Day Trips in Mparntwe (Alice Springs): Part 1

As an alternative to travelling busy roads to crowded campsites, this year we settled on ‘Alice’ as a perfect base to explore Red Centre highlights. It’s not difficult to see a few in a day – but with time to see them slowly, we appreciated the strong individuality of each gorge, chasm, museum, and art space.

This is the first of two instalments of the­ amazing things we discovered to do around Alice Springs – all of which can be accessed by two-wheel drive vehicles.

The area is known as Mparntwe to the original inhabitants.

Town Base

Despite a large multicultural population, it’s both the strong influence of the Arrernte people (who have lived in the region for tens of thousands of years) and the Central Australian desert colours that impact Alice Springs and its environs. The area (known as Mparntwe to the original inhabitants) and the city itself are surrounded by weathered, sun-drenched, rocky ranges that are constantly changing colour.

It’s All About the Timing

Anzac Hill

Sunrise and sunset from Anzac Hill, with panoramic views over the city, is highly recommended. Don’t make the common mistake of missing the pre-dawn light. To see the best colour, arrive half an hour before sunrise and watch it unfold. The same applies to sunset. After the sun sets below the horizon, you witness ever-changing hues of deflected light.

To see the best colour, arrive half an hour before sunrise and watch it unfold.

Pre-dawn at Anzac Hill

Pre-dawn at Anzac Hill

Watching the sunset from Anzac Hill is also highly recommended.

Witness the ever-changing hues of deflected light after the sun sets below the horizon.

Simpsons Gap

Just 20 minutes down the road is the permanent waterhole, Simpsons Gap. Although impressive during the day, it is beautiful during dawn and dusk. The light plays on the ancient ghost gums and towering cliffs, where resident black-footed rock wallabies often emerge by the made pathway.

Like many sights detailed in this blog, The Gap is on the Larapinta walking trail. It can also be accessed by riding the Simpsons Gap Bike Path from Alice Springs (34-kilometre return trip). If walking or riding, avoid the heat of the middle of the day and take plenty of water.

Larapinta Drive

Larapinta Drive

While impressive during the day, Simpsons Gap is beautiful during dawn and dusk.

The light plays on the ancient ghost gums and towering cliffs of Simpsons Gap.

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Although we went on a different day trip, nearby is the quartzite rock narrow passage of Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye). The Chasm is along a 30-minute trail and is best seen in the middle of the day; the sun rallies overhead and bathes the cliffs in a magnificent light.

Privately owned and operated by the Western Arrernte people, the traditional custodians welcome all respectful visitors to explore this beautiful cultural site. There is a small entry charge, and the profits have been used to good effect. The pathway and signage are also well-planned and maintained. The website has full details of the kiosk, gift shop and camping and access for both self-guided visits or the series of authentic Arrernte experience tours.

In the middle of the day, the sun rallies overhead and bathes the cliffs in a magnificent light.

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

West and Water

Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge, and Serpentine Gorge

Another full day can be spent hopping between waterholes in the Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park, stretching for 161 kilometres west of Alice Springs.

Here you will find Ellery Creek Big Hole, as well as Ormiston, Redbank, and Serpentine Gorges – each different, all worth visiting. Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek are the best known of this West Macs’ quartet, but also the most crowded.

If you’d like to avoid the crowd, venture into Redbank Gorge-Rwetyepme. This near-permanent (and very cold) swimming hole is 155 kilometres west of Alice Springs, at the base of Mount Sonder.

The two-kilometre, 1.5-hour return walk from the car park is along the creek bed and an uneven path. The route involves scrambling over large rock boulders, so not suitable for everyone. Serpentine is less rewarding; more user-friendly with a rough, rocky approach.

Another full day can be spent hopping between waterholes in the Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park. Pictured: Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ormiston, Redbank, and Serpentine Gorges are each different, but all worth visiting.

Redbank Gorge

The rocks of Redbank Gorge

Serpentine Gorge

Serpentine Gorge is hot and rough!

Ochre Pits, Glen Helen Gorge, and Hermannsburg Historic Precinct

The colourful Ochre Pit is a little way up the blacktop and worth a look – but there is little shade here, so something to consider if it’s hot.

Another good West Macs stop is the scenic Glen Helen Gorge, which can be either easily added to the day or seen later. History, heritage and a drink with a view! We chose to visit on a separate day trip approaching from the other direction, after the Hermannsburg Historic Precinct.

This former Lutheran mission is now owned by the Western Arrarnta people and managed collaboratively with them by Finke River Mission. It was a focal point for the Arrarnta people as they struggled to survive the impacts of European colonisation, later struggling to provide sustainable livelihoods in an ever-changing world.

The precinct is probably best known as the home of Albert Namatjira: the famous indigenous watercolour artist who developed a distinctive Aboriginal school of Central Australian landscape painting. Namatjira’s work is widely acclaimed and exhibited around the world.

Ochre Pits

Glen Helen Gorge: history, heritage and a drink with a view!

Glen Helen Gorge

There are restored and original buildings to inspect – and if you’re fortunate, the Kata Anga Tea rooms will be open with their famous apple strudel, and scones with jam and cream.

Glen Helen is about 30 minutes’ up the road with spectacular landscape and impressive birdlife, with entry via Glen Helen Lodge. The trail leads you from the reception restaurant and bar along the riverbank by a succession of season-dependent tracks, under the eye-catching sandstone wall that towers above you.

It’s possible to make it all the way to edge of the gorge passage, but it is difficult to see around it. Lilos or canoes are recommended here, and it’s advised only strong swimmers continue through the gap. There is little opportunity to get out of the deep water without a steep and strenuous climb.

Mount Ziel

The return to Alice Springs from Glen Helen takes you past the Mount Ziel lookout. Take the climb to the top of the hill and look across the plains west to Gosses Bluff Meteorite Crater. From there, it is an easy drive back to town in good time for dinner!

Gosses Bluff Meteorite Crater from Mount Ziel

Have you ever explored Alice Springs (Mparntwe)? What’s your favourite part?