Dating back as far as the 1930s, the basic concept of today’s roof top tents has, surprisingly, not changed a great deal. It’s a tent with a solid base that is mounted to the existing roof racks on your vehicle. Nowadays, there are both hard shell and soft shell variations. With the latter, a telescopic ladder doubles as a leverage point for opening up the tent – essentially creating an easy, pop-up solution!

There are many schools of thought around RTTs – some campers swear by them and others would rather spend their money on a different setup. Be you in favour or against, there are a bunch of questions worth asking before you make the decision:

• Is a roof top tent worth it?
• What are the pros and cons?
• Can my car support a roof top tent?
• What should I look for and consider when buying a roof top tent?
• What are the mounting options?
• Hard shell or soft shell?
• Which roof top tent is right for me?

So, we’ve done our best to answer some of these questions and help you choose the best roof top tent for you!

Darche roof top tents include the Hi-View range, the Panorama, the Intrepidor, and the Ridgeback Hard Shell in canvas and eco variations. Image: Darche

Is a Roof Top Tent Worth It?

There’s no point pretending otherwise, so we’re just going to tell it straight: yep, roof top tents are an investment, and the answer to whether or not they’re worth it is largely dependent on who you are, and what setup suits you and your adventure the most.

Depending on brand, size, features, quality, warranty, and more – roof top tents can range from $1000 to upward of $5,000. Then there are additional accessories such as annexes, racks, rails, anti-condensation mats, etc. It can all add up, and before you know it you’ve burned a serious hole in your wallet!

But – there are, arguably, more pros than cons to buying a roof top tent.

One of the great things about a roof top tent is they allow you to camp just about anywhere. Image: Darche

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Super fast setup
• They allow a safe and comfortable sleep almost anywhere
• Off the ground – great when camping on tricky terrain, or to get away from creepy crawlies, snakes, and wild animals (including crocs, excluding drop bears!)
• More affordable than a camper trailer, camper, or off-road van
• The good ones can last up to 15 years!
• Bearing the load on top frees up space inside your vehicle
• A great alternative to towing
• They don’t affect your driving speed (*however, there’s a matching ‘con’)
• The mattress and bedding can be left inside when packed away

Cons:

• They’re heavy
• They cost more than a tent or swag
• Although driving speed is unaffected, RTTs increase drag and, therefore, fuel consumption (*this is the matching ‘con’ to the driving speed ‘pro’)
• If not mounted correctly, or if the weight exceeds your vehicle’s capacity, you risk damaging your vehicle (which can be costly and will void your insurance)
• You have to pack up to move your vehicle, whereas you can leave a tent at the campsite while exploring and day tripping
• They’re not necessarily suitable for family camping with young kids or those with limited mobility, since there is a lot of climbing involved
• They’re best removed from your vehicle between trips, so you need two people to lift the RTT on and off and somewhere to store it when not in use

Darche’s Intrepidor is the cheapest in their range and comes with a sky window for gazing at the stars. Image: Darche

Can My Car Support a Roof Top Tent?

The most important factor to consider before buying a roof top tent is your vehicle!

‘Will this roof top tent fit on my roof racks?’

This, or variations of it, is hands-down our most FAQ from customers. Nevertheless, despite a mountain of accumulated knowledge amongst the Snowys crew, we are not legally allowed to provide a definitive answer – nor can the brand of said roof top tent. However, the good news is that a roof rack specialist, like Rhino Rack, can!

You need to know the load rating of your roof racks AND your vehicle’s roof load capacity. The first, as already mentioned, can be answered by a roof rack specialist, or should be detailed in the paperwork you received when purchasing your racks. The second question regarding the roof load capacity of your vehicle should, again, be detailed in your vehicle’s manual – or, contact the manufacturer.

Roof top tents are heavy, so you need to make sure your vehicle and roof racks can take the weight. Image: Darche

The load capacity of your vehicle’s roof is the maximum weight that can physically be accommodated by the roof. It’s illegal to exceed this maximum weight capacity. To do so is not only dangerous but will also risk damage to your vehicle, and will void any insurance!

Just so we’re really clear, there are two weight capacities to be aware of. One is the maximum load your roof racks can carry, the other is the maximum load your vehicle’s roof can carry. Your roof racks will often accommodate a heavier load than your vehicle’s roof.

Be aware that the physical weight of your roof racks needs to be calculated in addition to the weight of the roof top tent, and the sum of those figures is the weight that must not exceed your vehicle’s roof load capacity.

Furthermore, if you plan to carry any additional gear on your roof – gas cylinder, jerry cans, swag, etc. – the weight of these items also needs to be factored in. Triple check your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) specifications – the GVM is the maximum allowed weight of the vehicle for driving on the road, and includes passengers, cargo, etc.

It’s important to factor in all your cargo when calculating the total weight. Image: Darche

Considerations When Buying a Roof Top Tent

• Your budget – balance how much you are willing to spend/invest with the frequency of use
• Sleeping capacity and how many people you need to cater for
• What setup and style of camping you prefer – remote, off-road/4WDing, beach, riverside, touring, family, solo, couple (this blog and this blog may help)
• Dimensions – in use and packed, including low-profile/aerodynamic options
• Weight – see the previous section, plus, ‘Hard Shell or Soft Shell’ section below
• Mounting – more on this below
• Features – skylights, seam sealing, mat thickness, ladder, Light Suppression Technology (LST), pre-fitted racks (for solar panels, SUPs, surfboards, recovery tracks, etc.)
• Build quality – materials, construction, components (brackets, etc.)
• Waterhead rating
• Ventilation/condensation – windows and built-in air vents
• Manufacturer’s warranty
• Do you want an annex? Not all RTTs are compatible with annexes

What features do you want in a roof top tent?

Mounting Options

Here’s something that is often overlooked – you don’t have to mount a roof top tent onto the roof of your vehicle!

There are other options worth considering, especially if you are on the fence and the only thing stopping you is the thought of the daily pack down so you can drive somewhere.

Most roof top tents can be mounted on two horizontal roof rack bars, and are then fixed at four points. Therefore, mounting can also be done to a freestanding frame, a trailer, or a boat trailer, where some people weld a frame over the top. Either setup allows you to unhitch and use your car for whatever you need.

They can also be mounted to Ute trays, whilst still leaving room for additional cargo in the tray itself. Just fix the roof rack bars to the tray walls across the width.

An additional point to note for those choosing to mount in the usual way – i.e. on the roof of your vehicle – is to ensure you have enough clearance for your antenna. Yep, you’d better believe it, it’s a mistake that’s been done many times before and many a curse word has ensued!

Roof top tents can be mounted on trailers. Image: Darche

Hard Shell or Soft Shell?

Is one better than the other? We could just about fill another pros and cons list here, but it boils down to three main considerations – cost, longevity, and weight.

Hard Shell

As their name suggests, hard shell roof top tents have a hard cover that is either constructed of fibreglass, plastic, or aluminium. They are hinged on one side and open up rather like a clamshell.

Hard shell RTTs tend to be on the heavier side which makes them more suitable for gutsier vehicles that allow for heavier loads, e.g. a dual-cab Ute with canopy. While they are more expensive, the additional weight and cost do come with perks…

They last longer, especially those with an aluminium cover and steel components! They also allow for additional roof rails where solar panels, recovery boards, SUPs, surfboards, etc., can be carried (so long as the weight of these is accounted for!). Generally, hard shells are faster to erect too, but not as flexible.

23Zero’s Saber Hard Shell uses gas struts to assist with opening and closing. Image: 23Zero

Soft Shell

Soft shell roof top tents are more in line with the original 1930s design and allow for a larger footprint. They are cheaper than hard shells but do not tend to have the same lifespan.

Most soft shell RTTs are of canvas construction – however, there are a few entry-level models using alternative materials.

Darche’s Hi-View 1400 is tough, durable, and compatible with the 1400 annex. Image: Darche

Which Roof Top Tent is Right For Me?

Roof top tents are one of the most convenient ways to camp and they are perfect for those who love to get away regularly, especially going off-road.

For Smaller Vehicles

Darche Intrepidor 3 1400 Roof Top Tent (Soft Shell)

When it comes to your comfort, this tent goes above (your vehicle) and beyond. With a lightweight structure, it can fit smaller SUVs and soft roaders, as well as most others. A softshell design enables a quick setup and pack-down, with a high-density mattress included for convenience and enough room for sleeping gear to remain stored when collapsed. Large, zippered windows and an adjustable fly provide maximum ventilation, prevent condensation, increase airflow, and protect from creepy crawlies. Admire the stars comfortably through the sky window, while a 1500mm water rating and seam sealing promises cosy, dry dreaming! Overall, this tent offers robust reliability and door-busting durability in the great outdoors.

When it comes to comfort, the Intrepidor goes above (your vehicle) and beyond! Image: Darche

Affordable All-Rounders

23Zero Dakota Roof Top Tents (Soft Shell)

The Dakota features 23ZERO’s Light Suppression Technology (LST), a dark coating on the inner walls that diffuses sunlight for darker mornings and cooler summers. Its durable 280 gsm polycotton tear-check canvas features a fine PVC coated insect mesh, an aluminium internal frame that pivots on a stainless-steel yoke, and an alloy telescopic ladder – so it’s built for the outback. A zip-down sky roof provides a stellar view of the night sky, full-width side windows and side vents provide plenty of airflow, and a poly ripstop fly prevents condensation. Compactly packed into a PVC transit cover with D ring compression strap – the Dakota offers a simple, comfortable, and light-diffused shelter.

Darche Hi-View Roof Top Tents (Soft Shell)

Suitable for a camper trailer or wagon, the Hi-Views from Darche are roomy enough for as few as two people in the 1400 and four in the 2200, reliable for touring. Extra wide, it’s constructed from fully seam-sealed polyester/cotton ripstop canvas for durability, a 1500mm waterhead rating, and an adjustable tropical fly to mediate condensation. See the stars through the zippered window, block insects from the full-width side windows, and enjoy airflow through built-in air vents. With internal storage pockets for stashing the essentials, and a telescopic ladder for easy access – the Hi-View from Darche is ideal for that trio of tourers looking to elevate their adventures.

Both tents are available in multiple sizes, and stand out on the market as affordable all-rounders.

A tent fit to withstand the uncompromising Aussie landscape. Image: Darche

Superior Soft Top

Darche Panorama 1400 Roof Top Tent (Soft Shell)

Often considered the Rolls Royce of rooftop tents, the Panorama offers premium dreaming! Boasting a low-profile design when collapsed, it features a PU waterproofed 320gsm ripstop canvas (heavier than that used for the Hi-View), HD compressed checker-plate base board, and a PVC tonneau cover for outdoor durability. The Panorama perches proud and sturdy owing to stainless steel hinges and an aluminium frame, climbing to new heights too with an alloy telescope ladder that extends to 2.3 metres. With its impressive 1500mm waterhead rating, the twin-needle, lock-stitched seams and reinforced bar tack stitching on stress points withstand wetter conditions, while a tropical fly mediates humidity and works hand in hand with the built-in air vents for airflow. Premium in both design and features, this tent is fit to withstand the uncompromising Aussie landscape.

For a Smaller Footprint: Tubs and Trailers

23Zero Panther Roof Top Tents (Hard Shell)

Representing true on-the-road royalty, the Panther (literally) raises expectations! A lift-and-fold design enables a quick set up by sundown and pack down by dawn. Strong enough to support the bigger dreamers, a two-piece aluminium baseboard boasts a lightweight honeycomb construction, topped with a memory foam mattress and polyester quilt for plush comfort out bush. Turn it on when off the grid with LED strip lighting and USB plugs, while T-slot racks enable solar panel mounting too. Arched windows on either side deliver good ventilation and a dry interior – and swap the city lights with the outback night, thanks to a removable flysheet and stargazing roof window. Internal storage pockets keep the tackle together, and shoe pockets keep your kicks from heading up sticks! Plus, built-in elastic shock bands allow for flat packing without the bulge.

From the dual cabs and canopies to the tub racks and trailers. Image: 23Zero

23Zero Yowie ABS Roof Top Tent (Hard Shell)

This one’s for the outback slumbers. From the dual cabs and canopies to the tub racks and trailers, the Yowie is an affordable option for the more modest of the nomads! Boasting an ABS shell, its raised X-frame design allows maximum interior headroom, while the zippered head vent controls air circulation. An aluminium baseboard is sturdy but lightweight, while the memory foam mattress provides luxurious comfort. Large side windows also maintain good ventilation, with full canopy covers for the wetter weather. From bright city lights to star-speckled nights, enjoy the stargazing roof window, telescope ladder, and a clear TPU window fixed to the flysheet. Keep your boots from scooting with external shoe pockets, and keep your sleep setup stowed on the open road thanks to bulk internal room. Plus, switch on with LED strip lighting and pack down flat without the excess flap thanks to the externally fitted bungee cord.

For the Bells, Whistles, and Bulk Space

Darche Ridgeback HighRize Roof Top Tents (Hard Shell)

Lift your tent game – literally, with the Ridgeback HighRize! Its twin-fold design allows a large internal space for two pillows and two sleeping bags, even when packed away. Enjoy a near-panoramic view of your surroundings through 6 windows that cover all sides of your tent, meanwhile providing exceptional ventilation enhanced by a breathable memory foam mattress. Both the canvas and fly boast a 3000mm waterhead rating, while the included mattress has a water-resistant base and anti-condensation mat for complete camp comfort. Like the original Ridgeback, German-engineered Stabilus struts make for effortless pack-up and pack-down, while a removable fly provides coverage through rain or shine. Light up date night with two integrated LED light strips – and good things come (and go) in threes, like the included ladder which can be mounted from any of the three entry points.

In the HighRize, enjoy a near-panoramic view of your surroundings through 6 windows that cover all sides of your tent. Image: Darche

For Adventurers Who Travel Light

Inspired Overland Lightweight Rooftop Tents | Standard, XL, and Carbon Fibre

From roadside retreats to off-track overnighters, the Lightweight Rooftop Tent range by Inspired Overland elevates every outdoor adventure!

The Standard Lightweight Rooftop Tent boasts a sleek yet rugged design with gas strut-assisted PVC softshell opening for swift setup and pack-down. Its tough 2000D waterproof Polyester Oxford fabric is UV-protected, heat-sealed, and double-stitched for ultimate strength in harsh Aussie conditions. Three exterior entry points and high-density tulle windows ensure easy access and superior ventilation, while the included 3.8cm foam mattress and anti-condensation pad deliver elevated comfort. Multiple storage pockets keep your gear organized, and the included telescopic ladder with an aluminium mounting base offers versatile roof rail compatibility.

The Lightweight Rooftop Tent range by Inspired Overland elevates every outdoor adventure!

For more spacious escapes, the XL Lightweight Rooftop Tent delivers all the Standard’s premium features with expanded dimensions for greater comfort. The same gas strut-assisted mechanism and robust 2000D Polyester Oxford fabric maintain quick setup and exceptional durability, while its 1.5-inch foam mattress offers plush support. Large built-in storage pockets and multiple entry points ensure both convenience and organization beyond the big smoke, making it perfect for longer outdoor adventures.

The roof top tent range from Inspired Overland combines slender builds with outdoor durability for truly elevated camping experiences!

For the ultimate lightweight luxury, the Carbon Fibre Lightweight Rooftop Tent blends innovation with exceptional strength. Its premium hardshell carbon fibre lid combined with a carbon fibre and aluminium frame delivers maximum durability at minimum weight. Unique heating and cooling ducts facilitate diesel heaters and air-conditioners for all-season comfort, while the included self-inflating air mattress takes sleep quality to new heights. Removable shoe bags in the large storage pockets and T-slot mounting base with exterior slots for accessories ensure this top-tier tent is as practical as it is impressive.

The Inspired Overland Lightweight Rooftop Tent range combines slender builds with outdoor durability for truly elevated camping experiences!

Boasting a sleek but rugged design.

For Easy Setups

23Zero Saber Hard Shell Roof Top Tent (Hard Shell)

The robust and reliable Saber Hard Shell from 23Zero meets the modern demands of lifestyle touring. Open the latch and the gas strut-assisted aluminium hull to reveal the outer tent, while the interior features a rebound foam mattress, padded anti-condensation mat, and space to leave your sleeping gear inside when collapsed. Keep the essentials close by in the two built-in storage pockets, or six removable pockets including a media device viewing sleeve and drink holders. Constructed from LST-coated canvas, this treatment diffuses sunlight and prevents invasive UV rays. Compatible with the separately available 270-degree or side awning too, create sufficient shade or shelter around your vehicle.

Darche Ridgeback Roof Top Tent (Hard Shell)

Boasting a leading-class interior, the Ridgeback is constructed from aluminium and premium quality polycotton canvas, while self-repairing coil zips and reinforced stitching has it as lightweight as it is heavy-duty. Sleek and unique, its profile turns heads while its compact design minimizes wind drag. Breathe easy with a zippered sky window, built-in air vents, and three full-width doors for ventilation, while a memory foam mattress, removable cover, water-resistant base, and anti-condensation mat have this a true rooftop hotel room. From downpour to drought, a 3000mm water rating, taped seams, and rubber weather seals reduce infiltration of heat, wind, and moisture. Shield from severe UV with UV50+ protection, and handle humidity with the removable fly. A simple flick of the latches guarantees an efficient one-person setup, while German-engineered gas struts allow effortless pack down.

Both tents can be enhanced with roof rails, where the Saber features three T-slotted roof bars to fix your paddleboard, bike, or recovery tracks, and the Ridgeback is compatible with separately available roof-rail accessory kits to elevate every road trip.

The Saber meets the modern demands of lifestyle touring. Image: 23Zero

Don’t sleep on these – sleep IN them! From a warranty perspective, we can only speak to the brands we are familiar with and our team report very few problems across our range. Some people do find installing roof top tents a little tricky, but it’s nothing that can’t be overcome and just part of the territory when mounting them. Once it’s on the car, you’re ready to roll – anywhere, anytime!

Which roof top tent is best for you? Get in touch if you need more help.

The post How to Choose the Best Roof Top Tent for You appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Beyond the books, school bags, and lunch boxes, there’s the outdoor classroom offering lessons to be learned in self-discovery, life skills, and leadership – and with the right kit comes the confidence to kick butt! If you’re reading this, chances are your child is embarking on a school, Cadets, Scouts, or Guides hiking trip – maybe even starting their bronze Duke of Edinburgh award! Your task? Getting the gear to kit them out!

We know the conundrum: you want the gear to be functional, warm, and comfortable… but you’re not confident that they’re ever going to use it again. In this blog, we’ve unpacked the ultimate checklist for your child’s upcoming outdoor camp or expedition, having rustled up some advice on the most important and expensive items you’ll need (sleeping bags, mats, packs, and shoes), as well as other affordable, middle-of-the-range, and premium gear for beginner hikers.

Put the pencils down, lace up, and let’s hit the track!

In this guide, we’ve rustled up some advice on the most important and expensive items you’ll need. Image: Caribee

Sleeping Bag

Consider Packed Size, Weight, and Warmth

A sleeping bag is one of the most critical pieces of gear, as it’s the difference between a comfortable sleep and a cold, sleepless night. Packed size, weight, and warmth are the most important considerations here.

Avoid Bags Designed for General Camping

These are heavier and have a bulkier packed size, so not suitable for carrying in a rucksack. Instead, look for sleeping bags that are between 1-1.5kg if possible, with a suitable packed size. For more information on how to choose lightweight sleeping bags for hiking, check out this article here.

Pick a bag that’s as warm, light, and compact as possible for your budget. Image: Alamy

Bag Rating

If you’re unsure about the temperature rating, we recommend choosing a bag with a comfort rating (not a ‘lower limit’ or ‘extreme’ rating) that is 5 to 10 degrees lower than the average temperature it will be used in.

Synthetic for Affordability, Down for Longevity

Synthetic sleeping bags are popular with campers and hikers alike, as they’re inexpensive, faster-drying, and will still provide some insulation when damp (compared to down).

A down-filled sleeping bag will offer more warmth for weight than a synthetic bag. When taken care of, a quality down bag can last for years – so it is a good investment if it’s going to be used over and over again.

A sleeping bag is the difference between a comfortable sleep and a cold, sleepless night. Image: Goal Zero

Accessorise for Extra Warmth

A thermal sleeping bag liner is a lightweight way to increase the warmth of a bag by a few degrees and is extra insurance should the temperatures drop unexpectedly.

An emergency or space blanket comes standard with most first aid kits, so that can always be used to add insulation under a sleeping mat, or on top of a sleeping bag for extra warmth in a pinch.

We’ve also got some extra tips on how to make a sleeping bag warmer, which might be handy to read here.

We Recommend:

Sea to Summit Trek Sleeping Bags

A step up in durability and price is the Trek range from Sea to Summit – newly improved and available in three different sizes: the Trek -1C, Trek -9C, and the Trek -18C. This bag is a top-quality all-rounder, suitable for hiking, travel, and camping.

Closed-cell foam mats offer limited comfort, but are super lightweight and don’t cost a lot. Image: Wilderness Escape Outdoor Adventures

Sleeping Mat

The Same Goes…

For a more technical trip where weight, warmth and packed size are again very important considerations – a bulky and heavy mat will be uncomfortable to carry.

Air-filled mats are generally the most compact, lightweight and compressible options for lightweight adventures. In cold conditions, however, air beds do not offer adequate insulation – so you will need to choose one that does.

Self-inflating mats have open cell foam which has cores or holes cut out so they can be compressed down, which are a bit more luxurious but are slightly heavier than air-filled mats.

The third option is closed cell foam mats which are dense rolls of foam that can’t be compressed. These offer limited comfort, but are super lightweight and don’t cost a lot.

We Recommend:

Sea to Summit Ultralight Insulated Sleeping Mat

A go-to option here would be the Ultralight Insulated Sleeping Mat from Sea to Summit, as this packs down to 23L x 11W x 11H cm, is 5cm thick (providing decent padding) and has an R-value of 3.3 to insulate against the cold from the ground.

It represents great value for money, as it’s insulated, compact, and offers enough thickness even for side sleepers to be comfortable. Plus, it’s consistently a top seller with great reviews, and we’ve had it in our range for years.

Some schools won’t allow air-filled or self-inflating mats, as both of these styles can be punctured. If that’s the case, a closed-cell foam mat is the only sleeping mat option. This can also be used under another mat in colder conditions for extra insulation, and for other activities such as yoga or gym – so it won’t gather dust in the shed after the trip!

If you can fit all your gear in a smaller pack, you’re on the right track! Image: Sea to Summit

Packs

The Right Style and the Right Fit

Look for a long, thin top-loading pack, not a zippered travel pack. Harness fit is the most important factor, so have your pack fitted in person if you can.

The hip belt must be snug as it carries 60-70% of the weight, and the shoulder straps need to be rounded over the top of the shoulders. A pack should also have an internal frame that distributes weight onto the hip belt.

Need help? Check out some of our best-selling daypacks for this year.

A Big Pack is a Heavy Pack

A 65L size rucksack should provide plenty of space to carry a sleeping mat, sleeping bag, clothing, first-aid kit, and basic kitchen gear. If you can fit all your gear in a smaller pack, you’re on the right track (see what we did there?). However, if you need much bigger than 65L, you may need to reconsider the gear you are packing.

Check out this blog for more on how to pack a rucksack.

We’ve got a selection of gear options for all budgets. Image by Snowy Mountains Grammar School

Accessories Aren’t Always Necessary

A detachable day pack or removable rain cover are handy, but these features add weight.

We Recommend:

Caribee Cadet 65L Auscam Rucksack

The Caribee Cadet 65L Auscam Rucksack is the ideal choice if you’re looking for a basic design that fulfills the standard requirements. It features a padded back and hip belt, an aluminium frame for distributing weight, and molle webbing attachment points for carrying gear externally.

Deuter Aircontact Rucksack

The Deuter Aircontact range offers premium comfort and durability out of all the packs in our range, available in a variety of sizes with slimline fit options too.

The Aircontact back system provides padding and ventilation, and you can get achieve your ideal fit with the pivoting help belt. An adaptable shoulder harness also provides maximum comfort when carrying gear. This is the best option for those who are confident it will get used repeatedly in the future.

For more on the Deuter hiking pack range, tune into Ben and Lauren’s interview on the Snowys Camping Show podcast with Manfred from TMO Sports:

Hiking shoes and trail runners are appropriate for day hikes, but higher-cut hiking boots are better for multi-day expeditions. Image: Keen

Footwear

Fit Your Footwear (If Possible)

Sneakers are not going to be heavy-duty enough for hiking. In general, hiking shoes and trail runners are appropriate for day hikes with a daypack. For a multi-day expedition with a heavier rucksack, sturdier and higher-cut trekking boots are required.

If you can, have your child’s hiking boots properly fitted. Take the time in-store for your child to try them on with appropriate socks, walk around the store if possible, and up/down stairs etc. Pay attention to slippage and rub spots.

Allow Wiggle Room for Toes!

There should be space for toes to wiggle and enough volume in the shoe to adjust for feet swelling in warm weather. The heel should not slip up and down, and the sides of the shoe should be snug against the foot without crushing toes, to avoid sideways slipping.

Break in the Boots

Allow plenty of time for the shoes or boots to be broken in before the trip, to ensure they’re comfortable. For more information on how to choose footwear, have a read of our hiking shoes and boots guide here.

Allow plenty of time for the shoes or boots to be broken in before the trip. Image by Limavady Grammar School

Tents

A basic, 3-man dome is suitable, at approx. 3-4 kg. For a hiking-specific expedition, aim for a 1-2P tent weighing no more than 2kg. For more information, read up on our top 10 best-selling hiking tents for this year.

Stoves

The brand Trangia is safe to use, and includes pots and pans. For hiking, gas stoves are light, simple, and compact, but pots and pans are extra weight. For more information, read up on our top 10 best selling hiking stoves for this year.

Pots and Pans

Alloy is light, but not the safest to eat from. Hard anodised is better, yet expensive. Stainless steel is a good balance. For hiking, you can probably manage with a bowl and cup that you can both cook in and eat out of, to save space. The Sea to Summit X-Pots are collapsible and lightweight, as are their new Frontier range:

Cutlery

Again, consider weight. You probably only need a fork and spoon, depending on what is being cooked. The Sea to Summit Titanium Cutlery 3-Piece Set is a fantastic lightweight but durable option, as well as their new Passage, Frontier, and Detour crockery and cutlery range.

Rain Coat

Look for a basic, seam-sealed jacket that allows a few layers to be worn underneath.

Thermals

Not cotton! Look for polyester, polypropylene or merino wool.

Extra Set of Warm Clothing

As with other camp clothing, look for merino wool or synthetic fabrics. For hiking, lightweight is best. Lots of layers are the most versatile way to achieve adequate warmth.

Toiletries

Just the basics, don’t go overboard: toothbrush, toothpaste and deodorant. For laundry, the Scrubba Washbag is the ultimate portable washing machine for getting rid of off-grid grime! For hiking, keep the weight down: simply a toothbrush and small tube of toothpaste is more than enough.

Check out our guide to doing laundry in the outdoors!

The Scrubba Washbag is the ultimate portable washing machine for getting rid of off-grid grime! Image: Scrubba

Don’t go overboard with toiletries, you just need the basics. Image: Sea to Summit

Sun and Insect Protection

Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, and insect repellent. For hiking, look for small sunscreen containers, or transfer some from a large container into a smaller one to save weight.

Water

A 1-litre water bottle is versatile – just make sure they don’t leak. For hiking, consider a water bladder that fits into the pack. This allows for easy efficient drinking whilst hiking.

A 1-litre water bottle is versatile. Image: Nalgene

First Aid and Medication

A basic kit with adhesive plasters, cleaning swabs, resuscitation mask. An elastic bandage is also very useful. For hiking, keep weight and size in mind – only take what you will need. You should be able to make a kit that fits into one hand. For how to manage spider and snake bites, check out this blog – or tune into Ben and Lauren on the Snowys Camping Show:

Camera

A basic, lightweight digital camera will capture all the memories. For hiking, just focus on what’s compact and light.

Torch

Hand-held torches or a head-torch. Head-torches are lightweight and versatile, keeping your hands free for camp duties.

Need us to shed more light? Check out this year’s top selling headlamps for camping and hiking.

A basic, lightweight digital camera will capture all the memories. Image: Sea to Summit

What do you remember most vividly about your first hiking trip?

The post The Ultimate School Camp Checklist appeared first on Snowys Blog.

That doesn’t have to mean your getaway is cancelled; why not take your holiday to the backyard?

At the end of the day, kids often love the experience more than the location, so get them out and about in a different way. Backyard camping requires only a portion of the organisation and planning that a trip away from home does – plus, there are no travel times!

The best part about backyard camping? No long car rides! Image: Nikki Fotheringham

Setting Up Your Shelter

Any tent will do. Let’s face it, if things go pear-shaped you can just go inside!

If you don’t already have a tent, pick one up at an affordable price; it will more than suffice for backyard campouts (we recommend the Tasman series by OZtrail). Or, set up a full campsite with a family tent, mats, sleeping bags – plus all the extras like a table, chairs, and a camp kitchen. You’ll still achieve the outdoor experience, and it’s easy to throw in the odd luxury from the house if you like too. For this year’s top-selling sleeping bags – including for kids – check out this blog.

Backyard camping also means you don’t have to be a minimalist, given there’s no need to squeeze everything into the boot of your car! Setting up and packing down your campsite is as easy as transporting your gear from inside your shed and house to your own outdoor space.

For a cosy atmosphere too, fill your tent with all the creature comforts you usually wouldn’t bother dragging out to the campsite. This could include plush cushions, pillows, doonas, and blankets.

Have Fun with Your Setup!

Get creative with your backyard setup to really ‘transport’ everyone to a different place. With some help from the kids, create a fort using tarps, blankets, sheets, and rope, and bring in the furniture from the playroom to turn it into a fun space to hang out in.

Pick a theme, or raid your shed for all those seasonal decorations! Have fun with it – remember, you’re on holiday!

Create a nice, mellow vibe in your yard. Image: Lillie Farrow

Atmospheric Lighting and Music

Now is the perfect time to use your solar lanterns, fairy lights, or other string lighting to add a warm glow to your backyard. Grab your speaker to play some tunes or, if you really want to escape, the sounds of nature will do the trick too!

Check out our best-selling camping lights and lanterns here!

Try Camp Cooking at Home

If it’s safe and considerate to do so, stoke up a campfire in your backyard or use a cooker like the Ozpig to refine your camp cooking skills in the backyard. Or, for more on campfire cooking gear, check out Episode 103 of The Snowys Camping Show:

Damper is an easy recipe to master. It can be made to just about any savoury or sweet variation, and we’re yet to meet a kid who doesn’t like hot damper soaked in butter or golden syrup! Don’t forget to brew some hot chocolate and toast marshmallows on the fire too.

Toast some marshmallows at home in a firepit. Image: Suburble

You could also try your hand at smoking food. This adds a whole new flavour to the food you already love, but may be better suited to the more mature palates in the family.

For an easy and fun backyard dinner, try Cam’s Home-Made Baked Beans with Chorizo, as seen on our YouTube channel Camp Cooking with Cam. For more recipes, see here.

Stay Outside and Disconnect

Depending on how strict you want to be, maybe set a rule that inside the house is out of bounds once the camp out starts!

Plus, if you truly want to get back to nature and move the teens away from the screens, you could even temporarily change the Wi-Fi password. Or, keep the phones in the house so that everyone can disconnect and spend time together, as you would when camping.

Relax and unwind without modern technology. Image: Ellie DeLano

Stargaze

This is a great opportunity to see what you can spot in the skies from your house at night. If you already have one, grab your telescope (or some binoculars), download a free map of the sky, and have some fun examining the heavens and all the constellations you can see.

Admire the constellations from your yard. Image: Gary Seronik

Discover Your Own Backyard

Create a mystery to solve or a treasure hunt for your kids utilising the space at the front of the house, around the sides, and in the backyard. Draw out a map, give them a compass, and even have prizes at the end to keep them occupied and entertained. Maybe the winner gets to pick the movie for the night!

Organise outdoor activities for the kids. Image: Amanda Morin

Have a Movie Night!

Relaxing in your own outdoor movie theatre is a real treat for the whole family, especially if you have a home projector setup. If not, you could cheat by bringing the TV out onto your patio. Either way, stream a classic film while you unwind and enjoy the serenity of your own backyard.

Watching a movie is a great way to unwind. Image: Stacey Leasca

Enjoy What You Have

In times of crisis or when things don’t go to plan, all you can do is make the most of what you have and enjoy time with your loved ones. There’s no need for a fancy, over-engineered setup – what matters is the much needed downtime with your family.

For tips on camping with kids beyond the backyard, check out Episode 97 of The Snowys Camping Show. Happy camping, everyone!

Have you ever gone camping in your backyard? Let us know in the comments.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Fun Backyard Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this blog, we prepare the fire pit from scratch, outlining how to light a campfire efficiently, cost-effectively, and even using wet wood.

Collect the kindling, gather the tinder, strike a match – and read on

Preparation Prevents Poor… Campfires?

Now, you could get all extreme by rubbing two sticks together, lighting a ball of wispy grass in your hand, and thumping your chest in a Bear Grylls-esque display of survival prowess.

Or, if you take the time preparing the right materials – with a few simple cheats, one match should be all you need to get a fire started safely. Sorry, that rules out that jerry can of petrol!

Before You Leave Home…

Collect these items:

• Tinder: newspaper, a few small twigs, firelighters (can be store-bought or homemade).
• Ignition method: lighter/matches/flint striker.
• Wood processing items: a saw, hatchet, knife, and club.

Here we have some tinder (newspaper ) and ignition, in the form of a flint striker, and a hatchet for splitting logs. 

Collect Enough Wood to Last 30 Minutes

At least! It makes for sloppy spectating watching someone who’s finally got their first bit of flame in damp timber, running around trying to find some more material to keep it going. Collect all the timber you think I’ll need for the majority of the time; if there’s any extra, leave it as a gift for the next person!

Be Environmentally Conscious

Don’t collect any standing timber, live or dead, as both are habitat for animals.

Organise the Timber

Do so into size stacks, based on categories of thickness – starting with the finest twigs, working up to finger-width, then arm width. It’s a good idea to have them in lengths that will make for easy use (say, half a meter). Use your wood processing tools to assist with this.

Collect Your Tinder

A crucial part of the process; it should be dry, fine, and easily take a flame, This is where having some with you already is handy. Otherwise, look for dry grass underneath tussocks, dry leaves, or the inside of bark (beware of Huntsman spiders with that last one!).

Light Your Campfire!

This is the part where it all comes together. It’s all about escalating the size of fuel as required, and utilising the wood stacks you made earlier.

Start by lighting your tinder (either natural, newspaper, twigs, or firelighters you brought from home), with some small twigs loosely placed on top. Once alight, progressively lay larger sticks just before the previous stage is burning. This gives it time to dry and warm up.

It’s recommended positioning the wood in the typical tepee shape, to give good aeration and expose most of it to the flame. Once a base of coals has built up, you can rest easy.

A nice little campfire, well on its way. Image: Kooikkari. 

Starting a Fire in Wet Weather

Starting a fire in wet conditions can be an absolute nightmare, and sometimes it doesn’t even happen. That said, follow these steps and you’ll be fostering a flame in no time.

• Use wood from the inside of logs; this is where it’s the most dry
• Lots of kindling is key!
• Use large logs or rocks to build a platform to hold your fire off of wet ground
• Lay the wood beside your fire, to promote drying as you go
• Bring extra materials

1. Collect Both Small Twigs and Larger Logs

Gather a good heap of wood, ranging from small twigs to larger logs. Finding plenty of dead twigs and small branches is key. These are best snapped off dead fallen trees, or even dead standing trees. You are looking for branches that make that loud cracking sound when snapped (this means they are definitely dead).

Then, collect larger pieces of wood and logs, avoiding anything that has been on the ground for too long – these will be the most sodden, and may also be hiding creepy crawlies underneath!

2. Create Some Dry Kindling

Split a large log into quarters using an axe or hatchet. The inside of larger logs will be the driest wood you can find. Then, using a hatchet or knife, shave the dry wood and create some kindling. Snap all the small twigs and place them in a heap next to where the fire is to be made.

3. Build a Platform

Use large logs or even rocks to build yourself a platform that will keep your fire off the wet ground. This will provide it with airflow, and eventually burn the wood underneath (if you choose to use logs).

4. Build Your Fire

Build your fire into a teepee shape using small twigs and branches, placing the kindling underneath. This also allows for good airflow, dries more wood while burning, and helps your fire light faster. You could also lay one large log down and lean the rest against it, lighting your fire underneath. This will both support your fire and dry large wood quickly.

5. Light Your Kindling

You are now ready to light your kindling!

If you have any paper, cloth, or other material to help ignite your fire, place it in with your kindling. Use a lighter or matches to light the dry kindling or paper. You may need to gently blow on the embers to help the fire along. Once the kindling is lit, it will burn and start to dry and catch onto the small twigs you have placed on top.

Additional materials you could add to get your fire going are:

• Flavoured corn chips
• Dry spaghetti
• Steel wool
• Cloth or clothing
• Paper or toilet paper
• Or, best of all, some sort of fuel-based fire-lighters. These can be purchased from most camping shops.

6. Add Wood Carefully

You now have yourself a small fire. Continue to add wood, working up by size. It’s important to keep adding plenty of wood to the fire to help it dry quickly and keep alight – remembering not to overload or smother it. Lay the rest of your wood close to the fire, allowing it to dry before burning. Continue to do this throughout the evening, and your fire will stay warm and bright.

This method will help you to light a fire. It may not be easy, but it will work!

7. Don’t Forget to Extinguish It!

As important as it is to light your fire, it is as equally important to put it out before departing the site. You can do this by extinguishing it with water, or, as a last resort, burying it with dirt or sand. The latter is not a preferred method, as the next group of people to come along may burn themselves. To prevent this and avoid injury, it should be clearly marked.

Some Final Words of Campfire Wisdom

• Beware of dry leaves: too many will smother a small flame.
• It’s a good idea to not use all the timber from each stack the first time, in case it does not work.
• With damp timber, you’ll need more ‘small’ fuel to get the ‘bigger’ fuel to dry and catch alight. Plan for this accordingly when creating your size stacks.

From here, the fire can help with a multitude of tasks with different arrangements, such as for cooking, efficiency, warmth, or longevity. Now you’ve got the basics down pat – sit back and enjoy the warmth of your fire!

Got some tips of your own for any campfire novices out there? Let us know down below. 

The post Beginner’s Guide to Starting a Campfire appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So, the curiosity over what on earth this rating means led you to the internet – and voilà! You’ve landed on this article where we’re going to explain it all for you!

What is a Waterhead Rating?

In simple terms, ‘waterhead’ or ‘hydrostatic head’ is a measure of how waterproof the tent is. To be more precise: a measure of how much water pressure the actual tent fabric can withhold, before it starts to seep through.

Keep in mind that this only refers to the ability of the fabric to resist the penetration of water; it has nothing to do with the quality or durability of the fabric, or whether or not the seams are protected from water penetration. It also does not take tent design into consideration.

The waterhead rating and season rating of a tent should be considered hand in hand. A two-season tent is not designed for heavy rainfall, so it won’t have a high waterhead rating. Three- to four-season tents, on the other hand, are used in a range of weather from warm, sunny climates to cold and wet or tropical conditions. The latter need to boast higher waterproof properties.

Ratings can be a little mystifying and often leave you wondering: just how waterproof is my tent? Photo: MSRGear

How is Waterhead Rating Measured on a Tent?

The fabrics are lab-tested, and there are two types of testing methods. The first uses a device called a Suter Tester, the other involves columns filled with water that bear pressure down on the fabric. Both tests are similar.

The Suter Tester applies pressure to a piece of fabric that’s clamped down into the machine. Once water starts to penetrate the fabric, a psi measurement is taken which can then be translated to mm as the waterhead rating.

The ‘cylinder test’ involves securing a section of the fabric to the bottom of a column. The column is then filled with water, and once the water starts to penetrate the fabric, the height of the water is measured in mm. This provides the waterhead rating of the fabric.

It is important to note that these tests are in a controlled environment, and don’t take into consideration real world forces such as wind-driven rain, the effect of gravity on rain, the pressure applied by an individual standing on the fabric, or – as previously mentioned – the manufacturing considerations, such as design and seam-sealing.

A fabric’s waterproof rating is measured in mm, which represents the pressure at which water is able to press through the fabric. Photo: MSR Summit Register

Is a Higher Waterproof Rating Better?

No. Excessive waterproof coatings applied to increase the waterhead rating result in stiffer and heavier fabrics, with lessened tear-strength. Furthermore, a poorly applied coating – although providing a higher rating – can delaminate or crack. These considerations are not factored into the tests mentioned above.

Keep in mind ratings are tested in a controlled environment, so Mother Nature isn’t in full force. Photo: MSRGear

What is DWR treatment?

DWR, or Durable Water Repellant treatment, doesn’t affect the waterhead rating of a fabric. It is a surface treatment that helps shed water from the fabric (a bit like wax for your car). DWR is a handy feature, generally found on good quality tents as it prevents the fabric from ‘wetting out’ or saturating.

Tent Quality and Build Makes a Difference

Seams, zippers, tabs… wherever stitching exists are points of water entry. Good quality tents will have all seams sealed, or at least provide sealant so it can be done post purchase to prevent water penetrating the stitching holes (created during manufacture). Well-designed tents will also protect zippers, with adequately sloped walls to shed water.

High-quality tents have sealed seams which assist with keeping your tent leak free. Photo: Zempire

What you really want is a waterhead rating guide… right?

0 – 1000mm Waterhead = Water Resistant

This is 2-season tent country. The fabrics in this range will withstand light rain for short periods.

1000 – 1500mm Waterhead = Waterproof

This is the lightweight hiking tent range, and is adequate for lightweight 3-season hiking or compact camping tents.

The general consensus is that 1000mm rating is waterproof, but tent fabrics at the lower end of this range are usually made with a focus on lightweight performance rather than longevity.

1500mm is generally accepted as a good standard for hiking tents, whilst – with proper storage and care – providing a longer usable lifetime.

For 3-4 season camping you want a waterhead rating greater than 1500mm

1500 – 5000mm Waterhead = Very Waterproof

Many family tents come with ratings in this range, but would rarely require it to be as high as this upper limit. It is more of a 4-season requirement, where you may be camped out in wet weather for an extended time.

A 1500mm rating should keep you dry in a rainstorm with 120kph winds, but if you’re camped out in a large family tent in these kinds of conditions a waterhead rating will be the least of your concerns.

The main benefit of tents with a rating in this range is that they are more likely to be better quality fabrics, and will extend the usable lifetime of the tent.

5000mm+ Waterhead = Highly Waterproof

Unless you’re camping for extended periods during a monsoon, you won’t need your tent fly to have a waterhead rating this high.

Tents utilising fabrics with ratings this high are likely to be high quality and made for the purpose of weather protection in extreme conditions.

You generally won’t see waterhead ratings for tents above 10,000mm, as the chemicals in the coating can weaken the fibres which decreases fabric strength.

Tent floors are usually rated higher than the fly. Pictured is the PVC coated poly oxford floor of the Instant Up Gold Tents from Coleman. Photo: Coleman

What About the Rating for a Tent Floor?

The jury is out on this one, and the ratings can vary greatly. A tent floor needs to have a higher rating than the fly on account of the fact that the pressure we humans place on the floor of a tent is far higher than the pressure of rain hitting the fly. A quick look at Wikipedia indicates that an average human male exerts 6psi or about 6000mm of pressure or ground force when standing still. Put all this pressure on one knee and the force is much higher in one spot, lay down and the pressure is far less over a larger area.

For this reason, hiking tents ideally have a 6000mm to 10,000 mm waterhead rating, but many lightweight tents are now coming out with much lower waterheads than this in favour of less weight. It’s all a compromise.

Family tents often have a polyethylene (tarpaulin) or PVC floor, which generally don’t have a waterhead rating. This is because they form a completely waterproof and hard-wearing barrier.

Some Final Advice on Waterhead Ratings

To summarise, and help you choose your new tent – a general rule is that a good quality tent with a 1500–3000mm waterhead rating on the tent fly, along with a 6000mm+ rating on the floor (or one made from durable polyethylene or PVC), is going to keep you sheltered and dry in all but the absolute worst of conditions.

So, how does your tent hold up in adverse weather conditions? 

The post Tent Waterhead Ratings: Explained appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The dates for Fire Danger Season change year to year depending on fuel loads, short-term weather conditions, and the long-term climate in each area. This blog will guide you through the Campfire Season – plus, with the help of a few of our most popular blogs, you can safely enjoy all the cosy-comforts of camping in the cooler months.

Always clear the area around your campfire.

Fire Danger Season Dates

Fire restrictions during the warmer months are in place mostly around the drier states of Australia like SA, VIC, and WA. As a general rule, the dates span from November through to April, give or take a few months.

Other states don’t necessarily adopt a blanket rule around restrictions, but require permits instead. A permit ensures the relevant Emergency Services have a heads-up on why, when, where, and how the burn will take place, and imposes conditions around how it is both lit and maintained.

Follow the links most appropriate to you and your location for more details on current dates and restrictions. This information has been researched in reference to camping and campfires – backyard fires, bonfires, burn-offs, etc. carry their own restrictions. Please seek advice from your local council or authorities before you burn.

QLD

State of Queensland (Queensland Fire & Emergency Services)

• Fire season extends from July through to October, but can extend to February.
• Despite this predominant time period, bushfires can occur at any time.
• These times can vary depending on conditions of bushland, long-term climate, and short-term weather.
• The information found here from the QPWS is a great resource.

ACT

ACT Emergency Services Agency

• Fire season extends from October through to the end of March.
• Recreational fires are allowed with a permit during bushfire season, however not permitted at all during a Total Fire Ban.

NSW

NSW Rural Fire Service

• Fire season extends from October through to the end of March.
• Open fires are only allowed with a permit.

VIC

Country Fire Authority

• Fire season can extend from October through to the end of April or early May.
• Timeframes differ depending on the municipality.
• Permits may be required.

TAS

Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service

• Generally restrictions are placed depending on forecasted weather conditions and outlooks by the BOM.
• Campers need to check to current ‘alerts’ information on relevant areas to know if campfires are permitted.

SA

South Australian Country Fire Service

• Fire season extends from November through to the end of April.
• Fire season in the North East and North West Pastoral start in October and run through March.
• Specific timeframes differ depending on the district.

WA

Department of Fire & Emergency Services

• Northern WA – fire season extends from June through to October
• Southern WA – fire season extends from October through to April

NT

NT Police, Fire & Emergency Services

• Permits are required year-round in Emergency Response Areas.
• Policy in other fire districts is governed by local and seasonal conditions.
• Burning is not allowed in municipal areas (e.g. Darwin and Palmerston).

Fire Safety and Preparation for Camping

Fires can spark at a moment’s notice regardless of the season – so no matter where you are or what you’re doing, be fire-ready and fire-safe. Following some basic guidelines with common sense is both vital and potentially life-saving.

This article focuses on how we as campers can be responsible with our campfires, and how we can stay safe heading into the bush.

 

Camp Oven Cooking Temperature Guide & Techniques

The beautiful flavours and textures you get from cooking over a campfire are like no other, and even the simplest meals come alive when infused with that special camp oven flair.

In this guide, we talk you through the whole camp oven cooking process – from preparing your oven, to heating it to the best temperature. We then discuss the different cooking techniques, how to care for your oven, and a whole lot more.

 

Guide to Seasoning Your Camp Oven

Seasoning your camp oven gets it ready for non-stick cooking so that your food doesn’t taste like metal, or whatever the oven has come packed in. Seasoning also prevents rusting, so that you can use your camp oven for years, decades, or even a lifetime!

Whether your camp oven is new or needs a little TLC, this article offers a step-by-step technique that can be used on any cast iron or steel cookware – camp oven, frypan, jaffle iron, or skillet.

Image: David Laslett

 

How to Make Damper in a Camp Oven

There are loads of damper recipes online. Most of them require you to use lots of ingredients and work the dough for a few minutes.

When you work damper too much it pushes all of the air out and makes the dough dense. We have lost count of how many times we have prepared this version of damper and no matter how many times we cook this recipe it always turns out perfect – crunchy on the outside, and fluffy on the inside.

Image: Mick Viller

 

Tips for Campfire Cooking at Home

That autumn chill is starting to kick in and it’s time to retire your thongs and shorts in favour of the ugg boots and trackies. Depending on where you live, you don’t have to save campfire cooking only for when you’re sleeping in a tent. Why not bring those tastes, smells and sounds into your backyard and stay cosy while making the most of being at home.

This article talks you through some campfire options from portable pits to specialised cookers. There are also details on cookware and charcoal vs wood, plus a couple of meal ideas just to whet your appetite.

 

Cook Up a Feast this Campfire Season

Whether is a new camp oven you’re after or a jaffle iron, skillet, bedourie, or grill, this page has them all plus loads more!

We’ve got cast iron and spun steel, plus collapsible firepits and Ozpig cooker/heaters with accessories galore. We live and breathe outdoor adventures – hiking, camping, 4WDing and love sharing our campfire cooking tips. Join in on the conversation with our Snowys Camping Show podcast Facebook group for all the chitchat on Comparing Cast Iron & Spun Steel Camp Ovens. Or, if you need any help to decide what gear suits you and your campfire setup best, give us a call on 1300 914 007 or shoot us a message, service@snowys.com.au

 

Stay warm, keep safe and eat well, folks!

What adventures are you planning for this campfire season?

The post Guide to Campfire Season appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Read on for tips on how to be the best camper at the site.

Luckily, there still are some places where you can get away from it all – but a trip to many of the well-known destinations is certainly not one of them. These days, camping often means being in close proximity to others. Some basic courtesies can help make the experience a positive one. This is more so within the crowded campgrounds of the Kimberley in the dry, and those highly sought-after spots along the coast during the summer months.

So – after 40 years of camping experience and a recent three-month trip up the centre and through the Kimberley – here are some of my thoughts to help ensure a happy and safe camping trip!

Nowadays, you’ll likely be sharing with others at popular camping sites. 

Keep the music down.

I like Eric Clapton. Do you? Ah… no, you prefer the 4th Aria in the 5th movement of Handel’s second symphony. I know this because I could hear it until 11:30 pm last night.

No matter how brilliant your music collection is, the rest of the campground does not need to hear it. Handel sounds great when you are travelling along in the vehicle – but, like other things, it is best done in the privacy of your own home. If you must bring the iPod, use the headphones. Remember: in the calm of the night, if your group can hear it, so can many around you.

Music disturbs other campers and the local wildlife.

Only Use Generators During the Day

Happy hour generally starts at around 4-5pm, depending on just how happy you want to be. Just as the top flips, the cork pops, and that beautiful ‘glug’ sounds forth, a steady hum invades the brain.

Hang on, I haven’t started drinking yet. What’s that invasive noise? Before long, a symphony of internal combustion dis-harmony rings through the air…

Generators are fast becoming part of the kit for many campers. However, despite how you-beaut the technology, the sound carries – especially at night. Many campgrounds now have a generator area away from other campers. It’s there for a reason. If this isn’t feasible for you, at least ensure your generator is turned off by early evening. If batteries require charging, do it during the day when the sound is better disguised by other noises and people are more likely to be out and about. Better still, embrace the solar revolution and charge for free!

Solar power is a more considerate way to get power off the grid. 

Dispose of Waste Properly and Safely

Now – it is time to be a little indelicate, as the discussion needs to turn to wee and poo.

As camping areas become more and more crowded, ridding ourselves of what’s become of breakfast, lunch, and dinner is becoming increasingly difficult. Luckily, many National Park and commercial campgrounds now have reasonable toilet facilities. However, many don’t – nor do many of the free camps becoming more and more popular. Many campgrounds are now so popular that even digging a hole is not possible.

There’s nothing worse than discovering used toilet paper in the bush.

If digging a hole is possible, ensure paper is burned (keeping in mind fire restrictions) before back-filling. Animals are attracted to smells and will often dig up toilet holes. This results in toilet paper floating freely around the area.

Ensure children are well supervised in the toileting process. Under no circumstances should you just go behind a bush and leave used toilet paper behind. This is nothing short of revolting for those that follow! Zip-lock bags are a cheap, effective, and simple way of taking used toilet paper to be disposed of properly. For more on leaving no trace, check out this blog.

Snowys have a variety of toileting solutions, from seats with bags to portable chemical toilets. These are now cheap, clean, and easy to use. The number of dump points is increasing all the time, with a deep hole always an option. However, never empty these into septic systems, as the chemicals destroy the system. Tampons and pads are also sure to block any flushing toilet system.

For more on this, tune into Ben and Lauren’s discussion on the Snowys Camping Show:

Campfires

As happy hour rolls on and darkness closes in, another basic human urge takes hold – the need for fire. Is there anything more mesmerising and calming than the flickering of the flame and the glow of coals?

After the raucous discussions of toilet techniques, it’s time to eat and settle down for some calmer chat around the fire – with a cuppa, a warming port, or other beverage of choice.

But first: achieving this most basic of needs.

As camp spots become more popular, firewood is at a premium. Collecting any near popular spots is near impossible. To enjoy the ambience of a fire, bring your own wood or use heat beads in a small brazier. It is amazing how little wood is needed to keep a handful of people warm and enjoying that beverage of choice.

Use existing fireplaces, too. It never ceases to amaze me upon arrival to a nice spot the number of fireplaces dotted around even a fairly small area. This significantly reduces the areas to pitch a tent, or set up a table and chairs.

Personally, I choose to cook using my gas stove and leave my firewood for the ambience of the evening.

Don’t char more of the land then what you need, use an established fire pit. 

Keep the Kids in Check

I was lucky enough to go camping as a kid, and I took my own kids camping from an early age. I remember being able to run free around the bush because our group was the only one there and I wasn’t impinging on anyone.

This is now a rare privilege, with most people having to share their camping experience with others around them. Children should be going camping, but safely and with respect for other campers. This means no screaming, shouting, or running through others campsites – especially in the evening. That refers to both adults and children, actually.

Supervise the kids properly when out camping. 

Pick Up Your Rubbish

Rubbish, rubbish, everywhere – but not a bin in sight.

Like other human waste, general rubbish is a fact of life. Even though we don’t get to drive the big truck with the massive compactor, we all need to take on the role of refuse-engineer when camping.

Some campsites do have bins, but these are often emptied irregularly – especially in more remote areas. It does not take a degree in physics and meteorology to know that wind will blow rubbish out of an overflowing bin and gravity will ensure it litters the area around it.

If there is no bin, or if it is full, take it with you to dispose of it properly. Waste paper and cardboard can be kept separately and used to light the fire, if required.

If the bin is full, take your rubbish out with you. 

Camping is one of life’s greatest pleasures – and it can remain that way, even in a more crowded world. It just takes a little planning, thoughtful approach to the environment, and consideration to those around us. If we all do our bit to ensure that the beautiful areas of our country remain open to us, we will all be happy campers!

Camping is one of life’s greatest pleasures. 

What do you do to be a considerate camper? Let us know in the comments. 

The post Camping Etiquette: Being the Best Camper appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Let’s revisit the Leave No Trace principles. Image: Sputnik

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

It seems like a no-brainer, but next time you decide to head out for a spontaneous weekend away, take a few extra steps to ensure you’ve done some planning. This includes researching the place you’re visiting, in case there are special rules or requirements that you need to follow.

Always take everything you could need in an emergency. This includes:

• A PLB
• A lightweight emergency shelter
• A first aid kit, emergency blanket, and
• An extra day’s worth of food.

This way, you won’t have to resort to improvising or making decisions that have the potential to negatively impact the local environment (such as building a makeshift shelter or lighting a campfire in a restricted area).

Sand is considered a suitable surface to pitch your tent on. Photo: Black Wolf

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

Travelling and camping on resistant, long-lasting surfaces is an important one. If you’re camping in an area that has designated campsites or platforms, make sure you use those. When hiking or exploring, always walk along the designated tracks to keep activity to one area.

According to Leave No Trace Australia, soft plants, muddy sites, and fragile soil layers are non-durable surfaces and should be avoided. Instead, rock outcrops, sand, gravel, dry grasses, snow, and tent platforms are considered durable to travel across and camp on.

Only use biodegradable soap and strain and scatter dishwater when you’re done with it. Photo: Sea to Summit

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

Everything you bring with you must be taken out. Don’t burn or bury rubbish, as this will still attract animals and put them at risk – not to mention the fumes a fire will emit, and the greater risk of bushfires that will create. Take all your rubbish and waste out with you in plastic or leak-proof trash bags. Alternatively, use a spare wheel bin bag – this will keep native wildlife out of your rubbish as well as the stink out of your car.

Ensure that you dispose of human waste properly too. If you’re using a portable camp toilet, only rid yourself of waste at a designated waste dump point. Otherwise, pack a trowel with you for bathroom visits. To go to the toilet in the bush responsibly, dig a hole away roughly 20cm deep away from water sources, campsites, and trails – then cover and disguise properly. You shouldn’t bury toilet paper, so take it with you in a Ziploc bag until you can dispose of it properly.

Hot water works really well for washing dishes – but if you must use detergent or soap, only choose the biodegradable kind. After you’ve finished washing your dishes, strain the water to catch food scraps and scatter it at least 50m from water sources.

If you see rubbish when you’re out and about, be a good citizen and take it with you. It’s not nice to clean up after others, but it’s better than leaving it for an animal to find.

Pack it in, pack it out – simple! Photo: Sea to Summit. 

4. Leave What You Find

Despite that last line…

When you’re out exploring or hiking a trail, there are so many incredible things to discover along the way. While it can be tempting to pick up a perfectly shaped pebble, a feather from a rare bird, or a wildflower in bloom – if you remove it from its environment, it robs the next person of the experience of discovering it too. If you’re going to be travelling across an area where you know there is a site of cultural or spiritual significance, it is still possible to absorb it all without touching or interfering in any way.

Another example of leaving what you find is cleaning your boots and tyres thoroughly. This avoids introducing anything new into a fragile environment.

There are so many incredible things to discover – just make sure you leave them be. Photo: Eve Woods. 

5. Minimise Campfire Impacts

Campfires are a predominant aspect of camping. They add warmth, atmosphere, and a means of cooking delicious meals. However, they pose a risk for the habitats of local wildlife, char and damage the landscape, and – of course – can greater the chance of bushfires.

While a camping stove and lantern don’t necessarily provide the same atmosphere of a campfire, they’ll help in leaving as little impact as possible. Only light a fire in a permitted area and, if you do so, use an established fire ring or pit. By doing so, you’re keeping the damage to the areas that are arranged for that purpose.

In regards to fuel for your fire, use eco-friendly timber options such as compacted wood briquettes to prevent depleting and destroying native habitat. For more on campfire etiquette, head here.

Keep the impact from your campfire to a minimum. Photo: Darche

6. Respect Wildlife

If you happen to spot native animals out in the wild, it can be quite special to observe them. That said, keep a respectful distance so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours, or frighten them from their own habitat.

It is essential to keep your food secure and not intentionally feed local animals. Foraging for and eating ‘human’ food can be damaging to both the health and behaviour of native species. This circles back to an earlier-mentioned principle: ensuring you leave everything as you find it. Take all rubbish and food with you to both limit its risk to animals and to avoid an unsightly mess!

If you’re keen to observe the animals, bring a pair of binoculars to watch from a distance without disturbing their normal way of life.

While it is exciting to spot an animal in the wild, keep a respectful distance. Photo: Coleman

7. Be Considerate of Your Hosts and Other Visitors

Whilst we all want to feel a sense of freedom and escape when we head outdoors, we’ll always be sharing our space with other people and animals on our travels. With this in mind, here are some things to think about to remain considerate.

• If you bring your pets along, keep their behaviour under control so they don’t disturb others. This includes averting them from local wildlife, and preventing them from foraging and digging.
• Consider how bright lighting at night may affect someone else’s experience – not to mention how it disturbs the nocturnal animals pre-existing in the area.
• Generators can make a lot of noise, so try not to run them at night or in the early hours of the morning. The same goes for loud music; this will keep others from sleeping or enjoying their night.

Keep a respectful distance from wildlife so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours (shouldn’t be hard to do when it comes to snakes!). Image: Sputnik

So, there you have it!

The 7 Leave No Trace principles. We all want to continue camping, hiking, and exploring what this great country has to offer for many years to come. A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in as pristine condition as possible.

Happy adventuring, everyone!

A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in pristine condition. Image: Sputnik

What else do you do to ensure that you’re minimising your impact on your outdoor adventures? Let us know in the comments. 

The post The 7 Leave No Trace Principles appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Just as there is more than one way to cook an egg, there is more than one way to have a bush shower. From a quick and simple rinse for the sake of maintaining hygiene, to an invigorating wash – warm water against your skin counteracting the cool, crisp air while listening to sounds of wildlife surrounding your campsite is an experience you just don’t get at home!

So – how do you set up a portable camping shower, and what do you need to do so? To start you off on the right track, we’ve established three different setup categories to meet everyone’s requirements.

Feel free to jump ahead to your preferred setup:

• The Basic: ‘Weight is important, and I just need to maintain hygiene.’
• The Affordable: ‘As long as I can have a warm shower, I’m happy.’
• The Luxurious: ‘I don’t care what it costs, I will not go without a steaming hot shower!’

From basic to luxury, there are a few showering options when off the grid. Image: Sea to Summit

The Basic

Keeping Clean at the Minimum Weight

For hiking and trekking adventures, the weight of your gear is important – but so is hygiene. If every gram counts on your next adventure, try the below wash options.

1. The Waterless Wash

This is as simple as it gets, and also a good option for chilly nights when you don’t want to get cold and wet. All you need is some baby wipes and sanitising gel. Use the baby wipes to clean your body, ensuring you reach all the stinky parts, and the hand sanitiser on your… well, hands.

It’s a good idea to use wipes that are biodegradable, like those from Sea to Summit.

Wilderness Wipes are the simplest way to shower outdoors. Image: Sea to Summit

2. Shower in a Cup

This is something an old friend of mine learned from his Army Reserve days, used when water was is in short supply on long treks. The idea is that you can ration your shower to one cup of water, or about 250mL.

Fill your cup, then grab a lightweight towel and some biodegradable soap. Scrub away until your water ration runs out.

It goes without saying that this is by no means a luxurious shower.

Showering in a cup isn’t glamorous, but it works when water supplies are low. Image: Sea to Summit

3. Improvised Wash Basin

This is my preferred washing method on long hikes, or camping trips where there are no showers but ready access to water. It’s a little like the cup method described above, only you can use enough water to fill a dry bag rolled down to create a basin. This way you have enough water to wash your body, hair, and even some clothes. You can even heat up the water beforehand.

Note that this method is best at remote campsites where no-one else is around to catch a glimpse of you au-naturel. For more on lightweight hygiene, head here.

On longer hikes, a dry bag can be used as a basin. 

The Affordable

These camping showers don’t do everything for you, but still provide a good shower with some improvisation. If you want a warm shower, you’ll need to be able to heat up the water first and 12V power may be required.

If you don’t want to do it all handheld, you’ll also need to get creative for the setup of the shower – but with a little effort, you can set up a portable camping shower anywhere at a reasonable price!

1. Canvas Bucket Shower

This is the classic outback shower: a canvas bucket with a shower rose at the bottom, filled with hot water and hoisted into a tree. Low technology, so little to go wrong – but these units are too heavy for use inside a shower tent, so you’ll need to be comfortable showering in the open. Or, improvise some sort of screen.

You will need a way of heating up the water first – and don’t forget a length of rope to suspend your shower.

Solar showers are great – simple, but the water is warm for extra comfort. Image: Aaron Schubert

2. Solar Showers

Another simple shower setup. These are black or dark-coloured bags with a small shower rose and hose attached. The dark colour absorbs the heat and, once filled with water and left in the full sun for around three hours (the bonnet of your car is a good spot), you’ll have a bag full of warm water to shower with. Then, you can hoist these into a tree just as you would the canvas bucket – and your shower is ready to go!

Solar showers are also too heavy for shower tents to support, so you’ll need to suspend it somewhere and improvise a screen if required. The other drawback is that the nozzle usually needs to be handheld (they don’t always hang at the best angle).

3. 12V Electric Shower

12V showers are generally cheap, light, and easy to use with flexible hoses and a 12V pump that you stick in a bucket of warm (or cold) water. They even provide good pressure if the bucket height is close to that of the shower head. The shower rose is light enough to suspend in a shower tent or on any structure, such as a roof rack or pole. It can also be used handheld.

You will still need to warm up the water first, and they can require a little more maintenance to ensure a long life. Giving the pump a spray with CRC or WD40 is an easy way to help with this.

12V showers are lightweight and affordable. Image: Companion

The Luxurious

Just the full outback spa and bush shower package, please!

If a steaming hot shower is something you can’t (or won’t) do without at the end of the day, I’d recommend an all-in-one portable hot water and shower systems for your camping adventures. With these units, you can set temperature and flow rate – and with the addition of a few accessories, create your own spa in the serenity of your campsite.

You will need both gas to heat the water and 12V power for the pump, as well as a few batteries for the internal electrics. That said, the time spent packing extra gear will be long forgotten once you’re standing under a piping hot stream of water in your campsite.

There are a few different units to choose from; let’s start from the top shelf:

If you want luxury, look no further than a hot water system. Image: Smarttek

1. Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water System

This is the ‘ducks nuts’ of portable hot water systems.

The Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water System is great for basecamp-style setups (i.e. you’re staying in the same location for a while). They are simple to use and easy to set up, especially with the optional quick connect fittings; the best outdoor shower for those not willing to skimp on comfort when camping!

This portable hot water unit will heat to over 50 degrees, capable of flow rates up to 6 litres per minute and can draw water from 10+ metres away, depending on your setup. To create a truly relaxing experience, there is a host of optional accessories available – including a fully equipped ensuite shower tent.

If the availability of a hot shower is the only thing stopping a non-camper from going bush, the Smarttek Black Smart Hot Water Shower will more than likely convert them!

When you’re staying somewhere a while, a smart hot water system is ideal. Image: Smarttek

2. Companion AquaHeat Lithium Gas Shower

Companion have brought the best of new-age technology to their products with their Lithium gas shower.

With an integrated and rechargeable Lithium battery, you can get between 60-120 minutes of run time off a full charge. Its 2L per minute flow rate and the built-in gas regulator with BOM connection provides the ability to use either a propane cartridge or a ULPG cylinder (with a separately available hose), while quick-connect fittings make for a hassle-free attachment of the 1.5m pump hose and 2.5m shower hose! The AquaHeat also allows you to recharge while showering by operating directly from the included 2V DC lead and connector, or a separately available AC adaptor.

Enjoy hot water in seconds – anywhere, anytime!

Enjoy more privacy with a shower tent. Image: Darche

3. Shower Tent

It can be quite enlivening to shower butt-naked in a remote campsite with only your loved ones in sight, but to do so in an area that is also occupied by other campers is generally considered inappropriate.

If the latter is what you are likely to encounter, you’ll need a shower tent. The pop-up versions of these are easy to set up and provide privacy for both your shower and portable toilet, but aren’t sturdy enough to suspend a shower rose from.

For the complete shower setup, consider a shower tent with a rigid frame and guy ropes for a reliable place to mount the shower rose. Most of these will also have a waterproof area to hang your clothes and towel, and often include pockets for your toiletries. There are even two-room versions, so you can create a complete campsite ensuite.

What About a Camp Shower Base?

Most good shower tents will come with some sort of floor, usually of tarp or mesh, which work just fine. As an upgrade, we recommend using foam matting as your camp shower base. This is nicer to stand on and creates a barrier between you and the soggy ground, meanwhile allowing the water to run off and away.

There are some more luxe portable shower trays available that catch the water and channel it away via a waste hose, but we don’t carry these at Snowys. They tend to get a little bulky and difficult to transport for camping.

Biodegradable soaps and washes aid in leaving no trace. Image: Sea to Summit

Don’t Forget to Leave No Trace

Aim to leave nothing but footprints when you leave your campsite. Carry out your rubbish and have some consideration around the items you need to leave at the campsite, such as wastewater. It is important that we use biodegradable soaps and washes when we are showering in the bush, as this minimises our impact on the environment.

We also need to consider where the runoff from our camp shower ends up. Always set up your shower at least 100m from both wet and dry river and creek beds – the same rule applies to camp toilets.

Check out our range of environmentally friendly washing and cleaning solutions here.

Ben and Lauren also discuss camping and outdoor shower options on the Snowys Camping Show:

What’s your favourite method for staying clean on an outdoor adventure? 

The post How to Set Up the Perfect Camp Shower appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Every year, we promise ourselves we’ll be super organised; there’s nothing worse than taking off on an adventure and realising you’ve left something at home. You know, like a child.

Kidding.

More often than not though, it’s ultimately a mad rush to stock up on groceries and grab those extra bits and bobs before heading off.

So – buckle up for our choc-a-block guide to a fun, family-friendly, four-day Easter camping weekend! In this blog, we address the planning process, suggestions for the packlist, campsite cooking, and how to keep the keep the kids under wraps (when the chocolate no longer is)!

A whole four days away is just what everyone needs. Image: Coleman

Planning

Plan in Advance and Shop Early

Cleaning out the swags, the stove, the Esky, the car… some of these jobs can be done a couple of weeks in advance, while some must be done either the day of departure or just prior.

For example, checking the car should be done just ahead of leaving. What’s involved? Just the basic stuff: oil, water, tyres, belts, and spares. For more on how to prepare your 4WD or caravan ahead of lkjm,a road trip, check out this blog!

Remember too, it’s going to be madness at the shops – so there’s no harm in ticking off your shopping list early. If you’re taking meat, this also allows time to freeze it properly before packing into your Esky or fridge. To preserve your ice, pack some frozen food – and for more on that, check out ‘8 Tips for Keeping Ice Longer in Your Icebox’.

Know the Route

If you know where you’re going, you probably won’t bother… but if you’re going somewhere new, remember to pack a map or road atlas. That said, even if you do know where you’re going, it’s a good idea to have one in the case of last-minute, unforeseen detours.

It’s a good idea to have a map on hand in the case of unexpected detours. Credit: Darche

Spring Clean Your Repair Kit – and Your Gear!

An Easter camping trip is a great time to go through your repair and toolkit, and give it a spring clean. While you’re at it, check if you’ve used the last of your cable ties, or if your spare poles are the right size for your new tent. For the basics on building a toolkit, check out this blog – and for guidance on repairing your gear, this blog is handy too.

This way, if something crucial is missing, you’ve got plenty of time to source spares or replacements in advance, which takes the pressure off the day before your trip. Remember to check your first aid kit too!

Then there’s your gear. No one wants to crawl into their sleeping bag after a long day only to find it smells a little funky… or filled with mysterious, crummy, crunchy bits. Even worse, maybe you didn’t wipe the inside of your icebox or 12V fridge after your last trip, so are greeted with the stench of decay and some gnarly-looking mould?! It’s important to clean everything both before and after a trip. This will ensure your gear remains in good condition for many more uses and makes for easy preparation ahead of your next trip. For more on gear storage between getaways, Ben and Lauren discussed the topic on the Snowys Camping Show:

Dirty gear is not a great way to start a trip, so give it a wipe down before you go. Image: Erin Wescombe

Switch Up Your Camping Menu

Instead of your standard menu, attempt some fun Easter-themed recipes. Damper is a classic camping treat, but in the spirit of the season simply add cocoa powder and chocolate chips – or, if you’re overflowing with Easter eggs, break them up and throw them in for fun too. Plus, take it to the next level and cook hot cross buns in your camp oven too!

Don’t forget to stock up your fridge or Esky with some fresh or pre-cooked seafood too. If you’re camping by the coast, support local by purchasing there – or even catch the fish of the day yourself!

For more quick and easy camp meal suggestions, keep reading…

Homemade hot cross buns in the camp oven. Image: Mick the Camp Oven Cook

Instead of your standard menu, attempt some fun Easter-themed recipes. Image: OZtrail

Take Care with New Purchases

Or Head Instore for Last-Minute Essentials

Buying a big-ticket item such as a tent, swag, or gazebo at the last minute can often have you rushing your normal methodical, decision-making process. If it’s time for an upgrade, research thoroughly before buying. If you’re unsure of anything, give us a call or send us an email for advice. Check out this year’s Best Family Camping Tents or even our Guide to Choosing the Right Gazebo if you’re curious as to which styles and models others are buying. Considering an air tent? Here are 5 reasons why we support that decision.

Also, if ordering online, be aware of delivery delays. Easter is the busiest camping weekend of the year, so you might find you need to allow extra time.

Delivery times on family tents are longer due to their size and weight. Image: Oztent

Prepare Your Sleeping Mat

If you forgot to unroll your self-inflating mat before storing after your last trip away, or you typically don’t have the space – don’t forget to open it up at least a couple of days before your trip (depending on how long it’s been rolled up). Check your mat for any leaks and repair damaged areas ahead of time. This guide shows just how to do the job!

The best way to store your self-inflating mat is to keep it inflated with the valves open, before deflating and rolling up when it’s time to hit the road. Shopping around for a new mat? Check out this year’s best-sellers for camping here, or lighter-weight versions here.

Your self-inflating mat should come out of hibernation to ensure it’s ready to go for your trip. Image: Sea to Summit

Packing

Eggs-tra Pegs and Guy Ropes!

If the forecast is windy, extra guy ropes and pegs are always an excellent idea. Not sure what pegs you’ll need? Here’s a helpful article – but remember, if the breeze picks up, it is key to further stabilise your poles by adding guy ropes on either side to counteract any movement.

Ben and Lauren also talk tent pegs on the Snowys Camping Show:

It is wise to bring along extra pegs and guy ropes. Image: Explore Planet Earth

Sea to Summit Cookware

The Sea to Summit Passage Insulated Mug won’t only serve you well at the campsite, but keep your cuppa hot (or cold!) for longer – ideal for everyday use, especially for the coffee-loving commuter.

(On that note, check out the top 10 best-selling coffee makers for the campsite here.)

Then there’s the Passage Cutlery Set. Ever had ten-thousand spoons, when all you need is a knife?

Picture this. You’ve driven all day to the perfect camp spot. You’ve set up the tent, inflated the sleeping mat, unfurled the sleeping bags. All you want is a beer and to enjoy a meal. But WHERE ARE THE FORKS?! The Passage Cutlery Set from Sea to Summit consists of a tough, EU food-grade, glass-reinforced polypropylene fork, spoon, and knife that nest and clip together for easy use and compact storage. Genius.

Check out the full Sea to Summit cookware range here, including their new line of Detour, Passage, and Frontier. Boasting sleek, non-stick, abrasion resistant constructions that are as robust as they are lightweight, this collection consists of the ultimate cooking components to keep in the kitchen kit this camping trip.

Sea to Summit cookware are perfect lightweight options for outdoor escapes. Credit: Sea to Summit

Collapsible too, the Sea to Summit Frontier cookware range are the ultimate kitchen components to pack with the kit. Image: Sea to Summit

Multi-Tools

The Victorinox’s Deluxe Tinker is probably one of the most useful in their range. It boasts everything from a large and small blade, to scissors, pliers, a toothpick, and tweezers. With stacks of other uses, and possibly even life-saving tools and features in between – look and feel the part of a well-equipped camper with the Victorinox Deluxe Tinker.

Zippo also offer many compact and lightweight means to efficiently light a campfire – including flints, tinder, a mag strike, and a fire torch.

Lights and Lanterns

Lanterns have come a long way since the traditional miner’s style lamp you can imagine hooked to the side of a dusty mine. Smell that kerosine?

Cue the Darche Mini Multi LED Camp Light 3 Pack. Boasting a rechargeable 1200mAh lithium battery, benefit from four light modes to accommodate whatever illumination you require. A magnetic stand allows for convenient mounting, while an IPX5 rating resists the wetter weather . Packed compactly with a USB C charging cable into a convenient carry case too, the included carbiners also keep your lit bit of camp kit tidy and together! The better beacons worth packing with the camp kit. Watch the review below!

Then there are the Hardkorr U-Lite Dual Colour LED Lanterns – one of our best-selling lighting options, boasting impressive versatility. From the toolshed to the tent, enjoy more brightness and an inbuilt rechargeable lithium battery for convenience. Packing a blinding punch with an output of 155 lumens, light up the site for up to 6 hours on high and over 90 hours on low! Alternate effortlessly between high, medium, and low white light, while the orange hue option keeps the bugs at bay. 

Fairy lights are another way of adding a sense of magic and ambiance to the campsite – like the Luci Solar String Lights by MPOWERD.

Smaller string lights can add a sense of magic to your camp setup. Image: Earthwell

Easy-to-Cook Camp Meals

Some people out there take camp cooking seriously. If you don’t, but still want fast, tasty, and nutritious food – you’re cordially invited to our Easter degustation, featuring Go Native, Back Country Cuisine, The Outdoor Gourmet Company and Radix Nutrition for super simple and tasty freeze-dried meals.

A little fresher to the camp food crowd is Offgrid Provisions. From tangy tomato, zingy ginger, and smack of spice in a curry, to the modest side meal of Aussie-grown rice for more bulk in your grub – Offgrid offer that smack of savoury beyond the big smoke.

Best of all, each of these options are made from quality ingredients – and taste a lot better than you may expect from packaged camp meals!

…OK, OK – so you’re better than a packet meal? We commend you – and these days, cooking simple but delicious family-friendly camp meals is only becoming easier. Check out these tips for meal planning ahead of your next 4WD or camping trip, or some of our favourites on our YouTube series ‘Camp Cooking with Cam’.

It’s still possible to enjoy fast, tasty, and nutritious food without taking camp cooking too seriously! Credit: Sea to Summit

Cam’s Buttermilk Pancakes with Stewed Apples are the perfect camp breakfast option for the whole family on holiday.

‘But Honey… we’ll have the kids with us too…’

Camping with kids is great fun too, and steering your children away from computers and electronic devices and into the great outdoors can be very rewarding (especially for teenagers!). Planning ahead in general is recommended, but even more so when camping with the kids.

Maybe you have a campsite in mind, and the kids are already excited. Have you thought about what to take, whether you need to book ahead and secure your site, what kid-friendly activities are on offer, will they enjoy it, and what camp food you’ll pack?

Choose a Site with Suitable Amenities

Selecting a campsite that has facilities like toilets and a shower block will help children especially transition into going outdoors. This will make it easier for you too, in packing less gear. Choose a destination with your kids, and make sure you book ahead.

Other things to consider with your campsite, is how far it is away from home. You want to be able to enjoy time and space from your daily routine, but at the same time, you might not want to sit through a 4 hour car ride.

Steering your children away from electronic devices and into the great outdoors is very rewarding. Credit: Darche

Ben and Lauren discuss the considerations involved in choosing an ideal campsite on the Snowys Camping Show:

Set Up a Trial Camp in the Backyard

If it’s their first trip camping, familiarise your kids with sleeping in the family tent and make note of anything you’ll do differently while away. This is a great way to test whether the sleeping gear is warm, if your mats are comfortable, and whether there’s suitable lighting in the tent.

Be your tent old or new – setting it up the week leading into your trip will also allow time for identifying any issues, damage, or missing parts, and subsequently sourcing anything needed. No one wants to drive for hours on end only to discover a broken tent pole at base camp!

If your shelter is brand new, pitching it before your trip provides an opportunity to understand how the components are assembled, or check out a how-to video if required. By the time your trip rolls around, you’ll be good to go! Just ensure everything is packed back into the bag as it was…not tucked beneath the couch, or swallowed by the dog!

You want to be able to enjoy time and space from your daily routine.

Include Them in the Planning and Packing

Develop a checklist that you can use each time you go camping. This can be refined when you return to ensure you don’t forget anything next time. Encourage the kids to pack their bags with a list you have put together, and make sure you take extra clothes for them too (no doubt they’ll get theirs dirty)!

Plus, pack a few favourite toys and other items from home to create a more familiar environment for them.

Bring Appropriate Shelter to Accommodate Activities

Have some portable shade on hand, such as a gazebo or shelter, to set up an activity station.  This will keep your kids occupied and out of any harsh weather.

Pitching your tent at home allows the chance to identify any damage or parts missing. Image: The O’Hara Family

Consider Safety

Establish camp boundaries. Collect brochures and maps from information centres, and attend guided ranger talks (if they are available) to learn as much as you can.

Plan an Easter Egg Hunt (Leaving No Trace…)

Go prepared with items for a hunt, such as wrapped treats, fruit, or toys. If your kids are old enough too, you could create an orienteering game with a hand-drawn map and compass.

All the same, with the increased popularity of camping over the past few years, there’s concern over the environmental impact of campers not doing the right thing out in the bush or at the beach. On this year’s Easter camping trip, remember the key principals of Leave No Trace.

Still can’t find all the choccy eggs you planted in your own backyard last year? Easter egg hunts are an aspect of Easter that the kids look forward to, but there’s always a couple of stray choccies that go missing. Whilst this isn’t such a big deal when you’re at home, the foil (let alone the chocolate contents) can be hazardous to native wildlife if consumed. This can create negative long-term habits for them too.

Consider the native flora and fauna when preparing your Easter egg hunt. Image: Coleman

If you’re going to have an Easter egg hunt, keep note of the number of eggs you plan to hide and snap a picture of where they’re hidden. Maybe you only hide them around your tent and camp kitchen area to limit the number that go astray. There’s also the option of placing them inside smaller plastic containers to help prevent animals from getting to them before the kids!

When the hunt is over, the chocolate eggs have been gobbled, and the very last hot cross bun has been toasted – pack up camp and leave the site better than you found it. The next camper will thank you – and one day, the next camper will be you!

For more on leaving no trace, tune in to Ben and Lauren on the Snowys Camping Show:

Other Activities for the Kids

• Bush crafts

Pack an outdoor survival book and learn how to make a shelter, or look into other bush crafts.

• Mountain Biking

Bring the bikes for the family, and explore the trails together.

• Short Day Hikes

Be prepared with backpacks, water bottles and snacks for a family hike. Consider going with another family, so the kids have friends to play with.

• Exploring

Teach the kids about wildlife and outdoor ethics, like the leave no trace principles mentioned earlier. Attempt to spot any interesting trees, rocks, and bugs that are native to the area.

Take the time to be present, without aiming to achieve too much in a day.

Don’t Aim to Achieve Too Much

It will be far less stressful if you pick a destination that is not too far away. Don’t expect to hike all the way to the top of the hill, or jam too many activities into your day. Involve your kids in the small things such as pitching the tent, setting up the camp kitchen and packing up.

Make Time for Naps or Breaks

You and your kids will probably be knackered from all the activities you do – so make time to rest so everyone is ready to get up the next day and do it all again!

For more on this topic, Ben and Lauren unpack the considerations on the Snowys Camping Show – as well as how they can differ when camping with teenagers:

Happy Camping Everyone!

Be it chilling out at home in your own backyard, heading to the river, or going camping in the bush – we hope you have a fun and safe trip over Easter this year.

To unwrap something that lasts a little longer than chocolate this Easter, check out our deals!

We hope you have a safe and fun Easter this year!

Do you have a trip planned for Easter this year, or will you be relaxing at home?

The post The Choc-A-Block Easter Blog: Tips for Fun Family Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

I have always gone camping simply because I enjoyed it. I like using all my gear, sleeping in my tent, spending time with my family, and food always tastes better cooked on the campfire. What’s more, I read that past studies from the Liverpool John Moores University in the United Kingdom found 93 percent of campers believe the experience makes them happier.

Camping offers the opportunity to use our gear, spend quality time with family, and cook food on a campfire.

How Camping Changes Perspective

There was a time following recent events in my life when I felt the need to be somewhere I had space, silence, and simplicity. Somewhere to rationalise my thoughts. I needed to be in the outdoors.

I needed a camping trip.

Due to the unorganised state of my camping gear, a small window of opportunity, and really, really bad weather – I did not manage the impromptu camping trip I needed. This highlighted to me that I get much more out of a camping trip than I realised. I don’t just go camping for fun; I also need it as a type of therapy. To bring myself back to a sort of reality. To keep perspective on the important things in my life.

Sitting back and enjoying nature is a great way to clear your head. Image: Ben Collaton. 

Appreciating the Small Things

I needed to use my camping gear.

I enjoy packing my car, pitching my tent, using my headtorch, and lighting a fire. I wanted time to appreciate the small things, like the sound of light rain on my tent fly, cold morning air on my face, and the way the stars shine brighter in the wilderness.

It’s the simple things, like preparing hot food and drink on a campfire.

Food Prepared on a Campfire

I looked forward to getting up early so I can see my breath in the icy cold air while I make coffee.

I craved some really simple camp food. The type that would taste somewhat ordinary at home, but is suddenly an incredibly mouth-watering delight when cooked over a campfire.

Ben and Lauren discuss campfire cooking gear on the Snowys Camping Show:

Quality Time with Family

The above aside, the best part of camping for me is spending time with my family.

There are none of the distractions of day-to-day life to tempt you. You’re not reminded of your to-do list every time you walk past it. There’s no television, there’s no radio, and there’s no phone (well, if you turn it off).

You can focus solely on yourself, and your family.

Spending time with kids and other loved ones are so important. Photo: Ben Collaton. 

Camping as Therapy

I now think of camping as a ‘natural therapy’, a form far cheaper than many prescribed therapies offered to us nowadays.

It is also very accessible, and simple to get started. Just ask the staff at Snowys how you could be enjoying the great outdoors next weekend!

Camping is accessible and simple to get started!

Ben and Lauren also discuss camping as a form of recreation and community service in Ep73 of the Snowys Camping Show with Operation Flinders:

Share this article with anyone you think could do with a dose of ‘camping therapy’!

The post Is Camping a Form of Therapy? appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So how do we keep these items running in the outback… where there are no electricity plugs?

From battery systems to solar power for camping – let’s explore a few of the ways we can acquire electricity in the bush.

How do we keep our electronic items running in the outback? Image: BioLite

Car Battery

If you’re exploring this great country by vehicle, you’ll have power on board in the form of your car battery. This is charged by the alternator while you drive, and your driving is powered by the engine. Most cars put out 12 volts of power, and you will find that a large range of products designed to work in the bush will either run or charge from the car. Most will plug into the car through the cigarette lighter plug.

Pros:

• Reliable while you’re driving, and you will always have it when touring by vehicle
• No need to carry extra componentry, as it’s all built in to your vehicle

Cons:

• Most of the time, we like to use our electrical items when we’ve stopped the car somewhere. Once the car is turned off though, the battery ceases charging.
• This battery needs a lot of power to start the vehicle again, so if we use it all for our electrical items we will flatten the battery
• Once the car battery drops below approximately 10.5 volts, it will be too flat to start the car or run most appliances
• This means that this power source will not last long without using the car’s engine to recharge the battery
• The more appliances that the car is operating, the harder the alternator has to work. This means the engine has to work harder, increasing your fuel consumption.

Most cars put out 12 volts of power.

Dual Battery System

As your car’s battery doesn’t last long and is required to start the vehicle again, the popular decision is to fit a larger second battery. Both batteries are charged by the car when it’s running, but are isolated when the ignition is turned off.

This allows the second battery to run your appliances, leaving the main battery fully charged to start your vehicle again.

Pros:

• The second battery allows you to run appliances for much longer after the vehicle has been turned off
• Most batteries used in a dual battery system can be completely flattened without damaging the battery
• These types of batteries are designed to store a lot of power, so can provide for longer than your main battery – even if you allow it to run flat

Cons:

• Dual battery systems can be complicated in their installation and usually require an auto-electrician to install
• They can be quite expensive to purchase and install
• The second battery will still need to be charged periodically. If being charged by the car, this will slightly increase your fuel consumption.
• You will also need to find space for the dual battery, which means adding more weight to your vehicle

For more on battery chemistry, Ben and Lauren chat with Hardkorr in an earlier season of the Snowys Camping Show:

Solar Panels

With the progression of solar power technology, we have access to a great source of environmentally-friendly power. Free-to-run solar panels can be used to recharge your main or second battery, rather than using the car.

Some systems are even powerful enough to run certain appliances directly, and come in all shapes and sizes for use in a variety of activities and appliances.

Pros:

• Free to run and can be used almost anywhere
• Environmentally friendly, and no need to carry fuel or start your vehicle to use
• Great for charging your batteries when staying in one spot for an extended period of time, or when using high-consumption appliances that require more regular recharging of your batteries.
• Available in a range of sizes – so hikers to carry smaller models for charging mobile phones and GPS systems, and 4WD explorers can carry larger panels to recharge lanterns, or run fridges and laptops

Cons:

• Solar panels are often extremely expensive and awkward to carry
• Solar panels only operate during the day when the sun is present
• Most solar panels require a good supply of sun to ensure they can produce a sufficient amount of power. Some panels may only charge at a decent rate for 3-4 hours a day.
• Most solar panels need to sit in direct sunlight and do not produce a huge volume of power
• Solar panels are often quite fragile and need to be well looked after
• Despite smaller and more efficient models available, solar panels can still be very expensive
• It’s recommended to check consumption rates when deciding on an appropriate system for your needs

Solar panels are available in a range of sizes to suit various needs. Image: Hardkorr

Generators

Generators provide a good, strong supply of power almost anywhere you go. They will operate at all hours of the day (or night) and deliver 240 volts of power to run normal household appliances. Generators can be used to both power appliances directly or charge batteries.

Pros:

• Provide a constant power source that is strong and reliable while running
• Deliver the most power to run household appliances directly, or charge batteries quickly
• Generators are portable and available in smaller, more user-friendly sizes

Cons:

• Generators are noisy. Even the quiet models can often still be heard by the neighbours!
• They are relatively expensive and require fuel, which means you’ll need to carry an extra supply.
• Generators occupy a substantial amount of space, as does the Jerry holding the fuel
• They cannot be used during Total Fire Ban (TFB) days, and can only be used in a restricted manner in most caravan and National Parks (if at all)
• Some places require generator users to only stay in allocated camp areas. This means everyone around you will have their generators purring away, which will be quite noisy!

Ben and Lauren also tap into recreational generators on the Snowys Camping Show:

Plus, check out our product demonstration on the Engel 3500 Pure Sinewave Inverter Generator R3000IE:

Gas and Other Liquid Fuels

Of course, not all of us take electrical items with us when we go camping. Some of us don’t even take our phones, or only use them for emergencies. For most small appliances like phones, UHF radios, lanterns, and camera batteries, the car’s power supply is sufficient. However, gas and other liquid fuels are popular for stoves and lighting.

Pros:

• Gas and liquid fuel stoves are much more efficient than electrical items, and cheaper to run
• Gas and liquid fuel lanterns often provide a much brighter light, and are both cheap and efficient to run
• Liquid fuel canisters and gas bottles are often cheaper and smaller to carry than some battery systems, solar panels and generators

Cons:

• Like all fuels, they need to be carried and refilled as they are used
• Gas refills can be difficult to find in remote areas
• Gas and liquid fuel appliances cannot be used on total fire ban days
• With the development in electrical item technology, gas and liquid fuel appliances may be more expensive to run than some electrical items (such as fridges and LED lanterns)

Gas and other liquid fuels are popular for stoves and lighting.

One Final Note

If you’re taking electrical appliances, you may need to consider a power source that will keep your appliances both running or charging.

Whatever appliance you’re using, it is extremely important to ensure your vehicle’s starting battery is protected. A good, reliable power source also allows the use of items that will make your experience less stressful and more enjoyable.

When choosing a power source, consider the power needs and the volume of power required of all appliances. Take into consideration where you are taking them, and how long you will need them to run for.

If you’re taking electrical appliances, consider a power source that will keep your appliances both running or charging. Image: BioLite

If in doubt, give us a call on 1300 914 007 or email us at service@snowys.com.au. Let us know where you are going, how long you plan to stay, and what appliances you plan to run for some sound advice on which power source may be best for you. Once you’ve got the off-grid power source that’s right for you and your troop, check out our online store for all the gear you’ll need to go with it!

If you’re already a few steps ahead, what are your recommendations for powering up in the bush? Let us know in the comments below!

The post 5 Ways to Power Up in the Bush appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, a fridge requires a fair bit of energy to run – it’s almost always the highest consumer, and you need to get that power from somewhere. There is a lot of focus on solar panels and batteries, but there are a number of ways you can reduce the energy consumption from your 12V fridge.

In this blog, we defrost our top 10 tips for how to reduce the energy consumption of your 12V fridge off the grid – so you can keep the cans cold and perishables fresh for longer. From kicking back on the boat to basking in the balmy bliss of the campsite, read on for a refresher on fridge maintenance facts and energy-saving hacks to keep the tucker in date.

These days, portable fridges are extremely popular additions to any camping and 4WD arrangement. Image: Dometic

How Much Power Does a Fridge Need?

There are many different factors that affect the energy consumption of a 12V fridge: size, compressor style, ambient temperature, insulation thickness, the temperature they are set to cool to, what you are using it for – the list goes on. However, most will consume in between 1 amp and 6 amps (with 2.5 amps being fairly average) per hour when running. That said, a fridge won’t usually run 100% of the time, so it only pulls that current when the compressor is on.

Most fridges are loud enough to hear within a few metres. Again, the cycle time varies considerably, but on average they run about 50% of the time.

Using the above example – where the fridge draws 2.5 amps when the compressor is on, but only runs for 1/2 the day – it will use 30 amp hours of the battery capacity.

Measuring a Fridge’s Power Consumption

Power consumption is measured in Amps per Hour (Aph or a/h), which refers to the number of amps an appliance uses in one hour of use.

There are 2 ways that a/h is measured for camping fridges:

1. Usage draw – this is the amount of power the fridge draws while running
2. Average draw – this is the amount of power the fridge draws per hour over a 24-hour period

When determining power consumption, it is important to look at both figures. However, the second figure (average draw), will give the best indication of fridge efficiency.

Fridges will cycle on and off to maintain temperature. Better insulation means less cycling, in turn resulting in a better average current draw.

Do not run your fridge off your main battery. Run a dual battery setup instead. Image: Aaron Schubert

What Battery Should a Fridge Run Off?

Fridges should never run off the cranking battery that you use to start your vehicle. The only exception to this is while you are driving, and only if you absolutely must. The reason behind this is simple: your cranking battery is imperative to start your vehicle, so if you run it flat you’ll be in serious trouble.

The most common way to run a fridge is with a second battery, which is isolated from the main cranking battery. The best option is a deep-cycle battery, designed (as the name suggests) to cycle from full to half empty, and back again – anywhere from 1200-1700 times. You can run them off a normal cranking battery, though they don’t like to be cycled and you will shorten its life substantially. Lithium batteries are also becoming more popular, as they have several advantages, but they also come at a pretty hefty cost.

How Low Can I Go With the Battery?

Far too many people think that just because their fridge is running, the battery has enough power left. This is not the case – you should not run your battery to below 50% of charge (normally around 12.2-12.3 volts).

A fridge will continue to run well below this until the low-level alarm is set off and cuts the power. Most fridges have a low-level cut-out, but it’s not usually until well under 12 volts. If you run your battery below 50% of charge, its lifespan will be rapidly decreased – and batteries aren’t cheap!

If you have a 100Ah deep-cycle battery, you should only be using 50 amps of its capacity. This, in the above scenario, is only 1 and 2/3 of a day (without any other consumption) before you start to damage your battery.

From that point on, you either need to start your vehicle and allow the alternator to charge the battery, or arrange some solar input. However, after a couple of cloudy days things start to get a bit desperate! Using your vehicle’s engine to charge the battery is a pretty uneconomical way to do things too.

So – how can you reduce the energy consumption from your 12V fridge? Well, in a similar way to keeping ice cold for longer in an ice box, actually!

You should not run your battery to below 50% of charge. Image: Dometic

1. Cool Your Items Before Leaving Home

Most fridges will have the ability to run on 240V (this is a feature to look for when buying a fridge). If you can avoid it, don’t put room temperature items in your fridge. It will only have it working harder and using more power. Run the fridge on 240V and cool it down at home before heading off on your trip. Most power will be drawn while cooling down the interior of the fridge, so use 240V at home to lower temperature before putting the fridge on 12V.

Obviously, this is unavoidable if you are on the road. Where possible though, pre-chill your food and drink.

2. Crack the Lid Slowly

If you unlatch your fridge and yank the lid up, the rapid movement draws a huge volume of cold air out of your fridge and sends it into the atmosphere. Once you close the lid, the fridge needs to cool down the hot air you’ve just filled it with.

The trick is simple: crack the lid gently until it’s open about 10cm, then open it normally. This will both stop most of the cold air escaping, and save you some substantial power consumption.

Crack the lid gently until it’s open about 10cm, then open it normally. Image: Engel

3. Keep the Fridge Full

A full fridge works much more efficiently than an empty one. If you are running low on food and drinks in the fridge, bottles of water work very well. Once they are cool, you’ll save a lot of energy; they don’t immediately change temperature like air does when the lid is opened.

Make sure the food and drink you put into your camping fridge are already cold. If you put a warm slab of drinks into the fridge, it will use lots of power to cool those drinks down to temperature, before it starts cycling again.

Another recommendation is to allow your fridge to freeze (-15 degrees) and add a couple of freezer bricks. Make sure to put the fridge on a few days in advance for it to freeze properly. This will ensure the interior of your fridge is nice and cold. If you have enough space to fit your food in with the freezer bricks, leave one or two in when you pack your food before adjusting = the temperature of the fridge back to two degrees. The fridge will work like an Esky for the first part of your trip, and may not even turn itself on to keep cold for days!

4. Keep Your Fridge as Cool as Possible

It sounds like common sense, but many fridges have been seen laying around in the sun at campsites. Obviously, your fridge will work better in the shade, and out of hot vehicles. If it’s packed in the boot and your car is in the sun, your fridge will be combatting high ambient temperatures and will likely drain your battery twice as fast.

The difference between a fridge operating in an ambient temperature of 25 to 40 degrees is huge. The hotter the air outside of the fridge, the harder your compressor has to work. Obviously, you can’t always the ambient temperature, but you can control where your fridge is stored.

Parking under a tree, for example, will keep your vehicle much cooler and reduce how much work the fridge has to do to keep your food and drinks cold. If you are parked up, open the back of the vehicle so it doesn’t heat up.

A full fridge works much more efficiently than an empty one. Image: Dometic

A fridge slide is a good way of keeping your fridge secure in the 4WD, but popping it out like this, when you’re at camp, ensures airflow. Image: Aaron Schubert 

5. Airflow is Imperative

The compressor in your fridge will produce heat, a by-product of reducing the temperature inside the cabinet. It’s important to allow plenty of space for this heat to escape from your fridge. More ventilation results in better efficiency. It’s all well and good having your fridge packed in tight – but if it can’t breathe freely, you are making it work hard. Ensure the compressor has ample room to suck in clean, cool air. If you have the fridge mounted in an enclosed area, consider the use of a  small vent or computer fan to aid air circulation.

Toolboxes on the front of camper trailers are popular for mounting fridges, but on a warm day they can easily reach 65 degrees inside. While it probably won’t kill your fridge, it isn’t doing it any favours in terms of longevity – and will most certainly cause it to consume more power.

6. Fridge Covers

You’ll see that a lot of fridge manufacturers sell covers for their fridges. These help to protect the fridge, but also improve their insulation properties. The better insulated your fridge, the less heat that can pass through and the less cold air that can escape. Almost all fridges will benefit from an insulative cover by preventing the outer casing from heating up. It’s kind-of like putting an Esky into a soft cooler bag. By adding extra insulation to the fridge, it will stay colder for longer and thus use less power.

Next time you are at your fridge, touch the outside of it when it’s running. If it is noticeably cooler than the air around you, the insulation is allowing the cold to escape.

Fridge covers help insulate the fridge so that it runs cooler. Image: Aaron Schubert

7. Time and Number of Times Opened

The longer you leave your fridge open, the more it has to cool down when you close it again. Every time you open the fridge, you will displace the cold air. This means the fridge has to cool all the new air that has entered the fridge.  Limit the amount of time the fridge is left open or how frequently it is opened to prevent the internal temperature rising. Make a habit of grabbing what you need quickly and closing the lid. 

If you are about to cook something, have a think about what you need before opening the fridge. Don’t limit yourself to only opening the fridge a few times a day, but anything you can do to limit the number of times you open the fridge is ideal. As mentioned in the blog post on keeping ice from melting, perhaps have a small icebox at your disposal to keep drinks nearby. This will save you from having to open the fridge too often.

8. Close the Lid Properly

While it’s easy to just drop the lid and not do up the latches, if any air can pass in or out it’ll have the fridge working harder. Take the extra two seconds to latch it closed.

Snowys blogger Aaron Schubert’s trusty EvaKool 12V fridge. Image: Aaron Schubert.

9. Check the Wiring

The power supply to your fridge needs to have adequately sized wiring. If it is too small, you’ll lose efficiency quite quickly. Usually, this is an issue from your battery to the fridge power-point, especially if it’s running from the front of the vehicle to the rear. It’s recommended to run a 6mm square cable, minimum. 

Heavy-duty wiring from your 12V battery to your fridge won’t have your fridge use any less power, but it will help you get more out of your battery. Many standard vehicle setups have thin wiring looms that attribute to voltage drop. This means that while your battery reads 12.5V, only 12V is reaching your fridge. Furthermore, if your fridge is fitted with battery protection, it may turn itself off despite there being plenty of life left in your battery.

10. Use a Quality Fridge

Lastly, if you’ve bought yourself a cheap fridge and you find it’s chewing the power, it might be time to consider upgrading to a more quality unit. Brands like Engel, Dometic, Evakool, and Bushman have each earned themselves a solid reputation!

Keep an eye on your voltage usage. Image: Aaron Schubert

Enjoy Your Fridge!

There’s nothing quite like being able to pull a cold drink from your fridge in the middle of nowhere. Enjoy the luxury, do what you can to conserve energy consumption – and if it’s still using too much, consider looking at improving your solar or battery arrangement.

There’s nothing quite like being able to pull a cold drink from your fridge in the middle of nowhere. Image: Dometic

This blog is a consolidation of a 2016 work by Aaron Schubert and a 2015 work by David Leslie, updated for 2024.

What sort of 12V fridge do you use? Let us know in the comments. 

The post 10 Ways to Power Your 12V Fridge for Longer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Your next camping destination might not necessarily be right under your nose. You may have to look for it.

A little thought and planning can make all the difference, and this blog will help to narrow down to the perfect destination to travel to on your adventures.

Choosing the perfect location for your next getaway doesn’t have to be a stressful experience.

1. How Far Will You Travel?

The magical travel time for the perfect getaway is well known in the tourism industry to be around two hours. Accommodation and experience providers aim to be located around 2 hours from major populations – but in a country as large as Australia, travelling for a little longer can be rewarding.

If it’s a weekend getaway, two hours or so is about right. However, if you will be extending your stay at the next destination, a longer journey is definitely doable.

You don’t want to have to race to your destination – plan the distance and journey in proportion to how long you will stay there.

As we travelled around Australia, we found the average distance for a trip was around three hours. That was over a year travelling Australia with around 150 stops. Some trips were shorter, particularly near capital cities, while others stretched up to six or seven hours.

Of course, the terrain you are covering can alter travel times. Are you heading off-road, into the high country, or along some beaches? If the answer is yes to either, travel certainly won’t be as fast as tearing up the Mount Panorama main straight! Make sure to allow for this as well.

Some of the best locations are off-road and remote. Allow enough time to get into them.

2. ‘Me’ Time or Social Time?

There are over 25 million people inhabiting Australia – but even on such a large continent, you can always find some space for yourself. Are you looking to get out to enjoy it alone, or to have some fun with new friends?

Caravan parks and resorts can be very popular, frequented often by plenty of people on short, medium, and longer-term holidays. If you are looking to meet like-minded people, you can slide into a site and straight into a social group.

Are you wanting to go camping or on holiday near lots of people to share adventures, stories and fun?

Alternatively, you might be looking to head off somewhere remote, where there’s just you, some great views, and the odd native animal. Australia has some of the best remote camping and caravanning destinations in the world – and while you may need to travel a little longer to get there, the rewards of silence and stunning views can be incredible.

Or would you prefer something a little more remote, perhaps for some alone time?

3. What Camping Style Works For You?

If you’re heading off in a tent with little else, you might need to camp a little closer to some facilities, like bathrooms and toilets. Same goes for some campers or pop-top caravans without full facilities. Different campsites, national parks, and caravan parks have different facilities available to campers and caravanners; some near, some far away, and some non-existent.

Do you want to be close to facilities like camp kitchens, toilets, pools, and playgrounds? We love a good camp kitchen when available.

If you have a full caravan, portable facilities, or just don’t mind roughing it a bit, your options open up considerably. It also provides more of an opportunity to get back to nature and enjoy the simple things.

Or are you happy creating or taking along your own amenities and resources?

4. Be Smart and Have an Emergency Plan

During our summers, Australia has fought some of the harshest bushfires in history. Many holidaymakers have been caught up in some pretty terrifying situations – and we were no different on our trip.

Whenever you head somewhere, be aware of multiple exit points.

Can you get in and out in an emergency? If you can, where do you need to head to?

Where are the nearest populations and hospitals?

Having a fire or emergency plan when travelling is just as important as when at home.

Accidents can happen. When travelling around Australia, we had a broken and dislocated wrist to tend to, which had has heading to hospital!

During our travels, we were able to access emergency apps to monitor and avoid raging bushfires – but we couldn’t totally avoid our share of emergencies! A bike incident resulted in multiple emergency and hospital visits for one of our sons, luckily on the east coast. However, another son fell in a fire on the Gibb River Road, requiring first aid and a subsequent visit to a remote community hospital for follow-up.

We also had a first-degree burn to manage, in a fairly remote part of Australia.

Whenever we travel, we take note of exit routes, local hospitals, and towns. We also carry with us our first aid kits, water, and communication devices to keep us and our family protected.

It can also come in handy to help others. On our travels, we often came across local and international tourists who weren’t prepared and needed help with First Aid and even water.

It’s not just about knowing your options. Whenever we go anywhere, we take along our backpacks, full of emergency supplies.

5. Leave Your Destination Better for the Next Visit

As we travelled around Australia, we were always amazed at how little others seem to care for some of the great locations we have to offer. It’s not just the international tourists either!

When we depart somewhere, we always try to leave it in better condition than when we found it. Picking up rubbish is pretty simple, and can make a big difference to the local environment. Pay it forward when you can.

As the expression goes: ‘take only photographs and leave only footprints’!

Wherever you go, leave only footprints. If you have the chance, clean up after others leaving a site even better than when you found it.

Australia is massive, and choosing the destination for your next camping or caravan trip can be overwhelming. Hopefully, we have helped you with a process to help find your next getaway!

Ben and Lauren also discuss the considerations when both finding and choosing a campsite, on the Snowys Camping Show:

How do you choose a new location? What do you consider and what resources do you use? We’d love to hear in the comments below.

The post 5 Tips For Planning a Camp Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

I’ve seen several budding campers go through a very steep learning curve regarding water usage, especially when camping in more remote locations. Unlike at home, you are only able to carry a certain amount – and if you’re not careful with it, you’ll run out! This is particularly the case for caravans and camper trailers with showers on board. As convenient and luxurious as they are, it’s easy to empty the water tanks by enjoying those long showers.

7 days off-grid with only the water we brought.

Pay Attention

Next time your water bill comes in, have a look at the amount of water you are consuming at home each day. Then, think about the water storage you have when camping. The average consumption in Australia is anywhere from 100-300 litres per person, per day. You just can’t get away with that when camping without a very elaborate setup (which we discuss further down). If anything will encourage awareness around water usage, and help someone appreciate the need to conserve water – spending time off-the-grid will do it.

So – how can you save water when camping?

Bush baths for our two little boys.

Clean Yourself Efficiently

Hands down, showering is the largest consumer of water when camping. For this reason, a vast number of people decide to forego showering altogether, which is the ultimate way to save water. Instead, they regularly use wipes and sponge baths which, although not overly glamorous, are quick, easy, and leave you clean and refreshed.

Our outdoor shower set up with water-efficient showerhead.

However, if you do have a shower, there are many advisable habits you can embrace to conserve water.

The first is to make sure you have a conservative pump and showerhead.

The second is to adopt a new practice: before turning the water on, get organised with undressing and have everything you need ready to go. Turn the water on, wet yourself down, turn the water off, soap up, turn the water back on, quickly rinse yourself, and turn it off once more before hopping out. By using this method, our little family of 4 (including 2 toddlers) can each have a reasonable shower using under 14 litres of water in total. That’s 3.5 litres of water on average, and we repeat this regularly.

Another fantastic tip is to consider using dry shampoo. This is particularly useful for those with longer hair – you will use a tremendous amount of water when wetting and rinsing liquid or bar shampoo.

Electric pumps can make you waste water easily.

Make Water ‘Harder’ to Get

On our previous camper trailer, we had much less water storage, and it also came with a hand pump. This manual device requires you to move a knob up and down, building the pressure for water flow. More effort and time is required, but hand pumps have one very distinct benefit: they will save you water. With each stroke, you are consciously pulling water out of your limited supply.

When you can flick a lever, or turn a tap on, it’s easy to allow water to run down the drain – and when you have a limited amount, this is an issue. For kids especially, a hand pump is a fantastic way to conserve water.

Alternatively, ensure your pump and piping don’t empty your tanks with a high flow rate. Anything around the 4L/minute is going to do you very well.

Lastly, you will use less water from a small tap on a jerry can than an electric pump that just chugs it out with no regard for your water conservation. You want to be comfortable, but anything that has you conscious of your water usage is a good thing – which leads us to the next point…

Our flow metre is showing we have 107 litres of water left.

Meter the Water

A large majority of people rely on rudimentary water gauges, or the ability to either feel the weight or see the water levels through a jerry can. A game-changer for us has been the flow meters we have on our new camper trailer. These reset when the tank is full and calculate every single litre as the water is used, displaying the remaining volume on the digital screen.

Flow meters are a brilliant way to not only know precisely the amount of water you have left (as the level sensors are average at best), but to keep track of consumption while doing individual water-based tasks. This is how we know we are only using 14L of water for our family showers.

Washing hands regularly or using a sanitiser is crucial for maintaining hygiene. Image: Sea to Summit

Keep Your Hands Clean

Hygiene when camping is essential, and frequent handwashing is a crucial part of this. We primarily use hand sanitiser for its convenience, effectiveness, and lack of water requirement. Washing your hands several times per day with soap and water eats into your supplies and, although this method is still necessary from time to time, compensating with sanitiser reduces water consumption.

Camping near freshwater is handy for bucket washing your socks and jocks.

Wash Your Clothes Efficiently

Laundry on the road isn’t the easiest task, especially when your water supply is restricted. Many people take their washing to a laundromat, therefore saving their stored water.

However, this is not always possible – and washing clothes on the road is common. Whether you are using a bucket for your laundry, a small washing machine, or a wash bag – one of the best things you can do is use a wool wash-based detergent, as this doesn’t require rinsing off. As a result, you’ll save a heap of water.

Collecting clean water from a creek.

Use Other Water Available

Of course, you must use this water for the right applications. Plus, always maintain awareness of your environmental impact by using eco-friendly products that will not contaminate waterways. That said, camping near a water source is a valuable asset.

Rivers, Creeks, and Lakes

We regularly take water from creeks, rivers, lakes, and even the beach occasionally. This is never for drinking, but we regularly use all but the seawater for showering and bathing and, if it’s clean, to pre-rinse filthy dishes (like those following a roast dinner!). With just a stainless steel bucket, a fire, and access to clean water – you can have hot water exceptionally quickly. This is magic for a camping shower or bush bath for the kids – and it costs you nothing!

Seawater

Now, you might think that the only good thing about seawater is seafood and boating, but that’s not exactly true. We use it for cleaning the bulk of muck off our dishes regularly, before giving them a rinse in freshwater. It’s also the perfect thing for cleaning seafood and any rust-proof gear. If you have stubborn things to clean that need a bit of muscle, mix a little sand from the beach with some water, and you’ll be scrubbing for half the time – it works like magic!

Catch What You Can

Get creative if the weather turns during your trip – instead of cursing the rainwater, collect it! There are parts of Australia that receive a heap of rain, and a few creative people make use of this. If you have a tarp or awning, you can direct the water into a bucket. Some vans even have a setup to channel rainwater straight into a secondary tank.

Rainwater is brilliant and, providing you are careful with how it’s collected and used, a terrific way to keep your water topped up.

Many camp oven meals are one-pot wonders and use fewer dishes.

Conserve What You Have

One of my favourite ways to conserve water is to use what nature has given us. However, if that is not available, here are some tips to help save each precious drop of what you have stored!

Limit Dishes and use Spray Bottles

Anything you can do to reduce the number of dirty dishes you create will conserve water. One-pot meals are a huge winner for many reasons, but especially in regards to dishes and water consumption. Many people like to use a spray bottle filled with water, and a small squirt of detergent. For most plates and bowls, all that’s required is a small spray and a gentle wipe, followed by a dribble rinse with fresh water.

Baby Wipes

Although you need to dispose of them responsibly, baby wipes are one of the most compact and useful items when camping. Besides their obvious use for children, they are fantastic for cleansing yourself and general cleaning about camp. We always have some with us – not just for the kids, but for us adults too!

Cook on the Fire

We’ve fallen in love with cooking over the hot coals of a campfire! The meals are delicious, and there are often far fewer dishes which makes clean-up quick and easy. We use a small fold-out grill that is perfect for reducing our clean-up. Alternatively, the camp oven is a great option for one-pot meals too.

Put fires out with collected water.

Extinguish Fires with Collected Water

You should never leave your campfire as either hot coals, or still burning. Too many people have stood on old fires, and received terrible burns. Covering them up with loose dirt is not a solution either, as they can continue burning for a long time.

Applying water is the best way to extinguish a campfire. This can come from the ocean, a creek, river, or lake – or even your greywater works. Just don’t use your drinking water, if you can avoid it.

MSR Guardian Water Purifiers are another filtration system. Image: MSR

Make Your Own Water

Last but not least – it is even possible to turn dirty or brackish water into perfectly safe, drinkable H2O!

If it doesn’t contain salt, a filtration or chemical treatment can be used. Surprisingly, freshwater can be created from saltwater using an RO (Reverse Osmosis) unit. This is not for everyone, as having an RO system requires a lot of space and energy – and the initial setup can be costly. However, it is the ultimate way to create significant volumes of freshwater daily. Alternatively, if your requirements are minimal, purification systems like the MSR Guardian Water Purifier or the Grayl UltraPress are compact and portable solutions.

Some people travel full-time with impressive solar and battery systems. enabling them to operate their RO unit and provide endless fresh water on demand. That said, they do need to be camped near a water source – but even beach camping allows them this option.

A hot shower when camping is nothing short of amazing.

It Takes Time

New habits take time and practice to learn, and these methods shouldn’t feel like an enormous sacrifice or a significant inconvenience. Instead, they should simply be a part of camping that you learn to do and appreciate.

A hot shower when you are out bush or camping on the beach is nothing short of amazing – and it’s possible with the right water-saving methods in place!

Ben and Lauren also discuss water storage options for camping on the Snowys Camping Show:

Do you have any tips for saving water when camping? Let us know in the comments!

The post How to Save Water When Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Enjoying yourself in the outdoors always requires a bit of ‘prior preparation to prevent poor performance’. So, I’m sharing my ten tips on how to keep those pesky bugs at bay.

As the saying goes: if you think you’re too small to have an impact, try going to bed with a mosquito in your tent. Well, the same applies here: small efforts can have a huge impact!

Enjoying yourself in the outdoors always requires a bit of ‘prior preparation to prevent poor performance’. Credit: Hard Korr

1. Reduce the Appeal

It’s common for bugs to find their victim through scent. To reduce the chance of bugs coming for you, avoid the smelly deodorants, body sprays, creams, ointments, and other scent-inducing products! If the need for a wash arises, consider using a non-scented or naturally-scented soap, such as the Sea to Summit Wilderness Wash with Citronella. This will reduce how much odour you emit, and that alone can halve the number of flying pest attacks!

2. Spray & Cream

Probably the most common defensive strategy when attempting to keep the bugs at bay is the use of repellent spray and/or cream. There are plenty of options on the market, but my personal preference is for those with natural ingredients. These can sometimes be difficult to locate, in which case an option like Bushman’s is a reliable go-to.

When considering sprays and creams, ensure they have either low or no odour, and include at least 20% DEET (Diethyltoluamide). Furthermore, take notice of how long the product claims to remain effective, what bugs it claims to repel, and whether it’s water- or rub-resistant!

3. Dress for the Occasion

It makes sense, when you think about it… the more skin is exposed, the more there is for bugs to feast on. Even on a warm night, wearing a light windbreaker will reduce bites. Consider a Buff to protect your neck and face, or even just a pair of socks to protect your ankles and feet.

Consider a Buff to protect your neck and face. Credit: Buff

4. Candles & Coils

Candles and coils have been utilised for years as a barrier for bugs – however, there is a diversity of opinion regarding their effectiveness. In masking the scent produced by humans, they act more as a deterrent than a repellent.

In my experience, much of their effectiveness comes down to the ingredients in the candle or coil, where paraffin wax and 100% natural citronella oil seem to be the most trusted combo. Other factors include the density of candles or coils in the area you’re trying to deter the bugs from, and environmental conditions such as wind. 

5. Orange Lighting

Now – I’m no scientist, but I know that when considering light at camp, it’s the colour output that determines how much it attracts flying insects of all sorts.

A light’s colour output determines how much it attracts insects. Credit: Hard Korr

Bugs generally see three colours of light: ultraviolet (UV), blue, and green. Bright white lights are the most attractive for insects, whereas yellow or orange light (suggestive of sunlight) is less so for most. This explains the increased availability and popularity of yellow and orange camp lighting kits, such as this one from Hard Korr. The warm lighting provides interchangeable options, setting a nice atmosphere around camp and simultaneously reducing the attraction of bugs!

Yellow or orange light (suggestive of sunlight) is less attractive to most bugs. Credit: Hard Korr

The warm light sets a nice atmosphere around camp, simultaneously reducing bugs. Credit: Hard Korr

6. Zappers

In a similar light (excuse the pun), UV light can also be harnessed to attract bugs to low-voltage zappers, stopping them dead in their tracks.

These small, portable, and often rechargeable devices pack a pretty effective punch for their cost. I’m constantly amazed by how powerful and effective zapper lanterns (like this one) can be! Plus… I reckon there’s a sweet joy in hearing that sizzle of death every time it zaps a bug!

7. Bracelets

The jury is out on repellent bracelets. For me, they have never seemed to work – but I’ve adventured with others who swear by them.

The silicone bands are worn on your wrists and usually chemical-free, which appeals to those who are hesitant to spray aerosols or rub the cream onto their skin. While they are chemical-free, they tend to be a dispensable item given they often only last for 48 hours.

8. Gas-Heated Mats

A lightweight, compact, and shared option for the weight and space-conscious adventurer, these gas repellents utilise heat to activate a repellent-coated mat that provides over 20 square-metres of protection from bugs. The repellent mats include allethrin, a synthetic extract from the chrysanthemum flower. They last for up to four hours each, and replacement mats are available too.

A 100g Isobutane or Propane gas canister will provide over 90 hours of protection. However, just like candles and coils, it’s important to recognise that environmental conditions (such as wind) can reduce their effectiveness.

Thermocell mosquito repellers provide over 20 square-metres of protection from insects. Credit: Thermocell

9. Campfire Smoke

In locations where campfires are still permitted, smoke is another effective deterrent. When insects smell burning wood or leaves, their instinct is to flee the vicinity to protect themselves from danger (i.e. bushfires). In a sense, your campfire is just another fire to bugs, and that triggers a retreat!

The downside of embracing a campfire to repel insects is the inevitability that someone will always be in the direct line of smoke!

Campfire smoke is another effective deterrent. Credit: Ben Trewren

10. Nets for Beds & Screen Rooms

An option that avoids sprays, creams, smoke, and smells is a screen of some kind. Given that a tent or swag is a stagnant, sealed area of warm air and condensation (plus a live food source), it’s no wonder insects are desperate to get in!

The most obvious is what you might already have at camp, and keeping the fly-screen zipped up on your tent or swag throughout the day. Many swags and tents feature ‘superfine’, ‘ultrafine’, or ‘insect-proof’ mesh over the windows and doors. This doesn’t mean that the shelter is midge proof; in many cases, midges are small enough to invade mosquito- and other insect-proof mesh. Instead, ‘sandfly-proof’, ‘midge-proof’, or ‘no-see-um’ mesh is theoretically designed to be fine enough to restrict midges.

As well as this, the reliability of the zips and taped seams (to close off manufacturing defects like holes) will also help. Another recommendation is to spray the mesh of your tent, swag, or shelter with permethrin (one of the options that cause minimal to no damage to fabrics).

There are other products you can add to your kit, too. The simplest of the more individualised options is a head net. If that doesn’t suffice, consider a bed net for one, or a few. To maintain communal space, a screen tent is the best option.

The frustration that comes from these screens, however, is that everyone is confined to a relatively small space – and once somebody gives that up, they risk facing bugs that are no doubt ready to pounce!

Screen tents are the best option for maintaining a communal space. Credit: Oztent

To avoid sprays, creams, smoke, and smells, a screen of some kind also helps to deter insects. Credit: Sea to Summit

We’ve also discussed this topic on the Snowys Camping Show.

What about you? How have you fought the good fight in seeking peace and refuge from these relentless bugs? Got any tips, tools, or tricks not covered above?

The post 10 Ways to Repel Bugs While Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

School’s out, the weather is fine, and one can usually manage to score a couple of days away from work. It’s the perfect time to pile some gear into the back of the car, hit the road, and escape the concrete maze and city haze of suburbia.

To make the most of the balmy nights and clear skies, we’ve listed our top tips for warm-weather camping…

School’s out, the weather is fine, and one can usually manage to score a couple of days away from work. Image: Zempire

1. Orange Lighting

Bright white lights attract bugs like nobody’s business.

A great way to mitigate this is by illuminating your campsite with warm or orange lighting. This is less attractive to bugs, so will help to minimise their presence.

That said – don’t ditch the mosquito repellent!  

The warm hue of orange lights is less likely to attract bugs. Image: Korr Lighting

2. Light-Coloured, Loose, and Breathable Clothing

Look for long sleeves for sun protection, and choose fabrics that are light, fast-drying, and help regulate your temperatures (such as technical synthetics or merino wool).

In warm weather, wearing cotton is fine – but it could cause discomfort or chafing if you start to perspire, as it doesn’t dry quickly when wet.

Wear protective clothing to keep you cool. Image: Sea to Summit

3. Insect Protection

Camping close to a body of water means you don’t have to walk as far for quick dip – though it also brings you closer to the breeding ground for biting insects such as mosquitos and midges. The summer months are prime producing times for mosquitos, and they do so in water. With this in mind, put some distance between the water and your campsite.

Aside from mozzies and midges, flies can be a huge pain while cooking or relaxing outdoors. A quality head net will help to prevent you from losing your mind, or a screen room provides a peaceful, ventilated space.

Lastly, DEET or citronella are reliable, safe solutions to the swarms and stings. Alternatively, Thermacell mozzie repellers work well too.

Mozzies will be breeding near water in warm weather, so camp further away from water. Image: Coleman

4. Remove the Tent Fly

If your tent is constructed from synthetic material, it will become stuffy in warm weather. This is because it is not as breathable as a natural fibre, like cotton.

If you are certain rain isn’t on the cards, sleep with the fly off your tent to allow maximum airflow throughout. This will cool down the internal temperature and prevent the air from becoming stale.

An alternative is to camp with a canvas tent. The combination of synthetic and natural fibres allow for better breathability in warm weather.

If your tent and the weather allows, sleeping without the fly will add more air flow. Image: Oztent

5. Don’t Forget Electrolytes!

It’s common knowledge to stay hydrated during warmer weather, though it’s easy to forget to replenish your electrolytes. A loss of electrolytes can lead to dehydration and other more serious conditions. To avoid this, keep some hydration powder handy in your camp kitchen or hiking pack.

Be aware too that it is possible to drink too much water! This can result in ‘hyponatremia’, which is when there is either too much water or not enough sodium in your blood. Either way, watching your sodium and water levels is an important consideration during those summer escapades.

Some are even designed to be frozen and eaten as icy poles – so you can simply swap them in place of Zooper Doopers!

Carry and drink more water in warm conditions. Image: Sea to Summit

6. Freeze Your Food

…so your icebox or fridge doesn’t have to work as hard!

Pre-freeze you meals in advance before your camping trip. Not only will this save you time and effort at dinnertime, but it will also help relieve some of the strain from your fridge or icebox; in summer, they’ll be naturally battling against a higher ambient temperature.

For more tips on how to reduce energy use in your 12V fridge, check out Snowys’ blog writer Aaron Schubert’s article. Plus, if you’re looking to keep ice for longer in your icebox, these tips are helpful too.

A quality esky, icebox or fridge will make a world of difference. Image: Coleman

7. Bring Your Own Shade

Shade is not always available at the campsite, so be sure to bring the awning poles for your tent and set up some of your own. If your tent doesn’t feature an awning large enough, throw in a gazebo for extra coverage – or a tarp set up or compact fly as lighter options.

Having the option to set up your awning will add versatility and shade. Image: OZtrail

8. Cooling Towels or Bandanas

A super simple way to keep cool when kicking about outdoors in the summer is a cooling towel or neck tie.

Simply wet the towel and hang it around your neck. The water will evaporate slowly over time, cooling you down in the process. Another option is to first chill them in the fridge or Esky.

A portable fan will add fresh air flow on a still night. Image: Coleman

9. Circular Airflow in Your Shelter

On a hot, stagnant night, there often isn’t any airflow throughout your shelter. This can have it borderline impossible to achieve some decent shut-eye.

If you can’t catch a cool breeze – make one yourself.

Bring along a portable camping fan to set up in your tent or caravan, and open up any windows and doors. Leave the screens in place to create a circular airflow.

Wearing a hat will also keep you cooler at the campsite. Image: Oztent

10. A Hat and Sunscreen (Obviously)

Aside from protection from harmful UV rays, a broad brim hat also does wonders for keeping your head and shoulders cooler. Chuck one on when setting up and packing down your campsite, along with long-sleeved clothing, sunscreen, and sunglasses. Each are no-brainers during any outdoor activities.

Ben and Lauren chat more on how to keep cool while camping in the warmer weather on the Snowys Camping Show podcast.

What are your best summer camping tips? Let us know in the comments below.

The post Top 10 Tips for Camping in Summer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Before we begin, it’s important to remember that every kid and every family is different – so the tips mentioned in this blog may not work for everyone. Some of you may have already been through the camping stage with kids under five and have had different experiences. If this is true, comment your ‘dos’ and ‘dont’s’ in the comments below – we’d love to hear them!

Ben and Lauren also discuss camping with kids on the Snowys Camping Show:

Camping with children can be one of the most rewarding and memorable experiences. Image: Zempire

Travel Short Distances and Take Regular Breaks

Most kids don’t like to sit still in a car for hours on end. Yes, books, music, drawing, and iPads can help entertain them – but the younger they are the less help they are. We’ve found the best method of travelling is to break the trip up into short sections of no more than two hours.

If your kids are still having multiple sleeps a day try and cover the most distance while they’re asleep. Older kids will appreciate a good break at a roadside playground, so factor these into your planned route. If longer car expeditions are new to your family, it’s also a good idea to plan ahead by searching for any day trips on the way to your destination, so that you can find a suitable campground or park for a short break.

Two hours on the road, and 30 minutes to an hour break is a loose rule to adopt. Sure, we cover fewer kilometres in a day – but as we get older, we enjoy the rest. It’s important for cutting down on driver fatigue too.

Listen to Audiobooks

Downloading audiobooks is a fantastic idea for a long car trip. Many libraries offer free e-books which you can borrow before you leave. There’s also the option of streaming apps like Stan and Netflix, which allow you to download and view offline without the use of data.

These are a popular option for a rainy day when there’s not much else to do. I’d recommend using earphones, as it may mean less arguing over what to watch – and should focus the children’s attention while you get a break too!

Break a long drive up into smaller, more manageable sections. Or, if you’re feeling a bit tired, let the baby drive! Image: Xan Holyoak

Caravan Parks are a Good Place to Start

When it comes to your first trip away, there’s nothing wrong with a caravan park if you don’t want to start with a drop-pit loo experience. Most will have a playground and a pool, which is a social hub for both parents and youngsters.

A good camp kitchen is also a bonus if you’d rather not cook at your campsite, or you just crave some adult conversation to maintain your sanity over a glass of something strong!

Familiarise Them with Each Site

No matter how hard you try, you can’t keep an eye on them all the time. A quick chat in the car on arrival can help everyone’s anxiety levels. Walk around the campsite as soon as you’re set up. This way, everyone is familiar with the place, and where everything is.

Explain the Park Rules

Caravan parks will always have a few rules, so ensure that you discuss these and make sure everyone understands any no-go zones and where they should and shouldn’t play. If you’re camping in the great outdoors, set a few physical boundaries and point out any dangerous areas to be wary of.

Two hours on the road, and 30 minutes to an hour break is a loose rule to adopt. Image: Xan Holyoak

Establish Where Basecamp Is

When your kids go off with their new friends, check that they know how to get back to camp before they head off. If you’ve got a site number, make sure you tell them. If not, ensuring that they know what kind of car, tent, or van you’re in makes their return much easier when they ask someone for help.

Plan Meals and Snacks

Pack plenty of water and healthy snacks that are easy for kids to eat in the car. These could include carrot sticks, trail mix, popcorn, dried fruit, muesli bars, yoghurt pouches, and fruit.

I would recommend buying a double insulated bottle for each family member. You can refill your bottles using tap water or with a 10-litre water container from a supermarket.

Before doing a grocery shop, write down a list of snacks and meal ideas. Make sure the meals are quick and easy, as this will save room in your fridge and also reduce wastage.

Pack plenty of water and healthy snacks. Image: Amie Duncan

Simple Meal Ideas

Breakfast:

• Cereal and milk (Coconut + Cranberry Weetbix blends are favourites. Chop up some banana and strawberries to throw on top)
• Yoghurt and fruit, and/or muesli (yoghurt pouches are a great healthy option for kids, and can also be used as snacks for the drive)

Lunch:

• Wholemeal sandwiches or wraps (peanut butter and honey, vegemite and cheese, BBQ chicken anda avocado, etc.)

Dinner:

• Ravioli (add pesto or tomato-based premade pasta sauces)
• Wholemeal rolls or wraps (add steak, chicken, falafels, or sausage, etc. – plus salad and cheese)

Snacks:

• Carrot and cucumber sticks, dips, breadsticks, nuts and trail mix, rice crackers, plain popcorn, individually wrapped cheese, dried fruits, muesli bars, yoghurt pouches, and fruit (grapes, apples, and bananas are great).

Also, don’t forget to pack plenty of water.

Expect the Unexpected

If you get stuck on an isolated 4WD track in the blistering sun, it can be really hard to find enough shade to keep your little ones cool. Always make sure that you have sunblock, water, hats, and a shelter (such as a quick-shade, car awning, or umbrella).

Or, if you’re stuck for so long that it becomes dark and cold, then you’ll want to make sure you have warm clothes, blankets, and closed shoes.

Do your research and find the perfect car seat. Image: Amie Duncan

Invest in a Comfy Car Seat

Young kids don’t enjoy sitting still for long, let alone being strapped in! If you plan on spending lots of time travelling in the car, do your research and find the perfect car seat. You want your kids to be comfy enough to fall asleep if they need to.

Big, Easy-to-Pitch Tents are Key

There is nothing worse than being stuck at camp in cold, wet weather, and not having the space to keep the kids entertained! With the amount of stuff you end up bringing for the kids, you need ample space to store and organise it (so you don’t keep tripping over everything)!

Let’s face it, roughing it in remote locations tends to slow down a bit when the kids come along. Rugged, out-of-the-way locations are replaced by caravan parks with jumping pillows, pools, and playgrounds. It’s nice to maintain a bit of privacy by having a large tent, so you can get changed or have a space to chill out.

Kids get to learn about and experience things when camping that they just can’t at home or in the classroom. Image: Emma McPherson

Invest in a Porta Potti

Once the kids start toilet training, having your own toilet becomes a huge advantage. Running across the campground with your three-year-old with a crowning ‘number two’ isn’t adding to the enjoyment of your camping trip!

The convenience of having a portable chemical toilet around the side of your tent can’t be overestimated. Toilet training can be an extremely difficult process. A Porta Potti can change this. The novelty of using a new, funny-looking toilet can mean your toddler wants to go every hour or so.

Glow Stick Night Lights

This can help if your little one wakes up in the middle of the night. They can find their toys, blanky, or water bottle, and get themselves back to sleep without calling for you.

Not only are glow sticks fun and something for the kids to play with when it gets dark, but hanging a couple in the tent above their heads gives them enough light to see if they need to without keeping them awake.

Swags are the perfect bedding option for kids. Image: Barry Peters

Swags – The Perfect Bed for Kids

One of the most frequent questions we get asked at Snowys is what bedding we recommend for young kids.

An Oztrail Biker Swag is compact in size, and just rolls in the tent without the hoops and poles.

Bedding can be rolled up inside, keeping set-up time quick and simple. During the day, just pull the canvas right up so your child can run and jump around without getting their bedding dirty. If it’s really cold at night, they’ll sleep with the canvas pulled right up to trap in as much warmth as possible.

Then there are the Coleman Hybrid Hooded sleeping bags, rated from -5 to 5 degrees. Always choose a bag that’s warmer than you think you’ll need.

If your kids are still quite small, fold the sleeping bag in half so they don’t wiggle down too far. This puts more padding and insulation underneath and makes their bed cosier.

Slip, Slop, Slap and Cover Up

We’ve all heard it, but it’s easy to get complacent, especially about re-applying sunscreen. Ensure the sunscreen is broad-spectrum (blocks both UV-A and UV-B), sunglasses are good quality, and the hat has a broad brim.

Loose fitting, lightweight, long-sleeve tops, long pants, and shoes protect them from sunburn. They also help avoid insect bites and are better protection against snakes.

Slip, slop, slap! Image: Amie Duncan

Drink, Drink, Drink

Provide your kids with drink bottles that they can carry easily, maybe on a lanyard or belt. Let them decorate it with stickers to personalise it, and remind them to top it up regularly.

Take Note of the Geography

Before your kids go exploring, ensure there are no unforeseen hazards. Cliffs, water, and old mine shafts can be especially dangerous, so be aware.

Stay Vigilant

Don’t let kids, especially young ones, wander too far from camp. In some environments, every direction looks the same, especially in desert or forest areas.

As a good rule of thumb, ensure the campsite is always in view.

Be Aware of Area-Specific Hazards

Some areas have their own specific hazards. As well as disguised dingo traps (like some found at Dog Fence), another hazard to be aware of is bait aid for foxes, dingoes, and feral cats. All these precautions are simple and part of the brilliant learning that comes from time out in the bush.

Keep an eye out for dingoes. Image: Barry Peters

Use a UHF Radio

Handheld UHF radios are now quite inexpensive, so give one to your kids – they’ll love it!

Check-in with them regularly, and carry one yourself to monitor communication. This will enable them to feel quite adventurous, but with the knowledge that they are in contact.

Just remember, kids should not be scared – just prepared!

The Kids Will Get Dirty!

Knowing you’ll cope when the kids get dirty is a great start – just grab a stash of darker clothing and don’t worry about it! Cleanliness is the last thing you need to stress about when the kids are happy.

If you think you’ll need to do laundry when on the road, pack some detergent, and make sure you have some gold coins for the machine and pegs for the clothesline. Get in early to do your laundry so that you can have the load hung out. This also means that you can enjoy the rest of the day too.

An op-shop is a good place to select a camping wardrobe. It’s also a treasure trove of inexpensive toys and books to take. Plus, if you think you’ll go to town or out to dinner, you can always pack some ‘good clothes’ if you feel that you need to.

Let’s face it – the kids WILL get dirty! Image: Emma McPherson

Bring Toys

Allow the kids to bring some small toys that are suitable for playing with around the camp. Kids can play in the dirt with cars, trucks and action figures for hours on end. Provide a tarp that can be laid out for playing card games, board games, or with other toys requiring a cleaner area.

That said, kids at camp run around till lunch like lunatics – then disappear with other campers’ kids till dinner! They don’t always play like they do at home, so likely need only half of their usual gear. Some will spend hours building a sand mine with sticks, stones, and a mound of sand. You don’t always need to overload your vehicle with toys and gadgets, a couple for each child will be fine – and maybe their bikes, if you’ve got the space.

Go for Walks

This is especially good for younger kids. Point out interesting things around them, teach them the safety of keeping the campsite in view, let them use a UHF radio to talk to someone back at camp, and let them do a talk to the group about what they saw.

Take the kids for walks, and point out interesting things around them. Image: Barry Peters

Watch Out for Animal Tracks

Help the kids to identify what animals are nearby:

• How many legs?
• How many toes?
• Where do the tracks lead?
• How far apart are the footsteps?
• How big might the animal be?

Have a bird and animal reference book handy to help identify the animal.

Be Animal Aware

Teach your kids to watch from a distance. While we don’t want to discourage the fascination kids have for the animals they see around them, it is important to ensure they understand that we are in their territory and they can become frightened by us. Some animals such as dingoes may be protecting their young and can attack if we get too close.

Look out for animal tracks! Image: Barry Peters

Get Them Involved

Kids love to help out! Try to include them in everything, from packing the car to setting up the tent. It may take twice as long but there won’t be anywhere near as much complaining from boredom.

Make sure they have defined responsibilities when setting up and breaking camp. This keeps them involved and gives you time for your tasks. Explain to kids why you do things a certain way so they can learn while they’re helping. Don’t forget to acknowledge their efforts so that they feel a sense of accomplishment and will happily help again next time.

If the kids are old enough too, get them to plan and make at least one meal for the family. Let them find a recipe, buy the ingredients, and prepare the meal. Perhaps even do a miniature ‘MasterChef’ by taking some photos/video while they explain what they are doing.

Take Photos

Young kids can take photos with the relatively cheap and automatic digital cameras available. Even an old phone with a built-in camera could be used.

Encourage them to take photos of things of interest, and later make a presentation on the computer. You will be amazed at the skills even very young children demonstrate with programs such as PowerPoint.

Take photos for the children to create a presentation with later on. Image: Emma McPherson

Fly Kites

Modern kites fold up into a very small space and are easy to carry. Ensure that they are used in a good, clear space to avoid having to untangle and retrieve a kite stuck high up in a tree!

Don’t Drain the Treats or Rewards Too Quickly!

Pack these separately, so that they’re not discovered earlier than you wish! Keep some up your sleeve in a hidden spot for when a reward or distraction is required, or maybe if you need one for yourself!

Family car games can help stave off boredom! Image: Xan Holyoak

On the Road: Family Car Games

The Alphabet Game

Objective:
Work through the alphabet from A-Z with each occupant in the car naming something from the topic to match their corresponding letter.

Method:
Begin by selecting a topic. Something as simple as having to name a type of animal, a capital city, a country or more in-depth topics such as names of fashion designers or a clothing range.

Next, take it in turns (generally clockwise) to name something from the mutually agreed topic in alphabetical order. For example, the chosen subject may be, name a country, which would generally begin with the first person (usually the driver in our situation) answering with Australia or Angola. The person next-in-line would then respond with something like Botswana or Brazil, then the third with Canada or Cambodia and so on.

Rules:
The Alphabet Game sounds relatively simple; however, when you add some weird and wonderful topics into the mix, it does become a little tricky and is always good for a laugh. Further still, if you include a time limit (e.g. ten seconds), it elevates the challenge and creates further entertainment. Watch out for geographic slips too – sometimes you can catch a player out when they incorrectly answer with a city instead of a country!

If you’re nowhere near approaching traffic, you could choose themes that suit your environment. Image: Xan Holyoak

First to Find

Objective:
To earn the most points or rewards by being the first to find the nominated object.

Method:
Each person appoints an item which all occupants must look for along the way. The driver starts the ball rolling, eg. I would determine that everyone, including myself, finds a green Volkswagen beetle.

The next person in line could suggest that we all find a blue tractor but include the specification for it to be driving along the road, the third could be a fishing boat, towed or stationary (a tough find for those landlocked Outback journeys). Once a person finds one of the nominated objects along the trip, they receive a point or reward. The person who initially suggested the located object then chooses a new item to find, and the game continues.

Rules:
There are no defined rules for this game, and only your imagination limits you. You can have this game continue for days, sometimes even weeks, where just minutes from home, someone will shout out-of-the-blue, ‘look! There’s that pink stretch hummer filling up at the petrol station!’

This is a great game to stave off boredom and can be played wherever you go. So, if you’re nowhere near approaching traffic, you could choose themes that suit your environment: ‘first to find… a kangaroo, a wedge-tailed eagle or its nest, a wombat hole, a sign…?’

‘Pick a Colour or Company’ is not a game to play when you are off the beaten track. Image: Xan Holyoak

Pick a Colour or Company

Play this game at any time, but it does require approaching traffic – so perhaps save it for highways, motorways, or the industrial areas skirting the city outers.

Objective:
The race is on to accumulate the highest number in a set timeframe.

Method:
Each person chooses a vehicle colour or car company, then counts how many cars they see on the road in that colour or by that particular manufacturer, within the set time or distance. For example, the driver may pick the colour blue and suggest that they will see more blue cars over the next hour than any other colour.

Alternatively, the driver may suggest that there will be more Toyotas on the road before entering the next town. It requires a bit more attention and vehicle knowledge, but it’s a fun way to learn about the makes, models, and emblems of car manufacturers.

Rules:
Place parameters around colours, so that no one is allowed to choose the most common shades of white, black and red. For added interest, you could include types of paint finish, e.g. metallic, pearl, etc.

This game is not one to play when you are off the beaten track. However, it is a great way to keep everyone alert and interested in what is up ahead.

‘Tootie Frootie’ is a game where parents can choose to be involved or have a break. Image: Kevin Laminto

Tootie Frootie

A game invented by kids for kids, and it’s one where parents can choose to be involved or have a break and indulge in their own quiet time.

Objective:
Initially, this game was a spin-off from Pick a Colour or Company, with the competition set on who can create the most colourful fruit salad within a specified timeframe, i.e. counting each winning point.

Method:
Determined by the colour, each vehicle becomes a type of fruit or an ingredient within the bowl of fruit salad. Feel free to get creative and use your interpretations based upon your favourite fruits, or the kid’s favourites.

Here are some suggestions to kick you off:

• a purple vehicle becomes a grape
• orange is an orange
• yellow is a banana
• green is lime, and
• pink is a strawberry

When an ‘approved’ coloured car is spotted, the person calls out the name of the fruit and if first, they earn a point. If there are multiple simultaneous calls over the same car, thus a piece of fruit, the players either each receive points or the round becomes void.

Rules:
Similar to the previous game, we omit the most popular colours of white, black, and red. For this game, we also ‘ban’ silver-coloured cars for the same reason.

These family-friendly games are not only a great way to stave off boredom, but they also ensure that the family who plays together, stays together. And if you need a few extra supplies for your trip, check out our range of kids gear to suit your favourite little people.

Short or long drives, car games are a great way to entertain the kids without devices. Image: Xan Holyoak

Camping with Kids: An Insight From Ben

Camping used to be simple. A two man tent, a couple of bags with essentials, a fridge with some food and beer, cooking gear, two seats, and a table.

We’d sometimes drive as far as the 4WD track would let us, before packing our rucksacks and walking the rest of the way to some far-out location away from anything remotely civil.

What Changed?

Our beautiful daughter came into the world.

‘That’s okay. We’ve lost a bit of space on the back seat for a child restraint and box full of toys, and we need more space to sleep. Plus more room for food and drink. But we’re still going camping. I’ll just have to embrace some changes – just not push as far.’

So, we upgraded to a family dome tent, another camp mat, and a sleeping bag. Plus, we added an icebox to our kit.

…Then we realised we need to provide more shade to make things comfortable during the day, and if everyone is going to enjoy camping we need more seats. AND to upgrade the bush toilet.

So, we added a 4WD awning, another camp chair, and a toilet seat.

As your family grows, your car, tent, and kit will grow too! Image: Robyn Jay, Flickr

…Then our family grew again

Three years on, and our family becomes four with the birth of our second daughter.

Now we’ve lost all the back seat space to child restraints and toys, toys, toys! We need to take the port-a-cot, more food, more water, another bag of clothes, and more facilities to store rubbish.

The boot is full and it’s taking a long time to tie everything securely onto the roof rack!

So we added a rooftop bag. Surely that’s enough? We may need to add another camp chair in the not-too-distant future, but I can accommodate for that on the roof.

Turns out young kids don’t like creepy crawlies either, and I’ve avoided the topic of my wife being attacked by mosquitoes every evening for far too long now.

I must embrace change. So, we added a mesh room that clips in under our 4WD awning.

Our Current Set-Up

Now, by the time I’ve set up a family tent, three mats, and a port-a-cot, plus dug bush toilet, checked the bush toilet for stability, extended the 4WD awning, attached the screen room, set up the camp table and chairs, created a camp kitchen, and conducted a full pest inspection to ensure we are as free as we can be from anything resembling an insect – I’m well and truly ready for a beer.

What used to be a 15-20-minute set-up that took equally as long to pack, is now an hour-long set-up that takes an entire day to prepare for!

That said, I wouldn’t have it any other way. Watching kids explore their surroundings, observe the resident sleepy lizard, do some stargazing, and wake up to the sound of birds are some of the best things in the world.

…And it’s not like I’m in a rush to set things up anyway.

A school holiday trip is fun, challenging at times, and rewarding! Image: Emma McPherson

Got teenagers?! That’s a whole new ball game. Ben and Lauren discuss camping with teenagers on the Snowys Camping Show:

Any tips we missed? Comment below!

The post Camping with Young Kids appeared first on Snowys Blog.

One small but important consideration is the gear we need, and how we can ensure it performs during our time away. The frustrating catch is that we spend large amounts of hard-earned money on products that, in the pursuit of our adventures, can at some point break or become damaged. However, this is when the creative fun begins!

Having a toolkit is a pretty handy addition to any setup, be that in your hiking pack, the storage shed, or your car boot.

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies 

Why is a Toolkit Important?

These toolkits are invaluable for the next time you’re faced with a camping obstacle that needs to be overcome – whether it be trying to peg into solid ground, getting a fire going in wet and windy conditions, or fixing something that has snapped, ripped, leaked, or punctured. Toolkits can save you lots of money, as it changes your approach; you can find a creative solution with what’s in your toolbox, which can save you from reaching for your credit card.

Whether you’re kilometres from home, at your favourite campsite, or just back after a memorable trip, here is a range of items you should consider keeping in your toolkit. This will ensure you can get back to doing what you love with the gear you love, for a lot less than if you were to replace it.

Toolbox or Bag?

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Whilst it’s easy to get carried away here, aim small because you don’t want this to consume valuable space which can be taken up by other gear.

Solid and durable tool boxes work great for vehicle camping, whereas soft bags like the Blacksmith Camping Supplies tool bag and or Sea to Summit pouch are fantastic for lighter-weight adventures.

A well thought out toolkit can save you plenty of cash and will help make sure your trip runs smoothly. Image: Ben Trewen

Consumables

Once you’ve decided on the size of your tool box or bag, you can then start working on what consumables you might want.

Duct Tape

Capable of many uses, duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be repaired or rejoined. Covering holes and repairing tears are just some of its many purposes.

Cable Ties

Like duct tape, cable ties can be used to re-attach or hold things together. Organising cables, ropes or hoses, closing opened food packets, locking tubs or bags, and mending broken hooks and loops on a tent – to name only a few uses.

Lubricant

It might be a screw that has gone tight, a pin that won’t release, or a pole that can’t extend. Having a lubricant spray like WD-40 available will ensure you can get out of sticky situations easily.

Glue/Sealer

Your shoe sole might be coming apart, your tent seam might be leaking, or the sleeping pad valve may be seeping air. Fixing tasks like these and many others requires a strong, adhesive, and fast drying glue to get the job done.

Having a solid set of consumables in your kit will make small repairs easy. Image: Ben Trewen

Repair Tape

A form of glorified duct tape, repair tape is transparent, very adhesive, and perfect for mending precious items of gear. It might be a tear in your tent fly, a rip in your rain jacket, or a slit in your hiking pack. Repair tape is designed to bring your gear back to life whilst still looking somewhat new or at least undamaged.

Sewing Kit

If repair tape can’t fix the rip in your rain jacket, maybe sewing it up can. Whether the seam in your pants gives way, the buttons on your waistband pops or the visor on your hat un-ravels, having a sewing repair kit can take care of all these basic sewing jobs. It can also prevent issues from becoming worse.

Paracord

Easy to source, super strong to use, and small enough to carry, paracord is fantastic for all kinds of use. It can be used to reinforce your tent, secure your tarp, hang something from a tree, create a clothesline, tow something to your camp, or secure something so it doesn’t budge. The options with this versatile rope are endless.

Hexamine Tablets

Hexamine tablets burn smokeless-ly, don’t liquify, and leave no trace of burning. They have a high-energy density, making them fantastic as either an emergency stove or as a supercharged fire-lighter.

Duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be re-joined. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies

Tools

The next lot of items to consider are your tools. It’s important to remember that the goal is to include multi-purpose gear which can be used across a range of applications. Here’s what makes a good list:

Swiss Army Knife or Multi-Tool

When it comes to multi-purposeful tools, having a multi-tool on hand like the Leatherman Surge makes perfect sense. With 21 tools and a sturdy feel in the hand, it’s a good choice when tackling any adventure. There aren’t many unique tasks that this tool can’t play a solving role in.

The Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

It’s like opening Christmas presents, as you explore all the different functions this little beauty can perform. Twenty-five altogether, in a compact 9cm body that weighs in at just 155gm. The size and weight are the winning factors for undertaking activities such as bushwalking, where it’s usually slipped into the pocket of a pair of shorts or the outside pocket of a pack. Use a lanyard to carry it in pockets, and attach that to a belt too. That way, you can’t lose the knife but can quickly retrieve it for use. The lanyard can also be easily attached to deck-lines on a kayak, for easy access.

The Leatherman Multi-Tool

A multi-tool doesn’t have as many blades or functions as a Swiss Army Knife, but nevertheless is a very functional and effective tool. Having it available on a belt all the time makes it easy to quickly and efficiently repair minor fencing issues, cut wire tangled in equipment, and unscrew things – all without ready-access to a comprehensive toolbox. There is the facility to attach a lanyard to this also – but at 13cm, it is longer than the Handyman, and heavier at 266gm too.

What is a Multi-Tool?

A multi-tool is a single piece of camping and hiking equipment that has numerous functions. It’s cleverly built around a pair of compact stainless steel pliers, with other pullout tools neatly incorporated into the design:

• The pliers are either regular pliers or needle-nose pliers that are handy for tightening or loosening bolts, pulling out small nails, and bending wires. The better quality multi-tool pliers also have built-in wire cutting and wire stripping functions.
• Almost every multitool has at least one sharp knife for cutting, with a safe, foldaway blade. A second serrated knife, wood saw, or metal saw are also available on selected brands.
• For the handy bushman in you, another common multi-tool component is the screwdriver. Usually you’ll have both flat and Phillips head options – an important tool for those ‘fix it’ sessions on the road.
• Some multi-tools also contain a file suitable for filing down timber or metal. Plus if you ever need to measure a short distance there’s often a ruler incorporated into the extended length of your multi-tool.
• And where would you be without scissors to cut thin twine, fishing line, fingernails, material, paper, and plastic? Neatly cutting open packets of food rather than ripping them with your teeth – it’s so much easier when you’ve got your handy multi-tool.
• Importantly, camp cooking and camp entertainment always benefit from your multi-tool’s can and bottle openers, respectively.
• Some multi-tools even include an awl (or hole punch) for putting holes in tough materials like leather or thick canvas, which is useful – we just don’t know when!

How to Choose Your Multitool

Choosing the right multi-tool is a balance between:

1. Finding a tool with the functions you need
2. How compact and lightweight the tool needs to be
3. Durability for years of use
4. How safe they are to use as part of a multi-tool, and of course,
5. How much you’re willing to spend

Multi-tools can be an expensive purchase for young campers and, unfortunately, they’re also easy to lose. Therefore you need to weigh up the return-on-investment for your multi-tool.

Before you rush out and buy a multi-tool, write down a list of what you want your multi-tool to do. Sometimes the higher number of functions is not as important as making sure you’ve got the right tool for your intended activities.

On the flipside, you may want a multi-tool that does everything so that you’re prepared for those just-in-case moments. Find out exactly what you need and want before you purchase your new multi-tool.

What to Look For in a Multi-Tool

• Safety First

If you’re going to be applying pressure when you use the individual tools, in particular the blade, look to buy a multi-tool with a tool and/or blade-only locking mechanism. This will lock the blade safely in place so it won’t close without you releasing it.

• Weight and Function

Second, consider the weight of the tool and how you’ll attach it to you or your gear. Where are you going to keep your multi-tool so it’s handy to grab when you’re on the road, camping or hiking?

If it’s a small multi-tool, a simple belt clip or lanyard ring will work to attach it to you or your backpack.

However if your multi-tool is larger and heavier, then it should be sold with a protective pouch made of durable material, such as leather or nylon, to attach to your belt.

If you’re going to keep your multi-tool in the glove box and don’t require a lightweight product, you may select a heavier multi-tool with more functions and greater strength.

The weight and ‘hand feel’ of your multi-tool is also important. Sometimes the trade-off for manufacturers is decreasing the comfort of the handle. The more tools added to the design, the more likely the handle to grasp the tool is more cumbersome.

• Steel Strength

Third, for strength and rust-resistance, the type of stainless steel used is important. A higher price tag for a multitool, in many cases, relates to the better quality stainless steel it’s made out of. High quality stainless steel is extremely strong and resistant to corrosion (rust), however some lower quality stainless steels can occasionally succumb to the effects of salt and moisture, as well as weaken in structure.

• Functions

Lastly, look for components of a multi-tool that do more than one thing. For example, the bottle opener arm may also be a flat head screwdriver or the can opener may also be a twine cutter. This versatility lends itself to a more compact multi-tool design.

It’s like opening Christmas presents! Image: Victorinox

Swiss Army Knife Vs Multi-Tools: Pros and Cons

Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

Pros

• Small and lightweight
• Versatile
• Perfect for bushwalking and activities where weight is a criteria

Cons

• Lacks robust pliers

Leatherman Multi-Tool

Pros

• Versatile
• Perfect for activities where a more robust tool is needed, particularly the pliers

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Harder to pull out the tools you need

Torch

While we’re likely to have a headlamp or lantern amongst our gear, a multi-purpose lighting back-up is never a bad thing.

Don’t waste valuable space and weight by selecting multi-purpose tools. Image: Ben Trewen

Mallet

When it comes to camping and hiking, the value of mallets surely speaks for themselves. While the pressure of your foot or the weight of a rock can often do the job, having a heavy-duty mallet on hand to put all your pegs into the ground is much easier.

The beauty of a mallet is that the peg puller at the end of the handle offers just as much help when its time to pack down and pull all the pegs out of the ground. If you’re more of the lightweight hiker type, you could consider a lightweight mallet.

Tri-Fold Shovel

Whether you’re adjusting the wood on the fire, digging up coals for your camp oven or clearing space for the bowels to open up, having a shovel is incredibly handy. Many choose to opt for adding a long-handled option to their gear kit, however you could get away with a simple tri-fold shovel in my toolbox. It’s small and compact but still gets the job done.

Hatchet

Not critical, but very useful, especially during fire season. Hatchets are great for chipping away at kindling, clearing vegetation at campsites and cutting down wood to fit. They’re also multi-purpose as you can use the other end of the head as a hammer for putting pegs into the ground.

Butane Gun

Sure, you can just use matches, but having a butane gun on hand will help to light a fire in testing conditions. Whether you’re lacking tinder or struggling with wet or windy conditions, having a steady flame can be beneficial. Butane refills are very cheap and the convenience is absolutely worth it.

Water Tank Spanner

Again, not critical but very useful – especially if you plan to carry water in reusable tanks. Having a tool to ensure your lids and bungs are screwed on tight and that your taps can be removed for transit may not seem that valuable… until your water tanks start leaking.

Spare Parts

Lastly, are the spare parts. While this list can quickly become endless, there are some common parts that are regularly sought after. Adopt this for whatever gear you carry, as you need. Don’t be afraid to add items after you’ve learnt from your mistakes… it can take breaking four buckles on a hiking pack before you start carrying a spare!

Check that you’ve added spare parts to your kit in case you get caught out mid-adventure. Image: Ben Trewen

Tent Pole Splint

The unfortunate reality is that no tentpole is indestructible and once it becomes damaged, it’s a pain to manage. Having a sleeve handy makes repairing a crack or break easy. Sleeves are usually included as a spare with your tent. Just slip it over the damage, then reinforce with your duct tape or cable ties as needed. It’s a much sturdier option than a taped pole that doesn’t have adequate support.

Spare Bungs

Be it for your esky or your water tank, having leaking fluid going everywhere is the worst! Spend a couple of dollars to ensure you’re covered just in case you lose or break your bung.

Stove Service Kit: O-Rings, Knobs, Adapters

Gas Stoves can often be fidgety pieces of gear, complete with many different parts that often need maintaining. With hiking stoves, it’s relatively easy as many come with pre-assembled repair kits.

Camping stoves are a bit trickier. A great way to try and stay on top of things is to carry correct-sized rubber O-rings for your seals, stove knobs, and gas hose adapters for use between 3/8 to POL to BOM fittings.

It never hurts to also read the manufacturer instructions, in case they make any recommendations on parts as well.

Spare Pegs

If you’ve been camping for a while, you’ll know that broken, misplaced, or un-returned tent pegs are a frequent occurrence. Having a few extras on hand can never hurt. It’s pretty easy to get your hands on heavy-duty steel pegs or lightweight alloy pegs.

Repair Buckle

While many wouldn’t even think of buckles breaking, the inconvenience when they do can be pretty frustrating. Whether it be in your tent, backpack, or awning – buckles play a part in the setting up of many pieces of gear.

All it takes is for that misplaced footstep along with some pressure – and the next thing you know, the buckle is crushed!

Do you have anything else you take along in your toolkit when you head out on an adventure? Let us know in the comments. 

The post How to Build a Camping Toolkit appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We see you. We hear you.

As heard in Episodes 65 and 66 of the Snowys Camping Show, your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions in the second and final part of our Campsite Q&A’s blog series.

Your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions. Image: Coleman

Gear and Maintenance

Essentials for Beach Camping, and Tips for Keeping the Sand out of the Swag / Tent?

To first address sand, Ben and Lauren recommend a mesh ground sheet which, while expensive, is worth the investment. Double-layered, the mesh allows for any sand on top to fall through without resurfacing, ensuring a sand-free environment. These ground sheets were initially invented as portable helipads, designed to be positioned on loose desert surfaces to prevent sand from blowing and flicking upwards as the helicopter lands. OZtrail manufacture a less expensive model, which still adequately serves the same purpose.

Lauren also recommends EVA foam floor mats at the doorway, and a dustpan and brush to sweep away sand from legs and feet. A Muk Mat – a large, well-finished slab of Astro Turf – works wonders in sandy, beachy environments too. Lauren also suggests washing away the grit and debris in a tub of water, large enough for someone to stand in. Ultimately, allocating a ‘zone’ nearby your setup to clean away sand before entering the living area is the suggested approach. Sand in a tent and living space is often only a problem if we allow for it to build up – so control it from the beginning! 

Broadly speaking, beach camping also requires some sort of wind management. That said, setting up a wind break in sandy environments can encourage sand to whip upwards in a whirlwind. To control this, Ben and Lauren recommend choosing tents with fine mesh, and sealing windows and openings during the day to prevent sand from making its way into bedding.

Lastly, adequate sand pegs and guy ropes are paramount when beach camping, as well as trace springs for added stability in windier conditions.

Securing Food from Pests?

…Try literally anything.

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren detail how to manage critters and pests at the campsite.

Ultimately, they recommend Tupperware that seals tight. Ben is content with leaving unopened food packets in a tub with the lid sitting on top. On the other hand, opened packets should be kept in an airtight container to prevent ants from making their way in.  

In Ep53 – Kangaroo Island, Lauren describes the relentless possum raids as a result of leaving her doors open at night. Generally though, she manages well by keeping her food in storage draws under the bed and recommends solid plastic tubs. Even for a grain of rice, mice will chew through soft silicon and thin plastics, so be aware of the quality of your storage options too. Again, Ben can advocate for this in Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap, where he resorts to creating a trash contraption mouse trap to catch a critter than chewed its way into his 4WD!

For the unique nomads who hoped for more than just ‘use good storage containers’ – ever tried suspending your food from a tree using squat straps? Learn more about this in Ep57 and Ep96 on Weird and Wonderful Camping Gear!

Can you repair a sleeping mat if it leaks at the seams or valves – and if so, how?

Ben and Lauren have recorded a video that lives on the Snowys YouTube channel, elaborating on material relevant to this question – though not in detail.

Usually, only a leak via a seam or valve is guaranteed under warranty. This is because inconsistencies or fissures at these points are more than likely attributed to manufacturing faults. Ben and Lauren recommend getting in touch with the retailer of your defective sleeping mat to receive a warranty assessment.

While not the prettiest fix, Ben suggests Stormsure adhesive or seam grip glue to mend your mat DIY-style. Specifically, heavily smother the hole before spreading the glue at length along each side to create a seal. For an even stronger hold, apply the glue to a nylon ripstop-type material (from a place like Spotlight), as a foundation. This works particularly well with longer tears; Ben recommends incorporating fabric or gauze in and amongst the glue by placing a large strip over the top of the gash. When stretched, the fabric separates – but the seam grip covers it.

Personal camping essentials, upgrades, original gear, current gear, and reasons behind any alterations?

Before we unpack this question – yes, Ben. We get it. You love your coffee kit bag.

As much as this is true, Ben points out that he considers ‘personal camping essentials’ the items that mostly sit beneath the ‘hygiene’ and ‘medication’ umbrella. Lauren rarely washes her hair on a camping trip, instead relying on Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wash as both soap and body wash. Other essentials include her quality base layers and socks, sheep skins to drape over her camp chairs for warmth, Crocs (which she insists are the most bomb-proof, ideal footwear to slip on and off around the campsite), a head torch, and a bird book with binoculars to watch and learn of the pretty birdlife that often surrounds her on her travels.

On the other hand, Ben reveals the gear he’s replaced over the years. He now avoids rounder table lanterns and instead opts for 12V LED strips or hanging lights, having decided that they light his table setup more effectively. As well as lighting, Ben has reconsidered how he operates his stove, now opting for multi-fuel over gas. Unlike large, heavy gas bottles, multi-fuel systems are easy to transport and assemble, eliminating the need for hoses and other accessories. While it may take longer, Ben confirms that this is the trade-off he’s willing to sacrifice. His cast iron camp oven – whilst a favourite – is also soon to be replaced by one of spun steel for both weight and portability reasons. Lastly, he’s removed his awning from his 4WD. This was after deciding it was too tedious to set up and take down on trips where he was driving more frequently than he was pulling over. It now sits in his shed at home… and he doesn’t miss it!

Ben now avoids table lanterns and instead opts for 12V lighting. Image: Hard Korr

Lauren hears of new and improved gear through the grapevine from as often as monthly to even weekly. For this reason, her setup reflects constant evolution as opposed to a ‘before and after’ project. An example of this is her transition from a Waeco 45-litre fridge to a myCOOLMAN dual zone 85-litre fridge, after discovering more room in her van to store it. Now in the process of fitting out their camper van, she reflects on why she didn’t consider two drawer fridges to stack on top of one another – an arrangement she’s keen to progress to when the vehicle renovations are done. The drawer fridges she’s interested in are 10 centimetres wider than the current fridge, but are stackable and each capable of running as either a fridge or freezer.
Overall, settling on a sprinter van instead of a 4WD or caravan – as much as Lauren and her partner love it – has its limitations. Lacking features such as 4WD access or adequate clearance can sometimes be more significant issues than not, especially when she plans to go far beyond her backyard and get wild! As a result, Lauren finds herself wondering what she may opt for further down the line, and what differences it will pose regarding setup. Better or worse – at the end of the day, the grass will always seem greener.

Advice on Tent Security (and Storing Spare Keys)?

The simple answer is: don’t keep your keys in your tent.

With his minimalist setup, Ben has spent many camping trips probably appearing as one of the less wealthy campers at the campsite – which likely explains why he’s yet to be robbed! In some ways, locking everything away can suggest that you have something to steal.

An effortless solution is to not store valuables inside the tent, where Ben tends to only leave his bedding. While there’s always a chance, the likelihood that his sleeping bag will be stolen is relatively low, with fewer repercussions if it was over his wallet or phone.

As for Lauren, theft has never been on her radar. In her experience, there’s an unspoken rule in the camping community to not steal from other setups. Ben admits that National Park spaces are relatively theft-free, though some caravan parks in particular are more prone to it. This is often not as malicious as it is purely opportunistic; young, ratbag kids are usually just out for a thrill, looking to snatch up some loose change or something valuable. This is often the case in most areas alike.

Ultimately, the chance of theft at a campground depends on its location. To address any concerns you may have, simply lock your vehicle and avoid leaving loose change or valuables in exposed places. For instance: at night, Ben tends to store his car keys in the small internal tent pocket just above his head.

Gazebos – Necessary Additional Family Shelter, or Storage Space Waster?

The short answer? It depends on who you are, the storage space you have, and the nature of your desired setup.

For a more detailed response, Ben and Lauren cover relevant information extensively in Ep7 – Gear You Don’t Need for Camping and Ep59 – Shelters for Rainy Days.

What is Safer: to Keep Your Lithium Battery (Plugged Into Solar Panels and a Fridge) in a 6 x 4  Trailer, a Tent, or on a Blanket on the Ground?

If the battery is lithium, it’s generally safe either way.

On the other hand, other lead acid batteries (including sealed) emit hydrogen and generally don’t operate well in extreme temperatures, so best kept in a ventilated space. Keeping it by your fridge shouldn’t be a concern in this regard, as the fridge itself also requires adequate aeration due to its compressor.

Albeit, Ben and Lauren aren’t experts on batteries. Initially, they suggest using common sense; keeping a hot battery close beside you within a tent isn’t ideal! Those who are still unsure should note the warnings in the instruction manual of their respective power station (for instance, the Companion Lithium Rover), or talk to the experts (e.g. Battery World).

Items you Thought Would be Useless but Were Useful, and Vice-Versa?

For Ben, he never expected to need a paintbrush on a road trip – but has found it useful in sweeping away dust and debris from his car or tent interior, especially in outback travelling!

On the other hand, the few opportunities he’s found to use his awning don’t warrant transporting it about as often as he once did. For this reason, it now lives packed away in his shed indefinitely. As well as this, he’s allocated his ‘Grandpa Fork’ to the box of untouched tackle. The tool is simply a fork-like piece that attaches to the end of a stick, designed for toasting marshmallows. While Lauren thinks they’re a nifty invention, Ben would rather just use a stick…

For Lauren, her set of four collapsible tubs are the most unexpectedly delightful addition to her camp clobber. She uses them regularly, and plans to soon purchase another set.

As for the presumably great gadgets that have turned out to be sub-par, she keeps a large collection of items alike in her shed which simply haven’t suited her setup as much as she initially thought. At this stage, nothing in particular springs to mind – but keep an eye out on the Snowys Camping Show Facebook group while she sets this question aside to marinate…

Ben finds he doesn’t use his awning enough to warrant transporting it around as often as he does. Image: Darche

Camping, Caravanning, and 4WDing

Funniest Camp Fail?

… On par with Ben’s ‘green ant’ story, as told in Episode 44? Lauren may just match it.

There’s a place she and her family love to go, the track to which is recommended for 4WDs only – especially when wet. That said, Lauren claims her Sprinter van can tackle more than one may think… but in this instance, these were her famous last words.

Lauren and her family were due to meet with another two groups. Given the substantial room in her vehicle compared to others, she was transporting enough gear for six people – plus more to lessen the load for other families. This added significantly more weight to the van… which didn’t bode well on the track after recent rainfall. When they approached the track, it was a slurry of cold, grey mud. By the time they realised it wasn’t a good idea to proceed, it was too late to turn back!

Initially, they were hopeful… before the van began to slip and slide perilously in the sludge. Eventually, they were left steadfast in sticky mud, stranded in the middle of the Riverland. The sun had set; it was 9:30pm. Lauren directed the kids to toddle off into the inky blackness with a torch to find help, while she and her partner began the exhaustive process of attempting to nudge the van, stubbornly wedged in the thick mud.

After some time, their friend arrived, and together they discovered the root of the problem; the vehicle’s diff was lodged firmly into a large lump of clay. To first alleviate some of the weight, Lauren had the kids carrying camp clobber from the van to the campsite, piece by piece like a row of ants. Next, her partner stripped down to only his shorts and primely positioned himself well underneath the van. The track soon became a mucky mess of footprints as Lauren’s family gathered sticks, logs, and debris to dig away at the diff buried deep in the sludge.

Time moved fast – but the van remained resolute. By midnight, Lauren and her crew attempted one last tactic. After removing the wheel, they packed in the space underneath with sticks and bark, inserted the jack, and pushed as hard as they could while one of them took the driver’s seat. Eventually, Lauren and her family were a wholesome blend of filthy, relieved – and with a vehicle in motion!

For a camp fail equally as chaotic involving a snake, a floating tent, and a mass of green ants – check out Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap.

Practicality of Extended Overland Trips in an SUV/Wagon/Car, Versus the More Built-Out 4WDs/RVs/Camper Vans/Caravans?

The key consideration that distinguishes one from the other is preparation. Travelling in a 4WD, RV, or camping vehicle requires less given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup. With an SUV or smaller vehicle, space is more limited.

As much as it bodes well to first do your research before purchasing a more built-out camper van, don’t let your current wagon or car be a roadblock to hitting the road and seeing the sights. While it may not be wise to travel through the Bungle Bungles in a Sedan, there is still so much to see and do in the great outdoors without a 4WD setup.

Do Either of you Own a Camper Trailer or a Caravan? What are Your Hacks?

Ben and Lauren do not – but Snowys’ resident caravanning expert, Kevin, certainly does!

Kevin has frequently featured in episodes of the Snowys Camping Show, such as Caravan Water Tanks 101, Caravan Refrigeration, and Caravanning the Oodnadatta Track. Given how many caravanning hacks there are, Ben and Lauren suggest advising us of any specifics for Kevin to address from his fountain of knowledge.

Travelling in a 4WD requires less preparation given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup! Image: Darche

What are the essential spare items that Kev would take for extended caravan travelling, off-road?

We’ve addressed this in detail in Episode 68 with our caravanning expert, Kev.

While the list extends further, and excludes the various considerations and details depending on the off-road situation – Kev recommends the following as a guide:

• A standard toolkit
• Wheel bearings
• A hub seal
• Irrigation joiners, straights, and elbows etc. for the hoses and connectors beneath the van
• Two spare wheels, as well as plugs for any minor punctures
• Turn buckles and chains to secure broken springs and axels (this becomes complicated, and depends on the situation!)
• A roll of duct tape, insulation tape, and wire
• Replacement fuses to suit those existing in your car or caravan
• So much more!

Food

Favourite Meal to Cook When Camping / Meal Ideas?

Ben and Lauren elaborate on relevant information throughout both Ep2 – Tips for Keeping Camping Food Fresh, Ep13 – Camping on a Budget, and Ep27 – Camp Kitchen Essentials.

In addition to this specific content, Lauren confirms that her favourite camping food – especially in Winter –  is a cooked brekky. For her, nothing beats smoky bacon, eggs, and charred toast by the campfire coals first thing in the morning!

On the other hand, Ben tends to cook modified versions of the meals he eats at home. For example, when cooking a pasta at the campsite that would usually include fresh tomatoes, he’d add tinned instead.

Another winner for Ben is damper. A doughy, buttery, body-bolstering blend of simple and versatile – damper requires only staple ingredients, elevated even more with bits and pieces of sweet or savoury. By the same token, a jaffle iron is one of Ben’s favourite appliances at the campsite. As well as cooking mini dampers, Ben uses his iron by pressing dough into the moulds, filling it with either baked beans, chocolate, or other fillings of choice, and toasting to create little dough pouches for his kids to carry around camp.

In the meantime, she suggests preparing as much food in advance as possible. This includes pre-chopping vegetables, and pre-cooking meals to then vacuum-seal and re-heat in boiling water at the campsite. Storing pre-cooked rice and chopped vegetables such as onion, pumpkin, or carrots in vac-sealed bags also keeps food fresh and maintained.

In Lauren’s experience, meal-prepping for only herself and her partner versus her entire family are two very different processes. So again – watch this space for more content specific to this aspect of adventuring!

What are the recommended meal and preparation ideas for camping, specifically for stove cooking?

For a little while, Lauren has been keen to produce an episode purely centred around campsite meals. In it, she’d aim to cover meal planning, preparation, and cooking for camping.

In a previous episode with Dr. Kate Grarock, ‘Food for Adventure’, Ben and Lauren kept the content hiking-focused. Episodes alike include ‘Food for Hiking‘, as well as content that explores camp kitchen essentials and how to keep food fresh. Considering this, Lauren has identified the absence of an episode solely dedicated to recipes and meal ideas.

Fridges

Use-case tips on Dometic icebox sizes – including packing standard-sized items to assess how they fit, and how to subsequently determine a suitable size?

This has been an angle on iceboxes from which both Ben and Lauren have wanted to approach for a little while. In a previous podcast episode, ‘Fridges Vs Iceboxes’, they discuss the pros and cons of each and consequently which option is more suited to various setups.

For now, our gear gurus confirm that it depends on the purpose for which your icebox is being used; be that solely cooling, or in conjunction with a fridge. Granted, a YouTube video on our channel may be the perfect way to further elaborate on this question and demonstrate visually… so for the last time, watch this space!

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren discuss the pros and cons of both iceboxes and fridges. Image: Dometic

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

Will Snowys ever open a store in Victoria or Sydney?

Unfortunately, this isn’t on the radar. Ben says that Snowys aim to continue to focus on what they do well, as opposed to expanding and subsequently increasing the prices of products. That said – never say never!

Nonetheless, this isn’t a conversation Lauren and Ben are ultimately involved in, instead determined by a higher level of authority.

Do you two each have an Instagram account, so we can see your setups as well?

The short answer is: not really.

Why? Lauren’s answer for Ben is simple: he’s ‘lame’!

Ben’s explanation for his lack of internet sharing is a little more sentimental; when he’s on holiday, he unplugs almost entirely. Instead of watching the number of views rise on his Instagram stories, he watches the view of the sunrise instead. While some reach the end of a demanding day outdoors and choose to take the time to share photos with their family via WhatsApp, Ben watches the sun set instead. On his half-lap across the Northern Territory and Western Australia, Ben became so emersed in his surroundings that his wife would update his family for him!

Nonetheless, Ben and Lauren admit that they reference their own setups a lot throughout their Snowys podcasts and content. Those who listen to the Snowys Camping Show podcast have insight into Ben and Lauren’s identities in a work-based capacity, with little reference to their personal life.

Lauren has a personal Instagram account that she rarely uses, but has considered creating one that is more relevant to her camping life for public observation. Where she’ll continue to ponder the idea, Ben is certain that a personal account will be disappointing for his followers due to the simplicity of his setup!

More questions? Hit us up! Image: Sea to Summit

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 23, 30, 48, 65, 66, and 92 of the Snowys Camping Show to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 2) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The first thing you should consider is a groundsheet – sometimes also referred to as a footprint, ground tarp, or floor saver. Call them what you will, but regardless they’re a crucial piece of camping kit. For the sake of this blog, we’ll call them groundsheets.

Groundsheets exist to protect the floor of your tent against everything that nature throws at it – from the ground up! An insurance policy, if you will. You’re much better off financially to replace a groundsheet every so often than your entire Black Wolf Turbo or MSR Hubba Hubba!

They’re often not as cheap as you’d hope – but it certainly does soothe the frustration when faced with damage, in that you only need to replace the groundsheet as opposed to the entire tent or swag.

Groundsheets can do a whole lot more than just protecting the underside of your tent or swag. Image: Oztent

Benefits of a Groundsheet

Groundsheets also assist with waterproofing your tent or swag floor, act as a barrier in wet conditions, preserve the vegetation underneath your swag or tent, act as a wind or weather break, help to prevent condensation, and offer an emergency shelter when needed.

There are many benefits to owning a groundsheet. Image: Coleman

Regulations of Groundsheets

Believe it or not, there are some rules around the use of groundsheets – especially in privately operated caravan parks.

The most common is that groundsheets in some camping and caravan parks can only be made of open-weave shade cloth fabric. This is to allow the grass to breathe and minimise damage. No one enjoys a dusty campsite, and grass does require some upkeep to be maintained.

Some caravan and camping parks are now also asking that you lift or even move your groundsheets (as well as the tent or swag) at frequent intervals, to help maintain the health of the grass.

Mesh groundsheets will be necessary for some places to protect the grass. Image: Black Wolf

Options:

Made-to-Fit

These are groundsheets designed by manufacturers to specifically fit under their compatible tents. In most instances, the groundsheet also fits underneath the awning. Usually made with mesh fabric, some are still only available in solid fabric.

The major benefit here is that you can purchase with confidence, assured of a perfect fit without hassle.

Some of the tents in the current range at Snowys have made-to-fit groundsheets available separately include:

• Black Wolf Turbo tents
• Oztent RV tents
• Zempire Aerodome tents
• Most hiking tents

The Oztent RV1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 are models that have made to fit groundsheets available. Image: Oztent

Mesh Style

These groundsheets aren’t made to fit, but rather available in a variety of sizes. This can be a challenge in establishing what groundsheet fits, but also provides some freedom to set it up as you wish.

Made from a heavier-duty shade cloth material, the major benefit to this design is that it allows the grass underneath to breathe, while also allowing moisture, dirt, and debris to fall through. This ensures that the groundsheet won’t start pooling if it rains. They’re also comfortable to walk on.

The only real challenges with these styles are that they aren’t as durable as solid fabrics, a little more expensive, and can be hard to clean.

Currently, there are 3 mesh options available in a range of sizes:

• A durable and almost indestructible C-Gear Multimat
• The popular and affordable Oztrail Ultramesh option
• The versatile and tougher-than-turf L-Shaped Multimat by C-Gear

These are not made for specific tents, but come in a wide range of sizes to suit many popular tents. They’re also commonly used for awning floors, under kids’ pools, as windbreaks and sails, and more. C-Gear’s L-Shaped Multimat is both reversible and rotatable, particularly ideal for use under a 270 or 180 4WD awning.

The Oztrail Ultramesh provides many of the same benefits as the purpose-made footprints, but at a lower price. As for the C-Gear Multimat – heck, they can be used as helipads!

A mesh tarp is probably the most versatile option for a groundsheet. Image: Coleman Australia

Made from a heavier-duty shade cloth material, mesh groundsheets allow moisture, dirt, and debris to fall through. Image: Paul Goodsell

Solid Style

Solid styles aren’t made to fit, but also come in a range of sizes to suit. These aren’t as popular as mesh due to restrictions now placed upon them in caravan and camping parks.

The pros of the solid style groundsheets include that they offer more protection, compared to mesh. They’re also lower in cost, and may provide insulation against the cold ground.

While being a little easier to clean and providing a solid defense, solid groundsheets don’t allow for grass to breathe, can increase the chance of condensation and, worse still, will collect water underneath your tent floor when it rains (as opposed allowing it to fall through). The latter is especially true if you select one that is too large.

At Snowys, the most common style of solid groundsheet available is the humble and multi-purposeful tarp. Nothing is more versatile than a quality tarp (or ‘tarpaulin’). You can use one to waterproof the gear in your trailer or roof rack, then throw it under the tent while you camp. Tarps are available in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and thicknesses.

Solid heavy duty tarps are more hardwearing and offer more protection. Image: Ben Trewren

DIY Groundsheets

The last option for a groundsheet is to get a little creative with items you may already have!

You might have some extra shade cloth, building materials such as Tyvek or plastic, Sisalation (used for insulation), disposed-of curtains, or old pool covers. There are a few possibilities here for you to recycle what you already own. Hikers could consider using items such as an emergency blanket from their first aid kit too.

There are a few possibilities in recycling what you already own. Image: Coleman

A great option is to re-purpose what you already have as a groundsheet. Image: Ben Trewren

Measuring Up for a Groundsheet

A question we get asked a lot here at Snowys is, ‘will this groundsheet fit my tent?’

So, here’s how we figure out whether a groundsheet will work:

1. What Area do You Want to Cover?

You need to first think about what space you want to cover with a groundsheet. The base of the swag or tent is a given, but would you like some protection throughout the awning area(s), or beyond the perimeter of the tent itself?

2. Check Your Tent’s Dimensions

Once you’ve decided on the area you want to cover, look at the external dimensions of your tent. We list these in the ‘specifications’ column on each of our products pages, as well as in the tent floorplan (usually the last image). This will give you an idea of measurements for the area size you want to cover.

Once you’ve seen the sizes available, determine whether you’ll be able to acquire the coverage you’re after with one groundsheet or if you’ll need two or more together.

3. Making It Fit

It’s unlikely you’ll get the perfect fit. You could opt for a slightly smaller size that doesn’t give complete coverage – but while this makes it easy initially, in the long run it leaves your tent exposed to damage.

Alternatively, you could choose a slightly larger size to provide complete coverage. However, you’ll likely need to make some alterations.

You may need to use more than one tarp side by side to achieve a good fit for your shelter. Image: Ben Trewren

Can I Alter my Groundsheet?

We recommend against altering the size of the groundsheet. You’ll risk cutting it crooked, lose valuable coverage for other uses, and remove the reinforced edging (which will cause fraying).

Rather, we’d encourage you to fold the excess underneath the tent, or allow the excess tarp to exceed your tent and peg through the groundsheet.

Pegging through the groundsheet is a common alteration – but to ensure you get it right, here are our tips:

Consider the position of your tent, make the hole, and then reinforce it to prevent fraying. Image: Ben Trewren

How to Properly Peg Through a Groundsheet:

• We recommend laying your groundsheet out, then placing your tent on top of the groundsheet as desired.

• From there, look to peg out the tent as you normally would – but on this occasion, penetrating through the groundsheet.
• Take your time to ensure you only need one attempt at each peg, and only peg what is required.
• Important: you may need to reinforce each hole with tape or brass eyelets to stop it from fraying or continuing to rip. You can do this by using a heavy-duty tape, an adhesive glue, or stitching strong thread around each hole.
• It’s also worth noting on your groundsheet where the front/rear is, so that your tent and holes align next time.

Ben and Lauren discuss groundsheets in Episode 69 of the Snowys Camping Show:

If you have any further questions about protecting your tent, fire away in the comments!

The post Guide to Choosing the Right Size Groundsheet appeared first on Snowys Blog.

From wet weather tips and coffee at the campsite, to the best bags, mending swags, what they can’t camp without, and how to get around – this blog covers the first of a two-part series on the questions asked of our resident gear gurus – Ben and Lauren.

From wet weather tips to coffee at the campsite – read on for answers to some of our most-asked questions! Image: Sea to Summit

Camping

‘What are your favourite items of camping equipment?’

Ben’s favourite is his Aeropress coffee maker and X-Pot kettle from Sea to Summit, plus his solar panels so he can travel further off the grid. Lauren is very fond of her Cecil & Co Campfire Water Boiler which she uses with her 12V shower for steaming hot bush showers, her trusty Scrubba wash bag for cleaning clothes, and her Hillbilly cookstand for campfire cooking.

‘What do you look for when choosing a campsite? Do you have any local favs?’

Lauren admits that she doesn’t like to share her favourite spots, as there have been some great campsites in the past that have become trashed after gaining popularity. In terms of finding a good spot, she says WikiCamps has been helpful as you can filter both your region and requirements. Lauren now looks for bush camps / campsites with minimal amenities, are nearby a water source, offer space for kids to roam, and allow both dogs and campfires (within fire season). Ben largely feels the same, as he prefers more remote camping where there is plenty of space and solitude.

‘It would be cool to see your setups – Ben’s sounds quite interesting.’

You can hear more about Ben and Lauren’s setups in the Episode 71 and Episode 72 of the Snowys Camping Show:

‘There are many women camping solo these days. I am 59, and I would love to know what products make camping easier and safer for me.’

Instant Up Tents are a good example of easy, user-friendly camping gear. Lauren hasn’t solo-camped much in her time, but some contributors in our Facebook group have shared tips like taking an extra chair and leaving an empty can or beer bottle to give the impression of another camper’s presence. Also, having a way to communicate in terms of safety, be that some sort of messenger device to connect with your loved ones or a UHF radio for calling for assistance. This will provide some peace of mind.

‘Tips for taking toddlers camping?’

Having touched on both camping with kids and camping with teenagers, Lauren and Ben maintain their suggestion to allow children the freedom to explore in safe areas (i.e. away from spaces prone to snakes). Navigate the nooks and crannies with them, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. 

Along with old, worn clothing, Lauren recommends packing your child/ren a waterproof over-suit for winter camping, thrown on with a pair of gumboots for perfectly protected play among the mud puddles. She also comments that camping in caravan parks often presents more problems than setting up out in the open, where cars and other children tearing up the tracks on bikes can create a cramped and crowded space for toddlers. In the bush, parents can instead establish the clear perimeters their children can roam to, and eliminate any worries about washing. On that, Lauren suggests doubling a trug as both a washing basin and a bath.

For sleeping, Ben recommends creating a barrier either side of your child to prevent them from rolling off their mat. Especially in the winter, waking up in the middle of the night on the cold, hard floor can make defying the outdoors the following day difficult – and in some cases, cause sickness. Additionally, Lauren strongly suggests avoiding kids’ sleeping bags. In her experience, they’ve never offered the same level of warmth, longevity, or adequate length as the adult designs. Instead, simply purchase a standard sized bag, and either fold in half or block off at the end to prevent your pocket-sized humans from slipping too far into the sack.

Oh, and of course – be sure to not to skimp on the snacks!

‘What’s the right way to stake a tent?

Some say 45° away from tent, others 45° toward the tent, and some say vertically. Confusion reigns. For me, it’s critical the tent remains secure in wind!’

The top of the peg should be pointing away from the tent – so when you’re hammering it into the ground, it’s angled away from the tent.

‘On my lap around Australia, what is recommended: ute canopy, camper trailer, or caravan?’

For those travelling as a couple without children, Lauren and Ben suggest using a Ute canopy as opposed to attempting to tow a camper trailer or caravan. Nonetheless, in cases where campers feel comfortable leaving them stationary somewhere for long periods of time, caravans and trailers can provide a roomy, humble alternative.

That said, Ben agrees that an easier-to-set-up sanctuary is more economical and beneficial for a dynamic duo. The money saved on a camper trailer can instead be invested in upgrading your vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to accommodate a substantial rooftop tent. Ben suggests a thorough investigation into the style of rooftop tent you purchase, given some are easy to set up while others require the use of pegs and guy ropes.  

‘Do you consider using a caravan “camping”?’

In short, no – but it doesn’t matter what it’s called, doing what you enjoy is what matters. At the end of the day, it’s still a valuable pursuit. According to the Oxford Dictionary, camping is defined as: ‘The activity of spending a holiday living in a tent’. So, there you have it!

‘What are your thoughts about the future of Australian manufacturing within the camping/hiking and touring sector?’

Both Ben and Lauren believe that it’s important to support Australian-made and Australian-owned companies whenever possible. The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted many supply chain issues in every industry, but the market has been that way for quite some time in regards to overseas manufacturing. Keep in mind that just because a product is made offshore doesn’t mean it’s poor quality. Many Aussie family-owned brands choose to manufacture overseas due to the limited options in Australia with technology and machinery, so it’s a complex topic that should be considered from all angles.

Ben and Lauren chat with Laine and Erin Wescombe of Blacksmith Camping Supplies about everything Aussie Manufacturing:

‘Regarding First Aid, what knowledge is essential for campers and what items do you never leave without in your first aid kit?’

It’s good to have as much knowledge as you can if you’re heading somewhere remote, with a basic first aid course as the minimum. Keep some extra items in your first aid kit to cater for your specific needs as well. Lauren also mentions that it’s important to have an alternative method of communication if you frequently travel to areas where there isn’t a reliable phone signal. This could be in the form of a satellite communicator, satellite phone, or PLB. Even with some First Aid training, if there’s a life-threatening emergency, urgent medical attention will be required.

‘Ben – you always seem very focused on weight and functionality (rightfully so), but what do you take camping that isn’t necessary and something you consider a luxury?’

If it’s a luxury item, Ben usually doesn’t take it. That said, when he travelled up north (where it’s hot and humid), he carried a 12V Breezeway Fan from Outdoor Connection to keep his family cool.

Navigate the nooks and crannies with your kids, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. Image: Coleman

Sleeping Gear

‘I currently have 50mm thick, self-inflatable sleeping mats for my family car-camping trips.

I am finding lately that the mats don’t self-inflate as much as they used to, and aren’t as comfortable. I was thinking of going for hiking air mattresses with insulation, so they can be also used for canoe camping and the odd hike. Are these a good option, or should I consider something else?’

You could certainly use an air mat – but one of the main benefits of a self-inflating foam mat is that if there’s a puncture, you will still have some insulation to sleep on. Consider that you might have different comfort standards when you’re hiking compared to when you go family camping. You might want to go for a self-inflating mat designed for hiking, as they’re more durable and comfortable but still fairly lightweight.

‘Where can I find mattress toppers for swags?’

For those who are unfamiliar with a mattress topper – this is a corresponding product that provides added padding and comfort to an existing mattress. Where some have walls like a fitted sheet, others are simply a mat of synthetic fibre, down, merino or wool. Lauren recommends merino for adequate temperature regulation, while Ben simply utilises a fitted bed sheet that he tucks beneath the mattress sides.

While residential mattress sizes don’t align with those of swags, Lauren suggests visiting Target, K-Mart, Spotlight, or other hardware and homeware stores for adequate options.

‘Stretcher bed Vs air bed Vs self-inflating mat?

Particular consideration for those with back issues, knee issues, hand issues (i.e. comfort, getting up off the ground, assembling equipment, or closing valves)?’

Ben and Lauren reckon the best option for someone who might have limited mobility would be a stretcher that provides elevation, plus a self-inflating mat with a two-way valve so it’s easier to set up and pack away.

Consider that your comfort standards when you’re hiking will be different compared to when you go family camping. Image: Exped

‘What’s the best sleeping bag for men, and what’s the best for women?’

This is a complicated question as there are many factors, and most bags in the higher price bracket will perform similarly. Once you decide on either a synthetic or down bag, narrow it down to the fit, look for an EN rating, and consider size and packability.

Ben and Lauren also recommend listening to their interview with Sea to Summit discussing sleep systems, which might help with the decision-making process.

‘I bought a brand new down sleeping bag but it has a strong smell, like a wet dog.

I’m wondering if the down inside is bad, or something’s wrong with the bag? Is it normal that new down bags stink?’

This is totally normal and very common. Keep in mind, feathers are a natural fibre, so they will have a natural scent that will fade over time. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, but there are some things you can do to minimise it like taking it out of its storage sack and hanging it up in your wardrobe to ventilate. You also have the option of washing your down bag, but wetting the feathers can sometimes intensify the smell. We recommend keeping it dry, airing it, and just being patient.

‘Best sleeping bags for bigger people?’

For the taller campers, Sea to Summit offer longer-style sleeping bags. At 185cm, Ben fits a regular sized bag, while at 191cm tall Lauren’s partner is better suited to a longer design.

For those who are simply broader – or as Lauren calls it, ‘cuddlier’ – women-specific designs by Sea to Summit are narrower in the shoulders but allow more room in the hip area. Additionally, their Amplitude and Basecamp series mirror a large sack, feature two warmth ratings, and are significantly more spacious. Lauren describes their appearance as a fluffy balloon, boasting a huge internal circumference for star-fishing and spreading wide. These particular styles are popular among motorcycle tourists too.
Unlike the Mummy shaped design – wide at the shoulders, tapering at the feet – the rectangular fit maintains the same measure of room from head to toe. The Sea to Summit website indicates the internal circumference of their sleeping bags, as well as hip and shoulder measurements.

Like Sea to Summit, Darche also offer a 1100 sleeping bag that aligns with a King-King-Single size. While this doesn’t quite meet the same volume of space as a double, it is larger than a single and thus still offers a roomy alternative.

Weather Protection

‘What is the best rain jacket and best down jacket for men, what’s the best for women?’

This is a tricky one, as we don’t sell clothing at Snowys; it’s not our area of speciality. Essentially, when it comes to the top-of-the-range, high-quality clothing (where you’re spending $500+), the differences will likely be minor.

Generally, we would say that the hallmark of a high-quality rain jacket would be breathable waterproof fabric with ventilation and a good hood.

In terms of down jackets – if you’re just looking for one to wear around town, you could definitely go for something more affordable. However, if you’re using it for technical applications, look for models that use responsibly sourced down, have a good warmth-to-weight ratio, and feature water-resistant fabric.

‘Has anyone made up their own windbreak?

I was thinking of using shade cloth and star droppers. I think star droppers might be on the heavy and awkward-to-store side of things though – are there aluminium poles that would be suitable?’

Definitely – but we would suggest not taking star droppers as they are heavy, so could be dangerous in an accident. Even if strapped on tightly, it will become a spear if it begins to move with too much weight around it. Whatever you put on the roof rack must be secure. Aluminium poles will help save weight, so they are a good choice – plus, you’ll need good pegs and guy ropes. Ben recommends taking a mesh tarp folded in half, as this will mediate and slow the wind without putting too much stress on the poles.

‘Do you always pack clothing for any weather, or do you only ever pack for expected weather?’

Ben is a light packer, so he plans based on the expected weather forecast – although he might take a pair of pants and a light jumper sometimes, just in case. Lauren follows the same principle, though she might occasionally throw in a pair of comfy longer pants for wearing around camp. Regardless of the weather, she always packs a thick pair of socks to help her stay warm.

‘Tips or tricks for camping in the rain?’

In previous episodes, Lauren and Ben have touched on some logistics surrounding camping in wetter weather. Nonetheless, Ben encourages campers to enjoy the pitter-patter of raindrops on the still, damper days.

To prepare for the no-so-pleasant occasions, assess the weather predictions via the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) or your local agency. At the campsite, ensure guys ropes are taught, the fly is fully tensioned to ensure efficient funneling of rain, and establish a sheltered space for cooking and socialising, such as a spare tarp or gazebo.

Stick to lighting brands that are known for quality, such as Ledlenser. Image: Ledlenser

Electronics, Lighting, and Power

‘I’m thinking of buying a good head torch, but I don’t know if it’s worth spending good dollars on one or just replacing cheap ones as they stuff up…’

Ben’s approach to gear is that the fewer items thrown away, the better. Generally, with head torches, you get what you pay for. Ben has had a Princeton Tec head torch for 15 years which cost around $100. It has been on many adventures with him, and is still going strong! Stick to brands that are known for quality such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Silva, Ledlenser, or Nitecore.

For Lauren, the most important factors are that the unit is rechargeable and the battery can be replaced. She has used BioLite torchs in the past, but the internal battery can’t be replaced – this means that eventually it will end up in landfill. Instead, she now uses a Petzl Tikkina headlamp with a replaceable battery.

‘How do I determine the best small option for recharging my phone when camping, away from power points and a stationary vehicle, for 4-5 days?’

We would say start by working out what devices you’re going to use (e.g. just your phone, or other gear) and how much you want to use each device. Generally though, a small 20mAh powerbank should be suitable as something you can charge at home or while you drive.

Tents

‘Thoughts on camper trailers Vs tents for young family camping?’

Camper trailers are great for those who have the space at home to store them, are happy to tow, and also spend the initial investment by purchasing one. However, some limitations are that they can be time-consuming to put up, involve more maintenance, and require space for storage at home. That said, camper trailers are convenient and easier to get going with on your adventures –especially with kids.

‘Here’s one for Ben: would you take a hiking tent on your regular car-camping trips, or a larger tent?

Also, do you have an AGM battery in the car, or Lithium? If not Lithium, will you make the switch eventually?’

In his younger days, Ben was a hiker who took his lightweight tent on camping trips – but as his family grew, he upgraded to an older-style Black Wolf Tuff tent. He then upgraded to an Oztent RV5 tent for outback adventures, which is what he and his family still use now.

Currently, he has a lead-acid auxiliary and main battery, so he can charge them both with the same profile. That said, he would like to switch to lithium in the future to save weight.

Which tents on the market are the easiest and most efficient to set up and pack down for a newbie?

Lauren believes that the easiest to set up would be an air tent or an Instant Up design. Ben recommends checking out a basic dome tent, as you can’t really go wrong with good quality construction and thoughtful design.

‘What do you think of cheaper tents found at department stores?’

If you’re looking for a tent to survive a couple of uses, they will be fine – but if you want something that will stand up to many years of use, generally you do get what you pay for. If you were to have an issue with it, it’s unlikely that spare parts would be available, so even though the tent can be replaced through warranty the broken one will end up in landfill. We’d say the better approach is to buy once, buy right – so you can enjoy your shelter over many adventures.

A Muk Mat will help to prevent beach, bush, and campground grit from making its way indoors. Image: Muk Mat

Gear, Campsite, and General Maintenance

‘How can we limit the amount of sand and dirt little feet bring into our swags?

We have a 3-week trip planned with a mixture of beach, bush, and campground swagging with a 2- and 5-year-old!

You probably won’t be able to prevent this entirely, but you can manage it by keeping your shoes outside the swag. Putting a Muk Mat or some sort of foam matting outside as a doormat will help, as well as keeping a dustpan and brush on the inside to help get rid of any dirt on your bedding.

‘How can we keep pesky pests at bay? Wildlife sure are experts at penetrating defences!’

Lauren hasn’t really experienced issues with wildlife, as she camps with dogs and kids (so the noise probably keeps them at arm’s length). Neither has Ben. However, some general tips would be to keep food scraps secure, cover up and use insect repellents, set up orange lighting to deter bugs, and keep your tent zipped closed.

‘What is the best option for managing mozzies in particular when camping?’

As Ben’s wife is a mozzie-magnet, he suggests using EVERYTHING!

Some repellants include Thermocells, DEET, mosquito nets, sprays, and coils in still climates. For chemical-free prevention strategies, cover bare skin with long-sleeved clothing, keep screens and panels securely zipped, and simply factor a barrier of any kind into your camp set-up. For more tactics, check out Ep31 – Creepy Crawlies at the Campsite – or this blog on the many ways to repel bugs while camping.

‘How can I fix a snapped swag pole?’

For snapped fibreglass or alloy poles, the swag pole repair kit by Darche is a helpful henchman. For aluminium repairs, Darche offer two different kits – one for angular, segmental swags, and the other for arched hoops found in dome designs.

Replacement fibreglass poles of the same diameter can be sourced and simply cut to length, while repairing a breakage or snap is often done using the small tube-like sleeve (ferrule) included with most swags. Simply slide this over the top of the rupture and secure with duct tape for a temporary, stable fix lasting the remainder of a trip. Lauren demonstrates how to approach this in a Snowys YouTube video.

As for alloy poles, these are more difficult to repair or replace. Lauren and Ben suggest returning to the respective manufacturer for assistance.

‘Any unpacking, at-home rituals? Tips on gear checks and maintenance? Wet or windy weather activities?’

Ben and his family try to unpack straight away following a camping trip, before they do anything else. He generally makes notes while camping of anything that needs to be addressed or refilled, so it’s easy to sort everything upon arriving home. Lauren tends to leave it to the next day as she usually arrives home from her trips quite late. As her van is not their daily car, it doesn’t need to be unpacked straight away – however, she does take out the laundry, rubbish, and any leftover food.

In terms of activities on a rainy or windy day, Ben and Lauren suggest playing cards, games, reading a book, or listening to music to pass the time.

Ben loves making pizza and damper on the campfire. Image: Campfire

Camp Cooking and Food

‘Best coffee makers for camping?’

A good question for Ben, who maintains that the AeroPress or Wacaco are the most ideal coffee brewers out bush. While an AeroPress can simply be filled with water before a dash of cold milk, the Wacaco produces a traditional espresso shot that requires heated milk to produce an equally hot, hearty cup.

For the super hardcore hot coffee fanatics, some large silver stove-top setups produce espresso and steam milk simultaneously. Boiling the water builds up pressure, creating the shot and concurrently steaming the milk.

‘What’s your favourite recipe for camp stoves and open fires?’

In terms of campfire recipes, Ben loves making pizza and damper, while Lauren is a fan of a bacon and eggs brekkie or stewed lamb shanks in a camp oven. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Fire to Fork cookbook is a good place to start.

Camp stove cooking can be restrictive, but you could get fancy with pasta sauces or use a hotplate to cook a BBQ. Lauren mainly just pre-cooks meals at home and vacuum seals them to reheat in boiling water. This saves gas, time, and cleaning up.

Ben and Lauren chat with Fire to Fork’s Harry Fisher about all things campfire cooking:

‘What food is best to leave in the pantry for short overnight stops (product review on Back Country or Outdoor Gourmet food brands)?’

While Lauren and Ben have previously tapped into freeze-dried and dehydrated meals, they plan to present a more hands-on, detailed demonstration that offers a better sense of how these packet foods look, taste, and cook. Until then, Lauren offers her opinion, essentially describing them as hit-or-miss. Ben and Lauren often have opposing views depending on the brand or choice of meal, which is ultimately suggestive of how subjective freeze-dried and rehydrated food reviews really are.

The appeal of freeze-dried meals comes from their convenience on lightweight adventures, and so aren’t a pleasing enough substitute for a meal on occasions when standard food would otherwise be consumed. For example, Ben’s go-to pasta recipe on his most recent camping holiday used canned vegetables which, in comparison to packet meals, allowed a ‘fresher’-tasting dinner. That said, the Radix brand of freeze-dried food is commonly preferred over others, with a greater resemblance to standard meals.

Overall, Ben suggests canned or long-life food to keep overnight in the pantry, given no refrigeration is required. On that, products displaying a ‘best before’ date often has greater flexibility around the consumption timeline than that of a ‘use by’. That said, the further it surpasses its date stamp, the more it drops in quality and flavour.

Other alternatives include the Offgrid and Go Native brand of heat-and-eat packet food. Go Native is preserved via ‘retort packaging’. This method involves sealing the cooked food while still hot, as opposed to dehydrating. From here, the packet simply requires reheating with boiling water. Ben recommends this as a hearty alternative to other packet meals.

‘Best ultralight cutlery and crockery for hiking, at the lowest price?’

Our podcast hosts both agree that the Sea to Summit polypropylene set is the most cost-efficient and effective hiking cutlery, at just under five dollars per set. Bundled as a fork, spoon, and knife, simply link with a carabiner for a no-fuss food-friendly system. The Delta range of cutlery is shorter, constructed with durable polypropylene and the same reinforced nylon plastic, finished with a flexible plastic carabiner for keeping neat and collected amongst your clutter.  

For crockery, the Sea to Summit Delta bowl and/or plate is a lightweight option. When hiking, a bowl is generally all that’s required, while the additional plate often bodes better for a camping-style holiday.

Ultimately though, Lauren insists that if your camp cutlery isn’t comfortable to hold, the eating experience is thrown completely off course! For that reason – and all lightweight, cost-effective suggestions aside – she carries a set of standard steel cutlery in her camping kit.

Offgrid is an example of fresh, heat-and-eat packaged food, great for overnight stops. Image: Offgrid

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

‘The Snowys products Ben and Lauren couldn’t go without?’

A coffee connoisseur at the campsite, Ben’s response – an AeroPress – is hardly a surprise. His commonly coined nickname ‘Safety Ben’ has him sheepishly admitting that his choice should probably be something more along the lines of a first aid kit or a swag. Nonetheless, he can’t go without coffee – and wasn’t that the question?!

On the other hand, Lauren claims that her Scrubba Wash Bag and Collapsible Space Saving tubs are the most-used, well-loved, not-to-be-forgotten tackle in her pack. After not taking her washbag on her last getaway, she missed it more than she expected – while her collapsible tubs now allow far more room in her kitchen, holding large pats of butter, avocado halves, and wads of bacon.

‘Favoured Snowys products by Snowys staff?’

Jess from Customer Service: a sleeping bag liner. Versatile throughout both warm and wintery weather, this product also keeps her sleeping bag clean.

Sam from Customer Service: trekking poles. Be it for relieving pressure from the knees, hoisting herself up hills, checking the levels of mud holes before heaving across hip-deep, or flipped upside-down for use as tent poles – Sam believes that trekking poles offer true camping comradery.

Laine from the Web Team: a soft-sided cooler and luggage scales. Too often has he left beers behind at a BBQ in someone else’s fridge, so his cooler is now his personal, portable cranny for the cold ones. Thanks to his luggage scales too, he now beats getting burnt at the JetStar luggage check-in, previously packing too much tackle that wavered over the ideal weight.

Cory from IT: his fridge (for keeping his beer), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Cup (for drinking his beer), and Pacsafe waist wallet (…for buying his beer).

Leece from Customer Support: like Ben, an AeroPress – plus a Delta insulated cup.

Michael from the Web Team: a round jaffle iron! Leading up to his travels, Michael would purchase McDonald’s cheeseburgers to keep in the fridge. At the campsite, he simply cooked them in the jaffle iron over the campfire for an even faster fast-food fix!

Brett from the Web Team: the JetBoil Zip. Simply fill, clip, and boil – the perfect stripped-down, lightweight option for fast adventures, covering your coffee fix or for reheating a Radix meal. Lauren owns the JetBoil MiniMo – a short, stocky alternative – which perches perfectly and patiently for her prior to brewing a coffee or tea. An all-round, well-loved product in the Snowys family!

‘When will Snowys open a store in Sydney?’

Unfortunately, to Ben and Lauren’s knowledge, this won’t be a move Snowys will make in the foreseeable future. That said, the ever-evolving, ridgy-didge website successfully accommodates every Snowys supporter around the country!

From swags to Scrubba wash bags, there are some key items that Ben and Lauren can’t go camping without. Image: Darche

For an audio experience, tune into the following episodes as Ben and Lauren address the above questions:

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 65, 66, and 92 to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 1) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Sometimes, there’s just no way around it: you need to change your camping clothes, especially if you are away for longer than a few days. Perhaps they are dirty enough to stand up on their own, or maybe you’ve pulled into a town and have decided to treat yourself to a meal out? Then there are just those occasions when you’re booked into a day tour and feel like wearing a fresher outfit. Whatever the reason, washing laundry while camping is, for the most part, a necessary chore.

Here are just a few tips to keep up your sleeve when planning your next trip.

Sometimes, there’s just no way around it: you need to change your camping clothes. Image: Scrubba

Sometimes the next caravan park is too many days away, so a bush washing line does the job.

Wash ‘n Wear

There are many options for washing on the road; it doesn’t matter if you are touring, base camping, driving a 4WD, car camping, or travelling by bicycle – it is inevitable that you will need to wash something on your travels (even if it’s just your underwear).

First things first, allow me to debunk any notion in favour of packing extra garments in an attempt to avoid washing. You will gather an increasingly full bag of dirty laundry, and it’s false to believe this is advantageous; it will only clutter your limited camp storage, even if you’re using a laundry bag. If your clothes aren’t obviously soiled or smelly, don’t bother washing them. Surprisingly, this saves a lot of time, arguments, and precious real estate on your drying line!

If your travel plans include an overnight stay in a caravan park, this is a good time to cycle through one larger load where you can get both the clothes and bedding done. Take advantage of the extra-wide communal line and hang everything out to sun-dry. Take that time to enjoy a cuppa or a swim!

You may not want to wear the same underwear every day, but dark colours are good to pack. Image: Elemental

The communal clothesline in a caravan park is great for getting everything dry.

Avoid Packing ‘Lights’

Dark colours and patterns are always a good choice for hiding marks and stains. Clothing with a longer wear-life, like denim shorts or jeans, are ideal to pack. Skirts and dresses can also prolong the number of days between washing sessions; good space-saving garments that can be perfect for dining out in the new town or days when a tour is booked.

Don’t despair if bore water discolours your clothes, or turns your light clothes look a little brown. Wear it as an outback badge of honour, but remember that darker colours help to disguise that bore water trademark.

I’ve also heard a tip to skip PJs; the idea is to sleep in what you intend to wear the next day. I’m not sure that’s one for everyone, but it could suit you. Although there are many more ideas out there, both odd and practical, most are worth considering and maybe even experimenting with.

A simple wardrobe with small loads washed more often makes managing laundry easier.

Be you touring, base camping, driving a 4WD, car camping, or travelling by bicycle – it is inevitable that you will need to wash something on your travels. Image: Elemental

You can stretch out the days between washing through one simple strategy – wear the same thing! Generally, no one will notice if you dress in the same clothes day in, day out – and if they do, it’s unlikely they’ll care! If you don’t believe me, look at anyone’s holiday snaps and you will see that they repeat their wardrobe between locations.

Another tip for a fresh look without the need for suds and water is to take a couple of scarves. Or, simply a different t-shirt over the same shorts. Perhaps the trend towards a ‘capsule wardrobe’ has its roots in camping? For more info on how to maintain personal hygiene while camping, check out this blog here.

Look at anyone’s holiday snaps and you will see that they repeat their wardrobe between locations! Image: Scrubba

Another tip is to skip PJs, and instead sleep in what you intend to wear the next day. Image: Sea to Summit

Man Vs Machine

Washing smaller loads of clothing more frequently is a better system than putting it off until there’s a monumental pile – you will save both time and water!

Washing by hand can be done with a folding bucket or even the Sea to Summit Kitchen Sink for a compact but watertight option. If you’re on the go, you can also use a Scrubba Washbag or watertight bucket. Simply mix laundry detergent and water together, pop in your dirties, and it will agitate as you drive along. If possible, replace the washing water with clean water during your lunch break, lock on the lid, and your cycle will rinse as you drive. When you stop, wring them out and hang on the line.

I like to use a wool wash, as it’s gentler on fabric and you needn’t rinse it as thoroughly as other liquids or powders – yet it still achieves clean, fresh-smelling clothes. When buying detergent, look for biodegradable options, especially for handwashing out in the middle of the bush or by the beach when you are not disposing of the wastewater down a drain. Biodegradable options are just what their label suggests; they are far less disruptive to the natural environment.

If you’re on the go, you can use a Scrubba Washbag for laundry. Image: Scrubba

Simply mix laundry detergent and water together, pop in your dirties, and it will agitate as you travel. Image: Scrubba

Cash and Carry

If you’re away for an extended time, campground laundries are a necessary evil. Use these tips to make washing less of a chore.

If you’re unable to line-dry, try to gather a stash of $1 and $2 coins for the washing machine and dryer before leaving home. There’s no guarantee what coin you’ll need, so at an average of $4 per load, I start with $10 of each and use purse change to top up as I go.

When you arrive, ask at the office what coins are required and only take them. Staff or other campers using the machines usually know how long a load takes, which is useful information, but if you’re not sure, why not save yourself a walk back and forth and get the kids to go and check instead?

Be prepared with a stash of gold coins.

Leave your basket on the machine to make it easier and more efficient for everyone.

Get to the laundrette as early as you can; a load is done in around 45 minutes, so you could have it on the line before breakfast! Otherwise, do it last thing at night and if you’re lucky it will be dry after breakfast the following morning and you can fold it away before the day’s activities. It’s a good idea to avoid the peak time of between 3pm and 4pm, as most people are either returning from their day trips or arriving to set up camp, eager to get a load on.

To avoid taking the whole box to the laundry, I use a Ziplock bag to decant a load’s worth of powder and a small dash of Napisan to brighten the whites and colours. Always leave a basket or bag on your machine and check the time to be back. If your cycle finishes and you’re not there, the next person can take out your load get theirs in without delay.

One laundry method is to hang washing in groups, per person.

Drying’s a Breeze!

If you are going to use the tumble dryer, be the person who (finally) cleans out the lint! The machine won’t have to work as hard to dry your clothes, making it more efficient and saving you some gold coins.

If you have space for one, travel with a folding rack, mini folding clothesline, a folding ‘smalls hanger’, or airer. I prefer to line dry, folding and sorting as I go. There is often limited space back at camp, so I use two methods. The first involves hanging out deliberately in per-person groups, the second is to unpeg one family member at a time.

I have heard some people use a compartmentalised bag like those for supermarket trolleys, to separate clothing, linen, and towels. It sounds a bit pedantic, but useful to get away and see the sights instead of sorting on site!

If I need a makeshift line on wash day, I carry a couple of Sea to Summit Clotheslines which are designed to use without pegs. They are easy to fix onto a couple of awning poles, or tied between two trees.

The Sea to Summit clothesline is designed to use without pegs. Image: Sea to Summit

Never leave home without the pegs!

Down a Peg or Two

I have saved the best advice till last, as it is almost impossible to survive without them. You may think these are obvious, but I have seen many washer folks at the point of collapse for failing to take them.

So, the number one tip? Don’t forget to pack the pegs!

Pack essentials only, and favour dark colours or patterns. Image: Elemental

Let’s recap for those who want a quick list on the go…

• Pack essentials only, and favour dark colours or patterns
• Repeat your wardrobe; you do not need to wear something different every day
• Wash small loads, more frequently
• Consider using a wool wash detergent to avoid needing to thoroughly rinse
• Use a Scrubba Washbag or sealable bucket to agitate the water and wash clothes while you drive
• Pack rope or a pegless clothesline for drying clothes
• Save your larger loads for the caravan park
• Carry a stash of gold coins for the laundromat / laundrette machines
• Use a Ziplock bag for decanting one load-worth of powder
• Leave your washing basket or bag on top of your machine to save everyone time
• Create a hanging and sorting system for yourself
• Remember to pack your pegs!

Have you got any other tips to add to this list?

The post Guide to Laundry at the Campsite appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Be you travelling with family or friends, sharing a site with your neighbours, or visiting an isolated spot that someone else will eventually occupy – there is always a sense of community in the outdoors. This is what allows us to create memories that last a lifetime, which is why it’s important to ensure that we leave spaces as we found them. That way, they’re ready for the next group to visit. It’s not a pleasant experience when there are pieces of rubbish left at the campsite, toilets not packed down properly, or campfires left full of glass, tin, and foil. This makes it difficult for the next group of campers to have a positive start.

As a camping nation, we need to work together to get it right when it comes to packing up camp. With that in mind, here are five tips for packing down your campsite properly.

Be you travelling with family or friends, or sharing a site with your neighbours – there is always a sense of community in the outdoors. Image: BlackWolf

1. Be Conscious of Time

You’ve had a great time camping, but sadly the time has arrived to either move on or head home. While you want to dismiss the thought of pack-up for as long as possible, it’s important you give yourself enough time to avoid the rush. This will only result in mistakes; you get into the car, and you’re ready to drive off… then it hits you. Your keys are still in the tent pocket, which is packed up in its bag… which is buried at the bottom of your trailer!

Not taking your time can also result in gear breaking. Snapping your tent poles because you’re deconstructing them the incorrectly just to get home faster is not ideal!

Or, going to use that expensive torch you bought, only to find that you can’t… because you left it at the campsite!

Not only is your time important to consider, but so is the time of others. Many people love to get an early start on the journey, home which is no problem – unless you involve everyone in the process! Nobody likes being woken up to the sound of people packing up – especially when it involves pots crashing into each other, or cursing because the tent won’t fit into the bag! If you’re leaving super early, start packing the night before so that your morning efforts cause minimal disturbance.

Take your time packing up, and clearing up your campsite. Image: BlackWolf

2. Take Your Rubbish With You

The idea of dealing with your own rubbish properly seems obvious and straightforward – but sadly, in my experience, it quite frequently isn’t. The approach is simple: what you bring into your campsite, you should take home with you.

If you’re lucky enough to camp where bins are provided, feel free to use these – but once they’re full, the responsibility is on you to deal with your own rubbish, not the people who placed the bins there!

Don’t be that person who leaves rubbish next to a bin. Don’t be that person who buries rubbish, either. Rubbish attracts animals, even if it’s buried – they still smell it out and dig it up, and this results in a rubbish-strewn campsite! Not only is this unpleasant to come across, it can result in bad habits for the local wildlife.

The responsibility is on you to take care of your own rubbish. Image: Oztent

3. Clear Your Campfire

Dealing with your campfire is not only important for your fellow campers but the entire community. The simple reality is that a badly managed fire has severe consequences.

When it comes time to depart, ensure that your campfire is completely extinguished (even the embers that aren’t glowing) by pouring any leftover fluids that you don’t need over the fire. If extra water isn’t available, you can ‘suffocate’ it by turning dirt over onto the campfire. In the event that you don’t have other options, find water from a source close by to extinguish the campfire. Even after it seems to be completely diminished, throw another splash or turn another shovel of dirt for good measure.

Also, ensure that no rubbish is left in the fire pit. While it’s discouraged to try burning glass, tin, or foil – if you choose to do so, ensure these are pulled from the ashes and placed in your rubbish bag before departing. Nobody appreciates coming across a fire pit full of dangerous debris, let alone rubbish in general.

There’s nothing better than a roaring campfire, but make sure you take the steps to clear it out. 

4. Clean Your Gear to Avoid Double Handling

Naturally, you’ll likely be feeling tired toward the end of your camping trip. The thought of getting home to a hot shower and your own bed is becoming more appealing with every moment. However, you can’t be complacent when it comes to packing down your gear!

You’ve paid good money for quality equipment. In order to maintain that quality, you need to take good care of it. The best thing to do is to start this process at the campsite to limit the double handling you’ll need to do once you get home. This doesn’t require a whole cupboard of cleaning gear; you can do the little things like shaking out the dirt, drying out your gear, and washing your cutlery and crockery before you hit the road.

When you arrive home, all there is to do take care of the small tasks rather than starting everything from scratch.

You’ve paid good money for quality equipment – so take good care of it. Image: Coleman

5. Keep a List, so Next Time is Better!

During your adventure, and especially during pack down, you’ll undoubtedly remember things you’ve forgotten!

You also might conjure ideas on how to make improvements, or discover your gear needs either repairing or replacing.

Take the stress out of all of this by having a sheet of paper or notebook handy. That way, you can record these notes before you forget them, and sort everything before your next adventure. This is especially important if you need to repair or replace any equipment; sometimes spare parts can take some time to source, or new products may take a while to adapt to.

Give yourself the peace of mind that you’ve prepared and organised yourself better when the next adventure calls, so you’re ready to hit the road again!

Give yourself the peace of mind that you’ve prepared and organised yourself better when the next adventure calls. Image: Oztent

Let us in on your best packing tips below!

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However, many of us love getting out of the big smoke and hit the roads to find quieter places that give us a sense of the great outdoors. We travel to these places because they are different to our everyday environment. This requires understanding that the services we take for granted cannot always be delivered in the same seamless way we expect. 

Many of us love getting out of the big smoke and hit the roads to find quieter places that give us a sense of the great outdoors. Image: BlackWolf

Water

For many outback towns, the only source of water is through bores. Some places are lucky and the water is beautiful. But in others, it can be slightly brackish and have a sulphurous smell. This water is fine for washing yourselves and clothing, but may need boiling before drinking. It’s what the locals live with all the time; nothing wrong with it, just different.

In towns like Coober Pedy in South Australia, the only source of water is from a bore about 30km out of town! It’s too salty to use, and every drop has to be treated by reverse osmosis to be useable. This process is very energy-intensive and expensive. Paying 20 cents for 40 litres of water, or a few cents for a shower in the caravan park may seem inconvenient – but this is what the locals pay all the time!

Waste

Ever pulled into a roadside rest area only to find bins overflowing and garbage strewn everywhere? Imagine the logistics and cost of emptying these regularly, many of which involve travelling hundreds of kilometres to the nearest town.

There is a simple solution to this: take your garbage with you and dispose of it in the next town. It’s great to see many 4WDs with garbage bags hanging on their spare wheel, which is an easy method of approach. Before telling all your friends how bad a place is, or rushing to social media or review sites, have a long hard think about what is causing the problem. Talk to the local people about the situation so that any comments you do make are informed and measured. Remember, once it’s on the internet, it’s there forever – good, bad, or ugly. Uninformed and sometimes completely wrong comments may well have a detrimental effect on other people’s livelihood – so think before you speak.

When leaving your camp area, take your garbage with you and dispose of it in the next town. Image: BlackWolf

Having a durable bin bag attached to the outside of your vehicle means the inside of your car won’t get stinky. Image: Aaron Schubert

Toileting

Very few small outback towns have proper sewerage systems, with many relying on septic tanks or similar eco solutions. In some places, especially campgrounds, a long-drop is the solution to this everyday problem!

Sure, sometimes there is a smell, and this often made worse by travellers emptying chemical toilet tanks into these systems. This instantly kills the bacteria that break down waste and reduce the smell. One should only ever empty chemical toilets into designated dump points or, if there is no other option, bury it in a very deep hole dug well away from any trees, water sources, creeks, or stock watering points.

Keep in mind that when these systems break down there are usually no plumbers on call! This often results in considerable delays before repairs are carried out. The other major problem can be seen at any roadside rest area or camping spot: toilet paper and human waste scattered around the area! This results in many areas closing to campers.

Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), the days of the squat and a shovel are rapidly disappearing. This is likely due to the number of campers around, which makes it more difficult to find a private spot!

Two aspects need to be considered:

• What to do it in
• How to do it privately

Very few small outback towns have proper sewerage systems, with many relying on septic tanks or similar eco solutions. Image: Aaron Schubert

In some places, especially campgrounds, a long-drop is the solution! Image: BlackWolf

Dig and Squat

This method of toileting in the bush can still be possible in more remote areas, but it needs some consideration:

• The hole must be at least 30cm deep to ensure there is enough soil on top of what has been deposited. This reduces the chance of animals, attracted by smell, digging up the area.
• Burn the toilet paper (ensure kids are supervised and there is not a fire ban) to reduce the chance of the paper being dug up and scattered. Or, place toilet paper in a Ziplock bag and dispose of it when you next arrive at a proper garbage disposal site. Carry a container of these bags in your vehicle and RV. You only need the cheap ones!
• For those who prefer better comfort, there are toilet seats mounted on old camp stool legs, designed to be placed over the hole. A variety of these is available online. Just remember to put the lid down to keep the flies out!
• Sometimes, trees and bushes do not provide the required level of privacy. This is where a pop-up toilet/shower tent is invaluable.

The ‘Dig and Squat’ method can still be possible in more remote areas, but it needs some consideration. Image: Aaron Schubert

Portable Chemical Toilets

Although the Porta-Potti has been around for years, many people have not seen the need, discouraged by both the smell and the requirement to empty and clean.

Well, modern portable toilets are easy to use, flush, and clean. They’re available in a variety of sizes, and even feature an electric, push-button flushing mechanism. Many Councils around the country have installed public dump points for the emptying of portable toilets (look for the RV Friendly sign when coming into country towns) and most caravan parks now have this facility. So, let’s see how they work.

Construction and Setup

• Portable toilets consist of an upper flushing tank and a lower waste tank that clip together and are separated by a sealed opening into the waste tank.
• Fill the top tank with water and add the required amount of flushing tank fluid. This fluid deodorises the water and gives it a degree of “slipperiness”, a bit like detergent. The Thetford Aqua Rinse, for example, works really well.
• Place a small amount of water and the required amount of waste tank fluid in the waste tank. Thetford Aqua Kem Green is very effective.

A major problem can be seen at any roadside rest area or camping spot: toilet paper and human waste scattered around the area! Image: Aaron Schubert

Your tank should be emptied at a proper dump point or in a toilet on a sewerage system. Image: Aaron Schubert

Using the Portable Toilet

• Regardless of the nature of the visit, sitting down on the job is generally the best way of using a portable toilet.
• If number two’s are the order of the day, a couple of sheets of toilet paper placed in the bottom of the bowl and across the opening aid in the clean-up later on. Even though specific toilet paper that breaks down easily is often recommended, there isn’t a problem with using standard toilet paper.
• To flush the toilet, open the sealed separator between the two tanks and push the flush button. Or, use the pump until the bowl is clean.
• When flushing, a small toilet brush is useful to ensure proper cleanliness. If staying in one place for some time, set the toilet up in a changing tent with a container of water mixed with a small amount of waste tank fluid to hold the toilet brush.
• Close the sealed separator after use.

Emptying the Portable Toilet

This is probably the part that puts people off using a portable toilet more than anything else! Nonetheless, it need not be a major hassle. Modern toilet chemicals deal with the smell and are very effective at breaking down solid waste and toilet paper.

• Separate the flushing tank from the waste tank.
• The tank should be emptied at a proper dump point or in a toilet on a sewerage system. As mentioned previously, never empty into a toilet on a septic system as the chemicals can kill the bacteria that allow the septic system to work.
• Always ensure that the breather mechanism is operating when emptying the tank, to avoid any ‘glug’-causing splashes.
• Thoroughly rinse the tank to ensure a complete clean.
• You are now ready to add more chemicals and flushing water to set up the toilet for further use.

Ben and Lauren discuss taking care of business in the outdoor in Episode 51 of the Snowys Camping Show:

From rubbish collection to track maintenance, there are a few considerations when leaving no trace in a 4WD. Image: Darche

Leaving No Trace in a 4WD

Rubbish Collection & Maintenance

Once again, take all of your rubbish with you when you leave!

This includes cans, bottles, food scraps, and everything in between. If you are allowed a campfire, you can burn paper, cardboard, and toilet paper – but the rest should be bagged up securely and taken out with you. Cans, especially tuna, can be rinsed and thrown on the fire to burn off any residue that might either attract animals or become stinky – but remember to remove them from the ashes and bag them up to take with you.

Keep a heap of big garbage bags in your kit and when they are full, stash the load in a wheel bag on the back of the camper trailer. Then, dump it into a public bin when you next pass through a town. If the bins are full, don’t leave your rubbish – the crows and other animals will get into it and distribute it everywhere.

If you are allowed a campfire, you can burn paper, cardboard, toilet paper, and even tuna cans to remove residue. Image: Barry Peters

Having a rubbish storage option that doesn’t pong out your car is a critical part of doing this easily and efficiently. Wheel bags like the Bushranger or the canvas model from Blacksmith Camping Supplies are true game-changers for taking rubbish home on the back of your camper, 4WD, or caravan.

One of the bigger problems (literally) is that of larger items being discarded. Broken camp furniture, tents, tyres, recovery gear, and vehicle accessories get dumped when they are damaged or broken. Just because they are trickier to pack, do the right thing and leave nothing behind.

Boe and Kimberley from Outback Cleanups Australia, are committed to travelling from beach to bush, cleaning up all the rubbish left behind by others. Image: Outback Cleanups Australia

Rubbish tossed at Kellys Knob. Image: Aaron Schubert

Track Maintenance & Condition

Long story, short – stick to designated tracks and drive sensibly.

If you own a 4WD vehicle, you can do a huge amount of damage when you drive where you aren’t supposed to. Stay on existing tracks: stock routes, fire access tracks, and old industry trails like those from CSIRO exploration.

Be aware of areas where you need a permit, and ask permission before you enter private property. If there are no designated tracks, follow old tyre marks – if you can’t see any, perhaps consider whether or not you should be driving there at all!

Not all rules are made to be broken, so obey the signs. National parks, private property, and general tourist hot spots will have rules that should be followed. If you see a sign declaring the area has restricted access, and you haven’t had your movements approved by the relevant authorities, do not enter. If you pass through a gate, leave it as you found it – be it open or closed. If closed, be mindful of the way in which it was latched and ensure you secure it properly.

Stay out of areas in where you are not meant to be. Keep to the tracks that are marked and designated on a map. Have a Plan B with an alternative route mapped out, so if conditions are compromised on the day you can go another way without risking your vehicle or further damage to the terrain.

If the track is not well used and has become overgrown, navigate your way carefully. Weave around trees, and avoid damaging or clearing branches and other vegetation as much as possible. If you must remove a low overhanging branch, don’t recklessly snap it off – this risks damage and disease to the tree. Use a saw instead to do the job in the most responsible way.

Stay on existing tracks. Image: Darche

Managing Different Terrain

One of the fastest ways you can wreck an off-road track is to drive without letting your tyres down. High tyre pressures will put more stress on your vehicle, but they also do unnecessary damage to tracks. This results in greater levels of maintenance and regular grading, otherwise those people driving behind will have a far more unpleasant experience. Get the right tyres for the terrain, and adjust your pressures to suit.

A bit of wheel spin is inevitable, and in many instances completely harmless – but if you are ripping up grassed areas, or driving foolishly just for the fun of it, pull your head in!

Bush

It’s harsh and unforgiving, but there is a thriving ecosystem out there! Avoid driving over spinifex grasses. They may not look like much, but they trap soil nutrients and are a habitat for small creatures.

Sand & Dunes

When driving along beaches, sticking to the firmer, packed sand, close to the low tide mark, is often your best bet. However, it’s worth having a quick read about the particular location so you can be aware of undulating/off-camber features and sinkholes. If you are crossing dunes, keep to tracks – or, better still, use ramps if they are available. Many animals, including coastal birds and marine life, use the softer sand found at the high-tide mark and/or dunes for nesting. Vehicles can destroy these nests, as well as the essential vegetation that hold the integrity of the dunes with their network of roots.

Let your tyres down and match the pressure to the terrain you’re driving. Image: Aaron Schubert

Mud

Muddy tracks are easily cut up! Avoid making them worse by choosing an alternative route. Repairing tracks is expensive and access with the right machinery is difficult and time-consuming. As a consequence, local authorities or landowners are often forced to close a track that has suffered damage by irresponsible drivers.

You can still have fun and get your mud fix! We’re lucky in Australia to have a range of private locations that are designated 4WD playgrounds, so go your hardest there.

Water

Sometimes creek crossings are unavoidable, especially in the Kimberley region. Don’t cross them if you don’t need to – but if you do, look for an existing ford or track. Check the depth before attempting to drive across and be aware of the aquatic life – there could be fish breeding, or a rare species.

Mud! Image: Aaron Schubert

Animals & Wildlife

The ability to travel off-road allows you to explore more remote areas and witness some pretty spectacular scenes. From racehorse goannas to inquisitive birds, mobs of kangaroos and emus, and the inspiring sight of the Wedge-Tailed eagle or its nest – be there in the moment and soak it up, but don’t get carried away.

Wombat burrows litter the outback and are large enough to swallow the front half of a ute! Take it easy and weave your way through so both you, your vehicle, and the wombat’s home can remain unscathed.

Most of us are familiar with ‘roo-hour’, and if you are still on the track (or highway, for that matter) at dawn or dusk, take extra care and stay vigilant. Maintain deep respect for the animals and their environment. Try not to travel at night when wildlife is most active, and allow animals to move off the track before slowing down and calmly passing.

Stay downwind and don’t chase any animal with your vehicle. If you happen to hit a creature, always stop, check for life – both the animal and any young – and call your local wildlife organisation if help is needed.

Try to keep your engine revs low so as not to disturb or frighten any wildlife with your noise. If you must clear the path of rocks or logs, put them back once you have passed. These natural objects are their homes.

Wombat burrows can be huge and should be carefully driven around. Image: Coleman Australia

Acknowledge Country

Australia has a remarkable history which should be respected. Be culturally sensitive and observe your surroundings. Some sites are off-limits, sacred, or have restricted access – be it because they are a reserve for remote communities, or hold particular significance to specific groups. Even in lesser-known areas, climate change and the movement of dunes has revealed ancient Aboriginal middens. This is another reason to remain mindful when driving over dunes.

Making the effort to learn the cultural significance of the area in which you are travelling is a worthy investment of your time. Leave Aboriginal rock art alone, read the information available, and listen to and respect the teachings from local elders.

The Gija and Jaru peoples are the Traditional Custodians of Purnululu National Park – home to the Bungle Bungle. Image: Aaron Schubert

Recovery & Gear

The key to 4WDing is learning how to manage challenging terrain. Mastering this skill and navigating environments that are constantly changing is part of the thrill and what attracts enthusiasts to the activity. You never know what you’re going to get – but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be prepared.

Kitting out your vehicle with appropriate 4WD recovery gear makes all the difference. Not only to your safety, but also the impact you’ll have on the surrounding environment if you do find yourself in a situation (especially if you get bogged).

Equipment includes recovery tracks and a tree trunk protector or blanket to wrap around the tree before you winch yourself out. Safeguard your driving lights with clear covers too, so they’re shielded from stones or debris flicking up and cracking the bulbs.

If you’re extended touring and need to undergo some bush mechanics, do your research. If an oil change is necessary, be prepared with some empty containers to catch the old oil and newspapers cover the ground. Find out where you can dispose of the waste responsibly – don’t leave it behind, and don’t allow your old oil to empty out over the earth.

Using the right recovery gear will minimise the damage you cause to both your vehicle and the environment. Image: Aaron Schubert

Weeds & Grasses

Check around your muffler, grill, and vehicle’s undercarriage for any grasses or branches to clear before continuing on. This is especially important if you’re travelling between national parks or conservation areas, as it prevents the spread of weeds and fungal diseases.

Mufflers get hot too, and dry grasses caught in or around may catch alight. This is a danger to yourself inside your vehicle but also a bushfire risk if the flame then catches onto other grasses as you’re travelling.

All in all, before setting off, ensure your vehicle is in good shape. Check the mechanics, your tyres, and top up your kit with parts. Check and fix any oil leaks – and if you’re carrying a load, make sure you are not top-heavy! Distribute the weight so it’s balanced, too. A well-packed vehicle will handle the terrain more efficiently and cause less damage than one that is struggling due to an uneven load.

All in all, before setting off, ensure your vehicle is in good shape. Image: Aaron Schubert

Have fun and do the right thing. Remember to take stock of your behaviour – if what you’re doing is not sustainable, the track or campsite will ultimately close and will be no longer available for off-road adventurers like yourself!

If you see someone doing the wrong thing, carefully report them. Don’t put yourself in danger or confront them, just take a note of their details. Reporting is a part of keeping this great land beautiful for ourselves, each other, and future generations.

Have you got some tips to add to this list?

The post Outback Etiquette & Leaving No Trace appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So… why is it often hard to find a campsite that isn’t packed in like sardines? The answer is pretty simple, really – it all boils down to access. If there’s a bitumen road with stacks of signposts and a wealth of information online, you can guarantee that campsite is going to be packed in the peak seasons.

To me, camping is about getting away from it all. I don’t want to be within 50 metres of anyone else if I can avoid it, let alone a little 4 x 4-metre allotted slot in a caravan park!

To me, camping is about getting away from it all.

If you want to get away from the crowds, you need to improve your level of access. You can do this in one of two ways:

1. Increase where you can get to
2. Travel to the lesser-known spots

There is only a small part of Australia that is accessible by a sealed road – which means to see the rest of it, you’ve got to get off the beaten track. How do you do that? The easiest, safest, and best way is in a 4WD!

Be it a stunning beach, isolated campsite along some inland river, or camping near one of Australia’s beautiful gorges – a 4WD opens up the access you have to campsites all over Australia, not to mention the activities you can do in between.

Be it a stunning beach, isolated campsite along some inland river, or camping near one of Australia’s beautiful gorges – a 4WD opens access to campsites all over Australia.

How Does a 4WD Provide More Access?

Knowing you can safely take your 4WD down a rough track or drive along the beach provides the confidence to access a whole new world. Instead of being tied to bitumen roads, you can deflate your tyres, lock the hubs, and explore!

If you think you’ve seen the best beaches in Australia on postcards, wait until you see what you can access with a 4WD. Access via 2WD in Australia has nothing on what you can see from a 4WD.

1. Clearance

The primary issue with 2WD vehicles is the lack of clearance between the ground and the lowest point of your vehicle. There are a lot of campsites in Australia that you could probably get a 2WD vehicle into, but the chances of damaging something underneath your vehicle are substantially increased.

With a 4WD, you have at least double the clearance of a 2WD vehicle – rocks, holes, and rough tracks aren’t nearly as much of a concern. I don’t want to be concerned about damaging a vehicle by driving it where it wasn’t intended to go!

Instead of being tied to bitumen roads – deflate your tyres, lock the hubs, and explore!

2. Traction

With a 4WD, all four wheels are driven as opposed to only two on a 2WD vehicle. If you have both clearance and traction, you can go pretty much anywhere. Lose one or the other, and you are in trouble!

On tracks where traction is limited, a 4WD vehicle is substantially safer than a 2WD. A typical example is the thousands of kilometres of gravel roads. Some are flat and smoother than the average bitumen road, while many will shake your bones apart! That’s not to say you shouldn’t take a 2WD vehicle on gravel roads, but you do need to be more cautious. A 4WD’s tyres are intended for rough tracks and have the ability to deflate the air safely, which further improves traction.

3. Durability

I believe in using a vehicle for its intended purpose. Whilst you might be able to take your 2WD vehicle on some rough tracks, how long will it last? A 4WD is designed to be driven on rough terrain and built worlds apart from your average 2WD vehicle.

Shock absorbers are probably the best example, with 4WD shock absorbers heating well over 100 degrees on rough corrugations. How long do you think a 2WD version will last?

Crossing the Pentecost River is an achievable feat with the right rugged vehicle. 

Benefits of a 4WD

1. Better Opportunities for Day Travel

In between campsites, we love to travel. Whether it’s just to explore a beautiful region like Murchison House station in Kalbarri, or finding a secluded spot on the beach, a 4WD allows you to take your gear for the day and find a slice of Australian paradise.

2. Storage and Accessories

A 4WD has more storage space, especially with the addition of a roof rack. It’s also easier to install a fridge and a second battery, along with awnings, lights, and so much more. I’ve camped out of a 2WD vehicle on many occasions, but I’d never go back – the comfort and enjoyment you get out of camping from a 4WD is so worth it!

3. 4WDing is Fun!

Until you’ve been 4WDing, you won’t know what you’re missing out on. You don’t need to undertake a full-fledged 4WD course to explore a large majority of Australia. For the most part, you’ll just need some basic gear, a few safety considerations, and a well-thought-out plan. There’s something about cruising down the beach or navigating up a muddy slope that has you grinning from ear to ear every time!

A 4WD allows you to take your gear for the day and find a slice of Australian paradise.

Where Can You Go in a 4WD?

We’re lucky that Australia is very open to 4WDs. There are tracks all over the country, and as long as it’s not private property, fenced off, or under local regulations that prevent adventurers passing through, it’s open for business. That said, where you take your 4WD should suit its capabilities, your skills, and basic common sense.

Beaches are a brilliant place to take your 4WD, but if you aren’t aware of the tides you can end up in all sorts of strife! National parks are home to some fantastic 4WD tracks and campsites – but again, stick to where you’re allowed to and you’ll have no issues.

I find that campsites in the long run don’t offer a true camping experience!

Caravan Park or Private Bush Camp?

There are caravan parks all over the country. Some are great, and some fall way below the mark. We tend to avoid them normally, and will head to lesser-known campsites where available. These sites are substantially cheaper, or free. There are fewer people, and the scenery is almost always better.

We do make a habit of calling into a caravan park from time to time, though; it’s nice to have a break, wash your clothes with ease, have a good shower, and swim in the pool! I have nothing against camping in caravan parks, but I find that in the long run they are expensive and don’t offer a true camping experience!

Nonetheless, more preparation is required if you are camping in the bush. There’s no issue if you’re self-sufficient, but things like water, toilets, cooking, and showers need to be considered.

More preparation is required if you are camping in the bush.

Finding a Lesser-Known Campsite

There’s never been an easier time to find the perfect campsite. Gone are the days where you need a book with a list of places to camp – apps have by far surpassed that.

WikiCamps

If you haven’t already, do yourself a favour and download WikiCamps! It’s free for a trial, and with just a few bucks you can access over 8000 listed campsites across Australia. To top it all off, it’s contributed to by those who use it every day. You can often find up-to-date photos and reviews of the places you want to travel to and explore. Every day, more camp sites, reviews, and photos are added!

With Google Earth – find an area you want to go to, look for tracks, and mark out possible campsites.

Google Earth

If you’ve not used Google Earth to find a campsite, give it a go. Find a beautiful area you want to go to, look for tracks, and mark out possible campsites. We’ve found some truly epic campsites this way – although, occasionally, you arrive at a fence or realise it’s not actually possible to get there!

Google Search Engine

Google is a fantastic resource these days. Pick anywhere you want and type it in (for example, ‘Bunbury Camping’). Guaranteed, if more than a few people go there a year, there will be some information available on the net about it.

For more info on the variety of useful outdoor apps available, check out this blog here.

Every day, more camp sites, reviews, and photos are added to WikiCamps!

Chat to the Locals

Believe it or not, one of the most effective ways to find that perfect campsite is to chat to people along the way. They are almost always friendly, and appreciate a bit of a chat.

Time to Head Out There!

With a 4WD and the above tools, the world’s your oyster! Next time you are planning a trip away, don’t limit yourself to the bitumen road and well-known tourist attractions. Get off the beaten track in a 4WD and you will thank yourself for it!

Of course, planning makes all the difference. Do your own thorough research and you’ll have a ball.

See you out there!

With a 4WD and the above tools, the world’s your oyster!

Where do you go to get away from the crowds… or is it too good to give away?

The post How to Avoid Crowded Campsites: Switch to 4WDing! appeared first on Snowys Blog.

When it comes to planning a trip away, some people are happy simply with a destination in mind and some rough dates. Others have the planning down to a fine art. The planning process can be as defined as you want it to be, and it’s vastly dependent on your circumstances. For example, if you have very young children you learn to plan your trips a little more than if you have the freedom to arrive at camp halfway through the night! Driving late at night looking for a campsite with a screaming toddler in the back typically isn’t a good time!

Have a detailed plan in place and the flexibility to throw it out the window as things change (and they will!). If you don’t put the effort into researching and planning early on, you could miss out on some amazing opportunities and places.

The planning process can be as defined as you want it to be, and it’s vastly dependent on your circumstances. Image: Aaron Schubert

Where to Start?

A longer trip away might seem a bit disconcerting to start with, but if you take your time and plan well, it’s easily achievable. It all begins with an idea: a place that you want to see, an experience you want to have, or some friends or family that you want to catch up with. From there, cover the below steps and let the planning begin.

Budgeting

What can you afford to do? Some travel a lap of Australia for less than $1000 per week, some up around $1500 per week, and others end up spending a lot more. The number of meals you eat out, how many attractions you see or experiences you have, how far you travel and the type of accommodation you stay at will all be impacted by your budget.

As a general rule, 30% of your budget will go to food, 30% will go to fuel, 20% to accommodation, and maybe 10% to entertainment or experiences. The remaining 10% will spread out across things like mobile phone bills, insurance, maintenance, or just purchasing or replacing things as you travel (you will definitely need to upgrade your fishing and camping gear!).

No one can tell you exactly how much you need, but you won’t need a full vault-load of cash to do it. It comes down to your tastes, style, and frequency/distance of travel.

If you take your time and plan well, an extended trip away is easily achievable. Image: The Todoing Family

Locations and Time of Year

You may already have a list of places that you want to visit. Call it a bucket list, or just some favourites – whatever it is, there’s more than enough to see in Australia. The key is to match your location to the right time of year. Get that nailed early on, and you’ll be off to a cracking start.

Australia has some obvious and distinct weather patterns. If you head to a great destination at the wrong time of year, you might find it doesn’t live up to your expectations. You can be hammered with winds, sitting in sand (white, yellow, red, or any colour in between), scorched by the sun, or pelted by rain. If you’re in a caravan or camper trailer, ensure it can stand up to the worst days – or have a plan to withstand the hot nights, chilly evenings, or washed-away days! Ultimately, everything works – just go in with what works for you, and whoever you’re travelling with. If it’s just a tent, so be it – it is so worth the effort!

The northern part of Australia is normally best experienced in the dry season. This runs from May to October each year. In the wet season, a lot of the roads are closed and you’ll cop hot weather and torrential rainfall! Summer in Perth is warm, so most head south to where it’s cooler – but come wintertime, watch how many people jump in their cars and head north in search of balmy days and sunshine while the rest of the country freezes through winter!

If you want to visit multiple locations, put every destination down to start with and narrow it down as you go. There are so many beautiful places to stay, but you can’t do them all. Also, beware of the crowds! It’s not fun as a lapping traveller to turn up with everyone else at a location, experience, or accommodation spot. Consider school holidays, weekends, and public holidays where crowds might be present.

Everything works – if it’s just a tent, so be it! Image: Aaron Schubert

A location such as Karijini can be hot, cold, or underwater depending on the time of year. Image: Aaron Schubert

Annual Leave and Time Off

The majority of working Australians are entitled to four precious weeks of annual leave a year. This is a major factor to consider when planning your trip away. If you want a really long trip away, you may need to go more than a year without any leave. Can you cope with that? How long do you have available? Is it months, a year, or maybe more? Australia is a massive country – you can literally spend years covering it and still not see everything! If the plan is to complete a lap of Australia, decide how long you have available first. Then, use this as a guide for breaking up the lap. Think about how you can maximise your annual leave – make use of public holidays and shift patterns (if applicable).

When you have a rough plan of where you’re going and how much time you’re taking off, book your annual leave. The earlier you do this, the better. Time creeps up faster than we expect! The more time you have to get things ready and plan an amazing holiday, the better.

Preparation

Australia is a big place. Don’t plan a trip without knowing that your 4WD and gear are up to the task, or that they will be by the time you leave. You’d be mad to head somewhere remote without the right gear to travel safely and comfortably.

Have a good think about facilities available. Some places do not have toilets and require grey water collection. Are you set up for that? Also, make sure that the gear and clothing you take cover the type of weather you’re due to experience!

Don’t plan a trip without knowing that your 4WD and gear are up to the task! Image: Aaron Schubert

In Episode 44 of the Snowys Camping Show, Ben unpacked his half-lap across Northern and Western Australia:

What to See and Do

Once the trip is booked in, you need to fill the gaps in and around each of your chosen locations. What is it that you want to see and do? You won’t fit everything in, but write it all down and prioritise it later on. Itineraries are great, but not for everyone. At least know the must-do’s for the trip, so you can budget to be in the right place for the right time.

You will find a whole new world of information from Google, Facebook, Instagram, WikiCamps, YouTube, and various blogs. There are a lot of apps, books, maps and resources out there. Visit information centres whenever you enter a new town or region too.

A simple Word document works fantastically for any information you might read or find useful. You can then read it throughout the trip to determine what you want to do.

Transport and Housing

Consider what you travel in and where you’ll stay a capital expense before heading off. From people in tents, whizbangs, and station wagons, to campers, caravans, buses, and motorhomes – you can travel around Australia in all of them. A full-size caravan, for example, can offer the simplicity of setup and space for a school-aged family of 5.

However, if you’re travelling in a 4WD and visiting somewhere popular (especially in peak season), you need to sort your accommodation options ASAP. Find out what needs booking, research where the best places are, and book them in! Some parks are booked out up to three months in advance!

Your choice of where to stay each night is pivotal to having an amazing trip away. Some of the best camping destinations in the world are in Australia, but you need to find them! Sometimes, you’ll stumble across them – but more often than not it takes prior research and local knowledge!

Your choice of where to stay each night is pivotal to having an amazing trip away. Image: The Todoing Family

How Fast and Frequently Will You Move?

Firstly, a spreadsheet works extremely well for planning this sort of thing. You can also note down each location, mark whether it needs to be booked, when you’ve booked it, where you’re likely to find fuel and water, and where you’ll drive to and from each day. Note down where you will stock up on food, what needs doing before you leave, what needs packing, and anything else that’s relevant to you.

Sometimes, a spreadsheet will also reveal massive days of driving – this allows time to make changes. For example, if you dedicate one year to a full lap of Australia, try moving every two to three days on average. With more time, you could attempt moving every four to five days. Sometimes an overnighter is necessary, or two nights somewhere instead of one. Each location feels or needs its own time sometimes! Think about your setup, pack up, and time for the lap – then work out how often you should be moving around.

Don’t Cram!

You won’t be able to do everything you first list down, and you will have to cull a few things. Make a habit of having a list of things you want to do and working your way down the list at each location.

Yes, you can do a lap of Australia in three months – but there’s something in seeing more of less and coming back another time, as opposed to only catching a glimpse of every part of Australia.

  Have a list of things you want to do and work your way down the list at each location. Image: The Todoing Family

There’s something in seeing more of less, as opposed to only seeing a glimpse of everything. Image: Aaron Schubert

Stock Up and Pack

Once you’re confident about where you are going, what you’re doing, and you’ve booked your leave, you can start to get ready. Buy long-lasting food in the months leading up to your trip to save money – look out for specials, and buy what you need. The more gradual your preparation, the better your chances are of doing it well!

Ensure everything you want to take fits properly in your 4WD, and that you aren’t overloaded!

Have a good think about aligning what you take to the nature of the locations you are going to. For example: if there are complete fire bans, taking a heap of cooking gear for over the fire isn’t a good idea. On the other hand, if you’re due to spend lots of time at the beach, perhaps a kayak or paddleboard would be worth taking.

Trial Runs

If you haven’t done much camping before, smaller trips beforehand are the best way to work out what’s good and what isn’t. Take a notepad every time you travel and make a note of things that can be improved or replaced. It’s an ongoing process – so the more you practice, the better you get at it.

No matter how good your planning is, you won’t get everything right. Some campsites you pick might not live up to their reputation, some drives will take far longer than you planned for, and your kids might decide they’ve had enough of driving for the day sooner than you hoped or predicted! That’s okay – you can’t control these things, so you need enough flexibility in your plans to adapt as things change.

A shorter trip will help prepare you for the bigger one! Image: Aaron Schubert

Get Out There!

Whether you are heading away for a week or 10, these are the basics of planning a long trip – no matter your time frame. Some thorough planning will make a world of difference to your trip. Aside from that, it provides the motivation and something to look forward to as the days tick over in the lead-up to your departure date!

Do you have any great planning tips for a longer adventure? 

The post Planning a Long 4WD, Caravan, or Camping Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Today’s tent designs are diverse and innovative, and knowing what to look for in a tent can be overwhelming. That said, there are still some golden rules you can follow when it comes to tent selection and preparation, both in the shop and before you hit the track.

There are still some golden rules you can follow when it comes to tent selection and preparation. Image: Coleman

Tent Size:

When purchasing your tent, be aware that the stated capacity (i.e. 2-person, 4-person, 8-person, etc.) is generally based on the absolute maximum capacity.

• This won’t include space for storing a rucksack, cooking and eating space, or room for getting changed or packing up.
• A 2-person tent will sleep 2 people – no more.
• If you need room to throw your rucksack or swing the proverbial cat, make sure you select a tent that is at least ½ to 1 person larger than the intended sleeping party.

Tent Rating:

Many tents are rated in a 2-, 3-, or 4-season fashion. This is a guide to understanding the suitability of the tent to weather conditions.

• A 2-season tent will generally be suited to warmer, dryer seasons like summer and late spring/early autumn. They’ll feature adequate ventilation, a lightweight design, and have only some protection against rain and wind.
• A 3-season tent will be a little more rugged and perhaps feature a combination of ventilation and weather resistance. A decent 3-season tent should repel rain and hold up in a stiff wind.
• A 4-season tent should be able to handle alpine or snow conditions. Its base will be more solid and its design will be stout and stable. Superior rain and snow resistance should feature. It will often be heavier too, as a result of the weather-proof materials.
• For more information, check out the blog on Understanding Tent Types and Ratings.

A decent 3-season tent should repel rain and hold up in a stiff wind. Image: Coleman

Tent Weight:

On the subject of weight, we know that tents are becoming lighter as fabric and pole technology evolves.

• Weight is a major factor for hikers and those who want to keep their pack-weight to a minimum.
• If you’re camping out of a car or simply ‘base-camping’ without lugging your tent around every day, don’t worry too much about weight. Why pay more for something that you won’t benefit from?

Spares and Accessories:

Most tent kits are sold with all poles and pegs included – you shouldn’t have to worry about buying these separately.

• If you decide to take a few spare pegs, this a great idea. Consider investing in a groundsheet (see more on that later in this piece).
• A small hammer to knock in your pegs is a great idea too, especially if pack-weight isn’t an issue.

Tent Preparation:

Before you leave for your adventure, practice pitching your tent for the first time at home, or a friend’s house.

• This will help you familiarize yourself with all the components, and ensure you have everything you need.
• You’ll feel far more confident setting it up in the bush if you’ve done it already, and you’ll remember any of the mistakes you made the first time around!
• Take special note of how the tent was folded when you first unpacked it. Tents often have a preferred method of storage, and some will be difficult to pack up if you fold them the wrong way.
• A ‘dry-run’ at home is also an opportunity to dispose of any plastic/cardboard packaging the tent may have been sold with. It’ll be impossible to dispose of on the track, and it’ll just take up extra weight and space in your pack or vehicle.

Practice pitching your tent for the first time at home, or a friend’s house. Image: Coleman

There’s more to pitching a tent than just picking a camping spot with a great view. Safety and comfort must also be primary concerns when selecting your tent site.

Choose Your Site Carefully

As a minimum, you’ll need a flat area of ground with enough space for your tent – plus a bare patch for your entry/exit door.

Can’t Find Flat Ground?

Make sure to orient your tent so you’re sleeping with your head up-hill and your feet down-hill. Sleeping ‘upside-down’ is very uncomfortable, and sideways to a slope will mean you roll off your sleeping mat mid-slumber!

Whatever you do, don’t pitch your tent…

• Under gum trees – they will drop limbs, often in the cold of night and without warning. You don’t want to be under one if this happens.
• On ridgelines, hilltops and saddles – while spectacular, these are highly exposed locations. You’ll feel the full brunt of wind, rain, and lightning. If you must pitch in an exposed location, find a spot just below a ridgeline or high point, ideally in the lee of the wind.
• In dry creek beds – flash flooding can occur throughout Australia at any time of the year. Don’t risk fate.
• Too close to active watercourses – especially if the weather has been wet. They can rise surprisingly fast and wash an unlucky camper away overnight!

As a minimum, you’ll need a flat area of ground with enough space for your tent. Image: Coleman

Keep Clear of Your Campfire or Stove

Most tents will not survive a naked flame or even a stray ember. Pick a site well clear of these campsite essentials.

Protect Your Tent Floor

Clear away sticks and stones. A groundsheet is a good idea – these are canvas (or similar) sheets, which are sometimes bundled with tents but often sold separately (check out some of our package deals). They will have the same footprint as your tent and will take the brunt of the dirt, moisture, and damage to the underside of your tent. They will also contribute a little to keeping you warm at night, mildly insulating from the cold earth.

Ben and Lauren discuss groundsheets on the Snowys Camping Show podcast:

You’ve chosen your tent and you’ve found a campsite – it’s now time to actually set up your tent, pack it away, and learn good tent maintenance.

As mentioned, today’s tent designs are more diverse and innovative than ever – so knowing how to pitch one with minimum fuss sometimes takes practice!

Let’s Pitch Your Tent!

1. Unroll your tent on to your groundsheet. Once oriented, notice that the bottom of the tent has its own peg loops. It’s a good idea to knock the corner pegs into the ground before any ‘side’ and remaining pegs on the tent’s base.
2. Now for your poles. Most tents will require you to either straighten out sets of poles held together with elastic roping, or just click together the sections to form a single pole.
3. Most modern tents have sleeves or plastic clips running around their exterior. Once your poles are assembled, look for any colour-coded sleeves corresponding to pole colours. These will indicate which sleeves you’ll need to feed the poles through. If there isn’t colour-coding or matching symbols, just go ahead and insert your poles as required.
4. Poles will often interface with the tent’s base near the peg loops, sometimes with small metal rings (to house pole-end spigots) or small metal spigots which insert into the end of a hollow pole. Look for these, and allow the poles to flex and insert as required.

Poles will often interface with the tent’s base near the peg loops. Image: Oztent

By now, your tent should be looking like… a tent!

Hopefully, you can see your tent taking shape after inserting and/or clipping the poles to the tent’s outer sleeves. You’re almost finished.

1. The tent’s fly is like its raincoat. It will keep the tent itself dry and warm. It will also protect the fabric from the worst of the sun and extend the life of your tent. Most of the time, it’s a good idea to put your tent fly on. You may only want to leave it off if you are 100% sure of good, dry weather or if it’s a very hot night! Most tents are sold complete with fly.
2. Most tent flies are installed by simply placing them over the tent, bringing the edges down to the ground and knocking in the pegs through the peg loops provided. Again – attempt the corners first, then the sides.
3. Because they bear the brunt of the weather, tent flies also have guy ropes. These stabilise the tent, help keep the fly separate from the tent itself, and minimise the fly flapping in the wind. Guy ropes are thin ropes with a small figure-8-type metal buckle, which has them adjustable in length. This is handy for exact positioning of the pegs, as well as tensioning the rope to maximise your tent’s stability in windy conditions.
4. Finally, pack up all your tent bags (pole bag, peg bag, tent bag, etc.) and store them in a safe place within your tent. Done!

Packing, Storage, and Maintenance

Packing up your tent is very much the same as pitching it, only in reverse.

• It’s a skill to fold and roll up your tent to fit back into its bag. Take note of how it originally came folded and rolled – this is often the best way to pack it up.
• When packing up a wet tent, there are good and not-so-good ways to approach this. Consider pre-folding the tent so that dry parts stay in contact with dry parts, and wet parts fold against wet parts. This can help to ensure that it’s dryer next time you set it up.
• On arriving home, always set up your tent and/or wash it, and let it air-dry once. If you don’t have space to set it up, hang it from a few points on the washing line if you have to. Leaving it packed up and dirty will encourage the growth of mildew and rot, which will ruin your investment!
• Setting your tent up at home post-trip is also your opportunity to identify any holes or tears in the fabric. Most tents are sold with a repair kit included; make use of it and your tent will remain safe and dry for as long as you need it!

Each tent has its own unique characteristics. Image: Coleman

If you need further information to the above, I encourage you to read through the tent’s manuals and documentation to ensure your investment is protected. Each tent will have its own unique characteristics.

The friendly staff at Snowys can also help you with pointers and clarification on anything we’ve discussed. Enjoy your new tent in the great outdoors (and don’t trip over those guy ropes)!

Ready to hit the road with your new tent? Do you have a tent that’s tricky to pitch? Tell us about it in the comments section below.

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Pitching a Tent appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The title of this article, let alone the content, makes us shudder. However, it’s an irrational fear; there are rarely any deaths by snakes in Australia. According to official records too, it’s been over forty years since anyone in Australia died from a spider bite!

It’s vital for any camper or hiker to know what to do if a snake or spider bites you – and even more so, what to do to avoid that situation in the first place. 

It’s vital for any camper or hiker to know what to do if a snake or spider bites you. Image: Exped

Snake Survival

Knowing a little bit about snake behaviour and adopting these easy tips could not only save your life but also help you camp with more confidence.

1. Wear Appropriate Clothing

Nearly all snake bites occur on the ankles, hands, and lower parts of the legs so covering these areas will significantly reduce the possibility of snake venom entering your bloodstream.

You might think you need to wear metal armour to prevent a snake from injecting venom, but most venomous snakes in Australia have relatively short fangs and tend to wipe venom into the wound rather than inject it deep into the skin. A good pair of gaiters or jeans will further help to prevent an Australian snake from penetrating the skin.

It goes without saying that you should wear closed footwear. Not only will this protect your feet, but create more vibrations than sandals or thongs. Vibrations help to scare snakes away before you reach them.

2. Carry First-Aid

Whether you’re going for a short hike or a long camping trip, it’s a good idea to be prepared for the possibility of a snake bite. Your first-aid kit should contain compression immobilisation bandages. In fact, heavy crepe bandages are ideal.

Closed shoes and gaiters are a must when heading into snake territory. Image: Keen

3. Carry Some Form of Communication

If you’re in an area with no mobile reception, try to source another form of communication – or at least let someone, such as a Park Ranger, know your movements. A PLB is an important piece of kit to carry if you’re heading to remote areas.

If bitten, one of the crucial things is to keep the injured limb immobilised. You’ll need to stay still, then use a PLB to call for help.

4. Be Vigilant When Hiking

Snakes are incredibly shy creatures. Most will feel your foot vibrations and get out of the way before you even see them. There are exceptions though – when snakes are just warming up, they can be slower to react to your presence. If taken by surprise, they can strike without warning.

The main tip for hiking is to watch where you’re walking. When hiking over logs and rocks, it’s a good idea to step on the log and then over it to ensure you can first see the other side. Some snakes may also hide in nooks of rock faces, or sun themselves on rock ledge. Always make sure you can see where you’re putting your hands, or wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt if you’re climbing a rocky path.

Of course, watching where you walk is easier said than done. When you’re bushwalking, you’re usually looking at your surroundings, not where you’re putting your feet – which is why it’s important to carry first-aid equipment and wear proper protection.

Keeping your site clean is hugely important to prevent snakes from hiding in and under your gear. Image: Coleman

5. Keep Your Campsite Clean

Snakes love mice. Leaving rubbish around the camping ground can attract rodents and, by extension, snakes. There are many reasons to keep your campsite clean – but if you ever needed an additional incentive, this is it! Snakes also like to hide under things, so keep picnic rugs and other items off the ground when you’re away from the campsite.

6. Check Your Sleeping Bags & Boots

As snakes see humans as a threat, it’s incredibly unlikely that one will enter a campsite while you’re there. That said, they could curl up in warm places like sleeping bags if left out in the open while you’re away. It’s always a good idea to keep sleeping bags closed in your tent or the back of the car while you’re out hiking. If you forget, shaking them out is good practice… just to ensure you don’t cuddle up with any unwanted visitors at night!

The same goes for shoes. Boots are a bit like hollow logs, and even a metre long snake could hide inside one. If you’re paranoid (like me), stuff socks in your boots at night and shake them out in the morning.

7. Be Careful When Collecting Firewood

If you have permission to collect firewood, it’s a good idea to wear a long-sleeved shirt and gloves. 

If collecting wood at night, I always carry a torch or wear a headlamp to ensure I can see where I’m putting my hands… and that the stick I’m picking up is indeed a stick!

As snakes see humans as a threat, it’s incredibly unlikely that one will enter a campsite while you’re there.

Treat All Snakes With Caution

Even if they’re tiny, treat all snakes as potentially dangerous. Baby snakes are just as dangerous as adults – if not more so. This is partly because they’re more difficult to spot, but tend to be more skittish and unpredictable too.

Even dead snakes should be considered dangerous. Snakes can still have biting reflexes, and venom can remain on the fangs long after death.

Steps to Take When Encountering a Snake

1. Stay calm, back away, and wait for it to move. Snakes will only strike humans when they feel threatened.
2. Don’t provoke it or make any sudden movements they could perceive as a threat.
3. Never try to kill a snake. Like all native animals, they’re protected – but the majority of bites occur when people try to kill them.
4. If the snake doesn’t move, don’t poke it with a stick or shovel. Many snakes can strike quickly from a distance.
5. While foot-stamping might encourage a snake to move off a track, only do this if you are a far distance from it (i.e. at least several metres). It can still be seen as a threatening action, especially if the snake is cornered.

Heads up! Ben and Lauren also discuss how to handle creepy crawlies at the campsite in Episode 31 of the Snowys Camping Show:

Treating a Snake Bite

1. Treat all suspected snakebites as life-threatening.
2. In Australia, bites might just look like a superficial scratch and not the two puncture wounds you might expect.
3. Apply a pressure immobilisation bandage to the limb immediately, splint the limb, and call an ambulance.
4. Even in a remote location, you should keep the limb immobilised, and stay calm and still.
5. The bandage should be applied to the whole length of the limb, and be as tight as you would strap a sprained ankle.
6. Never wash or cut the wound, as the hospital uses any venom on the skin to identify the snake.
7. Don’t suck out the venom, and don’t apply a tourniquet instead of an immobilisation bandage.

For more specific information, first-aid courses are a good idea.

Managing Your Fear of Snakes

It might be reassuring to know that even though Australians love the outdoors and their country is infamous for its venomous snakes – there are far fewer deaths in Australia than there are in America, India, Africa, and many other countries.

It’s rare for Australian snakes to strike. It’s even more uncommon for the fangs to penetrate clothing and the skin. When they do, most snakes don’t actually inject any venom – and if they do, it’s in such small volumes that antivenom isn’t needed.

Bites from redbacks are far more common than those from funnel-web spiders.

Spider Safety

There are an estimated 10,000 species of spiders across Australia. Six of which are deemed to be dangerous, but only two have lethal venom that can be life-threatening to young children, the elderly, people of ill-health, and your beloved pooch. Unsurprisingly, these two are the funnel-web spider and the redback spider.

Bites from redbacks are far more common than those from funnel-web spiders but this is likely due to their preference to inhabit more populated areas. It is only the female redback whose venom is toxic to humans, and antivenom was introduced in 1956 with a funnel-web antivenom following more than 20-years later in 1980. Both antivenoms are very effective and, in most instances, bites are now successfully treated.

Being able to identify a type of spider and having some understanding of how they behave is worthwhile knowledge. Adopting basic preventative measures will lessen your risk of being bitten, but recognising the signs, symptoms, and knowing how to treat a bite is essential for all adventurers.

Prevention

Keeping your gear maintained and stored well will help to detract these eight-legged arachnids from settling in areas regularly interrupted by you.

Be extra vigilant during the warmer months when spiders are most active. Awareness is key and understanding where spiders are most likely to hang out is the best way to leave them alone and prevent getting bitten.

Spider Hotspots:

• Funnel-webs prefer to be close to the ground and burrow under logs and rocks where it is cool and moist.
• Redback spider webs are created by the female and can be recognised by the dense matrix of threads with channels leading downwards from the surface. They are found in dry, dark and sheltered spaces.
• Home – letterboxes, discarded toys that have been left outside, the folds of a camping chair, the exterior corners of a caravan or camper trailer that’s been stored for a while, inside helmets, work gloves, tools, etc.
• Camping – old tin cans, sheets of corrugated iron, farm machinery, old tyres, fences and gates, bush amenities like long-drop toilets and donkey shower setups, etc.

Old sheds and forgotten tools are hotspots for spiders. Image: Franz W

How to Avoid a Bite:

Do:

• Keep your campsite clean and tidy
• Chat with your kids about spiders (and snakes) – show them pictures of what to look out for
• Check your gear – give it a shake before putting it on or packing it away
• Care for your gear, store it properly, and use lidded tubs
• Keep your tent or swag zipped up
• Wear shoes
• Keep an eye on your dog and check their bedding regularly

Don’t:

• Leave your work or hiking boots on the ground outside your tent or swag, especially overnight
• Manage firewood without gloves
• Never put your hands and feet where you can’t see
• Flick a spider with your hand

Encountering a Spider – and Managing it!

• Take a deep breath!
• Stay calm and assess the situation – reacting recklessly through fear will likely end with you being bitten.
• If the spider is on an easily transportable bit of kit i.e. your jacket, chair, table, or bag, place it on the ground away from where you are. If the spider doesn’t crawl off and away of its own accord, you can gently encourage it to do so with a fallen branch, stick or roll of newspaper. If the spider becomes aggressive and rises ready to attack, walk away and leave it alone! You can go back and check on it later as it will probably crawl away on its own. Look over your item carefully before picking it back up.
• If the spider is inside your tent or on your vehicle, a dustpan and broom work well to brush the spider away, or carefully trap it for long enough that you can move outside and flick it off into a bush.

I know your first instinct may be to kill, kill, kill but remember… funnel-web spiders can become aggressive if/when they feel threatened. Redbacks too, but to a lesser degree.

Common spider bite symptoms include itchiness, redness, and mild swelling.

Signs & Symptoms of a Spider Bite

It is not a spider’s intention to ‘take on’ a human! They are far more scared of us than we are of them. But when they sense a threat, they react with the universal survival response – attack or defend! For spiders like the redback or funnel-web, they defend themselves in the same way they attack their prey – by injecting venom to paralyse/immobilise.

Spider venom is a concoction of many different chemicals and broadly speaking, these are grouped into two main categories:

• Necrotic – this is the type of venom that affects the cells and skin tissue around the bite. Reactions vary from the skin becoming topically inflamed, to blisters and/or abnormal growths on the skin’s surface. There’s a popular myth surrounding the white-tailed spider whose venom is necrotic. Despite the fear and stories, there is no evidence that the bite from a white-tail creates a ‘flesh eating’ reaction. Instead, you are more likely to experience some redness and a mild burning sensation, followed by itching.
• Neurotoxic – this venom is fast-acting and attacks the nervous system. Funnel-webs and redbacks both possess this type of venom and in extreme cases, it can lead to respiratory issues or cardiac arrest.

Common Symptoms:

• Pain – mild burning sensation or a pulsating ache with swelling
• Itchiness
• Redness
• Mild swelling

More Severe Symptoms:

• Profuse sweating
• Severe escalating pain that emanates and progresses from the bite site
• Nausea and/or vomiting
• Muscular weakness
• Fever
• Headaches
• Abdominal or chest pain
• Increased blood pressure

Particularly Acute Cases:

• Loss of consciousness
• Seizures
• Respiratory failure

If you’re bitten by a funnel-web spider, apply a compression bandage over the area of the bite.

Treating a Spider Bite

For most spider bites, treatment is straightforward. However, for spiders that inject highly toxic venom which acts rapidly, it’s essential to respond immediately with the right treatment.

Basic First Aid:

• Stay calm and reassure the person who has been bitten whilst also making them comfortable.
• Spiders can bite repeatedly so make sure there is no further danger or threat.
• Try and identify the spider – take a photo or capture it inside an empty jar using the technique described here.
• Seek medical assistance especially for babies, young kids, the elderly, anyone with existing health issues or for those showing severe/acute symptoms.

Funnel-Web Spider Bite:

You want to slow down the movement of venom through the lymphatic system by doing what is known as the pressure immobilisation technique. This treatment is the same for mouse spiders.

• Apply a compression bandage over the area of the bite.
• Use a second bandage to wrap from the lower limb upwards – you’re aiming to cover as much of the entire limb as you can, and to wrap as tightly as possible without restricting blood flow.
• Apply a splint to the leg or arm – you may need a third bandage to secure the splint or whatever you can find.
• Keep the patient comfortable, calm and rested.
• Monitor them closely and watch for signs of deterioration or disorientation.
• Call, radio, or send an alert for emergency assistance – PLBs or Satellite Messenger devices can save your life when you are remote and without a mobile signal.

It’s recommended by St John that you do not apply pressure if the bite is on a person’s head or torso. Their First Aid Fact Sheet for Spider Bites can be found here and may be worth printing off and stashing inside your kit.

The redback and funnel-web spider defend themselves by injecting venom to paralyse or immobilise.

Redback Spider Bite:

Redback spider bites are treated in the same way as most other spider bites and differ from the treatment for funnel-web bites.

• Do not use a compression bandage or immobilisation techniques.
• Apply ice or an icepack to the bite area – no longer than 20 minutes.
• Monitor them closely and watch for signs of deterioration or disorientation.
• Keep the patient comfortable, calm and rested.
• Call, radio, or send an alert for emergency assistance – PLBs or Satellite Messenger devices can save your life when you are remote and without a mobile signal.

FYI:

Let’s get a couple of things straight.

• Vinegar is an effective treatment for jellyfish stings but not for spider bites.
• Do not wash the wound/bite area – if there is any venom residue on the skin’s surface this can be used by medical professionals to determine the type and appropriate treatment.
• Some say vodka is effective on spider bites however this is not recognised as an official treatment and professional first aid advice should always be followed.

Always carry a first-aid kit. Image: Exped

Whenever you’re camping, hiking, touring or road tripping, it’s always smart to carry a first-aid kit. Some, like Mediq, include components for different situations so in the event of a spider bite you can just grab the Snake/Spider Module and have basic first aid on hand.

The majority of spiders are harmless to humans so when you come across a spider, your best response is to give them space and leave them alone. According to the Australian Museum, there are approximately 2000 people bitten by redbacks per year in Australia, and 30-40 people suffer from funnel-web spider bites. These have all been successfully treated since the introduction of antivenoms.

In Summary

If you wear the right clothing, go prepared, and stay vigilant, it’s unlikely you will ever find yourself in a situation where you won’t confidently enjoy your holiday.

In regards to snakes – simply be prepared. Ensure you have both a snake bite and first-aid kit on you at all times. You might even come to love our slithering friends. After all, they really are beautiful creatures – and crucial to the Australian bushland.

Spiders are also beautiful and an essential part of the ecosystem. Let’s respect them and use our knowledge to act during the warmer months to come. Brush up on your first-aid knowledge and in any emergency situation, remember DRS ABCD – Danger, Response, Send for help, Airway, Breathing, CPR, Defibrillation.

Wear the right clothing, go prepared, and stay vigilant. Image: Keen

This article should be used only as a guide. If you do get bitten by a spider or snake, please seek professional medical advice. Special thanks to the Australian Museum and St John Ambulance Australia for their comprehensive online resources when researching this article.

The post Snake and Spider Safety: What Everyone Should Know appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this blog, we bivvy down on how to effectively wash a down sleeping bag for sweeter dreams and squeaky-clean camping trips.

Let’s get down to it…

Your bag is built for adventure, but it’s important to keep it clean. Image: Sea to Summit

What’s Required?

1. Down wash – specialised down wash is formulated to clean and restore the water repellency, without damaging the fill. This is why it’s important to use it instead of conventional detergents.
2. Large front-loading washing machine – Yep, you’re going to have to get yourself down to the local laundromat! Home washing machines are too small, lacking enough circulation of water to clean the bag efficiently. Top-loading washing machines generally also have an agitator, which can damage the baffles on your bag. For these reasons, it’s best to avoid them.
3. Front-loading dryer – It’s ideal to use the biggest dryer you have available to you. If you’re finding you need to stuff it into your dryer, it’s too small and the bag won’t dry efficiently. This can cause damage to your bag.
4. Tennis balls or wool dryer balls – this is to ensure that the down doesn’t clump together as it dries.

You’ll need some down wash, tennis or dryer balls, a large front loader, and a front-loading dryer.

What to Avoid

• Bleach, conventional detergents, or washing powder
• Top-loading washing machines
• Dry-cleaning

Washing Your Down Sleeping Bag in a Large Front Loader Machine

Check the wash instructions on your sleeping bag, as this will provide specific information about what temperature to set the machine and the settings to apply.

1. Turn the bag inside out and put it in the machine
2. Ensure there isn’t residual washing powder in there first, before adding the volume of down wash according to the label
3. Set the machine to the correct temperature, and set to the ‘delicate’ or ‘gentle’ cycle
4. Remove when the cycle has finished, and check it over

Add to the tumble dryer on the ‘low heat’ (‘gentle’) setting, with dryer or tennis balls to prevent clumping

After washing, pop your sleeping bag in a dryer with some tennis balls to prevent clumping.

Handwashing Your Down Sleeping Bag in the Bathtub

1. Turn the bag inside out with all the zips and tabs closed
2. Fill your bathtub with lukewarm water (or whatever temperature the bag’s instructions suggest)
3. Add the recommended volume of down wash
4. Lie the bag out flat in the tub, and gently massage in the wash
5. Leave it to soak for about an hour
6. Drain the tub and fill it will water to rinse the bag
7. Leave to soak in the water for around 15 minutes
8. Gently press on the bag remove the soap, and repeat this a couple of times until no suds remain
9. Drain the tub, then press on the bag gently to remove excess water
10. If your dryer is not big enough, you can take it to your local laundromat. Or, lay it out flat on a drying rack or clothesline in a warm, ventilated area – indoors or outdoors. You will need to give it a gentle shake every now and again to ensure the down doesn’t clump.

A down sleeping bag needs to remain in good condition to perform ideally in severe weather conditions. Image: Sea to Summit

Keeping Your Down Bag in Good Condition

Sleeping Bag Liners

Use a sleeping bag liner every single time you use the bag. This will minimise the sweat and oils from your skin that tarnish the bag and affect its insulation.

Go to Bed Clean!

On a longer trek, this may be tricky to avoid – but try not to sleep in your bag wearing dirty clothing. Wipe down your face and neck with a baby wipe too, as this is where most of the oils can rub off and onto the hood. Essentially, the cleaner you are in your bag, the less dirty your bag will become.

Using a clean liner will prevent oil and dirt from building up inside your newly clean bag. 

Spot Clean

If you do spill or smear something on your bag, spot clean it as soon as you can with a damp cloth.

Air it Out After Use

When you arrive home from a trip, spread your sleeping out to air-dry for a couple of hours. This will dry any residual moisture from sweat or condensation.

If you do spill or smear something on your bag, spot clean it as soon as you can. Image: Sea to Summit

Store it Properly

Avoid storing your bag in its compression stuff sack, as this can damage the down and reduce its performance. Instead, stash it in the larger storage bag that it comes equipped with. This will help to keep the fill in good condition for as long as possible.

That’s all, Folks!

Don’t put off washing your down sleeping bag any longer – just like the feeling of fresh sheets, a freshly laundered bag is going to feel amazing after a vigorous day of adventure!

Just like the feeling of fresh sheets, a freshly laundered bag is going to feel amazing after a vigorous day of adventure! Image: Sea to Summit

When was the last time you washed your down bag (if ever)? Go on, be honest!

The post How to Wash a Down Sleeping Bag appeared first on Snowys Blog.

You’ve just spent the day four-wheel driving the dunes, hiking the track, or swimming with the kids. You’re ready to crash early and get a good night’s sleep, but… it doesn’t quite work out that way.

Sometime in the night, you wake to feel the ground firmly beneath you, and –

Pssssssss…

There’s that tell-tale sound. Your air mattress has sprung a leak. Don’t feel deflated – this blog details how to repair and care for a camp mattress when things fall flat on those full-blown outdoor adventures!

Don’t feel deflated – this blog details how to repair and care for a camp mattress. Image: Exped

Watch our YouTube video for Lauren’s step-by-step guide:

Repairing a Mattress

Repairing a leaky airbed or self-inflating mattress is not as daunting as some may think, and it’s the same straightforward process for both. Most airbeds or self-inflating mattresses come complete with a repair kit. If this is ever misplaced, spares are also available.

The Gear Required:

• Existing repair kit (included with your mattress), or a replacement most suited to your needs, or any kit listed in Step 8.
• Spray bottle
• Standard dishwashing liquid
• Water
• Paper towel
• Texta or permanent marker
• Scissors

Step 1

Inflate the Mattress and Spray it Down

First, inflate the mattress fully so that the air behind the leak is under more pressure to escape. Create a solution in your spray bottle of a squeeze of dishwashing liquid and some water.

Start by spraying down the mat, beginning at the base. This part of the mat was touching the ground, so that’s where the puncture is most likely to be.

Step 2

Locate the Puncture

Work systematically, spraying down the entire mattress and watching for any bubbles – these are created by the escaping air. If you have access to a bath, you could also submerge your mattress into soapy bathwater.

If you know exactly where the leak is, you can bypass these first two steps.

Step 3

Mark the Area

‘X’ marks the spot. Use some paper towel to dry off the area, then the marker to clearly mark the spot to not lose sight of where the leak is.

Step 4

Prepare Your Patch and Deflate

Ideally, cut your patch to the size of a 50-cent coin to achieve a decent amount of coverage around the damaged area. You could also get away with something the size of a 20-cent coin.

Round off your patch and trim away any corner pieces that may get caught and rip off your patch.

Deflate your airbed or mattress as much as possible. If you attempt to repair an inflated mattress, there will be air attempting to force its way out of the puncture. This will compromise the repair job.

Thoroughly dry off the area with paper towel too.

Step 5

Apply the Adhesive

Apply the adhesive to the hole, and spread generously around the area to comfortably accommodate the patch.

Step 6

Allow Adhesive to Become Tacky

Leave for a minute or so to allow the glue to become tacky. If you have ever repaired a bike tube before, you’ll know exactly what this means.

Step 7

Apply the Patch

Stick on the patch and hold it in place for a minute or so, ensuring it is flat and bedded firmly in the glue. Apply a little pressure so the edges are sealed.

Note: We recommend cutting a larger patch than what is displayed in the images, with rounded corners (the patch used in the image above is for demonstration purposes only).

As mentioned, a circular patch about the size of a 50-cent piece is ideal. The patches you’ll find in your repair kit are likely to be much more neutral to blend in with the rest of the mattress.

Step 8

Test!

It’s best to allow 8-10 hours of drying time before you reinflate your mattress, so that the glue and patch have properly sealed around the leak. This ensures a long-lasting repair.

You may be cranky in the morning after that sleepless night – but if you get onto the repair job early enough, the patch can do its thing throughout the day so your mattress is good to go again that night.

If the puncture is more of a tear, run a bead of Seam Grip along its length and allow it to dry thoroughly.

Here are some helpful replacement repair kits, if what’s included with your mattress has gone MIA!

• Elemental Air Mattress Repair Kit – a generic repair kit specifically designed for air mattresses. Includes both a vinyl and velour fabric patch.
• Thermarest Permanent Home Repair Kit – perfect for Thermarest mats but can also be used on other self-inflating mattresses.
• Sea to Summit Sleeping Mat Repair Kit – Designed for Sea to Summit mats with Air Sprung Cells technology.
• Gear Aid Field Repair Kit – a multi-purpose repair kit that can be used on all kinds of fabric so long as it’s not silicone treated.
• Gear Aid Seam Grip + WP Sealer & Adhesive – an essential part of any camper’s kit, this stuff is a multi-purpose adhesive that’ll get you out of a bind every time.

There are a few points to remember when using and storing your self-inflating mattress. Image: Exped

Caring for a Self-Inflating Mattress

Here are a few important things to remember when using and storing your self-inflating mattress.

If you’ve deflated a self-inflating mat, rolled it up, and packed away – you may find that when the time comes to retrieve it from its bag on your next camping trip, it doesn’t want to self-inflate. This is because it has been stored deflated for too long.

Inspect the Area

Survey the area where you plan to sleep on your mattress, and remove any small rocks, stones, grass seeds, or anything else sharp enough to puncture it.

This goes for packing away, too – ensure your mat is clean of any small rocks and seeds prior to rolling it up and packing into its bag. A small stone or grass seed could puncture it while packed.

Carry a Mattress Patch Kit

See above for how to best repair a puncture.

Survey the area where you plan to sleep on your mattress. Image: Geordie Wright

Storing Your Mat

Dry

Ensure your mat is as dry as possible prior to rolling it up and packing away. Doing so could mean it sweats, creating mould on both the mat and the inside of its bag. This causes it to smell and potentially become a health hazard.

Unrolled

When you arrive home from your trip, remove your mat from its bag, unroll it, allow it to self-inflate, and ensure it’s clean.

Clean

Wash or wipe over with a damp cloth, and allow it to properly dry.

Ensure your mat is as dry as possible prior to rolling it up and packing away. Image: Exped

Inflated

…in a cool, dark, and dry place. Given it’s fully inflated, ensure it is touching nothing that might puncture it.

Ideal storage places are:

• A shelf or under a bed (lying flat)
• Behind a couch (standing on its side)
• In a cupboard or behind a closed door (standing on its end)
• Hung up (if the mattress has straps)

Keep the Air Valve Open

Keeping the air valve of the mattress open when in storage will allow the mattress to expand and contract. This allows any moisture inside the mattress to gradually dry out too.

If your mattress is not stored fully inflated, the foam or cells inside may crush. As a result, it may become ineffective the next time it’s in use. This is because they may not expand to allow air in through the valve.

Providing that your mattress is looked after properly, it will suffice for many years! Image: Exped

If your self-inflating mattress doesn’t inflate…

If at any point this happens, you can blow in a few puffs of air yourself for added firmness. These mattresses are not designed to be inflated with an air compressor or other types of inflators.

Providing that your mattress is looked after properly, it will suffice for many years. Next time you head out camping, you’ll be thankful to have stored and looked after your mattress well!

Experienced a few leaky air beds in your time? Got any tips to add to this ‘how to’? 

The post Repairing and Caring for a Camp Mattress appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Even the best quality equipment is susceptible to damage. We have no control over the force that can be bestowed upon us by Mother Nature – nor excited children, come to mention it!

In this blog, we address what comes before the packing process – unpacking the considerations around gear preparation, maintenance, and the best bits to keep in the repair kit!

In this blog, we address what comes before the packing process. Image: Oztent

Your Camp Kitchen

Most of us know how frustrating it is when you can’t find the can opener, or you run out of rubbish bags (and you’re in the middle of nowhere)!

Regardless of how you camp – trailer- or vehicle-based – an efficient kitchen setup is worth the effort of pulling everything out and putting it back where it should be. Create a list of what’s missing, what’s running low, (e.g., dishwashing detergent or fire lighters), and anything that’s needs replacing.

Check that all the bowls, plates, knives, and forks you need aren’t missing or broken either.

Do a stocktake of everything in your camp kitchen to sort out what’s missing. Image: Coleman

Your Electrical System

Usually, over time, one accessory is added on the top of the previous, creating a bird’s nest of wires and fuses! Spend time tidying up, labelling, and checking over wiring so that roadside problems are both less likely and easier to diagnose. This can also reduce the risk of an electrical fire, which can quickly become an unstoppable nightmare.

Running accessory power to a fuse block instead of keeping multiple fuses connected directly to the battery not only looks professional, but makes replacing a blown fuse easier. It also means battery terminals are less likely to come loose, thus preventing charging issues or electrical gremlins.

Your Spare Parts

In that critical moment, will you remember where the fuel tank repair putty is? Create a list of all the spare parts that you carry and where they are stashed in your vehicle, so you can easily dig them out in times of need.

Fan belts, radiator hoses, a spare fuel cap, fuses, tyre plugs, electrical wire, and tank repair putties can be stashed behind back seats, in side pockets, or in the rear drawers. Even in the space for the jack!

Having an up-to-date list will save you from pulling half the car apart, purely to search for the one item that will get you back on the road.

Spend time tidying up, labelling, and checking over wiring, so roadside problems are less likely. Image: Hardkorr

Modifications to Your Setup

Not a Ute conversion or anything too crazy, but consider little ideas to make your camp setup tailored to your needs.

Maybe it’s mounting that LED light on the back of the 4WD for your kitchen, or installing tie-down points for the fridge in your Ute or wagon.

Maybe it’s making a fast, overnight awning on the camper trailer using off-the-shelf side walls for 4WD awnings, modifying the stone guard, creating under-bed storage, or a custom mount for recovery boards.

Topping Up

Charge the batteries for the camper, torches, and camera gear, so they’re stored at maximum capacity. Fill up your gas bottles if they’re low, and ensure tyre pressures are topped up too – especially if the trailer is going to be sitting for a while. Check the expiry of the fire extinguisher, and that it’s full if in date.

Don’t forget about the water tanks, too! It’s recommended to keep them full to the brim to prevent mould from growing on the top of the tanks. Then, dump and replace the water before heading off, to enjoy pleasant-tasting water away from home.

Over-inflate the trailer tyres if it’s being stored longterm, to prevent flat spots. Image: Adam and Lara

Change Vehicle Fluids

We’re talking the types that can get missed during a minor service. Filters and engine oil replacement are usually changed during a service, but what about the power steering fluid, brake and clutch fluid, and the diff oils needed to lubricate other engine parts? These are usually time consuming to do, but not a technical job.

After a quick search on YouTube for a ‘how-to’, you’ll be amazed at the money you can save if your vehicle no longer requires log book servicing. Check the water levels in serviceable lead acid batteries, and pump new grease into the trailer hitch and suspension.

Clean Thoroughly

Keeping a coat of polish on your vehicle’s paintwork prevents staining and makes the next wash so much easier. If it’s been a while since you gave your 4WD or trailer a good wash, it may need a cut and polish. Then, if you wash it regularly with a quality ‘wash and wax’, it’s amazing how easy things like sap stains and dead bugs clean right off.

Give the inside surfaces a good wipe too, Armour-All the rubber dust seals, and don’t forget about the solar panels, camp fridge, chairs, and sleeping bags.

When water beads, this indicates that there is a protective coating. Image: Adam and Lara

Your First-Aid Kit

It’s a good idea to pull everything out, restock what’s running low or missing, and check expiry dates. How old is your guidebook? Does it detail the most up-to-date and safe techniques? A thorough check now could avoid a disaster in the future.

Upgrade Old Equipment

With click and collect, online ordering, or dropping instore (if a quality camp store like Snowys is local!), now is the perfect time to upgrade your old, worn-out gear.

Get inspired, pull out the tools, and get your gear up to scratch ahead of your next adventure to guarantee a seamless and far more relaxing getaway – even with a moment’s notice!

Ensure nothing is missing from or expired in your First Aid kit – it could save a life. Image: Exped

Repairs

So – when your camping gear breaks, are you prepared for it? It’s often not until we need to make a repair that we realise the tools and materials we need are still sitting on the workbench back at home!

WD40, sealer and adhesive, accessory cord, a sewing kit, cable ties, and fabric patches are just a few of the things you should keep on hand in case of breakage. After surveying the passionate campers here at Snowys, we compiled a list of the most common and useful items to make gear repairs on the go.

1. Tent Repair Kit

Tents, awnings, and tarps can take a real battering, particularly if you’re caught out in bad weather. Prepare yourself for holes and tears with outdoor gear repair glue and fabric patches. Most tent repair kits come equipped with these things as well as temporary pole repair sleeves and a replacement shock cord.

Tents, awnings, and tarps can take a real battering, particularly if you’re caught out in bad weather. Image: Oztent

2. Sewing Kit

Useful for tents, a sewing kit will also come in handy for clothing tears. Most kits will come with a standard needle and thread, so make sure to include needles and thread for heavyweight repairs as well.

3. Multi-Purpose Lubricant

Multi-purpose lubricant has a myriad of uses, from stiff camp table legs to dispersing water from your vehicle’s distributor cap. CRC or WD-40 has many other uses too.

Be sure to include needles and thread for heavyweight repairs as well. Image: Oztent

4. Toilet Paper

Hands up if you’ve ever forgotten toilet paper on your camping trip?! More a handy thing to have than a repair item, toilet paper can be used as a tissue alternative, cleaning cloth, and fire starter. 

5. A Multi-Tool

Cut, slice, trim, crush, file, screw… a trusty multi-tool is like a having a whole toolbox with you, without the bulk and weight! You shouldn’t be without one on any camping trip.

A trusty multi-tool is like a having a whole toolbox with you, without the bulk! Image: Leatherman

6. Accessory Cord

Hoochie cord, parachute cord, climbing accessory cord – whatever you choose, look for something with a weight rating. Use it to string up emergency shelters, repair backpacks, replace broken tent loops, suspend a lantern, or even as a skipping rope. Keep between 30m and 50m in your repair kit.

7. Duct Tape and Cable Ties

These two items roll straight off the tongue of every Snowys staff member when asked what they keep in their maintenance and repair kit! We’re yet to find something that these two items can’t patch up, at least enough to see us through our trips. If you only have room to take two items, make it these!

An accessory cord can be used to string up emergency shelters, and more. 

Tent Repairs

Some tents can be complicated. A few considerations after purchasing a new tent are:

• Practice setting up your new tent before your trip away. That way, you can be sure to have all the pieces you need. It never hurts to double-check that nothing is missing – especially pegs! We stand by every tent we sell – but if something does go astray, we’re here to help. Check to ensure you have all the parts you need by setting up the tent as you would at the campsite. Are there poles or pegs missing?
• Understand the purpose of your tent (we can help with this one). Tents are designed for varying conditions, environments, and types of people. Most tents come with a warranty, however these are always limited to manufacturing defects.
• Unfortunately, no warranty covers damage caused by weather. Make use of every guy rope and peg point to ensure your tent is as secure and stable as possible. Consider adding a groundsheet for extra protection to your tent floor, plus it will help look after the vegetation underneath.
• Consider the environment you are travelling to and what additional gear you might require. For example, are you going to the beach? You might need sand pegs!
• Cleaning your tent, drying it out, and packing it away snug is the perfect way to prepare for your next trip. Ensure every element of your tent (material, poles, pegs, etc.) are clean and dry before storing them, to avoid issues like mould and rust.
• They may all seem similar, but every tent has its differences and quirks – so you may stumble across a few surprises. Take the time to learn about your new tent, even if that’s simply reading the instructions on your first crack.
• HOT TIP: Most poles can still be used, even if the elastic cord breaks.

Practice setting up your new tent before your trip away, so you can be sure to have all the pieces you need. Image: Oztent

What’s your recommendation for handy items to include in your outdoor gear repair kit? 

The post Guide to Camping Gear Maintenance & Repair appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The Victorian Alps towards Mount Feathertop. Image: Brendan Barnes

Preparing Your Vehicle

Driving through the alpine regions in winter means your car will be subjected to very cold temperatures and icy conditions. Making sure you are well equipped with everything operating smoothly ensures there are likely to be less problems on the road.

Mechanics

Have your mechanic properly assess that everything is working before you leave, including:

• The battery: can it crank-start in cold conditions?
• The radiator coolant: is it topped up and containing an anti-freeze mix?
• Your tyres: do they have good tread?

Fitting chains early before the weather turns. Image: Brendan Barnes

Snow Chains

Hire or purchase a set of snow chains. These can feel a bit intimidating, but the store will normally do a ‘test fit’ on your vehicle before you drive away, to ensure you have the right size for your tyres.

• Be sure to take note of the steps when they fit them
• Have a go at fitting and removing the chains yourself when you get home, so you are familiar before the trip.
• Pack waterproof gloves (that you’re OK with getting muddy), a small tarp to kneel on, a head torch, a high-vis vest, and perhaps an old rain jacket that can also withstand mud. Keep these in easy reach for when you need to fit your chains.

There are multiple chain bay sites as you head up the mountains where you can pull in and fit your snow chains. When conditions are particularly hazardous, additional LED signs warn that chains must be fitted beyond that point. For those hiring chains and not returning the same way, the companies usually have drop-off points at alternate sides of the mountain.

Note too that Victoria and NSW have slightly different rules on snow chains. In Victoria, all vehicles must carry chains when entering alpine resorts. In NSW, only 2WD vehicles must carry chains when entering Kosciuszko National Park, while AWD and 4WD vehicles are recommended to.

A frosty morning in Long Plain, Kosciuszko National Park. Image: Brendan Barnes

Fuel

Do you have a diesel car? Regular diesel fuel ‘waxes’ at low temperatures, which causes blockages in the fuel system.

‘Alpine diesel’ is sold at petrol stations near the snowfields during winter. This type of diesel contains an additive to ensure the fuel remains liquid through your fuel system in extreme cold.

When planning a trip, aim to run down your tank of regular diesel on the way there before topping up with alpine diesel at a nearby township, such as Bright in Victoria or Jindabyne in NSW. This will ensure your tank is full of the alpine blend for your trip into the mountains.

Allow enough driving for the alpine blend to run through the fuel system before you turn the engine off and park overnight.

Taking the right gear for the conditions is essential for a safe and comfortable trip. Image: Sea to Summit

Shelter and Sleep System

For snow camping, there are three main considerations for your shelter and sleep system. Taking the right gear for the conditions is essential for a safe and comfortable trip.

Tent

Generally, three-season tents are used throughout spring, summer, and autumn. They keep the rain out and offer plenty of ventilation, but are not necessarily designed for winter use.

Four-season tents use stronger pole geometries, additional guy ropes, and thicker fly materials to withstand both stronger winds and snow load weighing down the top of the tent.

My Marmot Fortress 3P is suitable for camping all year round. Image: Marmot

Mat

When selecting a sleeping mat, the R-value is a really useful guide to determine how well the mat will insulate you from the cold ground. Generally, an R-value of 4 or higher is sufficient for general winter camping. For alpine camping, it’s best to aim for an R-value of 6 or higher to ensure a comfortable night’s rest.

These days, there are some great lightweight options for hikers offering high levels of insulation; this is particularly great for multi-day winter in the alpine region. There are even more options for car-based campers, particularly with the 10cm self-inflating mats available that provide exceptional insulation.

For alpine camping, it’s best to aim for an R-value of 6 or higher to ensure a comfortable night’s rest. Image: Sea to Summit

Sleeping Bag

Your personal preference will greatly influence which sleeping bag is right for you. Those with experience in extreme conditions are often asked ‘what temperature sleeping bag do I need?’. It’s a tough question, as it largely depends on what type of sleeper you are.

The Australian Alps rarely drop below an average of -4°C – although in 1991, Charlotte Pass along the Kosciusko Main Range recorded an all-time low of -23°C! My advice would be to not only use a winter sleeping bag with a comfort rating from -5°C to -10°C, but consider mixing and matching: add a sleeping bag liner, wear thermals to bed, and pop on a beanie to keep your head warm. Having multiple layers means you can adjust each to ensure you’re not cold but also not overheating. Sweat will create damp and cold conditions within your layers, which at best would be uncomfortable and at worst could be life-threatening.

An example sleep system could be combining a 4-season tent with a Zempire’s Monstamat Twin (R-value of 9.5) and a down sleeping bag.

The layering principle is really important in icy weather. Image: Earthwell

Clothing and Thermals

The wind can feel like a knife as it tries to infiltrate clothing. The layering principle is really important in icy weather; as you move from inside to outside and back again, you need to be able to easily control your body temperature.

Thermals are body-hugging garments that provide the base layer to all that follows. Not only do they trap warm air against the body, but wick the body moisture away so you remain warm and dry. The following garments are designed and work to keep our core within the right temperature zone – enhanced by windproof quick-drying pants, gloves, and headwear too.

Thermal Layer

There are two choices with thermals: synthetic or, more common now, merino wool. Both have their pros and cons, but both are effective and comfortable.

Base Layer

A base layer can simply be a shirt. This draws away the body moisture and provides the warm, dry environment that is so important for comfort and wellbeing.

Fleece Layer

Over the base layer can be a mid-weight, polar fleece jacket – comfortably warm, but not enough to be the final layer!

Jacket Layer

Over the fleece, a thin but warm down jacket is recommended. Whilst thin, a jacket made from the highest quality down provides maximum warmth for minimum weight. Try for a jacket that’s wind-proof with a shower-proof shell, so the warm air trapped within the layers remains still and effective.

Lightweight Rain Jacket Layer

Finally, a lightweight Gore-Tex jacket ensures that there is no leakage of body heat. This layer is not only wind and waterproof, but again wicks the moisture away from my body.

Using my MSR Whisperlite with Multi Fuel Bottle to prepare dinner in a High Country hut. Image: Brendan Barnes

Food

Fuel

Are you planning to use a gas canister stove?

The more common butane canisters stop working when the temperature is below zero degrees, and the liquefied gas ceases to vaporise in the canister due to the cold temperature.

Instead, look for four-season or all-season canisters containing either propane, isobutane, or a blend of both. That said, it’s worth noting that at really cold temperatures the different gasses in the canister will vaporise unevenly; if it’s too cold for butane or isobutane to burn, only the propane will be used and the canister may stop working (even when it feels like it’s still half full of fuel).

Stove

For the most reliable cooking in the snow, it’s definitely worth considering a liquid fuel stove. Hiking options like the MSR Whisperlite are well known for their robustness in alpine conditions, and once primed are exceptional cookers – even on the coldest and windiest of days. Car-campers will find cookers running off LPG cylinders will work just fine in cold conditions.

Whether you’re a hiker, skier, or snowboarder, don’t let the snow and winter chill stop you from camping! Image: Sea to Summit

Keep Safe and Enjoy the Snow!

Conditions in alpine regions can be unpredictable and hazardous. Even those with experience can struggle when temperatures plummet, and snowstorms hit with high winds and falling trees.

Parts of the High Country have weak to no mobile coverage; if you get caught in a bad situation without a signal, that situation can very quickly escalate. For your peace of mind, it’s a good idea to carry a Personal Locator Beacon like ACR’s ResQLink, so you can raise the alarm and notify the nearest emergency services.

Whether you’re a hiker, skier or snowboarder, don’t let the snow and winter chill stop you from camping – just be prepared with the right gear!

A Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is essential for emergencies when camping in extreme conditions out of phone coverage. Image: Brendan Barnes

What’s your best tip for planning a snow camping trip away?

The post How to Plan for Camping in the Snow appeared first on Snowys Blog.

For this reason, I’ve put together my top 10 facts about effectively purifying a water source so you can hydrate safely off the beaten track – plus, my top recommendations for waters treatment systems.

I’ve put together my top 10 facts about effectively purifying a water source. Image: LifeStraw

When it comes to safe hydration, the essentials that every adventurer should know are:

1. All surface water, still and flowing, contains some form of viruses, bacteria, or protozoa.
2. Bacteria and protozoa are removed via filtration down to 0.2 microns.
3. Viruses are only removed through much finer filtration, or a combination of new technologies.
4. Sanitisation effectively kills bacteria, protozoa, and viruses in clear water.
5. Sanitisation means chemical or ultraviolet treatment i.e. Steripen or chlorine.
6. Boiling water kills bacteria, protozoa, and viruses – but particulates, chemicals, and heavy metals remain.
7. Heavy metals and chemicals can be removed with activated carbon (absorption).
8. You cannot filter saltwater to make it drinkable.
9. You should never assume flowing water is safe – you don’t know what is happening upstream.
10. With the right treatment, any water can be turned into safe drinking water.

Which Water Treatment Option is Right for Me?

Let’s look at some common activities and the type of water treatment required for each.

When family camping, a chemical treatment will be enough in an emergency. Image: Coleman

Family Camping

When camping, you will likely bring water from home – but on longer trips, you will need to pick up water along the way. Any water you gather will probably be from tanks or taps in caravan parks and campsites, which is most likely clear and safe to drink straight from the source.

Most designated campsites will have a sign indicating if the water source is safe for drinking. However, it’s a good idea to carry a chemical treatment as a back-up, just in case something happens to your water supply.

Katadyn Micropur Forte Tablets

For your peace of mind, take a chemical treatment such as Katadyn Micropur Forte (available in tablet and liquid form) to take with you when camping. This also contains silver ions, which eliminate the risk of re-contamination of water stored for long periods.

Knowledge of proper water purification is essential for a backcountry adventure. 

International Travel

The risk of viral, bacterial, and protozoan infection is much higher in certain destinations. When travelling to urban areas that present uncertainty, sealed bottled water is usually readily available and a safe option. However, single-use plastic bottled water is not environmentally friendly and has increasingly become a huge concern – especially in the areas that lack the infrastructure for responsible disposal. Luckily, there are reliable alternatives available with UV light treatment, or all-in-one purifier bottles.

Steripen

Most water from taps runs clear and can be safely treated either chemically or with UV light, such as Steripen. The Steripen is useful in that you can treat a glass or bottle of water without chemicals, making it far more pleasant to drink. If the water sources available to you are turbid, you will need to filter the water first to make chemical and UV treatment effective.

A Steripen is a compact choice for lightweight activities. Image: Steripen

Grayl and Lifestraw Purifier Bottles

There are now portable and easy to use options such as the Grayl UltraPress Water Filter and Purifier Bottle or the slightly larger GEOPRESS. This bottle removes 99.9999% of viruses, disease-causing bacteria, and protozoan cysts, as well as sediment, chemicals, and heavy metals. This is a great option for those who don’t want to purchase single-use plastic bottles of water, and will last you about 300 uses until you must replace the purifier cartridge.

LifeStraw also produce a similar bottle called the Go Tritan Renew Bottle, which filters water through a hollow fibre membrane filter removing 99.999999 % of bacteria and 99.999 % of protozoan parasites. Both options are easy to use and convenient, so they will fit in perfectly with your travel lifestyle.

A Grayl bottle is a great purification option for travel or day hikes. Image: Grayl

Extended Trekking

You may need to make the most of whatever water source you come across here, especially if you are heading off the beaten track. For longer trips you should aim for a filtration system that is light, compact, field maintainable and can filter larger volumes of water.

MSR Hyperflow, Guardian, and Platypus GravityWorks

When you need to filter larger amounts of water, the Hyperflow from MSR is compact to fit in your pack, field-maintainable so you can clean it to recover the flow without tools, and filters 3 litres of water per minute. It also fits onto wide-mouth containers so you can connect it directly to your drink bottle and, combined with a chemical treatment such as Micropur Forte, this bottle can create safe drinking water from any water source.

Effective against bacteria and protozoa, the Platypus GravityWorks will filter your water while you set up your base camp. It comes with two water reservoirs: one for dirty and the other for clean water, connected by a filter. Just hang up the full dirty reservoir higher than the empty clean one, and gravity will get the job done for you! It also comes with bottle adaptors, so you can connect it to your water bottle for convenience.

Self-cleaning, effective against viruses, bacteria, protozoa and particulate (so you don’t need to use further treatment), and able to treat up to 10,000 litres of water – the MSR Guardian will truly cover all your bases when it comes to safe hydration.

Want to know more about what’s in the water you’re drinking? Check out Katadyn’s Safe Drinking Water Guide.

Choose something field maintainable for extended trekking. Image: MSR

Day Hikes and Trail Running

If you’re just hitting the trail for the afternoon and need a water filtration device on hand in case you get stranded, there are some compact and effective options available that won’t weigh you down.

MSR and LifeStraw Filters

I would recommend a field-maintainable water filter such as the MSR TrailShot Pocket Sized Water Filter or MSR Miniworks EX filter. They’re compact, quick to use, and efficient.

If you know that you’re going for a shorter hike where there are reliable water sources available and you want to really lighten your load, a LifeStraw is perfect too. This device filters 99.9999% of bacteria and 99.9% of protozoan cysts, allows you to drink straight from the water source, and only weighs 57g! Compact and lightweight, a LifeStraw makes an ideal addition to your emergency camping or hiking kit – just in case!

A LifeStraw is a compact choice for trekking and heading overseas. Image: LifeStraw

Hydrate Safely Outdoors

These are just a few of the convenient and effective water purification products on the market that will offer reassurance and safe hydration when exploring off the grid.

So, whether you’re a lightweight trekker or just love getting away with the family in your 4WD – you’ll find a great option to cover your hydration needs.

What water treatment system do you use?

The post Guide to Safe Hydration & Water Purification appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Why is winter camping best? The air is crisp and clean, the campfire is warm, and dinner is cooked in a camp oven. Rustle up some damper, enjoy some hot beverages, and shoot the breeze around the campfire. Plus, there are always opportunities to go for walks, which not only keeps us warm but reminds us to appreciate nature.

That said, the cold can ruin a trip fast if you are not prepared. In this blog, we cover the steps to family camping bliss in the winter!

Rustle up some damper, enjoy some hot beverages, and shoot the breeze around the campfire! Image: Coleman

Tent, Swag, or Trailer?

With so many choices available, it can be confusing to decide what makes a good all-year-round shelter. Here’s a breakdown:

Swags Vs Tents

Canvas swags for ground-based shelters are often less susceptible to the cold and wind, compared to tents. While there is an array of excellent alpine-style tents for mountaineers, swags for the average family are great as the canvas effectively retains the heat that you generate. Plus, swags in general are not as tall as tents, so the warm air stays close to you.

Swags also mostly come equipped with 50-70 mm mattresses, having them very comfortable. The swag range by OZtrail and Darche, for example, are well-made and will last you a lifetime if well cared for.

The ground at the campsite can get pretty darn icy, so if you are camping in a tent, sleep on a stretcher. Not a fan of stretchers? well-insulated mat will also provide a barrier between you and the frosty tent floor.

Canvas swags for ground-based shelters are often less susceptible to the cold and wind than tents. Image: Ian Treseder

Soft-Floor Trailers

Thanks to elevated beds, you won’t feel the cold from the ground. Trailers also offer families a place to store loads of gear.

A soft-floor trailer often provides more open space with a drop-down PVC floor. They tend to be popular for bigger families, as they allow bunk and camp bed setups. That said, it’s important to consider the outside area and be aware of exposed rocks (these can tear a hole in the floor). Groundsheets or EVA foam floor mats can resolve these scenarios.

If you are camping in a tent, sleep on a stretcher or a well-insulated mat. Image: Oztent 

Rear-Fold or Forward-Fold Hard-Floor Trailers

Hard floors are often quick to set up, where rocky or difficult grounds are no longer an issue. However, these trailers don’t tend to be as spacious. Despite the ability to set up a double bunk for two young children, there is still less space overall for walking around.

Forward-folds are proving to be the new hot item for families, partly because they offer an internal dining area with a small table to eat at too.

Tip:
A measured piece of carpet enhances the luxury camper trailer experience tenfold across all models, and can easily be stored on top of the bed when packed away.

Trailers tend to be popular for bigger families. Image: Ian Treseder

Choosing Your Campsite

With the winter sun setting earlier, it’s a good idea to hustle the family into the car at the crack of dawn – maybe even pre-dawn, especially if you’ve got a long drive ahead. You’ll be grateful you made the effort when you pull into your camp at the flip side of the day, when there’s still plenty of light for setting up and getting the fire going.

Scout out the area and avoid setting up camp near a creek bed or on a slope, in case it buckets down and the area floods. When the weather is wet and rainy there’s a higher risk of a branch snapping off and falling on your site too – so find a spot as clear of trees as possible.

Campfire Considerations

Most winter camping enthusiasts will tell you that a campfire is a must-have for a campsite. Some of the best memories can be sitting in front of a fire with the kids in your lap, reading a book. Nonetheless, you must always consider the following for a campfire before leaving for the trip:

The Campground

Where you go will dictate whether or not you can have a fire. Check to ensure that the venue allows fires, and if they do, if wood can be collected there or brought with you.

State forests more often than not allow you to run a chainsaw and collect wood from the ground. National Parks tend to be less flexible. If you have a dry stash of wood at home, it’s recommended to bring that along.

Where you go will dictate whether or not you can have a fire. Image: Ian Treseder

Equipment for Collecting Wood

A handsaw works but can become tiresome. Chainsaws will always make light work of wood collection, but National Parks don’t allow chainsaw use due to noise considerations. Therefore, the battery-powered brushless saws can be a great option.

Just to be safe, check with the ranger on your options before your trip. Ensure you bring lighters and even firelighters in case the wood is damp.

Weather and Environment

Look into the weather conditions leading up to your trip, as well as the area itself. If it has been raining for two weeks prior, it is safe to assume that the wood local to the area won’t burn well. The remedy is to bring some of your own dry wood; if nothing else, you can at least combine the wet wood when the fire is underway. If the wood is sparse in the area too, bring your own supply.

Tip:
Often a campsite has a predetermined fireplace and the opportunity to place your tent where you like. Try starting the fire first to track the direction of the smoke before setting up your accommodation. Some campers make the mistake of spending an hour setting up, only to start a fire and notice that the smoke travels straight through the front door!

Keeping Warm

Consider the clothes, shoes, and sleeping gear to bring. Once the winter cold creeps in, it can be very difficult to become warm again. Some careful consideration can make all the difference, especially if it’s your first time camping in the winter.

While there are some great things about camping in the chilly season, you still need to be prepared for the worst. Always carry an emergency blanket, or even some disposable hand or toe warmers; the weather could take a bad turn, you may struggle to light your campfire, or your sleeping gear may not perform as it should. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Ben and Lauren further discuss how to camp cosy in Episode 58 of the Snowys Camping Show:

Clothing

If the wind is a factor, windproof jackets and pants help immensely. Even lightweight wet weather coats over jumpers can block the breeze. Naturally, jumpers and tracksuit pants with thermals are good to wear. Maybe carry a bag with extra jackets and pants in it, in case you get caught out in the rain.

Keep in mind that layering plenty of thinner clothes are better than simply wearing one big, padded coat. Don’t forget your waterproof jacket, beanie, warm socks, and gloves for your extremities.

Tip:
Ugg boots make a great around-the-campsite shoe. The hard sole and a fleecy inner make for ultimate campsite comfort!

If you’re using a sleeping bag, check its rating. Image: Coleman

Bedding

If you don’t want to spend up on new sleeping bags that will cope with the cold, bring your duvet or quilt from home. Heavy quilts are also very warm, and guarantee a cosy night’s sleep. They’re a good investment, as you will need them for nightly use at home too.

If you worry about them becoming dirty, get yourself some cheaper covers to use while camping. For regular winter camps, we recommend Darche’s Canvas Cold Mountain bags – they are brilliant!

If you’re using a sleeping bag, check its rating. If it’s not low enough for the temperatures you’ll be experiencing, add a thermal liner to both increase its warmth and keep it cleaner for longer.

Tip:
The worst part about getting up on a cold morning is crawling out of your warm sleeping bag to change into your freezing-cold clothes! When it’s time for bed, stuff tomorrow’s clothing in there with you, so they’re toasty warm when you put them on the next morning.

Meals and Food

Winter is peak campfire season, so make the most of it by whipping up a camp oven roast and hot chocolate over the hot coals! Not only is this delicious and hearty way of enjoying food and drink, but it will help to keep you warm and add to the winter camping experience altogether.

Nonetheless, it’s best to bring a backup option in case it’s too wet to light a fire, or you encounter an unexpected fire ban. A gas stove or portable BBQ make for ideal alternatives.

Make the most of campfire season! Image: Coleman

Campsite Heaters

It’s important to remain respectful of certain restrictions put in place by National Parks and campsite operators. This generally means using fire pits, bringing your own firewood (and keeping it dry), and safety considerations – especially with children around.

Keeping warm in the campsite may not be as straightforward as striking a match – but it’s simpler than that with a portable gas heater! If you have plenty of storage space, maybe a caravan, or a camper trailer – the Mr Heater Portable Buddy gas heater is a luxurious choice.

With a heat output ranging from 4000 BTU up to a massive 9000 BTU, the Buddy Heater is a robust and lightweight option to keep the whole family warm on a cold winter’s night. Peace of mind comes with the low oxygen and tip-over shut-off safety systems, while ease of use comes from simple push-button ignition. Mr Heater Portable Buddy Heater runs from disposable 450gm propane cylinders. Plus, for economical heating and fewer cylinders to dispose of, it boasts the benefit of operating from your LPG gas cylinder with an optional gas hose. A smart choice for families with its built-in safety features, or great for use on the backyard patio.

Keeping warm in the campsite can be as simple as using a portable gas heater! Image: Mr. Heater

Gas Heaters in Tents and Caravans

A common question we get asked is regarding the use of gas heaters inside tents and caravans. At Snowys, we DO NOT recommend using any portable heat source in an enclosed environment.

There should always be adequate ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is an odourless gas that will make you feel sleepy enough to tuck yourself up in bed and never wake up. Another reason is to prevent oxygen depletion in the air. This is something that is already occurring in a confined space, as we breathe oxygen in and carbon dioxide out.

The only exceptions to this are catalytic heaters, specifically marked for use in confined spaces. Unfortunately, the heaters available from Snowys are not marked as such.

Activities

Nothing keeps you warmer in winter than a bit of exercise! Dress to match the environment of course, but here are some great winter campsite activities:

Exploring the Area

Nothing gets the blood pumping than a good walk to learn about the local area. Even areas we have camped in several times before always offer something new to discover.

Splitting Wood

For the adults, splitting wood is a useful campsite activity. Bring along a block splitter, and get more out of your wood! One hour of this and you will feel plenty warm – just keep safety in mind, and ensure the kids are out of the way.

Some of the most memorable camping adventures can be in sub-five-degree weather. Image: Oztent

Family Games

Some much-loved camping games include Blind Trailblazing: bring a couple of balls of twine and run them through the trees and shrubs. The kids must then navigate their way along the string line through any obstacle you place… blindfolded! Add in a rule to drop every time they hear a bat (shaking the leaves on a branch sounds like a flying bat or bird!).

Small children have huge imaginations, so being blindfolded heightens the senses and allows them to access it even more!

Other Games and Activities

These include Simon Says, night spotting with a torch, treasure and challenge maps (orienteering), and the Spider’s Web Challenge. 

The Spider’s Web Challenge involves threading a rope between two trees (to replicate a spider’s web) and climbing through without touching the rope.

Even the areas that you’ve already camped in can offer something new to discover every time you explore! Image: Ian Treseder

We don’t have to be limited by the seasons. Start by planning a local overnight camp, and build from your experiences each time. The cold winter season can be a beautiful time to explore Australia and bond with family and friends by an open fire.

Do you prefer camping when it’s chilly out, or warm and sunny? 

The post Top Tips for Family Camping in Winter appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Tired of trying to cook dinner by the dim light of your camping lantern? You may have considered investing in a 12V lighting setup instead. Camping should be comfortable, so if you are finding that your lack of lighting solutions are taking away from that, this article will help you to be better prepared.

Be that adding lights to your tent, caravan, vehicle, annex, or awning – once you’re across the basics, it’s super simple to add illumination to your outdoor apparatus!

Read on for the features of 12V lighting, what you need to know, and the most frequently asked questions.

In this video, our gear guru Ben explains the basics of how to choose 12V camp lighting for beginners. 

Power Options for 12V Lighting

Today, lighting for camping is more affordable, durable, brighter, easier to use, and more compact than ever before. Batteries have also improved, along with the introduction of LEDs and the advancement of solar power technology. Remember the old dolphin torches you’d lug around? Now, you can buy a torch that supersedes them in both battery life and light output, at a quarter of the size and weight. For more on personal and portable lighting options, check out Episode 67 of The Snowys Camping Show:

If you have a 4WD or vehicle set up with decent 12V power, your options for camp lights are endless. Whether it’s an LED flood light, strip lighting, or compact lights – being able to connect to 12V power allows huge potential.

There are a few choices for powering your 12V lighting and other devices when camping. Some factors to consider are:

– Whether the power source can store a charge as well as recharge
– The power output
– The weight and portability
– Whether it has enough outlets for your use

1. Dual Battery

If you already use a portable 12V fridge, fan, or other appliance whilst camping, it’s likely that you already have a dual battery setup.

A second battery can be wired into your vehicle, so that it’s separate from your main battery and will charge while the engine is running (ideally while you’re driving). This enables you to run 12V gear such as fridges, lights, fans, and other equipment without the risk of flattening your battery.

Snowys’ blogger Aaron Schubert runs a dual battery system in the back of his Land Cruiser, so using power for lighting is not an issue. A flood light is used on the back of the 4WD, along with LED strip lighting on the top tailgate and upgraded LED globes for the two interior lights.

A dual battery system is a reliable way to power your gear off the grid. Image: Aaron Schubert

2. 12V Socket

If you don’t have a dual battery and you want to power from your car, you can power your lighting and other gear into the factory-fitted 12V socket of your vehicle. This is generally not an issue with smaller devices such as lanterns, your phone, or smaller tech items. However, if you want to run lights, you might want to consider an alternative or you run the risk of flattening your vehicle’s starter battery within a day.

There’s only so much power you can draw from a single 12V outlet though. If you find the sum of all your ratings is pushing the limits (see below for more detail on this), you’re best to consult an auto electrician to upgrade the cables in your car.

An even better solution is a dual battery system as touched on above, with heavy-duty wiring, cables, and plugs.

3. Power Pack or Power Station

A portable power pack or station is also an option to power your 12V lights. Depending on the product you choose, charge it up from your mains power before you leave, top it up via solar panels, or charge from your vehicle whilst on the road.

To shed more light on 12V lighting, Ben and Lauren also spoke with Hard Korr in Episode 29 of The Snowys Camping Show:

Power Draw

The number of lights you can run from one cigarette socket can get a bit technical, so let’s cover the basics in layman’s terms. A factory fitted cig socket is rated to about 120W or 10A, and the sum of all the ratings of the light bars (for example) you run from the battery can’t go over this.

You may think that this means you can run 20 x 0.48A light bars from a 10A socket (20×4.8 = 9.6A), but this is not the case. If you push power consumption to the limit of the plug, this will cause things to heat up which could become dangerous or damage your gear.

Features to Look For in 12V Lighting

With more options on the market today than you could ever need, it’s becoming important to buy a camping light that is going to do what you need it to do. There’s no point buying a flood light if you can’t connect it to 12V power. Likewise, if you want a light to read a book with in your tent, perhaps a top-of-the-range tactical torch is a little much.

Power Consumption

Check out the specs to ensure the lights have a low power consumption. The more power you use, the faster your batteries need charging. Look for something that is bright enough to do what you need, and no more – or it will chew through your battery supply. Ideally, you want lights with high light output and higher-quality LEDs so they last longer.

If you’re only setting up strip lighting on your car or around your boat, the lumens can be lower given you won’t need as high visibility. This will also help to conserve precious battery power.

Quality and Durability

They say a poor man buys twice! Three dollar lights are worth just that, so don’t waste your money – you’ll go through several of them. It’s also important to consider durability. If your lights are semi-permanently mounted onto your vehicle, they will need to be able to handle the vibrations of your 4WD without becoming damaged.

Remote Control Compatibility

For lights that are mounted somewhere, a remote control is a fantastic option. Dimmers are often included too; turn it on, and dim the light down without having to walk through the dark!

High-quality lights are more durable, brighter and last longer on your adventures. Image: Aaron Schubert

Lighting Options:

LED Strip Lights

The benefits of LED strip lighting are that it’s super easy to install and, considering their low weight, the power output is excellent. They’re also cool to the touch in low applications, have a long life given they don’t require globe replacements, and boast an efficient power draw.

LED Strip and Flexible Tape Lighting

One of the most common lights you’ll see these days when camping is LED strip lighting: a length of LEDs that are mounted inside a waterproof film. You can find flexible tape options that are cut to fit, with adhesive tape on the back and connectors on each end. These are usually low-powered, so not super bright like other lighting options – thought this means they use up very little energy.

They are low-cost, and can be installed by virtually anyone. You can cut them every 10 or so centimetres, join them easily, and attach them to pretty much anything. Some stores sell pre-wired LED strip lighting with a cigarette lighter plug on one end, or you can make up your own. LED strip lighting is a great option to add on your awning, or on your 4WD. Keep in mind though that it will stick firm to your chosen surface, so not removed as easily. This is also an advantage, as you won’t need to move it around.

Other forms of LED strip lighting are attached to a strip of canvas, which has Velcro on the back for mounting. This is a little more versatile, as you can set it up quickly and move it where you want to. However, the trade-off is that it’s not flush fitting and can catch on moving items, such as camper trailer frames, gazebos, and awnings. For a more permanent lighting option, flexible tape lighting would be your best bet.

If you think that you’d prefer something more portable, consider either strip lighting with Velcro on the back instead, or a light bar kit setup.

Enjoy the space under your awning more in the evenings by attaching some tape lighting. Image: Korr Lighting

LED Camping Light Bars & Kits

Individual bars or a light kit usually come with all the necessary parts you will need to set them up yourself – including a cigarette plug to connect it into your vehicle, extension leads, and a dimmer switch for manual adjustment.

The benefits of light bar kits are that they offer a higher number of lumens and are flexible in offering various mounting options. In hot conditions, they also perform better in comparison to flexible tape lighting.

Adding some quality lights to your vehicle is a great way to illuminate your area at night. Image: Aaron Schubert. 

Solar and Wind-Up Lights

Something that can be a right pain, regardless of which path you go down, is changing batteries. There are a heap of torches and lanterns on the market today that don’t require the changing of batteries. Some require you to wind a handle around to generate power, and others charge via inbuilt or separate solar panels. Of course, every option brings its own inconsistencies – but used for the right purpose, solar and wind-up lights are fantastic.

The wind-up lights in particular are great if your light dims; simply wind it up a little, and you are good to go again. For the lanterns with lower light output (like those used in a tent), the solar lights are a great option providing you remember to leave them out in the sun on a clear day. Keep in mind that if you’re camping in cloudy or rainy weather, you may need a backup!

Flood Lights

A flood light easily generates enough output to light up a whole camping area – fantastic when you arrive at camp in the dark!

You won’t need to wear your headtorch around camp if you set up lighting around your tent. Image: Korr Lighting

Frequently Asked Questions

How Many Light Bars do I Need for a Campsite?

Light bars come in many sizes, starting at 25cm – equivalent to the light you would find in a lantern. The largest is 100cm in length, which is enough to light up a gazebo or tent awning from one direction.

A light bar kit includes up to 5 bars, which is more than enough for an entire campsite. This is well within standard 12V socket ratings and provides 1-3 days of continuous lighting from a deep cycle auxiliary battery (as mentioned above). While you could run this from your regular car battery, it’s not recommended; it could flatten your battery after a day of use, or if you accidentally leave them on.

You can also use extension leads to create bigger gaps so that you can set up the bars all around the tent/shelter or campsite. The benefit of choosing a kit is that it comes equipped with different-sized leads, having it easy to customise to your specifications.

A single bar kit won’t allow you those options, as you will need to separately purchase leads in order to use it with the rest of your gear. So, this is more so an option if you’re looking to add more illumination to your current setup.

Illuminating your whole campsite will be fairly easy with one light bar kit. Image: Korr Lighting

Mounting Light Bars to Your Tent or Awning Pole

Purchase pole clamps, which will connect onto the rear channel of the light bar. This accessory provides you with some extra versatility to move your lighting around to suit your needs at any given time. Or, use Velcro strips or cable ties for a more permanent application.

White or Orange Lights?

Colour temperature is a feature to pay attention to. You can find everything from cool white to yellow or red. Bright white or cool, blue-coloured lights can attract bugs, so colour is something to factor into your decision. While white light will provide better visibility, orange will significantly reduce the presence of insects.

If you choose to use white LEDs, avoid hanging them above cleaning/washing or food areas. This will draw bugs to the area, which can become messy and unsanitary while preparing meals. To be on the safe side, choose both white and orange lights.

Keep in mind that if you want to extend your dual colour lighting system, you will need to use dimmers and cable kits that are compatible with dual orange/white light bars and other products.

You have the option of white or orange coloured LEDs. Image: Korr Lighting

Extending My Light Kit/Lighting Setup

This will depend on what brand of lighting you have. Some brands design their kits so that you don’t have to solder anything. Instead, you can purchase extra leads to extend and customise it as you like. Just make sure they’re compatible.

Can I run my 12V camping lights from a 240 power point?

Yes, but you will need a transformer/plug pack that can handle the power draw of your lights.

Are light kits compatible across different brands?

The only way to know if parts are compatible across various ranges is to check if the connectors fit. However, it is recommended to stick with the same manufacturer. These plugs are made to be water resistant, so ensure to use compatible brand components to form a tight seal.

Do you have any other queries about 12V lighting? Let us know in the comments below. 

The post Guide to 12V Camp Lighting appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Leaving no trace behind should be the most important consideration when heading into a pristine environment, and that includes your personal hygiene practices. If you need a refresh of the 7 Leave No Trace Principles, then check out the guide on our blog.

In this article, we unpack the essentials for a rustic cleanse, the cleaning methods to avoid, and options for showering, handwashing, tasteful toileting, and outdoor laundry.

Let’s upgrade from the gum leaves, and keep it clean ‘n classy…

Ensure you have the right gear with you to keep clean and leave no trace. 

Personal Hygiene Essentials:

• Hand sanitiser
• Biodegradable wash
• Compostable wipes (burn or dispose of these properly at camp. Never bury, flush, or drop wipes into a pit loo)
• Portable clothesline
• Washcloth
• Microfibre towel
• Ziploc bags (for packing out used wipes)
• Toothpaste (biodegradable)
• Toothbrush
• Floss
• Washbag
• Squeezable water bottle
• Trowel or mini shovel (for toileting)

Avoid:

• Personal care products that are not biodegradable
• Heavily scented products (these can attract bugs)
• Soaps or washes containing phosphates
• Bulky products that produce waste

You may know that phosphates aren’t great for the environment, but you may not know why. Phosphates increase algae growth, which decreases oxygen in the water – making it harder for fish and other aquatic life to survive.

So, when choosing a biodegradable soap for camping or hiking, choose phosphate-free too.

Your toiletries bag may also include:

• A small container or spray bottle of water
• Baby powder (great in humidity and keeps chafing at bay!)
• Sanitiser (a glovebox staple – useful to save an upset stomach, or worse!)
• A large S-hook (for instant hanging space, wherever you may need it)
• Thongs (you’ll want them on your feet, no matter where you’re showering)
• Toothbrush shield (see below)

Here are some of the essentials you could bring to keep clean when outdoors. 

Brushing Your Teeth

While this is a pretty straightforward activity, there are a few things to consider when you’re out on the trail.

If you don’t mind carrying the extra weight, a toothbrush shield helps to keep it clean. Teeth are also best cleaned at your campsite and using water you know is 100% bacteria-free. Try using a smaller amount of biodegradable toothpaste than you usually would, swish your mouth with a small amount of water, and spray it over a wider area (so it’s not concentrated in one spot – this minimises the impact on the environment).

Alternatively, spit the residue into a hole you’ve dug.

Handwashing

Hand sanitiser will be your best friend out on the trail, as you won’t always have access to soap and water.

When you’re amongst a group of people, germs can spread quickly – so it’s essential to sanitise your hands every time you go to the toilet or prepare food.

Wash your hands or use sanitiser to keep germs from spreading. Image: Sea to Summit

Bathing When Hiking or Trekking

To maintain good hygiene when away from the comfort of a running shower, there are a couple of options for a lightweight adventure.

While it is tempting to skip the wipe or wash after a long day out and about, keeping clean will help keep your clothes and bedding in better condition, preventing oil, dirt, and sweat from rubbing into your mat, sleeping bag, or pillow. Trust us, your down sleeping bag will thank you for it, as you won’t have to wash it as often!

Portable Showers

If you’re happy to carry the extra weight, a Pocket Shower is a more luxurious option when you’re travelling light.

This is essentially a dry sack with a shower head built into the base which can be adjusted via a twist mechanism. Simply fill with water, warm it up in the sun, and hang it up for an 8.5-minute shower! Once you’re done, dry off with a compact microfibre towel.

There is a range of camp showers available to make cleaning a comfortable experience. Some even run on solar power or batteries, offering a hot water option. You can also simply use a small tub of water, soap, and washcloth.

A few things to note:

• Wash 100-200m from any watercourses (this includes dry creek beds), as soaps and shampoos can be damaging to aquatic wildlife.
• Use biodegradable soaps with low sodium and phosphate, and avoid soaps and shampoos with fragrances.
• Chemicals in cleaning products can damage the surrounding bush, and scents might attract unwanted insects.

This option probably won’t be suitable for every trip, but on a particularly warm and sweaty adventure you’re likely to appreciate this method of washing away the day! For more on how to set up a camping shower, check out Ben’s blog here.

If you can spare the space and weight, a pocket shower is an option for keeping clean. Image: Sea to Summit

Sponge Baths

While nothing beats a shower after a long day, this isn’t always practical if you’re hiking for a few days and don’t have access to a lot water or room in your pack to carry equipment.

Heat up some water, and pour it into a portable sink. Add some biodegradable body wash, grab a washcloth, and get started! When finished, ensure you dispose of the water 60-100m from a water source. A squeezy water bottle comes in handy here, as you’ll be able to rinse those hard-to-reach areas.

Another technique to clean yourself is to use moistened cotton balls.

• Use them on your underarms, groin, face, feet, back of the neck, or other areas that are prone to sweat.
• These take up little room in your pack, and you’d be surprised how much grime cotton balls can remove!
• For additional antibacterial protection, dab the cotton balls in alcohol-based hand sanitiser. Be careful though, as excess use can dry the skin and sting if used on rashes and grazes.

A washcloth, portable sink and biodegradable wash is another option for staying fresh. Image: Sea to Summit

Wipes

These are great when you either can’t spare the water, or you’re just too tired after a long day to attempt anything else!

You want the sort that will remove salt, sweat, and oils from your body. Depending on your preference, you may want to try unscented baby wipes or something a little thicker like Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wipes.

You may not be burying them, but still consider a compostable option for when you arrive home and need to dispose of them.

When you’re really exhausted, or water is limited, wipes will get the job done. 

Nature’s Bath!

If you are going to wash directly in a lake or river, don’t use any soap at all – even if its biodegradable. Also, if you’ve smothered yourself in sunscreen and insect repellent, this will wash off into the water and can cause contamination. In this case, it might be best to collect water to wash with and scatter it afterwards instead. Other people might be using the river to collect drinking water from too, so consider that before you jump in!

If you are free camping too, consider the impact on the environment as well as your health and safety. Fresh or saltwater, if safe, is for unpolluting, cleansing, and refreshing dips. However, being swept away by the current, or becoming croc bait is not worth the risk… so know the water source and your environment before taking the plunge!

Drying Off

Just like a coffee order, towel selection is personal. Do you prefer large or small? Thick, or thin?

Many travellers like a compact, fast-drying microfibre range, car chamois, or sarong. Even a small and thin 100% cotton towel is sufficient, and doesn’t take long to dry. On the other hand, a large towel is bulky and guaranteed to be packed wet or – at best – damp.

A few tips:

• If you are towing or packed high, with restricted vision out the back window, string a lineacross the seat behind. This can act as an airing rack, and your towel can dry as you drive.

• A large Chux can be used as a towel alternate. A cut piece makes a great, quick-drying face washer – and it’s perfect to dry your toes really well before you pop them into your shoes!

If you bathe in a river or lake, be considerate of the environment. Image: Sea to Summit

Laundry

On a lightweight trip, you’re not going to be carrying a whole wardrobe of clothes. Instead, you’re likely to keep a couple of pairs of socks, underwear, and a spare set of clothes to rotate.

A great way to clean your clothes (that doesn’t use a lot of water) is a Scrubba Wash Bag. This is essentially a portable mini washing bag – simply add a couple of garments, biodegradable washing detergent, and water. Push out the excess air, seal it up, agitate for 3 mins, rinse, and dry.

You could also use your dry bag, or a portable sink. Both will get the job done in a similar way, and are multi-purpose to save on weight. When you’re finished, just ensure you scatter the greywater the safe and correct distance from water sources.

Sometimes, laundry isn’t always practical. In these instances, air-dry your clothes after hiking each day. Wet or sweaty clothes stored in your pack can be a source of bacteria. You can also choose to wear clothes that wick away moisture so they dry much faster and don’t become as sweaty. A lot of hiking clothing is designed specifically for this purpose.

A travel towel, like the Sea to Summit Drylite Towel, is also a great investment. Regular towels can stay wet for a long time and harbour bacteria, while a travel towel will air-dry in no time at all.

Fresh clothes will help you maintain good hygiene on the trail.

Going About Your Business…

Feminine Hygiene

For the females reading this, there are a couple of options for managing your monthly visitor on an off-grid getaway.

The most efficient and environmentally friendly choice is a menstrual cup. Keep in mind that your hands need to be clean when both using and emptying it. You should also dispose of the cup contents as you would when going to the toilet.

Secondly, use standard, disposable feminine hygiene products – but ensure you have a way to carry them out with you. A Ziploc bag is usually best for this, or covering it with duct tape for more discretion.

Put together a little kit of your hygiene products. That way, it’s easy to locate in your rucksack with minimal stress in the critical moment!

Number 1’s and 2’s

There are a number or portable toilets, and even toilet tents, available for doing your business in private. These are useful if you’re camping out in some of the coastal or desert country of Australia, where there aren’t as many trees to squat behind!

If you don’t have room to take a portable toilet, a few tips to consider when going to the toilet in the bush are:

• Always relieving yourself away from campsites, walking tracks, and any watercourses
• Digging a deep hole (at least 15-20 cm deep) and tapping down the soil afterwards with your boot or back of the trowel. The bacteria in human faeces can be harmful to native wildlife.
• Ensuring you bury both your deposit and the toilet paper but nothing that might contain chemicals or inorganic materials (such as plastic).
• Being mindful of toilet paper. There is nothing worse than seeing stray toilet paper floating in the bush – not to mention the associated hygiene issues!
• Digging holes – a lightweight trowel is important to include in your pack for this. Some soil can be quite compacted in Australia, so a trowel with a point allows you to dig deep enough.
• Taking a bottle of hand sanitiser. Often, people will wash their hands back at the campsite. By the time they’ve got back from doing their business, they’ve touched the trowel, door of the tent, and cap of the water bottle!

Keep everything you need in one bag, so that it’s ready to use. 

Ben and Lauren also discuss how to take care of business in the outdoors on the Snowys Camping Show:

Cooking and Eating

Before cooking and eating, clean your hands. When camping, you might be handling soil and animals. Quite often, the bacteria you come into contact with when camping is unfamiliar to your body. It’s therefore even more vital to clean your hands before eating, than it is at home or work.

If you don’t have access to warm running water, hand sanitiser is – once again – effective. Remember to wash your cutlery and dishes properly, rather than just a quick rinse. Ideally, heat up some water after you finish cooking, and – once again – dispose of the used dishwater away from any watercourses.

Rubbish

If there are no bins, you’ll need to take your waste with you. If you have to carry waste, ensure it is stored away from food and other personal items. Ziplock bags are a great way to keep smells contained and prevent leakage.

A tip is to double-bag rubbish, then store it in an opaque bag (so you don’t have to look at it!).

Keeping Feet Clean and Dry

Doing this before you change your socks will help to prevent any nasty bacteria from breeding. It’s also a good idea to dry out your boots at night – just make sure that if they’re leather, you don’t leave them out for too long in the sun. They can shrink!

Other Squeaky Clean Tips:

• Invest in a pair of thongs, and a lightweight loose shift/shower dress or shorts that can be slipped on to and from the shower. It’s no fun getting dressed when the floor is wet, or stepping into shower-splashed, damp, or wet clothes. Take no other clothes with you, and get dressed back at camp instead.
• Pop your toiletries and fresh clothing in a cloth supermarket bag. The extra space will fit your towel and any laundryyou might like to do in the shower block. Hang it from its handles and you’ll have less to juggle on an insufficient benchtop or shower stall seat.
• Invest in a good strong nail brush and keep your nails short.
• Apply appropriate first aid to any cuts and grazes.
• Again, in the great outdoors there are germs your body may not be used to – you don’t want a wound becoming infected. Cover up wounds with a plaster or dressing, regardless of how insignificant it might seem.

Maintaining good personal hygiene that leaves no trace behind is super important for both your health and the environment. We hope these tips have pointed you in the right direction – so next time you head away, you can keep it clean and green!

Ben and Lauren also chat about keeping clean in the outdoors on the Snowys Camping Show. Check it out:

How do you keep clean on your lightweight adventures? 

The post Guide to Personal Hygiene in the Outdoors appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Keep all your passwords secure in one spot? There’s an app for that too.

Decipher the meaning of your horoscope? The meaning of ~their~ horoscope?!

Yep. Apps.

With so many that make outdoor and overseas travels safer, easier, more interactive, and enjoyable too – it can be difficult to distinguish between those you’ll grow to rely on, and those you just won’t use.

Tag your luggage, lock your baggage, take a seat, and tap that app open – because these are the Snowys-approved outdoor and travel apps that will be the most useful on your next adventure!

Outdoor Adventuring

1. WikiCamps Australia

To prevent rocking up at a campsite and finding it costs a bomb, doesn’t have a shower, or isn’t pet-friendly – the WikiCamps app allows you to obtain the info you need in advance.

This app is basically a database updated by fellow campers and adventurers to provide information on campgrounds, backpacker hostels, caravan parks, public dump points, toilets, and information centres. It has thousands of sites that you can browse to find that perfect, secluded spot for your next trip.

WikiCamps is available for iOS, Android and Windows, with filters that help in determining which campsite will suit. Plus, it can be used offline at any time – brilliant for when you’re travelling remotely.

WikiCamps costs a one-off fee, but is an excellent investment – whether you’re a casual weekend camper, or planning the adventure of a lifetime.

With WikiCamps, finding the perfect campsite is as easy as scrolling through your phone.

2. First Aid by Australian Red Cross

For up to date first aid information, the Australian Red Cross First Aid App is the one you can trust. This app gives details on how to handle common first aid emergencies that you might encounter. Available on Android or iOS, each step is displayed for you with the option of interactive advice. While you should always carry a PLB to alert the authorities in emergencies, having this knowledge will give peace of mind when you’re in a sticky situation.

Downloading a fire safety or public safety app for your state is also very important. They enable you to receive emergency alerts, keeping you safe and informed on any bushfires that may flare up in the area.

Refresh your knowledge and view first aid instructions when you need them.

3. Gas Finder

When your supply is running low in the middle of a camping trip, don’t fret – Gas Finder will guide you to the cheapest refill! This app is free to download, with iOS, Android and Windows versions available.

Gas Finder was created by the same group as WikiCamps, allowing you to locate the nearest refill location as well as identify prices for both swap and standard sized 9kg and 4.5kg bottles.

The prices listed have a date, so you can see how recent they are – and you can even update them so that other users can save some extra cash too!

4. Avenza Maps

You won’t always have Wi-Fi access when off the grid, which is why an offline map viewer such as Avenza Maps is a must.

This app is available as a free download, and while some of the maps are without cost there is a small fee for others. Available in the store are topographic, tourist, and recreation maps. As they don’t require the internet, you can use your maps anytime you like once downloaded.

The existing GPS in your phone will allow you to locate yourself on any map, and you can record where you are with placemarks.

Navigate when you’re out of range with Avenza Maps.

5. Strava Running and Cycling GPS

Strava is basically a social network for outdoorsy people… but instead of sharing memes and snaps of your dog, you can record and share highlights of your runs or rides with your mates.

Track your activities while viewing all of your stats, like speed and distance – plus, monitor how you performed on different sub-sections. This app is also compatible with many GPS watches and other activity trackers – bonus!

Strava has an easy-to-use interface, so you can get the hang of it pretty quickly!

Track your progress and see how your mates fared, with Strava.

6. WillyWeather or BOM

There are so many weather apps to choose from, but all of them use the same information provided by the Bureau of Meteorology. We’ve established two options to choose from, both free to download.

WillyWeather is functional, easy to use, and offers added detail – such as BOM satellite and radar, plus rain, tide, UV, and wind forecasts. The app also provides information on sunrise and sunset times, and the moon phases – having it better suited to outdoor activities, such as hiking.

BOM Weather offers all its weather stats on one screen, allowing you to promptly bring up the day’s forecast without first opening a menu. This app is better for everyday use, for those quick snapshots of the weather at a glance.

WillyWeather offers detail and easy-to-use functionality.

7. FuelMap Australia

Fuel Map is a free, crowd-sourced database that displays a map of all the petrol stations around Australia, with user-updated fuel prices.

Not only is this amazing for finding the best-priced fuel in your area on a weekly basis, but really useful for planning your refuelling schedule for your next trip away. FuelMap is free to download too, so it’s definitely not a waste of phone space!

Find both the closest and best deals on fuel!

8. SkyView

Fancy some stargazing on your next trip away? You’ll be an amateur astronomer in no time, with help from the SkyView app.

It’s free, available for Android and iOS, and can be used without WiFi – just point your device at the sky and it will show you where the stars, galaxies, constellations, sun, moon, and satellites are from your viewpoint. For a bit of fun insight into the other side of the world, you can also direct your device towards the ground.

View the sky at different times using the time travel feature, and capture images to share with your family and friends. Plus, it comes with red and green filters to preserve your night vision.

Learn more about the stars with SkyView.

9. LeafSnap

Ever come across a plant or flower on your travels that’s left you scratching your head? LeafSnap will help you figure out exactly what it is!

With the ability to recognise 90% of known species of trees and plant, simply take a photo of the plant, and the app will identify it for you. It’s available for iOS and Android and, initially, it offers a free trial. After that, you have the option to pay a 1-month, 3-month, and 6-month subscription.

With a plant database that’s constantly being updated, there’s every opportunity to learn and discover more about nature around you on your off-grid explorations.

10. Hema Explorer Australia

Adventure offline around Australia on your next 4WD touring, caravanning, or camping expedition with the Hema Explorer Australia App.

Without mobile coverage, you can navigate offline using multi-scale topographic mapping, and obtain a route to your point of interest, address, or waypoint. This app also allows you the save a lock of your trip and share the details online with your loved ones. Available for both iOS and Android, there is a purchase fee involved and the option for additional access with a Pro subscription.

A free option for 4WDers is also Newtracs; a real-time, crowd-sourced app available to download on iOS and Android that provides information on 4×4 track conditions – including length, warnings, difficulties, time, and speed of travel. It also has a logging feature, vector maps for offline use, and a breadcrumb feature in case you get lost.

Adventure offline with Hema Explorer.

Overseas Travel

1. Skyscanner / Expedia

Who doesn’t want the best deal on flights, hotels, and car hire? If you’re hoping to save some money when booking your trip, Skyscanner is a must. For a last-minute hotel, this app will find you the best prices so you don’t have to pay through the nose. Set it up to give you price change alerts too.

This app is completely free, so worth a download when planning your next holiday!

Expedia is a similar app that allows you to find deals on hotels, flights, and activities. The benefit of using the web version of the app is that you receive double the points when you book, mobile-exclusive deals, and alerts when your flight become delayed.

For a last-minute hotel, this app will find you the best prices so you don’t have to pay through the nose.

2. Citymapper

This award-winning app is probably the most useful of the bunch, especially when exploring a new city by foot or public transport.

On Citymapper, you can find the quickest route to your destination of all the transport modes available. This could include a combination of train, car share, taxi, bus, train, or on foot. It’ll also provide easy step-by-step directions, and send alerts if a line is disrupted.

The app covers cities in the US, Canada, Latin America, Europe, Asia, and Australia. Check which are covered here.

Find the quickest route to your destination of all the transport modes available.

3. Duolingo

Duolingo is a handy little app that can be used in the lead-up to your holiday to brush up on the local language.

Forget miming, pointing, and gesturing in an attempt to order your dinner – this app provides the lessons to build your reading, speaking, listening, and writing skills, designed to feel like a game. This keeps them fun, and therefore maintains the motivation to learn.

An easy-to-use tool to help you make friends with the locals, or as self-development if you’re intending to pick up a new language – it’s also completely free, so all there is to invest is your time and dedication.

This app provides the lessons to build your reading, speaking, listening, and writing skills.

4. App in the Air

Are you the kind of person who sits down to have a cup of tea – and before you know it, 20 minutes have passed, you’re late for work… and you’re not sure how it happened?

If time management isn’t your strong suit, App in the Air will help you monitor and keep on top of your flight schedule.

App in the Air splits your flight schedule into a timeline that covers check-in, boarding, take-off, and landing. Each stage has a countdown, indicating exactly how much time is left – so you’ll never miscalculate. It will also notify of delays, or a change in your timetable.

Free to download, this app can be accessed when offline too.

Monitor and stay on top of your flight schedule.

5. TripIt

Nobody likes scrolling through 5 pages of mail to copy and paste all confirmation emails into a readable itinerary. If thinking about schedules turns your brain to soup, TripIt is the simple (and free) solution!

All you need to do is forward all travel confirmation emails, and the app translates it into a master itinerary – genius! Meanwhile, it’s accessible on all devices – even without Wi-Fi.

Forward all travel confirmation emails, and the app translates it into a master itinerary!

6. XE Currency

You may already be familiar with XE Currency if you shop on overseas websites, or monitor the progress of the Aussie dollar. What you might not know is that there’s an app version too!

XE Currency is especially handy if your holiday takes you across several different countries. The app provides live exchange rates and enables you to calculate prices on your phone, so you’re aware of the value of every $AUD you spend. In doing so, you won’t unintentionally rip yourself off when buying souvenirs, or deciding what to eat for lunch.

The free version includes ads, while the ‘pro’ version (third party, ad-free) comes with a small cost.

XE Currency provides live exchange rates and enables you to calculate prices on your phone.

7. Prey: Find My Phone Tracker GPS

This is an anti-theft app that provides peace of mind on your trip away.

Free of charge, this app allows you to locate and protect your phone or tablet by having the location setup zones alert you if your device moves out of a particular area. You can also alert the current user by displaying a message on the screen.

Prey is also super handy to have when you’re not travelling – you never know when you might run into a spot of bad luck!

Free of charge, this app allows you to locate and protect your phone or tablet.

8. Airbnb

If the thought of staying in an overpriced, overrated hotel, or a dodgy hostel doesn’t tickle your fancy – there’s always the option to use Airbnb.

Airbnb is fast becoming one of the most recognised and used accommodation sites/apps. Airbnb allows you to search for a house, apartment, loft, cottage, or castle (yes, a castle) to stay in, and there’s something for all budgets. You can also search for and book experiences, plus find info on local-approved secret spots, bars, and restaurants.

If you’re the type of person who likes to immerse themselves in the culture of a city or country, staying in an Airbnb will be your cup of tea.

Search for and book experiences, plus local-approved secret spots, bars, and restaurants.

9. Google Translate

Language isn’t everybody’s strong point, and sometimes when overseas there’s not a helpful English-speaking stranger in sight! There’s always the Google Translate app though.

Just insert the text, and gain access to 59 languages – even when you’re offline.

If you’re unable to type characters, simply snap an image and it will translate it for you – as long as it’s one of the languages included. You can even hand draw the character, and the app will translate it from the 93 languages included in this feature.

Insert the text, and gain access to 59 languages – even when you’re offline.

10. Netflix and Other Streaming Services

On your overseas trip, you’ll likely spend a lot of time in airports. If you already own a streaming account with Netflix, it’s worth downloading the mobile version. Download episodes or movies and watch them later – perfect for when you need to pass the time between flights.

Netflix can be streamed in almost 200 countries and territories, which has it a good option for entertainment while travelling overseas. Check out the full list of country availability here.

If you have another streaming service with similar features, it’s likely you can use that instead. Just ensure it can be used internationally ahead of your trip.

Netflix can be streamed in almost 200 countries and territories.

Which outdoor apps do you actually use? What travel apps do you recommend for anyone about to go overseas? Let us know in the comments!

The post The Best Apps for Outdoor Adventuring & Overseas Travel appeared first on Snowys Blog.

If you’re a beginner, you may have found that SUP-ing is not necessarily as easy as it looks!

Welcome to one of the fastest-growing recreational water activities in the world. Whilst stand-up paddling (SUP-ing) originated in Hawaii in the 1940-50s, it took another 50 years for everyone else to catch on. It’s not surprising that Australians have embraced SUP-ing, given we’re blessed with thousands of kilometres of coastline and abundant inland waterways to paddle about on. People continue to be drawn to the physical and emotional benefits of the sport – working on balance and core strength, while enjoying some water therapy.

However, if you’re a beginner, you may have found that it’s not necessarily as easy as it looks! My husband had expressed an interest in trying either kite boarding or SUP-ing. I decided that the latter was probably something we’d all be able to enjoy. I found a second-hand board for a reasonable price and a voucher for an introductory lesson. The lesson was a great idea, providing heaps of tips on set-up, technique, and safety that he was then able to pass on to us – and that I can now do so to you!

Allow me to share some of our family’s experience in SUP-ing over the last 7 years.

Before You Start…

Before you jump on the board, there are a few things to establish…

Check the Weather

…and by that, I mean wind!

Less wind is better, so this decides if we SUP or not. Understanding how the wind will affect the body of water you plan to SUP on will determine how enjoyable your time is out there. Our favourite app is WillyWeather as you can see the forecast, plus real-time wind speed and direction.

For example, from the snapshot below, the wind is blowing offshore at our local Port Phillip Bay beach. This means it won’t be too choppy close to shore. I’ll find the paddle out super easy with the wind behind me, but once I turn around things will get interesting! For that reason, I’d probably think twice about SUP-ing in these conditions.

The impact that wind can have on SUP-ers has been reflected on the news too. Four teens on two inflatable SUPs set out from the Mornington Peninsula one evening and were swept by strong offshore winds more than 20km across the bay (and the shipping channel), washing up on the Bellarine Peninsula at about 2 o’clock in the morning. They were incredibly lucky to walk away from that!

Note that iSUPs are more affected by wind and choppy waters than the heavier, hard-board type.

The wind is blowing offshore at Port Phillip Bay beach, which means it won’t be too choppy close to shore.

Gather Your Equipment

OK – so the weather is perfect and you’re raring to go! You’ve obviously got the board and paddle, which is a good start, but…

Make sure there’s a leg leash, and use it. You want to stay attached to that board!

Sun protection and safety is a must! Consider a PFD (lifejacket or vest) as well. It’s a good idea to check the regulations in your state or territory, regarding SUPs.

Stay attached to that board!

I always take my phone in a small dry sack, as I like to take photos. I also have a strap to secure my sunnies in case I fall in.

Before you jump on the board, check the paddle is at the correct height for you too. Stand on the shore holding it upright next to you, then reach up and rest your hand on the top of the paddle at the wrist. Your arm should be straight – if it’s not, the paddle needs to be longer. On the other hand, if you cannot rest your wrist on the top, it needs to be shorter.

Right – now you’re ready to go!

On the Water

Once you’ve gained good momentum, stand up straight.

Launch Procedure

1. Walk the board out deep enough for the fin to clear the bottom.
2. Hold the paddle with two hands flat across the board (roughly in the middle) as you kneel behind it.
3. Remain kneeling as you begin to paddle (remember, the paddle has a front and back). You can stay like this for as long as you like while getting used to the board.
4. Once you’re feeling good and have gained good momentum, stand up straight.

If there is some wind – paddle into it!

Making Way

1. Your body should be facing forward, head tall. We tend to lean forward when feeling unsteady, so switch on that core or you’ll end up with a sore back!
2. You checked the wind direction when you arrived at the beach, right? Good. If there is some wind – paddle into it! You’ll appreciate the tailwind on the return journey. Stick close to shore while you’re still learning.
3. With each stroke, bend into the knees like you’re doing a half-squat. This should be a whole-body workout, not just your arms!
4. There are three basic ways to change direction:
   • Slow Turn – just keep paddling on one side only
   • The Sweep – make a wide-arching paddle stroke (think of a rainbow shape)
   • The Back Paddle – this allows for a sharper turn by alternating the back paddle stroke with a front stroke on the opposite side
5. Like anything you want to learn, YouTube has a plethora of technique tutorials!
6. Chances are, you will fall in – that’s all part of the fun! Your board won’t go far because it’s attached to you. Climb back on, and repeat.

Once you find your balance, you’ll be paddling like a pro in no time!

But What If…

1. The wind changes suddenly? Drop to your knees and paddle back. You’ll act less like a sail when you’re positioned lower.
2. There’s boat wake? As above, drop to your knees if you feel wobbly.
3. You’re tired? Sit or lie down, and just enjoy floating around for a bit.

Once you find your balance, you’ll be paddling like a pro in no time! We have had so much fun with our SUP boards at many beaches around Victoria: Point Leo, Inverloch, Walkerville, Wilsons Prom, Phillip Island, Anglesea, and Apollo Bay to name a few.

SUP-ing really is a wonderful way to connect with Mother Nature – but just remember, she can be quite changeable! Be aware of your environment as you SUP off into the sunset!

SUP-ing really is a wonderful way to connect with Mother Nature.

Thinking of giving SUP-ing a go? Let us know in the comments!

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But what does it all mean?

If you want to get into the science of it all, some of it can get pretty technical. For the most part though, the manufacturer has already investigated all the specifics and utilised the best materials to balance function and durability with the selling price. Furthermore, wherever possible, we here at Snowys try to remove confusing jargon and describe things simply. That said, some industry terms must remain.

To satisfy the curious shopper, this blog simply explains simply what they mean. Now, you can drop at least a few of these terms into the conversation next time you’re chewing the fat with your mates over your latest bit of kit.

Learn more about the gear that you’re buying. Image: Sea to Summit.

Terms Describing Fabrics:

Polyester 

Polyester is one of the most common fabrics used in tents, offering a good balance of performance and weight with a softer feel than nylon (another common tent fabric).

Polyester has good UV resistance and doesn’t stretch or sag as much as nylon when wet, having it ideal for tent flysheets. It is usually made waterproof via the application of a PU coating.

Polyester fabric is super common on tents. Image: Coleman Australia

Nylon 

Nylon doesn’t have the same UV resistance as polyester, and stretches when wet. This has it less often used for tent flysheets. Plus, it generally has a stiffer feel and is more expensive than polyester. Nylon is generally used for backpacks, as it is abrasion-resistant with a high tear strength.

Nylon is used on a range of products. Image: Marmot

Packcloth 

This is an abrasive and tear-resistant cloth used for heavier duty applications, such as backpacks. It comes in many forms, is heavier in weight than the fabrics found in tent flysheets, and commonly made of either polyester or nylon.

Canvas

Traditionally, canvas was 100% cotton and used to make swags and tents, before synthetics made their way into the market. The cotton canvas was usually waterproofed with a coating of wax, but the fabrics end up being quite heavy. Despite this, they are very breathable; a great fabric for warm, dry climates.

Along with breathability, canvas also offers good insulation and UV resistance. Compared to synthetics too, it is quieter in the wind!

Along with breathability, canvas also offers good insulation, is quieter in the wind compared to synthetics and has good UV resistance.

Canvas is super durable and perfect for swags and touring tents. Image: Darche

Polycotton 

The term ‘polycotton’ indicates that the yarn used to make the product is a mix of polyester and cotton. Most tents and shelters today labelled as ‘canvas’ are actually polycotton canvas. The combination means that the canvas boasts the benefits of both cotton and polyester.

The percentage of polyester is usually higher, but this means that the fabric is lighter and stronger than cotton canvas. It also means PU coatings can be applied effectively to create a reliable waterproof barrier.

Polycotton blends the best of natural and synthetic fibres together. Image: Oztent

Oxford 

This simply refers to the type of weave used to create the fabric. An Oxford fabric is made with a basket weave that usually creates a visible texture. It is generally a sturdy fabric, a lighter alternative to pack cloth, and ideal for the application of coatings.

Taffeta 

This is another term that refers to how the fabric is constructed. Taffeta fabrics usually have a smoother, crisper feel, and are lighter in weight compared to Oxford fabrics – though don’t offer the same tear strength and durability.

Taffeta is commonly found in applications where weight is a primary consideration.

Taffeta is more suited for lightweight applications. Image: Marmot

Pongee 

Pongee is yet another term that refers to how the fabric is made. It is usually constructed with a combination of natural and synthetic fibres, offering the benefits of both to create a thin, soft, and easy-to-clean fabric that is not easily damaged.

Pongee is ideal for sleeping bag linings, as it is comfortable against the skin and does not add bulk or weight to the bag. Tightly woven Pongee is used for high-end umbrellas, as it creates a strong, dense fabric that blocks light, boasts excellent waterproof qualities, and is easy to print on.

Pongee is thin, soft and easy to clean. Image: Sea to Summit

Cordura and Kodra 

Both of these are heavy-duty, premium brand-named synthetics. Cordura is the trademarked name of a collection of heavy-duty, synthetic, and fibre-based materials in a fabric, first created by Dupont in the US. Some Cordura products include luggage bags, trousers, and some military wear. Kodra comes from Korea.

Both products are usually made of nylon, but can be a blend of materials and used in gear where exceptional durability, abrasion resistance, and strength are required – for example, the base of backpacks and abrasion points on apparel.

Kodra provides a lot of abrasion resistance. Image: Sea to Summit

Polyethylene (PE) 

You’ve probably heard of the ‘Poly tarp’ – an affordable, durable, and waterproof tarp that has 101 uses. These are made of Polyethylene or PE, which is a woven plastic material that creates a watertight, UV, and abrasion-resistant barrier.

It has a crinkly, stiff feel, and comes in many different weights/thicknesses to suit many applications. It’s most common use is as the good ol’ poly tarp cover.

PE is an ideal material to use as a tarp. Image: Kookaburra

No-See-Um 

This term is used in reference to insect mesh. No-See-Um mesh has many small holes, generally less than 1mm, that are too small for tiny insects like midges to squeeze through. No-See-Um mesh is not necessarily durable enough for use in heavy-duty canvas tents and swags where a fibreglass type mesh which has larger holes (1-2mm) is preferred for durability.

If you’re camping with mozzies and midges, you’ll want No-See-Um mesh on your tent. Image: Oztent

Denier, GSM, and Oz/Yd2

Denier describes a single strand of fibre measuring 9000m in length, bundled up and weighed. From that, the term ‘denier’ references a fabric’s thickness, specifically the individual fibres in its threads. The higher the number, the thicker the fibre. If 9000 metres of a single thread were to weigh 1 gram, it would be determined to be 1 Denier (1D). If 9000 metres of another fibre were to weigh 150 grams, it would be determined to be 150 Denier (150D).

This term is not to be confused with grams per square metre (gsm). Where gsm describes how many grams of fabric are in one square metre, denier is the weight of the individual fibre within that fabric. A material may have a gsm measurement that differs from that of its denier. For example, a material with a low GSM can have a high denier, common in thick fabrics that are loosely woven. On the other hand, a more tightly woven fabric would have a higher GSM.

Oz/Yd2 is the weight in ounces of a square yard of the fabric. Heavier is not always better, and should be looked at in association with the denier, thread count, and end-use.

Denier measures the thickness of fibres used in fabric. Image: Sea to Summit

Thread Count 

This is the measure of the number of threads that can be counted in a square inch of a fabric. The higher the count, the denser the fabric – which will provide better waterproofing properties.

The number is determined by adding together the threads running across the length and width, known as warp and weft. For example, if a fabric had 10 thin fibres along the length and 5 thicker fibres across the width, the fabric would have a thread count of 15.

Terms Describing Fabric Treatments and Performance:

PU Coating  

A Polyurethane or PU coating is applied to the inner side of fabric to give it waterproof properties. This coating affects the strength of the fabric, so a quality PU coating will be as thin as possible to balance fabric strength with waterproof properties and longevity.

The PU coating is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water and is breathable – albeit, not as breathable as not having the coating there at all.

This coating repels water and is also breathable. Image: Coleman Australia

Siliconised 

Where a PU coating is laminated to one side of a fabric, siliconised fabric, usually nylon, is actually impregnated with liquid silicon. This means the coating is on both sides of the fabric. The silicone-impregnated fibre greatly improves tear strength, allowing much lighter fabrics to be produced.

As silicone is hydrophobic or ‘water-hating’, siliconised fabrics create a reliably waterproof, albeit non-breathable fabric. That said, they are generally more expensive than their PU-coated counterparts.

Siliconised fabric improves the strength of the fabric. Image: Sea to Summit

DWR 

This stands for ‘Durable Water Repellency’, and refers to a coating applied to the outside of a fabric to cause water to bead off it (similar to how it does on a waxed car) and assist with breathability. The feature simply provides added waterproofing of some tents, sleeping bags, and jackets – so camping in wet weather is like water off a duck’s back!

A DWR coating is not permanent, and needs re-application after significant use with aftermarket solutions from the likes of Nikwax and Grangers.

DWR is an essential treatment for waterproofing gear. Image: MSR

Waterhead Rating

This is a measure of how waterproof a fabric is, usually measured in millilitres. The waterproof properties are created through the application of a PU coating or a laminating process such as used by Gore-Tex. For more info on waterhead ratings, check out this article here or join Lauren and Ben in their chat with Ryan from Zempire throughout Episode 16, Tent Waterhead Ratings with Zempire.

Breathable 

This simply refers to the fabric’s ability to pass water vapour. Cotton is highly breathable, followed by many synthetics. PU coatings that are applied to create a waterproof barrier still offer some breathability, which is why many jackets claim to be breathable and waterproof. Saying that, they pass water vapour at a much slower rate than uncoated fabrics.

There are more expensive, high-tech fabrics such as Gore-Tex and eVent too. These are made from 2-3 layers of laminated fabrics to provide water protection, with a high level of breathability (higher than a PU coating). The science behind these is complicated, and they all have their limitations in certain extreme climates – yet these are not usually noticed by the average user.

Gore-Tex provides water protection and breathability. Image: Gore-Tex

Seam Sealing / Taped Seam

This is a process done during manufacturing that involves adding a layer of tape over the stitching to prevent any leaks in a tent, jacket, bag, etc. from where the needle has punctured the fabric. When the polyurethane-coated (or PU-coated) waterproof fabric is stitched together, leaking points remain within the seams. Tape is then applied with heat and pressure, producing a seal.

Any gear with weather-exposed seams that has not had this tape sealant applied cannot really be classed as waterproof without other design elements added to prevent leaks.

Seam sealing prevents leaks inside your gear. Image: Zempire

Tear Strength 

This is the ability of a fabric to withstand an existing tear or cut from becoming any larger.

Ripstop

The term ‘ripstop’ alone refers to a method of fabric design where a heavier denier fibre is woven through a material in a grid-like pattern (mimicking maths graph paper). This prevents tearing in the fabric, or simply stops an existing tear from growing any further.

The ripstop feature can be found in canvas and polyester as well as nylon, but more common in the latter due to its lightweight construction requiring more durability.

Ripstop is a reinforcement that keeps your fabric from tearing under stress. Image: Sea to Summit

Metals Used in Outdoor Products:

Aluminium 

A type of metal that doesn’t offer the same strength as steel, but is much lighter. In fact, steel is typically 2.5 times denser than aluminium. Aluminium’s strength, however, is ample for most of what we require in our camping gear.

Aluminium is more expensive than steel, but can be is easily formed into all sorts of shapes and extrusions that steel cannot – such as sail tracks, lightweight tri-pegs, and pole fittings. There are many different grades of aluminium depicted by four-digit numbers from 1000 upwards, with the 6000 and 7000 series commonly found in camping gear.

An aluminium frame offers lightweight structure. Image: Oztent

Alloy 

Often confused with aluminium (which is a single element), alloy is made up of a combination of elements where aluminium is the predominant metal. It’s a bit like a single-malt whisky versus a blended.

Combining elements to create an alloy means the material can be enhanced to best suit the strength and weight required for the end purpose.

Alloy gives you a bit more strength while still being light. Image: Darche

Steel 

Steel is an alloy in that it is made up of several elements. To simplify: steel is a low-cost heavy material with a high tensile strength, found in camping applications where weight is not a primary factor but strength is.

From tent poles to stoves, fire pits, and appliances, right down to the nuts, bolts, and screws used to assemble your gear – steel can be found everywhere.

Steel is popular among camping gear for its strength. Image: Coleman Australia

Plastics Used in Outdoor Gear:

ABS Plastic 

Think Lego. Those sharp little bricks (that hurt more than anything in the world when you step on them) last a lifetime, and keep performing! These are made from Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, or ABS plastic.

It’s impact-resistant, strong, stiff, has good chemical resistance, and performs well in both high and low temperatures. ABS plastic is also easy and affordable for manufacturers to work with. You’ll find this material on lanterns, head torches, and tents that have plastic components.

PU 

Polyurethane, or PU, is extremely versatile and exists in many forms. In the camping industry, we often see it used for a waterproof coating on fabrics and the foam we sleep on in camp mats. It can be made to be rigid or flexible, and is also found in adhesives, shoe soles, insulation, and plastic parts for automobiles.

PU creates a waterproof barrier. Image: Sea to Summit 

TPU 

This stands for Thermoplastic Polyurethane and the difference between TPU and PU gets scientific. In a nutshell, TPU is stronger, less prone to cracking, and more flexible than PU – although, given the higher cost, is not as commonly used for waterproof coatings on fabrics.

TPU is more commonly found in applications where durably flexible plastics are required, such as hoses and bladders (like those in hydration packs and inflatable tent poles) and the support structures of footwear.

TPU is flexible, making it perfect for inflatable tent poles. Image: Zempire

PVC 

Polyvinyl Chloride, or PVC (also referred to as vinyl), is used widely. It is a dense and strong material, and can be rigid as in the case of plumbing pipes but made flexible with the addition of plasticisers.

The PVC we see in camping realms is a polyester fabric coated in PVC to create a heavy-duty fabric of sorts. This creates a completely waterproof, abrasion- and UV-resistant, but non-breathable barrier. They’re commonly found in tent and swag floors, heavy-duty waterproof bags, and transport covers for awnings and rooftop tents.

Coating fabric in PVC creates a strong fabric ideal for gear bags. Image: Darche

Zippers:

YKK 

Synonymous with a good quality zip, a YKK zipper indicates that a manufacturer has not snuck a cheap alternative into what is probably one of the most important elements of the product you have purchased – because if the zipper fails, you probably can’t use it. YKK zippers are strong, reliable, and don’t become sticky with time.

YKK is an acronym for the company that manufactures the zippers, ‘Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha’. The company originated in Japan before becoming worldwide.  You will likely see a number associated with a zipper, indicating the gauge of the zipper. There are two types of zipper – coil and stamped. Coil zippers are smooth and handle curves and corners well, whereas a stamped zipper is much chunkier-looking and ideal for more heavy-duty applications.

SBS 

YKK’s biggest competitor is the Chinese-based company ‘SBS’. They produce high-quality zippers, though have a long way to go if they want to knock YKK off their perch as the world’s zipper behemoth!

Zippers are an important feature of your gear. Image: Sea to Summit

Other Jargon:

Billy

…Could be a member of your camping party, but also refers to a deep cooking vessel made of tin, aluminium, or stainless steel with a handle and lid. A billy is used to cook over a campfire.

Bivy / Hoochie

A bivy describes a waterproof sack for emergency purposes, made of a tarp-like material. The term is also used in mountaineering, referring to a small space in which a camper can ‘bivy down on’.

Unlike a Hoochie – a piece of tarp that serves as a small covering – a bivy is best described as a bag rather than a shelter, similar to the people-sized plastic bags worn at an AFL game during wet weather.

Blunnies

Simply a shortened term for Blundstone boots. While ‘blunnies’ originates from a specific brand, it can also refer to any leather boot with elastic sides. The exception is R.M. William boots, a classier style instead dubbed as ‘RMs’.

BTU

A BTU is an acronym for a unit of heat measurement called the British Thermal Unit, often indicated on kitchen appliances such as stoves.

While BTUs are a non-descript unit of measurement (unlike millilitres, which simply measure volumes of water), Ben and Lauren discuss them further on the Snowys Camping Show in Ep41 – Camp Stove Comparisons. Here, they uncover how BTUs are quantifiable, how they’re measured, and how many degrees a certain number of BTUs translates to.

Cairn

Often marking a high point on a mountain, a cairn describes a neat pile of rocks traditionally constructed for navigational purposes. Cairns tend to be landmarks on mountain peaks or indicators of when a path may change course. Lauren describes a large cairn on the top of Mt Cavern in South Australia, measuring roughly 170cm tall and as wide as a standard-sized, circular tabletop.

Carbon Fibre

Known for its strength and minimal weight, carbon fibre is actually made from organic polymers: very long, thin strings of molecules around 5-10 microns in diameter. It is commonly used on gear such as trekking and tent poles, as well as for other applications in fields such as aerospace, construction, and engineering due to its strong yet lightweight construction.

Composite 

A composite material is something made up of two different materials that work together to enhance the performance of the material. The materials are not blended; they can be seen as two different products within the final product. Fibreglass is an example of a composite material, in that you can see both materials in the final product: glass fibres set within a plastic.

Crampon

A crampon is the spikey attachment fastened to the bottom of a pair of boots for added grip when ice climbing or trekking through snow.

DEET

Another acronym, DEET refers to Diethyl Toluamide which is an ingredient found in most supermarket insect repellents. The chemical is relatively strong and can cause discomfort on sensitive skin types, so best applied in moderation. For more information on this product, check out Ep31 – Creepy Crawlies at the Campsite.

Dilly Bag

The brother of the tucker bag, a dilly bag allows campers to carry their cutlery and crockery. This could also be a tea towel, serving a dual purpose for cleaning dishes after use.

Dome Tent

A tent primarily identified by its dome shape. Usually, a dome tent consists of two or more curved poles and varies in size from a 2-person through to family-sized shelters.

Donga

This term can initially read as a little crass (don’t fight it, we were all thinking it) – however, a donga refers to a transportable house or room! Usually constructed with lightweight materials to allow easy transportation from site to site, dongas are often utilised as a classroom or means of accommodation for workers.

Donkey Shower

Most know a ‘donkey shower’ as simply water heated by a campfire and transported through to the outdoor showerhead.

Moreover, the shower is a homebuilt unit comprising of a tall canister (like that of LPG gas) filled with water. When heated over a fire, the water boils and creates a natural pressure that pushes it upwards and out through the showerhead. A donkey shower follows the science involved in hot air rising, responding to the natural pressure from the steam.

Down

The fine layer of feathers found under a bird’s tough exterior layer. Down is used in the fill of lightweight sleeping bags and jackets, owing to its good warmth to weight ratio.

Ferrule

A ferrule is a small metal tube that is often used in the case of a broken tent pole. The ferrule is threaded over the snapped pole and fixed with gaffer tape to allow further use when spare poles aren’t accessible.

Some pop-up tents have poles that if snapped can be difficult to replace, so ferrules are often handy to keep on hand in such situations for repair purposes.

Fibreglass 

This is a type of plastic that is reinforced with glass fibre. It offers excellent strength for its weight when compared to many metals, plus flexibility. Fibreglass is generally used in tent poles as a more affordable but heavier alternative to alloy or aluminium tent poles.

Fibreglass is strong and flexible, making it ideal for tent poles. Image: Oztent

Flysheet

The waterproof component that creates the second outer skin of a dual-layer tent.

Footprint

A groundsheet manufactured specifically to the dimensions of a tent. Each tent will have its own unique footprint.

Freestanding

The term ‘freestanding’ refers to when a tent is independently holding its shape. More relevant to hiking tents, the word describes those which can be erected fully without the need for pegs. Occasionally, rocky or rugged terrain on a mountainside won’t allow for sufficient pegging – and while freestanding tents help in these circumstances, the use of guy ropes are still recommended to anchor the tent to the ground.

Gear Loft

A piece of fabric (usually mesh) attached to the ceiling of your tent to create a small hammock for gear storage.

Geodesic

This term refers to a domed shelter with more than two crossing poles. Often a geodesic shelter will include multiple poles to enable a sturdier, more steadfast model.

Glamping

Camping with luxuries – the polar opposite of ‘roughing it’.

GORP

If you’re an avid outdoorsman or woman, something you’re sure to love more than an acronym is Good Old Raisins and Peanuts! As the full term suggests, GORP refers to a variety of trail mix.

Grommet

No, not the clay companion of Wallace, or a grubby child into wicked outdoor adventure sports – a grommet in camping terms refers to the small metal ring in the corner of your tarp! Also known as an ‘eyelet’, a grommet aids the pegging and securing of a piece of tarp into the ground.

Groundsheet

A sheet of material, usually a tarp, used beneath a tent to protect the floor from harsh ground. A groundsheet is also used as a floor covering of a campsite’s living area.

Guy Ropes / Lines

Lengths of cord attached to the fly of a tent for stability, especially in high winds.

GVM

Simply, GVM is an initialism of Gross Vehicle Mass, which indicates the total mass your vehicle is allowed to weigh. More information on GVM can be found within a previous episode of the Snowys Camping Show, Packing Your Vehicle Like A Minimalist.

IP rating 

IP stands for ‘Ingress Protection’, used in reference to how resistant a device is to water and dust ingress. It is usually followed by two numerals: the first, which directly follows ‘IP’ indicates the level of dust protection on a scale of 0-6, and the second refers to the water-resistance on a scale of 0-9.

The higher the number, the better the protection. In the instance that an ‘X’ appears in place of a number, the device has not been tested for that ingress. For example, a product with an IP67 rating has been tested for both dust and water, IPX7 has only been tested for water, and IP6X has only been tested for dust.

You’ll find IP ratings on gear such as flashlights and head torches. Image: BioLite

Kindling

Twigs and leaves that catch alight easily, used to ignite a fire.

Lightweight & Ultralight Hikers

Each term refers to a group of people who aim to carry as less weight on their hike as they realistically can.

While ‘lightweight’ covers most hikers who enjoy trekking without bearing the bulk, ultralight hikers are within the realm of those who cut down anywhere they can – for example, removing small items such as toothbrushes. A load weighing 12kg can be considered ‘ultralight’.

Ultralight hikers can shed weight from their load in as little as grams. The idea is that the lighter one’s gear is, the more food can be taken for adequate top-ups on their trek. For example, cutting down 200g in one area allows room for an extra block of chocolate for emergency energy!

Loft

The volume to which an insulative material will expand or ‘puff up’. Usually used when comparing down fill in sleeping bags, the higher the loft the better the heat retention.

Packed Size

The dimensions to which a product and its included accessories will pack down for transport.

Pop-Up Tent

A tent incorporating poles, inner, and fly all in one. These tents ‘pop’ into shape, only require pegs for set-up, and generally pack away into a disc shape.

Quick Pitch Tent

A tent that does not require assembly, with a pole system attached to the inner. Examples are Black Wolf Turbo Tents and Coleman Instant Up Tents.

R-Value

An R-value is the measure of thermal resistance, used in reference to the insulation of a mattress. Lauren and Ben elaborate more on this term in Sleep System Ratings with Sea to Summit. Essentially, the R-Value indicates the ability of a material to resist heat flow. Higher values indicate better insulating properties.

Ridge and Saddle

Both geographical terms, a ridge refers to the path that links a chain of mountains, where the dip between each is called the saddle. Essentially, following the ridge will bring one to the saddle.

Ring and Pin

A system consisting of (as its name suggests) a ring attached to a tent floor, incorporating a pin inserted into the ferrule on the tent pole’s end to secure it into place.

‘Roughing It’

Doing away with any luxuries and keeping camping as simple as it can get.

SCROGGIN

The luxury GORP, this summit-time snack is a mixed bag of Sultanas Chocolate Raisins and Other Good Grub Including Nuts!

Shellite

Also known as petroleum distillate, shellite is a more refined version of unleaded petrol. Shellite is not to be confused with white spirits, which otherwise refers to a laundry detergent. In America, another term for shellite is ‘white gas’.

Shock Cord

Stretchy cord often found on the outside of backpacks for stashing jackets.

Spigot

Another fantastic tool with an equally as fantastic name, a spigot is the insert at the end of an awning or tent pole that pokes through a grommet or eyelet.

Spondoolie / Spondonical

Common in Trangia collections, a spondoolie or spondonical refers to a ‘pot gripper’, or a handle used to clip onto a pot that is too hot to lift with bare hands. A basic description of a spondoolie is two pieces of U-shaped metal with a hook on one end that grips the lip of the pot.

Summit

The summit is the highest point of a mountain.

Swag

A traditional sleeping provision for one or two, consisting of a canvas outer to protect the mattress and bedding rolled up inside. Swags range from basic canvas envelopes with zippered access and no poles, to dome-style structures that can be free-standing.

Switchback

A switchback is the path that takes a walker back up the saddle. Instead of leading straight up the slope, the switchback is the longer, more gradual route at a lower gradient.

Tensile 

Tensile strength is the force the material can withstand as it is pulled on opposite sides in opposite directions before it breaks. This measure is applied to many materials, but in fabric terms it is not to be confused with ‘tear strength’.

Tent Season

Many tents indicate a season rating that ranges between one and four, suggesting the types of weather conditions they may withstand in their lifetime. Where a two-season tent is recommended for use in Summer and Spring, a three-season tent introduces Autumn weather, and a four-season confirms year-round use.

A tent’s season rating may not be a line in the sand, but it serves as a useful guide. For example, while a one-season tent can technically allow use in colder environments, it’s not recommended. This is because the materials and features differ between a one-season and four-season tent, where the latter often has a higher water rating, a full mesh inner, and higher-grade poles.

Tinder

Not the app, but a similar concept – tinder in camping terms refers to the flammable material that can be lit with a mere spark for the purpose of lighting kindling for a campfire.

Ah, just like love.

Tinder doesn’t refer to a specific material. Where a cotton bud is one of many examples, other tinder materials can come from particular parts of timber.

Tinny

Commonly describing a small aluminium boat, a tinny also refers to a can of beer.

Toilet Types

Don’t worry, bringing toilet paper to the campsite doesn’t make you a party pooper. Beyond the domestic dunnies, it’s common to utilize various portable toilet types on a road trip. Examples of eco-friendly varieties include compost, sawdust, and transportable.

Compost and sawdust toilets are both ‘dry’ toilets that treat and process waste through biological composting. Most don’t involve water for flushing, where sawdust is an example of an additive used to create air pockets in the waste to initiate aerobic decomposition. Alternatively, transportable toilets flush away waste into a holding tank located beneath the seat. Chemicals inside reduce smells and germs until the waste is emptied.

Other eco-toilets include outhouses and biogas digesters. Where an outhouse describes a small structure housing a toilet and located away from a main home or building, a biogas digester applies an anaerobic system to decompose waste and convert it into renewable biogas. This gas can subsequently be used as cooking fuel.

Troopy

In classic Aussie lingo, a Toyota Land Cruiser Troop Carrier is commonly shortened to ‘Troopy’. These 4WDs are as tough as nails against the off-road terrain.

Tub Floor

A waterproof floor that continues up the sides of the tent to improve water ingress in wet conditions.

Tucker Bag

A tucker bag describes fabric used to wrap and encase food in, tied on the end of a long stick. Picture the jolly swagman in Waltzing Matilda!

UHF Vs UHF CB Radios

Ultra-High Frequency (UHF) radios are typically used for communicating between vehicles when convoy driving and scanning highways. As UHF radio transmissions don’t allow private communication, those in range are privy to all conversations. For this reason, general etiquette is expected.
A UHF CB radio is that of Ultra-High Frequency Citizen Band, for wider use by civilians.

Where some channels available are used for general conversation and chit-chat, other channels are for emergencies concerning relevant services, such as an ambulance.

Ultra Lightweight

The absolute minimum amount of accessories required for an item to be used in the field. Often also made of extremely lightweight, but not necessarily durable material.

Vestibule

A vestibule – pronounced ‘veh-stah-byool’ – is the front section of a tent, not to be mistaken for the awning.

Where an awning is pegged out for shade, the vestibule provides space between the inner and the fly of a tent or swag. Moreover, it refers to the additional triangular shaped fabric pegged out to allow extra shade or weather protection for any gear kept outside.

Waterproof

Meaning impervious to water in line with its waterhead rating.

Water-Resistant

Resists splashes and light showers but is water penetrable.

White Gas

A clean burning fuel for stoves, similar to Shellite.

What materials do you find perform best what it comes to outdoor gear? 

The post Outdoor Jargon Explained appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Planning meals for a trip away can be a daunting task. Often, there are no shops nearby to grab that ingredient you left behind – and you don’t have the luxury of a 450-litre fridge for loads of food. It’s important to prepare well.

Firstly, don’t discount the idea of freeze-dried or dehydrated food as simple camp food options. Despite what you may have heard – their ingredients are real food, they usually taste pretty good, and they are easy to prepare! These options also have long shelf lives, require no refrigeration, and are compact – so you can stock up ahead of time in preparation for last-minute adventures.

Below, I’ve covered some straightforward methods to meal planning, as well as some of the quick, simple, and lightweight options on the market today. For more info on how to plan lightweight meals for a multi-hike, check out this blog too. 

Last minute food for your trip can be sorted out quick smart. Image: Sea to Summit

Camping

Eating Well at the Campsite

Food and sleep are two of the most important things to consider when heading away on holiday. If you manage to get enough of both, you’ll be in a much better mindset to appreciate the outdoors.

• Think about the variety of meals that use the same ingredients, such as tomatoes and mince meat – for example, both ingredients are found in Bolognese and tacos.
• How much room do you have in the fridge or icebox? Do you need lots of ingredients to be kept cold? Remember, you’ll need space for beer, wine, and other drinks. Minimise what needs to be refrigerated, and look for non-perishable alternatives. For more tips on food storage, check out Meal Planning and Food Storage for Outdoor Adventuring.
• Don’t forget snacks and dessert!
• Include staples such as cooking oil, butter, tomato sauce, tea, coffee, salt, and pepper.

Planning Your Meals

Camping doesn’t have to call for just BBQs for breakfast, lunch, and dinner – there are many more colourful and camp-friendly meals that are simply delicious. I mean that in every sense of the term: straightforward, tasty, and just objectively good.

For a 5-day camping trip, below is what a standard menu could look like. Yes, bakery food is on the menu. Driving to your favourite camping spot can sometimes mean passing through old country towns – and therefore old fashioned, delicious, country bakeries. Don’t pass up the opportunity to stop in.

A standard 5-day camping menu. Credit: David Leslie

Another no-brainer is baked beans.

…Hear me out.

Snowys’ seasoned chef Cam demonstrates his rustic take on that standard, canned, Sunday night staple sitting in your pantry.

Check it out below, or see here for more of his simple campsite dishes:

Watch ‘Camp Cooking with Cam’ on our YouTube channel, every Sunday from 6pm.

Gathering Your Ingredients

Some items will need to be bought, others you likely already have an abundance of in the pantry or fridge at home.

You may have many core ingredients already in your home pantry or fridge. Credit: David Leslie

Remember, preparing for your trip should be exciting – not a headache! Set yourself up with a list like the above to take the stress away, and be sure to have everything you need – and everything you want, like chocolate!

Hiking

So, you’ve decided to finally start training and planning for a multi-day hike! Once again, for more info on how to plan lightweight meals better suited to hiking, check out this blog.

Let us now run through the pros and cons of the lightweight options: freeze-dried, dehydrated, and wet-pack food.

Freeze-Dried Meals

How Are They Made?

Freeze-dried meals are rapidly frozen, where the ice crystals in the food are evaporated to water vapour in a vacuum chamber via a process called ‘sublimation’. This removes more moisture than dehydrating does.

The food is then heat-sealed into foil packages, and the air is both removed and replaced with nitrogen gas.

These products have a shelf life of up to three years.

Pros

• Water is quickly absorbed back into the food through pores left by the escaping ice crystals.
• Food is prepared quickly in approximately 10 minutes using with hot water.
• Food does not shrink.
• Food retains much of its original shape, taste, texture, and smell.
• Vitamins are retained in the food due to the low temperatures applied in processing.
• Food can be eaten without re-hydrating, if necessary.
• The freeze-drying process removes up to 98% of moisture from the product. On average, fruit contains up to 90% water, so freeze-dried foods are extremely lightweight.

Cons

• Their labelling indicates a gourmet, home-cooked meal – and whilst the flavour is pretty good, their consistency is nonetheless best eaten with a spoon.
• Extra water should be considered for food preparation, and this is especially important when lightweight hiking.

Freeze-dried meals are light and packed with energy. Image: Campers Pantry

Dehydrated Food

How Is It Made?

Dehydrated food is produced by passing warm air over the food for a period of time, evaporating the moisture from the product (a similar process to sun-dried foods). These products usually carry a 12-month shelf life.

Pros

• Can be done at home with relatively affordable equipment.
• As the food shrivels, it is a better space-saving method for storing or transporting food than freeze-dried alternatives (which retains much of its original shape).
• Generally less expensive than freeze-dried foods.
• While dehydrating food does not remove quite as much water as the freeze-drying method, it is still a very lightweight option.

Cons

• Requires cooking/simmering to prepare, and 10-20 minutes in hot water.
• As more heat is applied in the drying process in comparison to freeze-drying, it is believed that dehydrated food has a slightly lower nutritional value than freeze-dried foods.
• Can have a chewy texture when rehydrated.
• Extra water needs to be considered to prepare food, and this is especially important when lightweight hiking.

For more on how to dehydrate your own food, check out our chat with ecologist and YouTuber Dr. Kate Grarock on the Snowys Camping Show podcast:

We chat more about how to dehydrate your own food with Dr. Kate Grarock.

You can buy dehydrated food from the supermarket, or make your own. Image: Sea to Summit

Wet-Pack Food

How Is It Made?

This camp food is not dehydrated or freeze-dried – but fresh, pre-cooked food packed wet into pouches. The manufacturing process produces a ‘retort’ product, packaged the same way canned products are but in a soft pouch.

The retort packaging method involves cooking at high temperatures to kill all microorganisms. These products usually have 18-month best-before dates as opposed to use-by dates. This means that while the food quality degrades after 18 months, it is still safe to eat.

Wet-pack food brands include Go Native and Offgrid Provisions. 

Pros

• The pouch is simply heated in a pot of boiling water.
• Less water is required for preparation, and boiled water can be used for drinking or washing.
• Can be eaten cold.
• Boasts the flavour and consistency of home-cooked meals.

Cons

• Usually too heavy for hiking, so better suited for camping or kayaking.

Wet-pack food is a little heavier than other options. Image: Go Native.

Dietary Requirements: Freeze-Dried Options

For those with dietary needs, there are many options out there. See below, or check out our full range here. Happy camp cooking!

Vegan

Back Country Cuisine

• Mushroom Bolognaise
• Pasta Vegetariano

Vegetarian

Back Country Cuisine

• Vegetarian Stirfry
• Nasi Goreng

Radix Nutrition

• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – KETO 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Turkish Falafel – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Turkish Falafel – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – KETO 600 v8.0

Gluten-Free

Back Country Cuisine

• Thai Chicken Curry
• Nasi Goreng
• Cooked Breakfast
• Classic Beef Curry
• Mexican Chicken
• Honey Soy Chicken
• Beef Teriyaki

Radix Nutrition

• Grass-Fed Lamb, Mint & Rosemary – ORIGINAL 600 v7.0
• Grass-Fed Lamb, Mint & Rosemary – ULTRA 800 v7.0
• Grass-Fed Lamb, Mint & Rosemary – KETO 600
• Grass-Fed Beef Mexican Chilli – ORIGINAL 600 v7.0
• Grass-Fed Beef Mexican Chilli – ULTRA 800 v7.0
• Grass-Fed Beef Mexican Chilli – KETO 600
• Grass-Fed Barbecue Beef – ORIGINAL 600 v7.0
• Grass-Fed Turkish Lamb – ORIGINAL 600 v7.0
• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Mexican Chilli – KETO 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Turkish Falafel – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Turkish Falafel – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – ORIGINAL 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – ULTRA 800 v8.0
• Plant-Based Indian Curry – KETO 600 v8.0
• Plant-Based Mixed Berry Breakfast – ORIGINAL 400 v8.0

What do you prefer to eat when you’re camping and hiking? 

The post Quick and Easy Meals for Camping and Hiking appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Sometimes, the excitement of going camping can be almost as intense as the trip itself. Part of that is packing all your gear into the car in preparation for a safe and enjoyable trip. Whatever your preferred outdoor activity is, a list could very useful. How many times have you forgotten something in the middle of nowhere, and it’s a bit late to get another one?

Writing a checklist gives you that peace of mind that you’ve properly prepared for your trip.

Planning and Preparation

Caravanning

Your destination determines what you list and pack, and the spares you take. Camping in a remote location would require a different kit to what would be in a park close to a town and with access to supplies. Pre-planning and listing items for both scenarios are wise processes.

Prior to caravanning, remember:

• Manual brake: off
• Water pump: off (plug taken out)
• Inside taps: down
• All doors and drawers: secure
• Windows and hatches: closed
• Fridge setting: correct
• Gas bottles: off and secure
• All 240-volt power cables disconnected
• Awning: secure
• Pop-top roof locks: down
• Radio and TV antenna: down
• Stabilizers and wheel braces: removed
• Air conditioner covers: on/off
• Safety chains and stabiliser: connected and secure
• Lights: working
• Water tank valves: shut
• Wheel chocks and jockey wheel: stowed
• The wife and kids: in the car

Hiking and Camping

For hiking, backpack weight is extremely important – so list your days, proposed meals, maybe an extra day’s worth of food (to be safe), snacks, clothes, and a compass.

Space is also very important on a camping trip, so first list the tent, fly, and ground sheet. Check that you haven’t lost any pegs, your torches are operating, and you have spare batteries. Ensure the gas bottle or canisters are full, don’t forget new mantles for your gas light and, as above, plan your meals ahead. It’ll make life easier.

Another suggestion is to jot down every time you run low on an item in the camp kit, so you know to replenish it before you head off next time.

Fill Your Gas Bottle

Don’t wait to arrive at the campsite before realising you’ve run out of gas.

• Check your bottle is in date – it must be tested and restamped every ten years
• Top it up, even if it doesn’t feel it needs to be
• Determine whether there is enough gas for your trip, and if there is anywhere you can fill up en route
• If you’re going on an extended trip, or feeding an army that likes bacon and eggs three times a day – consider carrying a spare gas bottle!

Imagine setting up camp, dreaming of BBQ snags… then realising you’re out of gas!

Keep Your Cool

Keeping perishable food fresh and drinks cold requires the right gear to do the job. From the humble but robust ice boxes through to the many 12-volt fridges on the market – buy the best you can afford, as it will be more effective and last many years.

For those with a fridge, cool it down by turning it on the weekend before you’re due to head away.

• Cooling your fridge first using 240-volt (e.g. in a shed) will ensure all your food stays cold on the first day of your travels
• If it’s already cool, the fridge won’t have to work so hard from the car battery
• Turning your fridge on early will allow the chance to ensure it’s working properly. Don’t forget to test it in the car too!
• Freeze any meat you have in preparation too. Frozen meat will last longer, and it will help keep the fridge cold for the first few days – which will use less power too!
• For more tips on getting the most out of your camping fridge, read here

Check Your Tent

OK – this one requires a bit more effort! Your tent or camper trailer is probably the most important to check.

The last thing you want is to arrive at camp only to find you have a mouldy tent, or no pegs and poles!

Drag your tent out of the shed, set it up in the backyard, and give it a good once-over:

• Ensure all componentry is there
• Ensure the tent isn’t mouldy or brittle
• Check for holes and unravelled stitching
• Check for broken poles and bent pegs
• Remind yourself how to pitch the tent… so you don’t look like a turkey at the campground!

Test Your Air Mattress or Sleeping Mat

Ensure your mat and sleeping bag are warm enough. A tarp with associated pegs, poles, and guy ropes is also suggested for any inclement weather – this allows plenty of space to cook, read, and relax in the dry. If you have roof racks on your vehicle too, consider using them as a tie-down point for one side of the tarp.

If you use an air mattress or self-inflating mat, check it a few days before your trip. Pump it up, put some weight on it, and allow it to sit out overnight. You don’t want to find out the hard way that it has a leak!

• Check for leaks early, so you have the chance to fix or replace the mattress. If there is one, repair it or buy a new one.
• Allow the foam in your self-inflating mattress to expand properly. This may take a few days if it has been rolled up for a while!

If you discovered this after you set up camp…you’re not going to have a very enjoyable trip, that’s for sure!

Charge or Purchase Batteries

Most adventurers have left for their trip at least once without charging the electric lantern, or buying new batteries for the kids’ torches!

Batteries run flat while sitting around in the shed, so check all your battery-powered gear.

• Rechargeable batteries may need a whole week of charging to bring them back to life. Overnight tends not to be long enough for a battery lantern or bed pump.
• Make sure all your battery-operated devices work
• Check if old batteries have leaked inside the device
• Always take a spare set of batteries!

Check Your Vehicle

For extended trips, ensure your vehicle has:

• Engine oil
• Radiator fluid
• A basic toolset
• A means to inflate your tyre – trust me, it is possible to get two flats in one weekend!

Check your tyre pressure (including the spare), consider bringing a jerry can of fuel, and even take your vehicle to have a basic service. You never know what might be discovered!

Supplies and Equipment

Cookware and Appliances

The Companion 2-burner stove puts out impressive heat, while camp ovens are brilliant on a campfire – and there are dozens of recipes out there on camp cooking. A fridge or icebox and a plastic storage container should both adequately hold your food and prevent animals from invading.

In National Parks, tables and BBQs are often already provided. For other areas, pack a camp table or perhaps a second plastic box to act as one. A tub to wash up in is also essential.

A small selection of cooking pots, a frypan, durable plates, and cutlery is usually all one requires, with a billy, spoon, and knife the very basics of cooking. That said, a wok can be extremely useful in a camp cooking kit too.

Lighting

The invention of LED lighting is a camper’s dream! Compact, low power-consumption, and many shapes and sizes to suit any application – there is so much available. A good headlamp provides adequate hands-free lighting for those inevitable campsite chores after sundown.

Water

Water is important for drinking, cooking, or perhaps extinguishing a fire. One should never be without a good supply of water in the bush.

How much water you need to carry will depend on what is available at your campsite, both in quantity and quality. The real issue is how to carry it. Some options are:

• 20-litre plastic drums (types that don’t leave a plastic-like taste!)
• Water tanks fitted to your vehicle (an expensive option)
• 10-litre Watercells, or spring water casks available from the supermarket (the taps from these can be easily removed, and the bladders refilled)

Toiletries

Aside from a portable toilet, for those roughing it remote – a toothbrush, floss, and multi-purpose wash are the often the most necessary hygiene items. Toilet paper can be awkward to pack – so for the lightweight travellers, a pocket-sized toilet or simply the sublime strength of newspaper often handles rear-end activities!

Odds and Ends

Sometimes, it’s necessary to have a separate box just for these!

Think a hatchet, lighter, spare cord, mosquito coils, sunscreen, repellent, tinder, and a rag or two. These items are usually easy to pick up on the way to your destination too.

Matches are essential too – and be sure to check out Fire Safety and Preparation for Camping for all the tips on creating and maintaining a safe campfire!

Leisure Items

These include books, music, balls or toys, cards, hiking shoes, campfire stories, and a comfortable camp chair.

Coffee makers are a luxury – but an indulgence worth endorsing! Check out those by AeroPress and Wacaco for your next cuppa at the campsite.