ideal for those on the move every day. It can also be beneficial for those wanting to stay in one location for a period of time as it facilitates batteries with larger power storage – but you’ll probably need to include solar charging in your setup.

Setting up an auxiliary battery in your vehicle requires a little knowledge if you are doing so by yourself. Alternatively, an auto electrician can install one professionally for you.

Check out our range of Batteries & Solar for 12V setups >>

If you don’t have space for a second battery, a portable power pack might work for you. Image: Goal Zero

How do I Work Out my 12v Power Requirements?

Grab yourself a notepad and pen, and write down all the Amp ratings for each of the appliances you want to run in your campsite – converting watts to Amps with our formula from earlier.

Let’s assume (I’m making up figures here) you want to run a 12V fridge rated at 2.7A max, and two camping lights each rated at 0.6A.

With all of these appliances running non-stop, they will be consuming 3.9 Amps. (2.7A+0.6A+0.6A = 3.9 Amps).

Consider though, that your lights will only be consuming power for a few hours in the evening and your fridge will only consume power whilst its compressor is running, which will be cutting in and out to maintain temperature.

So – hourly power consumption will, for the most part, be far less than the maximum. It will also vary over 24 hours, depending on the time of day, ambient temperature, and how often you open your fridge.

Let’s look at three different times of the day. Just as a disclaimer, I’ve made up the figures below for the sake of simple calculations:

Daytime – Fridge Only

Daytime running fridge only: 7am-5pm = 10 hours

Estimate that fridge cycles: 15 mins on/15 mins off = 30 mins/hour = 2.7/2 = 1.35 Amps

Total consumption over 10 hours = 13.5 Amp-hours

In the day, with just your fridge running. 

Evening – Fridge and Lights

Evening running fridge and lights: 5pm-9pm = 4 hours,

Estimate that fridge cycles: 10 mins on/20 mins off = 20 mins/hour = 2.7/3 = 0.9 Amps

Camping lights: 0.6A each = 0.6A x 2 = 1.2 Amps

Total consumption of 2.1 Amps over 4 hours = 8.4 Amp-hours

In the evening, with both fridge and lights in use.

Nighttime – Fridge Only

Nighttime running fridge only: 9pm-7am = 10 hours

Estimate that fridge cycles: 5 minutes on/25 minutes off = 10 minutes per hour + 2.7/6 = 0.45 Amps

Total consumption over 10 hours = 4.5 Amp-hours

At night, with just your fridge running.

If we now add the daytime, evening, and nighttime consumptions together, we get our total approximate consumption for the full day.

Total: 13.5 Amp-hours + 8.4 Amp-hours + 4.5 Amp-hours = 26.4 Amp-hours

Takeaway: By adding total consumption for the three scenarios above, the user can work out their approximate AH requirements over 24 hours.

What Size 12V Battery Do I Need?

The standard Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) or Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries, which are the most common and affordable portable deep cycle batteries, are rated to 44 Amp Hours (44 Ah). An in-vehicle or hard-wired setup is often around 100 Ah.

But, these batteries can only be discharged to 50% of their rated capacity, which gives you 22 Ah of usable power if we use a 44 Ah battery as an example.

Given that, in our example above, our appliances are consuming 26.4 Ah over 24 hours – giving us less than a day of power from a 44 Ah battery, and a little under 2 days out from a 100 Ah battery. So, we need some way to charge the battery after these timeframes.

A lithium battery, however, will give you more usable power and a longer lifespan at approximately half the weight, albeit at a higher price tag. There are different lithium battery chemistries with LiFePo4 being the most common for 12V deep cycle applications. These batteries offer 75-80% of their rated capacity for use meaning a 100 Ah lithium battery would give us 3 days of power in our example above.

Note that these figures are never exact. There are inefficiencies that need to be allowed for, so use these calculations as approximations.

Solar panels will keep your battery charged. Image: Hard Korr

How Can I Keep my Battery Charged Up?

If your battery is hard-wired to your vehicle’s charging system, driving your vehicle every day will keep your battery topped up. Plus, if you’ve also got solar panels hooked into your vehicle setup, you’re as good as ‘set and forget’.

If you’re using a portable power pack, you’ll need to plug it into your vehicle’s charging system whilst driving – or, if you are staying at camp for the day, you can use a solar panel.

Solar panels are generally rated in Watts; the higher the wattage, the quicker they charge your battery. They are not perfectly efficient at converting the sun’s rays into power, so we need to factor in a rough figure of a 20% inefficiency rate.

Each battery type has a different charge profile and you need to match your solar controller or DC charger to the battery type. You can’t, for example, use your cars alternator to directly charge a lithium battery, you will need to use a lithium compatible DC-DC charger in your system, which will add cost but will also improve the charge of your battery. Thankfully, many solar and DC chargers are now being produced to charge all battery types but it is worth double checking.

You’ll need to do a little maths to figure out what’s needed to keep your battery charged.

Let’s Do the Maths

Referring to the diagram above, let’s assume you have a 120W solar panel. If we go back to our formula again and divide watts by volts, this gives us 10 Amps (120W ÷ 12V = 10A). If we factor in our inefficiency rate of 20%, we are down to 8 Amps that your solar panel is delivering to the battery (10Amps – 20% = 8Amps).

But remember, our fridge is still consuming 1.35Amps from the battery at the same time. The rate at which the battery is actually being charged in this scenario is the difference between input amps and output amps, which in this case is about 6.65Amps (8A – 1.35A = 6.65 Amps).

A solar panel is only going to deliver charge during the sunlit hours, and not in the shade – so let’s assume that we chase the sun all day by moving the solar panel around, and acquire 8 hours of sunlight.

So, at 6.65 Amps for 8 hours, a 120W solar panel can potentially deliver 53.2Ah of chargeback into our battery (6.65Amps x 8hours = 53.2Ah). This is far more than the 22 Ah we need to charge a depleted battery.

If we work backwards, we can work out roughly how many actual hours of sunlight we need to charge a 50% depleted battery whilst our fridge is still running, by dividing the charge needed by the consumption.

22 Ah ÷ 6.65A = 3.3 hours approximately, to reach full charge whilst your fridge is running.

Make Allowances for Overcast Days

The angle of the sun and the atmosphere impact the amount of sunlight reaching a solar panel, and reduce the output. In reality, if your solar panel is in full sun for 8 hours, you are likely only acquiring 4-6 hours of it’s potential capacity per day. Furthermore, the output of the solar panel may be reduced to almost nothing on cloudy days, so it’s worth ensuring you have a few Amp-hours in reserve.

Long story short, in the above situation, if the weather is clear and sunny and you are chasing the sun with your solar panel each day, you’d theoretically be set to stay in the one spot for as long as you want. If you are relying on your vehicle, charge times will be much less, given a vehicle’s alternator generally delivers a much higher current. You can usually find details on your alternators Amp output in your vehicle manual.

Once your 12V system is set up, it will serve you well. Image: Hard Korr

One Last Thing to Note…

Solar and your vehicle’s alternator don’t always deliver a full charge in the same way a good 240V battery charger can. So, it’s worth hooking them up to one of these and giving them a full charge once every 6-12 months.

That may seem like a whole lot of information, but in reality it’s just the basics. There’s a lot more to learn when it comes to setting up a 12V system in your vehicle.

For now though, at least you can ensure your drinks stay cold!

The post Understanding 12V Battery & Solar Setups for Camping and 4WDing appeared first on Snowys Blog.

How do you prepare? What do you need to consider to not only keep yourself safe but have an enjoyable time?

From what to pack to how to pack, this blog unpacks the best ways to prepare for an overnight hike.

With a little preparation, your first overnight hike will be a great experience. Image: MSR

Keep it Simple

Your first overnight hiking experience should be exactly as described: an ‘overnight’ hike. This means heading off for just one night away – maybe two, if you feel up for the challenge. Keeping your first experience short and simple will allow the opportunity to become familiar with the trail lifestyle without committing to an extended expedition. There is a lot to learn and get used to when hiking overnight, which will shock your body!

Walking while carrying a load is much more physically demanding. For an overnight hike, not only do you need to get used to the extended physical exertion but doing so while carrying your pack! Then, there’s adjusting to a lightweight mat and your other gear: tent, sleeping bag, head torch, hiking stove, poles… not to mention becoming accustomed to hiking foods. Your supplies need to be lightweight and preferably packed with nutrition and ingredients that provide slow-release energy. Quality dehydrated meals, or even dehydrating your own, are a much better choice than 2-minute noodles.

Take it easy and don’t try to tackle too many km’s on your first overnight hike. Image: Salomon 

Don’t Walk Too Far!

Trailblazing with a loaded pack is very different to a day hike. Even those who consider themselves to be quite fit may find walking with a larger pack more difficult than previous experiences. Carrying a load forces your muscles to be used in different ways to accommodate the extra weight.

It’s essential to give consideration to your footwear and socks, and worth taking a moment during your preparation to ensure you have suitable shoes that correctly fit your foot. Your feet are your most important asset when hiking, so being ill-equipped may ruin the trip.

Most walks for beginners are between 5 – 10km’s per day, beginning at morning teatime and ending at lunchtime the next day. Use this timeframe and distance as a guide for your own planning and preparation.

Don’t try to tackle too many kilometres on your first experience. You should be able to walk at a relaxed pace, take plenty of breaks, and enjoy yourself. Stop to appreciate the native wildlife and birds, but aim to stroll into camp with at least an hour of daylight left.

Pick a hike that’s close to home and stay trail smart. Image: Chris Newman

The Gear You’ll Need

It’s very important to get the basics right for your first experience. Further, it’s equally important to realise that you will learn something new every time you head away. This is all part of the challenge and enjoyment of living out of a rucksack!

A Quality Backpack

The Deuter packs makes carrying heavy loads far more comfortable than the other ‘budget’ backpacks on the market.

You may have heard the saying, ‘equipment can be high-quality, light, or cheap – pick two’. This certainly rings true for most outdoor equipment and becomes even more significant when it comes to hiking gear. You often need to choose between hiking light and expensive, or saving money and doing a little more training to carry a 25kg pack of bulky essentials! Taking the hood off the pack saves a little bit of weight – and if you don’t need it, why not? Everything that went in the hood can go into the side pockets, but keep in mind that not all packs have these.

If you have a decent, well-fitted backpack, it matters less if the rest of your ‘budget’ gear is bulky or heavy. It can still be carried in relative comfort, which makes all the difference.

A Quality Tent

Pack a tent large enough for your gear and bedding. Try to keep it under 2.5kg, or share the load with a friend. The Companion Pro Hiker 2 is a fantastic entry level tent, more than adequate for Australian conditions.

Check out the range of hiking tents available at Snowys here >>.

A Groundsheet

Just a simple tarp will do the trick to protect your tent, keep it clean, and waterproof the floor, it also doubles as a lunch mat during the day.

Pack a tent large enough for your gear and bedding. Image: Chris Newman

Lightweight and Compact Sleeping Bag

There are two choices for hiking bags: synthetic or down. Synthetic tends to be cheaper and easier to care for, but a bit bulky. Down can be half the weight and half the size but twice as expensive. If you can get a sleeping bag around the 1kg to 1.5kg mark, you will be on the money – but try not take a giant bag that takes up half your rucksack!

Need help choosing a sleeping bag, read our guide here >>.

A Well-Insulated Sleeping Mat

There are a wide range of sleeping mats on the market from closed cell foam mats to down-filled, high-quality snow mats. You can choose how much you want to spend but the main thing to look for is something that will insulate you from the ground. The comfort level will depend on how much you want to spend and how much weight you want to carry.

Keep an eye out for the highest-rated R-value (a measurement denoting insulative performance) for mats in your price range. For more details on choosing a sleeping mat for hiking, read this guide here.

For more information on R-value read our guide >>. For help choosing the right sleeping mat for your adventure we’ve got more information here >>.

It’s hardcore to sleep on a pile of clothes, but you may soon realise how much better off you are with a little more support! Image: Sea to Summit

Pillow or No Pillow?

It’s hardcore to sleep on a pile of clothes, but you may soon realise how much better off you are with a little more support! The Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow is hard to overlook for a balance of comfort and weight, even for an ultralight gram-counter!

Simple, Cheap, and Lightweight Cooking Gear

You’ll need a stove to cook your dinner. The Trangia 27-1 is a fantastic lightweight yet compact outdoor stove that is perfect for cooking for one to two people. There are plenty of budget options available these days, including gas, spirit, and solid fuel burning stoves. Another option for simple overnight hikes is to boil water before leaving and carry it in a vacuum insulated flask. This is roughly the same weight as a stove, but saves you the hassle of boiling water once you reach camp.

A fork and spoon are needed, and a cup is a good idea, but have a think about whether you need a plate and bowl – you can often eat out of the pot you cooked in, to save space and weight. The Sea to Summit long-handled spork is handy, as everything you need is right there as one utensil.

Don’t forget about clean up too! A scouring pad and a little dishwashing liquid is all you need, or even keeping a cut up piece of sponge in the pot. Let your dishes air dry to negate the need to bring a tea towel.

See our range of lightweight cooking and eating gear here >>

The Trangia is a fantastic lightweight yet compact outdoor stove. Image: Chris Newman

Nutritional Foods

When planning your meals, you will need lightweight food with good nutritional value. Two-minute noodles are lightweight… but if we’re talking nutritional value, you may as well eat the packaging! That said, it’s recommended to carry some emergency noodles. There may not be the intention of eating them, but they’re good to have for peace of mind.

There is a great range of tasty freeze dried meals on the market such as Radix Nutrition, which definitely fit the description of easy, lightweight, and nutritional. Don’t forgo all delicacies – follow an instant pasta course with a luxury instant dessert, like an apricot crumble from Back Country Cuisine. An easy, no-mess breakfast can be had by preparing ham and cheese croissants and wrapping them in foil.

Muesli, nut, and chocolate bars are good snacks to take. Have a good look at what packaging you need, and what can be left behind. For example, you don’t need to take the box the muesli bars came in.

Snack Options:

• Dried fruit
• Nuts
• Protein bars
• Lollies
• Beef jerky
• Dark chocolate
• Clif bars

For more reading checkout Snacks for the Track, or Quick and Easy Meals for Camping and Hiking for some easy meals. See our full range of freeze dried meals and hiking snacks here >>

There is a great range of tasty freeze dried meals on the market, like Radix Nutrition. Image: Radix Nutrition

You’ll use a lot of energy when hiking, so snacks are very important. Take a ‘continuously grazing’ approach, rather than sticking to just three big meals per day.

Water

Plan your trip in advance to work out where water is available and how much is there. Water will be the heaviest item in your pack, but also the most valuable – so it’s very important to take enough for what you need (meals and cleanup included), but not too much more.

Two to three litres per person, per day (depending on the weather), is a good rule. This may sound like a lot for a two to three-day hike, but you will be working a lot harder hiking than normal.

For your first time, try to plan hikes that lead to water at each campsite. That way, you can minimise your weight and get to know how much water you require when hiking. Make yourself aware of what’s required to make your drinking water safe and avoid any nasty stomach bugs, read this article for more information >>. 

Check out our range of water filtration and treatment gear here >>.

Prioritise warmth and nutrition on overnight hikes. Image: MSR

Clothing – Kept To a Minimum

Try to choose items that are breathable and quick-drying. Avoid cotton as it becomes wet and cold quickly – and, as always, the lighter the better! As a general rule, you should take one set of clothes for walking in and one warm and dry set to change into at night. Hiking in pants or shorts depends on personal preference – but it might be worth having a pair of showerproof pants to keep wind and rain out in blustery conditions. The longer you head away, the more clothes you may want to take. Just keep in mind that but you’ll need to bear the weight.

A set of thermals is a must too! Pack a warm jacket as well as a raincoat, hat, beanie, and a good set of boots and socks. Instead of a standard bath towel, a couple of cotton tea-towels are light and handy. Use one as a towel after swimming, and the other as a scarf, sunshade, or for drying tents.

A Good Raincoat

Rain, wind, and cold makes for a shivering, average trip at best, or hypothermia at worst! Weather conditions can change very quickly, especially on high-altitude land and in the mountains, such as the Victorian Alps. A good raincoat will cause rain to bead and run-off the outer shell while allowing sweat and perspiration to exit. This prevents getting soaked from the inside while traversing all that hilly terrain!

As a general rule, take one set of clothes for walking in and one warm and dry set to change into at night. Image: Radix Nutrition

Staying dry when hiking overnight is particularly important, as it can be difficult in rainy conditions to properly dry off before hopping into a tent and sleeping bag. A raincoat also provides an outer barrier in windy conditions, allowing insulative layers underneath the chance to trap air and create warmth around your body. 

See our range of affordable hiking clothing basics and accessories here >>.

Comfortable Footwear

Everyone has a horror story about enormous blisters or squashed feet that time they went hiking in twenty-year-old boots handed down by their grandmother. Considering that your feet are with you every step of the way, it’s important to have boots that will keep you comfortable and dry.

Your boots should be what you spend a decent amount of money on – and be sure you wear them in well before your trip, to identify any pressure spots that might require extra padding using hikers’ wool or blister protection.

Ankle support, grippy tread patterns, or waterproofing might be needed depending on the conditions and climate expected. You don’t necessarily need high-cut boots meant for rocky mountain expeditions – just ensure your shoes have been fitted properly, remembering that feet expand slightly when a load is carried.

First Aid

Ensure your first aid kit has everything you need, while keeping the weight down. Think about what you are likely to encounter in the area you are going to. Some of the more common injuries to prepare for are snake or spider bites, rolled ankles, cuts, broken bones, and dehydration.

Your feet are with you every step of the way, so look after them. Image: Black Wolf

The Little Things You Shouldn’t Forget

• Toiletries, such as a toothbrush and toothpaste (only enough for a couple nights)
• Toilet paper and a trowel (again, only take what you need)
• Head torch with fresh batteries
• Pocket knife (also used for cooking, hence you only need a fork and spoon)
• Matches / lighter / flint (for lighting your stove and a fire)
• Phone / wallet / keys

The Handy Things You May Not Have Thought About

• Thermal sleeping bag liner, for extra insulation.
• Scrub gloves (thin gardening gloves), for when you need to hold onto weeds or branches on steep terrain.
• Fingerless gloves, for the cold nights at camp.
• Day pack, for heading into town for a resupply or doing a short hike with your camp still set up.

Remember a head torch, with fresh batteries! Image: Black Diamond

If it doesn’t keep you alive, it’s a luxury

Once you have your kit together, pack it all in your rucksack and weigh it. You should not be carrying more than one-third of your body weight. If you’re not happy with the weight of your pack, then pull everything back out again and take a good look at what you are taking.

Example Packing List

Everything considered, your packing list may look like this:

• 3L water bladder
• 2P Tent
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping mat
• Cooking water
• Long-handled spork
• Water bottle or pouch
• Rain cover (for your pack)
• Trowel
• Toilet paper
• Fleece
• Rain Jacket
• Hiking/trekking poles
• Campsite shoes
• Map and compass
• Groundsheet
• First aid kit
• PLB
• Notepad and pen
• Head torch
• Waterproof matches
• Mini roll of duct tape
• Garbage snap-lock bag
• Spare batteries
• Pocket knife
• Earbuds
• Lip balm
• 2 in 1 sunscreen and insect repellent
• Anti-chaffing balm
• Toiletries

An example pack. Image: Kelly-Anne Burgess

When you come back from your first trip, have a good look at what you used and what you didn’t. You’ll know you’ve got it right when you come back with an emergency meal, half a litre of water, and every item in your pack used!

Start Locally

Keep your first hike close to home, and don’t attempt to stray from the track. It’s wise to stay close to your town or city with easily navigated and clearly marked trails. Save the remote trips for when you have gained knowledge and confidence – otherwise, you can find yourself in a dangerous situation.

Choose a trail that is interesting, picturesque, and allows you to build experience while still ensuring your safety. Look for one with a designated campsite and easy road access. This gives you the option to call for assistance if you need it, especially as you get used to this ‘overnight hiking’ thing.

Walk With a Friend

Your first overnight hike should not be alone. Go with a friend, preferably with experience, who can offer advice and encouragement if needed.

Hiking alone can be a fantastic experience in self-reliance and independence, but it’s much safer for beginners to adventure with a friend or a group. If you decide to travel alone, it’s recommended that you arrange to meet your friends or family at the campsite, or at least ensure you’re walking in an area with full phone reception and sufficient vehicle access.

Take the precautions of notifying any rangers in the area and leaving your itinerary with close family or friends.

Your first overnight hike should not be alone. Image: BlackWolf

Stay Hydrated

Your hydration needs will vary depending on your body, the weather, and the environment. Don’t underestimate how much water you will need, and consider your electrolytes too. Consuming too much water can dilute the sodium levels in your body and lead to Hyponatremia. Learning how to manage your hydration needs and balance your fluid intake with powder or gel supplements is knowledge gained through experience.

A good rule to follow is 3 litres per person, per day. Remember to allow extra water for cooking and cleaning your cookware too. Of course, this can add to your pack weight quickly – so try to pick an area where you can fill up with water along the way, or at least at your campsite.

If neither of those options are available, you may need to organise a ‘water drop’ to minimise the volume you need to carry. This is where a friend or family member meets you at a pre-determined point to deliver a water refill.

We’ve got a range of hydration and energy supplements available here >>.

Choose Your Season Carefully

The weather can be quite unpredictable, but try your best to plan your adventure for when the weather forecast is fair. Check the Bureau Of Meteorology (BOM) website as part of your preparation and consider downloading their app to stay updated.

Temperatures hovering in the low to mid-20s with fine conditions are ideal. Planning your first walk when it’s freezing cold and wet, or in the scorching heat, is unlikely to support the amazing experience you were hoping for. It’s also suggested to be wary of the warmer weather during late spring; at this time, snakes are emerging from their winter hibernation and can be more aggressive.

Remember to wear sunscreen and a hat when walking, even if it’s a cool and overcast day. Keep the fluids up with regular, small sips, rather than guzzling a whole bottle in one go!

Checkout the BOM website and download the app here >>

Don’t underestimate how much water you’ll need, and consider electrolytes too. Image: Salomon

Think of Safety!

Assuming you’ve chosen a local trail with well-defined tracks and a clearly marked route, you will still need to take a map and compass to ensure you are heading in the right direction. For this reason, some basic map reading skills will be necessary. Alternatively, this is another benefit of walking with an experienced friend or group.

A compass doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive, check out our range here >>.

There are helpful mapping apps like Strava or Avenza that are GPS-enabled and allow you to both plot your route ahead of time and navigate as you go. Strava includes access to an online community and performance tracking features, but the extent of your usage can be tailored in your privacy settings.

Ensure you have a way to communicate, be that to check in with mates and loved ones or to keep an emergency device for peace of mind. For your first trip, try to pick an area that has good phone reception. If this is not possible, you may need to consider an alternative.

Devices like Satellite Phones, UHF handheld radios, PLBs, and Satellite Messengers provide extended coverage when mobile phone service is inadequate. PLBs are fantastic in emergency situations when you need to be rescued. Satellite Messengers allow the flexibility of being able to send an SOS alert, but also a text message to someone to notify them that you’re okay.

If you intend to hike regularly, it may be worth purchasing your own. Some are also available for hire from most good communications stores, or even some ranger stations.

Check out our range of basic survival essentials here, and read our guide to PLB’s and Satellite Communication here >>.

Hiking provides us with the opportunity to reconnect with nature, and each other. Image: BlackWolf

Record Your Experience

One of the main reasons for hiking in the first place is the thrill of venturing out into the wild. It provides us with an opportunity to reconnect with nature and appreciate some amazing scenery, as well as improve our fitness and mental health. So, take a camera or just your phone, and capture those beautiful moments to share with your friends and family when you get home.

A photo may speak a thousand words – but don’t let that discount the value of journaling too. Remember to take a notepad and pen or, if you have an artistic flair, a small sketchbook and a few pencils!

As well as recording your inspiration and thoughts, you can also make notes on what you wish to improve upon in future trips. Details about your walk, location, or gear are all useful – or you might cross paths with another hiker who has tips to share too.

Practice Minimal Impact Hiking

Quite simply, this embraces the concept of ‘take only pictures and leave only footprints’. This means leaving no trace of being there, and taking out everything that you took in. Leave no rubbish or food scraps behind.

No, the animals will not enjoy your scraps, nor will the scraps simply rot away. In fact, some native animals can develop diseases from eating food that is not typical of their intended diet. This also extends to toileting. Some areas even require you to carry out your ‘droppings’… so when planning your first overnight hike, it can be a good idea to stick to an area that has toilets at the campground.

If nature calls along the trail, ensure you go at least 100m from any stream or waterway. Everything should be buried completely. Ben and Lauren discuss taking care of business off the grid in Episode 51 of the Snowys Camping Show.

You may be interested to learn more about Leaving No Trace here, or more on Camp Toilets here >>.

Sleeping out overnight can add something special to your hiking experience. Image: MSR

Time to Explore!

Lightweight overnight hiking is a fantastic experience, taking you to some of the most untouched and picturesque places in the world. If you are new to it, remember to take it slowly and gently. Ease your way into it so your body and mind have time to adjust to the physical and mental challenges.

These tips will help promise a safe and enjoyable experience. There is a lot to learn, but once you get started you can aim to explore more challenging and remote areas.

Overnight hiking takes you to some of the most untouched and picturesque places in the world. Image: Chris Newman

The post How to Prepare for an Overnight Hike appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Maybe you’re concerned your sleeping bag isn’t warm enough, but your not in a position to buy another one?

If this sounds like you, this blog lists 5 toasty tips for a warmer sleep – but first, let’s bivvy down and learn a little more about the humble sleeping bag…

Brrrr, winter camping can get positively arctic if your sleeping bag isn’t warm enough! Credit: Sea to Summit 

The Sleeping Bag

Sleeping bags are one of the only products on the market that have a temperature rating. Think about it, it’s not common to buy a jacket or even a quilt for your bed at home with an actual temperature rating.

As a general rule, if we feel cold we put an extra jumper on or another blanket on the bed. Despite this, we expect that a sleeping bag with a ‘temperature rating’ of 0 degrees will keep us toasty warm in the snow, no matter what type of person we are.

The reality is that this temperature rating is only a guide. We all feel the cold differently, so we simply cannot expect a sleeping bag to reflect such science – or that one temperature rating fits all.

So, what does temperature rating mean? How can we use this roughly equated number to help us choose an appropriate bag for the job?

We all feel the cold differently. Credit: Sea to Summit

Sleeping Bag Temperatures

Before delving in – ask yourself:

• Do you usually go camping during cold weather, when it’s warm, or both?
• If the weather is forecast to be cold – how cold? Is there a chance of frost or snow?
• Are you sleeping outside, or in a tent? How large is the tent? Is it just for sleepovers?

With those considerations in mind, let’s talk sleeping bag ratings:

You will feel cooler as the external temperature approaches the sleeping bag’s rated temperature. Credit: Sea to Summit

EN/ISO Temperature Rating

Sleeping bags must be independently tested by the manufacturer to obtain this rating. The rating is often based on an R-value, which is a measurement of insulation – just like the insulation in the walls of your house.

Some manufacturers will do real world testing on one sample of their insulation, and apply a formula to the different sleeping bags. On the other hand, sleeping bags tested to an EN (European) Standard (or an ISO or international standard as of 2016), are the most accurately tested bags.

That said, keep in mind that this testing is done in a controlled and static environment where a dummy is placed inside the sleeping bag with temperature sensors. So, unless you’re a motionless dummy sleeping in an environment void of variables, you’ll need to allow for your own physiological makeup and the equipment you are using.

What is the EN or ISO Standard?

There are no testing guidelines here in Australia, so look out for bags that have been tested according to EN Standards. The EN Standard for sleeping bags is marked EN13537, which was superseded by the ISO 23537-1 international standard in 2016.

The standard measures three temperature ratings:

Not all manufacturers will list all three ratings – ensure you’re considering the correct one. Ultimately, no amount of laboratory testing is going to be 100% accurate to your body. Less expensive sleeping bags will advertise a more generous rating that may not be accurate. Bags that list the EN/ISO Standards will be more accurate and provide a good point for comparison between bags. As that process is expensive though, it will affect the price tag.

You can always shed a layer or unzip your bag if you’re hot – but if you wake up freezing cold in the middle of the night, there won’t be much you can do to get warm!

Want to delve into the nitty gritty of sleep system ratings, have a listen to our interview with Sea To Summit on the Snowys Camping Show here >>

Look out for bags that have been tested according to EN Standards. Credit: Sea to Summit

Choosing Your Sleeping Bag

The temperature rating is the point at which you will likely wake up to. You will feel cooler as the external temperature approaches this rated temperature, so it’s important to allow yourself a temperature buffer. The below factors are worth considering to help select the right bag for you.

1. First, determine the lowest temperature you will be using the sleeping bag in most of the time.
2. From here, we recommend adding a buffer to ensure you sleep warm. This is dependent on how you sleep:
   • Warm sleepers: refer to the EN/ISO tested ‘Comfort’ rating as a starting point, and choose a bag with a rating at 5 degrees below the lowest temperatures you plan to use your sleeping bag in.
   • Cold sleepers: refer to the EN/ISO tested ‘Lower Limit’ rating as a starting point, and choose a bag with a rating at 5-10 degrees below the lowest temperatures you plan to use your sleeping bag in.
3. Keep in mind that you can expand the comfort range of a sleeping bag by adding liners for extra warmth, or use the sleeping bag unzipped as a doona to cater for temperature extremes you may occasionally encounter.
4. Finally: this is not an exact science. We are all different, with varying metabolisms. You’ll need to use some of your own judgement in your selection.

Need more help choosing the right bag, read our How to Find the Perfect Sleeping Bag guide here >>

Our 5 Tips For A Warmer Sleep

1. Wash Your Sleeping Bag

If your sleeping bag is on the ‘well-used’ side and doesn’t seem to be as warm as it once was, you may need to simply give it a good wash. Over time, the oils from your skin together with moisture caught in the filling can cause the stuffing to clump together. This prevents it from ‘fluffing up’, which keeps you insulated and warm.

The filling in the sleeping bag needs to ‘puff up’ and expand with air, which then traps the body heat of the person sleeping inside. Washing your old sleeping bag will clean the filling and enable it to do this more effectively, thus trapping more warm air and increasing the insulation between the person inside and the cold air outside.

Wash your sleeping bag to restore its warmth. 

How to Wash Your Sleeping Bag

The washing process differs between down and synthetic bags, he below process is best for synthetic bags, for down bags see our guide on How To Wash Down Sleeping Bags here >>

1. Put your sleeping bag in a pillowcase to protect the thin outer material from tearing.
2. Using a front loader, wash your sleeping bag on a warm, gentle cycle (if you have a down sleeping bag, use Down Wash).
3. Dry your sleeping bag in a large tumble dryer on the lowest setting. Place a few tennis balls inside the dryer too; these will smash into the sleeping bag, breaking up the filling and fluffing it up again.
4. If you don’t have access to a dryer, simply dry the sleeping bag on the clothesline in the sun. Every half an hour or so, beat it with a tennis racket to break up the filling.

2. Use a Thermal Liner and Hot Water Bottle

Thermal Liners

If your sleeping bag isn’t rated low enough for the conditions you’re using it in, or if you’ve discovered you’re a cooler sleeper – rather than purchasing another sleeping bag, consider adding a silk, cotton, or fleece liner.

A thermal liner is made of the same material as thermal underwear, specifically designed and rated to boost the warmth of your sleeping bag. While there are many on the market, the cotton and silk liners by Sea to Summit are a personal favourite.
By adding a liner to your bag, you not only have a sufficient winter sleep system but can still use the sleeping bag on its own in average conditions. The liner can then be used on its own in warmer weather! A removable liner also keeps your sleeping bag cleaner, and thus your filling in better condition.

On the contrary, avoid adding extra blankets on top of your bedding. The weight will crush the filling, rendering it ineffective for trapping the air. Use them beneath you, or under your mat instead.

Hot Water Bottles

If you’re heading away for a particularly cold weekend, it may be worth packing a good ol’ fashioned hot water bottle too. You can also use a regular water bottle – just ensure it has a quality seal so it won’t leak, and the water inside isn’t too hot. If oyu are using squeeze style water bottles make sure it has a lockout feature to avoid it leaking all over your gear. Checkout the range of water bottles at Snowys here.

Heat the billy before bed and pour the hot (not boiling) water into your bottle. Tuck it into your sleeping bag with you – and enjoy some seriously snug comfort! Better yet, if you prepare it ahead of time, you’re pre-heating your bed so it’s warm by the time you officially hit the sack!

3. Wear Thermal Clothing

Thermal underwear are the warmest pyjamas you will ever need when camping in cold conditions! Known as a ‘base layer’, they will trap warmth directly against your skin and make a huge difference to your comfort in cold conditions. Layering clothes on top of your thermal base will trap air between the fabric, keeping you warmer than simply adding a single thick layer of clothing.

Ensure you add your layers and warm up by the campfire well before lights out too, so the heat has time to build. This will also have it easier to maintain, as it will be trapped with you when you slide into your sleeping bag.

4. Don a Beanie, Gloves, and Socks

Humans lose about 30% of their body heat through their heads! By wearing a beanie to bed or tightening the hood of your sleeping bag, you’re trapping more warmth. Simply keep your mouth and nose free so you’re not breathing into your bag – this creates moisture throughout the night.

When your body becomes cold, it takes blood from the extremities such as your feet and hands to instead keep it surrounding your vital organs. By heading to bed with warm socks and gloves, you’re keeping your feet and hands warm, which maintains the blood flowing to them. This makes for a better night’s sleep!

Socks, gloves, and beanies are an easy way to stay warmer in your sleeping bag

5. Eat a Big Dinner!

Your body uses a lot of energy to digest big meals. In the case of a large dinner, all this energy will produce heat and keep you warm come bedtime. By eating a decent sized dinner packed with low GI carbohydrates, your body will continue to burn fuel all through the night!

Two-minute noodles give you enough energy for… well, two minutes. On the other hand, a big bowl of spaghetti Bolognese will ensure a good night’s sleep! Just don’t eat too much…and go easy on the garlic, or you’ll be awake with indigestion! Contrary to popular belief too, if nature calls during the night you are better off surrendering to it; holding on will override your kidney’s signal to your brain. Through a chain of technical temperature regulation measures, our bodies feel colder when our bladder is in need of relief!

Keep Warm on Your Next Adventure!

No matter the age or quality of your sleeping bag, these tips will help you achieve the best from it.

It’s worth noting too that your sleeping bag is part of a whole sleep-system. This means that your choice of sleeping mat will also influence how cold or warm you will be throughout the night.

An airbed is not one to keep you warm, as the air within the mattress will remain cold. Instead, choose a closed-cell foam or filled mat, which traps air and helps insulate. Sleeping inside a smaller tent that is double-walled (ie. using a fly) and having decent ventilation to reduce moisture build-up are also tips worth bearing in mind.

Here’s hoping you can get a good night’s sleep, even on those freezing cold winter nights! With the above tips, you’re less likely to resort to the dangerous (and not recommended) tactic of using a heater inside your tent… or to the ancient Native American method of creating a hot rock bed!

Looking for a new sleeping bag? See our top sleeping bag picks for 2026 — or browse the full sleeping bag range at Snowys.

The post Toasty Tips for a Warmer Sleep appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Whether your sleeping bag has a down or synthetic fill, the action is the same… stuff it!

Let’s guide you through a step-by-step process for packing your sleeping bag. We’ve intentionally chosen two very different types of bag to help you understand that this method is suitable regardless of whether yours is a camping sleeping bag or something a little more technical for expeditions and multi-day hiking.

Entry-level or top of the range, synthetic fill or down, and irrespective of its temperature comfort rating, we still recommend the stuffing method! The only exception is canvas sleeping bags that generally come with a zippered bag, or roll up with straps similar to a swag.

For all other sleeping bags, the important thing to remember is to avoid folding or rolling which can create ‘sheets’ of fill that inhibit future lofting and over time, can break it down. Stuffing creates an irregular folding pattern that is unique each time you pack your sleeping bag away. This reduces the risk of tension within your bag and means it’ll loft up better when you use it next time.

You’ll be full of smiles using the ‘stuff’ method. Image: OZtrail

The stuffing method requires a certain degree of assertion. You want to be forceful without putting pressure on any seams or stitching. It’s also a good idea to remove any rings or sharp bits – there’s no fun to be had if a rogue fingernail snags your outer fabric, or if that nobbly bit on your watch catches on the seam.

Although both synthetic bags and down bags enlist the same action, the process for each ever so slightly differs. Let’s start with…

Synthetic sleeping bags

For this example, we’ve chosen the Essential 5°C Sleeping Bag from Black Wolf. A brand-new bag will be very tightly rolled so you want to teach that inner fill how to breathe in deeply and hold that air!

Grab the inside foot of your sleeping bag.

Step 1

1. Have your compression sack nearby, open and ready to grab.
2. With one arm, reach inside your bag and with your other arm, meet the inside hand at the foot of the sleeping bag on the outside.
3. Grab your sleeping bag and scrunch it together.

Maintain a firm hold on the sack.

Step 2

1. Keep a grip on the gathered foot end of your sleeping bag with the inside hand while you grab your compression sack.
2. Without being too rough, push the handful right down to the bottom of the bag.
3. As you stuff the foot into the base of the sack, you want to make sure you’re pushing right down to the bottom of the bag because if you short cut this at the start, you’ll be on the back foot and have to work harder to get the last of your bag into the sack once you get to the top.

Compact your sleeping bag to the bottom of your compression sack right from the start.

Step 3

1. Once the base of your sack has been filled, some people like to secure it between their feet, with the remainder of the sleeping bag bunched under their arm. Go with whatever works for you, so long as the base stays put while you continue to feed the bag into the sack, squishing as you go. Don’t be afraid to make it a whole-body movement!
2. Holding one hand on the opening of your sack, continue using your other hand to grab bunches of the bag and punch them as far down into the sack as you can.
3. It’s helpful for the hand that’s on the outer to gently pull upwards to assist the other hand downwards.

Support the sack with your knee or between your feet.

Step 4

1. Keep punching the rest of the bag down into the compression sack, pivoting the sack as you go to spread the bulk and create an even stuffing.
2. Similar to how you began, try to get each punch and your fist as far down to the bottom of the sack as you can.

Use your fists to hold the sleeping bag down.

Step 5

1. Work your way around, supporting and twisting as you go, until the last of the bag is inside the sack.
2. Use your fists to hold the sleeping bag down, then relieve one hand for Step 6.

The toggle will help keep the opening pulled in.

Step 6

1. While the fist of one hand pushes against the sleeping bag closest to the top of your compression sack, use your free hand to scoop up the drawstring and pull the cord to tighten the top and create the gathered closure.
2. Secure the toggle into place as tightly as you can to the closed end.

Make sure your compression straps are not twisted before you fit the cap into place.

Step 7

1. Most compression sacks have a cap that can be moved into place over the top.
2. Fit this into place, making sure the straps of your compression sack aren’t twisted and have been released from buckles, plus loosened off.
3. Depending on your activity and space requirements, you can pull the straps down to compress your sleeping bag even further or tighten the straps off just enough to secure the cap but not necessarily completely squish the bag.

If you want or need to reduce the size of your pack, then you can use your body weight by placing one of your knees on top of the sack and tightening off the compression straps. Avoid tightening too much though, as the strain may weaken the stitching of your sack and stress the buckles.

If space is limited, you can compress your packed sleeping bag using the compression straps.

Down sleeping bag

When stuffing a down bag, you must take a little bit more care because of the extra fabric and baffles inside.

Here we’re jumping way up to the other end of the scale and using one of the high-end bags from our range, the Spark SP4 Sleeping Bag from Sea to Summit. Regardless of which bag you have or how much it cost, you want to take care of it as best you can. But if you’re investing some serious dosh into a specialised expedition bag, then you want to do everything possible to maintain its quality and longevity.

Most high-end down sleeping bags will come with both a compression sack and a loose-fitting bag for storage.

Step 1

1. Have your compression sack nearby, open and ready to grab.
2. Use one arm to reach deep inside your bag, grab the foot and in a dual movement with your other hand on the opening of your sleeping bag, flip the whole thing inside out.

Down sleeping bags often have a waterproof coating on their outer fabric which inhibits their breathability when packing and during storage, so turning it inside out means your sleeping bag will be able to breathe.

Once the down sleeping bag is inside out, you can begin stuffing.

Step 2

From here, the process is very much the same as what you do for a synthetic bag. However, down bags do tend to stuff and squish more easily, you’ve just got to show that air who’s boss!

1. With your bag inside out, reach one arm inside your bag and work its way to the foot.
2. Meet the inside hand at the foot of the sleeping bag with your free hand on the outside.
3. Grab your sleeping bag and scrunch it together with your inside hand.

Fill the base of your compression sack as much as possible.

Step 3

1. Once the base of your sack has been filled, some people like to secure it between their feet, with the remainder of the sleeping bag bunched under their arm. Go with whatever works for you, so long as the base stays put while you continue to feed the bag into the sack, squishing as you go. Don’t be afraid to make it a whole-body movement!
2. Holding one hand on the opening of your sack, continue using your other hand to grab bunches of the bag and punch them as far down into the sack as you can.
3. It’s helpful for the hand that’s on the outer to gently pull upwards to assist the other hand downwards.

Double action stuffing! One hand opens and pulls the sack upward, while the other punches the bag down to the bottom.

Step 4

1. Holding one hand on the opening of your sack, continue using your other hand to grab bunches of the bag and punch them as far down into the sack as you can.
2. It’s helpful for the hand that’s on the outer to gently pull upwards to assist the other hand downwards.
3. Keep punching the rest of the bag down into the compression sack, pivoting the sack as you go to spread the bulk and create an even stuffing.
4. Like how you began, try to get each punch and your fist as far down to the bottom of the sack as you can.

Down sleeping bags are easier to pack than synthetic varieties.

Step 5

1. Work your way around, supporting and twisting as you go, until the last of the bag is inside the sack.
2. Use your fist to hold the sleeping bag down and relieve your other hand for Step 6.

Keep squishing the bag down into your sack while pulling the drawstring.

Step 6

1. While the fist of one hand pushes against the sleeping bag closest to the top of your compression sack, use your free hand to scoop up the drawstring and pull the cord to tighten the top and create the gathered closure.
2. Secure the toggle into place as tightly as you can to the closed end.

The cap protects the toggle and gathered opening of your compression sack.

Step 7

1. Most compression sacks have a cap that can be moved into place over the top.
2. Fit this into place, making sure the straps of your compression sack aren’t twisted and have been released from the buckles, and loosened off.

Avoid pulling your compression straps too tightly.

Step 8

1. Depending on your activity and space requirements, you can pull the straps down to compress your sleeping bag even further or tighten the straps off just enough to secure the cap but not necessarily completely squish the bag.

Storage bags allow your sleeping bag to breathe and keep the fill lofted. 

A note on storage

Most down bags come with 2 different sacks – one for when you’re hiking or camping and you need to keep your gear compact and minimal. The other is a loose-fitting, zippered storage bag to house your sleeping bag between trips.

Down bags are best stored inside out and uncompressed. Using a loose-fitting breathable bag allows the down to remain lofted and keeps things dry and fresh. Most quality down bags will come with a cotton or mesh storage sack that will accommodate the bag in a loosely packed fashion. If your bag does not have one of these then you can use a large pillowcase or similar, then store it in the top of a cupboard or somewhere it won’t get squashed.

If you have space, the most ideal way to store your bag is to hang it from the foot end using a clipped coathanger. This method keeps the insulation as lofted and aired out as possible. However, it’s not the most realistic option for most people, so a loose-fitting breathable bag is a good second choice. 

Packed and ready for action – the Spark SP4 down sleeping bag and the Essential 5°C synthetic sleeping bag.

The moral of this story is simple: stuff your bag. It’s easier for you and better for your bag, which means you’ll get the most out of it for years to come!

If you’re still a little bit unsure or you’re eager to check out how Ben uses his feet to hold the base of the sack in place while he stuffs, check out our YouTube video:

The post How to Pack a Sleeping Bag appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Featuring 23Zero and Inspired Overland – available at Snowys Outdoors

There’s a moment every touring camper knows. It’s been a long day of exploring and the late afternoon light is throwing long shadows as you pull into a campsite. Someone nearby clicks open some latches and a rooftop tent unfolds in seconds – elevated, comfy, ready for rest. Meanwhile, you’re still pegging down guy ropes.

Rooftop tents have changed the game for Aussie campers. They’re fast to set up, very comfortable, and they keep you off the ground. But with so many brands and variations the choice is daunting, and they all claim to be the best.

This guide covers everything a first-time buyer needs to know – from tent style to vehicle compatibility we’ll help you find the models that suits how you camp. We’re not here to tell you which brand is best as they all have their merits, but we will reiterate that the old saying ‘you get what you pay for’ is as relevant as it’s always been. At Snowys, we’ve curated our range predominantly with two brands, 23Zero and Inspired Overland, to ensure our range is easy to digest and covers all budgets and vehicle types… not just 4WD’s. More on why we’ve chosen these brands later in the article, but for now let’s get into what we’re here for.

Why Choose a Rooftop Tent?

Before spending a few thousand dollars, it’s worth understanding the benefits you’re paying for.

Fast setup speed. Most rooftop tents are easily pitched in under 5 minutes; many are even quicker. Compare that to pitching a ground tent in fading light after a long drive.

Superior sleep comfort. You’ll have a comfortable mattress generally 7cm+. No need to clear sticks and rocks before pitching your tent, and you’re off the ground if it’s wet.

A compact campsite.  You can camp wherever you can park your vehicle level, regardless of whether it’s gravel, rock or lumpy terrain. Even if the ground is uneven, you can use wheel chocks to level things out.

Leave bedding inside.  Many models have enough space to store bedding inside, making setup and pack down a breeze.

Types of Rooftop Tents: Hard Shell vs Soft Shell

This is the first decision every buyer faces. The choice may come down to how or where you want to mount your tent, or the type of vehicle you have.

Hard Shell Rooftop Tents Have all the Bells and Whistles

Hard shell RTTs have a rigid outer shell – usually aluminium, carbon or ABS – this protects the tent when packed and forms part of the weatherproof upper when setup. Most hard-shell rooftops are single hinge full-length, low-profile units that suit a longer roof. The primary benefit of a hardshell rooftop tent is setup speed and the ability to add roof rails to the shell to carry light items like solar panels, recovery tracks or surfboards.

Hardshell rooftop tents are generally more expensive than their soft-shell cousins, with higher prices seemingly directly proportional to more interior space.

Best for:  Weekend warriors, long-distance tourers, anyone who values fast setup and a low-profile look.

Soft Shell Rooftop Tents are a Simplistic and Affordable Choice

Most soft shell rooftop tents fold in half and open to offer generous interior space. These models pen over the side of the vehicle creating further sheltered space outside of the tent.

These rooftop tents have a smaller footprint making them suitable for short roofs or tub racks, but their fold-in-half configuration means they sit higher on your roof. These models are generally more affordable but usually don’t accommodate the storage of bedding inside.

Best for:  Base camp setups, families, campers seeking value for money.

Hybrid Rooftop Tent Styles Suit Users With Specific Requirements

In the quest to suit more budgets and vehicle types many rooftop tents inherit both soft-shell and hard-shell features. 23Zero’s Panther Horizon and Yowie AX for example have hard shells that will accommodate roof rails whilst a fold-out tent section makes for a compact footprint when packed. Inspired Overland’s Lightweight rooftops are affordable full-length low-profile soft-shell models ideal for users that don’t need roof rails. Side opening models like the Inspired Overland Trailpeak offer the interior space of a soft-shell offering with a full-length, low-profile packed configuration.

Best for:  Users with specific mounting restrictions on their vehicle.

  Note on choosing a style:  Being prepared with exactly what your vehicle can legally carry, along with details on exactly how and where you want to install it on your vehicle i.e. tub rack, roof, or trailer, and roof rack type, will quickly help to refine your choice.

What to Consider Before You Buy

1. Check your dynamic roof load rating before anything else – and remember it includes your rack, not just the tent.
   This is one of the most misunderstood aspects of buying an RTT. Your vehicle’s dynamic roof load rating is the maximum weight it can carry while moving, and that figure almost always includes the weight of your roof rack system on top of the tent itself. We’ve included more vehicle-specific details later in this guide.
2. How often you camp should drive your decision — frequent campers can justify comfort and features; occasional campers should think carefully about daily compromises.
   Weekend warriors and full-time tourers will get real value from space and features — comfort pays off when you’re living in the thing. But if you’re an occasional camper with a daily driver, that tent sits on your roof 365 days a year, adding weight and drag to every commute. A lightweight, easily removable or low-profile model could save you real money at the bowser.
3. Width of the sleeping area, and factor in your height — it may change the style of tent you need.
   RTTs are typically rated for two people, with some larger models accommodating three or more. The number in a tent’s name generally represents its width: a ‘1300’ is roughly a double bed, while a ‘1500’ aligns closer to a queen. If you’re tall, pay attention to tent style — full-length single-hinge rooftops taper to a wedge at the foot end, reducing usable length. If your height is close to the tent’s total length, consider an x-hinge model, a side-opening style with near-vertical walls, or a fold-in-half design.
4. Don’t overlook the mattress – it makes a bigger difference than most buyers expect, and it’s where cheaper tents cut corners.
   Higher quality brands offer firmer, dual-density or memory foam options, or include self-inflating mattresses. Almost all rooftop tents also include an anti-condensation layer under the mattress to help manage moisture build-up between your body heat and the cold floor.
5. Prioritise crossflow ventilation regardless of material — then choose between polycotton’s durability or polyester’s weight savings based on your use case.
   Polycotton canvas offers excellent strength and UV resistance, while high-quality polyester saves weight and packs down smaller. 23Zero’s LST coating goes further by blocking light for a darker interior. On the frame side, Inspired Overland uses carbon fibre elements and lightweight aluminium extrusions for a weight-focused build, while 23Zero uses heavier-duty TIG-welded aluminium and heavy-duty components for maximum durability where weight isn’t a constraint.
6. Most RTTs will fit standard crossbar setups, but check your specific model’s requirements — some need three bars, and overhang matters for lighter tents.
   Most RTTs use T-slot rails and pre-fitted hardware to suit standard roof rack crossbars, though fitments vary and extra bolts or fittings may be needed. Two crossbars spaced to distribute weight evenly is usually sufficient, but some models require three. For lightweight models, pay attention to how much weight is applied to any overhanging sections.
7. Decide whether you want to leave bedding inside — if yes, you’ll need a bulkier tent; if you’re happy to pack it away, go slim and save weight.
   Lightweight RTT models are designed to be stripped bare before driving to keep roof load down. If leaving bulky bedding inside is important to your setup, you’ll need a tent built to accommodate that. Happy to stash it in the car? Go slim and save on fuel and weight.
8. Think ahead about what you’ll add — the ability to attach awnings, solar, and extra cargo on top varies significantly.
   Consider what you might want later: awnings, extra lighting, and solar panels. Some models can facilitate the mounting of awnings, an roof bars for for solar panels and recovery gear, and some models feature integrated 12V power hubs with USB-A, USB-C, and cigarette lighter sockets built in.

Vehicle Roof Load Ratings

Before you purchase any RTT, the single most important number you need is your vehicle’s dynamic roof load rating. Roof rack manufacturers also specify maximum weights for their products; the number you’re limited by is the lesser of the two. This is the maximum combined weight your roof can safely carry while driving – and it includes the weight of your roof rack, not just the tent.

Dynamic load rating:  Maximum weight while driving. This is the figure that really matters.

Static load rating:  Maximum weight while stationary (e.g. sleeping in the tent). Typically, 5–10x the dynamic rating – rarely the limiting factor.

Off-road rating:  Most manufacturers and rack brands reduce the allowable load by 30–50% on unsealed roads due to corrugations and impacts. An exact figure here can be hard to come by.

GVM:  We aren’t going to get into GVM details in this article, but we will mention that you also need to ensure that your total vehicle weight remains in check. It’s important to note that while a GVM upgrade can legally increase load carrying capacity (payload) of your vehicle, it does not increase the roof load rating.

Ratings can vary significantly by vehicle variant and year, always consult vehicle’s owner manual or enquire with the manufacturer to confirm your specific vehicles limitations.

Sedans & Wagons: Limited Capacity, Choose Carefully

Sedans and wagons sit at the most restricted end of the rooftop tent spectrum. Dynamic roof load ratings for this category typically range sit around 75 kg with few offering more than this. With most lightweight roof rack setups adding 10–30 kg alone, the window for a viable rooftop tent is narrow, which is why you rarely see this combination on the road. That said, the arrival of sub-40 kg rooftop tents from Inspired Overland has opened the door for sedan and wagon owners — particularly for those happy to remove the tent between trips rather than leaving it on permanently.

SUVs: Well Suited to Lightweight Models

While many SUV’s have a 75 kg rating, there are more options offering larger capacities up to 100 kg which opens up a solid range of rooftop tent. For most buyers in this category, a lightweight tent paired with roof bars is the most practical starting point, preserving as much of the roof load allowance as possible.

Dual Cab Ute? A Tub Rack Opens Up Your Options.

Dual cab ute owners have two installation options: the cab roof, or a rack mounted to the tray via a canopy or tub rack. The cab roof typically sits between 75–100 kg depending on the model, but a quality canopy or tub rack changes the equation significantly – purpose-built aluminium canopies commonly carry dynamic ratings of up to 200 kg, opening the full rooftop tent range. If you’re going the canopy route, be cautious of products without a published dynamic rating; many ABS and fibreglass canopies sit in the 50–100 kg range as standard, and off-road use can reduce effective ratings further.

Two rules apply across the board: your safe load limit is always the weakest link in the chain – canopy rating, rack system rating, and vehicle GVM all need to stack up – and your rooftop tent should never be installed in a way that bridges the cab roof and the canopy, as chassis flex between the two will cause damage over time. Always consult a qualified installer to confirm your setup is suitable before purchase.

4WDs: Compatible With the Full Range of Rooftop Tents

Purpose-built 4WDs are the natural home of the rooftop tent, and the roof load ratings reflect it – many popular models like the Nissan Patrol and Toyota LandCruiser sit between 100–150 kg, with the LandCruiser 200 Series reportedly standing out at an exceptional 200 kg. Don’t just assume that size and rugged looks mean there is plenty of load capacity on the vehicle, some models still only offer 75Kg capacity.

Calculating Your Available Load

Once you know your vehicle’s dynamic roof load rating, you can do some simple maths to work out what capacity you have left for your rooftop tent any anything else you want to add on top of your vehicle. Aluminium crossbar systems genrally weight 10–20kg whilst full platforms much more at 20–35kg. Steel racks: can exceed 45kg – a serious constraint on any vehicle.

Roof rating – Roof rack weight = Available load

Example: A vehicle with a roof load rating of 85kg with 2 bar roof rack weighing 10kg leaves 75kg for a rooftop tent and any extras.

Example: A vehicle with a roof load rating of 100Kg and a full-length platform rack weighing 30Kg has 60Kg remaining for a rooftop tent and any extras.

Want lighter, lower-profile, better on fuel? Episode 181 of the Snowys Camping Show covers the minimalist RTT movement. →

Your vehicle’s handling will change regardless of how much you put on your roof rack, always drive with consideration of the extra weight, wind resistance, and changes to centre of gravity.

Narrowing Your Rooftop Tent Choice

Once you know your available load, you can use the table below to start narrowing down your options. We’ve listed individual rooftop tent weights from our current range, and combined the weight of each with two common roof rack systems and their approximate weights – roof bars (5 kg per bar) and a roof platform (30 kg) — so you can see at a glance what you’d be putting on your roof. It’s also worth keeping in mind that if you’re planning to leave your rooftop tent on permanently, roof bars are worth a good look: at roughly a third of the weight of a platform rack, they can free up a meaningful chunk of your roof load allowance.

Why Snowys Stocks 23Zero and Inspired Overland

Our stance is that every brand has its own merits, regardless of whether or not it forms part of our range. The brands we choose to align with are chosen as they reflect the Snowys ethos of delivering reliable quality backed by exceptional experiences for our customers, from the moment they start researching through to purchase and the support that comes after. While we have other brands in our range that reflect this ethos, 23Zero and Inspired Overland meet that standard in droves. They build quality products, stand behind them, and are genuinely easy to work with when our customers need help. The product range across these two brands ensures there is a rooftop tent to suit almost any vehicle, and a price that doesn’t sacrifice quality to suit any budget.

Listen to Episode 176 of the Snowys Camping Show for more on rooftop tent brands including Darche. →

Inspired Overland

Inspired Overland takes a different approach – one that’s squarely focused on lightweight construction. That focus opens rooftop tent camping to a wider audience, from vehicle owners with lower roof load ratings who’ve traditionally been locked out of the RTT market to fully equipped touring builds who are looking for opportunities to trim weight. The stripped-down construction of some models also creates more affordable entry points for buyers who want a high-quality tent without paying for features they’ll never use.

They’re innovators in the truest sense – utilising materials like carbon fibre and lightweight soft-shell fabrics to keep weight down without compromising strength or durability. The Stargazer Duo is the clearest expression of that philosophy: a full acrylic roof, carbon fibre and aluminium construction, and just over 42kg on the scales. It’s a tent that does something genuinely different, built by a brand that keeps pushing what’s possible.

See the Inspired Overland range here →

23Zero

23Zero are always innovating – and what sets them apart is that their innovation is driven by the people actually using their gear. They listen to customer feedback and make real changes accordingly, and it shows across every generation of product. Their continual innovation means there is always something new and updated on the horizon, but working closely with the designers means our team genuinely understands the range and can give customers confident, informed advice.

In terms of what they cover in our range, 23Zero sit in the mid-weight to heavy-duty end of the spectrum – with a model to suit almost every vehicle. From the Dakota Super Lite at ~41kg for SUV owners watching their roof load, through to the robust Saber Pro Z with its generous interior space for serious 4WD touring, the range has genuine breadth without compromising on quality.

See 23Zero’s range here →

Matching your vehicle

In addition to the weight of the rooftop tent, you will need to consider how the tent will sit on your vehicle, see below for considerations for each vehicle type.

Sedan or small SUV

Given the low roof ratings and close nature by which the roof rails will likely be mounted, your best choice is likely a lightweight folding rooftop tent with a compact footprint.

• 23Zero Dakota Super Lite
• 23Zero Dakota 1400

If your roof bars are far enough apart, a lightweight full length model will also be suitable.

• Any of the Inspired Overland range
• 23Zero Saber Super Fly
• 23Zero Saber Super Lite (may be pushing weight limits)

Medium to large SUV

The longer roof space opens more full-length models but you may still be limited by roof weight limits.

• Any of the Inspired Overland range
• 23Zero Saber Super Fly
• 23Zero Saber Super Lite (may be pushing weight limits)

Dual cab mounting on cabin roof

While your vehicle can carry loads of weight, the roof space on these can be limiting in both weight ratings and the distance in which the roof racks are spaced, you may end up with too much overhang if you are mounting a full-length version, meaning a folding option could be the best choice.

• 23Zero Dakota Super Lite
• 23Zero Dakota 1400
• Any of the Inspired Overland range but be mindful of rack spacing and overhang

Dual cab with tub rack mounting at roof height

This is the ideal way to mount a rooftop tent on a dual cab when placing it at roof height. The tub rack usually rated well above the cab roof meaning you can mount almost any rooftop tent you want; the choice comes down to how you want to set things up. A fold-in-half models will open to the side to create shelter, while a full-length model can look very tidy fitting neatly within the edges of your tub and slightly overhand the front cab.

Dual cab mounting lower than roof height

If you want to mount your rooftop in the tub such that the top of your rooftop tent to sit close to the height of your cab roof, you’ll need to make sure the tent can be setup without fouling against the cab. You may also need to sacrifice the use of one of the window awnings. Furthermore, you will likely need a model with a smaller footprint, so it doesn’t overhang at the rear.

• 23Zero Panther Horizon 1600
• 23Zero Panther Horizon 2000
• 23Zero Yowie AX
• 23Zero Dakota 1400

Mounting on a trailer

Limitations here are specific to your trailer. It’s likely you have plenty of available capacity, and the choice really comes down to how you configure your trailer. You may need to think about how it is mounted given it may be that you aren’t using traditional roof bars.

4WD

For a 4WD with plenty of available load capacity, go for comfort and style, 23Zero offer this in spades.

Dual hinged for internal space

• 23Zero Saber Pro Z

Classic single hinge models

• 23Zero Saber Lite Paw
• 23Zero Saber

X-hinge for extra foot space

• 23Zero Vert-X 1450
• 23Zero Saber Max
• 23Zero Onyx 1300, 1450 & 1550

Weight saving options

• Any of the Inspired Overland range
• 23Zero Saber Super Fly
• 23Zero Saber Super Lite

Mounting and Setup: What You Need to Know

Roof Racks

You’ll need a roof rack system before mounting any RTT. Most tents require a pair of crossbars with a minimum spread – typically 600–900mm depending on the model. Popular systems like Rhino-Rack, Thule, and Yakima are generally compatible with the T-slot mounting hardware used across the 23Zero and Inspired Overland ranges.

Mounting Hardware

Both brands come with T-slot mounting brackets and clamps that attach to your crossbars. The process is straightforward: position the tent on the crossbars, drop the T-bolts into the slots, tighten the clamps. Refer to the installation guide for your specific model.

  Pro tip:  Have a second person help with installation – even a sub 40kg tent is awkward to lift solo. A rubber mat or moving blanket across your roof panel prevents scratches during the lift.

Ladder Setup

Most RTTs include a telescopic aluminium ladder which is integrated into some models, whilst others, particularly the lightweight models, have a removable ladder that is stored separately to the tent to keep vehicle weight down.

Weight Distribution

Position the tent as close to centre over your crossbars as the model allows. When installing lightweight model be conscious of the overhanging section where you will be sitting/climbing in and out of the tent, too much overhang here could cause structural damage to the tent once you add bodyweight.

Watch Ben install an Inspire Overland rooftop tent here → This process can be followed in a general sense for most rooftop tets and vehicle types.

Frequently Asked Questions

Finding the Right Tent for You

Buying an RTT is one of those purchases that genuinely changes how you camp. Once you’ve slept elevated with a proper mattress and a sky window overhead, a regular tent starts to feel like a step backwards.

23Zero covers almost every type of buyer – from the weight-conscious first timer on a smaller SUV through to the serious overlander who wants a hand-built hard shell with genuine interior volume. Inspired Overland offer true lightweight innovation and stripped-down offerings that suit a wider range of vehicles.

At Snowys, every RTT in this range is one we’d stand behind – and our store and online teams know these tents inside out. If you’d rather talk it through in person before committing, come in and we’ll help you match a tent to your rig.

Shop the full rooftop tent range at Snowys →

The post Rooftop Tent Guide: Load Ratings, Shell Types & Brands We Trust appeared first on Snowys Blog.

To put it simply, R-value is a measurement of the thermal resistance of a material, or how well it resists the transfer of heat. The higher the R-value, the more insulation it will provide.

More about R-value

R-value isn’t just for sleeping mats, it’s also commonly used in the construction industry. In particular, for those pink insulation batts in the ceiling of your house, they all have an R-value.

R-value isn’t something you need to be overly concerned with in summer when the ground doesn’t get very cold. Using a high R-value mat in warm weather won’t make you hot, it’s only going to put a thermal barrier between you and the ground. However, when the temperatures drop and you find yourself setting up camp on wet or icy ground – R value becomes a very important consideration.

R-value is a factor you should consider when choosing a sleeping mat. Image: Sea to Summit

The new ASTM F3340-18 standard

Back in 2016, a group of leading outdoor companies started developing a standard of testing R-Value in order to create consistency across the industry. This new standard is known as  ASTM F3340-18 and has been introduced across several ranges as of this year including Therm-a-Rest, Sea to Summit, Exped, Black Wolf and more. 

As a result of this methodology being implemented, some R-values on sleeping mats have/will change. This does not mean that the mat will be warmer or colder than before, the value is now just represented on a universal scale for an apples-to-apples comparison to other mats.  

Some brands may not test their products to the ASTM standard, or will choose to only implement this testing at a future date. There will be a transition period with the new testing as we cycle through our inventory. So, in the meantime, check the product details tab online for each model and size, or the product itself in-store to confirm it’s been tested to the ASTM standard.

For more details on the nitty-gritty of ASTM, head here >>.

How is R-value tested?

The method for testing R-Value is extremely similar to how it was previously tested, it has just been updated to be consistent across different manufacturers. It involves a hot plate on one side of a mat and a cold plate on the other, then electronic sensors determine the energy required to keep the hot plate at a consistent body heat to measure the R-Value.

We cover off on more detail in our interview with Sea To Summit here >>

Does R-value correlate to a temperature rating?

No. R-value is a measure of the transfer of temperature from one side of a material (in this case a mat) to the other, or a more technical term is ‘thermal resistance’. These values can’t be correlated to a temperature, but there are some guidelines for which R-values are suitable for each season.

Sleeping Mat R-Value Recommendations by Season

As a rough guide, here is what R-value we would recommend when choosing a sleeping mat.

Winter camping or hiking requires adequate insulation from the cold ground. Image: Sea to Summit

What R-value sleeping mat should I use in alpine conditions?

For alpine conditions, you will need a mat with an R-value of 6+ and you’ll want to make sure you team your mat up with an appropriately rated sleeping bag and suitable clothing.

Most mats you’ll see are between 0 and a 9.5 R-value rating. An example of the highest-rated mats we carry h have a value of 8-9.5. These self-inflating foam mats are too heavy for hiking and trekking adventures and are best kept for car camping.

If you’re trekking or hiking in icy conditions, you will likely be looking at a lightweight and compact mat. These can range between 0.7 for an ultralight non-insulated design, to a 5.9 for a down-filled model.

Usually, the lighter the mat is the lower the R-value. So, you may need to stack a few mats together to reach a suitable R-value for alpine use.

For example, a mat with an R-value of 4 or 5 on top of a lightweight closed-cell foam mat with a 1-2 R-value will give you the insulation you need without the bulk and weight. It will also make your sleeping system more versatile.

This chart gives you a full overview of R-Values for all kinds of conditions.

If the mat doesn’t have an R-value, is that bad?

There are plenty of high-quality mats that provide decent thermal resistance but don’t have a value listed. This is likely due to the fact that testing can be an expensive process for the manufacturer.

However, if you want to use your mat for technical expeditions you might want to choose one that is rated to be on the safe side.

How can I increase the R-value of my current sleep system?

There are ways to improve the thermal resistance of your current sleeping system depending on the time of year you want to use it.

You can add a thin foam mat underneath or use an emergency survival blanket or bag to reflect heat back into the mat or your body. Essentially, you just need to add more layers between you and the cold ground. This could even be in the form of leaves or pine needles in an emergency situation.

We hope this has answered all your questions on R-value and that you sleep well (and properly insulated) on all your future adventures.

How do you keep warm on your adventures when the temperatures drop?

The post R-Value & ASTM Standard for Sleeping Mats Explained appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Australia has no shortage of ways to spend a long weekend outdoors – from a powered caravan park site with the kids in tow, to a 4WD track most people don’t know exists, to a walk-in campsite at the end of a hiking trail. There’s no wrong way to do it. But there absolutely is a wrong set of gear – and the right kit, sorted in advance, is the difference between a long weekend of freedom and a long weekend of frustration.

Know Your Camping Style

This guide covers five camping styles – caravan park, national park, 4WD/touring, remote, and human-powered adventure – plus a section on gearing for hot and cold conditions. Find your style, check the essentials list, and kit out accordingly. Most gear crosses over well between styles once you have a solid base kit. These lists aren’t exhaustive; they simply cover of on the essentials.

We’ve popped in some helpful links to our website categories to get you started, and we’re always happy to help you put together the perfect camp kit — so don’t hesitate to reach out to us here anytime!

1. Caravan Park Camping – The Classic Aussie Long Weekend

Best for: Families with young kids, first-timers, and those who want to relax in the outdoors without being completely on their own.

Caravan parks are the easiest entry point into long weekend camping – powered sites, hot showers, camp kitchens, and often a pool or playground on-site. What you take is limited only to what your vehicle can transport, and it’s likely you’ll be able to shop for food once you arrive. Bring the stretchers, the kids’ bikes, games. No reason to hold back.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Large family tent or cabin tent – plenty of room for three nights
• Stretcher beds or camp mattress – comfort over three nights makes a real difference
• Sleeping bags rated for the season
• Camp table and chairs, including kids’ versions
• Full camp kitchen setup – optional if you plan on using the facilities at the park
• Esky or Icebox – caravan parks often have a fridge you can use
• Power board and extension cord for the powered hook-up – parks often require orange 15A leads, and choose a power board with overload protection
• LED lights, headlamps and/or torches
• Entertainment for three days – bikes, balls, fishing rods, outdoor games

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Long weekend caravan parks fill up weeks – sometimes months – in advance. Don’t leave the booking until the week before. Check cancellation policies too; plans change.

2. National Park Camping – Nature with a Safety Net

Best for: Families, couples, and nature lovers who want genuine immersion in the outdoors with some basic facilities still in place.

National park camping puts you in genuinely spectacular country with a basic safety net still in place – amenities block, fire rings, rangers nearby, and a designated site that’s yours for the weekend. You’re more self-sufficient than a caravan park (no mains power or water, longer drive from town) but nowhere near the demands of true remote camping. It’s the natural next step up, and a great confidence builder.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• A reliable weather-rated tent – national park conditions can be unpredictable
• Sleeping bag and mat rated for the overnight temperatures
• Portable gas stove – fires are frequently banned or restricted, don’t rely on them
• Water storage – carry enough for the full long weekend even if tap water is on-site
• Water treatment or filtration as a backup
• LED lantern and headlamps
• Camp table and chairs
• 12V Fridge or quality icebox
• 12V portable battery + solar panel for extended stays – no mains power on-site
• Download maps offline before you leave – phone signal in national parks is unreliable
• PLB recommended, especially in larger or more remote parks
• First aid kit and insect protection

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Long weekend bookings for popular national parks sell out fast – sometimes months in advance. Check the relevant park authority’s booking system early: SA National Parks, Parks Victoria, NSW National Parks, and Queensland National Parks all have online booking. Don’t assume you can rock up and find a site.

3. 4WD / Touring – The Vehicle is the Base Camp

Best for: Adventure drivers, serious gear enthusiasts, and those who want to use a long weekend to explore country that most people never reach.

4WD camping turns the vehicle itself into the base camp – rooftop tent, 12V fridge, dual battery, onboard water – letting you reach places most setups simply can’t. A long weekend is just enough to get well off the beaten track and back without rushing. The gear investment is significant once vehicle mods start, but even a modest 4WD with a swag in the back is a formidable long weekend machine.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Rooftop or touring tent, or quality swag
• Sleeping bag and mat rated for the overnight temperatures
• 12V fridge/freezer to keep food and drinks cold, no ice runs required
• Dual battery system or portable power with DC-DC charger and/or folding solar
• Water storage, onboard or portable
• Water treatment – filter water as you refill 
• Gas or dual-fuel stove – a slide-out camp kitchen is the gold standard
• Camp table and chairs
• UHF radio for communication on remote tracks
• PLB or satellite communicator – non-negotiable if you’re heading well off-grid
• Vehicle recovery kit: snatch strap, shackles, MaxTrax, tyre deflator and inflator, hi-lift jack
• Full first aid kit, fire extinguisher, and a solid tool kit

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend is a great opportunity to test a new part of your setup before committing to a longer trip. Identify issues or pain points with your setup and sort it before you leave – not when you’re 80km down a track.

4. Remote Camping – Off the Grid, Alone with Nature

Best for: Experienced campers who want solitude, self-sufficiency, and a genuine long weekend reset in the outback.

Remote camping takes 4WD Camping to the next level. It means no facilities, no phone signal, no safety net – you carry everything in and carry everything out. Three days in genuinely remote country is one of the most rewarding long weekend formats in Australia, but it demands capable gear, solid planning, and likely extra travel time. This is not the time to test budget kit. One reliable piece of gear is worth more than three cheap ones that might let you down.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• A durable shelter capable of handling strong wind and rain – don’t cut corners here
• A sleeping bag and mat rated well below the expected overnight temperature
• Reliable 12V fridge/freezer to keep food and drinks cold
• Reliable stove with enough fuel for three days of cooking
• Water filtration or purification system – unless you can carry three days of water plus emergency supplies
• Satellite communicator (e.g. Zoleo or SPOT) for two-way messaging – or at minimum a PLB
• Topographic maps and compass – don’t rely on a phone for navigation in remote areas
• Leave No Trace: waste bags, trowel, biodegradable soap
• Comprehensive first aid kit
• LED lantern and headlamps
• 12V portable battery + solar panel for extended stays – no mains power on-site
• Leave a detailed trip plan with someone at home – location, route, and when to raise an alarm if needed

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend is just enough time to do remote camping properly – but not enough time to recover from poor planning. Do your route research, check weather forecasts, let someone know your plan, and carry a PLB. No exceptions.

5. Human-Powered Adventure Camping – No Vehicle Required

Best for: Hikers, cyclists, and paddlers who want to reach places a vehicle can’t – under their own steam.

Some of the best long weekend campsites in Australia can’t be driven to – they’re at the end of a long walk, around a river bend only a kayak can reach, or along a ridge only a loaded bike can access. Whatever the mode, the gear philosophy is identical: every gram has to earn its place. Buy the lightest version that’s genuinely up to the job, and the core kit can be used for any activity.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Ultralight tent, tarp, or bivy – packable and weather-appropriate
• Down or synthetic sleeping bag – prioritise packability and weight
• Compact sleeping mat – packs smallest, critical for comfort over three nights
• Compact stove, lightweight cookset & dinnerware
• Water filtration – squeeze filter or straw filter for minimum weight
• Merino or synthetic base layers, waterproof shell, gloves & beanies
• Navigation: downloaded topo maps, compass, GPS or phone with offline maps
• PLB – non-negotiable for any multi-day trip away from help
• Leave No Trace hygeine: trowel, waste bags, biodegradable soap
• Headlamp with spare batteries

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend trip close to home is the ideal first human-powered adventure – long enough to find out what works, short enough to survive any surprises. Sort the kit at home, not on the trail.

Camping for the Conditions – Hot Weather vs Cold Weather Gear

Applies to all camping styles – because the Australian climate doesn’t care what your plans are.

A long weekend in Australia can mean 38°C in the Queensland outback or a sub-zero overnight in the Snowy Mountains – sometimes in the same month. Getting your gear right for the conditions isn’t just about comfort; in extremes, it’s about safety. Here’s what changes across the key gear categories.

Shelter

Hot: prioritise ventilation – large mesh inners, dual-wall construction, the ability to pitch the fly high. Lighter coloured flies reflect more heat.

Cold: choose a 3–4 season tent with a robust pole structure, low profile, and full-coverage fly that reaches near the ground to block wind and retain warmth.

Sleeping System

Hot: a liner or lightweight sheet bag is often enough – a full sleeping bag in summer is miserable.

Cold: buy a bag rated at least 5°C below the coldest overnight temperature you expect (look for EN or ISO standard temperature ratings) Your sleeping mat R-value matters as much as the bag – the ground pulls heat out of your body faster than cold air does. R4+ is essential below 5°C overnight.

Clothing and Layering

Hot: lightweight, breathable, quick-dry fabrics, a quality sun shirt, wide-brimmed hat, and UV sunglasses.

Cold: the layering system – merino base, insulating mid-layer (down or synthetic), waterproof/windproof shell. Cotton is dangerous in cold conditions; it holds moisture and loses all insulation value when wet.

Hydration

Hot: water needs can jump to 4–6+ litres per person per day with physical activity – dehydration is the most common preventable illness on Australian camping trips. Carry more than you think you need and use electrolytes in the heat.

Cold: thirst signals are suppressed in the cold even as your body needs fluids to generate warmth – drink consciously, and use hot drinks (tea, broth, coffee) to stay warm and hydrated.

Stove and Fuel

Hot: most stoves perform fine, but always check fire restrictions before you leave – total fire bans in summer can cover gas stoves and alcohol burners.

Cold: isobutane canisters lose pressure below ~5°C, causing slower boil times and unreliable performance. Fix with a regulated gas stove, warm up your canister, or switch to a liquid fuel stove for serious alpine trips.

Safety by Season

Heat: key risks are dehydration, heat exhaustion, and bushfire – hike early, rest in shade, check the fire danger rating, and have a clear plan if conditions change.

Cold: key risks are hypothermia and exposure – wet plus cold is dangerous, change out of wet layers immediately, carry a PLB, and always leave a trip plan with someone at home.

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Checking the Bureau of Meteorology forecast before any long weekend camping trip is non-negotiable – not just the daytime high, but overnight lows, wind speed, and any watches or warnings in the area. Weather apps are handy, but bom.gov.au has the most detailed and reliable forecasts for Australian conditions.

Don’t Let the Long Weekend Pass You By

The biggest barrier to a great long weekend is almost always just getting organised. The right gear, sorted in advance, means you leave work on Friday, throw the kit in the car, and go. Find your style in this guide, fill your list, and get out there.

Browse our full range of camping gear at snowys.com.au or visit us in-store in Adelaide or Brisbane.

Long weekends are for camping.

The post Long Weekends Are For Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this blog, we bivvy down on how to effectively wash a down sleeping bag for sweeter dreams and squeaky-clean camping trips.

Let’s get down to it…

Your bag is built for adventure, but it’s important to keep it clean. Image: Sea to Summit

What’s Required?

1. Down wash – specialised down wash is formulated to clean and restore the water repellency, without damaging the fill. This is why it’s important to use it instead of conventional detergents.
2. Large front-loading washing machine – Yep, you’re going to have to get yourself down to the local laundromat! Home washing machines are too small, lacking enough circulation of water to clean the bag efficiently. Top-loading washing machines generally also have an agitator, which can damage the baffles on your bag. For these reasons, it’s best to avoid them.
3. Front-loading dryer – It’s ideal to use the biggest dryer you have available to you. If you’re finding you need to stuff it into your dryer, it’s too small and the bag won’t dry efficiently. This can cause damage to your bag.
4. Tennis balls or wool dryer balls – this is to ensure that the down doesn’t clump together as it dries.

You’ll need some down wash, tennis or dryer balls, a large front loader, and a front-loading dryer.

What to Avoid When Washing A Down Bag

• Bleach, conventional detergents, or washing powder
• Top-loading washing machines
• Dry-cleaning

How To Wash Your Down Sleeping Bag in a Front Loader Machine

Check the wash instructions on your sleeping bag, as this will provide specific information about what temperature to set the machine and the settings to apply.

1. Turn the bag inside out and put it in the machine
2. Ensure there isn’t residual washing powder in there first, before adding the volume of down wash according to the label
3. Set the machine to the correct temperature, and set to the ‘delicate’ or ‘gentle’ cycle
4. Remove when the cycle has finished, and check it over

Add to the tumble dryer on the ‘low heat’ (‘gentle’) setting, with dryer or tennis balls to prevent clumping

After washing, pop your sleeping bag in a dryer with some tennis balls to prevent clumping.

How To Handwash Your Down Sleeping Bag in a Bathtub

1. Turn the bag inside out with all the zips and tabs closed
2. Fill your bathtub with lukewarm water (or whatever temperature the bag’s instructions suggest)
3. Add the recommended volume of down wash
4. Lie the bag out flat in the tub, and gently massage in the wash
5. Leave it to soak for about an hour
6. Drain the tub and fill it will water to rinse the bag
7. Leave to soak in the water for around 15 minutes
8. Gently press on the bag remove the soap, and repeat this a couple of times until no suds remain
9. Drain the tub, then press on the bag gently to remove excess water
10. If your dryer is not big enough, you can take it to your local laundromat. Or, lay it out flat on a drying rack or clothesline in a warm, ventilated area – indoors or outdoors. You will need to give it a gentle shake every now and again to ensure the down doesn’t clump.

A down sleeping bag needs to remain in good condition to perform ideally in severe weather conditions. Image: Sea to Summit

How To Keep Your Down Bag in Good Condition

Use A Sleeping Bag Liner

Use a sleeping bag liner every single time you use the bag. This will minimise the sweat and oils from your skin that tarnish the bag and affect its insulation.

Go to Bed Clean!

On a longer trek, this may be tricky to avoid – but try not to sleep in your bag wearing dirty clothing. Wipe down your face and neck with a baby wipe too, as this is where most of the oils can rub off and onto the hood. Essentially, the cleaner you are in your bag, the less dirty your bag will become.

Using a clean liner will prevent oil and dirt from building up inside your newly clean bag. 

Spot Clean Regularly

If you do spill or smear something on your bag, spot clean it as soon as you can with a damp cloth.

Air it Out After Use

When you arrive home from a trip, spread your sleeping out to air-dry for a couple of hours. This will dry any residual moisture from sweat or condensation.

If you do spill or smear something on your bag, spot clean it as soon as you can. Image: Sea to Summit

Store it Properly

Avoid storing your bag in its compression stuff sack, as this can damage the down and reduce its performance. Instead, stash it in the larger storage bag that it comes equipped with. This will help to keep the fill in good condition for as long as possible.

That’s all, Folks!

Don’t put off washing your down sleeping bag any longer – just like the feeling of fresh sheets, a freshly laundered bag is going to feel amazing after a vigorous day of adventure!

Just like the feeling of fresh sheets, a freshly laundered bag is going to feel amazing after a vigorous day of adventure! Image: Sea to Summit

When was the last time you washed your down bag (if ever)? Go on, be honest!

The post How to Wash a Down Sleeping Bag appeared first on Snowys Blog.

At this time of the year, the fire bans are usually lifted – providing the perfect opportunity to venture to your favourite secluded campsite and flex your rusty camp cooking muscle! But why not enjoy the outdoors from the comfort of your own backyard ?

In this blog, we take you from breaking in the hiking kicks to breaking out the Ugg boots, with top tips to make the most of camp cooking at home.

Let’s get crackling – er, we mean cracking!

Enjoy a bit of the outdoors at home. Image: Coleman

Guidelines for Having a Fire in Your Backyard

Make sure you check what the restrictions are in your state for contained fires before you get excited and start your cook-up. These are in place to reduce the impact of smoke on the environment as well as the health of your neighbours.

For example: in South Australia, according to the Environmental Protection Authority, inside the Adelaide metropolitan area, you can have a fire for the preparation of food and beverages and for heating an outdoor area using a brazier, chiminea or fire pit, but you can only use charcoal.

If you’re outside of metropolitan Adelaide and townships then you can have a fire for preparation of food and beverages and for heating an outdoor area using a brazier, chiminea or fire pit using dry timber, charcoal or plant matter.

Cook up some delicious campfire food at home. Image: Mary Billard

Cooking with Charcoal Vs Cooking with Wood

Charcoal is going to be faster than wood fire cooking, and will also produce less smoke so you won’t have that smoky flavour you get when cooking over a fire. But, this does mean that it causes less air pollution. Charcoal is also lightweight and fairly easy to get your hands on as most hardware or barbecue stores will sell it.

In terms of wood, there are some limitations as to where you can collect it for fires if you are out camping, but you can get your hands on alternatives, such as briquettes/Ekologs or timber from hardware or landscape suppliers. For more information on how to choose wood for campfires, head here.

It will take you a bit more time to burn the wood long enough to create coals on the fire to have it ready to cook your food, but once you do, the woodfire flavours will be worth the wait.

Cooking with charcoal is a bit quicker and easier than using wood. Image: osoliving

What to Cook On?

When it comes to what you can cook on, according to the regulations in place at this time, you can use a brazier, chiminea or fire pit – so those are your best bet for trying the delicious campfire recipes you’ve got your eye on over the coming months.

Firepit Options for Warmth and Cooking:

Stainless Steel Designs

Darche have a stainless steel design that comes in two sizes, the 310 which is perfect for a couple or the 450 which is slightly bigger for a small family.

The folding design makes it easy to set up and store, and the shiny food-grade stainless-steel design is nice and stylish, so it will look good set up in your backyard.

The 23ZERO BBQ 51 is a similar model, while the SupaPeg Frontier fire pit boasts an innovative 8-panel design for greater efficiency and safety. For more on these, check out our hot picks and best-selling fire pits here!

A stainless steel fire pit is ideal for at home or campsite use. Image: Darche

High-Tech Fire Pits

A more high-tech option is the snazzy-looking Fire Pit Plus from BioLite, which is the smokeless solution to cooking and warming up outdoors.

This unit uses patented airflow technology for hyper-efficient flames without the smoke, the x-ray mesh on the Fire Pit gives you the mesmerising view of a floating fire, and the rack can be adjusted to use with both charcoal or wood as fuel.

It features 12,800 mAh pack which can be recharged easily via USB to give you up to 30 hours of power on ‘low fan’. Plus, it’s controlled by the free compatible Bluetooth app, and it folds up for transport.

The removable grill plate allows you to cook yummy Japanese hibachi-style meals too, so it’s a great option for those who love a bit of technology and style with their gear.

For something a bit more high-tech, check out BioLite’s Fire Pit. Image: BioLite

Cookers

The classic Ozpig cooker is something you might already have in your camping kit, as it’s versatile enough to be used on your outdoor adventures as well as out on the deck. You can cook all sorts on here, and there are various accessories available such as a smoker and rotisserie kit – to name a few, so you can try an array of tasty dishes on your pig!

Warm up by the fire, while cooking up a storm on the Ozpig. Image: Ozpig

Cookware to Use with Firepits

Now would also be a great time to dust off your camp oven and give it a whirl. The art of camp oven cooking is quite different from normal cooking as you don’t have as much control, but with a bit of practice, you’ll be a natural.

For more on cooking with camp ovens, check out this episode of the Snowys Camping Show with Ron Wilson and Mick Viller:

Camp Ovens

Camp ovens come in two different formats – spun steel and cast iron.

Spun steel is lighter and more durable in terms of transportation – however, cast iron can last you a lifetime with proper care, and retains heat beautifully so you can cook roasts to perfection. That said, cast irons can be quite heavy and slightly brittle, which means they’re not ideal for transporting on corrugated roads. You will have to season your camp oven too; check out our guide here for details on how.

Spun steel weighs less, won’t break if you drop it, and are a little easier to use on a gas stove, so are more versatile. For more on how to choose the right camp oven for you, check out our video here!

Whether it’s spun steel or cast iron, a camp oven is a must. Image: iStock

For more on spun steel versus cast iron, check out this episode of the Snowys Camping Show:

Jaffle Irons and Toaster Forks

If you’re feeling a bit lazier, or you want to try something a bit more fun with the kids – a jaffle iron is the perfect campfire cooking solution. Grab two pieces of bread and your favourite fillings, stick them in the jaffle iron and the kids can toast them at a safe distance from the fire or fire pit. A toaster fork is also a must for roasting marshmallows for an after-dinner treat.

In this blog, Ben can’t talk highly enough of the humble jaffle iron!

A jaffle iron is a fun choice for the whole family. Image: Campfire

Cooking Stands

There are a number of cooking stands available that come in a few different configurations to suit your cooking style. You can choose from a flat plate, grill or combo plates that enable you to create a variety of dishes over a fire, whatever your setup.

Cookstands are versatile and ideal for camping home or away. Image: Campfire

Camp Cooking Recipe Ideas

Damper: Sweet or Savoury

Damper – a campfire classic that always goes down a treat with it’s crunchy outer, and fluffy inside. Here is a delicious recipe on how to bake one in your camp oven. The great thing about damper is that it’s super versatile depending on what you put in it. Try it with sultanas, brown sugar and cinnamon for a sweet treat or add cheese and bacon for a savoury twist.

Yum! You can’t go wrong with a classic damper recipe. Image: Christina Pickard

Roast Meat with Veggies

Or, if you’ve got more time on your hands, fill up your backyard with the mouth-watering smells of roast pork and veggies by trying out our roast pork in a camp oven recipe here.

The whole family can sit down outside to a traditional roast in the backyard. Image: Bobbi Lin

Other Great Dishes to Try

Other delicious and meals to make include nachos, brisket, ribs, corn on the cob, and paella to name a few. You could even give some simple dessert options a crack as a treat. For more camp recipe inspiration, check out our range of recipe books here. The benefit of cooking at home is that you’ve got everything you need inside your own pantry, so you’ve got the flexibility to be a bit more creative with what you cook.

Are you going to give homestyle campfire cooking a crack this autumn/winter?

The post Tips for Campfire Cooking at Home appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Beyond the books, school bags, and lunch boxes, there’s the outdoor classroom offering lessons to be learned in self-discovery, life skills, and leadership – and with the right kit comes the confidence to kick butt! If you’re reading this, chances are your child is embarking on a school, Cadets, Scouts, or Guides hiking trip – maybe even starting their bronze Duke of Edinburgh award! Your task? Getting the gear to kit them out!

We know the conundrum: you want the gear to be functional, warm, and comfortable… but you’re not confident that they’re ever going to use it again. In this blog, we’ve unpacked the ultimate checklist for your child’s upcoming outdoor camp or expedition, having rustled up some advice on the most important and expensive items you’ll need (sleeping bags, mats, packs, and shoes), as well as other affordable, middle-of-the-range, and premium gear for beginner hikers.

Put the pencils down, lace up, and let’s hit the track!

In this guide, we’ve rustled up some advice on the most important and expensive items you’ll need. Image: Caribee

Sleeping Bag

Consider Packed Size, Weight, and Warmth

A sleeping bag is one of the most critical pieces of gear, as it’s the difference between a comfortable sleep and a cold, sleepless night. Packed size, weight, and warmth are the most important considerations here.

Avoid Bags Designed for General Camping

These are heavier and have a bulkier packed size, so not suitable for carrying in a rucksack. Instead, look for sleeping bags that are between 1-1.5kg if possible, with a suitable packed size. For more information on how to choose lightweight sleeping bags for hiking, check out this article here.

Pick a bag that’s as warm, light, and compact as possible for your budget. Image: Alamy

Bag Rating

If you’re unsure about the temperature rating, we recommend choosing a bag with a comfort rating (not a ‘lower limit’ or ‘extreme’ rating) that is 5 to 10 degrees lower than the average temperature it will be used in.

Synthetic for Affordability, Down for Longevity

Synthetic sleeping bags are popular with campers and hikers alike, as they’re inexpensive, faster-drying, and will still provide some insulation when damp (compared to down).

A down-filled sleeping bag will offer more warmth for weight than a synthetic bag. When taken care of, a quality down bag can last for years – so it is a good investment if it’s going to be used over and over again.

A sleeping bag is the difference between a comfortable sleep and a cold, sleepless night. Image: Goal Zero

Accessorise for Extra Warmth

A thermal sleeping bag liner is a lightweight way to increase the warmth of a bag by a few degrees and is extra insurance should the temperatures drop unexpectedly.

An emergency or space blanket comes standard with most first aid kits, so that can always be used to add insulation under a sleeping mat, or on top of a sleeping bag for extra warmth in a pinch.

We’ve also got some extra tips on how to make a sleeping bag warmer, which might be handy to read here.

We Recommend:

Sea to Summit Circuit or Trek Sleeping Bags

A step up in durability and price is the Trek and Circuit range from Sea to Summit – high quality and affordable down bags available in multiple temperature ratings. This bag is a top-quality all-rounder, suitable for hiking, travel, and camping.

Closed-cell foam mats offer limited comfort, but are super lightweight and don’t cost a lot. Image: Wilderness Escape Outdoor Adventures

Sleeping Mat

The Same Goes…

For a more technical trip where weight, warmth and packed size are again very important considerations – a bulky and heavy mat will be uncomfortable to carry.

Air-filled mats are generally the most compact, lightweight and compressible options for lightweight adventures. In cold conditions, however, air beds do not offer adequate insulation – so you will need to choose one that does.

Self-inflating mats have open cell foam which has cores or holes cut out so they can be compressed down, which are a bit more luxurious but are slightly heavier than air-filled mats.

The third option is closed cell foam mats which are dense rolls of foam that can’t be compressed. These offer limited comfort, but are super lightweight and don’t cost a lot.

We Recommend:

Sea to Summit Ultralight Insulated Sleeping Mat

A go-to option here would be the Ultralight XR Insulated Sleeping Mat from Sea to Summit, as this packs down to 23L x 11W x 11H cm, is 5cm thick (providing decent padding) and has an R-value of 3.3 to insulate against the cold from the ground.

It represents great value for money, as it’s insulated, compact, and offers enough thickness even for side sleepers to be comfortable. Plus, it’s consistently a top seller with great reviews, and we’ve had it in our range for years.

Some schools won’t allow air-filled or self-inflating mats, as both of these styles can be punctured. If that’s the case, a closed-cell foam mat is the only sleeping mat option. This can also be used under another mat in colder conditions for extra insulation, and for other activities such as yoga or gym – so it won’t gather dust in the shed after the trip!

If you can fit all your gear in a smaller pack, you’re on the right track! Image: Sea to Summit

Packs

The Right Style and the Right Fit

Look for a long, thin top-loading pack, not a zippered travel pack. Harness fit is the most important factor, so have your pack fitted in person if you can.

The hip belt must be snug as it carries 60-70% of the weight, and the shoulder straps need to be rounded over the top of the shoulders. A pack should also have an internal frame that distributes weight onto the hip belt.

Need help? Check out some of our best-selling daypacks for this year.

A Big Pack is a Heavy Pack

A 65L size rucksack should provide plenty of space to carry a sleeping mat, sleeping bag, clothing, first-aid kit, and basic kitchen gear. If you can fit all your gear in a smaller pack, you’re on the right track (see what we did there?). However, if you need much bigger than 65L, you may need to reconsider the gear you are packing.

Check out this blog for more on how to pack a rucksack.

We’ve got a selection of gear options for all budgets. Image by Snowy Mountains Grammar School

Accessories Aren’t Always Necessary

A detachable day pack or removable rain cover are handy, but these features add weight.

We Recommend:

Caribee Cadet 65L Auscam Rucksack

The Caribee Cadet 65L Auscam Rucksack is the ideal choice if you’re looking for a basic design that fulfills the standard requirements. It features a padded back and hip belt, an aluminium frame for distributing weight, and molle webbing attachment points for carrying gear externally.

Deuter Aircontact Rucksack

The Deuter Aircontact range offers premium comfort and durability out of all the packs in our range, available in a variety of sizes with slimline fit options too.

The Aircontact back system provides padding and ventilation, and you can get achieve your ideal fit with the pivoting help belt. An adaptable shoulder harness also provides maximum comfort when carrying gear. This is the best option for those who are confident it will get used repeatedly in the future.

For more on the Deuter hiking pack range, tune into Ben and Lauren’s interview on the Snowys Camping Show podcast with Manfred from TMO Sports:

Hiking shoes and trail runners are appropriate for day hikes, but higher-cut hiking boots are better for multi-day expeditions. Image: Keen

Footwear

Fit Your Footwear (If Possible)

Sneakers are not going to be heavy-duty enough for hiking. In general, hiking shoes and trail runners are appropriate for day hikes with a daypack. For a multi-day expedition with a heavier rucksack, sturdier and higher-cut trekking boots are required.

If you can, have your child’s hiking boots properly fitted. Take the time in-store for your child to try them on with appropriate socks, walk around the store if possible, and up/down stairs etc. Pay attention to slippage and rub spots.

Allow Wiggle Room for Toes!

There should be space for toes to wiggle and enough volume in the shoe to adjust for feet swelling in warm weather. The heel should not slip up and down, and the sides of the shoe should be snug against the foot without crushing toes, to avoid sideways slipping.

Break in the Boots

Allow plenty of time for the shoes or boots to be broken in before the trip, to ensure they’re comfortable. For more information on how to choose footwear, have a read of our hiking shoes and boots guide here.

Allow plenty of time for the shoes or boots to be broken in before the trip. Image by Limavady Grammar School

Tents

A basic, 3-man dome is suitable, at approx. 3-4 kg. For a hiking-specific expedition, aim for a 1-2P tent weighing no more than 2kg. For more information, read up on our top 10 best-selling hiking tents for this year.

Stoves

The brand Trangia is safe to use, and includes pots and pans. For hiking, gas stoves are light, simple, and compact, but pots and pans are extra weight. For more information, read up on our top 10 best selling hiking stoves for this year.

Pots and Pans

Alloy is light, but not the safest to eat from. Hard anodised is better, yet expensive. Stainless steel is a good balance. For hiking, you can probably manage with a bowl and cup that you can both cook in and eat out of, to save space. The Sea to Summit X-Pots are collapsible and lightweight, as are their new Frontier range:

Cutlery

Again, consider weight. You probably only need a fork and spoon, depending on what is being cooked. The Sea to Summit Frontier Ultralight Set is a fantastic lightweight but durable option. Sea To Summit have a fantastic range to suit every adventure, see the video below for a walkthrough of what’s available.

Rain Coat

Look for a basic, seam-sealed jacket that allows a few layers to be worn underneath.

Thermals

Not cotton! Look for polyester, polypropylene or merino wool.

Extra Set of Warm Clothing

As with other camp clothing, look for merino wool or synthetic fabrics. For hiking, lightweight is best. Lots of layers are the most versatile way to achieve adequate warmth.

Toiletries

Just the basics, don’t go overboard: toothbrush, toothpaste and deodorant. For laundry, the Scrubba Washbag is the ultimate portable washing machine for getting rid of off-grid grime! For hiking, keep the weight down: simply a toothbrush and small tube of toothpaste is more than enough.

Check out our guide to doing laundry in the outdoors!

The Scrubba Washbag is the ultimate portable washing machine for getting rid of off-grid grime! Image: Scrubba

Don’t go overboard with toiletries, you just need the basics. Image: Sea to Summit

Sun and Insect Protection

Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, and insect repellent. For hiking, look for small sunscreen containers, or transfer some from a large container into a smaller one to save weight.

Water

A 1-litre water bottle is versatile – just make sure they don’t leak. For hiking, consider a water bladder that fits into the pack. This allows for easy efficient drinking whilst hiking.

A 1-litre water bottle is versatile. Image: Nalgene

First Aid and Medication

A basic kit with adhesive plasters, cleaning swabs, resuscitation mask. An elastic bandage is also very useful. For hiking, keep weight and size in mind – only take what you will need. You should be able to make a kit that fits into one hand. For how to manage spider and snake bites, check out this blog – or tune into Ben and Lauren on the Snowys Camping Show:

Camera

A basic, lightweight digital camera will capture all the memories. For hiking, just focus on what’s compact and light.

Torch

Hand-held torches or a head-torch. Head-torches are lightweight and versatile, keeping your hands free for camp duties.

Need us to shed more light? Check out this year’s top selling headlamps for camping and hiking.

A basic, lightweight digital camera will capture all the memories. Image: Sea to Summit

What do you remember most vividly about your first hiking trip?

The post The Ultimate School Camp Checklist appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The structure, waterproof properties and condition of the leather on your shoes are all important elements to maintain so that they perform properly. Plus you paid good money for your fancy hiking boots, so there’s no use trashing them!

In this article, we’re going to talk you through how to clean, condition and waterproof your hiking boots or shoes so that they’re always adventure-ready. We also tackle a bunch of the frequently asked questions we get about caring for your shoes, so read on for more.

Heads up, before we get down to it: our footwear range is now only available online, with limited stock left! Head here to check out what remains of the range (at ridiculously low prices) – plus, more in our Mid-Year sale (ending in a matter of DAYS)!

After Each Wear…

Your boots are designed and made to withstand dirt, mud, rocks and water but that doesn’t mean that they are indestructible.

It’s really important to give them a quick wipe down after each time you wear them. This is because dirt and mud will wear down your shoes and dry them out over time, which can lead to cracked boots.

Dirt also attracts water. This makes the waterproof coating less effective making it more difficult for moisture from sweat to escape. You don’t have to give them a thorough scrub, just make sure they’re dirt-free before you put them in storage again.

Check your boots after each wear, and make sure you brush off any dirt or mud. Image: Alamy

Cleaning the Upper of Your Hiking Boots

If they’re encrusted in mud, get your hands on a soft boot brush, or a toothbrush and use circular motions to slowly buff off any dirt that’s stuck on there.

To give them a thorough clean, you may need to use a specialised outdoor footwear cleaner. This is because conventional detergents can leave behind a residue that can negatively affect the water repellency of your shoes.

Proper and regular cleaning is going to keep the waterproof treatment on your shoes performing properly. Though over time the DWR treatment will wear off and will have to be reapplied. For details on waterproofing, keep scrolling.

Use a specialised cleaning gel to give your outdoor shoes a thorough clean. Image: Nikwax

Cleaning the Outsole of Your Hiking Boots

Dirty soles can be a risk to native wildlife and plants as it’s possible to track in and introduce species from one area to another from your soles.

This could end up causing damage to a delicate ecosystem or environment, which is why it’s important to give your soles a scrub after each trip.

A dirty outsole won’t affect performance, but be considerate of how that impacts the environment. Image: Shutterstock

Drying Your Hiking Boots

When drying out your shoes after cleaning them, it might be tempting to stick them outside on a warm day or pop them in front of the heater.

But, you should just dry them in a well-ventilated place that’s out of direct heat or sunlight. You could even put them in front of a fan if you need to speed things up.

We’ve had a Snowys teammate ruin their leather boots by leaving them out in the sun to dry in the middle of a long-distance hike. This made them shrink, which meant hobbling the rest of the way in too-small boots. As you can imagine, this was a blistery, painful disaster – so keep your shoes away from heat!

Keep those damp shoes out of the sun when drying them.

Waterproofing Your Hiking Boots

Hiking boots or shoes will come with a factory applied durable water repellency treatment (or DWR treatment for short) on them. During use, the exposure to sun, dirt, water and abrasions will eventually make the coating lose its effectiveness.

There isn’t a strict timeframe that we would recommend for how often you need to apply a waterproof treatment to your boots. The best advice we can give you is that when you notice that water is no longer beading off of your shoes, and is soaking in instead – then it’s time to waterproof them again.

You can get specialised waterproofing products for nubuck and suede, combination (synthetic and leather) and smooth leather.

It’s essential to choose a product that caters to that material, as for example – using a waterproofing wax meant for smooth leather on suede will completely ruin the texture of it.

It’ll be obvious that you need to waterproof your boots, as the leather will soak through and darken. Image: Keen

Conditioning Your Leather or Suede Hiking Boots

Nubuck, suede and synthetic are all materials that don’t need to be conditioned. However, if your shoes are made of smooth full-grain leather, you will need to condition them. Full grain leather can dry out which can cause cracking, and reduce the effectiveness of the waterproof coating.

Conditioning the leather on your boots will not only keep it supple and supportive, it will also top up the waterproof repellency. When conditioning, brush off any dirt that’s stuck to your boots so that they’re clean before you start.

It’s best to follow the instructions for the conditioner that you choose as the instructions might differ across the brands.  Don’t condition them too frequently though as if you oversoften them, they will lose their structure and support.

If you need to break your shoes in quickly, a conditioner will also help to soften your boots up so that they’re trail-ready in no time.

Leather boots need conditioning every so often to prevent cracking. Image: Desiree Stimpert

Shoe Care FAQ’s:

1. If my shoes have a waterproof membrane, then why do I need to keep waterproofing them?

Exposure to dirt, sun and general wear and tear will make the upper of your boots lose their water repellency. This will mean that the moisture from sweat that evaporates out of the membrane won’t pass through the upper, which will eventually cause your feet to get damp.

This is why you will need to revitalise the DWR coating when necessary.

2. Can I make non-waterproof shoes waterproof?

Unfortunately, you can’t. In order for your shoes to reliably keep out water, they need to have a waterproof membrane, so putting a coating of waterproofer on them isn’t going to protect you from rain or puddles!

3. Can I use normal waterproofing spray on my hiking boots?

The aerosol waterproofers that you get from shoe stores aren’t going to cut the mustard for this. These sprays are often silicone based which will actually make your shoes less breathable. Something water based is going to be your best bet here.

4. I’ve just bought a pair of boots, do I need to do anything to them?

No, you don’t. Your shoes should already be waterproofed, and they should already be clean and conditioned. It’s only after you’ve worn them for a while that you need to re-waterproof, clean or condition them.

Next time you buy a new pair of trail boots or shoes, we hope that this guide helps you figure out to keep them in good condition for many future uses.

How do you keep your hiking shoes and boots in good condition? Do you have any tips? Let us know!

The post How to Waterproof, Clean, & Condition Hiking Boots appeared first on Snowys Blog.

That doesn’t have to mean your getaway is cancelled; why not take your holiday to the backyard?

At the end of the day, kids often love the experience more than the location, so get them out and about in a different way. Backyard camping requires only a portion of the organisation and planning that a trip away from home does – plus, there are no travel times!

The best part about backyard camping? No long car rides! Image: Nikki Fotheringham

Setting Up Your Shelter

Any tent will do. Let’s face it, if things go pear-shaped you can just go inside!

If you don’t already have a tent, pick one up at an affordable price; it will more than suffice for backyard campouts (we recommend the Tasman series by OZtrail). Or, set up a full campsite with a family tent, mats, sleeping bags – plus all the extras like a table, chairs, and a camp kitchen. You’ll still achieve the outdoor experience, and it’s easy to throw in the odd luxury from the house if you like too. For this year’s top-selling sleeping bags – including for kids – check out this blog.

Backyard camping also means you don’t have to be a minimalist, given there’s no need to squeeze everything into the boot of your car! Setting up and packing down your campsite is as easy as transporting your gear from inside your shed and house to your own outdoor space.

For a cosy atmosphere too, fill your tent with all the creature comforts you usually wouldn’t bother dragging out to the campsite. This could include plush cushions, pillows, doonas, and blankets.

Have Fun with Your Setup!

Get creative with your backyard setup to really ‘transport’ everyone to a different place. With some help from the kids, create a fort using tarps, blankets, sheets, and rope, and bring in the furniture from the playroom to turn it into a fun space to hang out in.

Pick a theme, or raid your shed for all those seasonal decorations! Have fun with it – remember, you’re on holiday!

Create a nice, mellow vibe in your yard. Image: Lillie Farrow

Atmospheric Lighting and Music

Now is the perfect time to use your solar lanterns, fairy lights, or other string lighting to add a warm glow to your backyard. Grab your speaker to play some tunes or, if you really want to escape, the sounds of nature will do the trick too!

Check out our best-selling camping lights and lanterns here!

Try Camp Cooking at Home

If it’s safe and considerate to do so, stoke up a campfire in your backyard or use a cooker like the Ozpig to refine your camp cooking skills in the backyard. Or, for more on campfire cooking gear, check out Episode 103 of The Snowys Camping Show:

Damper is an easy recipe to master. It can be made to just about any savoury or sweet variation, and we’re yet to meet a kid who doesn’t like hot damper soaked in butter or golden syrup! Don’t forget to brew some hot chocolate and toast marshmallows on the fire too.

Toast some marshmallows at home in a firepit. Image: Suburble

You could also try your hand at smoking food. This adds a whole new flavour to the food you already love, but may be better suited to the more mature palates in the family.

For an easy and fun backyard dinner, try Cam’s Home-Made Baked Beans with Chorizo, as seen on our YouTube channel Camp Cooking with Cam. For more recipes, see here.

Stay Outside and Disconnect

Depending on how strict you want to be, maybe set a rule that inside the house is out of bounds once the camp out starts!

Plus, if you truly want to get back to nature and move the teens away from the screens, you could even temporarily change the Wi-Fi password. Or, keep the phones in the house so that everyone can disconnect and spend time together, as you would when camping.

Relax and unwind without modern technology. Image: Ellie DeLano

Stargaze

This is a great opportunity to see what you can spot in the skies from your house at night. If you already have one, grab your telescope (or some binoculars), download a free map of the sky, and have some fun examining the heavens and all the constellations you can see.

Admire the constellations from your yard. Image: Gary Seronik

Discover Your Own Backyard

Create a mystery to solve or a treasure hunt for your kids utilising the space at the front of the house, around the sides, and in the backyard. Draw out a map, give them a compass, and even have prizes at the end to keep them occupied and entertained. Maybe the winner gets to pick the movie for the night!

Organise outdoor activities for the kids. Image: Amanda Morin

Have a Movie Night!

Relaxing in your own outdoor movie theatre is a real treat for the whole family, especially if you have a home projector setup. If not, you could cheat by bringing the TV out onto your patio. Either way, stream a classic film while you unwind and enjoy the serenity of your own backyard.

Watching a movie is a great way to unwind. Image: Stacey Leasca

Enjoy What You Have

In times of crisis or when things don’t go to plan, all you can do is make the most of what you have and enjoy time with your loved ones. There’s no need for a fancy, over-engineered setup – what matters is the much needed downtime with your family.

For tips on camping with kids beyond the backyard, check out Episode 97 of The Snowys Camping Show. Happy camping, everyone!

Have you ever gone camping in your backyard? Let us know in the comments.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Fun Backyard Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

No matter where you are, there are a few items you should never drive off-road without! Image: MAXTRAX

When 4WDing, no matter where you are or what situation you’re in, there are a few items you should never drive off-road without. Having these basics in your 4WD recovery kit could be the difference between making it out in the vehicle, or leaving the car to find help!

While there’s a huge range of 4WD and off-road recovery equipment on the market, not all of it is needed. Check out the list below for the essential, bare minimum recovery gear to ensure a safe recovery and a successful off-road adventure in your 4WD!

When it comes to your 4WD, it’s best to always be prepared. Image: Dave Leslie.

A Long-Handled Shovel

A long-handled shovel is such a useful and vital tool for the off-road enthusiast. Many a bog can be left behind after some solid digging and packing with sticks (and leaves, if you can get them)! The long handle makes life a little easier by providing more leverage while digging. It also allows a longer reach beneath the vehicle to where the diffs are.

Jack and Base Plate, or Recovery Boards

Jack and base plates are not only useful for changing a tyre, but also enable you to lift the vehicle out of a bog hole. This can sometimes make all the difference! If you have one or two wheels buried deep in holes, you may be able to jack up the vehicle, lift the wheel out of the hole, and pack sticks, leaves, sand, rocks, or dirt into the hole for the vehicle to sit on – and hopefully gain some traction.

A base plate is a must. It stops the jack from sinking into the mud or sand, and provides a good, solid, and level jacking surface. This makes the whole process much safer.

Recovery tracks blend slick with quick, for a lightweight but efficient off-grid recovery! Often featuring pinhole points for secure mounting and a  double-ramp design for efficient manoeuvring beneath your tyres, their rugged teeth interlock with your tyre tread fast and effectively to aid in releasing your vehicle from its stagnant state. Some also include a shovel at either end to further aid recovery – an all-inclusive solution to getting unstuck!

Recovery tracks blend slick with quick, for a lightweight but efficient off-grid recovery. Image: MAXTRAX

Snatch Straps

If you simply can’t drive the vehicle out under its own power, you may need some assistance to be pulled out of a bog by another! Even if you’re travelling on your own, another vehicle may come past – so have your snatch strap ready!

By connecting a snatch strap to the rated recover points of both vehicles, you can pull the bogged vehicle forwards or backwards towards solid ground. Snatch straps act as large rubber bands, and can sling shot the bogged vehicle out of the bog. This can be a dangerous task, so be very careful and ensure all spectators stand well clear.

Air Compressor

Many situations can be overcome or avoided altogether with the right tyre pressures. Lowering your tyre pressure will greatly increase your grip in all situations, including sand, mud, dirt, and rocks. By lowering your tyre pressures, you increase the amount of tyre contact with the ground, thus improving your grip. For more info on tyre pressures, head here. 

The last things you want is for your vehicle to be caught in the mud! Image: Geordie Wright

UHF Radio

All 4WD vehicles should be fitted with a good quality UHF radio and antenna. If all attempts to rescue your vehicle from a bog fail, you can call for help on the radio!

To maximise your call for help, it’s always a good idea to check what station the repeater towers are on in the area you are travelling. When you’re not using your UHF to transmit, you can put it on ‘Scan’; this will allow you to pick up any talk on any station within range. This could be your last chance before strapping on your boots and heading for help!

Before you go…

Most importantly, before any trip, let someone know where you are going and when you are due back. The more details you leave with friends, family, police, or local ranger, the better chance you have of help coming to your aid.

Secondly, stay with your vehicle for as long as you can. If you need to leave your vehicle, make sure you have adequate equipment to walk with, and take plenty of water. Leave a note in the vehicle explaining your situation, and exactly where you are heading.

Now get out there, have fun – but above all, stay safe!

Get out there, have fun – but above all, stay safe! Image: MAXTRAX

The post 5 Must-Haves for Your 4WD Recovery Kit appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Keeping yourself dry when hiking in the rain is one thing; just don a pair of waterproof pants and a jacket, and you’ll be pretty comfortable. But what about all the precious gear in your backpack just begging to get wet? Yep – I’m talking your down sleeping bag, charged iPad, that pita bread, those dry clothes?

In this blog, I’ll share 5 easy ways to keep both your backpack and the hiking gear inside safe and dry, hike after hike!

1. Use a Rain Cover

Most hiking backpacks include a rain cover, usually stowed in a small pocket at the bottom of the pack. It unfurls and covers the entire pack, cinched in by elastic around the harness. While rain covers won’t keep all the water out, they’re a handy first line of defense.

The downside of rain covers is that they create a little more difficulty in accessing gear in your pack. As they’re made of a lightweight material, they can also get snagged on foliage and tear easily. If your rucksack didn’t come with a rain cover, you can buy one separately.

“Yep, that’ll keep it dry” says Kym. Most hiking and travel backpacks come with a built-in rain cover that tucks away neatly into the base of the bag. 

2. Line Your Pack

Lining your pack with a heavy duty plastic bag or liner is a more reliable way to keep your gear dry. Even if your pack gets soaked – it’s the stuff inside that matters! I tend not to use a rain cover – but at a minimum, even if no rain is forecasted, I line my pack with a strong plastic bag.

The trick is to choose a liner that is much larger than your rucksack. For example, if your pack is 65L, use a 100L plastic bag. That way, you can push it into the corners of your pack and maximise space. Plus, you’ll have plenty of bag left to roll shut.

Always choose a pack liner that’s a fair bit bigger than the pack. That way you’ll have plenty of the bag to roll up and tuck snugly down the side, to ensure a nice watertight seal. 

3. Pack Gear into Dry Bags

If you have expensive electronic gadgets, it’s a good idea to go the extra mile and stow them in quality dry bags (perhaps a bit overkill for your socks and jocks).

Other benefits of dry bags is that they allow you to organise and even colour-code your pack. For example: blue for cooking gear, and red for clothes. Should your rain cover or liner bag fail you too, you have an extra line of defense – even if it is just protecting the important stuff!

I carry gear like my first aid kit, headlamp, lighter, battery pack, and a notepad and pen in a small 2L lightweight dry sack. These are items that I really don’t want to get wet – so it’s worth it!

4. Go Crazy with Ziploc Bags

I’ll admit it, I’m a little obsessed with Ziploc bags. I use them for everything, and love that they come in all different shapes and sizes. They do pretty much everything a dry sack does, but are far less expensive.

My first aid kit lives in a small sandwich-sized Ziploc bag, as do my camera accessories. These then go into my dry sack. Books and maps get the Ziploc treatment too. Rubbish goes in a large Ziploc, clipped onto the outside of my pack with a compression strap. My individual serves of oats and nuts, as well as my daily rations, also go into ‘baggies’ (as our American friends call ’em!).

Ziploc bags are especially useful for protecting the gear in your backpack’s lid and hip belt pockets. Best of all, they’re available almost everywhere.

Just a few of the items you can use to keep the stuff in your backpack dry on a drizzly hike.

5. Double-Line Your Sleeping Bag

Get your precious down sleeping bag wet, and it won’t be much use to you. When down gets wet, it clumps and doesn’t provide the ‘loft’ that keeps you warm – so it’s really important to keep it dry!

If there’s anything in your pack that you should make the time to waterproof, it’s your sleeping bag. Perhaps you’re off hiking in nice weather with little chance of rain? It may be reasonable to leave the dry sacks and liner at home, but don’t risk your sleeping bag. I had a water bottle leak all through my pannier on a recent bicycle tour… thankfully, it was only the pannier I kept things like my sleeping mat, tool kit, tent fly, poles, and cookware in!

Below is a nifty video that demonstrates how to make your sleeping bag nice and waterproof:

The post 5 Tips to Waterproof Your Hiking Backpack appeared first on Snowys Blog.

During a shower, you might notice that the water on your rain jacket is no longer ‘beading off’. If you’re seeing where some spots have ‘wet through’, the good news is that it’s not quite ready for the donation bin! You likely just need to revive the DWR (Durable Water Repellence), which is easily done!

Oil or dirt build-up lessens a jacket’s breathability and water repellence, so giving it a good clean should have it back to normal again. That said, before you chuck it in the washing machine with this week’s dirty clothes, ensure you know how to give your garment the proper care it requires.

This blog outlines the steps for reviving your waterproof jacket. To ‘bead off’, read on!

If you’re hiking in winter, you’ll need to stay dry and warm in your rain jacket. Image: Sea to Summit 

1. Check the Pockets, Loosen the Drawcords, and Zip it Up

From leftover trail mix, to tissues and other bits and pieces that you’d rather weren’t washed in with your jacket – be sure to dig about in your pockets to retrieve them first. Loosen any drawcords on the hood or sleeves, and close all zippers.

2. Prepare Your Washing Machine

Clean out any leftover detergent or laundry powder in the machine tray. This step is important, as conventional detergent can actually be detrimental to your waterproof garment. In some instances, the ingredients actually absorb water instead of repelling it… which isn’t the aim of the game here!

Make sure you use a specialised cleaner for maximum efficiency.

3. Add a Waterproof Textile Wash

Add the amount of specialised Nikwax Tech Wash (or similar product designed to clean Gore-tex, SympaTex, eVENT, Permatex, and other wet weather fabrics), according to the instructions.

4. Set to the Correct Cycle

Set the machine to the cycle and temperature stated on the care label.

5. Air- or Tumble-Dry

…and voila! Your jacket is ready for your next wintry adventure.

Once you’ve washed the jacket, the DWR coating should be rejuvenated. 

More Tips for Hiking in the Rain

1. How Waterproof are Your Shoes?

If your boots are looking a little weather-beaten, test their performance by chucking them under the tap in the sink to ensure the water is still beading off. If they’re not repelling water properly, you can follow our guide to waterproofing and conditioning your hiking boots here.

Check the tread as well, to ensure you still have plenty of grip when hiking on wet ground and rocks.

2. Gaiters

If you’re likely to be wading through creeks and rivers, gaiters will offer additional protection against moisture. It will also shield your shoes and legs from mud, which you’re sure to encounter if hiking in winter.

Gaiters come in handy for keeping off rain and mud. Image: Sea to Summit

3. Lightweight Gear that Keeps the Head and Neck Warm

Once you warm up on the trail, that thick scarf or beanie is going to be too bulky and awkward to keep in your day pack. Save on space and weight by looking into a Buff instead. Wear it as a beanie or as a scarf (plus more) and, thanks to its moisture-wicking material, it dries very quickly if dampened.

4. Layer Your Clothing

Light, warm, and slim fitting layers are best for cold weather hiking, as they’re easy to remove one by one when warm enough on the trail.

Generally, when it comes to thermals, merino wool is going to provide the best performance in cold conditions. This is because it regulates your body temperature well, is naturally odour-resistant, and layers well thanks to its lightweight qualities.

Layer your clothes to keep nice and warm when out and about. Image: Icebreaker

5. Keep a Spare Layer + Pair of Socks in your Daypack

Just in case all else fails, and you get caught out in a freak storm! Wet feet are also (literally) a pain, as the moisture creates friction in your shoes which can cause pretty nasty blisters. For more on blister care and prevention, check out this guide here.

6. Keep Your Phone and Electronics in a Waterproof Case

A waterproof case could also be a dry sack, even if you are storing it inside your daypack. Your pack may be waterproof, but there’s only so much you can do if your phone slips out of your hand or pocket and ends up in a puddle. A ziplock bag is also a cheap and effective option you could use in a pinch – but the downside is that you likely won’t be able to effectively use the screen through the plastic.

Your phone isn’t any use to you wet, so pop it in a waterproof case. Image: Sea to Summit

7. Keep Up the Energy and Fluids

When hiking in the cold, you probably won’t notice dehydration as much as you would in warm conditions – but it’s just as important as ever to stay on top of your fluid intake. Same goes for your energy levels, by fuelling up regularly with snacks.

Monitor your fluid intake, even though you may not feel as thirsty in the cold. Image: Sea to Summit

8. Don’t go Without a Light Source (Even for a Day Hike)

If things don’t go great, and you need to rest for longer or take shelter, a head torch is a must. There is less light during the day in winter, so it’s recommended to have a light source in case you’re delayed in any way. The same goes for carrying basic lightweight survival gear.

What are your tips for keeping dry and safe when hiking in winter?

The post How to Re-Waterproof Your Rain Jacket appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So, the curiosity over what on earth this rating means led you to the internet – and voilà! You’ve landed on this article where we’re going to explain it all for you!

What is a Waterhead Rating?

In simple terms, ‘waterhead’ or ‘hydrostatic head’ is a measure of how waterproof the tent is. To be more precise: a measure of how much water pressure the actual tent fabric can withhold, before it starts to seep through.

Keep in mind that this only refers to the ability of the fabric to resist the penetration of water; it has nothing to do with the quality or durability of the fabric, or whether or not the seams are protected from water penetration. It also does not take tent design into consideration.

The waterhead rating and season rating of a tent should be considered hand in hand. A two-season tent is not designed for heavy rainfall, so it won’t have a high waterhead rating. Three- to four-season tents, on the other hand, are used in a range of weather from warm, sunny climates to cold and wet or tropical conditions. The latter need to boast higher waterproof properties.

Tune into Ep.163of the Snowys Camping Show for a discussion on what makes a fabric waterproof, and waterhead ratings.

How is Waterhead Rating Measured on a Tent?

The fabrics are lab-tested, and there are two types of testing methods. The first uses a device called a Suter Tester, the other involves columns filled with water that bear pressure down on the fabric. Both tests are similar.

The Suter Tester applies pressure to a piece of fabric that’s clamped down into the machine. Once water starts to penetrate the fabric, a psi measurement is taken which can then be translated to mm as the waterhead rating.

The ‘cylinder test’ involves securing a section of the fabric to the bottom of a column. The column is then filled with water, and once the water starts to penetrate the fabric, the height of the water is measured in mm. This provides the waterhead rating of the fabric.

It is important to note that these tests are in a controlled environment, and don’t take into consideration real world forces such as wind-driven rain, the effect of gravity on rain, the pressure applied by an individual standing on the fabric, or – as previously mentioned – the manufacturing considerations, such as design and seam-sealing.

Is a Higher Waterproof Rating Better?

No. Excessive waterproof coatings applied to increase the waterhead rating result in stiffer and heavier fabrics, with lessened tear-strength. Furthermore, a poorly applied coating – although providing a higher rating – can delaminate or crack. These considerations are not factored into the tests mentioned above.

What is DWR treatment?

DWR, or Durable Water Repellant treatment, doesn’t affect the waterhead rating of a fabric. It is a surface treatment that helps shed water from the fabric (a bit like wax for your car). DWR is a handy feature, generally found on good quality tents as it prevents the fabric from ‘wetting out’ or saturating.

Tent Quality and Build Makes a Difference

Seams, zippers, tabs… wherever stitching exists are points of water entry. Good quality tents will have all seams sealed, or at least provide sealant so it can be done post purchase to prevent water penetrating the stitching holes (created during manufacture). Well-designed tents will also protect zippers, with adequately sloped walls to shed water.

What you really want is a waterhead rating guide… right?

0 – 1000mm Waterhead = Water Resistant

This is 2-season tent country. The fabrics in this range will withstand light rain for short periods.

1000 – 1500mm Waterhead = Waterproof

This is the lightweight hiking tent range, and is adequate for lightweight 3-season hiking or compact camping tents.

The general consensus is that 1000mm rating is waterproof, but tent fabrics at the lower end of this range are usually made with a focus on lightweight performance rather than longevity.

1500mm is generally accepted as a good standard for hiking tents, whilst – with proper storage and care – providing a longer usable lifetime.

1500 – 5000mm Waterhead = Very Waterproof

Many family tents come with ratings in this range, but would rarely require it to be as high as this upper limit. It is more of a 4-season requirement, where you may be camped out in wet weather for an extended time.

A 1500mm rating should keep you dry in a rainstorm with 120kph winds, but if you’re camped out in a large family tent in these kinds of conditions a waterhead rating will be the least of your concerns.

The main benefit of tents with a rating in this range is that they are more likely to be better quality fabrics, and will extend the usable lifetime of the tent.

5000mm+ Waterhead = Highly Waterproof

Unless you’re camping for extended periods during a monsoon, you won’t need your tent fly to have a waterhead rating this high.

Tents utilising fabrics with ratings this high are likely to be high quality and made for the purpose of weather protection in extreme conditions.

You generally won’t see waterhead ratings for tents above 10,000mm, as the chemicals in the coating can weaken the fibres which decreases fabric strength.

What About the Rating for a Tent Floor?

The jury is out on this one, and the ratings can vary greatly. A tent floor needs to have a higher rating than the fly on account of the fact that the pressure we humans place on the floor of a tent is far higher than the pressure of rain hitting the fly. A quick look at Wikipedia indicates that an average human male exerts 6psi or about 6000mm of pressure or ground force when standing still. Put all this pressure on one knee and the force is much higher in one spot, lay down and the pressure is far less over a larger area.

For this reason, hiking tents ideally have a 6000mm to 10,000 mm waterhead rating, but many lightweight tents are now coming out with much lower waterheads than this in favour of less weight. It’s all a compromise.

Family tents often have a polyethylene (tarpaulin) or PVC floor, which generally don’t have a waterhead rating. This is because they form a completely waterproof and hard-wearing barrier.

Some Final Advice on Waterhead Ratings

To summarise, and help you choose your new tent – a general rule is that a good quality tent with a 1500–3000mm waterhead rating on the tent fly, along with a 6000mm+ rating on the floor (or one made from durable polyethylene or PVC), is going to keep you sheltered and dry in all but the absolute worst of conditions.

For even more information tune into our chat with Zempire in Ep16 of the Snowys Camping Show

The post Tent Waterhead Ratings: Explained appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Don’t expect to master it on your first go – but with a bit of practice, you’ll get the hang of it, and the reward is a delicious, mouthwatering meal every time.

In this guide, we talk you through the entire camp oven cooking process: from preparing your oven to heating it to the most ideal temperature. We’ll discuss different cooking techniques, how to care for your oven, and much more.

Crank the heat, jostle the coals, and read on to rustle up the good stuff!

Once you get the hang of it, camp oven cooking will open up a new culinary world. Image: Campfire

Preparing Your Camp Oven

Preheat the camp oven on or in the main fire prior to cooking; if you place a cold camp oven on your coals, half the heat will be lost by heating up the oven as opposed to cooking your meal. A tripod is ideal for this task – or, if possible, sit the oven on top of a barbie plate in the flames. Don’t forget to heat the lid too!

When you’re ready to cook, prepare a bed of coals away from the main fire to place the camp oven atop of. If possible, scrape or dig a small hole the size of your oven and line with hot coals. This is not essential, but can be handy – especially if it’s windy.

Of course, by all means, leave the camp oven on your tripod above the flames – but cooking directly on the coals is recommended for both baking and roasting.

Prepare coals to cook your meal in your camp oven. Image: Mick Viller

Managing Environmental Factors

Keep in mind that the outside environment in which you are cooking will influence the temperature of your camp oven. Factors such as humidity, ambient temperature, and wind will all have an affect – and, unlike at home, you’re not able to adjust the heat with a quick turn of a knob!

A helpful tip here is when you’re cooking on a cold or windy day, lower your camp oven by digging a hole that’s just the right depth for the coals to nest in. Try not to open the lid too much, as the wind will blow and lessen the heat.

A cold night will affect your cooking. Image: Ozpig

How to Check the Temperature of Your Camp Oven

Gauging the heat required in relation to the volume of coals needed, and converting it all to traditional oven temperatures, can be tricky at first – but it’s actually quite simple. If you want to check how hot your camp oven is without a thermometre, here’s a super simple way to do so:

Tear off a strip of paper towel or newspaper and pop it inside the hot oven, on the top of a trivet to ensure you can accurately gauge the temperature. Take it out again and compare against the following:

• If the paper is cream or pale yellow, the oven is slow to moderate (180°C)
• If the paper is yellow to light brown in colour, the oven is moderate to hot (200°C)
• If the paper is dark brown, the oven is very hot (230°C)
• If the paper is black and smoking, the oven is too hot (250°C and over)

Converting the Coals Used to Oven Temperature:

Consider the Type of Wood

Bear in mind that different types of wood will burn hotter than others – so even though you should try to minimise the number of times you remove the lid, it is important to check every now and then to ensure it is not burning. As a general guide, check on dampers after 20 minutes and roasts after 30 minutes.

Roasting in a Camp Oven

• Place a well-oiled, seasoned, preheated oven on hot coals and add the meat.
• Cook the meat for 1.5-2.5 hours, depending on the size of the meat.
• Vegetables like potatoes, onions, pumpkin should be added to the oven for the final 45 minutes of cooking.
• Throughout the cooking process, check the temperature of the oven every 30 minutes or so. Add more hot coals if required.

Fill up your campsite with the delicious aroma of a roast. Image: OZtrail

Stewing in a Camp Oven

• The longer the cooking time for stews the more tender the meat will become.
• Cook over a slow to moderate oven for 1-3 hours or longer as required.

Baking in a Camp Oven

• When cooking cakes and slices in trays and cake tins, it is best to put a trivet in the bottom of the camp oven.
• This allows air to flow around inside the camp oven and provide even cooking.

Snowys’ resident camp cook Cam demonstrates how to create some kick-butt camp oven treats on Camp Cooking with Cam:

Caring for Your Camp Oven

It is essential to keep your cast iron camp oven in good condition for your next adventure by knowing how to clean it properly.

When cleaning your camp oven, always use warm water; cold water on a hot camp oven can cause damage. It’s also essential to oil your camp oven after cleaning, to prevent rust from developing. Although most camp ovens are fairly robust and durable, take care and avoid dropping them on hard surfaces. Keep it secure when transporting to and from the campsite by designating a special spot in your kit.

That’s all the trips and tricks we have up our sleeve about cooking in a camp oven! Ben and Lauren dig deeper into camp ovens in Episode 74, 78, and 103 of the Snowys Camping Show:

If you have any hacks for making the perfect meal in your camp oven, we would love to hear from you.

What’s your favourite camp oven recipe? Let us know in the comments!

The post Guide to Cooking in a Camp Oven appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The dates for Fire Danger Season change year to year depending on fuel loads, short-term weather conditions, and the long-term climate in each area. This blog will guide you through the Campfire Season – plus, with the help of a few of our most popular blogs, you can safely enjoy all the cosy-comforts of camping in the cooler months.

Always clear the area around your campfire.

Fire Danger Season Dates

Fire restrictions during the warmer months are in place mostly around the drier states of Australia like SA, VIC, and WA. As a general rule, the dates span from November through to April, give or take a few months.

Other states don’t necessarily adopt a blanket rule around restrictions, but require permits instead. A permit ensures the relevant Emergency Services have a heads-up on why, when, where, and how the burn will take place, and imposes conditions around how it is both lit and maintained.

Follow the links most appropriate to you and your location for more details on current dates and restrictions. This information has been researched in reference to camping and campfires – backyard fires, bonfires, burn-offs, etc. carry their own restrictions. Please seek advice from your local council or authorities before you burn.

QLD

State of Queensland (Queensland Fire & Emergency Services)

• Fire season extends from July through to October, but can extend to February.
• Despite this predominant time period, bushfires can occur at any time.
• These times can vary depending on conditions of bushland, long-term climate, and short-term weather.
• The information found here from the QPWS is a great resource.

ACT

ACT Emergency Services Agency

• Fire season extends from October through to the end of March.
• Recreational fires are allowed with a permit during bushfire season, however not permitted at all during a Total Fire Ban.

NSW

NSW Rural Fire Service

• Fire season extends from October through to the end of March.
• Open fires are only allowed with a permit.

VIC

Country Fire Authority

• Fire season can extend from October through to the end of April or early May.
• Timeframes differ depending on the municipality.
• Permits may be required.

TAS

Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service

• Generally restrictions are placed depending on forecasted weather conditions and outlooks by the BOM.
• Campers need to check to current ‘alerts’ information on relevant areas to know if campfires are permitted.

SA

South Australian Country Fire Service

• Fire season extends from November through to the end of April.
• Fire season in the North East and North West Pastoral start in October and run through March.
• Specific timeframes differ depending on the district.

WA

Department of Fire & Emergency Services

• Northern WA – fire season extends from June through to October
• Southern WA – fire season extends from October through to April

NT

NT Police, Fire & Emergency Services

• Permits are required year-round in Emergency Response Areas.
• Policy in other fire districts is governed by local and seasonal conditions.
• Burning is not allowed in municipal areas (e.g. Darwin and Palmerston).

Fire Safety and Preparation for Camping

Fires can spark at a moment’s notice regardless of the season – so no matter where you are or what you’re doing, be fire-ready and fire-safe. Following some basic guidelines with common sense is both vital and potentially life-saving.

This article focuses on how we as campers can be responsible with our campfires, and how we can stay safe heading into the bush.

 

Camp Oven Cooking Temperature Guide & Techniques

The beautiful flavours and textures you get from cooking over a campfire are like no other, and even the simplest meals come alive when infused with that special camp oven flair.

In this guide, we talk you through the whole camp oven cooking process – from preparing your oven, to heating it to the best temperature. We then discuss the different cooking techniques, how to care for your oven, and a whole lot more.

 

Guide to Seasoning Your Camp Oven

Seasoning your camp oven gets it ready for non-stick cooking so that your food doesn’t taste like metal, or whatever the oven has come packed in. Seasoning also prevents rusting, so that you can use your camp oven for years, decades, or even a lifetime!

Whether your camp oven is new or needs a little TLC, this article offers a step-by-step technique that can be used on any cast iron or steel cookware – camp oven, frypan, jaffle iron, or skillet.

Image: David Laslett

 

How to Make Damper in a Camp Oven

There are loads of damper recipes online. Most of them require you to use lots of ingredients and work the dough for a few minutes.

When you work damper too much it pushes all of the air out and makes the dough dense. We have lost count of how many times we have prepared this version of damper and no matter how many times we cook this recipe it always turns out perfect – crunchy on the outside, and fluffy on the inside.

Image: Mick Viller

 

Tips for Campfire Cooking at Home

That autumn chill is starting to kick in and it’s time to retire your thongs and shorts in favour of the ugg boots and trackies. Depending on where you live, you don’t have to save campfire cooking only for when you’re sleeping in a tent. Why not bring those tastes, smells and sounds into your backyard and stay cosy while making the most of being at home.

This article talks you through some campfire options from portable pits to specialised cookers. There are also details on cookware and charcoal vs wood, plus a couple of meal ideas just to whet your appetite.

 

Cook Up a Feast this Campfire Season

Whether is a new camp oven you’re after or a jaffle iron, skillet, bedourie, or grill, this page has them all plus loads more!

We’ve got cast iron and spun steel, plus collapsible firepits and Ozpig cooker/heaters with accessories galore. We live and breathe outdoor adventures – hiking, camping, 4WDing and love sharing our campfire cooking tips. Join in on the conversation with our Snowys Camping Show podcast Facebook group for all the chitchat on Comparing Cast Iron & Spun Steel Camp Ovens. Or, if you need any help to decide what gear suits you and your campfire setup best, give us a call on 1300 914 007 or shoot us a message, service@snowys.com.au

 

Stay warm, keep safe and eat well, folks!

What adventures are you planning for this campfire season?

The post Guide to Campfire Season appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Read on for tips on how to be the best camper at the site.

Luckily, there still are some places where you can get away from it all – but a trip to many of the well-known destinations is certainly not one of them. These days, camping often means being in close proximity to others. Some basic courtesies can help make the experience a positive one. This is more so within the crowded campgrounds of the Kimberley in the dry, and those highly sought-after spots along the coast during the summer months.

So – after 40 years of camping experience and a recent three-month trip up the centre and through the Kimberley – here are some of my thoughts to help ensure a happy and safe camping trip!

Nowadays, you’ll likely be sharing with others at popular camping sites. 

Keep the music down.

I like Eric Clapton. Do you? Ah… no, you prefer the 4th Aria in the 5th movement of Handel’s second symphony. I know this because I could hear it until 11:30 pm last night.

No matter how brilliant your music collection is, the rest of the campground does not need to hear it. Handel sounds great when you are travelling along in the vehicle – but, like other things, it is best done in the privacy of your own home. If you must bring the iPod, use the headphones. Remember: in the calm of the night, if your group can hear it, so can many around you.

Music disturbs other campers and the local wildlife.

Only Use Generators During the Day

Happy hour generally starts at around 4-5pm, depending on just how happy you want to be. Just as the top flips, the cork pops, and that beautiful ‘glug’ sounds forth, a steady hum invades the brain.

Hang on, I haven’t started drinking yet. What’s that invasive noise? Before long, a symphony of internal combustion dis-harmony rings through the air…

Generators are fast becoming part of the kit for many campers. However, despite how you-beaut the technology, the sound carries – especially at night. Many campgrounds now have a generator area away from other campers. It’s there for a reason. If this isn’t feasible for you, at least ensure your generator is turned off by early evening. If batteries require charging, do it during the day when the sound is better disguised by other noises and people are more likely to be out and about. Better still, embrace the solar revolution and charge for free!

Solar power is a more considerate way to get power off the grid. 

Dispose of Waste Properly and Safely

Now – it is time to be a little indelicate, as the discussion needs to turn to wee and poo.

As camping areas become more and more crowded, ridding ourselves of what’s become of breakfast, lunch, and dinner is becoming increasingly difficult. Luckily, many National Park and commercial campgrounds now have reasonable toilet facilities. However, many don’t – nor do many of the free camps becoming more and more popular. Many campgrounds are now so popular that even digging a hole is not possible.

There’s nothing worse than discovering used toilet paper in the bush.

If digging a hole is possible, ensure paper is burned (keeping in mind fire restrictions) before back-filling. Animals are attracted to smells and will often dig up toilet holes. This results in toilet paper floating freely around the area.

Ensure children are well supervised in the toileting process. Under no circumstances should you just go behind a bush and leave used toilet paper behind. This is nothing short of revolting for those that follow! Zip-lock bags are a cheap, effective, and simple way of taking used toilet paper to be disposed of properly. For more on leaving no trace, check out this blog.

Snowys have a variety of toileting solutions, from seats with bags to portable chemical toilets. These are now cheap, clean, and easy to use. The number of dump points is increasing all the time, with a deep hole always an option. However, never empty these into septic systems, as the chemicals destroy the system. Tampons and pads are also sure to block any flushing toilet system.

For more on this, tune into Ben and Lauren’s discussion on the Snowys Camping Show:

Campfires

As happy hour rolls on and darkness closes in, another basic human urge takes hold – the need for fire. Is there anything more mesmerising and calming than the flickering of the flame and the glow of coals?

After the raucous discussions of toilet techniques, it’s time to eat and settle down for some calmer chat around the fire – with a cuppa, a warming port, or other beverage of choice.

But first: achieving this most basic of needs.

As camp spots become more popular, firewood is at a premium. Collecting any near popular spots is near impossible. To enjoy the ambience of a fire, bring your own wood or use heat beads in a small brazier. It is amazing how little wood is needed to keep a handful of people warm and enjoying that beverage of choice.

Use existing fireplaces, too. It never ceases to amaze me upon arrival to a nice spot the number of fireplaces dotted around even a fairly small area. This significantly reduces the areas to pitch a tent, or set up a table and chairs.

Personally, I choose to cook using my gas stove and leave my firewood for the ambience of the evening.

Don’t char more of the land then what you need, use an established fire pit. 

Keep the Kids in Check

I was lucky enough to go camping as a kid, and I took my own kids camping from an early age. I remember being able to run free around the bush because our group was the only one there and I wasn’t impinging on anyone.

This is now a rare privilege, with most people having to share their camping experience with others around them. Children should be going camping, but safely and with respect for other campers. This means no screaming, shouting, or running through others campsites – especially in the evening. That refers to both adults and children, actually.

Supervise the kids properly when out camping. 

Pick Up Your Rubbish

Rubbish, rubbish, everywhere – but not a bin in sight.

Like other human waste, general rubbish is a fact of life. Even though we don’t get to drive the big truck with the massive compactor, we all need to take on the role of refuse-engineer when camping.

Some campsites do have bins, but these are often emptied irregularly – especially in more remote areas. It does not take a degree in physics and meteorology to know that wind will blow rubbish out of an overflowing bin and gravity will ensure it litters the area around it.

If there is no bin, or if it is full, take it with you to dispose of it properly. Waste paper and cardboard can be kept separately and used to light the fire, if required.

If the bin is full, take your rubbish out with you. 

Camping is one of life’s greatest pleasures – and it can remain that way, even in a more crowded world. It just takes a little planning, thoughtful approach to the environment, and consideration to those around us. If we all do our bit to ensure that the beautiful areas of our country remain open to us, we will all be happy campers!

Camping is one of life’s greatest pleasures. 

What do you do to be a considerate camper? Let us know in the comments. 

The post Camping Etiquette: Being the Best Camper appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Let’s revisit the Leave No Trace principles. Image: Sputnik

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

It seems like a no-brainer, but next time you decide to head out for a spontaneous weekend away, take a few extra steps to ensure you’ve done some planning. This includes researching the place you’re visiting, in case there are special rules or requirements that you need to follow.

Always take everything you could need in an emergency. This includes:

• A PLB
• A lightweight emergency shelter
• A first aid kit, emergency blanket, and
• An extra day’s worth of food.

This way, you won’t have to resort to improvising or making decisions that have the potential to negatively impact the local environment (such as building a makeshift shelter or lighting a campfire in a restricted area).

Sand is considered a suitable surface to pitch your tent on. Photo: Black Wolf

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

Travelling and camping on resistant, long-lasting surfaces is an important one. If you’re camping in an area that has designated campsites or platforms, make sure you use those. When hiking or exploring, always walk along the designated tracks to keep activity to one area.

According to Leave No Trace Australia, soft plants, muddy sites, and fragile soil layers are non-durable surfaces and should be avoided. Instead, rock outcrops, sand, gravel, dry grasses, snow, and tent platforms are considered durable to travel across and camp on.

Only use biodegradable soap and strain and scatter dishwater when you’re done with it. Photo: Sea to Summit

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

Everything you bring with you must be taken out. Don’t burn or bury rubbish, as this will still attract animals and put them at risk – not to mention the fumes a fire will emit, and the greater risk of bushfires that will create. Take all your rubbish and waste out with you in plastic or leak-proof trash bags. Alternatively, use a spare wheel bin bag – this will keep native wildlife out of your rubbish as well as the stink out of your car.

Ensure that you dispose of human waste properly too. If you’re using a portable camp toilet, only rid yourself of waste at a designated waste dump point. Otherwise, pack a trowel with you for bathroom visits. To go to the toilet in the bush responsibly, dig a hole away roughly 20cm deep away from water sources, campsites, and trails – then cover and disguise properly. You shouldn’t bury toilet paper, so take it with you in a Ziploc bag until you can dispose of it properly.

Hot water works really well for washing dishes – but if you must use detergent or soap, only choose the biodegradable kind. After you’ve finished washing your dishes, strain the water to catch food scraps and scatter it at least 50m from water sources.

If you see rubbish when you’re out and about, be a good citizen and take it with you. It’s not nice to clean up after others, but it’s better than leaving it for an animal to find.

Pack it in, pack it out – simple! Photo: Sea to Summit. 

4. Leave What You Find

Despite that last line…

When you’re out exploring or hiking a trail, there are so many incredible things to discover along the way. While it can be tempting to pick up a perfectly shaped pebble, a feather from a rare bird, or a wildflower in bloom – if you remove it from its environment, it robs the next person of the experience of discovering it too. If you’re going to be travelling across an area where you know there is a site of cultural or spiritual significance, it is still possible to absorb it all without touching or interfering in any way.

Another example of leaving what you find is cleaning your boots and tyres thoroughly. This avoids introducing anything new into a fragile environment.

There are so many incredible things to discover – just make sure you leave them be. Photo: Eve Woods. 

5. Minimise Campfire Impacts

Campfires are a predominant aspect of camping. They add warmth, atmosphere, and a means of cooking delicious meals. However, they pose a risk for the habitats of local wildlife, char and damage the landscape, and – of course – can greater the chance of bushfires.

While a camping stove and lantern don’t necessarily provide the same atmosphere of a campfire, they’ll help in leaving as little impact as possible. Only light a fire in a permitted area and, if you do so, use an established fire ring or pit. By doing so, you’re keeping the damage to the areas that are arranged for that purpose.

In regards to fuel for your fire, use eco-friendly timber options such as compacted wood briquettes to prevent depleting and destroying native habitat. For more on campfire etiquette, head here.

Keep the impact from your campfire to a minimum. Photo: Darche

6. Respect Wildlife

If you happen to spot native animals out in the wild, it can be quite special to observe them. That said, keep a respectful distance so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours, or frighten them from their own habitat.

It is essential to keep your food secure and not intentionally feed local animals. Foraging for and eating ‘human’ food can be damaging to both the health and behaviour of native species. This circles back to an earlier-mentioned principle: ensuring you leave everything as you find it. Take all rubbish and food with you to both limit its risk to animals and to avoid an unsightly mess!

If you’re keen to observe the animals, bring a pair of binoculars to watch from a distance without disturbing their normal way of life.

While it is exciting to spot an animal in the wild, keep a respectful distance. Photo: Coleman

7. Be Considerate of Your Hosts and Other Visitors

Whilst we all want to feel a sense of freedom and escape when we head outdoors, we’ll always be sharing our space with other people and animals on our travels. With this in mind, here are some things to think about to remain considerate.

• If you bring your pets along, keep their behaviour under control so they don’t disturb others. This includes averting them from local wildlife, and preventing them from foraging and digging.
• Consider how bright lighting at night may affect someone else’s experience – not to mention how it disturbs the nocturnal animals pre-existing in the area.
• Generators can make a lot of noise, so try not to run them at night or in the early hours of the morning. The same goes for loud music; this will keep others from sleeping or enjoying their night.

Keep a respectful distance from wildlife so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours (shouldn’t be hard to do when it comes to snakes!). Image: Sputnik

So, there you have it!

The 7 Leave No Trace principles. We all want to continue camping, hiking, and exploring what this great country has to offer for many years to come. A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in as pristine condition as possible.

Happy adventuring, everyone!

A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in pristine condition. Image: Sputnik

What else do you do to ensure that you’re minimising your impact on your outdoor adventures? Let us know in the comments. 

The post The 7 Leave No Trace Principles appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Just as there is more than one way to cook an egg, there is more than one way to have a bush shower. From a quick and simple rinse for the sake of maintaining hygiene, to an invigorating wash – warm water against your skin counteracting the cool, crisp air while listening to sounds of wildlife surrounding your campsite is an experience you just don’t get at home!

So – how do you set up a portable camping shower, and what do you need to do so? To start you off on the right track, we’ve established three different setup categories to meet everyone’s requirements.

Feel free to jump ahead to your preferred setup:

• The Basic: ‘Weight is important, and I just need to maintain hygiene.’
• The Affordable: ‘As long as I can have a warm shower, I’m happy.’
• The Luxurious: ‘I don’t care what it costs, I will not go without a steaming hot shower!’

From basic to luxury, there are a few showering options when off the grid. Image: Sea to Summit

The Basic

Keeping Clean at the Minimum Weight

For hiking and trekking adventures, the weight of your gear is important – but so is hygiene. If every gram counts on your next adventure, try the below wash options.

1. The Waterless Wash

This is as simple as it gets, and also a good option for chilly nights when you don’t want to get cold and wet. All you need is some baby wipes and sanitising gel. Use the baby wipes to clean your body, ensuring you reach all the stinky parts, and the hand sanitiser on your… well, hands.

It’s a good idea to use wipes that are biodegradable, like those from Sea to Summit.

Wilderness Wipes are the simplest way to shower outdoors. Image: Sea to Summit

2. Shower in a Cup

This is something an old friend of mine learned from his Army Reserve days, used when water was is in short supply on long treks. The idea is that you can ration your shower to one cup of water, or about 250mL.

Fill your cup, then grab a lightweight towel and some biodegradable soap. Scrub away until your water ration runs out.

It goes without saying that this is by no means a luxurious shower.

Showering in a cup isn’t glamorous, but it works when water supplies are low. Image: Sea to Summit

3. Improvised Wash Basin

This is my preferred washing method on long hikes, or camping trips where there are no showers but ready access to water. It’s a little like the cup method described above, only you can use enough water to fill a dry bag rolled down to create a basin. This way you have enough water to wash your body, hair, and even some clothes. You can even heat up the water beforehand.

Note that this method is best at remote campsites where no-one else is around to catch a glimpse of you au-naturel. For more on lightweight hygiene, head here.

On longer hikes, a dry bag can be used as a basin. 

The Affordable

These camping showers don’t do everything for you, but still provide a good shower with some improvisation. If you want a warm shower, you’ll need to be able to heat up the water first and 12V power may be required.

If you don’t want to do it all handheld, you’ll also need to get creative for the setup of the shower – but with a little effort, you can set up a portable camping shower anywhere at a reasonable price!

1. Canvas Bucket Shower

This is the classic outback shower: a canvas bucket with a shower rose at the bottom, filled with hot water and hoisted into a tree. Low technology, so little to go wrong – but these units are too heavy for use inside a shower tent, so you’ll need to be comfortable showering in the open. Or, improvise some sort of screen.

You will need a way of heating up the water first – and don’t forget a length of rope to suspend your shower.

Solar showers are great – simple, but the water is warm for extra comfort. Image: Aaron Schubert

2. Solar Showers

Another simple shower setup. These are black or dark-coloured bags with a small shower rose and hose attached. The dark colour absorbs the heat and, once filled with water and left in the full sun for around three hours (the bonnet of your car is a good spot), you’ll have a bag full of warm water to shower with. Then, you can hoist these into a tree just as you would the canvas bucket – and your shower is ready to go!

Solar showers are also too heavy for shower tents to support, so you’ll need to suspend it somewhere and improvise a screen if required. The other drawback is that the nozzle usually needs to be handheld (they don’t always hang at the best angle).

3. 12V Electric Shower

12V showers are generally cheap, light, and easy to use with flexible hoses and a 12V pump that you stick in a bucket of warm (or cold) water. They even provide good pressure if the bucket height is close to that of the shower head. The shower rose is light enough to suspend in a shower tent or on any structure, such as a roof rack or pole. It can also be used handheld.

You will still need to warm up the water first, and they can require a little more maintenance to ensure a long life. Giving the pump a spray with CRC or WD40 is an easy way to help with this.

12V showers are lightweight and affordable. Image: Companion

The Luxurious

Just the full outback spa and bush shower package, please!

If a steaming hot shower is something you can’t (or won’t) do without at the end of the day, I’d recommend an all-in-one portable hot water and shower systems for your camping adventures. With these units, you can set temperature and flow rate – and with the addition of a few accessories, create your own spa in the serenity of your campsite.

You will need both gas to heat the water and 12V power for the pump, as well as a few batteries for the internal electrics. That said, the time spent packing extra gear will be long forgotten once you’re standing under a piping hot stream of water in your campsite.

There are a few different units to choose from; let’s start from the top shelf:

If you want luxury, look no further than a hot water system. Image: Smarttek

1. Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water System

This is the ‘ducks nuts’ of portable hot water systems.

The Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water System is great for basecamp-style setups (i.e. you’re staying in the same location for a while). They are simple to use and easy to set up, especially with the optional quick connect fittings; the best outdoor shower for those not willing to skimp on comfort when camping!

This portable hot water unit will heat to over 50 degrees, capable of flow rates up to 6 litres per minute and can draw water from 10+ metres away, depending on your setup. To create a truly relaxing experience, there is a host of optional accessories available – including a fully equipped ensuite shower tent.

If the availability of a hot shower is the only thing stopping a non-camper from going bush, the Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water Shower will more than likely convert them!

When you’re staying somewhere a while, a smart hot water system is ideal. Image: Smarttek

2. Companion AquaHeat Lithium Gas Shower

Companion have brought the best of new-age technology to their products with their Lithium gas shower.

With an integrated and rechargeable Lithium battery, you can get between 60-120 minutes of run time off a full charge. Its 2L per minute flow rate and the built-in gas regulator with BOM connection provides the ability to use either a propane cartridge or a ULPG cylinder (with a separately available hose), while quick-connect fittings make for a hassle-free attachment of the 1.5m pump hose and 2.5m shower hose! The AquaHeat also allows you to recharge while showering by operating directly from the included 2V DC lead and connector, or a separately available AC adaptor.

Enjoy hot water in seconds – anywhere, anytime!

Enjoy more privacy with a shower tent. Image: Darche

3. Shower Tent

It can be quite enlivening to shower butt-naked in a remote campsite with only your loved ones in sight, but to do so in an area that is also occupied by other campers is generally considered inappropriate.

If the latter is what you are likely to encounter, you’ll need a shower tent. The pop-up versions of these are easy to set up and provide privacy for both your shower and portable toilet, but aren’t sturdy enough to suspend a shower rose from.

For the complete shower setup, consider a shower tent with a rigid frame and guy ropes for a reliable place to mount the shower rose. Most of these will also have a waterproof area to hang your clothes and towel, and often include pockets for your toiletries. There are even two-room versions, so you can create a complete campsite ensuite.

What About a Camp Shower Base?

Most good shower tents will come with some sort of floor, usually of tarp or mesh, which work just fine. As an upgrade, we recommend using foam matting as your camp shower base. This is nicer to stand on and creates a barrier between you and the soggy ground, meanwhile allowing the water to run off and away.

There are some more luxe portable shower trays available that catch the water and channel it away via a waste hose, but we don’t carry these at Snowys. They tend to get a little bulky and difficult to transport for camping.

Biodegradable soaps and washes aid in leaving no trace. Image: Sea to Summit

Don’t Forget to Leave No Trace

Aim to leave nothing but footprints when you leave your campsite. Carry out your rubbish and have some consideration around the items you need to leave at the campsite, such as wastewater. It is important that we use biodegradable soaps and washes when we are showering in the bush, as this minimises our impact on the environment.

We also need to consider where the runoff from our camp shower ends up. Always set up your shower at least 100m from both wet and dry river and creek beds – the same rule applies to camp toilets.

Check out our range of environmentally friendly washing and cleaning solutions here.

Ben and Lauren also discuss camping and outdoor shower options on the Snowys Camping Show:

What’s your favourite method for staying clean on an outdoor adventure? 

The post How to Set Up the Perfect Camp Shower appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Every year, we promise ourselves we’ll be super organised; there’s nothing worse than taking off on an adventure and realising you’ve left something at home. You know, like a child.

Kidding.

More often than not though, it’s ultimately a mad rush to stock up on groceries and grab those extra bits and bobs before heading off.

So – buckle up for our choc-a-block guide to a fun, family-friendly, four-day Easter camping weekend! In this blog, we address the planning process, suggestions for the packlist, campsite cooking, and how to keep the keep the kids under wraps (when the chocolate no longer is)!

A whole four days away is just what everyone needs. Image: Coleman

Planning

Plan in Advance and Shop Early

Cleaning out the swags, the stove, the Esky, the car… some of these jobs can be done a couple of weeks in advance, while some must be done either the day of departure or just prior.

For example, checking the car should be done just ahead of leaving. What’s involved? Just the basic stuff: oil, water, tyres, belts, and spares. For more on how to prepare your 4WD or caravan ahead of lkjm,a road trip, check out this blog!

Remember too, it’s going to be madness at the shops – so there’s no harm in ticking off your shopping list early. If you’re taking meat, this also allows time to freeze it properly before packing into your Esky or fridge. To preserve your ice, pack some frozen food – and for more on that, check out ‘8 Tips for Keeping Ice Longer in Your Icebox’.

Know the Route

If you know where you’re going, you probably won’t bother… but if you’re going somewhere new, remember to pack a map or road atlas. That said, even if you do know where you’re going, it’s a good idea to have one in the case of last-minute, unforeseen detours.

It’s a good idea to have a map on hand in the case of unexpected detours. Credit: Darche

Spring Clean Your Repair Kit – and Your Gear!

An Easter camping trip is a great time to go through your repair and toolkit, and give it a spring clean. While you’re at it, check if you’ve used the last of your cable ties, or if your spare poles are the right size for your new tent. For the basics on building a toolkit, check out this blog – and for guidance on repairing your gear, this blog is handy too.

This way, if something crucial is missing, you’ve got plenty of time to source spares or replacements in advance, which takes the pressure off the day before your trip. Remember to check your first aid kit too!

Then there’s your gear. No one wants to crawl into their sleeping bag after a long day only to find it smells a little funky… or filled with mysterious, crummy, crunchy bits. Even worse, maybe you didn’t wipe the inside of your icebox or 12V fridge after your last trip, so are greeted with the stench of decay and some gnarly-looking mould?! It’s important to clean everything both before and after a trip. This will ensure your gear remains in good condition for many more uses and makes for easy preparation ahead of your next trip. For more on gear storage between getaways, Ben and Lauren discussed the topic on the Snowys Camping Show:

Dirty gear is not a great way to start a trip, so give it a wipe down before you go. Image: Erin Wescombe

Switch Up Your Camping Menu

Instead of your standard menu, attempt some fun Easter-themed recipes. Damper is a classic camping treat, but in the spirit of the season simply add cocoa powder and chocolate chips – or, if you’re overflowing with Easter eggs, break them up and throw them in for fun too. Plus, take it to the next level and cook hot cross buns in your camp oven too!

Don’t forget to stock up your fridge or Esky with some fresh or pre-cooked seafood too. If you’re camping by the coast, support local by purchasing there – or even catch the fish of the day yourself!

For more quick and easy camp meal suggestions, keep reading…

Homemade hot cross buns in the camp oven. Image: Mick the Camp Oven Cook

Instead of your standard menu, attempt some fun Easter-themed recipes. Image: OZtrail

Take Care with New Purchases

Or Head Instore for Last-Minute Essentials

Buying a big-ticket item such as a tent, swag, or gazebo at the last minute can often have you rushing your normal methodical, decision-making process. If it’s time for an upgrade, research thoroughly before buying. If you’re unsure of anything, give us a call or send us an email for advice. Check out this year’s Best Family Camping Tents or even our Guide to Choosing the Right Gazebo if you’re curious as to which styles and models others are buying. Considering an air tent? Here are 5 reasons why we support that decision.

Also, if ordering online, be aware of delivery delays. Easter is the busiest camping weekend of the year, so you might find you need to allow extra time.

Delivery times on family tents are longer due to their size and weight. Image: Oztent

Prepare Your Sleeping Mat

If you forgot to unroll your self-inflating mat before storing after your last trip away, or you typically don’t have the space – don’t forget to open it up at least a couple of days before your trip (depending on how long it’s been rolled up). Check your mat for any leaks and repair damaged areas ahead of time. This guide shows just how to do the job!

The best way to store your self-inflating mat is to keep it inflated with the valves open, before deflating and rolling up when it’s time to hit the road. Shopping around for a new mat? Check out this year’s best-sellers for camping here, or lighter-weight versions here.

Your self-inflating mat should come out of hibernation to ensure it’s ready to go for your trip. Image: Sea to Summit

Packing

Eggs-tra Pegs and Guy Ropes!

If the forecast is windy, extra guy ropes and pegs are always an excellent idea. Not sure what pegs you’ll need? Here’s a helpful article – but remember, if the breeze picks up, it is key to further stabilise your poles by adding guy ropes on either side to counteract any movement.

Ben and Lauren also talk tent pegs on the Snowys Camping Show:

It is wise to bring along extra pegs and guy ropes. Image: Explore Planet Earth

Sea to Summit Cookware

The Sea to Summit Passage Insulated Mug won’t only serve you well at the campsite, but keep your cuppa hot (or cold!) for longer – ideal for everyday use, especially for the coffee-loving commuter.

(On that note, check out the top 10 best-selling coffee makers for the campsite here.)

Then there’s the Passage Cutlery Set. Ever had ten-thousand spoons, when all you need is a knife?

Picture this. You’ve driven all day to the perfect camp spot. You’ve set up the tent, inflated the sleeping mat, unfurled the sleeping bags. All you want is a beer and to enjoy a meal. But WHERE ARE THE FORKS?! The Passage Cutlery Set from Sea to Summit consists of a tough, EU food-grade, glass-reinforced polypropylene fork, spoon, and knife that nest and clip together for easy use and compact storage. Genius.

Check out the full Sea to Summit cookware range here, including their new line of Detour, Passage, and Frontier. Boasting sleek, non-stick, abrasion resistant constructions that are as robust as they are lightweight, this collection consists of the ultimate cooking components to keep in the kitchen kit this camping trip.

Sea to Summit cookware are perfect lightweight options for outdoor escapes. Credit: Sea to Summit

Collapsible too, the Sea to Summit Frontier cookware range are the ultimate kitchen components to pack with the kit. Image: Sea to Summit

Multi-Tools

The Victorinox’s Deluxe Tinker is probably one of the most useful in their range. It boasts everything from a large and small blade, to scissors, pliers, a toothpick, and tweezers. With stacks of other uses, and possibly even life-saving tools and features in between – look and feel the part of a well-equipped camper with the Victorinox Deluxe Tinker.

Zippo also offer many compact and lightweight means to efficiently light a campfire – including flints, tinder, a mag strike, and a fire torch.

Lights and Lanterns

Lanterns have come a long way since the traditional miner’s style lamp you can imagine hooked to the side of a dusty mine. Smell that kerosine?

Cue the Darche Mini Multi LED Camp Light 3 Pack. Boasting a rechargeable 1200mAh lithium battery, benefit from four light modes to accommodate whatever illumination you require. A magnetic stand allows for convenient mounting, while an IPX5 rating resists the wetter weather . Packed compactly with a USB C charging cable into a convenient carry case too, the included carbiners also keep your lit bit of camp kit tidy and together! The better beacons worth packing with the camp kit. Watch the review below!

Then there are the Hardkorr U-Lite Dual Colour LED Lanterns – one of our best-selling lighting options, boasting impressive versatility. From the toolshed to the tent, enjoy more brightness and an inbuilt rechargeable lithium battery for convenience. Packing a blinding punch with an output of 155 lumens, light up the site for up to 6 hours on high and over 90 hours on low! Alternate effortlessly between high, medium, and low white light, while the orange hue option keeps the bugs at bay. 

Fairy lights are another way of adding a sense of magic and ambiance to the campsite – like the Luci Solar String Lights by MPOWERD.

Smaller string lights can add a sense of magic to your camp setup. Image: Earthwell

Easy-to-Cook Camp Meals

Some people out there take camp cooking seriously. If you don’t, but still want fast, tasty, and nutritious food – you’re cordially invited to our Easter degustation, featuring Go Native, Back Country Cuisine, The Outdoor Gourmet Company and Radix Nutrition for super simple and tasty freeze-dried meals.

A little fresher to the camp food crowd is Offgrid Provisions. From tangy tomato, zingy ginger, and smack of spice in a curry, to the modest side meal of Aussie-grown rice for more bulk in your grub – Offgrid offer that smack of savoury beyond the big smoke.

Best of all, each of these options are made from quality ingredients – and taste a lot better than you may expect from packaged camp meals!

…OK, OK – so you’re better than a packet meal? We commend you – and these days, cooking simple but delicious family-friendly camp meals is only becoming easier. Check out these tips for meal planning ahead of your next 4WD or camping trip, or some of our favourites on our YouTube series ‘Camp Cooking with Cam’.

It’s still possible to enjoy fast, tasty, and nutritious food without taking camp cooking too seriously! Credit: Sea to Summit

Cam’s Buttermilk Pancakes with Stewed Apples are the perfect camp breakfast option for the whole family on holiday.

‘But Honey… we’ll have the kids with us too…’

Camping with kids is great fun too, and steering your children away from computers and electronic devices and into the great outdoors can be very rewarding (especially for teenagers!). Planning ahead in general is recommended, but even more so when camping with the kids.

Maybe you have a campsite in mind, and the kids are already excited. Have you thought about what to take, whether you need to book ahead and secure your site, what kid-friendly activities are on offer, will they enjoy it, and what camp food you’ll pack?

Choose a Site with Suitable Amenities

Selecting a campsite that has facilities like toilets and a shower block will help children especially transition into going outdoors. This will make it easier for you too, in packing less gear. Choose a destination with your kids, and make sure you book ahead.

Other things to consider with your campsite, is how far it is away from home. You want to be able to enjoy time and space from your daily routine, but at the same time, you might not want to sit through a 4 hour car ride.

Steering your children away from electronic devices and into the great outdoors is very rewarding. Credit: Darche

Ben and Lauren discuss the considerations involved in choosing an ideal campsite on the Snowys Camping Show:

Set Up a Trial Camp in the Backyard

If it’s their first trip camping, familiarise your kids with sleeping in the family tent and make note of anything you’ll do differently while away. This is a great way to test whether the sleeping gear is warm, if your mats are comfortable, and whether there’s suitable lighting in the tent.

Be your tent old or new – setting it up the week leading into your trip will also allow time for identifying any issues, damage, or missing parts, and subsequently sourcing anything needed. No one wants to drive for hours on end only to discover a broken tent pole at base camp!

If your shelter is brand new, pitching it before your trip provides an opportunity to understand how the components are assembled, or check out a how-to video if required. By the time your trip rolls around, you’ll be good to go! Just ensure everything is packed back into the bag as it was…not tucked beneath the couch, or swallowed by the dog!

You want to be able to enjoy time and space from your daily routine.

Include Them in the Planning and Packing

Develop a checklist that you can use each time you go camping. This can be refined when you return to ensure you don’t forget anything next time. Encourage the kids to pack their bags with a list you have put together, and make sure you take extra clothes for them too (no doubt they’ll get theirs dirty)!

Plus, pack a few favourite toys and other items from home to create a more familiar environment for them.

Bring Appropriate Shelter to Accommodate Activities

Have some portable shade on hand, such as a gazebo or shelter, to set up an activity station.  This will keep your kids occupied and out of any harsh weather.

Pitching your tent at home allows the chance to identify any damage or parts missing. Image: The O’Hara Family

Consider Safety

Establish camp boundaries. Collect brochures and maps from information centres, and attend guided ranger talks (if they are available) to learn as much as you can.

Plan an Easter Egg Hunt (Leaving No Trace…)

Go prepared with items for a hunt, such as wrapped treats, fruit, or toys. If your kids are old enough too, you could create an orienteering game with a hand-drawn map and compass.

All the same, with the increased popularity of camping over the past few years, there’s concern over the environmental impact of campers not doing the right thing out in the bush or at the beach. On this year’s Easter camping trip, remember the key principals of Leave No Trace.

Still can’t find all the choccy eggs you planted in your own backyard last year? Easter egg hunts are an aspect of Easter that the kids look forward to, but there’s always a couple of stray choccies that go missing. Whilst this isn’t such a big deal when you’re at home, the foil (let alone the chocolate contents) can be hazardous to native wildlife if consumed. This can create negative long-term habits for them too.

Consider the native flora and fauna when preparing your Easter egg hunt. Image: Coleman

If you’re going to have an Easter egg hunt, keep note of the number of eggs you plan to hide and snap a picture of where they’re hidden. Maybe you only hide them around your tent and camp kitchen area to limit the number that go astray. There’s also the option of placing them inside smaller plastic containers to help prevent animals from getting to them before the kids!

When the hunt is over, the chocolate eggs have been gobbled, and the very last hot cross bun has been toasted – pack up camp and leave the site better than you found it. The next camper will thank you – and one day, the next camper will be you!

For more on leaving no trace, tune in to Ben and Lauren on the Snowys Camping Show:

Other Activities for the Kids

• Bush crafts

Pack an outdoor survival book and learn how to make a shelter, or look into other bush crafts.

• Mountain Biking

Bring the bikes for the family, and explore the trails together.

• Short Day Hikes

Be prepared with backpacks, water bottles and snacks for a family hike. Consider going with another family, so the kids have friends to play with.

• Exploring

Teach the kids about wildlife and outdoor ethics, like the leave no trace principles mentioned earlier. Attempt to spot any interesting trees, rocks, and bugs that are native to the area.

Take the time to be present, without aiming to achieve too much in a day.

Don’t Aim to Achieve Too Much

It will be far less stressful if you pick a destination that is not too far away. Don’t expect to hike all the way to the top of the hill, or jam too many activities into your day. Involve your kids in the small things such as pitching the tent, setting up the camp kitchen and packing up.

Make Time for Naps or Breaks

You and your kids will probably be knackered from all the activities you do – so make time to rest so everyone is ready to get up the next day and do it all again!

For more on this topic, Ben and Lauren unpack the considerations on the Snowys Camping Show – as well as how they can differ when camping with teenagers:

Happy Camping Everyone!

Be it chilling out at home in your own backyard, heading to the river, or going camping in the bush – we hope you have a fun and safe trip over Easter this year.

To unwrap something that lasts a little longer than chocolate this Easter, check out our deals!

We hope you have a safe and fun Easter this year!

Do you have a trip planned for Easter this year, or will you be relaxing at home?

The post The Choc-A-Block Easter Blog: Tips for Fun Family Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So how do we keep these items running in the outback… where there are no electricity plugs?

From battery systems to solar power for camping – let’s explore a few of the ways we can acquire electricity in the bush.

How do we keep our electronic items running in the outback? Image: BioLite

Car Battery

If you’re exploring this great country by vehicle, you’ll have power on board in the form of your car battery. This is charged by the alternator while you drive, and your driving is powered by the engine. Most cars put out 12 volts of power, and you will find that a large range of products designed to work in the bush will either run or charge from the car. Most will plug into the car through the cigarette lighter plug.

Pros:

• Reliable while you’re driving, and you will always have it when touring by vehicle
• No need to carry extra componentry, as it’s all built in to your vehicle

Cons:

• Most of the time, we like to use our electrical items when we’ve stopped the car somewhere. Once the car is turned off though, the battery ceases charging.
• This battery needs a lot of power to start the vehicle again, so if we use it all for our electrical items we will flatten the battery
• Once the car battery drops below approximately 10.5 volts, it will be too flat to start the car or run most appliances
• This means that this power source will not last long without using the car’s engine to recharge the battery
• The more appliances that the car is operating, the harder the alternator has to work. This means the engine has to work harder, increasing your fuel consumption.

Most cars put out 12 volts of power.

Dual Battery System

As your car’s battery doesn’t last long and is required to start the vehicle again, the popular decision is to fit a larger second battery. Both batteries are charged by the car when it’s running, but are isolated when the ignition is turned off.

This allows the second battery to run your appliances, leaving the main battery fully charged to start your vehicle again.

Pros:

• The second battery allows you to run appliances for much longer after the vehicle has been turned off
• Most batteries used in a dual battery system can be completely flattened without damaging the battery
• These types of batteries are designed to store a lot of power, so can provide for longer than your main battery – even if you allow it to run flat

Cons:

• Dual battery systems can be complicated in their installation and usually require an auto-electrician to install
• They can be quite expensive to purchase and install
• The second battery will still need to be charged periodically. If being charged by the car, this will slightly increase your fuel consumption.
• You will also need to find space for the dual battery, which means adding more weight to your vehicle

For more on battery chemistry, Ben and Lauren chat with Hardkorr in an earlier season of the Snowys Camping Show:

Solar Panels

With the progression of solar power technology, we have access to a great source of environmentally-friendly power. Free-to-run solar panels can be used to recharge your main or second battery, rather than using the car.

Some systems are even powerful enough to run certain appliances directly, and come in all shapes and sizes for use in a variety of activities and appliances.

Pros:

• Free to run and can be used almost anywhere
• Environmentally friendly, and no need to carry fuel or start your vehicle to use
• Great for charging your batteries when staying in one spot for an extended period of time, or when using high-consumption appliances that require more regular recharging of your batteries.
• Available in a range of sizes – so hikers to carry smaller models for charging mobile phones and GPS systems, and 4WD explorers can carry larger panels to recharge lanterns, or run fridges and laptops

Cons:

• Solar panels are often extremely expensive and awkward to carry
• Solar panels only operate during the day when the sun is present
• Most solar panels require a good supply of sun to ensure they can produce a sufficient amount of power. Some panels may only charge at a decent rate for 3-4 hours a day.
• Most solar panels need to sit in direct sunlight and do not produce a huge volume of power
• Solar panels are often quite fragile and need to be well looked after
• Despite smaller and more efficient models available, solar panels can still be very expensive
• It’s recommended to check consumption rates when deciding on an appropriate system for your needs

Solar panels are available in a range of sizes to suit various needs. Image: Hardkorr

Generators

Generators provide a good, strong supply of power almost anywhere you go. They will operate at all hours of the day (or night) and deliver 240 volts of power to run normal household appliances. Generators can be used to both power appliances directly or charge batteries.

Pros:

• Provide a constant power source that is strong and reliable while running
• Deliver the most power to run household appliances directly, or charge batteries quickly
• Generators are portable and available in smaller, more user-friendly sizes

Cons:

• Generators are noisy. Even the quiet models can often still be heard by the neighbours!
• They are relatively expensive and require fuel, which means you’ll need to carry an extra supply.
• Generators occupy a substantial amount of space, as does the Jerry holding the fuel
• They cannot be used during Total Fire Ban (TFB) days, and can only be used in a restricted manner in most caravan and National Parks (if at all)
• Some places require generator users to only stay in allocated camp areas. This means everyone around you will have their generators purring away, which will be quite noisy!

Ben and Lauren also tap into recreational generators on the Snowys Camping Show:

Plus, check out our product demonstration on the Engel 3500 Pure Sinewave Inverter Generator R3000IE:

Gas and Other Liquid Fuels

Of course, not all of us take electrical items with us when we go camping. Some of us don’t even take our phones, or only use them for emergencies. For most small appliances like phones, UHF radios, lanterns, and camera batteries, the car’s power supply is sufficient. However, gas and other liquid fuels are popular for stoves and lighting.

Pros:

• Gas and liquid fuel stoves are much more efficient than electrical items, and cheaper to run
• Gas and liquid fuel lanterns often provide a much brighter light, and are both cheap and efficient to run
• Liquid fuel canisters and gas bottles are often cheaper and smaller to carry than some battery systems, solar panels and generators

Cons:

• Like all fuels, they need to be carried and refilled as they are used
• Gas refills can be difficult to find in remote areas
• Gas and liquid fuel appliances cannot be used on total fire ban days
• With the development in electrical item technology, gas and liquid fuel appliances may be more expensive to run than some electrical items (such as fridges and LED lanterns)

Gas and other liquid fuels are popular for stoves and lighting.

One Final Note

If you’re taking electrical appliances, you may need to consider a power source that will keep your appliances both running or charging.

Whatever appliance you’re using, it is extremely important to ensure your vehicle’s starting battery is protected. A good, reliable power source also allows the use of items that will make your experience less stressful and more enjoyable.

When choosing a power source, consider the power needs and the volume of power required of all appliances. Take into consideration where you are taking them, and how long you will need them to run for.

If you’re taking electrical appliances, consider a power source that will keep your appliances both running or charging. Image: BioLite

If in doubt, give us a call on 1300 914 007 or email us at service@snowys.com.au. Let us know where you are going, how long you plan to stay, and what appliances you plan to run for some sound advice on which power source may be best for you. Once you’ve got the off-grid power source that’s right for you and your troop, check out our online store for all the gear you’ll need to go with it!

If you’re already a few steps ahead, what are your recommendations for powering up in the bush? Let us know in the comments below!

The post 5 Ways to Power Up in the Bush appeared first on Snowys Blog.

No matter how spontaneous a traveller you are though, there are must-know tips, tricks, and tools to make our dollar (and itinerary) go a little further.

Wherever you travel in the world, these tips will come in handy. Image: Caribee 

Before You Go

Book in Advance

The Aussie winter is the high season for travelling to places like the UK and USA, as it’s leading into summer there. Checking the price of the Eurostar from London to Paris and putting it in the travel budget is great organisation – but booking it two months later could see you paying over $100 AUD more than you budgeted for!

If you’re the sort of traveller that generally likes to wing it and wake up in the morning and see where the day takes you – be aware that the weather can change rapidly, so you need to be willing to change plans. This means making changes to transport and accommodation, which can be hard and expensive if you have booked it all in at a good price and on some ‘non-refundable’ option!

For accommodation at least, apps like Booking.com make it easy. Most hotels and rooms can be booked on a ‘pay later’ basis, which often allows until up to three days before check-in to alter or cancel the booking without a fee. This is handy if you want to secure a good price but remain at least a little flexible to change your plans. Many other online booking apps and sites require a payment upfront to secure the best price.

The No-Fee Bank Card

A good option is the Qantas Travel Money Card. For every Australian dollar loaded, you receive a Qantas point. That said, it can be a hassle figure out how much to put on the card – plus, the bank charges a fee and locks the user into one currency.

Have a look online for what banks may offer that best suit your travel needs.

The Aussie winter is the high season for travelling to places like the UK and USA. Image: Caribee

Travel Insurance

Yes, this is an essential!

We’ve all been there: trying to save money by flirting with the idea of just risking it without insurance.

‘Oh, but I’m just going on a short trip to Bali. I won’t need it.’

Well, as it tends to unfold, that can be the trip when you actually need it! For example, a few years ago, a volcano erupted on Bali’s neighbour island, Lombok. All flights were cancelled for a week – but thankfully, that’s the sort of thing that can be covered under insurance policies.

We suggest finding a company that offers a hybrid coverage of both health and travel. Ensure you have got full protection in an emergency, and pay a little extra to secure your valuables. A recommended insurer is the ‘Qantas’ of travel insurance: World Nomads. They’re Australian, totally helpful, and donate part of their profits to third world countries.

Google Flights

Google Flights not only delivers on price or partner airlines, but functionality. A calendar view allows you to quickly work out which day is best to fly (as opposed to having to reload the page, isolating a specific day). If you can be flexible with the day you fly, check out Google Flights.

No matter where your travels take you, travel insurance is important. Image: Knog

During Your Travels

Travel Adapters

If you’re travelling through many different countries, which is common when you’re travelling Europe or Asia, make sure you have a suitable adapter for each country. For example, if you’re travelling to Europe via London, you’ll need an AU/NZ > British adapter as well as an AU/NZ > Europe adapter. There are also adaptors available for those travelling to Japan and the USA.

Most of these also have USB ports. This means you can have your laptop plugged in and still be charging your smart phone. Usually, the universal adapters are slightly bulkier than the single country products – but if you’re continent hopscotching, you’ll love it.

The Right Luggage

In determining the right luggage, take into account the variety of activities you’ll partake in. For those who won’t be doing any extreme adventuring, there is the option of a straight wheeled bag or a wheeled pack with a daypack for sightseeing. If you like to travel light, a duffle bag with multiway straps might be a good choice. This also bodes well for grabbing your gear, slinging it over your shoulder, or carrying it on your back.

For the backpackers, a travel backpack is a must to ensure that you can trek and explore without wheels holding you down (literally!). Just make sure you find the right size and volume for your frame, and that it has a comfortable and supportive harness.

Then there’s your carry-on. You don’t want to rock up to your flight only to find that your carry on bag is too big to take on the plane. This is why it’s important to ensure that your carry on is the correct size. This and other requirements vary from airline to airline, and country to country – so be sure to call ahead and check before you invest.

Ben and Lauren also ~unpack~ hiking packs with Deuter on the Snowys Camping Show:

For those who won’t be doing any extreme adventuring, there is the option of a straight wheeled bag or a wheeled pack with a daypack for sightseeing. Image: Caribee

For the backpackers, a travel backpack is a must to ensure that you can trek and explore without wheels holding you down (literally!).

Fit Your Pack Correctly

More on this further down, but for now – here are a few things to remember:

• Consider the Length of Your Torso

Most travel packs have an adjustable harness that allows you to lengthen or shorten the harness, depending on the size of your torso. If your harness has a measuring guide, take note of your measurement. That way, if you lend your pack to somebody, it’s easy to adjust back to your size.

• Detach the Daypack

If your travel pack has a detachable daypack, make sure it’s clipped off. It’ll make you too top-heavy and is likely to whack somebody in the face if you turn around abruptly! Instead, carry the daypack by the top handle, or clip it onto the front of your harness by the shoulder straps.

• Heavy Items Go in the Middle

A well-balanced pack will allow your harness to do what it’s meant to, and that is to distribute 80% of the weight to the strongest part of the body: your hips. The last thing you want is for your pack to be hanging off your shoulders – this will be uncomfortable over time and may lead to an injury (or lots of cussing)! By placing heavy gear in the middle of your pack, you prevent it from being top- or bottom-heavy.

TSA Padlocks and Luggage Tags

There’s nothing worse than being frantic in an airport. No matter how organised you are, items like padlock keys just seem to vanish. If you’re travelling to countries that need to inspect your luggage, switch to TSA locks to make life a little easier – just don’t forget your four-digit code! If you find it hard to remember your passwords at the best of times, that code might just fly out the window when you’re under stress in transit. If this sounds like you, choose a lock with a key instead of a pin code.

It’s amazing how similar luggage can look when they’re all rolling out in a row on the conveyor belt. When you’re tired and bleary-eyed from a long haul flight, use luggage tags to make locating your bags easier at baggage claim.

Luggage tags make identifying your bag a little easier during your travels. Image: Knog

Pack Light

Do you really need to take the kitchen sink with you? Travel should be about the places you go, the experiences you have, and the people you meet. Too much gear will impinge on this sense of freedom.

Try to pack gear that offers multiple uses, and is lightweight. Rather than a bottle of shampoo and bar of soap, consider something like Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wash – it’s concentrated, and will last you around a month. Instead of nail clippers, scissors, a pocket knife, screwdriver, and so on – pack a Multi-Tool or Swiss Army Knife (more on this further down). Rather than carrying a pack full of clothes, choose quality, hard-wearing items that dry quickly so you can wash on the go (with your Wilderness Wash!).

Travel Comfortably

On those long 10+ hour flights, a good trick is to break up the time. Watch a couple of movies for the first three hours, sleep the next chunk, then either write or read for the last leg. This way, you can focus only on the three or four hours ahead. Turn off the flight path (this is as painful as watching paint dry!). When you’re ready to be (slightly) productive, or shift the boredom – pull out your headphones and open Audible. Pre-download a book before your leave, so you don’t need WiFi.

There’s nothing worse than trying to catch some shut eye when the lights are on in the plane, your pillow keeps slipping down the side of the seat, and there’s an adorable baby screaming bloody murder at your end of the plane. You can’t control what other people do on your flight – but you can pick up an eye mask for blocking out light, some ear plugs for cancelling noise, and a neck pillow to support your head while you try to catch some shut-eye!

If you’re one to feel motion-sick, there’s no need for you to spend the whole flight with a churning stomach. Do yourself a favour and pick up a pair of motion sickness straps, and some air sickness tablets for good measure. That way you can kick back and enjoy the in-flight entertainment, or catch up on a good read.

While the fun is in the journey – find items, tools, and little tricks that’ll offer helpful shortcuts or a welcomed ‘travel companion’!

Travel should be about the places you go, the experiences you have, and the people you meet. Image: Salomon

Top 5 Essentials for Outdoor Adventuring

1. Comfortable and Lightweight Daypack

Even if you’ll spend most of your time relaxing, there are likely to be times when you head out-and-about.

While many travel packs come with zip-on bags, these tend to be small and lack useful features. Daypacks range from 15-40 litres, making them light but roomy enough to fit the necessities (e.g., phone, money, and camera).

Look for:

• Comfort

Comfortable and adjustable harness with padded straps and good ventilation

• Rainproof cover

This will protect valuable electronic gear that you have in your pack

• Hydration compatibility

So you don’t have to buy or pack bulky water bottles

• Laptop compartment

If you simply must to catch up on those emails while on holiday…

• External or side pouches

Where you can store wet or muddy gear and snacks

Look for a daypack that’s as comfortable as it is useful. Image: Caribee

Even if you’ll spend most of your time relaxing, there are likely to be times when you head out-and-about. Image: BlackWolf

2. Hydration System

A hydration system can very valuable, as it negates the need to stop to retrieve your bottle from your pack. They come into their own when riding a bike, motorbike, or horse. Salomon’s XA 25 and 35 Hiking Bags are also a small, slimline, and lightweight option for hydration on the go.

Look for:

• Sufficient size

Typically options are between 1-3 litres, but this will depend on how much you drink, how far you are going, and how long you’re travelling for

• A good mouthpiece

Many cheaper ones are poorly made, leak, and don’t withstand knocks

• Pull-apart and easy-to-clean components

Look for hydration packs that have service kits available, like those from Camelbak

A hydration pack negates the need to stop to retrieve your bottle from your pack. Image: Salomon

3. Lightweight Cooking Stove

While some may say it’s a little over-the-top, many pack their lightweight cooking gear when heading overseas.

It’s a particularly good idea for longer expeditions, or when on a tight budget. Lightweight cookers typically operate on gas, pressurised liquid fuel, or simple liquid fuels i.e. methylated spirits.

Look for:

• Gas stoves

Gas types are the simplest (and cheapest), but you can’t take cylinders on a plane. Plus, finding them when you arrive can be difficult (especially in less-developed countries).

• Pressurised multi-fuel styles

The MSR Whisperlite is a good example, though they can be a little daunting to learn to use.

• Liquid fuel stoves

Liquid fuel types, like Trangia, are indestructible and simple to use – but bulkier, and don’t heat as efficiently.

The Trangia is simple and indestructible, but bulkier. Image: Chris Newman

4. Head Torch

From finding the light switch in a dark hostel room to searching for that bottle opener behind the back seat of the car, a head torch is one of the items you’ll find you reach for the most. LED technology has come a long way, and the head torch range available today is extensive. However, beware of cheaper models that drain batteries – they will let you down when you need them most.

Look for:

• Comfort and ease of use

Comfortable head strap and up-down pivot adjustability

• Sufficient power

A 100-lumen output is the benchmark for an average, good-quality head torch

• Adjustable LED beam

This feature is handy, as it will conserve battery life

• Water resistance

This ensures that the head torch will perform in all kinds of weather

LED technology has come a long way, and the headtorch range available today is extensive. Image: Knog

5. Multi-Tool of Swiss Style Pocket Knife

Arguably one of the most useful items you can take with you. Whether you prefer a multi tool (like a Leatherman or Zippo) or a traditional Swiss style pocket knife (like Victorinox) there’s sure to be a model that has the tools and size you are after. The differences between multi-tools and Swiss styles? Multitools are preferred by tradies as they include pliers and wire strippers, while the Swiss designs tend to be more for travellers as they have a corkscrew, scissors and other novelty features like a toothpick.

Look for:

• Precision and a high-quality steel construction

This is where the extra money you pays off when it comes to a multitool

• Lockable blades

These can be an advantage, as it is an extra safety measure to ensure the blade stays put when in your pocket. Just remember not to put it in your carry-on bag!

Instead of carrying a fire lighter and tinder shreds, save space with the Zippo Surefire Multi Tool – featuring flint wheel ignition and a tinder grater. Image: Zippo

Venture Off-Track

It can be tempting to stay on the path well travelled. After all, we tend to head to places like Paris or New York to see the sights we have heard so much about. Often though, by straying from the path by just a little we see the ‘real side’ of a place. The Paris that the Parisians live in. The Las Vegas where the roulette dealers spend their weekends. The tavernas of rural Greece where elderly Greeks play backgammon with old mates.

By all means, take in the tourist attractions. But explore a little further afield too. See what you discover.

Be sure to explore a little afield!

This blog was updated for 2024, comprising of content from bloggers Amanda Smith, Paul Goodsell, Daniel Gorman, and Bob West.

What are the essential items you always take when you travel?

The post Tricks and Tools for Every Traveller appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Nonetheless, there are many tips and tricks you can implement to promise a successful hiking trip. Read on for my top ten pointers to kick-start your next outdoor expedition.

Read on for my top ten pointers to kick-start your next outdoor expedition. Image: Sea to Summit

1. Bags, Bags, Bags

You need bags. You need more bags than you think. A garbage bag. A dirty laundry bag. A wet-stuff bag. A dry-stuff bag. A bag-to-keep-the-spare-bags-in bag.

Plastic garbage bags weigh absolutely nothing, but become the handiest items you’ll ever need on the track. Pack at least three or four, and you’ll thank me later.

2. Pack Right

I’ll keep this simple because I could write a whole article on this.

Put your heavy, least commonly used items down the bottom of your rucksack. This could include your sleeping bag, tent, mat, some food or fuel, and spares.

Stick your water and hiking food in the middle, so you can easily hydrate and eat on the track without having to dig.

Finally, pack your essential items at the top: a map and compass, an extra layer/outer shell of clothing, first aid kit, camera, and maybe some snacks.

The more bags, the better! Photo: Exped

If you take your time packing your bag properly, so you can access everything easily on the trail. Photo: Sea to Summit

3. Light it Up

One more thing for the top of your rucksack: your head torch. Trust me, the times you need this item are the times you don’t want to be rummaging around blindly for it. It’ll be dark. So put it in a spot you know you can easily find it by feel.

I always put my head torch in the top lid compartment of my rucksack, where I know I can find it with minimal fuss in a dark, cramped tent.

4. Easy-Use Hydration System

Instead of carrying more than one water bottle or container, kit out your rucksack with an easy-to-use reservoir. That way, you can have easy access to your water supply without having to reach around your pack.

When the sky gets dark, you’ll want to be able to get to your headtorch easily. Photo: Sea to Summit

Kit out your rucksack with an easy-to-use reservoir. Image: Exped

5. Sharing is Caring

The smart hiker knows they might forget something, which hopefully your hiking buddy will have. You are going to need bargaining power to get this coveted item off them, without being reminded of it for the remainder of the trip!

Pack something you know your buddy is going to need or like, but you have no interest in whatsoever. Snacks or drinks are the obvious commodities here.

6. Skin Deep

Try wearing a pair of old skins, at least on your legs.

Here’s why: they provide your legs with low-friction and lightweight scratch-resistance from low-level shrubs. As any cyclist will tell you, they also breathe exceptionally well but allow your legs a little insulation against cold conditions (at least long enough for you to fetch your pants from your rucksack).

Another advantage is the exceptional flexibility they grant you. When you’re climbing and rock-hopping, you can sometimes be restricted by conventional clothing.

Your buddy will probably have something you need and vice versa. Photo: Sea to Summit

7. First Aid

Most good first aid kits cover the basics of wound dressing: sterile swabs, saline water, and various bandage options. Keep this maintained every trip, but add in the following over-the-counter medications:

• Anti-inflammatory gel and/or tablets
• Pain relief
• Blister relief pads
• Muscle relief gel
• Antihistamines
• And of course, any other prescribed medication you might need

Just make sure you don’t take any contraindicated medication, and consult your doctor if you’re not sure. You see where I’m going with this. Hiking is physical; it’s hard and it’s rough. You need to make repairs and maintenance on your body as you go. Part of that is pain relief, inflammation relief, or just helping your body relax and repair overnight – so stock up on whatever ‘help’ you can give it and thank me in the morning.

8. Carabiners

Get your hands on some small spring-clip carabiners. You’re not trying to look like a grade-32 rock climber, you just need a couple of small cheapies. They are super convenient for clipping stuff on to your rucksack securely: mugs, gloves, even a camera strap if you have to.

Also, clip one on to that rucksack zipper you can never find in a hurry. You’ll never lose it again!

Make sure you stock up your first aid kit with hiking specific essentials. Image: Exped

9. New Cologne

This tip is my personal favourite. Pack a unique, previously unused deodorant, cologne or perfume. Your brain is wired with strong neural connections between scent (olfactory) and memory functions. By using a brand-new scent, you’ll grow strong associations between your new experiences hiking, and the new smell.

Months or even years later, your memories of good times on the track will come back vividly with the mere whiff of the ol’ cologne.

10. The 3:30 Rule

It’s time to start looking for a campsite at 3:30 in the afternoon. Trust me, years of research have been devoted to figuring out this magic, ‘Goldilocks’ moment in the day.

Three o’clock is too early. You can still be moving, making ground. Four o’clock is pushing it. The sun will be down over those mountains in an hour – are you gonna have your tent up, fire set, and be in position for your scenic sunset photography session in an hour? Well, maybe. But you’ll be pushing it.

So trust me, 3:30pm is campy-time. Mmkay? Break the rule, and refer to Hack #3!

When it starts to get closer to sundown, be sure to scout out somewhere to camp. Photo: Sea to Summit. 

This article was updated for 2024. 

Got any other camping hacks to share?

The post 10 Hacks for an Easier Hike appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, a fridge requires a fair bit of energy to run – it’s almost always the highest consumer, and you need to get that power from somewhere. There is a lot of focus on solar panels and batteries, but there are a number of ways you can reduce the energy consumption from your 12V fridge.

In this blog, we defrost our top 10 tips for how to reduce the energy consumption of your 12V fridge off the grid – so you can keep the cans cold and perishables fresh for longer. From kicking back on the boat to basking in the balmy bliss of the campsite, read on for a refresher on fridge maintenance facts and energy-saving hacks to keep the tucker in date.

These days, portable fridges are extremely popular additions to any camping and 4WD arrangement. Image: Dometic

How Much Power Does a Fridge Need?

There are many different factors that affect the energy consumption of a 12V fridge: size, compressor style, ambient temperature, insulation thickness, the temperature they are set to cool to, what you are using it for – the list goes on. However, most will consume in between 1 amp and 6 amps (with 2.5 amps being fairly average) per hour when running. That said, a fridge won’t usually run 100% of the time, so it only pulls that current when the compressor is on.

Most fridges are loud enough to hear within a few metres. Again, the cycle time varies considerably, but on average they run about 50% of the time.

Using the above example – where the fridge draws 2.5 amps when the compressor is on, but only runs for 1/2 the day – it will use 30 amp hours of the battery capacity.

Measuring a Fridge’s Power Consumption

Power consumption is measured in Amps per Hour (Aph or a/h), which refers to the number of amps an appliance uses in one hour of use.

There are 2 ways that a/h is measured for camping fridges:

1. Usage draw – this is the amount of power the fridge draws while running
2. Average draw – this is the amount of power the fridge draws per hour over a 24-hour period

When determining power consumption, it is important to look at both figures. However, the second figure (average draw), will give the best indication of fridge efficiency.

Fridges will cycle on and off to maintain temperature. Better insulation means less cycling, in turn resulting in a better average current draw.

Do not run your fridge off your main battery. Run a dual battery setup instead. Image: Aaron Schubert

What Battery Should a Fridge Run Off?

Fridges should never run off the cranking battery that you use to start your vehicle. The only exception to this is while you are driving, and only if you absolutely must. The reason behind this is simple: your cranking battery is imperative to start your vehicle, so if you run it flat you’ll be in serious trouble.

The most common way to run a fridge is with a second battery, which is isolated from the main cranking battery. The best option is a deep-cycle battery, designed (as the name suggests) to cycle from full to half empty, and back again – anywhere from 1200-1700 times. You can run them off a normal cranking battery, though they don’t like to be cycled and you will shorten its life substantially. Lithium batteries are also becoming more popular, as they have several advantages, but they also come at a pretty hefty cost.

How Low Can I Go With the Battery?

Far too many people think that just because their fridge is running, the battery has enough power left. This is not the case – you should not run your battery to below 50% of charge (normally around 12.2-12.3 volts).

A fridge will continue to run well below this until the low-level alarm is set off and cuts the power. Most fridges have a low-level cut-out, but it’s not usually until well under 12 volts. If you run your battery below 50% of charge, its lifespan will be rapidly decreased – and batteries aren’t cheap!

If you have a 100Ah deep-cycle battery, you should only be using 50 amps of its capacity. This, in the above scenario, is only 1 and 2/3 of a day (without any other consumption) before you start to damage your battery.

From that point on, you either need to start your vehicle and allow the alternator to charge the battery, or arrange some solar input. However, after a couple of cloudy days things start to get a bit desperate! Using your vehicle’s engine to charge the battery is a pretty uneconomical way to do things too.

So – how can you reduce the energy consumption from your 12V fridge? Well, in a similar way to keeping ice cold for longer in an ice box, actually!

You should not run your battery to below 50% of charge. Image: Dometic

1. Cool Your Items Before Leaving Home

Most fridges will have the ability to run on 240V (this is a feature to look for when buying a fridge). If you can avoid it, don’t put room temperature items in your fridge. It will only have it working harder and using more power. Run the fridge on 240V and cool it down at home before heading off on your trip. Most power will be drawn while cooling down the interior of the fridge, so use 240V at home to lower temperature before putting the fridge on 12V.

Obviously, this is unavoidable if you are on the road. Where possible though, pre-chill your food and drink.

2. Crack the Lid Slowly

If you unlatch your fridge and yank the lid up, the rapid movement draws a huge volume of cold air out of your fridge and sends it into the atmosphere. Once you close the lid, the fridge needs to cool down the hot air you’ve just filled it with.

The trick is simple: crack the lid gently until it’s open about 10cm, then open it normally. This will both stop most of the cold air escaping, and save you some substantial power consumption.

Crack the lid gently until it’s open about 10cm, then open it normally. Image: Engel

3. Keep the Fridge Full

A full fridge works much more efficiently than an empty one. If you are running low on food and drinks in the fridge, bottles of water work very well. Once they are cool, you’ll save a lot of energy; they don’t immediately change temperature like air does when the lid is opened.

Make sure the food and drink you put into your camping fridge are already cold. If you put a warm slab of drinks into the fridge, it will use lots of power to cool those drinks down to temperature, before it starts cycling again.

Another recommendation is to allow your fridge to freeze (-15 degrees) and add a couple of freezer bricks. Make sure to put the fridge on a few days in advance for it to freeze properly. This will ensure the interior of your fridge is nice and cold. If you have enough space to fit your food in with the freezer bricks, leave one or two in when you pack your food before adjusting = the temperature of the fridge back to two degrees. The fridge will work like an Esky for the first part of your trip, and may not even turn itself on to keep cold for days!

4. Keep Your Fridge as Cool as Possible

It sounds like common sense, but many fridges have been seen laying around in the sun at campsites. Obviously, your fridge will work better in the shade, and out of hot vehicles. If it’s packed in the boot and your car is in the sun, your fridge will be combatting high ambient temperatures and will likely drain your battery twice as fast.

The difference between a fridge operating in an ambient temperature of 25 to 40 degrees is huge. The hotter the air outside of the fridge, the harder your compressor has to work. Obviously, you can’t always the ambient temperature, but you can control where your fridge is stored.

Parking under a tree, for example, will keep your vehicle much cooler and reduce how much work the fridge has to do to keep your food and drinks cold. If you are parked up, open the back of the vehicle so it doesn’t heat up.

A full fridge works much more efficiently than an empty one. Image: Dometic

A fridge slide is a good way of keeping your fridge secure in the 4WD, but popping it out like this, when you’re at camp, ensures airflow. Image: Aaron Schubert 

5. Airflow is Imperative

The compressor in your fridge will produce heat, a by-product of reducing the temperature inside the cabinet. It’s important to allow plenty of space for this heat to escape from your fridge. More ventilation results in better efficiency. It’s all well and good having your fridge packed in tight – but if it can’t breathe freely, you are making it work hard. Ensure the compressor has ample room to suck in clean, cool air. If you have the fridge mounted in an enclosed area, consider the use of a  small vent or computer fan to aid air circulation.

Toolboxes on the front of camper trailers are popular for mounting fridges, but on a warm day they can easily reach 65 degrees inside. While it probably won’t kill your fridge, it isn’t doing it any favours in terms of longevity – and will most certainly cause it to consume more power.

6. Fridge Covers

You’ll see that a lot of fridge manufacturers sell covers for their fridges. These help to protect the fridge, but also improve their insulation properties. The better insulated your fridge, the less heat that can pass through and the less cold air that can escape. Almost all fridges will benefit from an insulative cover by preventing the outer casing from heating up. It’s kind-of like putting an Esky into a soft cooler bag. By adding extra insulation to the fridge, it will stay colder for longer and thus use less power.

Next time you are at your fridge, touch the outside of it when it’s running. If it is noticeably cooler than the air around you, the insulation is allowing the cold to escape.

Fridge covers help insulate the fridge so that it runs cooler. Image: Aaron Schubert

7. Time and Number of Times Opened

The longer you leave your fridge open, the more it has to cool down when you close it again. Every time you open the fridge, you will displace the cold air. This means the fridge has to cool all the new air that has entered the fridge.  Limit the amount of time the fridge is left open or how frequently it is opened to prevent the internal temperature rising. Make a habit of grabbing what you need quickly and closing the lid. 

If you are about to cook something, have a think about what you need before opening the fridge. Don’t limit yourself to only opening the fridge a few times a day, but anything you can do to limit the number of times you open the fridge is ideal. As mentioned in the blog post on keeping ice from melting, perhaps have a small icebox at your disposal to keep drinks nearby. This will save you from having to open the fridge too often.

8. Close the Lid Properly

While it’s easy to just drop the lid and not do up the latches, if any air can pass in or out it’ll have the fridge working harder. Take the extra two seconds to latch it closed.

Snowys blogger Aaron Schubert’s trusty EvaKool 12V fridge. Image: Aaron Schubert.

9. Check the Wiring

The power supply to your fridge needs to have adequately sized wiring. If it is too small, you’ll lose efficiency quite quickly. Usually, this is an issue from your battery to the fridge power-point, especially if it’s running from the front of the vehicle to the rear. It’s recommended to run a 6mm square cable, minimum. 

Heavy-duty wiring from your 12V battery to your fridge won’t have your fridge use any less power, but it will help you get more out of your battery. Many standard vehicle setups have thin wiring looms that attribute to voltage drop. This means that while your battery reads 12.5V, only 12V is reaching your fridge. Furthermore, if your fridge is fitted with battery protection, it may turn itself off despite there being plenty of life left in your battery.

10. Use a Quality Fridge

Lastly, if you’ve bought yourself a cheap fridge and you find it’s chewing the power, it might be time to consider upgrading to a more quality unit. Brands like Engel, Dometic, Evakool, and Bushman have each earned themselves a solid reputation!

Keep an eye on your voltage usage. Image: Aaron Schubert

Enjoy Your Fridge!

There’s nothing quite like being able to pull a cold drink from your fridge in the middle of nowhere. Enjoy the luxury, do what you can to conserve energy consumption – and if it’s still using too much, consider looking at improving your solar or battery arrangement.

There’s nothing quite like being able to pull a cold drink from your fridge in the middle of nowhere. Image: Dometic

This blog is a consolidation of a 2016 work by Aaron Schubert and a 2015 work by David Leslie, updated for 2024.

What sort of 12V fridge do you use? Let us know in the comments. 

The post 10 Ways to Power Your 12V Fridge for Longer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Vacuum sealing allows for food like meat to be stored for much longer periods of time. This allows you to take food you wouldn’t normally on your trip. Plus, you’ll make fewer trips to the shops while travelling.

Not everything can or should be vacuum sealed, though. For example, when done correctly, red meat can last up to 6 weeks at the bottom of your camping fridge, set at 0-2°C. Pre-cooked meals like stews and spaghetti bolognese can be prepared at home, then ready to eat on the road in just a few short minutes – with minimal prep and next to no cleaning up!

Hard cheeses go great in the vacuum sealer, and with the right preparation certain vegetables can also benefit from some work at home, before going in a vacuum pack and into the camp fridge.

For a demonstration of how to vacuum seal, hit the play button above!

What Does Vacuum Sealing Do?

Vacuum sealing removes the majority of oxygen from the packaging, vastly reducing the ability of aerobic or oxygen-dependent bacteria. Not only does the reduced ability of this bacteria help extend the shelf life of your food, but oxygen itself is involved in several chemical reactions that result in food spoilage.

The number one aim of the game when preparing food is removing as much oxygen as possible. Anything less than a perfect seal should be done again. One of the ways to improve the quality of your seal is to fold the top of the bag in on itself.

Ensure that the part of the bag you wish to seal is dry and contaminate-free before sealing, as this will drastically improve your chances of achieving a good seal.

Tips for Using a Vacuum Sealer

One of the best parts about a vacuum sealer is that you can cook meals in the comfort of your own home, without worrying about cleaning up, using precious water supplies, or how much garbage you produce out at the campsite.

Red meat stews are absolutely fantastic, as are mince bolognaise sauces. Cook them up, throw them in some plastic containers in appropriate serving sizes (either individual or group), then straight into the freezer. Once your meal is sufficiently set (not quite frozen, but so the liquids are more solid than not), scoop it into your vacuum bag. Just remember, the trick is to keep your edge clean and seal that bad boy up!

Once you know you have a good seal, it’s into the fridge it goes – ready for your trip!

How’s this for a ‘snack hack’ – cut the top off your chip packet and vacuum seal ‘er up! Smaller package, and no stale chips.

Re-Heating Vacuum Sealed Food

On your big adventure, you have two options.

If you’re using good quality bags, you can pop them into a pot of hot (but not necessarily boiling – 70°C is plenty warm) water for a few minutes to heat up your meal. Out of the water, being careful not to burn yourself, snip off the top and empty straight into a bowl. Serve it with of whatever you’ve planned – rice, pasta, baked potato – and dinner is ready to go! No mess, no stress, and ready in under 10 minutes.

The other option is emptying your meal into a pot or pan, and heating it up as you would at home. This is more conventional, but there is more washing up afterwards! For meal planning ideas for an outdoor adventure, head here.

You can pre-season your meat before vacuum sealing it. The same is true of marinating. In fact, the longer it’s in the vacuum pack for, the tastier it will become. 

Best Foods to Vacuum Seal

As mentioned above, hard cheeses go well in the vacuum sealer. Buy a big block of tasty cheddar, cut it into four smaller portions, and vacuum seal them individually. Open as needed, and always enjoy fresh cheese!

Vegetables are a little different. Many vegetables will give off a gas when vacuum sealed, and this leads to almost immediate spoilage given those gases have nowhere to go. To counteract this, cut vegetables as if you were to eat them straight away. Always blanch vegetables for 1-2 minutes, followed by a quick dunk in ice water. Dry thoroughly before storage to ensure the seal is tight and a good vacuum is achieved. Preparing vegetables such as green beans, snow peas, potato, pumpkin, and carrots like this is a great way to extend their shelf life to up to three weeks on the road.

Vegetables Not to be Vacuum Sealed

Cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage should never be vacuum sealed. Even after blanching, they can emit gases at fridge temperature.

Something that is often overlooked but should follow closely behind is the humble vacuum sealer – and a roll of bags! Image: Campfire

Vacuum Sealed Meat

Vacuum sealed meat can often be a darker colour when first removed from the fridge. Upon exposure to oxygen, however, this should slowly return to a much more ‘normal’ red. Meat will often have a slight odour when first removed from packaging, but this should dissipate after a few minutes.

Like all food, you should use your common sense. If it smells and looks off after 10 minutes out of the packaging, it’s safer to discard it than to regret it later!

As you can see, all the air has been removed. This cut of beef will keep significantly longer now, either in the fridge or freezer at home, the car fridge, or icebox. 

My Experiences with Vacuum Sealing

I spent a month on Fraser Island fishing and camping, and before leaving home I prepared and vacuum sealed several meals and packets of sausages. I ended up catching so many fish though, that we hardly needed to touch them!

On our last day on the island, we ate a packet of sausages that had been sitting at the bottom of the fridge for exactly 30 days. After giving them a few minutes to air and cooking them in the frypan, we enjoyed a delicious meal of beef sausages after weeks of fish!

While you might not always need your meat to last 30 days, vacuum sealing is a fantastic way of preparing and storing your meat, cheeses, some vegetables, and pre-made meals when camping or on the road. I highly recommend one to everyone!

As well as vacuum sealing, Ben and Lauren also chat with Dr. Kate Grarock on the Snowys Camping Show about the benefits of dehydrating food:

Do you vacuum seal your food for camping trips? Let us know, we’d love to hear what your experiences have been.

The post The Benefits of Vacuum Sealing Food appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Your next camping destination might not necessarily be right under your nose. You may have to look for it.

A little thought and planning can make all the difference, and this blog will help to narrow down to the perfect destination to travel to on your adventures.

Choosing the perfect location for your next getaway doesn’t have to be a stressful experience.

1. How Far Will You Travel?

The magical travel time for the perfect getaway is well known in the tourism industry to be around two hours. Accommodation and experience providers aim to be located around 2 hours from major populations – but in a country as large as Australia, travelling for a little longer can be rewarding.

If it’s a weekend getaway, two hours or so is about right. However, if you will be extending your stay at the next destination, a longer journey is definitely doable.

You don’t want to have to race to your destination – plan the distance and journey in proportion to how long you will stay there.

As we travelled around Australia, we found the average distance for a trip was around three hours. That was over a year travelling Australia with around 150 stops. Some trips were shorter, particularly near capital cities, while others stretched up to six or seven hours.

Of course, the terrain you are covering can alter travel times. Are you heading off-road, into the high country, or along some beaches? If the answer is yes to either, travel certainly won’t be as fast as tearing up the Mount Panorama main straight! Make sure to allow for this as well.

Some of the best locations are off-road and remote. Allow enough time to get into them.

2. ‘Me’ Time or Social Time?

There are over 25 million people inhabiting Australia – but even on such a large continent, you can always find some space for yourself. Are you looking to get out to enjoy it alone, or to have some fun with new friends?

Caravan parks and resorts can be very popular, frequented often by plenty of people on short, medium, and longer-term holidays. If you are looking to meet like-minded people, you can slide into a site and straight into a social group.

Are you wanting to go camping or on holiday near lots of people to share adventures, stories and fun?

Alternatively, you might be looking to head off somewhere remote, where there’s just you, some great views, and the odd native animal. Australia has some of the best remote camping and caravanning destinations in the world – and while you may need to travel a little longer to get there, the rewards of silence and stunning views can be incredible.

Or would you prefer something a little more remote, perhaps for some alone time?

3. What Camping Style Works For You?

If you’re heading off in a tent with little else, you might need to camp a little closer to some facilities, like bathrooms and toilets. Same goes for some campers or pop-top caravans without full facilities. Different campsites, national parks, and caravan parks have different facilities available to campers and caravanners; some near, some far away, and some non-existent.

Do you want to be close to facilities like camp kitchens, toilets, pools, and playgrounds? We love a good camp kitchen when available.

If you have a full caravan, portable facilities, or just don’t mind roughing it a bit, your options open up considerably. It also provides more of an opportunity to get back to nature and enjoy the simple things.

Or are you happy creating or taking along your own amenities and resources?

4. Be Smart and Have an Emergency Plan

During our summers, Australia has fought some of the harshest bushfires in history. Many holidaymakers have been caught up in some pretty terrifying situations – and we were no different on our trip.

Whenever you head somewhere, be aware of multiple exit points.

Can you get in and out in an emergency? If you can, where do you need to head to?

Where are the nearest populations and hospitals?

Having a fire or emergency plan when travelling is just as important as when at home.

Accidents can happen. When travelling around Australia, we had a broken and dislocated wrist to tend to, which had has heading to hospital!

During our travels, we were able to access emergency apps to monitor and avoid raging bushfires – but we couldn’t totally avoid our share of emergencies! A bike incident resulted in multiple emergency and hospital visits for one of our sons, luckily on the east coast. However, another son fell in a fire on the Gibb River Road, requiring first aid and a subsequent visit to a remote community hospital for follow-up.

We also had a first-degree burn to manage, in a fairly remote part of Australia.

Whenever we travel, we take note of exit routes, local hospitals, and towns. We also carry with us our first aid kits, water, and communication devices to keep us and our family protected.

It can also come in handy to help others. On our travels, we often came across local and international tourists who weren’t prepared and needed help with First Aid and even water.

It’s not just about knowing your options. Whenever we go anywhere, we take along our backpacks, full of emergency supplies.

5. Leave Your Destination Better for the Next Visit

As we travelled around Australia, we were always amazed at how little others seem to care for some of the great locations we have to offer. It’s not just the international tourists either!

When we depart somewhere, we always try to leave it in better condition than when we found it. Picking up rubbish is pretty simple, and can make a big difference to the local environment. Pay it forward when you can.

As the expression goes: ‘take only photographs and leave only footprints’!

Wherever you go, leave only footprints. If you have the chance, clean up after others leaving a site even better than when you found it.

Australia is massive, and choosing the destination for your next camping or caravan trip can be overwhelming. Hopefully, we have helped you with a process to help find your next getaway!

Ben and Lauren also discuss the considerations when both finding and choosing a campsite, on the Snowys Camping Show:

How do you choose a new location? What do you consider and what resources do you use? We’d love to hear in the comments below.

The post 5 Tips For Planning a Camp Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

I’ve seen several budding campers go through a very steep learning curve regarding water usage, especially when camping in more remote locations. Unlike at home, you are only able to carry a certain amount – and if you’re not careful with it, you’ll run out! This is particularly the case for caravans and camper trailers with showers on board. As convenient and luxurious as they are, it’s easy to empty the water tanks by enjoying those long showers.

7 days off-grid with only the water we brought.

Pay Attention

Next time your water bill comes in, have a look at the amount of water you are consuming at home each day. Then, think about the water storage you have when camping. The average consumption in Australia is anywhere from 100-300 litres per person, per day. You just can’t get away with that when camping without a very elaborate setup (which we discuss further down). If anything will encourage awareness around water usage, and help someone appreciate the need to conserve water – spending time off-the-grid will do it.

So – how can you save water when camping?

Bush baths for our two little boys.

Clean Yourself Efficiently

Hands down, showering is the largest consumer of water when camping. For this reason, a vast number of people decide to forego showering altogether, which is the ultimate way to save water. Instead, they regularly use wipes and sponge baths which, although not overly glamorous, are quick, easy, and leave you clean and refreshed.

Our outdoor shower set up with water-efficient showerhead.

However, if you do have a shower, there are many advisable habits you can embrace to conserve water.

The first is to make sure you have a conservative pump and showerhead.

The second is to adopt a new practice: before turning the water on, get organised with undressing and have everything you need ready to go. Turn the water on, wet yourself down, turn the water off, soap up, turn the water back on, quickly rinse yourself, and turn it off once more before hopping out. By using this method, our little family of 4 (including 2 toddlers) can each have a reasonable shower using under 14 litres of water in total. That’s 3.5 litres of water on average, and we repeat this regularly.

Another fantastic tip is to consider using dry shampoo. This is particularly useful for those with longer hair – you will use a tremendous amount of water when wetting and rinsing liquid or bar shampoo.

Electric pumps can make you waste water easily.

Make Water ‘Harder’ to Get

On our previous camper trailer, we had much less water storage, and it also came with a hand pump. This manual device requires you to move a knob up and down, building the pressure for water flow. More effort and time is required, but hand pumps have one very distinct benefit: they will save you water. With each stroke, you are consciously pulling water out of your limited supply.

When you can flick a lever, or turn a tap on, it’s easy to allow water to run down the drain – and when you have a limited amount, this is an issue. For kids especially, a hand pump is a fantastic way to conserve water.

Alternatively, ensure your pump and piping don’t empty your tanks with a high flow rate. Anything around the 4L/minute is going to do you very well.

Lastly, you will use less water from a small tap on a jerry can than an electric pump that just chugs it out with no regard for your water conservation. You want to be comfortable, but anything that has you conscious of your water usage is a good thing – which leads us to the next point…

Our flow metre is showing we have 107 litres of water left.

Meter the Water

A large majority of people rely on rudimentary water gauges, or the ability to either feel the weight or see the water levels through a jerry can. A game-changer for us has been the flow meters we have on our new camper trailer. These reset when the tank is full and calculate every single litre as the water is used, displaying the remaining volume on the digital screen.

Flow meters are a brilliant way to not only know precisely the amount of water you have left (as the level sensors are average at best), but to keep track of consumption while doing individual water-based tasks. This is how we know we are only using 14L of water for our family showers.

Washing hands regularly or using a sanitiser is crucial for maintaining hygiene. Image: Sea to Summit

Keep Your Hands Clean

Hygiene when camping is essential, and frequent handwashing is a crucial part of this. We primarily use hand sanitiser for its convenience, effectiveness, and lack of water requirement. Washing your hands several times per day with soap and water eats into your supplies and, although this method is still necessary from time to time, compensating with sanitiser reduces water consumption.

Camping near freshwater is handy for bucket washing your socks and jocks.

Wash Your Clothes Efficiently

Laundry on the road isn’t the easiest task, especially when your water supply is restricted. Many people take their washing to a laundromat, therefore saving their stored water.

However, this is not always possible – and washing clothes on the road is common. Whether you are using a bucket for your laundry, a small washing machine, or a wash bag – one of the best things you can do is use a wool wash-based detergent, as this doesn’t require rinsing off. As a result, you’ll save a heap of water.

Collecting clean water from a creek.

Use Other Water Available

Of course, you must use this water for the right applications. Plus, always maintain awareness of your environmental impact by using eco-friendly products that will not contaminate waterways. That said, camping near a water source is a valuable asset.

Rivers, Creeks, and Lakes

We regularly take water from creeks, rivers, lakes, and even the beach occasionally. This is never for drinking, but we regularly use all but the seawater for showering and bathing and, if it’s clean, to pre-rinse filthy dishes (like those following a roast dinner!). With just a stainless steel bucket, a fire, and access to clean water – you can have hot water exceptionally quickly. This is magic for a camping shower or bush bath for the kids – and it costs you nothing!

Seawater

Now, you might think that the only good thing about seawater is seafood and boating, but that’s not exactly true. We use it for cleaning the bulk of muck off our dishes regularly, before giving them a rinse in freshwater. It’s also the perfect thing for cleaning seafood and any rust-proof gear. If you have stubborn things to clean that need a bit of muscle, mix a little sand from the beach with some water, and you’ll be scrubbing for half the time – it works like magic!

Catch What You Can

Get creative if the weather turns during your trip – instead of cursing the rainwater, collect it! There are parts of Australia that receive a heap of rain, and a few creative people make use of this. If you have a tarp or awning, you can direct the water into a bucket. Some vans even have a setup to channel rainwater straight into a secondary tank.

Rainwater is brilliant and, providing you are careful with how it’s collected and used, a terrific way to keep your water topped up.

Many camp oven meals are one-pot wonders and use fewer dishes.

Conserve What You Have

One of my favourite ways to conserve water is to use what nature has given us. However, if that is not available, here are some tips to help save each precious drop of what you have stored!

Limit Dishes and use Spray Bottles

Anything you can do to reduce the number of dirty dishes you create will conserve water. One-pot meals are a huge winner for many reasons, but especially in regards to dishes and water consumption. Many people like to use a spray bottle filled with water, and a small squirt of detergent. For most plates and bowls, all that’s required is a small spray and a gentle wipe, followed by a dribble rinse with fresh water.

Baby Wipes

Although you need to dispose of them responsibly, baby wipes are one of the most compact and useful items when camping. Besides their obvious use for children, they are fantastic for cleansing yourself and general cleaning about camp. We always have some with us – not just for the kids, but for us adults too!

Cook on the Fire

We’ve fallen in love with cooking over the hot coals of a campfire! The meals are delicious, and there are often far fewer dishes which makes clean-up quick and easy. We use a small fold-out grill that is perfect for reducing our clean-up. Alternatively, the camp oven is a great option for one-pot meals too.

Put fires out with collected water.

Extinguish Fires with Collected Water

You should never leave your campfire as either hot coals, or still burning. Too many people have stood on old fires, and received terrible burns. Covering them up with loose dirt is not a solution either, as they can continue burning for a long time.

Applying water is the best way to extinguish a campfire. This can come from the ocean, a creek, river, or lake – or even your greywater works. Just don’t use your drinking water, if you can avoid it.

MSR Guardian Water Purifiers are another filtration system. Image: MSR

Make Your Own Water

Last but not least – it is even possible to turn dirty or brackish water into perfectly safe, drinkable H2O!

If it doesn’t contain salt, a filtration or chemical treatment can be used. Surprisingly, freshwater can be created from saltwater using an RO (Reverse Osmosis) unit. This is not for everyone, as having an RO system requires a lot of space and energy – and the initial setup can be costly. However, it is the ultimate way to create significant volumes of freshwater daily. Alternatively, if your requirements are minimal, purification systems like the MSR Guardian Water Purifier or the Grayl UltraPress are compact and portable solutions.

Some people travel full-time with impressive solar and battery systems. enabling them to operate their RO unit and provide endless fresh water on demand. That said, they do need to be camped near a water source – but even beach camping allows them this option.

A hot shower when camping is nothing short of amazing.

It Takes Time

New habits take time and practice to learn, and these methods shouldn’t feel like an enormous sacrifice or a significant inconvenience. Instead, they should simply be a part of camping that you learn to do and appreciate.

A hot shower when you are out bush or camping on the beach is nothing short of amazing – and it’s possible with the right water-saving methods in place!

Ben and Lauren also discuss water storage options for camping on the Snowys Camping Show:

Do you have any tips for saving water when camping? Let us know in the comments!

The post How to Save Water When Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Enjoying yourself in the outdoors always requires a bit of ‘prior preparation to prevent poor performance’. So, I’m sharing my ten tips on how to keep those pesky bugs at bay.

As the saying goes: if you think you’re too small to have an impact, try going to bed with a mosquito in your tent. Well, the same applies here: small efforts can have a huge impact!

Enjoying yourself in the outdoors always requires a bit of ‘prior preparation to prevent poor performance’. Credit: Hard Korr

1. Reduce the Appeal

It’s common for bugs to find their victim through scent. To reduce the chance of bugs coming for you, avoid the smelly deodorants, body sprays, creams, ointments, and other scent-inducing products! If the need for a wash arises, consider using a non-scented or naturally-scented soap, such as the Sea to Summit Wilderness Wash with Citronella. This will reduce how much odour you emit, and that alone can halve the number of flying pest attacks!

2. Spray & Cream

Probably the most common defensive strategy when attempting to keep the bugs at bay is the use of repellent spray and/or cream. There are plenty of options on the market, but my personal preference is for those with natural ingredients. These can sometimes be difficult to locate, in which case an option like Bushman’s is a reliable go-to.

When considering sprays and creams, ensure they have either low or no odour, and include at least 20% DEET (Diethyltoluamide). Furthermore, take notice of how long the product claims to remain effective, what bugs it claims to repel, and whether it’s water- or rub-resistant!

3. Dress for the Occasion

It makes sense, when you think about it… the more skin is exposed, the more there is for bugs to feast on. Even on a warm night, wearing a light windbreaker will reduce bites. Consider a Buff to protect your neck and face, or even just a pair of socks to protect your ankles and feet.

Consider a Buff to protect your neck and face. Credit: Buff

4. Candles & Coils

Candles and coils have been utilised for years as a barrier for bugs – however, there is a diversity of opinion regarding their effectiveness. In masking the scent produced by humans, they act more as a deterrent than a repellent.

In my experience, much of their effectiveness comes down to the ingredients in the candle or coil, where paraffin wax and 100% natural citronella oil seem to be the most trusted combo. Other factors include the density of candles or coils in the area you’re trying to deter the bugs from, and environmental conditions such as wind. 

5. Orange Lighting

Now – I’m no scientist, but I know that when considering light at camp, it’s the colour output that determines how much it attracts flying insects of all sorts.

A light’s colour output determines how much it attracts insects. Credit: Hard Korr

Bugs generally see three colours of light: ultraviolet (UV), blue, and green. Bright white lights are the most attractive for insects, whereas yellow or orange light (suggestive of sunlight) is less so for most. This explains the increased availability and popularity of yellow and orange camp lighting kits, such as this one from Hard Korr. The warm lighting provides interchangeable options, setting a nice atmosphere around camp and simultaneously reducing the attraction of bugs!

Yellow or orange light (suggestive of sunlight) is less attractive to most bugs. Credit: Hard Korr

The warm light sets a nice atmosphere around camp, simultaneously reducing bugs. Credit: Hard Korr

6. Zappers

In a similar light (excuse the pun), UV light can also be harnessed to attract bugs to low-voltage zappers, stopping them dead in their tracks.

These small, portable, and often rechargeable devices pack a pretty effective punch for their cost. I’m constantly amazed by how powerful and effective zapper lanterns (like this one) can be! Plus… I reckon there’s a sweet joy in hearing that sizzle of death every time it zaps a bug!

7. Bracelets

The jury is out on repellent bracelets. For me, they have never seemed to work – but I’ve adventured with others who swear by them.

The silicone bands are worn on your wrists and usually chemical-free, which appeals to those who are hesitant to spray aerosols or rub the cream onto their skin. While they are chemical-free, they tend to be a dispensable item given they often only last for 48 hours.

8. Gas-Heated Mats

A lightweight, compact, and shared option for the weight and space-conscious adventurer, these gas repellents utilise heat to activate a repellent-coated mat that provides over 20 square-metres of protection from bugs. The repellent mats include allethrin, a synthetic extract from the chrysanthemum flower. They last for up to four hours each, and replacement mats are available too.

A 100g Isobutane or Propane gas canister will provide over 90 hours of protection. However, just like candles and coils, it’s important to recognise that environmental conditions (such as wind) can reduce their effectiveness.

Thermocell mosquito repellers provide over 20 square-metres of protection from insects. Credit: Thermocell

9. Campfire Smoke

In locations where campfires are still permitted, smoke is another effective deterrent. When insects smell burning wood or leaves, their instinct is to flee the vicinity to protect themselves from danger (i.e. bushfires). In a sense, your campfire is just another fire to bugs, and that triggers a retreat!

The downside of embracing a campfire to repel insects is the inevitability that someone will always be in the direct line of smoke!

Campfire smoke is another effective deterrent. Credit: Ben Trewren

10. Nets for Beds & Screen Rooms

An option that avoids sprays, creams, smoke, and smells is a screen of some kind. Given that a tent or swag is a stagnant, sealed area of warm air and condensation (plus a live food source), it’s no wonder insects are desperate to get in!

The most obvious is what you might already have at camp, and keeping the fly-screen zipped up on your tent or swag throughout the day. Many swags and tents feature ‘superfine’, ‘ultrafine’, or ‘insect-proof’ mesh over the windows and doors. This doesn’t mean that the shelter is midge proof; in many cases, midges are small enough to invade mosquito- and other insect-proof mesh. Instead, ‘sandfly-proof’, ‘midge-proof’, or ‘no-see-um’ mesh is theoretically designed to be fine enough to restrict midges.

As well as this, the reliability of the zips and taped seams (to close off manufacturing defects like holes) will also help. Another recommendation is to spray the mesh of your tent, swag, or shelter with permethrin (one of the options that cause minimal to no damage to fabrics).

There are other products you can add to your kit, too. The simplest of the more individualised options is a head net. If that doesn’t suffice, consider a bed net for one, or a few. To maintain communal space, a screen tent is the best option.

The frustration that comes from these screens, however, is that everyone is confined to a relatively small space – and once somebody gives that up, they risk facing bugs that are no doubt ready to pounce!

Screen tents are the best option for maintaining a communal space. Credit: Oztent

To avoid sprays, creams, smoke, and smells, a screen of some kind also helps to deter insects. Credit: Sea to Summit

We’ve also discussed this topic on the Snowys Camping Show.

What about you? How have you fought the good fight in seeking peace and refuge from these relentless bugs? Got any tips, tools, or tricks not covered above?

The post 10 Ways to Repel Bugs While Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

1. Beer

Yes, you read that correctly – beer. While many hikers opt for lightweight, space-saving beverages, I can’t resist packing a couple of my favourite beers. On a good day there will be a bubbling cold creek close to camp to chill my beers a little, but often they are a touch on the warm side. Despite this, there’s nothing quite like enjoying a beer while taking in the breathtaking views at the end of a challenging hike. In fact my passion for beer is probably what got me into ultralight hiking in the first place.

My friends love pointing out that I’ll pay $1,000 for an ultralight tent and weigh my undies but the beers in my pack never get weighed. I have tried venturing out to alternatives like port or whiskey, but I just don’t enjoy them as much. Everyone has their own hiking style and there is no right or wrong way to hike. So long as you are getting out there and enjoying yourself, that’s the main thing!

I’ll pay $1,000 for an ultralight tent and weigh my undies but the beers in my pack never get weighed!

2. 3.5kg of Camera Gear for YouTube Videos

As a hiking and adventure enthusiast, I love capturing my experiences and sharing them with my community. My camera gear, including tripods, gimbals, and audio equipment, may add weight, but the reward of creating films of my adventures is well worth it. While out there filming, it forces me to look more closely at nature so I can try to capture its beauty and share it with the viewer. I believe hiking is a great way to deepen our love and curiosity for the natural world and hope to share that through my videos. The gift of sharing these videos with my YouTube community is definitely worth the 3.5kg weight penalty!

My camera gear may add weight, but the reward of creating films of my adventures is well worth it.

Everyone has their own hiking style, and there is no right or wrong way.

3. Bushcraft Knife with Ferro Rod

Starting a fire with a ferro rod might take longer than using a lighter, but there’s something deeply satisfying about the process. Using basic tools to create fire, I feel more connected to nature. I have to think more deeply about the fire I am going to make that evening; perhaps collecting tinder during the day and processing it into fine fibres that will take a spark easily. Nurturing that spark into a flame requires your full focus. I find it to be a meditative and calming activity. It helps you to appreciate the fundamentals of fire, which has been crucial to human survival for millennia. Watching the fire grow from a small spark into a warm, comforting blaze always lifts the spirits. For these reasons and so many more, I’ll always reach for my ferro rod and bushcraft knife when heading outdoors.

Starting a fire with a ferro rod might take longer than using a lighter, but there’s something deeply satisfying about the process.

4. Lightweight Trail Shoes (Altra Lone Peak)

I’m a massive fan of ditching the rigid heavy boots for minimalist trail shoes. Trail shoes are typically much lighter than boots, which can make a significant difference to your comfort and reduce fatigue, especially on long hikes or trail runs. I swear by the saying that a pound on your foot is equivalent to 5 pounds in your backpack. My trail shoes also have amazing breathability and ventilation, which keep my feet cool, preventing moisture build-up that can cause blisters. They also dry quickly if you get them wet. I don’t even bother to take my shoes off for stream crossings, which is safer and faster.

My trail shoes also tend to be more flexible and provide better freedom of movement for my feet and ankles. I love being able to feel the terrain under my feet; I feel more connected to the land I’m walking on, but it also gives me greater agility. Transitioning to minimalist shoes should be done gradually to allow your feet and lower legs time to adapt, as sudden changes in footwear can lead to discomfort or injury. Now that i’ve found trail shoes I’ll never go back to regular boots.

Trail shoes are typically much lighter than boots, which can make a significant difference to your comfort and reduce fatigue.

5. Toothbrush Tablets

To balance the weight of my beloved beer, I’ve invested in a heap of ultralight gear and one of these great discoveries is toothbrush tablets! These little tablets not only save me space and weight, they are also environmentally friendly. Many toothbrush tablets come in recyclable or biodegradable packaging, reducing the environmental impact of disposing of plastic toothpaste tubes. Additionally, the tablets themselves are often more environmentally friendly compared to traditional toothpaste, therefore leaving less harmful residues in the environment when you are hiking. Toothbrush tablets can also be used without water as you don’t really need to rinse your mouth after use, helping to conserve this valuable resource. I also really enjoy using toothbrush tablets – it took me a couple of different brands to find one I love, but now that I’ve found it I’ll never go back to regular toothpaste when outdoors!

These little tablets not only save me space and weight, they are also environmentally friendly.

Toothbrush tablets can also be used without water as you don’t really need to rinse your mouth after use.

In the world of hiking, connecting with nature in your own unique way is what makes the experience so special. While some may laugh at the contents of my pack, each item has a story and a purpose, adding to the enjoyment of my time outdoors. My favourite saying is: “hike your own hike’. Do what works for you, not what others do. I have a friend Julia who carries a very big and heavy pack. I initially thought she was crazy but now I just keep quiet and enjoy the chocolate pudding and hot cups of tea she provides along the walk.

My favourite saying is: ‘hike your own hike’. Do what works for you, not what others do.

What’s the weirdest item in your hiking pack? Let us know in the comments below!

The post ‘You’re Taking THAT?!’ – The 5 Weirdest Items in my Hike Pack appeared first on Snowys Blog.

School’s out, the weather is fine, and one can usually manage to score a couple of days away from work. It’s the perfect time to pile some gear into the back of the car, hit the road, and escape the concrete maze and city haze of suburbia.

To make the most of the balmy nights and clear skies, we’ve listed our top tips for warm-weather camping…

School’s out, the weather is fine, and one can usually manage to score a couple of days away from work. Image: Zempire

1. Orange Lighting

Bright white lights attract bugs like nobody’s business.

A great way to mitigate this is by illuminating your campsite with warm or orange lighting. This is less attractive to bugs, so will help to minimise their presence.

That said – don’t ditch the mosquito repellent!  

The warm hue of orange lights is less likely to attract bugs. Image: Korr Lighting

2. Light-Coloured, Loose, and Breathable Clothing

Look for long sleeves for sun protection, and choose fabrics that are light, fast-drying, and help regulate your temperatures (such as technical synthetics or merino wool).

In warm weather, wearing cotton is fine – but it could cause discomfort or chafing if you start to perspire, as it doesn’t dry quickly when wet.

Wear protective clothing to keep you cool. Image: Sea to Summit

3. Insect Protection

Camping close to a body of water means you don’t have to walk as far for quick dip – though it also brings you closer to the breeding ground for biting insects such as mosquitos and midges. The summer months are prime producing times for mosquitos, and they do so in water. With this in mind, put some distance between the water and your campsite.

Aside from mozzies and midges, flies can be a huge pain while cooking or relaxing outdoors. A quality head net will help to prevent you from losing your mind, or a screen room provides a peaceful, ventilated space.

Lastly, DEET or citronella are reliable, safe solutions to the swarms and stings. Alternatively, Thermacell mozzie repellers work well too.

Mozzies will be breeding near water in warm weather, so camp further away from water. Image: Coleman

4. Remove the Tent Fly

If your tent is constructed from synthetic material, it will become stuffy in warm weather. This is because it is not as breathable as a natural fibre, like cotton.

If you are certain rain isn’t on the cards, sleep with the fly off your tent to allow maximum airflow throughout. This will cool down the internal temperature and prevent the air from becoming stale.

An alternative is to camp with a canvas tent. The combination of synthetic and natural fibres allow for better breathability in warm weather.

If your tent and the weather allows, sleeping without the fly will add more air flow. Image: Oztent

5. Don’t Forget Electrolytes!

It’s common knowledge to stay hydrated during warmer weather, though it’s easy to forget to replenish your electrolytes. A loss of electrolytes can lead to dehydration and other more serious conditions. To avoid this, keep some hydration powder handy in your camp kitchen or hiking pack.

Be aware too that it is possible to drink too much water! This can result in ‘hyponatremia’, which is when there is either too much water or not enough sodium in your blood. Either way, watching your sodium and water levels is an important consideration during those summer escapades.

Some are even designed to be frozen and eaten as icy poles – so you can simply swap them in place of Zooper Doopers!

Carry and drink more water in warm conditions. Image: Sea to Summit

6. Freeze Your Food

…so your icebox or fridge doesn’t have to work as hard!

Pre-freeze you meals in advance before your camping trip. Not only will this save you time and effort at dinnertime, but it will also help relieve some of the strain from your fridge or icebox; in summer, they’ll be naturally battling against a higher ambient temperature.

For more tips on how to reduce energy use in your 12V fridge, check out Snowys’ blog writer Aaron Schubert’s article. Plus, if you’re looking to keep ice for longer in your icebox, these tips are helpful too.

A quality esky, icebox or fridge will make a world of difference. Image: Coleman

7. Bring Your Own Shade

Shade is not always available at the campsite, so be sure to bring the awning poles for your tent and set up some of your own. If your tent doesn’t feature an awning large enough, throw in a gazebo for extra coverage – or a tarp set up or compact fly as lighter options.

Having the option to set up your awning will add versatility and shade. Image: OZtrail

8. Cooling Towels or Bandanas

A super simple way to keep cool when kicking about outdoors in the summer is a cooling towel or neck tie.

Simply wet the towel and hang it around your neck. The water will evaporate slowly over time, cooling you down in the process. Another option is to first chill them in the fridge or Esky.

A portable fan will add fresh air flow on a still night. Image: Coleman

9. Circular Airflow in Your Shelter

On a hot, stagnant night, there often isn’t any airflow throughout your shelter. This can have it borderline impossible to achieve some decent shut-eye.

If you can’t catch a cool breeze – make one yourself.

Bring along a portable camping fan to set up in your tent or caravan, and open up any windows and doors. Leave the screens in place to create a circular airflow.

Wearing a hat will also keep you cooler at the campsite. Image: Oztent

10. A Hat and Sunscreen (Obviously)

Aside from protection from harmful UV rays, a broad brim hat also does wonders for keeping your head and shoulders cooler. Chuck one on when setting up and packing down your campsite, along with long-sleeved clothing, sunscreen, and sunglasses. Each are no-brainers during any outdoor activities.

Ben and Lauren chat more on how to keep cool while camping in the warmer weather on the Snowys Camping Show podcast.

What are your best summer camping tips? Let us know in the comments below.

The post Top 10 Tips for Camping in Summer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this article, we thought we would share the regular, occasional, and sporadic maintenance items and checks that we do to both protect our investment and keep us all safe.

We’ve taken our caravan to some pretty remote but amazing places already. Keeping it all in shape and operating correctly is very important for some happy campers.

A caravan moves around. Sometimes quite often, and sometimes over some pretty bumpy and corrugated roads (especially where we have been taking it)! As a result, things come loose; maybe they get knocked, or simply wear out. Knowing what to look for and what to service or maintain becomes very important.

Bringing the caravan home was an exciting day. It’s a big investment for anyone and you need to protect it.

We’ve broken up this article into three sections – regular, occasional, and sporadic maintenance. Why so vague? Well, it really depends on what you do with your caravan, where you take it, how often you use it, and how long you live in it.

For us – full-time on the road, exploring our country in some very remote and off-track places – there’s always lots to keep an eye on.

There’s plenty of challenging roads out there, not just for your car. The Outback Way, or Australia’s Longest Short Cut, kept us on our toes with plenty of caravan and car remains all around!

Regular Checks:

1. Connections

These are your umbilical cord connections to the caravan, and it’s important to know they are in good condition and working each time you set off from home or camp. Test your lights, test your brakes, test the electronic stability control, video, and any other technology or connections you may have in place. It’s boring – but it’s important!

Checking tyre conditions and pressures regularly is a must.

2. Air Pressures, Wheel Nuts, and Tyre Condition

The pressures of your tyres and their overall condition is very important with regards to safety. Tyres are made from rubber, designed to heat up and cool down to preserve them. If they have been sitting for some time, you really should be checking out the air pressure and overall condition. It’s also good to do this once a week or so if on the road, or more if you change pressures often or move through various weather extremes.

Also, check your wheel nuts! Lots of people lose their wheels to nuts coming off, so check they are tight and secure! We saw it twice in one trip, with wheel nuts the likely cause.

We have 3 x 100AH Batteries and a 3000W Pure Sine Inverter powering most of our caravan. We need to ensure everything is working and in good health.

3. Energy Sources

Your caravan will have a combination of gas, solar, and batteries. You need to make sure that the gas connections to your gas bottles are intact and without leaks. Use a spray bottle with water and detergent as you would on the BBQ at home to check. For more details on how to check gas appliances for leaks, head here. Make sure your solar panels are clean and the wire connections in place.

For your batteries, check out their health with a multimeter to ensure charging is working and, if in doubt, take it into a professional to test the overall health of your batteries. Make sure you give them a good, regular charge to maintain them too!

Although off-grid is our preference, plugging into power every now and then keeps our batteries in good condition.

Occassional Checks:

1. Plumbing

Your caravan will likely have one or more water tanks: a water pump to send the water around the caravan, and likely a hot water service. It will have a network of pipes between water outlets and the pump, and then some more to your grey water waste point. Check for any leaks, clean the pump pre-filter of any debris, and wash out your water tanks if you have filled up with any hard or poor water, to stop the bad build up in the tanks. Kids are great to send underneath to get to those hard to reach spots!

Children are good at getting in and under the caravan to identify leaks, cracks or other early problems!

2. The Undercarriage of the Caravan

In addition to the plumbing, you could also check your wheel bearings to ensure they are packed and intact, check your suspension, as well as any other cables or connections that are situated under the van. Identifying problems early helps reduce bigger issues and costs in the future.

3. Appliances and the Smoke Detector

Remember to defrost the fridge and check it is working to the correct temperatures. Check your smoke detector weekly, change the battery annually, and ensure any other appliances in the van are secure and functioning correctly.

All of our appliances get a good workout. We also ensure we test everything and inspect the cables for damage. We lost the microwave out of this spot on the Nullabor!

4. Doors, Latches, Handles, Locks, and Stabilisers

When a caravan moves, a lot of it shakes, bends, or has pressure applied. Dirt and dust get in, and sometimes even rocks too. Check all of your doors, latches, handles, any locks, and your stabilisers. Make sure function is correct and free, and clean and lubricate as required.

Sporadic Checks:

1. Hot Water Anode and Water Filter

Your hot water system may have an anode in it – many do. It’s a sacrificial piece of metal that’s designed to corrode faster than your hot water service itself. Every 12 months this should be changed to help protect an expensive piece of equipment! The water filters play an important role too. We have a separate water filter outside of the van when we fill up or connect to water, as well as one on the kitchen sink for filtering drinking water. These filters fill up fast, especially when you travel remotely or to places with harder water (like in Western Australia).

Check out the difference in the water filters! What a difference 6 months in WA makes. Very hard water over there, and very distinct colour differences.

2. Weights

Weights might be an odd one, but the payload of your caravan is there for a reason. There are also some rules and heavy fines in place for a serious safety subject. Things add up. One thing picked up here, another added – all can translate to real weights. Before we set off, we weigh our van and regularly check in to make sure we are within our legal limits and specifications.

We regularly get our car and caravan checked to ensure that our weights aren’t over. A lot of accidents and damage are caused by being overweight or off-balanced in terms of loads.

3. Rust, Mould, Ventilation, and Seals

Give your caravan a good, deep clean and wash. Look out for any rust or mould that might be showing early signs, and either treat or remove it. Likewise, check your van’s ventilation to ensure any filters or vents are clear, and that the seals on windows, doors, and other openings are clean.

You’ll be amazed at how and where dust gets into every nook and cranny. Just when you think you might have cleaned it all out, more appears!

By getting on top of your maintenance items and methods with a regular plan, you can greatly increase the life of a caravan – as well as its value. It’s like any investment: look after it, and it will look after you. There are some amazing places to see out there, and what we have quickly learned is that caravans can do anything and go anywhere!

Nothing but us and the outback! Look after your caravan and it will look after you.

Did we miss a key maintenance item you like to keep on top of? Please share it in the comments below!

The post Keep the Wheels Rolling – Caravan Care & Maintenance appeared first on Snowys Blog.

With worries about the family and in-laws, fitting in all the silly season shenanigans, and thoughts about what you didn’t achieve in the last year that you wanted to – you don’t need yet another article to make you feel bad.

This one is different, and I invite you over the holiday period to jump off the hamster wheel and ‘do’ with intentionality, ‘be’ more, relax, enjoy and consider your purpose and values when making plans, and maybe – just maybe – finish the year feeling good, and go into the holidays feeling excited about the possibilities. Not just for the holiday season, but for the year ahead.

Firstly though, I need to take a step back and explain a few concepts that I want to base this discussion on. Some very key concepts that really shape the way we take action, and the things we do.

Over the holiday period, jump off the hamster wheel and ‘do’ with intentionality, ‘be’ more, relax, enjoy, and consider your purpose and values when making plans.

Having, Being, and Doing

If you hang out with me enough, you’ll hear me talking about BE-ing, DO-ing, and HAVE-ing. Whenever we speak of motivation, goal setting, or trying to figure out how to move forward, we must consider these three concepts; starting with figuring out what we want to HAVE, we then figure out who we need to BE – and finally, we base our DO-ing on that.

Now we’ve got those basics down, let’s talk about using them to have the best holidays ever (oh, and be motivated… if that’s what you want!?).

Whenever we speak of motivation, we must consider these three concepts: ‘Have’, ‘Be’, and ‘Do’.

The ‘Have’

What do you want to HAVE this holiday season? What do you want to achieve?

Maybe there’s a particular hike you want to go on, or a new tramp you’ve been meaning to try and you’ll have some time to over the holidays. Maybe you just want to have a relaxing holiday break, camping somewhere with books and friends, feeling relaxed, happy, and free.

Let’s also keep on topic and say that you do want to have the motivation to continue moving towards a specific goal, in a time full of indulgence, festivities, and holidays. Or perhaps you just want to have peace, calm, and joy in whatever you do – that’s cool too.

Either way, you know what you want to HAVE. Perfect.

Now to HAVE the thing you want to HAVE… who do you need to BE?

What do you want to HAVE this holiday season? What do you want to achieve?

The ‘Be’

When we consider that all the ‘doing’ we do comes from our thoughts, beliefs, and values, this step is the vital one for your success.

The question to ask yourself here is: to HAVE what I want to HAVE, what thoughts and beliefs do I need to hold about myself, the situation, and my goal? In other words, what would that future self who has achieved the goal think and feel? What would they value? How do they show up?

If you want to have that awesome camping trip, try that new tramp, or complete that specific track, you have to believe that you have the time, skills, and knowledge to do it. You have to believe you are capable of doing it, or learning to do it.

This step is about thinking the thoughts that the person who has the thing, thinks! If you want to have motivation, you have to believe you can be motivated, that you can prioritise the thing that’s important to you, and that you are, in fact, motivated!

If you want to have that awesome camping trip, try that new tramp, or complete that specific track, you have to believe that you have the time, skills, and knowledge to do it.

The ‘Do’

When you’ve got a good list of thoughts and a good list of beliefs, you move to the final step: the DO-ing.

What does that person DO? How is that different from the person you are now, and the thoughts and beliefs that might be driving your behaviour currently?

Maybe these days you think there is no time, it’s too hard, you can’t fit it in, and your family won’t understand. Eeeekkk…

Continuing down the spiral of doom, you don’t think you are capable of trying that new tramp, and you don’t believe you have the skills to tackle that new trail. Or, in regards to that relaxing camping trip reading books, you tell yourself you’re no good at relaxing, or it’s a waste of time.

None of this will get you where you want to go – you’ll likely end up feeling bad and heading into the new year thinking you just haven’t got it in you to have what you want.

But you, my friend, now know better!

You know that you need to just try on the thoughts and beliefs that align with what you want to have – and by doing that, you can stay motivated through the holiday season. Heck, you can go one better and set yourself up for a bangin’ new year with your new superpower of BE-ing!

So, you’ll trade the ‘no time’ excuse for ‘I can make time’. Gone is the ‘too hard’, and ‘not capable’, replaced instead with ‘I can learn’ and ‘I’m probably way stronger than I think… it would be fun to find out!?’.

No more spirals of doom – instead, intentionally BE-ing from a place of possibility! HECK YES!

Just try on the thoughts and beliefs that align with what you want to have – and by doing that, you can stay motivated through the holiday season.

The Outcome

The cool thing about starting this process now is that you can create some space over the holiday season to really tune into what is important to you. You can start to show up for yourself and create the experiences you want to create.

So, let’s DO the things that are meaningful in moving us towards our goals, and enjoy the journey. Create the reality you want this holiday season, and have the experiences you want to have by BE-ing the person who has those experiences.

This might just be your best holiday season yet!

Quick Bites

The 3-step process for staying motivated and doing cool stuff this holiday season

Decide what you want to HAVE that is really important to you this holiday season. For example:

• Completing a cool hike or tramp that will stretch your skills
• Camping in a new spot, chilling, and relaxing with friends and family
• Keeping your training going through the holiday period

Figure out the thoughts and beliefs you need to have the goal; who you need to BE. For example:

• I can make time for this
• I am motivated!
• I have the skills I need, or I can learn them
• I can be brave
• My family will understand and support me
• I am capable of anything I put my mind too
• I can find a way

Take action from the place of those thoughts and beliefs, and base the DO-ing on them. For example:

• Actively planning your calendar with the things that are important to you
• Doing the thing you want to be motivated to do!
• Booking the holiday or track, and boldly going to do it
• Researching gaps in your knowledge
• Reaching out to people who can help
• Saying ‘no’ to the things that aren’t aligned with what you want
• Talking to family and friends, and telling them what you want to do – and why!
• Surrounding yourself with people who are achieving what you want to achieve
• Noticing ways of thinking that do not support your goals, and actively changing them

The cool thing about starting this process now is that you can create some space over the holiday season to really tune into what is important to you.

I’m at @runliketanya on socials. Tag me and hashtag #possibilityproject #whatelseispossible, so I can see what you are up to and share the adventures!

The post How to Stay Motivated During the Holiday Season appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Before we begin, it’s important to remember that every kid and every family is different – so the tips mentioned in this blog may not work for everyone. Some of you may have already been through the camping stage with kids under five and have had different experiences. If this is true, comment your ‘dos’ and ‘dont’s’ in the comments below – we’d love to hear them!

Ben and Lauren also discuss camping with kids on the Snowys Camping Show:

Camping with children can be one of the most rewarding and memorable experiences. Image: Zempire

Travel Short Distances and Take Regular Breaks

Most kids don’t like to sit still in a car for hours on end. Yes, books, music, drawing, and iPads can help entertain them – but the younger they are the less help they are. We’ve found the best method of travelling is to break the trip up into short sections of no more than two hours.

If your kids are still having multiple sleeps a day try and cover the most distance while they’re asleep. Older kids will appreciate a good break at a roadside playground, so factor these into your planned route. If longer car expeditions are new to your family, it’s also a good idea to plan ahead by searching for any day trips on the way to your destination, so that you can find a suitable campground or park for a short break.

Two hours on the road, and 30 minutes to an hour break is a loose rule to adopt. Sure, we cover fewer kilometres in a day – but as we get older, we enjoy the rest. It’s important for cutting down on driver fatigue too.

Listen to Audiobooks

Downloading audiobooks is a fantastic idea for a long car trip. Many libraries offer free e-books which you can borrow before you leave. There’s also the option of streaming apps like Stan and Netflix, which allow you to download and view offline without the use of data.

These are a popular option for a rainy day when there’s not much else to do. I’d recommend using earphones, as it may mean less arguing over what to watch – and should focus the children’s attention while you get a break too!

Break a long drive up into smaller, more manageable sections. Or, if you’re feeling a bit tired, let the baby drive! Image: Xan Holyoak

Caravan Parks are a Good Place to Start

When it comes to your first trip away, there’s nothing wrong with a caravan park if you don’t want to start with a drop-pit loo experience. Most will have a playground and a pool, which is a social hub for both parents and youngsters.

A good camp kitchen is also a bonus if you’d rather not cook at your campsite, or you just crave some adult conversation to maintain your sanity over a glass of something strong!

Familiarise Them with Each Site

No matter how hard you try, you can’t keep an eye on them all the time. A quick chat in the car on arrival can help everyone’s anxiety levels. Walk around the campsite as soon as you’re set up. This way, everyone is familiar with the place, and where everything is.

Explain the Park Rules

Caravan parks will always have a few rules, so ensure that you discuss these and make sure everyone understands any no-go zones and where they should and shouldn’t play. If you’re camping in the great outdoors, set a few physical boundaries and point out any dangerous areas to be wary of.

Two hours on the road, and 30 minutes to an hour break is a loose rule to adopt. Image: Xan Holyoak

Establish Where Basecamp Is

When your kids go off with their new friends, check that they know how to get back to camp before they head off. If you’ve got a site number, make sure you tell them. If not, ensuring that they know what kind of car, tent, or van you’re in makes their return much easier when they ask someone for help.

Plan Meals and Snacks

Pack plenty of water and healthy snacks that are easy for kids to eat in the car. These could include carrot sticks, trail mix, popcorn, dried fruit, muesli bars, yoghurt pouches, and fruit.

I would recommend buying a double insulated bottle for each family member. You can refill your bottles using tap water or with a 10-litre water container from a supermarket.

Before doing a grocery shop, write down a list of snacks and meal ideas. Make sure the meals are quick and easy, as this will save room in your fridge and also reduce wastage.

Pack plenty of water and healthy snacks. Image: Amie Duncan

Simple Meal Ideas

Breakfast:

• Cereal and milk (Coconut + Cranberry Weetbix blends are favourites. Chop up some banana and strawberries to throw on top)
• Yoghurt and fruit, and/or muesli (yoghurt pouches are a great healthy option for kids, and can also be used as snacks for the drive)

Lunch:

• Wholemeal sandwiches or wraps (peanut butter and honey, vegemite and cheese, BBQ chicken anda avocado, etc.)

Dinner:

• Ravioli (add pesto or tomato-based premade pasta sauces)
• Wholemeal rolls or wraps (add steak, chicken, falafels, or sausage, etc. – plus salad and cheese)

Snacks:

• Carrot and cucumber sticks, dips, breadsticks, nuts and trail mix, rice crackers, plain popcorn, individually wrapped cheese, dried fruits, muesli bars, yoghurt pouches, and fruit (grapes, apples, and bananas are great).

Also, don’t forget to pack plenty of water.

Expect the Unexpected

If you get stuck on an isolated 4WD track in the blistering sun, it can be really hard to find enough shade to keep your little ones cool. Always make sure that you have sunblock, water, hats, and a shelter (such as a quick-shade, car awning, or umbrella).

Or, if you’re stuck for so long that it becomes dark and cold, then you’ll want to make sure you have warm clothes, blankets, and closed shoes.

Do your research and find the perfect car seat. Image: Amie Duncan

Invest in a Comfy Car Seat

Young kids don’t enjoy sitting still for long, let alone being strapped in! If you plan on spending lots of time travelling in the car, do your research and find the perfect car seat. You want your kids to be comfy enough to fall asleep if they need to.

Big, Easy-to-Pitch Tents are Key

There is nothing worse than being stuck at camp in cold, wet weather, and not having the space to keep the kids entertained! With the amount of stuff you end up bringing for the kids, you need ample space to store and organise it (so you don’t keep tripping over everything)!

Let’s face it, roughing it in remote locations tends to slow down a bit when the kids come along. Rugged, out-of-the-way locations are replaced by caravan parks with jumping pillows, pools, and playgrounds. It’s nice to maintain a bit of privacy by having a large tent, so you can get changed or have a space to chill out.

Kids get to learn about and experience things when camping that they just can’t at home or in the classroom. Image: Emma McPherson

Invest in a Porta Potti

Once the kids start toilet training, having your own toilet becomes a huge advantage. Running across the campground with your three-year-old with a crowning ‘number two’ isn’t adding to the enjoyment of your camping trip!

The convenience of having a portable chemical toilet around the side of your tent can’t be overestimated. Toilet training can be an extremely difficult process. A Porta Potti can change this. The novelty of using a new, funny-looking toilet can mean your toddler wants to go every hour or so.

Glow Stick Night Lights

This can help if your little one wakes up in the middle of the night. They can find their toys, blanky, or water bottle, and get themselves back to sleep without calling for you.

Not only are glow sticks fun and something for the kids to play with when it gets dark, but hanging a couple in the tent above their heads gives them enough light to see if they need to without keeping them awake.

Swags are the perfect bedding option for kids. Image: Barry Peters

Swags – The Perfect Bed for Kids

One of the most frequent questions we get asked at Snowys is what bedding we recommend for young kids.

An Oztrail Biker Swag is compact in size, and just rolls in the tent without the hoops and poles.

Bedding can be rolled up inside, keeping set-up time quick and simple. During the day, just pull the canvas right up so your child can run and jump around without getting their bedding dirty. If it’s really cold at night, they’ll sleep with the canvas pulled right up to trap in as much warmth as possible.

Then there are the Coleman Hybrid Hooded sleeping bags, rated from -5 to 5 degrees. Always choose a bag that’s warmer than you think you’ll need.

If your kids are still quite small, fold the sleeping bag in half so they don’t wiggle down too far. This puts more padding and insulation underneath and makes their bed cosier.

Slip, Slop, Slap and Cover Up

We’ve all heard it, but it’s easy to get complacent, especially about re-applying sunscreen. Ensure the sunscreen is broad-spectrum (blocks both UV-A and UV-B), sunglasses are good quality, and the hat has a broad brim.

Loose fitting, lightweight, long-sleeve tops, long pants, and shoes protect them from sunburn. They also help avoid insect bites and are better protection against snakes.

Slip, slop, slap! Image: Amie Duncan

Drink, Drink, Drink

Provide your kids with drink bottles that they can carry easily, maybe on a lanyard or belt. Let them decorate it with stickers to personalise it, and remind them to top it up regularly.

Take Note of the Geography

Before your kids go exploring, ensure there are no unforeseen hazards. Cliffs, water, and old mine shafts can be especially dangerous, so be aware.

Stay Vigilant

Don’t let kids, especially young ones, wander too far from camp. In some environments, every direction looks the same, especially in desert or forest areas.

As a good rule of thumb, ensure the campsite is always in view.

Be Aware of Area-Specific Hazards

Some areas have their own specific hazards. As well as disguised dingo traps (like some found at Dog Fence), another hazard to be aware of is bait aid for foxes, dingoes, and feral cats. All these precautions are simple and part of the brilliant learning that comes from time out in the bush.

Keep an eye out for dingoes. Image: Barry Peters

Use a UHF Radio

Handheld UHF radios are now quite inexpensive, so give one to your kids – they’ll love it!

Check-in with them regularly, and carry one yourself to monitor communication. This will enable them to feel quite adventurous, but with the knowledge that they are in contact.

Just remember, kids should not be scared – just prepared!

The Kids Will Get Dirty!

Knowing you’ll cope when the kids get dirty is a great start – just grab a stash of darker clothing and don’t worry about it! Cleanliness is the last thing you need to stress about when the kids are happy.

If you think you’ll need to do laundry when on the road, pack some detergent, and make sure you have some gold coins for the machine and pegs for the clothesline. Get in early to do your laundry so that you can have the load hung out. This also means that you can enjoy the rest of the day too.

An op-shop is a good place to select a camping wardrobe. It’s also a treasure trove of inexpensive toys and books to take. Plus, if you think you’ll go to town or out to dinner, you can always pack some ‘good clothes’ if you feel that you need to.

Let’s face it – the kids WILL get dirty! Image: Emma McPherson

Bring Toys

Allow the kids to bring some small toys that are suitable for playing with around the camp. Kids can play in the dirt with cars, trucks and action figures for hours on end. Provide a tarp that can be laid out for playing card games, board games, or with other toys requiring a cleaner area.

That said, kids at camp run around till lunch like lunatics – then disappear with other campers’ kids till dinner! They don’t always play like they do at home, so likely need only half of their usual gear. Some will spend hours building a sand mine with sticks, stones, and a mound of sand. You don’t always need to overload your vehicle with toys and gadgets, a couple for each child will be fine – and maybe their bikes, if you’ve got the space.

Go for Walks

This is especially good for younger kids. Point out interesting things around them, teach them the safety of keeping the campsite in view, let them use a UHF radio to talk to someone back at camp, and let them do a talk to the group about what they saw.

Take the kids for walks, and point out interesting things around them. Image: Barry Peters

Watch Out for Animal Tracks

Help the kids to identify what animals are nearby:

• How many legs?
• How many toes?
• Where do the tracks lead?
• How far apart are the footsteps?
• How big might the animal be?

Have a bird and animal reference book handy to help identify the animal.

Be Animal Aware

Teach your kids to watch from a distance. While we don’t want to discourage the fascination kids have for the animals they see around them, it is important to ensure they understand that we are in their territory and they can become frightened by us. Some animals such as dingoes may be protecting their young and can attack if we get too close.

Look out for animal tracks! Image: Barry Peters

Get Them Involved

Kids love to help out! Try to include them in everything, from packing the car to setting up the tent. It may take twice as long but there won’t be anywhere near as much complaining from boredom.

Make sure they have defined responsibilities when setting up and breaking camp. This keeps them involved and gives you time for your tasks. Explain to kids why you do things a certain way so they can learn while they’re helping. Don’t forget to acknowledge their efforts so that they feel a sense of accomplishment and will happily help again next time.

If the kids are old enough too, get them to plan and make at least one meal for the family. Let them find a recipe, buy the ingredients, and prepare the meal. Perhaps even do a miniature ‘MasterChef’ by taking some photos/video while they explain what they are doing.

Take Photos

Young kids can take photos with the relatively cheap and automatic digital cameras available. Even an old phone with a built-in camera could be used.

Encourage them to take photos of things of interest, and later make a presentation on the computer. You will be amazed at the skills even very young children demonstrate with programs such as PowerPoint.

Take photos for the children to create a presentation with later on. Image: Emma McPherson

Fly Kites

Modern kites fold up into a very small space and are easy to carry. Ensure that they are used in a good, clear space to avoid having to untangle and retrieve a kite stuck high up in a tree!

Don’t Drain the Treats or Rewards Too Quickly!

Pack these separately, so that they’re not discovered earlier than you wish! Keep some up your sleeve in a hidden spot for when a reward or distraction is required, or maybe if you need one for yourself!

Family car games can help stave off boredom! Image: Xan Holyoak

On the Road: Family Car Games

The Alphabet Game

Objective:
Work through the alphabet from A-Z with each occupant in the car naming something from the topic to match their corresponding letter.

Method:
Begin by selecting a topic. Something as simple as having to name a type of animal, a capital city, a country or more in-depth topics such as names of fashion designers or a clothing range.

Next, take it in turns (generally clockwise) to name something from the mutually agreed topic in alphabetical order. For example, the chosen subject may be, name a country, which would generally begin with the first person (usually the driver in our situation) answering with Australia or Angola. The person next-in-line would then respond with something like Botswana or Brazil, then the third with Canada or Cambodia and so on.

Rules:
The Alphabet Game sounds relatively simple; however, when you add some weird and wonderful topics into the mix, it does become a little tricky and is always good for a laugh. Further still, if you include a time limit (e.g. ten seconds), it elevates the challenge and creates further entertainment. Watch out for geographic slips too – sometimes you can catch a player out when they incorrectly answer with a city instead of a country!

If you’re nowhere near approaching traffic, you could choose themes that suit your environment. Image: Xan Holyoak

First to Find

Objective:
To earn the most points or rewards by being the first to find the nominated object.

Method:
Each person appoints an item which all occupants must look for along the way. The driver starts the ball rolling, eg. I would determine that everyone, including myself, finds a green Volkswagen beetle.

The next person in line could suggest that we all find a blue tractor but include the specification for it to be driving along the road, the third could be a fishing boat, towed or stationary (a tough find for those landlocked Outback journeys). Once a person finds one of the nominated objects along the trip, they receive a point or reward. The person who initially suggested the located object then chooses a new item to find, and the game continues.

Rules:
There are no defined rules for this game, and only your imagination limits you. You can have this game continue for days, sometimes even weeks, where just minutes from home, someone will shout out-of-the-blue, ‘look! There’s that pink stretch hummer filling up at the petrol station!’

This is a great game to stave off boredom and can be played wherever you go. So, if you’re nowhere near approaching traffic, you could choose themes that suit your environment: ‘first to find… a kangaroo, a wedge-tailed eagle or its nest, a wombat hole, a sign…?’

‘Pick a Colour or Company’ is not a game to play when you are off the beaten track. Image: Xan Holyoak

Pick a Colour or Company

Play this game at any time, but it does require approaching traffic – so perhaps save it for highways, motorways, or the industrial areas skirting the city outers.

Objective:
The race is on to accumulate the highest number in a set timeframe.

Method:
Each person chooses a vehicle colour or car company, then counts how many cars they see on the road in that colour or by that particular manufacturer, within the set time or distance. For example, the driver may pick the colour blue and suggest that they will see more blue cars over the next hour than any other colour.

Alternatively, the driver may suggest that there will be more Toyotas on the road before entering the next town. It requires a bit more attention and vehicle knowledge, but it’s a fun way to learn about the makes, models, and emblems of car manufacturers.

Rules:
Place parameters around colours, so that no one is allowed to choose the most common shades of white, black and red. For added interest, you could include types of paint finish, e.g. metallic, pearl, etc.

This game is not one to play when you are off the beaten track. However, it is a great way to keep everyone alert and interested in what is up ahead.

‘Tootie Frootie’ is a game where parents can choose to be involved or have a break. Image: Kevin Laminto

Tootie Frootie

A game invented by kids for kids, and it’s one where parents can choose to be involved or have a break and indulge in their own quiet time.

Objective:
Initially, this game was a spin-off from Pick a Colour or Company, with the competition set on who can create the most colourful fruit salad within a specified timeframe, i.e. counting each winning point.

Method:
Determined by the colour, each vehicle becomes a type of fruit or an ingredient within the bowl of fruit salad. Feel free to get creative and use your interpretations based upon your favourite fruits, or the kid’s favourites.

Here are some suggestions to kick you off:

• a purple vehicle becomes a grape
• orange is an orange
• yellow is a banana
• green is lime, and
• pink is a strawberry

When an ‘approved’ coloured car is spotted, the person calls out the name of the fruit and if first, they earn a point. If there are multiple simultaneous calls over the same car, thus a piece of fruit, the players either each receive points or the round becomes void.

Rules:
Similar to the previous game, we omit the most popular colours of white, black, and red. For this game, we also ‘ban’ silver-coloured cars for the same reason.

These family-friendly games are not only a great way to stave off boredom, but they also ensure that the family who plays together, stays together. And if you need a few extra supplies for your trip, check out our range of kids gear to suit your favourite little people.

Short or long drives, car games are a great way to entertain the kids without devices. Image: Xan Holyoak

Camping with Kids: An Insight From Ben

Camping used to be simple. A two man tent, a couple of bags with essentials, a fridge with some food and beer, cooking gear, two seats, and a table.

We’d sometimes drive as far as the 4WD track would let us, before packing our rucksacks and walking the rest of the way to some far-out location away from anything remotely civil.

What Changed?

Our beautiful daughter came into the world.

‘That’s okay. We’ve lost a bit of space on the back seat for a child restraint and box full of toys, and we need more space to sleep. Plus more room for food and drink. But we’re still going camping. I’ll just have to embrace some changes – just not push as far.’

So, we upgraded to a family dome tent, another camp mat, and a sleeping bag. Plus, we added an icebox to our kit.

…Then we realised we need to provide more shade to make things comfortable during the day, and if everyone is going to enjoy camping we need more seats. AND to upgrade the bush toilet.

So, we added a 4WD awning, another camp chair, and a toilet seat.

As your family grows, your car, tent, and kit will grow too! Image: Robyn Jay, Flickr

…Then our family grew again

Three years on, and our family becomes four with the birth of our second daughter.

Now we’ve lost all the back seat space to child restraints and toys, toys, toys! We need to take the port-a-cot, more food, more water, another bag of clothes, and more facilities to store rubbish.

The boot is full and it’s taking a long time to tie everything securely onto the roof rack!

So we added a rooftop bag. Surely that’s enough? We may need to add another camp chair in the not-too-distant future, but I can accommodate for that on the roof.

Turns out young kids don’t like creepy crawlies either, and I’ve avoided the topic of my wife being attacked by mosquitoes every evening for far too long now.

I must embrace change. So, we added a mesh room that clips in under our 4WD awning.

Our Current Set-Up

Now, by the time I’ve set up a family tent, three mats, and a port-a-cot, plus dug bush toilet, checked the bush toilet for stability, extended the 4WD awning, attached the screen room, set up the camp table and chairs, created a camp kitchen, and conducted a full pest inspection to ensure we are as free as we can be from anything resembling an insect – I’m well and truly ready for a beer.

What used to be a 15-20-minute set-up that took equally as long to pack, is now an hour-long set-up that takes an entire day to prepare for!

That said, I wouldn’t have it any other way. Watching kids explore their surroundings, observe the resident sleepy lizard, do some stargazing, and wake up to the sound of birds are some of the best things in the world.

…And it’s not like I’m in a rush to set things up anyway.

A school holiday trip is fun, challenging at times, and rewarding! Image: Emma McPherson

Got teenagers?! That’s a whole new ball game. Ben and Lauren discuss camping with teenagers on the Snowys Camping Show:

Any tips we missed? Comment below!

The post Camping with Young Kids appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Hello fellow outdoor adventurers! I’m thrilled to introduce myself and share a little about my world of hiking, solo explorations, YouTube and television adventures, and a deep passion for all things nature and environmental conservation. So grab your favourite trail snack, spark up the JetBoil, and let’s embark on this journey together.

I’m an environmental scientist who is passionate about creating YouTube content focused on equipment, techniques, and hiking. Being in the great outdoors brings me immense happiness and my goal is to help anyone else looking to deepen their connection with nature. I firmly believe that spending time in nature yields significant mental health benefits, and by nurturing our connection with the natural world we can inspire greater efforts to protect the environment.

I have a deep passion for all things nature and environmental conservation. Image: Elsie Percival

Solo Hiking

Throughout my journey, I’ve had the privilege of hiking numerous trails across Australia, including the Cape to Cape, Larapinta, Jatbula, and the Great South West Walk. However, my favourite hiking experience was an informal 700-kilometre trail that follows the New South Wales coast from Sydney to Mallacoota in Victoria, often called the Great South Coast Hike. I had to plan the route I’d take each day, including working out how to cross the many rivers along the way. Sometimes I’d get lucky and I could hitch a lift with a local fisherman or jet ski rider, but other times I had to inflate my airpad and paddle across with my backpack. These days I love off-tack walking around NSW, especially Morton National Park. The self-reliance and the profound connection with nature that solo hiking offers is addictive. However, I also find a lot of joy in car camping with my loved ones, sharing the experience of connecting in nature with them.

I’ve had the privilege of hiking numerous trails across Australia. Image: Jimmy Walsh

My Channel

Capturing the emotions of my hiking adventures and sharing them with the world is something I love doing. On my YouTube channel, I document my hikes, and try to capture the essence of what it’s like to be out there, the stunning views, wildlife encounters, the highs and lows of hiking. I’m also passionate about helping people get outdoors, so I share videos on hiking skills and equipment reviews – from how to go to the toilet outdoors, to what’s in my pack and how to dehydrate your own food. I love making these videos. From the discussion that these videos generate, I’ve also learnt a heck of a lot from the YouTube community.

Want more on that? Ben and Lauren sit down with Kate Grarock in Episode 55 of the Snowys Camping Show:

Bush Blitz

When I’m not out hiking, I’m an expedition Leader at Bush Blitz. We travel to remote parts of Australia looking for new species of plants and animals. My work revolves around learning more about the natural world, which aligns perfectly with my love for hiking and nature. We work with a range of land managers and it’s so special to be in a County with Traditional Owners and see their connection to the land. This work helps me realise there is so much more to learn about the natural world and that’s exciting. I’m dedicated to understanding our environment and advocating for its protection.

My work revolves around learning more about the natural world, which aligns perfectly with my love for hiking and nature. Image: Jimmy Walsh

On my YouTube channel, I document my hikes and try to capture the essence of what it’s like to be out there.

‘Alone Australia’

One of the highlights of my outdoor journey was the opportunity to test my survival skills on the SBS television show ‘Alone Australia’. Ten people were dropped in the wild in lutruwita (Tasmania) in winter – all alone, with ten items to survive for as long as they could. I had to build my own shelter, find my own food, and self document it all with a camera and a couple of GoPros. It was both a deeply rewarding and challenging experience. Witnessing the impact I had on that small patch of land was eye-opening to me as an environmental scientist. When do we ever camp in one spot more than a few nights? I very quickly had to start walking further and further to harvest plants for food and collect firewood. It was shocking to think about the impact we must have in our modern day lives, when I was seeing significant impacts in my little area after a few days. Sadly, we are so disconnected from the environment and our impacts in our modern day lives – for example, we don’t see where our rubbish gets taken or how our power is generated.

My time on ‘Alone’ was truly life changing. In our fast-paced lives we seldom get time to stop, think, and reflect on how we are living our lives and what, if anything, we might change. Living without basic things such as running water, a bed, food, or even people was incredibly powerful. It helped me appreciate everything I have in the modern world. It has also deepened my connection to nature. I love getting outdoors whenever I can.

In our fast-paced lives we seldom get time to stop, think, and reflect on how we are living our lives and what, if anything, we might change. Image: Elsie Percival

Watch This Space…

I have recently started a project to help people get out into nature. I knew when I wanted to start hiking there was a very steep learning curve around what gear I needed, how to plan a trip, and how to stay safe. So I want to help break down some of these barriers so people can enjoy their time outdoors. Seeing the joy people get from being in nature is what inspires me to keep working hard. I believe hiking is a great way to deepen our love and curiosity for the natural world.

So get out there and get curious about all the amazing places we have here in Australia. What do you love most about getting outdoors?

The post Introducing Kate Grarock appeared first on Snowys Blog.

One small but important consideration is the gear we need, and how we can ensure it performs during our time away. The frustrating catch is that we spend large amounts of hard-earned money on products that, in the pursuit of our adventures, can at some point break or become damaged. However, this is when the creative fun begins!

Having a toolkit is a pretty handy addition to any setup, be that in your hiking pack, the storage shed, or your car boot.

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies 

Why is a Toolkit Important?

These toolkits are invaluable for the next time you’re faced with a camping obstacle that needs to be overcome – whether it be trying to peg into solid ground, getting a fire going in wet and windy conditions, or fixing something that has snapped, ripped, leaked, or punctured. Toolkits can save you lots of money, as it changes your approach; you can find a creative solution with what’s in your toolbox, which can save you from reaching for your credit card.

Whether you’re kilometres from home, at your favourite campsite, or just back after a memorable trip, here is a range of items you should consider keeping in your toolkit. This will ensure you can get back to doing what you love with the gear you love, for a lot less than if you were to replace it.

Toolbox or Bag?

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Whilst it’s easy to get carried away here, aim small because you don’t want this to consume valuable space which can be taken up by other gear.

Solid and durable tool boxes work great for vehicle camping, whereas soft bags like the Blacksmith Camping Supplies tool bag and or Sea to Summit pouch are fantastic for lighter-weight adventures.

A well thought out toolkit can save you plenty of cash and will help make sure your trip runs smoothly. Image: Ben Trewen

Consumables

Once you’ve decided on the size of your tool box or bag, you can then start working on what consumables you might want.

Duct Tape

Capable of many uses, duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be repaired or rejoined. Covering holes and repairing tears are just some of its many purposes.

Cable Ties

Like duct tape, cable ties can be used to re-attach or hold things together. Organising cables, ropes or hoses, closing opened food packets, locking tubs or bags, and mending broken hooks and loops on a tent – to name only a few uses.

Lubricant

It might be a screw that has gone tight, a pin that won’t release, or a pole that can’t extend. Having a lubricant spray like WD-40 available will ensure you can get out of sticky situations easily.

Glue/Sealer

Your shoe sole might be coming apart, your tent seam might be leaking, or the sleeping pad valve may be seeping air. Fixing tasks like these and many others requires a strong, adhesive, and fast drying glue to get the job done.

Having a solid set of consumables in your kit will make small repairs easy. Image: Ben Trewen

Repair Tape

A form of glorified duct tape, repair tape is transparent, very adhesive, and perfect for mending precious items of gear. It might be a tear in your tent fly, a rip in your rain jacket, or a slit in your hiking pack. Repair tape is designed to bring your gear back to life whilst still looking somewhat new or at least undamaged.

Sewing Kit

If repair tape can’t fix the rip in your rain jacket, maybe sewing it up can. Whether the seam in your pants gives way, the buttons on your waistband pops or the visor on your hat un-ravels, having a sewing repair kit can take care of all these basic sewing jobs. It can also prevent issues from becoming worse.

Paracord

Easy to source, super strong to use, and small enough to carry, paracord is fantastic for all kinds of use. It can be used to reinforce your tent, secure your tarp, hang something from a tree, create a clothesline, tow something to your camp, or secure something so it doesn’t budge. The options with this versatile rope are endless.

Hexamine Tablets

Hexamine tablets burn smokeless-ly, don’t liquify, and leave no trace of burning. They have a high-energy density, making them fantastic as either an emergency stove or as a supercharged fire-lighter.

Duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be re-joined. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies

Tools

The next lot of items to consider are your tools. It’s important to remember that the goal is to include multi-purpose gear which can be used across a range of applications. Here’s what makes a good list:

Swiss Army Knife or Multi-Tool

When it comes to multi-purposeful tools, having a multi-tool on hand like the Leatherman Surge makes perfect sense. With 21 tools and a sturdy feel in the hand, it’s a good choice when tackling any adventure. There aren’t many unique tasks that this tool can’t play a solving role in.

The Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

It’s like opening Christmas presents, as you explore all the different functions this little beauty can perform. Twenty-five altogether, in a compact 9cm body that weighs in at just 155gm. The size and weight are the winning factors for undertaking activities such as bushwalking, where it’s usually slipped into the pocket of a pair of shorts or the outside pocket of a pack. Use a lanyard to carry it in pockets, and attach that to a belt too. That way, you can’t lose the knife but can quickly retrieve it for use. The lanyard can also be easily attached to deck-lines on a kayak, for easy access.

The Leatherman Multi-Tool

A multi-tool doesn’t have as many blades or functions as a Swiss Army Knife, but nevertheless is a very functional and effective tool. Having it available on a belt all the time makes it easy to quickly and efficiently repair minor fencing issues, cut wire tangled in equipment, and unscrew things – all without ready-access to a comprehensive toolbox. There is the facility to attach a lanyard to this also – but at 13cm, it is longer than the Handyman, and heavier at 266gm too.

What is a Multi-Tool?

A multi-tool is a single piece of camping and hiking equipment that has numerous functions. It’s cleverly built around a pair of compact stainless steel pliers, with other pullout tools neatly incorporated into the design:

• The pliers are either regular pliers or needle-nose pliers that are handy for tightening or loosening bolts, pulling out small nails, and bending wires. The better quality multi-tool pliers also have built-in wire cutting and wire stripping functions.
• Almost every multitool has at least one sharp knife for cutting, with a safe, foldaway blade. A second serrated knife, wood saw, or metal saw are also available on selected brands.
• For the handy bushman in you, another common multi-tool component is the screwdriver. Usually you’ll have both flat and Phillips head options – an important tool for those ‘fix it’ sessions on the road.
• Some multi-tools also contain a file suitable for filing down timber or metal. Plus if you ever need to measure a short distance there’s often a ruler incorporated into the extended length of your multi-tool.
• And where would you be without scissors to cut thin twine, fishing line, fingernails, material, paper, and plastic? Neatly cutting open packets of food rather than ripping them with your teeth – it’s so much easier when you’ve got your handy multi-tool.
• Importantly, camp cooking and camp entertainment always benefit from your multi-tool’s can and bottle openers, respectively.
• Some multi-tools even include an awl (or hole punch) for putting holes in tough materials like leather or thick canvas, which is useful – we just don’t know when!

How to Choose Your Multitool

Choosing the right multi-tool is a balance between:

1. Finding a tool with the functions you need
2. How compact and lightweight the tool needs to be
3. Durability for years of use
4. How safe they are to use as part of a multi-tool, and of course,
5. How much you’re willing to spend

Multi-tools can be an expensive purchase for young campers and, unfortunately, they’re also easy to lose. Therefore you need to weigh up the return-on-investment for your multi-tool.

Before you rush out and buy a multi-tool, write down a list of what you want your multi-tool to do. Sometimes the higher number of functions is not as important as making sure you’ve got the right tool for your intended activities.

On the flipside, you may want a multi-tool that does everything so that you’re prepared for those just-in-case moments. Find out exactly what you need and want before you purchase your new multi-tool.

What to Look For in a Multi-Tool

• Safety First

If you’re going to be applying pressure when you use the individual tools, in particular the blade, look to buy a multi-tool with a tool and/or blade-only locking mechanism. This will lock the blade safely in place so it won’t close without you releasing it.

• Weight and Function

Second, consider the weight of the tool and how you’ll attach it to you or your gear. Where are you going to keep your multi-tool so it’s handy to grab when you’re on the road, camping or hiking?

If it’s a small multi-tool, a simple belt clip or lanyard ring will work to attach it to you or your backpack.

However if your multi-tool is larger and heavier, then it should be sold with a protective pouch made of durable material, such as leather or nylon, to attach to your belt.

If you’re going to keep your multi-tool in the glove box and don’t require a lightweight product, you may select a heavier multi-tool with more functions and greater strength.

The weight and ‘hand feel’ of your multi-tool is also important. Sometimes the trade-off for manufacturers is decreasing the comfort of the handle. The more tools added to the design, the more likely the handle to grasp the tool is more cumbersome.

• Steel Strength

Third, for strength and rust-resistance, the type of stainless steel used is important. A higher price tag for a multitool, in many cases, relates to the better quality stainless steel it’s made out of. High quality stainless steel is extremely strong and resistant to corrosion (rust), however some lower quality stainless steels can occasionally succumb to the effects of salt and moisture, as well as weaken in structure.

• Functions

Lastly, look for components of a multi-tool that do more than one thing. For example, the bottle opener arm may also be a flat head screwdriver or the can opener may also be a twine cutter. This versatility lends itself to a more compact multi-tool design.

It’s like opening Christmas presents! Image: Victorinox

Swiss Army Knife Vs Multi-Tools: Pros and Cons

Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

Pros

• Small and lightweight
• Versatile
• Perfect for bushwalking and activities where weight is a criteria

Cons

• Lacks robust pliers

Leatherman Multi-Tool

Pros

• Versatile
• Perfect for activities where a more robust tool is needed, particularly the pliers

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Harder to pull out the tools you need

Torch

While we’re likely to have a headlamp or lantern amongst our gear, a multi-purpose lighting back-up is never a bad thing.

Don’t waste valuable space and weight by selecting multi-purpose tools. Image: Ben Trewen

Mallet

When it comes to camping and hiking, the value of mallets surely speaks for themselves. While the pressure of your foot or the weight of a rock can often do the job, having a heavy-duty mallet on hand to put all your pegs into the ground is much easier.

The beauty of a mallet is that the peg puller at the end of the handle offers just as much help when its time to pack down and pull all the pegs out of the ground. If you’re more of the lightweight hiker type, you could consider a lightweight mallet.

Tri-Fold Shovel

Whether you’re adjusting the wood on the fire, digging up coals for your camp oven or clearing space for the bowels to open up, having a shovel is incredibly handy. Many choose to opt for adding a long-handled option to their gear kit, however you could get away with a simple tri-fold shovel in my toolbox. It’s small and compact but still gets the job done.

Hatchet

Not critical, but very useful, especially during fire season. Hatchets are great for chipping away at kindling, clearing vegetation at campsites and cutting down wood to fit. They’re also multi-purpose as you can use the other end of the head as a hammer for putting pegs into the ground.

Butane Gun

Sure, you can just use matches, but having a butane gun on hand will help to light a fire in testing conditions. Whether you’re lacking tinder or struggling with wet or windy conditions, having a steady flame can be beneficial. Butane refills are very cheap and the convenience is absolutely worth it.

Water Tank Spanner

Again, not critical but very useful – especially if you plan to carry water in reusable tanks. Having a tool to ensure your lids and bungs are screwed on tight and that your taps can be removed for transit may not seem that valuable… until your water tanks start leaking.

Spare Parts

Lastly, are the spare parts. While this list can quickly become endless, there are some common parts that are regularly sought after. Adopt this for whatever gear you carry, as you need. Don’t be afraid to add items after you’ve learnt from your mistakes… it can take breaking four buckles on a hiking pack before you start carrying a spare!

Check that you’ve added spare parts to your kit in case you get caught out mid-adventure. Image: Ben Trewen

Tent Pole Splint

The unfortunate reality is that no tentpole is indestructible and once it becomes damaged, it’s a pain to manage. Having a sleeve handy makes repairing a crack or break easy. Sleeves are usually included as a spare with your tent. Just slip it over the damage, then reinforce with your duct tape or cable ties as needed. It’s a much sturdier option than a taped pole that doesn’t have adequate support.

Spare Bungs

Be it for your esky or your water tank, having leaking fluid going everywhere is the worst! Spend a couple of dollars to ensure you’re covered just in case you lose or break your bung.

Stove Service Kit: O-Rings, Knobs, Adapters

Gas Stoves can often be fidgety pieces of gear, complete with many different parts that often need maintaining. With hiking stoves, it’s relatively easy as many come with pre-assembled repair kits.

Camping stoves are a bit trickier. A great way to try and stay on top of things is to carry correct-sized rubber O-rings for your seals, stove knobs, and gas hose adapters for use between 3/8 to POL to BOM fittings.

It never hurts to also read the manufacturer instructions, in case they make any recommendations on parts as well.

Spare Pegs

If you’ve been camping for a while, you’ll know that broken, misplaced, or un-returned tent pegs are a frequent occurrence. Having a few extras on hand can never hurt. It’s pretty easy to get your hands on heavy-duty steel pegs or lightweight alloy pegs.

Repair Buckle

While many wouldn’t even think of buckles breaking, the inconvenience when they do can be pretty frustrating. Whether it be in your tent, backpack, or awning – buckles play a part in the setting up of many pieces of gear.

All it takes is for that misplaced footstep along with some pressure – and the next thing you know, the buckle is crushed!

Do you have anything else you take along in your toolkit when you head out on an adventure? Let us know in the comments. 

The post How to Build a Camping Toolkit appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We see you. We hear you.

As heard in Episodes 65 and 66 of the Snowys Camping Show, your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions in the second and final part of our Campsite Q&A’s blog series.

Your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions. Image: Coleman

Gear and Maintenance

Essentials for Beach Camping, and Tips for Keeping the Sand out of the Swag / Tent?

To first address sand, Ben and Lauren recommend a mesh ground sheet which, while expensive, is worth the investment. Double-layered, the mesh allows for any sand on top to fall through without resurfacing, ensuring a sand-free environment. These ground sheets were initially invented as portable helipads, designed to be positioned on loose desert surfaces to prevent sand from blowing and flicking upwards as the helicopter lands. OZtrail manufacture a less expensive model, which still adequately serves the same purpose.

Lauren also recommends EVA foam floor mats at the doorway, and a dustpan and brush to sweep away sand from legs and feet. A Muk Mat – a large, well-finished slab of Astro Turf – works wonders in sandy, beachy environments too. Lauren also suggests washing away the grit and debris in a tub of water, large enough for someone to stand in. Ultimately, allocating a ‘zone’ nearby your setup to clean away sand before entering the living area is the suggested approach. Sand in a tent and living space is often only a problem if we allow for it to build up – so control it from the beginning! 

Broadly speaking, beach camping also requires some sort of wind management. That said, setting up a wind break in sandy environments can encourage sand to whip upwards in a whirlwind. To control this, Ben and Lauren recommend choosing tents with fine mesh, and sealing windows and openings during the day to prevent sand from making its way into bedding.

Lastly, adequate sand pegs and guy ropes are paramount when beach camping, as well as trace springs for added stability in windier conditions.

Securing Food from Pests?

…Try literally anything.

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren detail how to manage critters and pests at the campsite.

Ultimately, they recommend Tupperware that seals tight. Ben is content with leaving unopened food packets in a tub with the lid sitting on top. On the other hand, opened packets should be kept in an airtight container to prevent ants from making their way in.  

In Ep53 – Kangaroo Island, Lauren describes the relentless possum raids as a result of leaving her doors open at night. Generally though, she manages well by keeping her food in storage draws under the bed and recommends solid plastic tubs. Even for a grain of rice, mice will chew through soft silicon and thin plastics, so be aware of the quality of your storage options too. Again, Ben can advocate for this in Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap, where he resorts to creating a trash contraption mouse trap to catch a critter than chewed its way into his 4WD!

For the unique nomads who hoped for more than just ‘use good storage containers’ – ever tried suspending your food from a tree using squat straps? Learn more about this in Ep57 and Ep96 on Weird and Wonderful Camping Gear!

Can you repair a sleeping mat if it leaks at the seams or valves – and if so, how?

Ben and Lauren have recorded a video that lives on the Snowys YouTube channel, elaborating on material relevant to this question – though not in detail.

Usually, only a leak via a seam or valve is guaranteed under warranty. This is because inconsistencies or fissures at these points are more than likely attributed to manufacturing faults. Ben and Lauren recommend getting in touch with the retailer of your defective sleeping mat to receive a warranty assessment.

While not the prettiest fix, Ben suggests Stormsure adhesive or seam grip glue to mend your mat DIY-style. Specifically, heavily smother the hole before spreading the glue at length along each side to create a seal. For an even stronger hold, apply the glue to a nylon ripstop-type material (from a place like Spotlight), as a foundation. This works particularly well with longer tears; Ben recommends incorporating fabric or gauze in and amongst the glue by placing a large strip over the top of the gash. When stretched, the fabric separates – but the seam grip covers it.

Personal camping essentials, upgrades, original gear, current gear, and reasons behind any alterations?

Before we unpack this question – yes, Ben. We get it. You love your coffee kit bag.

As much as this is true, Ben points out that he considers ‘personal camping essentials’ the items that mostly sit beneath the ‘hygiene’ and ‘medication’ umbrella. Lauren rarely washes her hair on a camping trip, instead relying on Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wash as both soap and body wash. Other essentials include her quality base layers and socks, sheep skins to drape over her camp chairs for warmth, Crocs (which she insists are the most bomb-proof, ideal footwear to slip on and off around the campsite), a head torch, and a bird book with binoculars to watch and learn of the pretty birdlife that often surrounds her on her travels.

On the other hand, Ben reveals the gear he’s replaced over the years. He now avoids rounder table lanterns and instead opts for 12V LED strips or hanging lights, having decided that they light his table setup more effectively. As well as lighting, Ben has reconsidered how he operates his stove, now opting for multi-fuel over gas. Unlike large, heavy gas bottles, multi-fuel systems are easy to transport and assemble, eliminating the need for hoses and other accessories. While it may take longer, Ben confirms that this is the trade-off he’s willing to sacrifice. His cast iron camp oven – whilst a favourite – is also soon to be replaced by one of spun steel for both weight and portability reasons. Lastly, he’s removed his awning from his 4WD. This was after deciding it was too tedious to set up and take down on trips where he was driving more frequently than he was pulling over. It now sits in his shed at home… and he doesn’t miss it!

Ben now avoids table lanterns and instead opts for 12V lighting. Image: Hard Korr

Lauren hears of new and improved gear through the grapevine from as often as monthly to even weekly. For this reason, her setup reflects constant evolution as opposed to a ‘before and after’ project. An example of this is her transition from a Waeco 45-litre fridge to a myCOOLMAN dual zone 85-litre fridge, after discovering more room in her van to store it. Now in the process of fitting out their camper van, she reflects on why she didn’t consider two drawer fridges to stack on top of one another – an arrangement she’s keen to progress to when the vehicle renovations are done. The drawer fridges she’s interested in are 10 centimetres wider than the current fridge, but are stackable and each capable of running as either a fridge or freezer.
Overall, settling on a sprinter van instead of a 4WD or caravan – as much as Lauren and her partner love it – has its limitations. Lacking features such as 4WD access or adequate clearance can sometimes be more significant issues than not, especially when she plans to go far beyond her backyard and get wild! As a result, Lauren finds herself wondering what she may opt for further down the line, and what differences it will pose regarding setup. Better or worse – at the end of the day, the grass will always seem greener.

Advice on Tent Security (and Storing Spare Keys)?

The simple answer is: don’t keep your keys in your tent.

With his minimalist setup, Ben has spent many camping trips probably appearing as one of the less wealthy campers at the campsite – which likely explains why he’s yet to be robbed! In some ways, locking everything away can suggest that you have something to steal.

An effortless solution is to not store valuables inside the tent, where Ben tends to only leave his bedding. While there’s always a chance, the likelihood that his sleeping bag will be stolen is relatively low, with fewer repercussions if it was over his wallet or phone.

As for Lauren, theft has never been on her radar. In her experience, there’s an unspoken rule in the camping community to not steal from other setups. Ben admits that National Park spaces are relatively theft-free, though some caravan parks in particular are more prone to it. This is often not as malicious as it is purely opportunistic; young, ratbag kids are usually just out for a thrill, looking to snatch up some loose change or something valuable. This is often the case in most areas alike.

Ultimately, the chance of theft at a campground depends on its location. To address any concerns you may have, simply lock your vehicle and avoid leaving loose change or valuables in exposed places. For instance: at night, Ben tends to store his car keys in the small internal tent pocket just above his head.

Gazebos – Necessary Additional Family Shelter, or Storage Space Waster?

The short answer? It depends on who you are, the storage space you have, and the nature of your desired setup.

For a more detailed response, Ben and Lauren cover relevant information extensively in Ep7 – Gear You Don’t Need for Camping and Ep59 – Shelters for Rainy Days.

What is Safer: to Keep Your Lithium Battery (Plugged Into Solar Panels and a Fridge) in a 6 x 4  Trailer, a Tent, or on a Blanket on the Ground?

If the battery is lithium, it’s generally safe either way.

On the other hand, other lead acid batteries (including sealed) emit hydrogen and generally don’t operate well in extreme temperatures, so best kept in a ventilated space. Keeping it by your fridge shouldn’t be a concern in this regard, as the fridge itself also requires adequate aeration due to its compressor.

Albeit, Ben and Lauren aren’t experts on batteries. Initially, they suggest using common sense; keeping a hot battery close beside you within a tent isn’t ideal! Those who are still unsure should note the warnings in the instruction manual of their respective power station (for instance, the Companion Lithium Rover), or talk to the experts (e.g. Battery World).

Items you Thought Would be Useless but Were Useful, and Vice-Versa?

For Ben, he never expected to need a paintbrush on a road trip – but has found it useful in sweeping away dust and debris from his car or tent interior, especially in outback travelling!

On the other hand, the few opportunities he’s found to use his awning don’t warrant transporting it about as often as he once did. For this reason, it now lives packed away in his shed indefinitely. As well as this, he’s allocated his ‘Grandpa Fork’ to the box of untouched tackle. The tool is simply a fork-like piece that attaches to the end of a stick, designed for toasting marshmallows. While Lauren thinks they’re a nifty invention, Ben would rather just use a stick…

For Lauren, her set of four collapsible tubs are the most unexpectedly delightful addition to her camp clobber. She uses them regularly, and plans to soon purchase another set.

As for the presumably great gadgets that have turned out to be sub-par, she keeps a large collection of items alike in her shed which simply haven’t suited her setup as much as she initially thought. At this stage, nothing in particular springs to mind – but keep an eye out on the Snowys Camping Show Facebook group while she sets this question aside to marinate…

Ben finds he doesn’t use his awning enough to warrant transporting it around as often as he does. Image: Darche

Camping, Caravanning, and 4WDing

Funniest Camp Fail?

… On par with Ben’s ‘green ant’ story, as told in Episode 44? Lauren may just match it.

There’s a place she and her family love to go, the track to which is recommended for 4WDs only – especially when wet. That said, Lauren claims her Sprinter van can tackle more than one may think… but in this instance, these were her famous last words.

Lauren and her family were due to meet with another two groups. Given the substantial room in her vehicle compared to others, she was transporting enough gear for six people – plus more to lessen the load for other families. This added significantly more weight to the van… which didn’t bode well on the track after recent rainfall. When they approached the track, it was a slurry of cold, grey mud. By the time they realised it wasn’t a good idea to proceed, it was too late to turn back!

Initially, they were hopeful… before the van began to slip and slide perilously in the sludge. Eventually, they were left steadfast in sticky mud, stranded in the middle of the Riverland. The sun had set; it was 9:30pm. Lauren directed the kids to toddle off into the inky blackness with a torch to find help, while she and her partner began the exhaustive process of attempting to nudge the van, stubbornly wedged in the thick mud.

After some time, their friend arrived, and together they discovered the root of the problem; the vehicle’s diff was lodged firmly into a large lump of clay. To first alleviate some of the weight, Lauren had the kids carrying camp clobber from the van to the campsite, piece by piece like a row of ants. Next, her partner stripped down to only his shorts and primely positioned himself well underneath the van. The track soon became a mucky mess of footprints as Lauren’s family gathered sticks, logs, and debris to dig away at the diff buried deep in the sludge.

Time moved fast – but the van remained resolute. By midnight, Lauren and her crew attempted one last tactic. After removing the wheel, they packed in the space underneath with sticks and bark, inserted the jack, and pushed as hard as they could while one of them took the driver’s seat. Eventually, Lauren and her family were a wholesome blend of filthy, relieved – and with a vehicle in motion!

For a camp fail equally as chaotic involving a snake, a floating tent, and a mass of green ants – check out Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap.

Practicality of Extended Overland Trips in an SUV/Wagon/Car, Versus the More Built-Out 4WDs/RVs/Camper Vans/Caravans?

The key consideration that distinguishes one from the other is preparation. Travelling in a 4WD, RV, or camping vehicle requires less given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup. With an SUV or smaller vehicle, space is more limited.

As much as it bodes well to first do your research before purchasing a more built-out camper van, don’t let your current wagon or car be a roadblock to hitting the road and seeing the sights. While it may not be wise to travel through the Bungle Bungles in a Sedan, there is still so much to see and do in the great outdoors without a 4WD setup.

Do Either of you Own a Camper Trailer or a Caravan? What are Your Hacks?

Ben and Lauren do not – but Snowys’ resident caravanning expert, Kevin, certainly does!

Kevin has frequently featured in episodes of the Snowys Camping Show, such as Caravan Water Tanks 101, Caravan Refrigeration, and Caravanning the Oodnadatta Track. Given how many caravanning hacks there are, Ben and Lauren suggest advising us of any specifics for Kevin to address from his fountain of knowledge.

Travelling in a 4WD requires less preparation given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup! Image: Darche

What are the essential spare items that Kev would take for extended caravan travelling, off-road?

We’ve addressed this in detail in Episode 68 with our caravanning expert, Kev.

While the list extends further, and excludes the various considerations and details depending on the off-road situation – Kev recommends the following as a guide:

• A standard toolkit
• Wheel bearings
• A hub seal
• Irrigation joiners, straights, and elbows etc. for the hoses and connectors beneath the van
• Two spare wheels, as well as plugs for any minor punctures
• Turn buckles and chains to secure broken springs and axels (this becomes complicated, and depends on the situation!)
• A roll of duct tape, insulation tape, and wire
• Replacement fuses to suit those existing in your car or caravan
• So much more!

Food

Favourite Meal to Cook When Camping / Meal Ideas?

Ben and Lauren elaborate on relevant information throughout both Ep2 – Tips for Keeping Camping Food Fresh, Ep13 – Camping on a Budget, and Ep27 – Camp Kitchen Essentials.

In addition to this specific content, Lauren confirms that her favourite camping food – especially in Winter –  is a cooked brekky. For her, nothing beats smoky bacon, eggs, and charred toast by the campfire coals first thing in the morning!

On the other hand, Ben tends to cook modified versions of the meals he eats at home. For example, when cooking a pasta at the campsite that would usually include fresh tomatoes, he’d add tinned instead.

Another winner for Ben is damper. A doughy, buttery, body-bolstering blend of simple and versatile – damper requires only staple ingredients, elevated even more with bits and pieces of sweet or savoury. By the same token, a jaffle iron is one of Ben’s favourite appliances at the campsite. As well as cooking mini dampers, Ben uses his iron by pressing dough into the moulds, filling it with either baked beans, chocolate, or other fillings of choice, and toasting to create little dough pouches for his kids to carry around camp.

In the meantime, she suggests preparing as much food in advance as possible. This includes pre-chopping vegetables, and pre-cooking meals to then vacuum-seal and re-heat in boiling water at the campsite. Storing pre-cooked rice and chopped vegetables such as onion, pumpkin, or carrots in vac-sealed bags also keeps food fresh and maintained.

In Lauren’s experience, meal-prepping for only herself and her partner versus her entire family are two very different processes. So again – watch this space for more content specific to this aspect of adventuring!

What are the recommended meal and preparation ideas for camping, specifically for stove cooking?

For a little while, Lauren has been keen to produce an episode purely centred around campsite meals. In it, she’d aim to cover meal planning, preparation, and cooking for camping.

In a previous episode with Dr. Kate Grarock, ‘Food for Adventure’, Ben and Lauren kept the content hiking-focused. Episodes alike include ‘Food for Hiking‘, as well as content that explores camp kitchen essentials and how to keep food fresh. Considering this, Lauren has identified the absence of an episode solely dedicated to recipes and meal ideas.

Fridges

Use-case tips on Dometic icebox sizes – including packing standard-sized items to assess how they fit, and how to subsequently determine a suitable size?

This has been an angle on iceboxes from which both Ben and Lauren have wanted to approach for a little while. In a previous podcast episode, ‘Fridges Vs Iceboxes’, they discuss the pros and cons of each and consequently which option is more suited to various setups.

For now, our gear gurus confirm that it depends on the purpose for which your icebox is being used; be that solely cooling, or in conjunction with a fridge. Granted, a YouTube video on our channel may be the perfect way to further elaborate on this question and demonstrate visually… so for the last time, watch this space!

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren discuss the pros and cons of both iceboxes and fridges. Image: Dometic

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

Will Snowys ever open a store in Victoria or Sydney?

Unfortunately, this isn’t on the radar. Ben says that Snowys aim to continue to focus on what they do well, as opposed to expanding and subsequently increasing the prices of products. That said – never say never!

Nonetheless, this isn’t a conversation Lauren and Ben are ultimately involved in, instead determined by a higher level of authority.

Do you two each have an Instagram account, so we can see your setups as well?

The short answer is: not really.

Why? Lauren’s answer for Ben is simple: he’s ‘lame’!

Ben’s explanation for his lack of internet sharing is a little more sentimental; when he’s on holiday, he unplugs almost entirely. Instead of watching the number of views rise on his Instagram stories, he watches the view of the sunrise instead. While some reach the end of a demanding day outdoors and choose to take the time to share photos with their family via WhatsApp, Ben watches the sun set instead. On his half-lap across the Northern Territory and Western Australia, Ben became so emersed in his surroundings that his wife would update his family for him!

Nonetheless, Ben and Lauren admit that they reference their own setups a lot throughout their Snowys podcasts and content. Those who listen to the Snowys Camping Show podcast have insight into Ben and Lauren’s identities in a work-based capacity, with little reference to their personal life.

Lauren has a personal Instagram account that she rarely uses, but has considered creating one that is more relevant to her camping life for public observation. Where she’ll continue to ponder the idea, Ben is certain that a personal account will be disappointing for his followers due to the simplicity of his setup!

More questions? Hit us up! Image: Sea to Summit

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 23, 30, 48, 65, 66, and 92 of the Snowys Camping Show to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 2) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The first thing you should consider is a groundsheet – sometimes also referred to as a footprint, ground tarp, or floor saver. Call them what you will, but regardless they’re a crucial piece of camping kit. For the sake of this blog, we’ll call them groundsheets.

Groundsheets exist to protect the floor of your tent against everything that nature throws at it – from the ground up! An insurance policy, if you will. You’re much better off financially to replace a groundsheet every so often than your entire Black Wolf Turbo or MSR Hubba Hubba!

They’re often not as cheap as you’d hope – but it certainly does soothe the frustration when faced with damage, in that you only need to replace the groundsheet as opposed to the entire tent or swag.

Groundsheets can do a whole lot more than just protecting the underside of your tent or swag. Image: Oztent

Benefits of a Groundsheet

Groundsheets also assist with waterproofing your tent or swag floor, act as a barrier in wet conditions, preserve the vegetation underneath your swag or tent, act as a wind or weather break, help to prevent condensation, and offer an emergency shelter when needed.

There are many benefits to owning a groundsheet. Image: Coleman

Regulations of Groundsheets

Believe it or not, there are some rules around the use of groundsheets – especially in privately operated caravan parks.

The most common is that groundsheets in some camping and caravan parks can only be made of open-weave shade cloth fabric. This is to allow the grass to breathe and minimise damage. No one enjoys a dusty campsite, and grass does require some upkeep to be maintained.

Some caravan and camping parks are now also asking that you lift or even move your groundsheets (as well as the tent or swag) at frequent intervals, to help maintain the health of the grass.

Mesh groundsheets will be necessary for some places to protect the grass. Image: Black Wolf

Options:

Made-to-Fit

These are groundsheets designed by manufacturers to specifically fit under their compatible tents. In most instances, the groundsheet also fits underneath the awning. Usually made with mesh fabric, some are still only available in solid fabric.

The major benefit here is that you can purchase with confidence, assured of a perfect fit without hassle.

Some of the tents in the current range at Snowys have made-to-fit groundsheets available separately include:

• Black Wolf Turbo tents
• Oztent RV tents
• Zempire Aerodome tents
• Most hiking tents

The Oztent RV1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 are models that have made to fit groundsheets available. Image: Oztent

Mesh Style

These groundsheets aren’t made to fit, but rather available in a variety of sizes. This can be a challenge in establishing what groundsheet fits, but also provides some freedom to set it up as you wish.

Made from a heavier-duty shade cloth material, the major benefit to this design is that it allows the grass underneath to breathe, while also allowing moisture, dirt, and debris to fall through. This ensures that the groundsheet won’t start pooling if it rains. They’re also comfortable to walk on.

The only real challenges with these styles are that they aren’t as durable as solid fabrics, a little more expensive, and can be hard to clean.

Currently, there are 3 mesh options available in a range of sizes:

• A durable and almost indestructible C-Gear Multimat
• The popular and affordable Oztrail Ultramesh option
• The versatile and tougher-than-turf L-Shaped Multimat by C-Gear

These are not made for specific tents, but come in a wide range of sizes to suit many popular tents. They’re also commonly used for awning floors, under kids’ pools, as windbreaks and sails, and more. C-Gear’s L-Shaped Multimat is both reversible and rotatable, particularly ideal for use under a 270 or 180 4WD awning.

The Oztrail Ultramesh provides many of the same benefits as the purpose-made footprints, but at a lower price. As for the C-Gear Multimat – heck, they can be used as helipads!

A mesh tarp is probably the most versatile option for a groundsheet. Image: Coleman Australia

Made from a heavier-duty shade cloth material, mesh groundsheets allow moisture, dirt, and debris to fall through. Image: Paul Goodsell

Solid Style

Solid styles aren’t made to fit, but also come in a range of sizes to suit. These aren’t as popular as mesh due to restrictions now placed upon them in caravan and camping parks.

The pros of the solid style groundsheets include that they offer more protection, compared to mesh. They’re also lower in cost, and may provide insulation against the cold ground.

While being a little easier to clean and providing a solid defense, solid groundsheets don’t allow for grass to breathe, can increase the chance of condensation and, worse still, will collect water underneath your tent floor when it rains (as opposed allowing it to fall through). The latter is especially true if you select one that is too large.

At Snowys, the most common style of solid groundsheet available is the humble and multi-purposeful tarp. Nothing is more versatile than a quality tarp (or ‘tarpaulin’). You can use one to waterproof the gear in your trailer or roof rack, then throw it under the tent while you camp. Tarps are available in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and thicknesses.

Solid heavy duty tarps are more hardwearing and offer more protection. Image: Ben Trewren

DIY Groundsheets

The last option for a groundsheet is to get a little creative with items you may already have!

You might have some extra shade cloth, building materials such as Tyvek or plastic, Sisalation (used for insulation), disposed-of curtains, or old pool covers. There are a few possibilities here for you to recycle what you already own. Hikers could consider using items such as an emergency blanket from their first aid kit too.

There are a few possibilities in recycling what you already own. Image: Coleman

A great option is to re-purpose what you already have as a groundsheet. Image: Ben Trewren

Measuring Up for a Groundsheet

A question we get asked a lot here at Snowys is, ‘will this groundsheet fit my tent?’

So, here’s how we figure out whether a groundsheet will work:

1. What Area do You Want to Cover?

You need to first think about what space you want to cover with a groundsheet. The base of the swag or tent is a given, but would you like some protection throughout the awning area(s), or beyond the perimeter of the tent itself?

2. Check Your Tent’s Dimensions

Once you’ve decided on the area you want to cover, look at the external dimensions of your tent. We list these in the ‘specifications’ column on each of our products pages, as well as in the tent floorplan (usually the last image). This will give you an idea of measurements for the area size you want to cover.

Once you’ve seen the sizes available, determine whether you’ll be able to acquire the coverage you’re after with one groundsheet or if you’ll need two or more together.

3. Making It Fit

It’s unlikely you’ll get the perfect fit. You could opt for a slightly smaller size that doesn’t give complete coverage – but while this makes it easy initially, in the long run it leaves your tent exposed to damage.

Alternatively, you could choose a slightly larger size to provide complete coverage. However, you’ll likely need to make some alterations.

You may need to use more than one tarp side by side to achieve a good fit for your shelter. Image: Ben Trewren

Can I Alter my Groundsheet?

We recommend against altering the size of the groundsheet. You’ll risk cutting it crooked, lose valuable coverage for other uses, and remove the reinforced edging (which will cause fraying).

Rather, we’d encourage you to fold the excess underneath the tent, or allow the excess tarp to exceed your tent and peg through the groundsheet.

Pegging through the groundsheet is a common alteration – but to ensure you get it right, here are our tips:

Consider the position of your tent, make the hole, and then reinforce it to prevent fraying. Image: Ben Trewren

How to Properly Peg Through a Groundsheet:

• We recommend laying your groundsheet out, then placing your tent on top of the groundsheet as desired.

• From there, look to peg out the tent as you normally would – but on this occasion, penetrating through the groundsheet.
• Take your time to ensure you only need one attempt at each peg, and only peg what is required.
• Important: you may need to reinforce each hole with tape or brass eyelets to stop it from fraying or continuing to rip. You can do this by using a heavy-duty tape, an adhesive glue, or stitching strong thread around each hole.
• It’s also worth noting on your groundsheet where the front/rear is, so that your tent and holes align next time.

Ben and Lauren discuss groundsheets in Episode 69 of the Snowys Camping Show:

If you have any further questions about protecting your tent, fire away in the comments!

The post Guide to Choosing the Right Size Groundsheet appeared first on Snowys Blog.

From wet weather tips and coffee at the campsite, to the best bags, mending swags, what they can’t camp without, and how to get around – this blog covers the first of a two-part series on the questions asked of our resident gear gurus – Ben and Lauren.

From wet weather tips to coffee at the campsite – read on for answers to some of our most-asked questions! Image: Sea to Summit

Camping

‘What are your favourite items of camping equipment?’

Ben’s favourite is his Aeropress coffee maker and X-Pot kettle from Sea to Summit, plus his solar panels so he can travel further off the grid. Lauren is very fond of her Cecil & Co Campfire Water Boiler which she uses with her 12V shower for steaming hot bush showers, her trusty Scrubba wash bag for cleaning clothes, and her Hillbilly cookstand for campfire cooking.

‘What do you look for when choosing a campsite? Do you have any local favs?’

Lauren admits that she doesn’t like to share her favourite spots, as there have been some great campsites in the past that have become trashed after gaining popularity. In terms of finding a good spot, she says WikiCamps has been helpful as you can filter both your region and requirements. Lauren now looks for bush camps / campsites with minimal amenities, are nearby a water source, offer space for kids to roam, and allow both dogs and campfires (within fire season). Ben largely feels the same, as he prefers more remote camping where there is plenty of space and solitude.

‘It would be cool to see your setups – Ben’s sounds quite interesting.’

You can hear more about Ben and Lauren’s setups in the Episode 71 and Episode 72 of the Snowys Camping Show:

‘There are many women camping solo these days. I am 59, and I would love to know what products make camping easier and safer for me.’

Instant Up Tents are a good example of easy, user-friendly camping gear. Lauren hasn’t solo-camped much in her time, but some contributors in our Facebook group have shared tips like taking an extra chair and leaving an empty can or beer bottle to give the impression of another camper’s presence. Also, having a way to communicate in terms of safety, be that some sort of messenger device to connect with your loved ones or a UHF radio for calling for assistance. This will provide some peace of mind.

‘Tips for taking toddlers camping?’

Having touched on both camping with kids and camping with teenagers, Lauren and Ben maintain their suggestion to allow children the freedom to explore in safe areas (i.e. away from spaces prone to snakes). Navigate the nooks and crannies with them, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. 

Along with old, worn clothing, Lauren recommends packing your child/ren a waterproof over-suit for winter camping, thrown on with a pair of gumboots for perfectly protected play among the mud puddles. She also comments that camping in caravan parks often presents more problems than setting up out in the open, where cars and other children tearing up the tracks on bikes can create a cramped and crowded space for toddlers. In the bush, parents can instead establish the clear perimeters their children can roam to, and eliminate any worries about washing. On that, Lauren suggests doubling a trug as both a washing basin and a bath.

For sleeping, Ben recommends creating a barrier either side of your child to prevent them from rolling off their mat. Especially in the winter, waking up in the middle of the night on the cold, hard floor can make defying the outdoors the following day difficult – and in some cases, cause sickness. Additionally, Lauren strongly suggests avoiding kids’ sleeping bags. In her experience, they’ve never offered the same level of warmth, longevity, or adequate length as the adult designs. Instead, simply purchase a standard sized bag, and either fold in half or block off at the end to prevent your pocket-sized humans from slipping too far into the sack.

Oh, and of course – be sure to not to skimp on the snacks!

‘What’s the right way to stake a tent?

Some say 45° away from tent, others 45° toward the tent, and some say vertically. Confusion reigns. For me, it’s critical the tent remains secure in wind!’

The top of the peg should be pointing away from the tent – so when you’re hammering it into the ground, it’s angled away from the tent.

‘On my lap around Australia, what is recommended: ute canopy, camper trailer, or caravan?’

For those travelling as a couple without children, Lauren and Ben suggest using a Ute canopy as opposed to attempting to tow a camper trailer or caravan. Nonetheless, in cases where campers feel comfortable leaving them stationary somewhere for long periods of time, caravans and trailers can provide a roomy, humble alternative.

That said, Ben agrees that an easier-to-set-up sanctuary is more economical and beneficial for a dynamic duo. The money saved on a camper trailer can instead be invested in upgrading your vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to accommodate a substantial rooftop tent. Ben suggests a thorough investigation into the style of rooftop tent you purchase, given some are easy to set up while others require the use of pegs and guy ropes.  

‘Do you consider using a caravan “camping”?’

In short, no – but it doesn’t matter what it’s called, doing what you enjoy is what matters. At the end of the day, it’s still a valuable pursuit. According to the Oxford Dictionary, camping is defined as: ‘The activity of spending a holiday living in a tent’. So, there you have it!

‘What are your thoughts about the future of Australian manufacturing within the camping/hiking and touring sector?’

Both Ben and Lauren believe that it’s important to support Australian-made and Australian-owned companies whenever possible. The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted many supply chain issues in every industry, but the market has been that way for quite some time in regards to overseas manufacturing. Keep in mind that just because a product is made offshore doesn’t mean it’s poor quality. Many Aussie family-owned brands choose to manufacture overseas due to the limited options in Australia with technology and machinery, so it’s a complex topic that should be considered from all angles.

Ben and Lauren chat with Laine and Erin Wescombe of Blacksmith Camping Supplies about everything Aussie Manufacturing:

‘Regarding First Aid, what knowledge is essential for campers and what items do you never leave without in your first aid kit?’

It’s good to have as much knowledge as you can if you’re heading somewhere remote, with a basic first aid course as the minimum. Keep some extra items in your first aid kit to cater for your specific needs as well. Lauren also mentions that it’s important to have an alternative method of communication if you frequently travel to areas where there isn’t a reliable phone signal. This could be in the form of a satellite communicator, satellite phone, or PLB. Even with some First Aid training, if there’s a life-threatening emergency, urgent medical attention will be required.

‘Ben – you always seem very focused on weight and functionality (rightfully so), but what do you take camping that isn’t necessary and something you consider a luxury?’

If it’s a luxury item, Ben usually doesn’t take it. That said, when he travelled up north (where it’s hot and humid), he carried a 12V Breezeway Fan from Outdoor Connection to keep his family cool.

Navigate the nooks and crannies with your kids, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. Image: Coleman

Sleeping Gear

‘I currently have 50mm thick, self-inflatable sleeping mats for my family car-camping trips.

I am finding lately that the mats don’t self-inflate as much as they used to, and aren’t as comfortable. I was thinking of going for hiking air mattresses with insulation, so they can be also used for canoe camping and the odd hike. Are these a good option, or should I consider something else?’

You could certainly use an air mat – but one of the main benefits of a self-inflating foam mat is that if there’s a puncture, you will still have some insulation to sleep on. Consider that you might have different comfort standards when you’re hiking compared to when you go family camping. You might want to go for a self-inflating mat designed for hiking, as they’re more durable and comfortable but still fairly lightweight.

‘Where can I find mattress toppers for swags?’

For those who are unfamiliar with a mattress topper – this is a corresponding product that provides added padding and comfort to an existing mattress. Where some have walls like a fitted sheet, others are simply a mat of synthetic fibre, down, merino or wool. Lauren recommends merino for adequate temperature regulation, while Ben simply utilises a fitted bed sheet that he tucks beneath the mattress sides.

While residential mattress sizes don’t align with those of swags, Lauren suggests visiting Target, K-Mart, Spotlight, or other hardware and homeware stores for adequate options.

‘Stretcher bed Vs air bed Vs self-inflating mat?

Particular consideration for those with back issues, knee issues, hand issues (i.e. comfort, getting up off the ground, assembling equipment, or closing valves)?’

Ben and Lauren reckon the best option for someone who might have limited mobility would be a stretcher that provides elevation, plus a self-inflating mat with a two-way valve so it’s easier to set up and pack away.

Consider that your comfort standards when you’re hiking will be different compared to when you go family camping. Image: Exped

‘What’s the best sleeping bag for men, and what’s the best for women?’

This is a complicated question as there are many factors, and most bags in the higher price bracket will perform similarly. Once you decide on either a synthetic or down bag, narrow it down to the fit, look for an EN rating, and consider size and packability.

Ben and Lauren also recommend listening to their interview with Sea to Summit discussing sleep systems, which might help with the decision-making process.

‘I bought a brand new down sleeping bag but it has a strong smell, like a wet dog.

I’m wondering if the down inside is bad, or something’s wrong with the bag? Is it normal that new down bags stink?’

This is totally normal and very common. Keep in mind, feathers are a natural fibre, so they will have a natural scent that will fade over time. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, but there are some things you can do to minimise it like taking it out of its storage sack and hanging it up in your wardrobe to ventilate. You also have the option of washing your down bag, but wetting the feathers can sometimes intensify the smell. We recommend keeping it dry, airing it, and just being patient.

‘Best sleeping bags for bigger people?’

For the taller campers, Sea to Summit offer longer-style sleeping bags. At 185cm, Ben fits a regular sized bag, while at 191cm tall Lauren’s partner is better suited to a longer design.

For those who are simply broader – or as Lauren calls it, ‘cuddlier’ – women-specific designs by Sea to Summit are narrower in the shoulders but allow more room in the hip area. Additionally, their Amplitude and Basecamp series mirror a large sack, feature two warmth ratings, and are significantly more spacious. Lauren describes their appearance as a fluffy balloon, boasting a huge internal circumference for star-fishing and spreading wide. These particular styles are popular among motorcycle tourists too.
Unlike the Mummy shaped design – wide at the shoulders, tapering at the feet – the rectangular fit maintains the same measure of room from head to toe. The Sea to Summit website indicates the internal circumference of their sleeping bags, as well as hip and shoulder measurements.

Like Sea to Summit, Darche also offer a 1100 sleeping bag that aligns with a King-King-Single size. While this doesn’t quite meet the same volume of space as a double, it is larger than a single and thus still offers a roomy alternative.

Weather Protection

‘What is the best rain jacket and best down jacket for men, what’s the best for women?’

This is a tricky one, as we don’t sell clothing at Snowys; it’s not our area of speciality. Essentially, when it comes to the top-of-the-range, high-quality clothing (where you’re spending $500+), the differences will likely be minor.

Generally, we would say that the hallmark of a high-quality rain jacket would be breathable waterproof fabric with ventilation and a good hood.

In terms of down jackets – if you’re just looking for one to wear around town, you could definitely go for something more affordable. However, if you’re using it for technical applications, look for models that use responsibly sourced down, have a good warmth-to-weight ratio, and feature water-resistant fabric.

‘Has anyone made up their own windbreak?

I was thinking of using shade cloth and star droppers. I think star droppers might be on the heavy and awkward-to-store side of things though – are there aluminium poles that would be suitable?’

Definitely – but we would suggest not taking star droppers as they are heavy, so could be dangerous in an accident. Even if strapped on tightly, it will become a spear if it begins to move with too much weight around it. Whatever you put on the roof rack must be secure. Aluminium poles will help save weight, so they are a good choice – plus, you’ll need good pegs and guy ropes. Ben recommends taking a mesh tarp folded in half, as this will mediate and slow the wind without putting too much stress on the poles.

‘Do you always pack clothing for any weather, or do you only ever pack for expected weather?’

Ben is a light packer, so he plans based on the expected weather forecast – although he might take a pair of pants and a light jumper sometimes, just in case. Lauren follows the same principle, though she might occasionally throw in a pair of comfy longer pants for wearing around camp. Regardless of the weather, she always packs a thick pair of socks to help her stay warm.

‘Tips or tricks for camping in the rain?’

In previous episodes, Lauren and Ben have touched on some logistics surrounding camping in wetter weather. Nonetheless, Ben encourages campers to enjoy the pitter-patter of raindrops on the still, damper days.

To prepare for the no-so-pleasant occasions, assess the weather predictions via the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) or your local agency. At the campsite, ensure guys ropes are taught, the fly is fully tensioned to ensure efficient funneling of rain, and establish a sheltered space for cooking and socialising, such as a spare tarp or gazebo.

Stick to lighting brands that are known for quality, such as Ledlenser. Image: Ledlenser

Electronics, Lighting, and Power

‘I’m thinking of buying a good head torch, but I don’t know if it’s worth spending good dollars on one or just replacing cheap ones as they stuff up…’

Ben’s approach to gear is that the fewer items thrown away, the better. Generally, with head torches, you get what you pay for. Ben has had a Princeton Tec head torch for 15 years which cost around $100. It has been on many adventures with him, and is still going strong! Stick to brands that are known for quality such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Silva, Ledlenser, or Nitecore.

For Lauren, the most important factors are that the unit is rechargeable and the battery can be replaced. She has used BioLite torchs in the past, but the internal battery can’t be replaced – this means that eventually it will end up in landfill. Instead, she now uses a Petzl Tikkina headlamp with a replaceable battery.

‘How do I determine the best small option for recharging my phone when camping, away from power points and a stationary vehicle, for 4-5 days?’

We would say start by working out what devices you’re going to use (e.g. just your phone, or other gear) and how much you want to use each device. Generally though, a small 20mAh powerbank should be suitable as something you can charge at home or while you drive.

Tents

‘Thoughts on camper trailers Vs tents for young family camping?’

Camper trailers are great for those who have the space at home to store them, are happy to tow, and also spend the initial investment by purchasing one. However, some limitations are that they can be time-consuming to put up, involve more maintenance, and require space for storage at home. That said, camper trailers are convenient and easier to get going with on your adventures –especially with kids.

‘Here’s one for Ben: would you take a hiking tent on your regular car-camping trips, or a larger tent?

Also, do you have an AGM battery in the car, or Lithium? If not Lithium, will you make the switch eventually?’

In his younger days, Ben was a hiker who took his lightweight tent on camping trips – but as his family grew, he upgraded to an older-style Black Wolf Tuff tent. He then upgraded to an Oztent RV5 tent for outback adventures, which is what he and his family still use now.

Currently, he has a lead-acid auxiliary and main battery, so he can charge them both with the same profile. That said, he would like to switch to lithium in the future to save weight.

Which tents on the market are the easiest and most efficient to set up and pack down for a newbie?

Lauren believes that the easiest to set up would be an air tent or an Instant Up design. Ben recommends checking out a basic dome tent, as you can’t really go wrong with good quality construction and thoughtful design.

‘What do you think of cheaper tents found at department stores?’

If you’re looking for a tent to survive a couple of uses, they will be fine – but if you want something that will stand up to many years of use, generally you do get what you pay for. If you were to have an issue with it, it’s unlikely that spare parts would be available, so even though the tent can be replaced through warranty the broken one will end up in landfill. We’d say the better approach is to buy once, buy right – so you can enjoy your shelter over many adventures.

A Muk Mat will help to prevent beach, bush, and campground grit from making its way indoors. Image: Muk Mat

Gear, Campsite, and General Maintenance

‘How can we limit the amount of sand and dirt little feet bring into our swags?

We have a 3-week trip planned with a mixture of beach, bush, and campground swagging with a 2- and 5-year-old!

You probably won’t be able to prevent this entirely, but you can manage it by keeping your shoes outside the swag. Putting a Muk Mat or some sort of foam matting outside as a doormat will help, as well as keeping a dustpan and brush on the inside to help get rid of any dirt on your bedding.

‘How can we keep pesky pests at bay? Wildlife sure are experts at penetrating defences!’

Lauren hasn’t really experienced issues with wildlife, as she camps with dogs and kids (so the noise probably keeps them at arm’s length). Neither has Ben. However, some general tips would be to keep food scraps secure, cover up and use insect repellents, set up orange lighting to deter bugs, and keep your tent zipped closed.

‘What is the best option for managing mozzies in particular when camping?’

As Ben’s wife is a mozzie-magnet, he suggests using EVERYTHING!

Some repellants include Thermocells, DEET, mosquito nets, sprays, and coils in still climates. For chemical-free prevention strategies, cover bare skin with long-sleeved clothing, keep screens and panels securely zipped, and simply factor a barrier of any kind into your camp set-up. For more tactics, check out Ep31 – Creepy Crawlies at the Campsite – or this blog on the many ways to repel bugs while camping.

‘How can I fix a snapped swag pole?’

For snapped fibreglass or alloy poles, the swag pole repair kit by Darche is a helpful henchman. For aluminium repairs, Darche offer two different kits – one for angular, segmental swags, and the other for arched hoops found in dome designs.

Replacement fibreglass poles of the same diameter can be sourced and simply cut to length, while repairing a breakage or snap is often done using the small tube-like sleeve (ferrule) included with most swags. Simply slide this over the top of the rupture and secure with duct tape for a temporary, stable fix lasting the remainder of a trip. Lauren demonstrates how to approach this in a Snowys YouTube video.

As for alloy poles, these are more difficult to repair or replace. Lauren and Ben suggest returning to the respective manufacturer for assistance.

‘Any unpacking, at-home rituals? Tips on gear checks and maintenance? Wet or windy weather activities?’

Ben and his family try to unpack straight away following a camping trip, before they do anything else. He generally makes notes while camping of anything that needs to be addressed or refilled, so it’s easy to sort everything upon arriving home. Lauren tends to leave it to the next day as she usually arrives home from her trips quite late. As her van is not their daily car, it doesn’t need to be unpacked straight away – however, she does take out the laundry, rubbish, and any leftover food.

In terms of activities on a rainy or windy day, Ben and Lauren suggest playing cards, games, reading a book, or listening to music to pass the time.

Ben loves making pizza and damper on the campfire. Image: Campfire

Camp Cooking and Food

‘Best coffee makers for camping?’

A good question for Ben, who maintains that the AeroPress or Wacaco are the most ideal coffee brewers out bush. While an AeroPress can simply be filled with water before a dash of cold milk, the Wacaco produces a traditional espresso shot that requires heated milk to produce an equally hot, hearty cup.

For the super hardcore hot coffee fanatics, some large silver stove-top setups produce espresso and steam milk simultaneously. Boiling the water builds up pressure, creating the shot and concurrently steaming the milk.

‘What’s your favourite recipe for camp stoves and open fires?’

In terms of campfire recipes, Ben loves making pizza and damper, while Lauren is a fan of a bacon and eggs brekkie or stewed lamb shanks in a camp oven. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Fire to Fork cookbook is a good place to start.

Camp stove cooking can be restrictive, but you could get fancy with pasta sauces or use a hotplate to cook a BBQ. Lauren mainly just pre-cooks meals at home and vacuum seals them to reheat in boiling water. This saves gas, time, and cleaning up.

Ben and Lauren chat with Fire to Fork’s Harry Fisher about all things campfire cooking:

‘What food is best to leave in the pantry for short overnight stops (product review on Back Country or Outdoor Gourmet food brands)?’

While Lauren and Ben have previously tapped into freeze-dried and dehydrated meals, they plan to present a more hands-on, detailed demonstration that offers a better sense of how these packet foods look, taste, and cook. Until then, Lauren offers her opinion, essentially describing them as hit-or-miss. Ben and Lauren often have opposing views depending on the brand or choice of meal, which is ultimately suggestive of how subjective freeze-dried and rehydrated food reviews really are.

The appeal of freeze-dried meals comes from their convenience on lightweight adventures, and so aren’t a pleasing enough substitute for a meal on occasions when standard food would otherwise be consumed. For example, Ben’s go-to pasta recipe on his most recent camping holiday used canned vegetables which, in comparison to packet meals, allowed a ‘fresher’-tasting dinner. That said, the Radix brand of freeze-dried food is commonly preferred over others, with a greater resemblance to standard meals.

Overall, Ben suggests canned or long-life food to keep overnight in the pantry, given no refrigeration is required. On that, products displaying a ‘best before’ date often has greater flexibility around the consumption timeline than that of a ‘use by’. That said, the further it surpasses its date stamp, the more it drops in quality and flavour.

Other alternatives include the Offgrid and Go Native brand of heat-and-eat packet food. Go Native is preserved via ‘retort packaging’. This method involves sealing the cooked food while still hot, as opposed to dehydrating. From here, the packet simply requires reheating with boiling water. Ben recommends this as a hearty alternative to other packet meals.

‘Best ultralight cutlery and crockery for hiking, at the lowest price?’

Our podcast hosts both agree that the Sea to Summit polypropylene set is the most cost-efficient and effective hiking cutlery, at just under five dollars per set. Bundled as a fork, spoon, and knife, simply link with a carabiner for a no-fuss food-friendly system. The Delta range of cutlery is shorter, constructed with durable polypropylene and the same reinforced nylon plastic, finished with a flexible plastic carabiner for keeping neat and collected amongst your clutter.  

For crockery, the Sea to Summit Delta bowl and/or plate is a lightweight option. When hiking, a bowl is generally all that’s required, while the additional plate often bodes better for a camping-style holiday.

Ultimately though, Lauren insists that if your camp cutlery isn’t comfortable to hold, the eating experience is thrown completely off course! For that reason – and all lightweight, cost-effective suggestions aside – she carries a set of standard steel cutlery in her camping kit.

Offgrid is an example of fresh, heat-and-eat packaged food, great for overnight stops. Image: Offgrid

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

‘The Snowys products Ben and Lauren couldn’t go without?’

A coffee connoisseur at the campsite, Ben’s response – an AeroPress – is hardly a surprise. His commonly coined nickname ‘Safety Ben’ has him sheepishly admitting that his choice should probably be something more along the lines of a first aid kit or a swag. Nonetheless, he can’t go without coffee – and wasn’t that the question?!

On the other hand, Lauren claims that her Scrubba Wash Bag and Collapsible Space Saving tubs are the most-used, well-loved, not-to-be-forgotten tackle in her pack. After not taking her washbag on her last getaway, she missed it more than she expected – while her collapsible tubs now allow far more room in her kitchen, holding large pats of butter, avocado halves, and wads of bacon.

‘Favoured Snowys products by Snowys staff?’

Jess from Customer Service: a sleeping bag liner. Versatile throughout both warm and wintery weather, this product also keeps her sleeping bag clean.

Sam from Customer Service: trekking poles. Be it for relieving pressure from the knees, hoisting herself up hills, checking the levels of mud holes before heaving across hip-deep, or flipped upside-down for use as tent poles – Sam believes that trekking poles offer true camping comradery.

Laine from the Web Team: a soft-sided cooler and luggage scales. Too often has he left beers behind at a BBQ in someone else’s fridge, so his cooler is now his personal, portable cranny for the cold ones. Thanks to his luggage scales too, he now beats getting burnt at the JetStar luggage check-in, previously packing too much tackle that wavered over the ideal weight.

Cory from IT: his fridge (for keeping his beer), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Cup (for drinking his beer), and Pacsafe waist wallet (…for buying his beer).

Leece from Customer Support: like Ben, an AeroPress – plus a Delta insulated cup.

Michael from the Web Team: a round jaffle iron! Leading up to his travels, Michael would purchase McDonald’s cheeseburgers to keep in the fridge. At the campsite, he simply cooked them in the jaffle iron over the campfire for an even faster fast-food fix!

Brett from the Web Team: the JetBoil Zip. Simply fill, clip, and boil – the perfect stripped-down, lightweight option for fast adventures, covering your coffee fix or for reheating a Radix meal. Lauren owns the JetBoil MiniMo – a short, stocky alternative – which perches perfectly and patiently for her prior to brewing a coffee or tea. An all-round, well-loved product in the Snowys family!

‘When will Snowys open a store in Sydney?’

Unfortunately, to Ben and Lauren’s knowledge, this won’t be a move Snowys will make in the foreseeable future. That said, the ever-evolving, ridgy-didge website successfully accommodates every Snowys supporter around the country!

From swags to Scrubba wash bags, there are some key items that Ben and Lauren can’t go camping without. Image: Darche

For an audio experience, tune into the following episodes as Ben and Lauren address the above questions:

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 65, 66, and 92 to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 1) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Staying cool and hydrated not only prevents discomfort, it also helps prevent more serious medical conditions such as heatstroke.

Read on for our tips on what to bring, how to stay cool and hydrated, and how to recognise the symptoms of dehydration and heat stroke when hiking.

Drinking enough water is important, but there are other factors to keep in mind too. Image: Grayl

What to Bring

1. Electrolyte Tablets/Powders

Replacing lost fluids is essential, but that’s not all you need to replenish. Electrolytes are very important for your body to maintain proper functioning.

Carry an electrolyte supplement in your rucksack at all times, whether it be in concentrate, powder, or tablet form. Also, add salty snacks like nuts or pretzels to your hiking menu to help your body retain water.

If weight is a problem, compact and lightweight electrolyte powders are the way to go. The Thorzt Solo Shots come in small 3-gram sachets, each making 600ml of hydration drink. These are perfect, as they take up minimal space. Skratch Labs also offer a good range. You can also find electrolytes supplements in tablet form.

Electrolytes are important, so incorporate them into your hydration routine. Image: Nuun

2. Easy-To-Use Hydration System

It’s important always remain motivated to hydrate, but this can be a little tricky when you’re exhausted and hot. If your current hydration system isn’t working for you, it’s worth changing it up.

Whether your bladder or reservoir is uncomfortable to use, or your soft bottle is too cumbersome – ensure that hydrating is as easy as possible, so it doesn’t fall by the wayside.

If the mouthpiece isn’t right, or the bottle isn’t comfy to hold then change it before your trip. Image: Kelly Thompson

3. Use a Cooling Necktie or Towel

If no-one agrees to following you around with an oversized banana leaf to fan you, or your air conditioner doesn’t quite fit in your rucksack – the next best thing is a Kool Tie.

Kool Ties are neckties filled with polymer crystals. Just soak them for 30-45 minutes, and the crystals will absorb the water. Simply hang it around your neck and the water will evaporate, cooling you down. For a similar effect, you could also wet a bandana, or use a Chill Towel.

A Kool Tie is basically a personal evaporative cooling system. Image: Erin Wescombe

3. Instant Ice Packs

If you suspect that you or your hiking buddy has heat stroke, call for medical attention immediately. In the meantime, you’ll need to attempt to cool yourselves down.

Seek shade immediately, lie down, and apply an instant ice pack to both the back of your neck and under the arms.

Instant ice packs are readily available at pharmacies, or in larger first aid kits. If your kit is missing one, definitely add it.

An instant ice pack can cool you down in an emergency.

How to Avoid Dehydration & Stay Cool

1. Drink Before You Hike

Anyone who has completed a multi-day hike will tell you that drinking a litre of water every morning helps you to stay on top of hydration. This way, you’re not just replacing fluids when your body needs them. For more on hydrating on a multi-day hike in hot and dry conditions, check out this article.

Drink water before you leave your campsite in the morning. Image: MSR

2. Wear Appropriate Clothing

Wear lightweight and loose long sleeves to shield from the sun’s heat and keep you cool. It’s generally best to avoid fabrics such as cotton, as this fabric doesn’t wick away sweat. Instead, choose nylon or polyester fabric in clothes designed especially for hiking.

Longer sleeves may seem counterintuitive, but they’ll act as a sun shield. Image: Biolite

3. Seek Shade

This may not always be possible depending on the terrain – but when stopping for a snack or rest break, do so in the shade. If you can coordinate your rest periods under a tree, you’ll give your body the break it needs from the sun.

Research the area in advance, and check out other blogs and forums to find where offers shelter. Also, when the weather is warm, take a longer rest than you normally would.

If shade is scarce, make the most of it when you see it. Image: Ben Collaton

4. Sun Protection

You should wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to protect your skin. This will not only prevent UV damage and sunburn, it’ll also help shield you from the heat.

For shorter-day hikes where mobile reception is available, one of the best apps to use is SunSmart. It indicates when the UV levels are high, will notify you when to reapply sunscreen, and provides you with the UV levels of your location.

5. Get a Head Start!

If you start your hike early, you’ll finish in the early afternoon and avoid the hottest part of the day. Spending less time in the heat means you won’t put your body through as much stress.

If you set off early, you can beat the hottest part of the day. Image: Grayl

How to Recognise Dehydration

Symptoms to be aware of are:

• Infrequent urination
• Dark and small volumes of urine
• A headache
• Dry mouth
• Dizziness
• Rapid breathing

Symptoms of Heat Exhaustion

Take note of how your body is faring every step of the way, especially if you experience:

• Confusion
• Dark urine
• Fatigue
• A headache
• Muscle or abdominal cramps
• Nausea, vomiting, or diarrhoea
• Profuse sweating
• Rapid heartbeat

Symptoms of Heat Stroke

Heat stroke is a very serious condition. Take note if you see anyone on your hike showing these signs:

• Dizziness
• Light-headedness
• A throbbing headache
• Lack of sweating, despite the heat
• Red, hot skin
• Muscle weakness or cramps
• Nausea and vomiting
• Rapid, shallow breathing
• Rapid heartbeat

Some multi-day hikes like Larapinta or Kokoda are always warm, so prepare accordingly. Image: Eve Woods

Keep in mind that here at Snowys, we are not medical experts. We can only give you guidelines about what to do and look out for in these situations.

If you have any medical conditions or requirements, get in touch with your GP for more information. Before a multi-day hike, ensure you have the go-ahead from a medical professional.

If you like to explore off the beaten path frequently, it’s also worth updating your First Aid skills. A PLB or satellite phone should also be on you at all times.

Stay Cool, Hydrated and Safe on the Trails

Whether you’re out in the heat at work, spending a day at the beach, or going for a run – it’s essential that hydration is factored in.

No-one wants their well-planned adventure to go awry. So, pack the right gear, stay cool, and keep hydrated.

Happy hiking!

Have you ever experienced dehydration or heat stroke on the trail? How did you deal with it? 

The post Prevent Dehydration & Keep Cool When Hiking appeared first on Snowys Blog.

• Water
• Food
• Communication

While their ranking is arguable, this blog describes the importance of each on every off-grid getaway, and how to maintain self-sufficiency within your four-wheeled headquarters!

Buckle up, drink up, keep in touch – and read on!

Water cans on the swing out of the 4WD (reserves for emergency situations). 

Water

Water seems so simple: it’s a liquid, it’s transparent, and it’s thirst-quenching!

However, when travelling remotely in your vehicle, water is the most important consideration of all.

Four-Wheeled Drive (4WD) self-sufficiency is:

• Carrying your water
• Transporting your food
• Moving your fuel
• Having a reliable communication link and
• Recovering your vehicle if it gets stuck

While the ranking of food, fuel, communication, and recovery gear could be argued, water is definitely the most important factor to consider when travelling to a remote area. You can’t live without it for more than about 3 days!

When travelling remotely in your vehicle, water is the most important consideration of all. Image: Darche 

How Much is Needed?

To be safe in a remote area, you should have 200% more water than you need for survival. The volume needed for survival equates to 2-3L drinking water per person, per day.

If you have calculated your requirements at the common 5L per person, per day, or 10L in desert areas (which accounts for everything: drinking, washing up, brushing teeth, etc.), you should end up with a volume of water that includes the contingency or doubled drinking water for survival.

For example: 3 people are spending 5 days in the Kimberly region of Western Australia.

• Survival water requirements: 3 people x 5 days x 2L/ day = 30L
• Total water requirements: 3 people x 5 days x 5L/ day = 75 L

200% of the amount required for survival is 60L, so 75L should cover this group. If you’re spending time in a remote area and you want to be truly self-sufficient, you need to carry a fair volume of water. Thankfully, there are a few options when it comes to storing water in your 4WD:

• A water tank: constructed from stainless-steel or hard plastic, and fitted under the vehicle in the cargo area or in an unused space. This can store a large amount of water (often 150L plus). Make sure the tank is easy to fill and access water from.
• Jerry cans: plastic types specifically for water come in a variety of sizes; usually holding 10 or 20 litres. Keep in mind that a 20L jerry full of water is quite heavy and can be difficult to wrangle around the campsite!
• 10L water cubes: the square boxed water from the supermarket! You do need to handle these gently, and they can also be hard to squeeze those last few drops of water from!
• Small plastic bottles: the 24-packs at the supermarket. These are good because they split your water storage into multiple containers.

If you want to be truly self-sufficient in a remote area, you need to carry a fair volume of water. Image: Darche

Left to Right: 10L Alpine Jug, 2L Water Bladder, 10L Water Cube, 750ml Bottle, 10L and 20L Jerry Cans.

Carry Your Water Across Multiple Containers

A good rule of thumb is to always have your water supply in multiple containers. This way, if one becomes contaminated or damaged, not too much is lost (which could otherwise become life-threatening very quickly).

Water is heavy, so try to position your water containers nice and low inside the vehicle, ideally between the front and back axles. Carrying water on roof racks raises the vehicle’s centre of gravity, making it unstable (and who wants their water sitting in the sun all day anyway?).

Don’t forget to consider the presence of water-borne illnesses. Read our article ‘Guide to Safe Hydration & Water Purification’ for tips on keeping your water safe to drink.

Food

Nobody wants to go hungry on a camping trip! Good tucker is a great morale booster, and the way you transport food can save time and hassle at the campsite.

We know that water is the most important consideration when travelling in your vehicle. Food is not essential for immediate survival, as you can survive for 3 weeks or more without it. That said, a lack of it makes for an uncomfortable trip at the least, and after a few days, your energy levels and mental concentration will diminish. Yes, living on canned food and pumpernickel bread is possible, but it gets a little ordinary after a while. Fresh food takes you into the realm of true self-sufficiency; so it’s best take plenty, and keep it fresh!

Carrying Fresh Food and Keeping it Cool

A vehicle fridge enables any perishable food and drink to be taken into remote areas. The most common type of fridge/freezer is compressor-driven, called a ‘two-way’. This means it can be powered by 12V or 240V electricity. Sizes range from 15L to 110L, with the common sizes sitting around 60L.

Ben and Lauren discuss tips to keep food fresh on the Snowys Camping Show podcast:

Yes, living on canned food is possible, but it gets a little ordinary after a while. Image: Darche

Storing Food

There are many storage solutions, but plastic kitchen containers are more than suitable. These are cheap to buy, airtight, and come in an array of shapes and sizes. You can find some with little internal compartments for a selection of spices or tea-bags, or enormous containers for holding bulky essentials like breakfast cereals or flour.

For softer and liquid foods like jam or UHT milk, make sure to double up the containers or put these foods in plastic bags first. That way, it won’t leak everywhere in the case of breakage.

Vacuum sealers are also available, and handy devices for keeping food fresh and flavoursome for longer.

Emergency Supplies

It pays to always keep a few spare tins of canned food like baked beans, ‘Man Cans’, and tinned vegetables stowed away in your vehicle, in case you exhaust your fresh food or your fridge calls it quits! Check out Quick and Easy Food for Camping and Hiking for some instant meal options that make for great emergency supplies.

A 12V camp fridge is great for reliably storing food. Photo: Dometic Waeco

Communication

Having plenty of food and water while you’re stranded is all well and good – but if help isn’t coming, it becomes a little superfluous! Communication equipment is essential for self-sufficiency so you can call for help in case of an emergency.

There are a few options available for the 4WDer, ranging from short- to long-distance, and cheap to dear.

UHF Radios (Short-Distance Comms)

UHF radios have a range of up to 20km, depending on the power of the radio (measured in Watts), antenna, and local terrain. While you may be able to call someone on the same 4WD track as you nearby, a UHF won’t cut it in remote areas where the closest people are likely hundreds of kilometres away!

For longer-distance communication, High-Frequency (HF) radios or satellite phones are more effective. That said, these units can be expensive to purchase.

HF Radios (Long-Distance Comms)

HF radios are mostly found installed in vehicles used for remote outback travel. Although the initial cost is quite high, there are virtually no ongoing costs.

They can be susceptible to interference though, and won’t work if your car battery has run flat. That said, there is a strong community of HF users around Australia – so contact with someone helpful is almost guaranteed.

There are a few communication options available for the 4WDer. Image: Darche

An Ultra-High-Frequency (UHF) radio is one of the most common pieces of equipment found in a 4WD.

Satellite Phones (A Good Hire Option)

A satellite phone is another effective option. They’re also more accessible to the average outback traveller who might only manage a few trips a year.

It can be operated from anywhere with a clear view of the sky (e.g. not within a canyon), has good call quality, and is portable – so can be removed from your car on walks.

Hiring is the best option, which is possible from many places at a reasonable cost. The price of calls and text messages can seem outrageous – but for emergency use, this isn’t a factor anyway.

Distress Beacons (A Last Resort)

Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) are used when 4WDing. When activated, these emit a signal to let authorities know that you need help. Some will also send a GPS location, so you can be located quicker.

A ‘Spot’ device is not a PLB, but can transmit your location coordinates and messages such as ‘All is OK’ or ‘Need help’ to family or friends. It is a very good idea to carry a PLB in remote areas, as a last resort in a life-threatening emergency. We carry PLB’s at Snowys and recommend Electric Bug to assist you with any other outback communication needs.

HF Radios are designed for long-range radio connecting cruisers to one another.

A satellite phone is more accessible to the average outback traveller who might only manage a few trips a year. Image: Darche

How do you carry water when travelling in your vehicle? Do you have any nifty tips for storing water and food? Have you ever been in an emergency situation that required the use of one of these communication devices? Let us know in the comments!

The post 3 Steps to 4WD Self-Sufficiency appeared first on Snowys Blog.

If you’ve decided to upgrade from the trusty tent or swag, this article will guide you through many of the considerations when buying your first camper trailer. There’s a reason so many camper trailers pop up on the market after only one or two uses! Sometimes circumstances change, but often the wrong camper trailer is purchased for the job… and that can be an expensive and painful mistake to learn.

So, what should you think about upon buying your first camper trailer?

A hard floor camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

What Can You Tow?

If you have no intention of changing your tow vehicle, this is the best place to start. Find out what your maximum towing capacity is, as well as the maximum tow ball weight, GVM, and GCM. If you aren’t sure about all this, take a few minutes to read this 4WD towing guide.

There are a lot of people out there towing trailers that are not legal, and this puts the drivers (and others on the road) at considerable risk. Some camper trailers are light (around 500kg), and some are extremely heavy (around 3 tonnes!).

The tow ball weight is one to pay particular attention to, as heavy tow ball weights can make life difficult when attempting to remain underweight for most 4WDs on the market.

Where Do You Want to Take It?

The next step is to really think about where you’d like to travel with your camper trailer. There’s a reason so many types and duty levels exist on the market today. Some owners just want something comfortable to tow up bitumen road on the way to their regular caravan park a few times a year, and others want to hammer their trailer on the roughest 4WD tracks in Australia and pull up in comfort for months on end!

Where you want to take your camper trailer ultimately determines the strength and quality that you’ll need and, like anything, how much it’s going to cost!

Travelling the NT with a camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Budget

There are more camper trailers on the market than ever before; well over 100 different brands. Some are new, some have been around for a long time, and every couple of months a few close down. The prices of camper trailers vary anywhere from around $5000 to $200,000 and the industry is extremely competitive.

Often the pricing reflects what you get, but not always. The takeaway from this point is to set yourself a budget and don’t look at anything outside of this – it’s just too confusing. You can get yourself a good quality, second-hand, Australian-made camper trailer for $10,000–$20,000 that ticks the boxes for a lot of people. What you spend is entirely up to you – but don’t get ripped off!

Types of Camper Trailers

Once you start poking around camper trailers, you’ll see there are a lot of different designs. Soft floor, hard floor, rear fold, forward fold, hybrid, and pop-top are about the most common arrangements. That said, there are a heap of very intuitive designs out there today that grey the lines between their specific camper trailer types. They all have their own pros and cons, and you must get what works for you.

You’ll notice there are many different designs of camper trailers. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Soft floor, hard floor, rear fold, forward fold, hybrid, and pop-top are about the most common arrangements. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Attend a 4WD/Camping Show

The easiest place to suss out a heap of camper trailers in a short period of time is the local Caravan/Camping/4WD shows. It makes things so much easier.

Setup Time

A soft-floor camper trailer is great, but the setup and pack away can be time-consuming, difficult, and can ultimately affect where and how long you can stay. Single-night stays are not always worth the effort. You can find camper trailers that set up in under a minute with zero effort – or, on the flip side, soft floor campers with extra rooms that will literally take two people an hour to set up!

Setup time might not matter if you only use your trailer a few times a year. If you are setting it up and packing it away every single day for weeks on end though, it will get old – really fast!

4WD expert Aaron’s soft floor camper trailer near Broome. Image: Aaron Schubert

Off-Grid Capacity

We live in the ‘lucky’ country. Not only do we have some fantastic caravan parks, but world-class national parks and some of the best free or low-cost camping in the world. Where you camp is entirely up to you, but one of the major factors to consider when buying a camper trailer is how long you can survive off the grid for.

This refers to your ability to live out of your camper trailer without plugging into water, power, and sewage, like many do in caravan parks. For camper trailers, your water tank size, electrical system (solar and batteries), fridge size, showering facilities, and toilets usually cover off-grid capacity.

If you have a large enough electrical system to run your appliances and charge them via solar or a generator each day, your limitation is usually water supply. Some camper trailers are only really set up for a night or two away from power and water, and others can last weeks. It can be expensive to modify this, so spend some time looking into it!

Camping at a caravan park. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Some camper trailers are only really set up for a night or two away from power and water, and others can last weeks. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

How Often Will You Use the Camper Trailer?

If you’ve not done much camping before, and you aren’t completely obsessed with it, think about how much use the camper trailer will get. You can hire them out from lots of different places these days, and sometimes it’s a cheaper and easier alternative than buying your own and looking after it.

This is also a good consideration in terms of how much you might spend, and what level of comfort you need. If it’s just for the annual holiday, you might be okay doing without some creature comforts. If you want to live in it for a year though, that’s a different kettle of fish!

Are You Prepared to Pay to Keep It?

Camper trailers need space to live and require rego, maintenance, and insurance. This can vary a lot, depending on what state you are in and the value/age of your trailer, but they aren’t free to own. While not nearly as expensive as a boat (in general), they can cost a chunk of money when replacing worn components and keeping them insured.

Think about how often you’re going to use your camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Storage and Payload

A key reason for buying a camper trailer is for the extra storage. For families with a new baby in tow, the amount of extra gear you need to take along for a comfortable camping trip is ridiculous!

Some camper trailers have very limited storage options for your gear and a fridge. Think about where you will put your clothes, fridge, solar panels, toiletries, kitchen gear, food, kids’ gear, and whatever else.

Next, have a good look at the payload. This refers to the amount of weight you can legally add onto/into the trailer, and is the difference between the ATM and the tare. Some camper trailers have a tiny payload, with only 300kg to play with. After you fill your LPG bottles and water tanks, you are already close to the limit – and that’s before any extras!

What’s the Build Quality Like?

Like anything, take the time to look at the build quality. Chassis construction, suspension, canvas thickness, door and hatch seals, wiring and plumbing, and overall finish are all aspects you want to look carefully into. There are a lot of imported trailers on the market now, which are either entirely or partially made overseas, then shipped in and sold off to the local market.

Some of these are good quality, some are terrible. The build quality needs to reflect how much you are going to use it and where you intend to take it. Buy the cheapest international import camper trailer and abuse it on the worst tracks in Australia, and it will fall apart!

If you’re not into rock-hopping, chassis-twisting activities, maybe settle for a trailer with sound construction that can be easily improved – like raising its height, strengthening the springs, installing stone guards, leading power cables inside the frame, or replacing the ball coupling with a TREG hitch.

Whether you buy an all-in-one camper trailer or the tent and trailer separately, keep in mind you can do a lot of the relevant alternations yourself. This will save a lot of money, rather than buying a more expensive rig.

A camper trailer provides you with plenty of space. Image: Aaron Schubert

Lucky for stone guards! Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Space

A floor area of roughly 2×2.6m isn’t huge, but a decent size for two people, with a small table, and two chairs. A 2.5×3.1m awning space is adequate and usable too. Many camper trailers allow you to add on rooms too. If your family is growing, check whether the camper you have your eye on will accommodate this.

Kitchen

A lot of camper trailers feature kitchens as their major selling point, and some have brilliant configurations. That said, you might want to opt for a trailer without the proverbial kitchen sink! Some people have a permanent kitchen set up in the back of their vehicle instead, so they can off at short notice with either a tent or the camper trailer.

If your family is growing, check whether the camper you have your eye on will accommodate this. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Take into consideration how functional your camper trailer will be. Image: Aaron Schubert

Do Your Own Research – And Lots Of It!

Jump on Google and look around for reviews on the model you’re chasing. There are often a lot of Facebook camper trailer groups too, which are a gold mine for common problems and their solutions, modifications, or upgrades. Don’t rely on the salespeople – they often leave out half of the truth to make a sale!

Nothing is Perfect

If it makes you feel any better, there is no perfect camper trailer! Everything you look at will result in one or more forms of compromise. It might be too heavy, too big, too expensive, too slow to set up, lacking some functionality… whatever it may be, our advice is simple: make a list of the things you must have, can do without, and would simply like to have, then find whatever ticks the most boxes.

Not every camper trailer is going to be liked by every prospective buyer, and that’s what makes them unique.

There’s Nothing Wrong with Second-Hand!

There are a huge number of second-hand camper trailers on the market, ranging from single-use through to years of enjoyment. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a second-hand buy, providing you know what you are getting.

Hire Before Buying

If you are looking at new trailers, often you can hire the unit prior to putting cash down. This will be deducted from the purchase price. It’s a clever idea, as you’ll soon know whether or not it suits you.

An Ultimate Off-Road Campers camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Enjoy It!

When you eventually settle on a camper trailer, enjoy it! Take your time to do things slowly; it’s an adjustment, and it’s easy to forget everything that needs to be done. Enjoy the extra luxury that you have behind your tow vehicle, and create amazing memories!

See you out there!

Are you thinking of upgrading your current shelter to a camper trailer? 

The post Guide to Buying a Camper Trailer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Sometimes, there’s just no way around it: you need to change your camping clothes, especially if you are away for longer than a few days. Perhaps they are dirty enough to stand up on their own, or maybe you’ve pulled into a town and have decided to treat yourself to a meal out? Then there are just those occasions when you’re booked into a day tour and feel like wearing a fresher outfit. Whatever the reason, washing laundry while camping is, for the most part, a necessary chore.

Here are just a few tips to keep up your sleeve when planning your next trip.

Sometimes, there’s just no way around it: you need to change your camping clothes. Image: Scrubba

Sometimes the next caravan park is too many days away, so a bush washing line does the job.

Wash ‘n Wear

There are many options for washing on the road; it doesn’t matter if you are touring, base camping, driving a 4WD, car camping, or travelling by bicycle – it is inevitable that you will need to wash something on your travels (even if it’s just your underwear).

First things first, allow me to debunk any notion in favour of packing extra garments in an attempt to avoid washing. You will gather an increasingly full bag of dirty laundry, and it’s false to believe this is advantageous; it will only clutter your limited camp storage, even if you’re using a laundry bag. If your clothes aren’t obviously soiled or smelly, don’t bother washing them. Surprisingly, this saves a lot of time, arguments, and precious real estate on your drying line!

If your travel plans include an overnight stay in a caravan park, this is a good time to cycle through one larger load where you can get both the clothes and bedding done. Take advantage of the extra-wide communal line and hang everything out to sun-dry. Take that time to enjoy a cuppa or a swim!

You may not want to wear the same underwear every day, but dark colours are good to pack. Image: Elemental

The communal clothesline in a caravan park is great for getting everything dry.