Australia has no shortage of ways to spend a long weekend outdoors – from a powered caravan park site with the kids in tow, to a 4WD track most people don’t know exists, to a walk-in campsite at the end of a hiking trail. There’s no wrong way to do it. But there absolutely is a wrong set of gear – and the right kit, sorted in advance, is the difference between a long weekend of freedom and a long weekend of frustration.

Know Your Camping Style

This guide covers five camping styles – caravan park, national park, 4WD/touring, remote, and human-powered adventure – plus a section on gearing for hot and cold conditions. Find your style, check the essentials list, and kit out accordingly. Most gear crosses over well between styles once you have a solid base kit. These lists aren’t exhaustive; they simply cover of on the essentials.

We’ve popped in some helpful links to our website categories to get you started, and we’re always happy to help you put together the perfect camp kit — so don’t hesitate to reach out to us here anytime!

1. Caravan Park Camping – The Classic Aussie Long Weekend

Best for: Families with young kids, first-timers, and those who want to relax in the outdoors without being completely on their own.

Caravan parks are the easiest entry point into long weekend camping – powered sites, hot showers, camp kitchens, and often a pool or playground on-site. What you take is limited only to what your vehicle can transport, and it’s likely you’ll be able to shop for food once you arrive. Bring the stretchers, the kids’ bikes, games. No reason to hold back.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Large family tent or cabin tent – plenty of room for three nights
• Stretcher beds or camp mattress – comfort over three nights makes a real difference
• Sleeping bags rated for the season
• Camp table and chairs, including kids’ versions
• Full camp kitchen setup – optional if you plan on using the facilities at the park
• Esky or Icebox – caravan parks often have a fridge you can use
• Power board and extension cord for the powered hook-up – parks often require orange 15A leads, and choose a power board with overload protection
• LED lights, headlamps and/or torches
• Entertainment for three days – bikes, balls, fishing rods, outdoor games

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Long weekend caravan parks fill up weeks – sometimes months – in advance. Don’t leave the booking until the week before. Check cancellation policies too; plans change.

2. National Park Camping – Nature with a Safety Net

Best for: Families, couples, and nature lovers who want genuine immersion in the outdoors with some basic facilities still in place.

National park camping puts you in genuinely spectacular country with a basic safety net still in place – amenities block, fire rings, rangers nearby, and a designated site that’s yours for the weekend. You’re more self-sufficient than a caravan park (no mains power or water, longer drive from town) but nowhere near the demands of true remote camping. It’s the natural next step up, and a great confidence builder.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• A reliable weather-rated tent – national park conditions can be unpredictable
• Sleeping bag and mat rated for the overnight temperatures
• Portable gas stove – fires are frequently banned or restricted, don’t rely on them
• Water storage – carry enough for the full long weekend even if tap water is on-site
• Water treatment or filtration as a backup
• LED lantern and headlamps
• Camp table and chairs
• 12V Fridge or quality icebox
• 12V portable battery + solar panel for extended stays – no mains power on-site
• Download maps offline before you leave – phone signal in national parks is unreliable
• PLB recommended, especially in larger or more remote parks
• First aid kit and insect protection

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Long weekend bookings for popular national parks sell out fast – sometimes months in advance. Check the relevant park authority’s booking system early: SA National Parks, Parks Victoria, NSW National Parks, and Queensland National Parks all have online booking. Don’t assume you can rock up and find a site.

3. 4WD / Touring – The Vehicle is the Base Camp

Best for: Adventure drivers, serious gear enthusiasts, and those who want to use a long weekend to explore country that most people never reach.

4WD camping turns the vehicle itself into the base camp – rooftop tent, 12V fridge, dual battery, onboard water – letting you reach places most setups simply can’t. A long weekend is just enough to get well off the beaten track and back without rushing. The gear investment is significant once vehicle mods start, but even a modest 4WD with a swag in the back is a formidable long weekend machine.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Rooftop or touring tent, or quality swag
• Sleeping bag and mat rated for the overnight temperatures
• 12V fridge/freezer to keep food and drinks cold, no ice runs required
• Dual battery system or portable power with DC-DC charger and/or folding solar
• Water storage, onboard or portable
• Water treatment – filter water as you refill 
• Gas or dual-fuel stove – a slide-out camp kitchen is the gold standard
• Camp table and chairs
• UHF radio for communication on remote tracks
• PLB or satellite communicator – non-negotiable if you’re heading well off-grid
• Vehicle recovery kit: snatch strap, shackles, MaxTrax, tyre deflator and inflator, hi-lift jack
• Full first aid kit, fire extinguisher, and a solid tool kit

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend is a great opportunity to test a new part of your setup before committing to a longer trip. Identify issues or pain points with your setup and sort it before you leave – not when you’re 80km down a track.

4. Remote Camping – Off the Grid, Alone with Nature

Best for: Experienced campers who want solitude, self-sufficiency, and a genuine long weekend reset in the outback.

Remote camping takes 4WD Camping to the next level. It means no facilities, no phone signal, no safety net – you carry everything in and carry everything out. Three days in genuinely remote country is one of the most rewarding long weekend formats in Australia, but it demands capable gear, solid planning, and likely extra travel time. This is not the time to test budget kit. One reliable piece of gear is worth more than three cheap ones that might let you down.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• A durable shelter capable of handling strong wind and rain – don’t cut corners here
• A sleeping bag and mat rated well below the expected overnight temperature
• Reliable 12V fridge/freezer to keep food and drinks cold
• Reliable stove with enough fuel for three days of cooking
• Water filtration or purification system – unless you can carry three days of water plus emergency supplies
• Satellite communicator (e.g. Zoleo or SPOT) for two-way messaging – or at minimum a PLB
• Topographic maps and compass – don’t rely on a phone for navigation in remote areas
• Leave No Trace: waste bags, trowel, biodegradable soap
• Comprehensive first aid kit
• LED lantern and headlamps
• 12V portable battery + solar panel for extended stays – no mains power on-site
• Leave a detailed trip plan with someone at home – location, route, and when to raise an alarm if needed

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend is just enough time to do remote camping properly – but not enough time to recover from poor planning. Do your route research, check weather forecasts, let someone know your plan, and carry a PLB. No exceptions.

5. Human-Powered Adventure Camping – No Vehicle Required

Best for: Hikers, cyclists, and paddlers who want to reach places a vehicle can’t – under their own steam.

Some of the best long weekend campsites in Australia can’t be driven to – they’re at the end of a long walk, around a river bend only a kayak can reach, or along a ridge only a loaded bike can access. Whatever the mode, the gear philosophy is identical: every gram has to earn its place. Buy the lightest version that’s genuinely up to the job, and the core kit can be used for any activity.

Long Weekend Gear Essentials

• Ultralight tent, tarp, or bivy – packable and weather-appropriate
• Down or synthetic sleeping bag – prioritise packability and weight
• Compact sleeping mat – packs smallest, critical for comfort over three nights
• Compact stove, lightweight cookset & dinnerware
• Water filtration – squeeze filter or straw filter for minimum weight
• Merino or synthetic base layers, waterproof shell, gloves & beanies
• Navigation: downloaded topo maps, compass, GPS or phone with offline maps
• PLB – non-negotiable for any multi-day trip away from help
• Leave No Trace hygeine: trowel, waste bags, biodegradable soap
• Headlamp with spare batteries

LONG WEEKEND TIP: A long weekend trip close to home is the ideal first human-powered adventure – long enough to find out what works, short enough to survive any surprises. Sort the kit at home, not on the trail.

Camping for the Conditions – Hot Weather vs Cold Weather Gear

Applies to all camping styles – because the Australian climate doesn’t care what your plans are.

A long weekend in Australia can mean 38°C in the Queensland outback or a sub-zero overnight in the Snowy Mountains – sometimes in the same month. Getting your gear right for the conditions isn’t just about comfort; in extremes, it’s about safety. Here’s what changes across the key gear categories.

Shelter

Hot: prioritise ventilation – large mesh inners, dual-wall construction, the ability to pitch the fly high. Lighter coloured flies reflect more heat.

Cold: choose a 3–4 season tent with a robust pole structure, low profile, and full-coverage fly that reaches near the ground to block wind and retain warmth.

Sleeping System

Hot: a liner or lightweight sheet bag is often enough – a full sleeping bag in summer is miserable.

Cold: buy a bag rated at least 5°C below the coldest overnight temperature you expect (look for EN or ISO standard temperature ratings) Your sleeping mat R-value matters as much as the bag – the ground pulls heat out of your body faster than cold air does. R4+ is essential below 5°C overnight.

Clothing and Layering

Hot: lightweight, breathable, quick-dry fabrics, a quality sun shirt, wide-brimmed hat, and UV sunglasses.

Cold: the layering system – merino base, insulating mid-layer (down or synthetic), waterproof/windproof shell. Cotton is dangerous in cold conditions; it holds moisture and loses all insulation value when wet.

Hydration

Hot: water needs can jump to 4–6+ litres per person per day with physical activity – dehydration is the most common preventable illness on Australian camping trips. Carry more than you think you need and use electrolytes in the heat.

Cold: thirst signals are suppressed in the cold even as your body needs fluids to generate warmth – drink consciously, and use hot drinks (tea, broth, coffee) to stay warm and hydrated.

Stove and Fuel

Hot: most stoves perform fine, but always check fire restrictions before you leave – total fire bans in summer can cover gas stoves and alcohol burners.

Cold: isobutane canisters lose pressure below ~5°C, causing slower boil times and unreliable performance. Fix with a regulated gas stove, warm up your canister, or switch to a liquid fuel stove for serious alpine trips.

Safety by Season

Heat: key risks are dehydration, heat exhaustion, and bushfire – hike early, rest in shade, check the fire danger rating, and have a clear plan if conditions change.

Cold: key risks are hypothermia and exposure – wet plus cold is dangerous, change out of wet layers immediately, carry a PLB, and always leave a trip plan with someone at home.

LONG WEEKEND TIP: Checking the Bureau of Meteorology forecast before any long weekend camping trip is non-negotiable – not just the daytime high, but overnight lows, wind speed, and any watches or warnings in the area. Weather apps are handy, but bom.gov.au has the most detailed and reliable forecasts for Australian conditions.

Don’t Let the Long Weekend Pass You By

The biggest barrier to a great long weekend is almost always just getting organised. The right gear, sorted in advance, means you leave work on Friday, throw the kit in the car, and go. Find your style in this guide, fill your list, and get out there.

Browse our full range of camping gear at snowys.com.au or visit us in-store in Adelaide or Brisbane.

Long weekends are for camping.

The post Long Weekends Are For Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Let’s revisit the Leave No Trace principles. Image: Sputnik

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

It seems like a no-brainer, but next time you decide to head out for a spontaneous weekend away, take a few extra steps to ensure you’ve done some planning. This includes researching the place you’re visiting, in case there are special rules or requirements that you need to follow.

Always take everything you could need in an emergency. This includes:

• A PLB
• A lightweight emergency shelter
• A first aid kit, emergency blanket, and
• An extra day’s worth of food.

This way, you won’t have to resort to improvising or making decisions that have the potential to negatively impact the local environment (such as building a makeshift shelter or lighting a campfire in a restricted area).

Sand is considered a suitable surface to pitch your tent on. Photo: Black Wolf

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

Travelling and camping on resistant, long-lasting surfaces is an important one. If you’re camping in an area that has designated campsites or platforms, make sure you use those. When hiking or exploring, always walk along the designated tracks to keep activity to one area.

According to Leave No Trace Australia, soft plants, muddy sites, and fragile soil layers are non-durable surfaces and should be avoided. Instead, rock outcrops, sand, gravel, dry grasses, snow, and tent platforms are considered durable to travel across and camp on.

Only use biodegradable soap and strain and scatter dishwater when you’re done with it. Photo: Sea to Summit

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

Everything you bring with you must be taken out. Don’t burn or bury rubbish, as this will still attract animals and put them at risk – not to mention the fumes a fire will emit, and the greater risk of bushfires that will create. Take all your rubbish and waste out with you in plastic or leak-proof trash bags. Alternatively, use a spare wheel bin bag – this will keep native wildlife out of your rubbish as well as the stink out of your car.

Ensure that you dispose of human waste properly too. If you’re using a portable camp toilet, only rid yourself of waste at a designated waste dump point. Otherwise, pack a trowel with you for bathroom visits. To go to the toilet in the bush responsibly, dig a hole away roughly 20cm deep away from water sources, campsites, and trails – then cover and disguise properly. You shouldn’t bury toilet paper, so take it with you in a Ziploc bag until you can dispose of it properly.

Hot water works really well for washing dishes – but if you must use detergent or soap, only choose the biodegradable kind. After you’ve finished washing your dishes, strain the water to catch food scraps and scatter it at least 50m from water sources.

If you see rubbish when you’re out and about, be a good citizen and take it with you. It’s not nice to clean up after others, but it’s better than leaving it for an animal to find.

Pack it in, pack it out – simple! Photo: Sea to Summit. 

4. Leave What You Find

Despite that last line…

When you’re out exploring or hiking a trail, there are so many incredible things to discover along the way. While it can be tempting to pick up a perfectly shaped pebble, a feather from a rare bird, or a wildflower in bloom – if you remove it from its environment, it robs the next person of the experience of discovering it too. If you’re going to be travelling across an area where you know there is a site of cultural or spiritual significance, it is still possible to absorb it all without touching or interfering in any way.

Another example of leaving what you find is cleaning your boots and tyres thoroughly. This avoids introducing anything new into a fragile environment.

There are so many incredible things to discover – just make sure you leave them be. Photo: Eve Woods. 

5. Minimise Campfire Impacts

Campfires are a predominant aspect of camping. They add warmth, atmosphere, and a means of cooking delicious meals. However, they pose a risk for the habitats of local wildlife, char and damage the landscape, and – of course – can greater the chance of bushfires.

While a camping stove and lantern don’t necessarily provide the same atmosphere of a campfire, they’ll help in leaving as little impact as possible. Only light a fire in a permitted area and, if you do so, use an established fire ring or pit. By doing so, you’re keeping the damage to the areas that are arranged for that purpose.

In regards to fuel for your fire, use eco-friendly timber options such as compacted wood briquettes to prevent depleting and destroying native habitat. For more on campfire etiquette, head here.

Keep the impact from your campfire to a minimum. Photo: Darche

6. Respect Wildlife

If you happen to spot native animals out in the wild, it can be quite special to observe them. That said, keep a respectful distance so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours, or frighten them from their own habitat.

It is essential to keep your food secure and not intentionally feed local animals. Foraging for and eating ‘human’ food can be damaging to both the health and behaviour of native species. This circles back to an earlier-mentioned principle: ensuring you leave everything as you find it. Take all rubbish and food with you to both limit its risk to animals and to avoid an unsightly mess!

If you’re keen to observe the animals, bring a pair of binoculars to watch from a distance without disturbing their normal way of life.

While it is exciting to spot an animal in the wild, keep a respectful distance. Photo: Coleman

7. Be Considerate of Your Hosts and Other Visitors

Whilst we all want to feel a sense of freedom and escape when we head outdoors, we’ll always be sharing our space with other people and animals on our travels. With this in mind, here are some things to think about to remain considerate.

• If you bring your pets along, keep their behaviour under control so they don’t disturb others. This includes averting them from local wildlife, and preventing them from foraging and digging.
• Consider how bright lighting at night may affect someone else’s experience – not to mention how it disturbs the nocturnal animals pre-existing in the area.
• Generators can make a lot of noise, so try not to run them at night or in the early hours of the morning. The same goes for loud music; this will keep others from sleeping or enjoying their night.

Keep a respectful distance from wildlife so as to not disturb their instinctive and natural behaviours (shouldn’t be hard to do when it comes to snakes!). Image: Sputnik

So, there you have it!

The 7 Leave No Trace principles. We all want to continue camping, hiking, and exploring what this great country has to offer for many years to come. A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in as pristine condition as possible.

Happy adventuring, everyone!

A little more mindfulness means that we can keep the natural environment in pristine condition. Image: Sputnik

What else do you do to ensure that you’re minimising your impact on your outdoor adventures? Let us know in the comments. 

The post The 7 Leave No Trace Principles appeared first on Snowys Blog.

To understand the 12V battery and solar setups for the outdoors, it’s ideal to first know the difference between volts, watts, and amps. These are the three electrical ratings you’ll find stamped on the compliance stickers of electrical appliances.

You’ll need to understand the basics of these three ratings, so here’s a quick analogy:

A battery (volts) forces an electrical flow (amps) through a cable, which produces power (watts) to run a device.

For the purpose of this article, all you really need to know is:

Volts (V)

12V is the amount of force your car battery and alternator delivers

Amps (A)

Think of this as the volume of electricity the battery is pushing through a cable.

Watts (W)

A measure of power that is easily converted to Amps with the following formula:

Watts ÷ Volts = Amps

Amp-hours (Ah)

Calculated by multiplying Amps by hours to represent consumption over time. Deep cycle batteries have a rating that specifies how many Amp-hours (Ah) they contain.

The Basics of 12V Battery and Solar Setups in the Outdoors:

• If you want to run appliances, devices, and lighting in your campsite – you’ll need a deep cycle battery. It’s not recommended to use your vehicle’s starter battery.
• To keep your drinks cold, you’ll need to connect your fridge to a battery – which will also need to be connected to a charging system i.e. a solar panel or a running vehicle. You can’t skip the battery part, it needs to be in the system.
• There is some basic arithmetic you can use to work out how much battery power you need to power your devices, and how much solar or vehicle power you need to keep that battery topped up.

With a bit of knowledge, you’ll be powering your campsite in no time! Image: Hard Korr

Common Questions About a 12V and Solar Setup:

• ‘What size battery do I need to run your fridge – and how long will it run for?’
• ‘How do I connect my solar panel to my fridge?’
• ‘How many solar panels do you need for a caravan?’
• ‘Can I run my fridge from my car’s starter battery?’

All valid questions that we receive almost every day from customers starting out with 12V and solar power for camping. The information below answers all these questions, so by the end you’ll be armed with enough knowledge to label yourself a 12V ninja!

But first…

Solar panels are a key part of your setup. Image: Hard Korr

What’s Needed for a 12V Solar-Charged Setup?

There are three components to a basic 12-volt solar-charged setup:

1. The devices you want to run

2. A battery to power the devices you want to run (generally a deep cycle battery)

3. Something to charge the battery that is powering the devices you want to run

You can’t skip Step 2; you need a battery in your system! You’ll also need a solar controller between the solar panel and battery, to regulate the charge going into the battery. These are generally integrated into or form part of the wiring that came with your solar panel.

The factory-installed cigarette outlet isn’t heavy-duty enough for high currents. Image: Companion 

Can I Run These From a Factory Cigarette Outlet in my Car?

Good question!

Factory-installed cigarette outlets are often made with lightweight housings and cables that won’t handle high currents, or even medium currents, for long periods without becoming hot.

These outlets are often rated to handle a maximum of 120W or 10 amps (using our formula from earlier: 120W ÷ 12V = 10 Amps) at any given time, and are also generally only powered when your vehicle is on. This has them useless at the campsite.

They are also wired to your vehicle’s starter battery, which leads us to our next common question…

For How Long Will my Fridge Run From my Vehicle’s Starter Battery?

Not nearly as long as a deep cycle auxiliary battery or power pack will!

The starter or cranking battery on your car is designed to give a high discharge of power, known as ‘cold-cranking amps’, to start your vehicle – followed by a period of recharging from the vehicle’s alternator. A deep cycle battery, however, is much happier with a prolonged and slow discharge.

Whilst you could power your fridge for short periods from a cranking battery, we recommend only doing so whilst your vehicle is running – otherwise, you’ll potentially be calling for road service.

A battery box is an option that you have. Image: Hard Korr

Is the Best Solution to Install an Auxiliary Battery or Use a Portable Power Pack?

In this article, I will refer primarily to a portable power pack, but the basics are the same for both of the following setups.

A portable power pack is generally not dependent on a vehicle, so you can locate your solar panel and power requirements wherever you need it i.e. in a tent or camp kitchen. This is versatile and ideal if you don’t have space for a second battery under the bonnet.

Another option is to install a second or ‘auxiliary’ deep cycle battery into your vehicle, where you use your vehicle’s alternator to charge the battery. This hard-wired setup is ideal for those on the move every day. It can also be beneficial for those wanting to stay in one location for a period of time as it facilitates batteries with larger power storage – but you’ll probably need to include solar charging in your setup.

Setting up an auxiliary battery in your vehicle requires a little knowledge if you are doing so by yourself. Alternatively, an auto electrician can install one professionally for you.

If you don’t have space for a second battery, a portable power pack might work for you. Image: Goal Zero

How do I Work Out my 12v Power Requirements?

Grab yourself a notepad and pen, and write down all the Amp ratings for each of the appliances you want to run in your campsite – converting watts to Amps with our formula from earlier.

Let’s assume (I’m making up figures here) you want to run a 12V fridge rated at 2.7A max, and two camping lights each rated at 0.6A.

With all of these appliances running non-stop, they will be consuming 3.9 Amps. (2.7A+0.6A+0.6A = 3.9 Amps).

Consider though, that your lights will only be consuming power for a few hours in the evening and your fridge will only consume power whilst its compressor is running, which will be cutting in and out to maintain temperature.

So – hourly power consumption will, for the most part, be far less than the maximum. It will also vary over 24 hours, depending on the time of day, ambient temperature, and how often you open your fridge.

Let’s look at three different times of the day. Just as a disclaimer, I’ve made up the figures below for the sake of simple calculations:

Daytime – Fridge Only

Daytime running fridge only: 7am-5pm = 10 hours

Estimate that fridge cycles: 15 mins on/15 mins off = 30 mins/hour = 2.7/2 = 1.35 Amps

Total consumption over 10 hours = 13.5 Amp-hours

In the day, with just your fridge running. 

Evening – Fridge and Lights

Evening running fridge and lights: 5pm-9pm = 4 hours,

Estimate that fridge cycles: 10 mins on/20 mins off = 20 mins/hour = 2.7/3 = 0.9 Amps

Camping lights: 0.6A each = 0.6A x 2 = 1.2 Amps

Total consumption of 2.1 Amps over 4 hours = 8.4 Amp-hours

In the evening, with both fridge and lights in use.

Nighttime – Fridge Only

Nighttime running fridge only: 9pm-7am = 10 hours

Estimate that fridge cycles: 5 minutes on/25 minutes off = 10 minutes per hour + 2.7/6 = 0.45 Amps

Total consumption over 10 hours = 4.5 Amp-hours

At night, with just your fridge running.

If we now add the daytime, evening, and nighttime consumptions together, we get our total approximate consumption for the full day.

Total: 13.5 Amp-hours + 8.4 Amp-hours + 4.5 Amp-hours = 26.4 Amp-hours

What Size 12V Battery Do I Need?

The standard Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) or Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries, which are the most common and affordable portable deep cycle batteries, are rated to 44 Amp Hours (44 Ah). An in-vehicle or hard-wired setup is often around 100 Ah.

But, these batteries can only be discharged to 50% of their rated capacity, which gives you 22 Ah of usable power if we use a 44 Ah battery as an example.

Given that, in our example above, our appliances are consuming 26.4 Ah over 24 hours – giving us less than a day of power from a 44 Ah battery, and a little under 2 days out from a 100 Ah battery. So, we need some way to charge the battery after these timeframes.

A lithium battery, however, will give you more usable power and a longer lifespan at approximately half the weight, albeit at a higher price tag. There are different lithium battery chemistries with LiFePo4 being the most common for 12V deep cycle applications. These batteries offer 75-80% of their rated capacity for use meaning a 100 Ah lithium battery would give us 3 days of power in our example above.

Note that these figures are never exact. There are inefficiencies that need to be allowed for, so use these calculations as approximations.

Solar panels will keep your battery charged. Image: Hard Korr

How Can I Keep my Battery Charged Up?

If your battery is hard-wired to your vehicle’s charging system, driving your vehicle every day will keep your battery topped up. Plus, if you’ve also got solar panels hooked into your vehicle setup, you’re as good as ‘set and forget’.

If you’re using a portable power pack, you’ll need to plug it into your vehicle’s charging system whilst driving – or, if you are staying at camp for the day, you can use a solar panel.

Solar panels are generally rated in Watts; the higher the wattage, the quicker they charge your battery. They are not perfectly efficient at converting the sun’s rays into power, so we need to factor in a rough figure of a 20% inefficiency rate.

Each battery type has a different charge profile and you need to match your solar controller or DC charger to the battery type. You can’t, for example, use your cars alternator to directly charge a lithium battery, you will need to use a lithium compatible DC-DC charger in your system, which will add cost but will also improve the charge of your battery. Thankfully, many solar and DC chargers are now being produced to charge all battery types but it is worth double checking.

Use the formula to figure out how to keep your battery charged.

Let’s Do the Maths

Referring to the diagram above, let’s assume you have a 120W solar panel. If we go back to our formula again and divide watts by volts, this gives us 10 Amps (120W ÷ 12V = 10A). If we factor in our inefficiency rate of 20%, we are down to 8 Amps that your solar panel is delivering to the battery (10Amps – 20% = 8Amps).

But remember, our fridge is still consuming 1.35Amps from the battery at the same time. The rate at which the battery is actually being charged in this scenario is the difference between input amps and output amps, which in this case is about 6.65Amps (8A – 1.35A = 6.65 Amps).

A solar panel is only going to deliver charge during the sunlit hours, and not in the shade – so let’s assume that we chase the sun all day by moving the solar panel around, and acquire 8 hours of sunlight.

So, at 6.65 Amps for 8 hours, a 120W solar panel can potentially deliver 53.2Ah of chargeback into our battery (6.65Amps x 8hours = 53.2Ah). This is far more than the 22 Ah we need to charge a depleted battery.

If we work backwards, we can work out roughly how many actual hours of sunlight we need to charge a 50% depleted battery whilst our fridge is still running, by dividing the charge needed by the consumption.

22 Ah ÷ 6.65A = 3.3 hours approximately, to reach full charge whilst your fridge is running.

Make Allowances for Overcast Days

The angle of the sun and the atmosphere impact the amount of sunlight reaching a solar panel, and reduce the output. In reality, if your solar panel is in full sun for 8 hours, you are likely only acquiring 4-6 hours of it’s potential capacity per day. Furthermore, the output of the solar panel may be reduced to almost nothing on cloudy days, so it’s worth ensuring you have a few Amp-hours in reserve.

Long story short, in the above situation, if the weather is clear and sunny and you are chasing the sun with your solar panel each day, you’d theoretically be set to stay in the one spot for as long as you want. If you are relying on your vehicle, charge times will be much less, given a vehicle’s alternator generally delivers a much higher current. You can usually find details on your alternators Amp output in your vehicle manual.

Once your 12V system is set up, it will serve you well. Image: Hard Korr

One Last Thing to Note…

Solar and your vehicle’s alternator don’t always deliver a full charge in the same way a good 240V battery charger can. So, it’s worth hooking them up to one of these and giving them a full charge once every 6-12 months.

That may seem like a whole lot of information, but in reality it’s just the basics. There’s a lot more to learn when it comes to setting up a 12V system in your vehicle.

For now though, at least you can ensure your drinks stay cold!

Ben and Lauren discuss powering up at the campsite early on in Season 1 of the Snowys Camping Show:

How long has it taken you to come up with your ideal 12V power setup?

The post Understanding 12V Battery & Solar Setups for Camping and 4WDing appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this article, we thought we would share the regular, occasional, and sporadic maintenance items and checks that we do to both protect our investment and keep us all safe.

We’ve taken our caravan to some pretty remote but amazing places already. Keeping it all in shape and operating correctly is very important for some happy campers.

A caravan moves around. Sometimes quite often, and sometimes over some pretty bumpy and corrugated roads (especially where we have been taking it)! As a result, things come loose; maybe they get knocked, or simply wear out. Knowing what to look for and what to service or maintain becomes very important.

Bringing the caravan home was an exciting day. It’s a big investment for anyone and you need to protect it.

We’ve broken up this article into three sections – regular, occasional, and sporadic maintenance. Why so vague? Well, it really depends on what you do with your caravan, where you take it, how often you use it, and how long you live in it.

For us – full-time on the road, exploring our country in some very remote and off-track places – there’s always lots to keep an eye on.

There’s plenty of challenging roads out there, not just for your car. The Outback Way, or Australia’s Longest Short Cut, kept us on our toes with plenty of caravan and car remains all around!

Regular Checks:

1. Connections

These are your umbilical cord connections to the caravan, and it’s important to know they are in good condition and working each time you set off from home or camp. Test your lights, test your brakes, test the electronic stability control, video, and any other technology or connections you may have in place. It’s boring – but it’s important!

Checking tyre conditions and pressures regularly is a must.

2. Air Pressures, Wheel Nuts, and Tyre Condition

The pressures of your tyres and their overall condition is very important with regards to safety. Tyres are made from rubber, designed to heat up and cool down to preserve them. If they have been sitting for some time, you really should be checking out the air pressure and overall condition. It’s also good to do this once a week or so if on the road, or more if you change pressures often or move through various weather extremes.

Also, check your wheel nuts! Lots of people lose their wheels to nuts coming off, so check they are tight and secure! We saw it twice in one trip, with wheel nuts the likely cause.

We have 3 x 100AH Batteries and a 3000W Pure Sine Inverter powering most of our caravan. We need to ensure everything is working and in good health.

3. Energy Sources

Your caravan will have a combination of gas, solar, and batteries. You need to make sure that the gas connections to your gas bottles are intact and without leaks. Use a spray bottle with water and detergent as you would on the BBQ at home to check. For more details on how to check gas appliances for leaks, head here. Make sure your solar panels are clean and the wire connections in place.

For your batteries, check out their health with a multimeter to ensure charging is working and, if in doubt, take it into a professional to test the overall health of your batteries. Make sure you give them a good, regular charge to maintain them too!

Although off-grid is our preference, plugging into power every now and then keeps our batteries in good condition.

Occassional Checks:

1. Plumbing

Your caravan will likely have one or more water tanks: a water pump to send the water around the caravan, and likely a hot water service. It will have a network of pipes between water outlets and the pump, and then some more to your grey water waste point. Check for any leaks, clean the pump pre-filter of any debris, and wash out your water tanks if you have filled up with any hard or poor water, to stop the bad build up in the tanks. Kids are great to send underneath to get to those hard to reach spots!

Children are good at getting in and under the caravan to identify leaks, cracks or other early problems!

2. The Undercarriage of the Caravan

In addition to the plumbing, you could also check your wheel bearings to ensure they are packed and intact, check your suspension, as well as any other cables or connections that are situated under the van. Identifying problems early helps reduce bigger issues and costs in the future.

3. Appliances and the Smoke Detector

Remember to defrost the fridge and check it is working to the correct temperatures. Check your smoke detector weekly, change the battery annually, and ensure any other appliances in the van are secure and functioning correctly.

All of our appliances get a good workout. We also ensure we test everything and inspect the cables for damage. We lost the microwave out of this spot on the Nullabor!

4. Doors, Latches, Handles, Locks, and Stabilisers

When a caravan moves, a lot of it shakes, bends, or has pressure applied. Dirt and dust get in, and sometimes even rocks too. Check all of your doors, latches, handles, any locks, and your stabilisers. Make sure function is correct and free, and clean and lubricate as required.

Sporadic Checks:

1. Hot Water Anode and Water Filter

Your hot water system may have an anode in it – many do. It’s a sacrificial piece of metal that’s designed to corrode faster than your hot water service itself. Every 12 months this should be changed to help protect an expensive piece of equipment! The water filters play an important role too. We have a separate water filter outside of the van when we fill up or connect to water, as well as one on the kitchen sink for filtering drinking water. These filters fill up fast, especially when you travel remotely or to places with harder water (like in Western Australia).

Check out the difference in the water filters! What a difference 6 months in WA makes. Very hard water over there, and very distinct colour differences.

2. Weights

Weights might be an odd one, but the payload of your caravan is there for a reason. There are also some rules and heavy fines in place for a serious safety subject. Things add up. One thing picked up here, another added – all can translate to real weights. Before we set off, we weigh our van and regularly check in to make sure we are within our legal limits and specifications.

We regularly get our car and caravan checked to ensure that our weights aren’t over. A lot of accidents and damage are caused by being overweight or off-balanced in terms of loads.

3. Rust, Mould, Ventilation, and Seals

Give your caravan a good, deep clean and wash. Look out for any rust or mould that might be showing early signs, and either treat or remove it. Likewise, check your van’s ventilation to ensure any filters or vents are clear, and that the seals on windows, doors, and other openings are clean.

You’ll be amazed at how and where dust gets into every nook and cranny. Just when you think you might have cleaned it all out, more appears!

By getting on top of your maintenance items and methods with a regular plan, you can greatly increase the life of a caravan – as well as its value. It’s like any investment: look after it, and it will look after you. There are some amazing places to see out there, and what we have quickly learned is that caravans can do anything and go anywhere!

Nothing but us and the outback! Look after your caravan and it will look after you.

Did we miss a key maintenance item you like to keep on top of? Please share it in the comments below!

The post Keep the Wheels Rolling – Caravan Care & Maintenance appeared first on Snowys Blog.

One small but important consideration is the gear we need, and how we can ensure it performs during our time away. The frustrating catch is that we spend large amounts of hard-earned money on products that, in the pursuit of our adventures, can at some point break or become damaged. However, this is when the creative fun begins!

Having a toolkit is a pretty handy addition to any setup, be that in your hiking pack, the storage shed, or your car boot.

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies 

Why is a Toolkit Important?

These toolkits are invaluable for the next time you’re faced with a camping obstacle that needs to be overcome – whether it be trying to peg into solid ground, getting a fire going in wet and windy conditions, or fixing something that has snapped, ripped, leaked, or punctured. Toolkits can save you lots of money, as it changes your approach; you can find a creative solution with what’s in your toolbox, which can save you from reaching for your credit card.

Whether you’re kilometres from home, at your favourite campsite, or just back after a memorable trip, here is a range of items you should consider keeping in your toolkit. This will ensure you can get back to doing what you love with the gear you love, for a lot less than if you were to replace it.

Toolbox or Bag?

The first item you need to get sorted is the box or bag you’re going to keep your tools in. Whilst it’s easy to get carried away here, aim small because you don’t want this to consume valuable space which can be taken up by other gear.

Solid and durable tool boxes work great for vehicle camping, whereas soft bags like the Blacksmith Camping Supplies tool bag and or Sea to Summit pouch are fantastic for lighter-weight adventures.

A well thought out toolkit can save you plenty of cash and will help make sure your trip runs smoothly. Image: Ben Trewen

Consumables

Once you’ve decided on the size of your tool box or bag, you can then start working on what consumables you might want.

Duct Tape

Capable of many uses, duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be repaired or rejoined. Covering holes and repairing tears are just some of its many purposes.

Cable Ties

Like duct tape, cable ties can be used to re-attach or hold things together. Organising cables, ropes or hoses, closing opened food packets, locking tubs or bags, and mending broken hooks and loops on a tent – to name only a few uses.

Lubricant

It might be a screw that has gone tight, a pin that won’t release, or a pole that can’t extend. Having a lubricant spray like WD-40 available will ensure you can get out of sticky situations easily.

Glue/Sealer

Your shoe sole might be coming apart, your tent seam might be leaking, or the sleeping pad valve may be seeping air. Fixing tasks like these and many others requires a strong, adhesive, and fast drying glue to get the job done.

Having a solid set of consumables in your kit will make small repairs easy. Image: Ben Trewen

Repair Tape

A form of glorified duct tape, repair tape is transparent, very adhesive, and perfect for mending precious items of gear. It might be a tear in your tent fly, a rip in your rain jacket, or a slit in your hiking pack. Repair tape is designed to bring your gear back to life whilst still looking somewhat new or at least undamaged.

Sewing Kit

If repair tape can’t fix the rip in your rain jacket, maybe sewing it up can. Whether the seam in your pants gives way, the buttons on your waistband pops or the visor on your hat un-ravels, having a sewing repair kit can take care of all these basic sewing jobs. It can also prevent issues from becoming worse.

Paracord

Easy to source, super strong to use, and small enough to carry, paracord is fantastic for all kinds of use. It can be used to reinforce your tent, secure your tarp, hang something from a tree, create a clothesline, tow something to your camp, or secure something so it doesn’t budge. The options with this versatile rope are endless.

Hexamine Tablets

Hexamine tablets burn smokeless-ly, don’t liquify, and leave no trace of burning. They have a high-energy density, making them fantastic as either an emergency stove or as a supercharged fire-lighter.

Duct tape is a go-to option for when things need to be re-joined. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies

Tools

The next lot of items to consider are your tools. It’s important to remember that the goal is to include multi-purpose gear which can be used across a range of applications. Here’s what makes a good list:

Swiss Army Knife or Multi-Tool

When it comes to multi-purposeful tools, having a multi-tool on hand like the Leatherman Surge makes perfect sense. With 21 tools and a sturdy feel in the hand, it’s a good choice when tackling any adventure. There aren’t many unique tasks that this tool can’t play a solving role in.

The Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

It’s like opening Christmas presents, as you explore all the different functions this little beauty can perform. Twenty-five altogether, in a compact 9cm body that weighs in at just 155gm. The size and weight are the winning factors for undertaking activities such as bushwalking, where it’s usually slipped into the pocket of a pair of shorts or the outside pocket of a pack. Use a lanyard to carry it in pockets, and attach that to a belt too. That way, you can’t lose the knife but can quickly retrieve it for use. The lanyard can also be easily attached to deck-lines on a kayak, for easy access.

The Leatherman Multi-Tool

A multi-tool doesn’t have as many blades or functions as a Swiss Army Knife, but nevertheless is a very functional and effective tool. Having it available on a belt all the time makes it easy to quickly and efficiently repair minor fencing issues, cut wire tangled in equipment, and unscrew things – all without ready-access to a comprehensive toolbox. There is the facility to attach a lanyard to this also – but at 13cm, it is longer than the Handyman, and heavier at 266gm too.

What is a Multi-Tool?

A multi-tool is a single piece of camping and hiking equipment that has numerous functions. It’s cleverly built around a pair of compact stainless steel pliers, with other pullout tools neatly incorporated into the design:

• The pliers are either regular pliers or needle-nose pliers that are handy for tightening or loosening bolts, pulling out small nails, and bending wires. The better quality multi-tool pliers also have built-in wire cutting and wire stripping functions.
• Almost every multitool has at least one sharp knife for cutting, with a safe, foldaway blade. A second serrated knife, wood saw, or metal saw are also available on selected brands.
• For the handy bushman in you, another common multi-tool component is the screwdriver. Usually you’ll have both flat and Phillips head options – an important tool for those ‘fix it’ sessions on the road.
• Some multi-tools also contain a file suitable for filing down timber or metal. Plus if you ever need to measure a short distance there’s often a ruler incorporated into the extended length of your multi-tool.
• And where would you be without scissors to cut thin twine, fishing line, fingernails, material, paper, and plastic? Neatly cutting open packets of food rather than ripping them with your teeth – it’s so much easier when you’ve got your handy multi-tool.
• Importantly, camp cooking and camp entertainment always benefit from your multi-tool’s can and bottle openers, respectively.
• Some multi-tools even include an awl (or hole punch) for putting holes in tough materials like leather or thick canvas, which is useful – we just don’t know when!

How to Choose Your Multitool

Choosing the right multi-tool is a balance between:

1. Finding a tool with the functions you need
2. How compact and lightweight the tool needs to be
3. Durability for years of use
4. How safe they are to use as part of a multi-tool, and of course,
5. How much you’re willing to spend

Multi-tools can be an expensive purchase for young campers and, unfortunately, they’re also easy to lose. Therefore you need to weigh up the return-on-investment for your multi-tool.

Before you rush out and buy a multi-tool, write down a list of what you want your multi-tool to do. Sometimes the higher number of functions is not as important as making sure you’ve got the right tool for your intended activities.

On the flipside, you may want a multi-tool that does everything so that you’re prepared for those just-in-case moments. Find out exactly what you need and want before you purchase your new multi-tool.

What to Look For in a Multi-Tool

• Safety First

If you’re going to be applying pressure when you use the individual tools, in particular the blade, look to buy a multi-tool with a tool and/or blade-only locking mechanism. This will lock the blade safely in place so it won’t close without you releasing it.

• Weight and Function

Second, consider the weight of the tool and how you’ll attach it to you or your gear. Where are you going to keep your multi-tool so it’s handy to grab when you’re on the road, camping or hiking?

If it’s a small multi-tool, a simple belt clip or lanyard ring will work to attach it to you or your backpack.

However if your multi-tool is larger and heavier, then it should be sold with a protective pouch made of durable material, such as leather or nylon, to attach to your belt.

If you’re going to keep your multi-tool in the glove box and don’t require a lightweight product, you may select a heavier multi-tool with more functions and greater strength.

The weight and ‘hand feel’ of your multi-tool is also important. Sometimes the trade-off for manufacturers is decreasing the comfort of the handle. The more tools added to the design, the more likely the handle to grasp the tool is more cumbersome.

• Steel Strength

Third, for strength and rust-resistance, the type of stainless steel used is important. A higher price tag for a multitool, in many cases, relates to the better quality stainless steel it’s made out of. High quality stainless steel is extremely strong and resistant to corrosion (rust), however some lower quality stainless steels can occasionally succumb to the effects of salt and moisture, as well as weaken in structure.

• Functions

Lastly, look for components of a multi-tool that do more than one thing. For example, the bottle opener arm may also be a flat head screwdriver or the can opener may also be a twine cutter. This versatility lends itself to a more compact multi-tool design.

It’s like opening Christmas presents! Image: Victorinox

Swiss Army Knife Vs Multi-Tools: Pros and Cons

Victorinox Swiss Army Knife

Pros

• Small and lightweight
• Versatile
• Perfect for bushwalking and activities where weight is a criteria

Cons

• Lacks robust pliers

Leatherman Multi-Tool

Pros

• Versatile
• Perfect for activities where a more robust tool is needed, particularly the pliers

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Harder to pull out the tools you need

Torch

While we’re likely to have a headlamp or lantern amongst our gear, a multi-purpose lighting back-up is never a bad thing.

Don’t waste valuable space and weight by selecting multi-purpose tools. Image: Ben Trewen

Mallet

When it comes to camping and hiking, the value of mallets surely speaks for themselves. While the pressure of your foot or the weight of a rock can often do the job, having a heavy-duty mallet on hand to put all your pegs into the ground is much easier.

The beauty of a mallet is that the peg puller at the end of the handle offers just as much help when its time to pack down and pull all the pegs out of the ground. If you’re more of the lightweight hiker type, you could consider a lightweight mallet.

Tri-Fold Shovel

Whether you’re adjusting the wood on the fire, digging up coals for your camp oven or clearing space for the bowels to open up, having a shovel is incredibly handy. Many choose to opt for adding a long-handled option to their gear kit, however you could get away with a simple tri-fold shovel in my toolbox. It’s small and compact but still gets the job done.

Hatchet

Not critical, but very useful, especially during fire season. Hatchets are great for chipping away at kindling, clearing vegetation at campsites and cutting down wood to fit. They’re also multi-purpose as you can use the other end of the head as a hammer for putting pegs into the ground.

Butane Gun

Sure, you can just use matches, but having a butane gun on hand will help to light a fire in testing conditions. Whether you’re lacking tinder or struggling with wet or windy conditions, having a steady flame can be beneficial. Butane refills are very cheap and the convenience is absolutely worth it.

Water Tank Spanner

Again, not critical but very useful – especially if you plan to carry water in reusable tanks. Having a tool to ensure your lids and bungs are screwed on tight and that your taps can be removed for transit may not seem that valuable… until your water tanks start leaking.

Spare Parts

Lastly, are the spare parts. While this list can quickly become endless, there are some common parts that are regularly sought after. Adopt this for whatever gear you carry, as you need. Don’t be afraid to add items after you’ve learnt from your mistakes… it can take breaking four buckles on a hiking pack before you start carrying a spare!

Check that you’ve added spare parts to your kit in case you get caught out mid-adventure. Image: Ben Trewen

Tent Pole Splint

The unfortunate reality is that no tentpole is indestructible and once it becomes damaged, it’s a pain to manage. Having a sleeve handy makes repairing a crack or break easy. Sleeves are usually included as a spare with your tent. Just slip it over the damage, then reinforce with your duct tape or cable ties as needed. It’s a much sturdier option than a taped pole that doesn’t have adequate support.

Spare Bungs

Be it for your esky or your water tank, having leaking fluid going everywhere is the worst! Spend a couple of dollars to ensure you’re covered just in case you lose or break your bung.

Stove Service Kit: O-Rings, Knobs, Adapters

Gas Stoves can often be fidgety pieces of gear, complete with many different parts that often need maintaining. With hiking stoves, it’s relatively easy as many come with pre-assembled repair kits.

Camping stoves are a bit trickier. A great way to try and stay on top of things is to carry correct-sized rubber O-rings for your seals, stove knobs, and gas hose adapters for use between 3/8 to POL to BOM fittings.

It never hurts to also read the manufacturer instructions, in case they make any recommendations on parts as well.

Spare Pegs

If you’ve been camping for a while, you’ll know that broken, misplaced, or un-returned tent pegs are a frequent occurrence. Having a few extras on hand can never hurt. It’s pretty easy to get your hands on heavy-duty steel pegs or lightweight alloy pegs.

Repair Buckle

While many wouldn’t even think of buckles breaking, the inconvenience when they do can be pretty frustrating. Whether it be in your tent, backpack, or awning – buckles play a part in the setting up of many pieces of gear.

All it takes is for that misplaced footstep along with some pressure – and the next thing you know, the buckle is crushed!

Do you have anything else you take along in your toolkit when you head out on an adventure? Let us know in the comments. 

The post How to Build a Camping Toolkit appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We see you. We hear you.

As heard in Episodes 65 and 66 of the Snowys Camping Show, your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions in the second and final part of our Campsite Q&A’s blog series.

Your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions. Image: Coleman

Gear and Maintenance

Essentials for Beach Camping, and Tips for Keeping the Sand out of the Swag / Tent?

To first address sand, Ben and Lauren recommend a mesh ground sheet which, while expensive, is worth the investment. Double-layered, the mesh allows for any sand on top to fall through without resurfacing, ensuring a sand-free environment. These ground sheets were initially invented as portable helipads, designed to be positioned on loose desert surfaces to prevent sand from blowing and flicking upwards as the helicopter lands. OZtrail manufacture a less expensive model, which still adequately serves the same purpose.

Lauren also recommends EVA foam floor mats at the doorway, and a dustpan and brush to sweep away sand from legs and feet. A Muk Mat – a large, well-finished slab of Astro Turf – works wonders in sandy, beachy environments too. Lauren also suggests washing away the grit and debris in a tub of water, large enough for someone to stand in. Ultimately, allocating a ‘zone’ nearby your setup to clean away sand before entering the living area is the suggested approach. Sand in a tent and living space is often only a problem if we allow for it to build up – so control it from the beginning! 

Broadly speaking, beach camping also requires some sort of wind management. That said, setting up a wind break in sandy environments can encourage sand to whip upwards in a whirlwind. To control this, Ben and Lauren recommend choosing tents with fine mesh, and sealing windows and openings during the day to prevent sand from making its way into bedding.

Lastly, adequate sand pegs and guy ropes are paramount when beach camping, as well as trace springs for added stability in windier conditions.

Securing Food from Pests?

…Try literally anything.

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren detail how to manage critters and pests at the campsite.

Ultimately, they recommend Tupperware that seals tight. Ben is content with leaving unopened food packets in a tub with the lid sitting on top. On the other hand, opened packets should be kept in an airtight container to prevent ants from making their way in.  

In Ep53 – Kangaroo Island, Lauren describes the relentless possum raids as a result of leaving her doors open at night. Generally though, she manages well by keeping her food in storage draws under the bed and recommends solid plastic tubs. Even for a grain of rice, mice will chew through soft silicon and thin plastics, so be aware of the quality of your storage options too. Again, Ben can advocate for this in Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap, where he resorts to creating a trash contraption mouse trap to catch a critter than chewed its way into his 4WD!

For the unique nomads who hoped for more than just ‘use good storage containers’ – ever tried suspending your food from a tree using squat straps? Learn more about this in Ep57 and Ep96 on Weird and Wonderful Camping Gear!

Can you repair a sleeping mat if it leaks at the seams or valves – and if so, how?

Ben and Lauren have recorded a video that lives on the Snowys YouTube channel, elaborating on material relevant to this question – though not in detail.

Usually, only a leak via a seam or valve is guaranteed under warranty. This is because inconsistencies or fissures at these points are more than likely attributed to manufacturing faults. Ben and Lauren recommend getting in touch with the retailer of your defective sleeping mat to receive a warranty assessment.

While not the prettiest fix, Ben suggests Stormsure adhesive or seam grip glue to mend your mat DIY-style. Specifically, heavily smother the hole before spreading the glue at length along each side to create a seal. For an even stronger hold, apply the glue to a nylon ripstop-type material (from a place like Spotlight), as a foundation. This works particularly well with longer tears; Ben recommends incorporating fabric or gauze in and amongst the glue by placing a large strip over the top of the gash. When stretched, the fabric separates – but the seam grip covers it.

Personal camping essentials, upgrades, original gear, current gear, and reasons behind any alterations?

Before we unpack this question – yes, Ben. We get it. You love your coffee kit bag.

As much as this is true, Ben points out that he considers ‘personal camping essentials’ the items that mostly sit beneath the ‘hygiene’ and ‘medication’ umbrella. Lauren rarely washes her hair on a camping trip, instead relying on Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wash as both soap and body wash. Other essentials include her quality base layers and socks, sheep skins to drape over her camp chairs for warmth, Crocs (which she insists are the most bomb-proof, ideal footwear to slip on and off around the campsite), a head torch, and a bird book with binoculars to watch and learn of the pretty birdlife that often surrounds her on her travels.

On the other hand, Ben reveals the gear he’s replaced over the years. He now avoids rounder table lanterns and instead opts for 12V LED strips or hanging lights, having decided that they light his table setup more effectively. As well as lighting, Ben has reconsidered how he operates his stove, now opting for multi-fuel over gas. Unlike large, heavy gas bottles, multi-fuel systems are easy to transport and assemble, eliminating the need for hoses and other accessories. While it may take longer, Ben confirms that this is the trade-off he’s willing to sacrifice. His cast iron camp oven – whilst a favourite – is also soon to be replaced by one of spun steel for both weight and portability reasons. Lastly, he’s removed his awning from his 4WD. This was after deciding it was too tedious to set up and take down on trips where he was driving more frequently than he was pulling over. It now sits in his shed at home… and he doesn’t miss it!

Ben now avoids table lanterns and instead opts for 12V lighting. Image: Hard Korr

Lauren hears of new and improved gear through the grapevine from as often as monthly to even weekly. For this reason, her setup reflects constant evolution as opposed to a ‘before and after’ project. An example of this is her transition from a Waeco 45-litre fridge to a myCOOLMAN dual zone 85-litre fridge, after discovering more room in her van to store it. Now in the process of fitting out their camper van, she reflects on why she didn’t consider two drawer fridges to stack on top of one another – an arrangement she’s keen to progress to when the vehicle renovations are done. The drawer fridges she’s interested in are 10 centimetres wider than the current fridge, but are stackable and each capable of running as either a fridge or freezer.
Overall, settling on a sprinter van instead of a 4WD or caravan – as much as Lauren and her partner love it – has its limitations. Lacking features such as 4WD access or adequate clearance can sometimes be more significant issues than not, especially when she plans to go far beyond her backyard and get wild! As a result, Lauren finds herself wondering what she may opt for further down the line, and what differences it will pose regarding setup. Better or worse – at the end of the day, the grass will always seem greener.

Advice on Tent Security (and Storing Spare Keys)?

The simple answer is: don’t keep your keys in your tent.

With his minimalist setup, Ben has spent many camping trips probably appearing as one of the less wealthy campers at the campsite – which likely explains why he’s yet to be robbed! In some ways, locking everything away can suggest that you have something to steal.

An effortless solution is to not store valuables inside the tent, where Ben tends to only leave his bedding. While there’s always a chance, the likelihood that his sleeping bag will be stolen is relatively low, with fewer repercussions if it was over his wallet or phone.

As for Lauren, theft has never been on her radar. In her experience, there’s an unspoken rule in the camping community to not steal from other setups. Ben admits that National Park spaces are relatively theft-free, though some caravan parks in particular are more prone to it. This is often not as malicious as it is purely opportunistic; young, ratbag kids are usually just out for a thrill, looking to snatch up some loose change or something valuable. This is often the case in most areas alike.

Ultimately, the chance of theft at a campground depends on its location. To address any concerns you may have, simply lock your vehicle and avoid leaving loose change or valuables in exposed places. For instance: at night, Ben tends to store his car keys in the small internal tent pocket just above his head.

Gazebos – Necessary Additional Family Shelter, or Storage Space Waster?

The short answer? It depends on who you are, the storage space you have, and the nature of your desired setup.

For a more detailed response, Ben and Lauren cover relevant information extensively in Ep7 – Gear You Don’t Need for Camping and Ep59 – Shelters for Rainy Days.

What is Safer: to Keep Your Lithium Battery (Plugged Into Solar Panels and a Fridge) in a 6 x 4  Trailer, a Tent, or on a Blanket on the Ground?

If the battery is lithium, it’s generally safe either way.

On the other hand, other lead acid batteries (including sealed) emit hydrogen and generally don’t operate well in extreme temperatures, so best kept in a ventilated space. Keeping it by your fridge shouldn’t be a concern in this regard, as the fridge itself also requires adequate aeration due to its compressor.

Albeit, Ben and Lauren aren’t experts on batteries. Initially, they suggest using common sense; keeping a hot battery close beside you within a tent isn’t ideal! Those who are still unsure should note the warnings in the instruction manual of their respective power station (for instance, the Companion Lithium Rover), or talk to the experts (e.g. Battery World).

Items you Thought Would be Useless but Were Useful, and Vice-Versa?

For Ben, he never expected to need a paintbrush on a road trip – but has found it useful in sweeping away dust and debris from his car or tent interior, especially in outback travelling!

On the other hand, the few opportunities he’s found to use his awning don’t warrant transporting it about as often as he once did. For this reason, it now lives packed away in his shed indefinitely. As well as this, he’s allocated his ‘Grandpa Fork’ to the box of untouched tackle. The tool is simply a fork-like piece that attaches to the end of a stick, designed for toasting marshmallows. While Lauren thinks they’re a nifty invention, Ben would rather just use a stick…

For Lauren, her set of four collapsible tubs are the most unexpectedly delightful addition to her camp clobber. She uses them regularly, and plans to soon purchase another set.

As for the presumably great gadgets that have turned out to be sub-par, she keeps a large collection of items alike in her shed which simply haven’t suited her setup as much as she initially thought. At this stage, nothing in particular springs to mind – but keep an eye out on the Snowys Camping Show Facebook group while she sets this question aside to marinate…

Ben finds he doesn’t use his awning enough to warrant transporting it around as often as he does. Image: Darche

Camping, Caravanning, and 4WDing

Funniest Camp Fail?

… On par with Ben’s ‘green ant’ story, as told in Episode 44? Lauren may just match it.

There’s a place she and her family love to go, the track to which is recommended for 4WDs only – especially when wet. That said, Lauren claims her Sprinter van can tackle more than one may think… but in this instance, these were her famous last words.

Lauren and her family were due to meet with another two groups. Given the substantial room in her vehicle compared to others, she was transporting enough gear for six people – plus more to lessen the load for other families. This added significantly more weight to the van… which didn’t bode well on the track after recent rainfall. When they approached the track, it was a slurry of cold, grey mud. By the time they realised it wasn’t a good idea to proceed, it was too late to turn back!

Initially, they were hopeful… before the van began to slip and slide perilously in the sludge. Eventually, they were left steadfast in sticky mud, stranded in the middle of the Riverland. The sun had set; it was 9:30pm. Lauren directed the kids to toddle off into the inky blackness with a torch to find help, while she and her partner began the exhaustive process of attempting to nudge the van, stubbornly wedged in the thick mud.

After some time, their friend arrived, and together they discovered the root of the problem; the vehicle’s diff was lodged firmly into a large lump of clay. To first alleviate some of the weight, Lauren had the kids carrying camp clobber from the van to the campsite, piece by piece like a row of ants. Next, her partner stripped down to only his shorts and primely positioned himself well underneath the van. The track soon became a mucky mess of footprints as Lauren’s family gathered sticks, logs, and debris to dig away at the diff buried deep in the sludge.

Time moved fast – but the van remained resolute. By midnight, Lauren and her crew attempted one last tactic. After removing the wheel, they packed in the space underneath with sticks and bark, inserted the jack, and pushed as hard as they could while one of them took the driver’s seat. Eventually, Lauren and her family were a wholesome blend of filthy, relieved – and with a vehicle in motion!

For a camp fail equally as chaotic involving a snake, a floating tent, and a mass of green ants – check out Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap.

Practicality of Extended Overland Trips in an SUV/Wagon/Car, Versus the More Built-Out 4WDs/RVs/Camper Vans/Caravans?

The key consideration that distinguishes one from the other is preparation. Travelling in a 4WD, RV, or camping vehicle requires less given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup. With an SUV or smaller vehicle, space is more limited.

As much as it bodes well to first do your research before purchasing a more built-out camper van, don’t let your current wagon or car be a roadblock to hitting the road and seeing the sights. While it may not be wise to travel through the Bungle Bungles in a Sedan, there is still so much to see and do in the great outdoors without a 4WD setup.

Do Either of you Own a Camper Trailer or a Caravan? What are Your Hacks?

Ben and Lauren do not – but Snowys’ resident caravanning expert, Kevin, certainly does!

Kevin has frequently featured in episodes of the Snowys Camping Show, such as Caravan Water Tanks 101, Caravan Refrigeration, and Caravanning the Oodnadatta Track. Given how many caravanning hacks there are, Ben and Lauren suggest advising us of any specifics for Kevin to address from his fountain of knowledge.

Travelling in a 4WD requires less preparation given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup! Image: Darche

What are the essential spare items that Kev would take for extended caravan travelling, off-road?

We’ve addressed this in detail in Episode 68 with our caravanning expert, Kev.

While the list extends further, and excludes the various considerations and details depending on the off-road situation – Kev recommends the following as a guide:

• A standard toolkit
• Wheel bearings
• A hub seal
• Irrigation joiners, straights, and elbows etc. for the hoses and connectors beneath the van
• Two spare wheels, as well as plugs for any minor punctures
• Turn buckles and chains to secure broken springs and axels (this becomes complicated, and depends on the situation!)
• A roll of duct tape, insulation tape, and wire
• Replacement fuses to suit those existing in your car or caravan
• So much more!

Food

Favourite Meal to Cook When Camping / Meal Ideas?

Ben and Lauren elaborate on relevant information throughout both Ep2 – Tips for Keeping Camping Food Fresh, Ep13 – Camping on a Budget, and Ep27 – Camp Kitchen Essentials.

In addition to this specific content, Lauren confirms that her favourite camping food – especially in Winter –  is a cooked brekky. For her, nothing beats smoky bacon, eggs, and charred toast by the campfire coals first thing in the morning!

On the other hand, Ben tends to cook modified versions of the meals he eats at home. For example, when cooking a pasta at the campsite that would usually include fresh tomatoes, he’d add tinned instead.

Another winner for Ben is damper. A doughy, buttery, body-bolstering blend of simple and versatile – damper requires only staple ingredients, elevated even more with bits and pieces of sweet or savoury. By the same token, a jaffle iron is one of Ben’s favourite appliances at the campsite. As well as cooking mini dampers, Ben uses his iron by pressing dough into the moulds, filling it with either baked beans, chocolate, or other fillings of choice, and toasting to create little dough pouches for his kids to carry around camp.

In the meantime, she suggests preparing as much food in advance as possible. This includes pre-chopping vegetables, and pre-cooking meals to then vacuum-seal and re-heat in boiling water at the campsite. Storing pre-cooked rice and chopped vegetables such as onion, pumpkin, or carrots in vac-sealed bags also keeps food fresh and maintained.

In Lauren’s experience, meal-prepping for only herself and her partner versus her entire family are two very different processes. So again – watch this space for more content specific to this aspect of adventuring!

What are the recommended meal and preparation ideas for camping, specifically for stove cooking?

For a little while, Lauren has been keen to produce an episode purely centred around campsite meals. In it, she’d aim to cover meal planning, preparation, and cooking for camping.

In a previous episode with Dr. Kate Grarock, ‘Food for Adventure’, Ben and Lauren kept the content hiking-focused. Episodes alike include ‘Food for Hiking‘, as well as content that explores camp kitchen essentials and how to keep food fresh. Considering this, Lauren has identified the absence of an episode solely dedicated to recipes and meal ideas.

Fridges

Use-case tips on Dometic icebox sizes – including packing standard-sized items to assess how they fit, and how to subsequently determine a suitable size?

This has been an angle on iceboxes from which both Ben and Lauren have wanted to approach for a little while. In a previous podcast episode, ‘Fridges Vs Iceboxes’, they discuss the pros and cons of each and consequently which option is more suited to various setups.

For now, our gear gurus confirm that it depends on the purpose for which your icebox is being used; be that solely cooling, or in conjunction with a fridge. Granted, a YouTube video on our channel may be the perfect way to further elaborate on this question and demonstrate visually… so for the last time, watch this space!

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren discuss the pros and cons of both iceboxes and fridges. Image: Dometic

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

Will Snowys ever open a store in Victoria or Sydney?

Unfortunately, this isn’t on the radar. Ben says that Snowys aim to continue to focus on what they do well, as opposed to expanding and subsequently increasing the prices of products. That said – never say never!

Nonetheless, this isn’t a conversation Lauren and Ben are ultimately involved in, instead determined by a higher level of authority.

Do you two each have an Instagram account, so we can see your setups as well?

The short answer is: not really.

Why? Lauren’s answer for Ben is simple: he’s ‘lame’!

Ben’s explanation for his lack of internet sharing is a little more sentimental; when he’s on holiday, he unplugs almost entirely. Instead of watching the number of views rise on his Instagram stories, he watches the view of the sunrise instead. While some reach the end of a demanding day outdoors and choose to take the time to share photos with their family via WhatsApp, Ben watches the sun set instead. On his half-lap across the Northern Territory and Western Australia, Ben became so emersed in his surroundings that his wife would update his family for him!

Nonetheless, Ben and Lauren admit that they reference their own setups a lot throughout their Snowys podcasts and content. Those who listen to the Snowys Camping Show podcast have insight into Ben and Lauren’s identities in a work-based capacity, with little reference to their personal life.

Lauren has a personal Instagram account that she rarely uses, but has considered creating one that is more relevant to her camping life for public observation. Where she’ll continue to ponder the idea, Ben is certain that a personal account will be disappointing for his followers due to the simplicity of his setup!

More questions? Hit us up! Image: Sea to Summit

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 23, 30, 48, 65, 66, and 92 of the Snowys Camping Show to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 2) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

From wet weather tips and coffee at the campsite, to the best bags, mending swags, what they can’t camp without, and how to get around – this blog covers the first of a two-part series on the questions asked of our resident gear gurus – Ben and Lauren.

From wet weather tips to coffee at the campsite – read on for answers to some of our most-asked questions! Image: Sea to Summit

Camping

‘What are your favourite items of camping equipment?’

Ben’s favourite is his Aeropress coffee maker and X-Pot kettle from Sea to Summit, plus his solar panels so he can travel further off the grid. Lauren is very fond of her Cecil & Co Campfire Water Boiler which she uses with her 12V shower for steaming hot bush showers, her trusty Scrubba wash bag for cleaning clothes, and her Hillbilly cookstand for campfire cooking.

‘What do you look for when choosing a campsite? Do you have any local favs?’

Lauren admits that she doesn’t like to share her favourite spots, as there have been some great campsites in the past that have become trashed after gaining popularity. In terms of finding a good spot, she says WikiCamps has been helpful as you can filter both your region and requirements. Lauren now looks for bush camps / campsites with minimal amenities, are nearby a water source, offer space for kids to roam, and allow both dogs and campfires (within fire season). Ben largely feels the same, as he prefers more remote camping where there is plenty of space and solitude.

‘It would be cool to see your setups – Ben’s sounds quite interesting.’

You can hear more about Ben and Lauren’s setups in the Episode 71 and Episode 72 of the Snowys Camping Show:

‘There are many women camping solo these days. I am 59, and I would love to know what products make camping easier and safer for me.’

Instant Up Tents are a good example of easy, user-friendly camping gear. Lauren hasn’t solo-camped much in her time, but some contributors in our Facebook group have shared tips like taking an extra chair and leaving an empty can or beer bottle to give the impression of another camper’s presence. Also, having a way to communicate in terms of safety, be that some sort of messenger device to connect with your loved ones or a UHF radio for calling for assistance. This will provide some peace of mind.

‘Tips for taking toddlers camping?’

Having touched on both camping with kids and camping with teenagers, Lauren and Ben maintain their suggestion to allow children the freedom to explore in safe areas (i.e. away from spaces prone to snakes). Navigate the nooks and crannies with them, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. 

Along with old, worn clothing, Lauren recommends packing your child/ren a waterproof over-suit for winter camping, thrown on with a pair of gumboots for perfectly protected play among the mud puddles. She also comments that camping in caravan parks often presents more problems than setting up out in the open, where cars and other children tearing up the tracks on bikes can create a cramped and crowded space for toddlers. In the bush, parents can instead establish the clear perimeters their children can roam to, and eliminate any worries about washing. On that, Lauren suggests doubling a trug as both a washing basin and a bath.

For sleeping, Ben recommends creating a barrier either side of your child to prevent them from rolling off their mat. Especially in the winter, waking up in the middle of the night on the cold, hard floor can make defying the outdoors the following day difficult – and in some cases, cause sickness. Additionally, Lauren strongly suggests avoiding kids’ sleeping bags. In her experience, they’ve never offered the same level of warmth, longevity, or adequate length as the adult designs. Instead, simply purchase a standard sized bag, and either fold in half or block off at the end to prevent your pocket-sized humans from slipping too far into the sack.

Oh, and of course – be sure to not to skimp on the snacks!

‘What’s the right way to stake a tent?

Some say 45° away from tent, others 45° toward the tent, and some say vertically. Confusion reigns. For me, it’s critical the tent remains secure in wind!’

The top of the peg should be pointing away from the tent – so when you’re hammering it into the ground, it’s angled away from the tent.

‘On my lap around Australia, what is recommended: ute canopy, camper trailer, or caravan?’

For those travelling as a couple without children, Lauren and Ben suggest using a Ute canopy as opposed to attempting to tow a camper trailer or caravan. Nonetheless, in cases where campers feel comfortable leaving them stationary somewhere for long periods of time, caravans and trailers can provide a roomy, humble alternative.

That said, Ben agrees that an easier-to-set-up sanctuary is more economical and beneficial for a dynamic duo. The money saved on a camper trailer can instead be invested in upgrading your vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to accommodate a substantial rooftop tent. Ben suggests a thorough investigation into the style of rooftop tent you purchase, given some are easy to set up while others require the use of pegs and guy ropes.  

‘Do you consider using a caravan “camping”?’

In short, no – but it doesn’t matter what it’s called, doing what you enjoy is what matters. At the end of the day, it’s still a valuable pursuit. According to the Oxford Dictionary, camping is defined as: ‘The activity of spending a holiday living in a tent’. So, there you have it!

‘What are your thoughts about the future of Australian manufacturing within the camping/hiking and touring sector?’

Both Ben and Lauren believe that it’s important to support Australian-made and Australian-owned companies whenever possible. The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted many supply chain issues in every industry, but the market has been that way for quite some time in regards to overseas manufacturing. Keep in mind that just because a product is made offshore doesn’t mean it’s poor quality. Many Aussie family-owned brands choose to manufacture overseas due to the limited options in Australia with technology and machinery, so it’s a complex topic that should be considered from all angles.

Ben and Lauren chat with Laine and Erin Wescombe of Blacksmith Camping Supplies about everything Aussie Manufacturing:

‘Regarding First Aid, what knowledge is essential for campers and what items do you never leave without in your first aid kit?’

It’s good to have as much knowledge as you can if you’re heading somewhere remote, with a basic first aid course as the minimum. Keep some extra items in your first aid kit to cater for your specific needs as well. Lauren also mentions that it’s important to have an alternative method of communication if you frequently travel to areas where there isn’t a reliable phone signal. This could be in the form of a satellite communicator, satellite phone, or PLB. Even with some First Aid training, if there’s a life-threatening emergency, urgent medical attention will be required.

‘Ben – you always seem very focused on weight and functionality (rightfully so), but what do you take camping that isn’t necessary and something you consider a luxury?’

If it’s a luxury item, Ben usually doesn’t take it. That said, when he travelled up north (where it’s hot and humid), he carried a 12V Breezeway Fan from Outdoor Connection to keep his family cool.

Navigate the nooks and crannies with your kids, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. Image: Coleman

Sleeping Gear

‘I currently have 50mm thick, self-inflatable sleeping mats for my family car-camping trips.

I am finding lately that the mats don’t self-inflate as much as they used to, and aren’t as comfortable. I was thinking of going for hiking air mattresses with insulation, so they can be also used for canoe camping and the odd hike. Are these a good option, or should I consider something else?’

You could certainly use an air mat – but one of the main benefits of a self-inflating foam mat is that if there’s a puncture, you will still have some insulation to sleep on. Consider that you might have different comfort standards when you’re hiking compared to when you go family camping. You might want to go for a self-inflating mat designed for hiking, as they’re more durable and comfortable but still fairly lightweight.

‘Where can I find mattress toppers for swags?’

For those who are unfamiliar with a mattress topper – this is a corresponding product that provides added padding and comfort to an existing mattress. Where some have walls like a fitted sheet, others are simply a mat of synthetic fibre, down, merino or wool. Lauren recommends merino for adequate temperature regulation, while Ben simply utilises a fitted bed sheet that he tucks beneath the mattress sides.

While residential mattress sizes don’t align with those of swags, Lauren suggests visiting Target, K-Mart, Spotlight, or other hardware and homeware stores for adequate options.

‘Stretcher bed Vs air bed Vs self-inflating mat?

Particular consideration for those with back issues, knee issues, hand issues (i.e. comfort, getting up off the ground, assembling equipment, or closing valves)?’

Ben and Lauren reckon the best option for someone who might have limited mobility would be a stretcher that provides elevation, plus a self-inflating mat with a two-way valve so it’s easier to set up and pack away.

Consider that your comfort standards when you’re hiking will be different compared to when you go family camping. Image: Exped

‘What’s the best sleeping bag for men, and what’s the best for women?’

This is a complicated question as there are many factors, and most bags in the higher price bracket will perform similarly. Once you decide on either a synthetic or down bag, narrow it down to the fit, look for an EN rating, and consider size and packability.

Ben and Lauren also recommend listening to their interview with Sea to Summit discussing sleep systems, which might help with the decision-making process.

‘I bought a brand new down sleeping bag but it has a strong smell, like a wet dog.

I’m wondering if the down inside is bad, or something’s wrong with the bag? Is it normal that new down bags stink?’

This is totally normal and very common. Keep in mind, feathers are a natural fibre, so they will have a natural scent that will fade over time. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, but there are some things you can do to minimise it like taking it out of its storage sack and hanging it up in your wardrobe to ventilate. You also have the option of washing your down bag, but wetting the feathers can sometimes intensify the smell. We recommend keeping it dry, airing it, and just being patient.

‘Best sleeping bags for bigger people?’

For the taller campers, Sea to Summit offer longer-style sleeping bags. At 185cm, Ben fits a regular sized bag, while at 191cm tall Lauren’s partner is better suited to a longer design.

For those who are simply broader – or as Lauren calls it, ‘cuddlier’ – women-specific designs by Sea to Summit are narrower in the shoulders but allow more room in the hip area. Additionally, their Amplitude and Basecamp series mirror a large sack, feature two warmth ratings, and are significantly more spacious. Lauren describes their appearance as a fluffy balloon, boasting a huge internal circumference for star-fishing and spreading wide. These particular styles are popular among motorcycle tourists too.
Unlike the Mummy shaped design – wide at the shoulders, tapering at the feet – the rectangular fit maintains the same measure of room from head to toe. The Sea to Summit website indicates the internal circumference of their sleeping bags, as well as hip and shoulder measurements.

Like Sea to Summit, Darche also offer a 1100 sleeping bag that aligns with a King-King-Single size. While this doesn’t quite meet the same volume of space as a double, it is larger than a single and thus still offers a roomy alternative.

Weather Protection

‘What is the best rain jacket and best down jacket for men, what’s the best for women?’

This is a tricky one, as we don’t sell clothing at Snowys; it’s not our area of speciality. Essentially, when it comes to the top-of-the-range, high-quality clothing (where you’re spending $500+), the differences will likely be minor.

Generally, we would say that the hallmark of a high-quality rain jacket would be breathable waterproof fabric with ventilation and a good hood.

In terms of down jackets – if you’re just looking for one to wear around town, you could definitely go for something more affordable. However, if you’re using it for technical applications, look for models that use responsibly sourced down, have a good warmth-to-weight ratio, and feature water-resistant fabric.

‘Has anyone made up their own windbreak?

I was thinking of using shade cloth and star droppers. I think star droppers might be on the heavy and awkward-to-store side of things though – are there aluminium poles that would be suitable?’

Definitely – but we would suggest not taking star droppers as they are heavy, so could be dangerous in an accident. Even if strapped on tightly, it will become a spear if it begins to move with too much weight around it. Whatever you put on the roof rack must be secure. Aluminium poles will help save weight, so they are a good choice – plus, you’ll need good pegs and guy ropes. Ben recommends taking a mesh tarp folded in half, as this will mediate and slow the wind without putting too much stress on the poles.

‘Do you always pack clothing for any weather, or do you only ever pack for expected weather?’

Ben is a light packer, so he plans based on the expected weather forecast – although he might take a pair of pants and a light jumper sometimes, just in case. Lauren follows the same principle, though she might occasionally throw in a pair of comfy longer pants for wearing around camp. Regardless of the weather, she always packs a thick pair of socks to help her stay warm.

‘Tips or tricks for camping in the rain?’

In previous episodes, Lauren and Ben have touched on some logistics surrounding camping in wetter weather. Nonetheless, Ben encourages campers to enjoy the pitter-patter of raindrops on the still, damper days.

To prepare for the no-so-pleasant occasions, assess the weather predictions via the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) or your local agency. At the campsite, ensure guys ropes are taught, the fly is fully tensioned to ensure efficient funneling of rain, and establish a sheltered space for cooking and socialising, such as a spare tarp or gazebo.

Stick to lighting brands that are known for quality, such as Ledlenser. Image: Ledlenser

Electronics, Lighting, and Power

‘I’m thinking of buying a good head torch, but I don’t know if it’s worth spending good dollars on one or just replacing cheap ones as they stuff up…’

Ben’s approach to gear is that the fewer items thrown away, the better. Generally, with head torches, you get what you pay for. Ben has had a Princeton Tec head torch for 15 years which cost around $100. It has been on many adventures with him, and is still going strong! Stick to brands that are known for quality such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Silva, Ledlenser, or Nitecore.

For Lauren, the most important factors are that the unit is rechargeable and the battery can be replaced. She has used BioLite torchs in the past, but the internal battery can’t be replaced – this means that eventually it will end up in landfill. Instead, she now uses a Petzl Tikkina headlamp with a replaceable battery.

‘How do I determine the best small option for recharging my phone when camping, away from power points and a stationary vehicle, for 4-5 days?’

We would say start by working out what devices you’re going to use (e.g. just your phone, or other gear) and how much you want to use each device. Generally though, a small 20mAh powerbank should be suitable as something you can charge at home or while you drive.

Tents

‘Thoughts on camper trailers Vs tents for young family camping?’

Camper trailers are great for those who have the space at home to store them, are happy to tow, and also spend the initial investment by purchasing one. However, some limitations are that they can be time-consuming to put up, involve more maintenance, and require space for storage at home. That said, camper trailers are convenient and easier to get going with on your adventures –especially with kids.

‘Here’s one for Ben: would you take a hiking tent on your regular car-camping trips, or a larger tent?

Also, do you have an AGM battery in the car, or Lithium? If not Lithium, will you make the switch eventually?’

In his younger days, Ben was a hiker who took his lightweight tent on camping trips – but as his family grew, he upgraded to an older-style Black Wolf Tuff tent. He then upgraded to an Oztent RV5 tent for outback adventures, which is what he and his family still use now.

Currently, he has a lead-acid auxiliary and main battery, so he can charge them both with the same profile. That said, he would like to switch to lithium in the future to save weight.

Which tents on the market are the easiest and most efficient to set up and pack down for a newbie?

Lauren believes that the easiest to set up would be an air tent or an Instant Up design. Ben recommends checking out a basic dome tent, as you can’t really go wrong with good quality construction and thoughtful design.

‘What do you think of cheaper tents found at department stores?’

If you’re looking for a tent to survive a couple of uses, they will be fine – but if you want something that will stand up to many years of use, generally you do get what you pay for. If you were to have an issue with it, it’s unlikely that spare parts would be available, so even though the tent can be replaced through warranty the broken one will end up in landfill. We’d say the better approach is to buy once, buy right – so you can enjoy your shelter over many adventures.

A Muk Mat will help to prevent beach, bush, and campground grit from making its way indoors. Image: Muk Mat

Gear, Campsite, and General Maintenance

‘How can we limit the amount of sand and dirt little feet bring into our swags?

We have a 3-week trip planned with a mixture of beach, bush, and campground swagging with a 2- and 5-year-old!

You probably won’t be able to prevent this entirely, but you can manage it by keeping your shoes outside the swag. Putting a Muk Mat or some sort of foam matting outside as a doormat will help, as well as keeping a dustpan and brush on the inside to help get rid of any dirt on your bedding.

‘How can we keep pesky pests at bay? Wildlife sure are experts at penetrating defences!’

Lauren hasn’t really experienced issues with wildlife, as she camps with dogs and kids (so the noise probably keeps them at arm’s length). Neither has Ben. However, some general tips would be to keep food scraps secure, cover up and use insect repellents, set up orange lighting to deter bugs, and keep your tent zipped closed.

‘What is the best option for managing mozzies in particular when camping?’

As Ben’s wife is a mozzie-magnet, he suggests using EVERYTHING!

Some repellants include Thermocells, DEET, mosquito nets, sprays, and coils in still climates. For chemical-free prevention strategies, cover bare skin with long-sleeved clothing, keep screens and panels securely zipped, and simply factor a barrier of any kind into your camp set-up. For more tactics, check out Ep31 – Creepy Crawlies at the Campsite – or this blog on the many ways to repel bugs while camping.

‘How can I fix a snapped swag pole?’

For snapped fibreglass or alloy poles, the swag pole repair kit by Darche is a helpful henchman. For aluminium repairs, Darche offer two different kits – one for angular, segmental swags, and the other for arched hoops found in dome designs.

Replacement fibreglass poles of the same diameter can be sourced and simply cut to length, while repairing a breakage or snap is often done using the small tube-like sleeve (ferrule) included with most swags. Simply slide this over the top of the rupture and secure with duct tape for a temporary, stable fix lasting the remainder of a trip. Lauren demonstrates how to approach this in a Snowys YouTube video.

As for alloy poles, these are more difficult to repair or replace. Lauren and Ben suggest returning to the respective manufacturer for assistance.

‘Any unpacking, at-home rituals? Tips on gear checks and maintenance? Wet or windy weather activities?’

Ben and his family try to unpack straight away following a camping trip, before they do anything else. He generally makes notes while camping of anything that needs to be addressed or refilled, so it’s easy to sort everything upon arriving home. Lauren tends to leave it to the next day as she usually arrives home from her trips quite late. As her van is not their daily car, it doesn’t need to be unpacked straight away – however, she does take out the laundry, rubbish, and any leftover food.

In terms of activities on a rainy or windy day, Ben and Lauren suggest playing cards, games, reading a book, or listening to music to pass the time.

Ben loves making pizza and damper on the campfire. Image: Campfire

Camp Cooking and Food

‘Best coffee makers for camping?’

A good question for Ben, who maintains that the AeroPress or Wacaco are the most ideal coffee brewers out bush. While an AeroPress can simply be filled with water before a dash of cold milk, the Wacaco produces a traditional espresso shot that requires heated milk to produce an equally hot, hearty cup.

For the super hardcore hot coffee fanatics, some large silver stove-top setups produce espresso and steam milk simultaneously. Boiling the water builds up pressure, creating the shot and concurrently steaming the milk.

‘What’s your favourite recipe for camp stoves and open fires?’

In terms of campfire recipes, Ben loves making pizza and damper, while Lauren is a fan of a bacon and eggs brekkie or stewed lamb shanks in a camp oven. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Fire to Fork cookbook is a good place to start.

Camp stove cooking can be restrictive, but you could get fancy with pasta sauces or use a hotplate to cook a BBQ. Lauren mainly just pre-cooks meals at home and vacuum seals them to reheat in boiling water. This saves gas, time, and cleaning up.

Ben and Lauren chat with Fire to Fork’s Harry Fisher about all things campfire cooking:

‘What food is best to leave in the pantry for short overnight stops (product review on Back Country or Outdoor Gourmet food brands)?’

While Lauren and Ben have previously tapped into freeze-dried and dehydrated meals, they plan to present a more hands-on, detailed demonstration that offers a better sense of how these packet foods look, taste, and cook. Until then, Lauren offers her opinion, essentially describing them as hit-or-miss. Ben and Lauren often have opposing views depending on the brand or choice of meal, which is ultimately suggestive of how subjective freeze-dried and rehydrated food reviews really are.

The appeal of freeze-dried meals comes from their convenience on lightweight adventures, and so aren’t a pleasing enough substitute for a meal on occasions when standard food would otherwise be consumed. For example, Ben’s go-to pasta recipe on his most recent camping holiday used canned vegetables which, in comparison to packet meals, allowed a ‘fresher’-tasting dinner. That said, the Radix brand of freeze-dried food is commonly preferred over others, with a greater resemblance to standard meals.

Overall, Ben suggests canned or long-life food to keep overnight in the pantry, given no refrigeration is required. On that, products displaying a ‘best before’ date often has greater flexibility around the consumption timeline than that of a ‘use by’. That said, the further it surpasses its date stamp, the more it drops in quality and flavour.

Other alternatives include the Offgrid and Go Native brand of heat-and-eat packet food. Go Native is preserved via ‘retort packaging’. This method involves sealing the cooked food while still hot, as opposed to dehydrating. From here, the packet simply requires reheating with boiling water. Ben recommends this as a hearty alternative to other packet meals.

‘Best ultralight cutlery and crockery for hiking, at the lowest price?’

Our podcast hosts both agree that the Sea to Summit polypropylene set is the most cost-efficient and effective hiking cutlery, at just under five dollars per set. Bundled as a fork, spoon, and knife, simply link with a carabiner for a no-fuss food-friendly system. The Delta range of cutlery is shorter, constructed with durable polypropylene and the same reinforced nylon plastic, finished with a flexible plastic carabiner for keeping neat and collected amongst your clutter.  

For crockery, the Sea to Summit Delta bowl and/or plate is a lightweight option. When hiking, a bowl is generally all that’s required, while the additional plate often bodes better for a camping-style holiday.

Ultimately though, Lauren insists that if your camp cutlery isn’t comfortable to hold, the eating experience is thrown completely off course! For that reason – and all lightweight, cost-effective suggestions aside – she carries a set of standard steel cutlery in her camping kit.

Offgrid is an example of fresh, heat-and-eat packaged food, great for overnight stops. Image: Offgrid

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

‘The Snowys products Ben and Lauren couldn’t go without?’

A coffee connoisseur at the campsite, Ben’s response – an AeroPress – is hardly a surprise. His commonly coined nickname ‘Safety Ben’ has him sheepishly admitting that his choice should probably be something more along the lines of a first aid kit or a swag. Nonetheless, he can’t go without coffee – and wasn’t that the question?!

On the other hand, Lauren claims that her Scrubba Wash Bag and Collapsible Space Saving tubs are the most-used, well-loved, not-to-be-forgotten tackle in her pack. After not taking her washbag on her last getaway, she missed it more than she expected – while her collapsible tubs now allow far more room in her kitchen, holding large pats of butter, avocado halves, and wads of bacon.

‘Favoured Snowys products by Snowys staff?’

Jess from Customer Service: a sleeping bag liner. Versatile throughout both warm and wintery weather, this product also keeps her sleeping bag clean.

Sam from Customer Service: trekking poles. Be it for relieving pressure from the knees, hoisting herself up hills, checking the levels of mud holes before heaving across hip-deep, or flipped upside-down for use as tent poles – Sam believes that trekking poles offer true camping comradery.

Laine from the Web Team: a soft-sided cooler and luggage scales. Too often has he left beers behind at a BBQ in someone else’s fridge, so his cooler is now his personal, portable cranny for the cold ones. Thanks to his luggage scales too, he now beats getting burnt at the JetStar luggage check-in, previously packing too much tackle that wavered over the ideal weight.

Cory from IT: his fridge (for keeping his beer), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Cup (for drinking his beer), and Pacsafe waist wallet (…for buying his beer).

Leece from Customer Support: like Ben, an AeroPress – plus a Delta insulated cup.

Michael from the Web Team: a round jaffle iron! Leading up to his travels, Michael would purchase McDonald’s cheeseburgers to keep in the fridge. At the campsite, he simply cooked them in the jaffle iron over the campfire for an even faster fast-food fix!

Brett from the Web Team: the JetBoil Zip. Simply fill, clip, and boil – the perfect stripped-down, lightweight option for fast adventures, covering your coffee fix or for reheating a Radix meal. Lauren owns the JetBoil MiniMo – a short, stocky alternative – which perches perfectly and patiently for her prior to brewing a coffee or tea. An all-round, well-loved product in the Snowys family!

‘When will Snowys open a store in Sydney?’

Unfortunately, to Ben and Lauren’s knowledge, this won’t be a move Snowys will make in the foreseeable future. That said, the ever-evolving, ridgy-didge website successfully accommodates every Snowys supporter around the country!

From swags to Scrubba wash bags, there are some key items that Ben and Lauren can’t go camping without. Image: Darche

For an audio experience, tune into the following episodes as Ben and Lauren address the above questions:

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 65, 66, and 92 to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 1) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

If you’ve decided to upgrade from the trusty tent or swag, this article will guide you through many of the considerations when buying your first camper trailer. There’s a reason so many camper trailers pop up on the market after only one or two uses! Sometimes circumstances change, but often the wrong camper trailer is purchased for the job… and that can be an expensive and painful mistake to learn.

So, what should you think about upon buying your first camper trailer?

A hard floor camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

What Can You Tow?

If you have no intention of changing your tow vehicle, this is the best place to start. Find out what your maximum towing capacity is, as well as the maximum tow ball weight, GVM, and GCM. If you aren’t sure about all this, take a few minutes to read this 4WD towing guide.

There are a lot of people out there towing trailers that are not legal, and this puts the drivers (and others on the road) at considerable risk. Some camper trailers are light (around 500kg), and some are extremely heavy (around 3 tonnes!).

The tow ball weight is one to pay particular attention to, as heavy tow ball weights can make life difficult when attempting to remain underweight for most 4WDs on the market.

Where Do You Want to Take It?

The next step is to really think about where you’d like to travel with your camper trailer. There’s a reason so many types and duty levels exist on the market today. Some owners just want something comfortable to tow up bitumen road on the way to their regular caravan park a few times a year, and others want to hammer their trailer on the roughest 4WD tracks in Australia and pull up in comfort for months on end!

Where you want to take your camper trailer ultimately determines the strength and quality that you’ll need and, like anything, how much it’s going to cost!

Travelling the NT with a camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Budget

There are more camper trailers on the market than ever before; well over 100 different brands. Some are new, some have been around for a long time, and every couple of months a few close down. The prices of camper trailers vary anywhere from around $5000 to $200,000 and the industry is extremely competitive.

Often the pricing reflects what you get, but not always. The takeaway from this point is to set yourself a budget and don’t look at anything outside of this – it’s just too confusing. You can get yourself a good quality, second-hand, Australian-made camper trailer for $10,000–$20,000 that ticks the boxes for a lot of people. What you spend is entirely up to you – but don’t get ripped off!

Types of Camper Trailers

Once you start poking around camper trailers, you’ll see there are a lot of different designs. Soft floor, hard floor, rear fold, forward fold, hybrid, and pop-top are about the most common arrangements. That said, there are a heap of very intuitive designs out there today that grey the lines between their specific camper trailer types. They all have their own pros and cons, and you must get what works for you.

You’ll notice there are many different designs of camper trailers. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Soft floor, hard floor, rear fold, forward fold, hybrid, and pop-top are about the most common arrangements. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Attend a 4WD/Camping Show

The easiest place to suss out a heap of camper trailers in a short period of time is the local Caravan/Camping/4WD shows. It makes things so much easier.

Setup Time

A soft-floor camper trailer is great, but the setup and pack away can be time-consuming, difficult, and can ultimately affect where and how long you can stay. Single-night stays are not always worth the effort. You can find camper trailers that set up in under a minute with zero effort – or, on the flip side, soft floor campers with extra rooms that will literally take two people an hour to set up!

Setup time might not matter if you only use your trailer a few times a year. If you are setting it up and packing it away every single day for weeks on end though, it will get old – really fast!

4WD expert Aaron’s soft floor camper trailer near Broome. Image: Aaron Schubert

Off-Grid Capacity

We live in the ‘lucky’ country. Not only do we have some fantastic caravan parks, but world-class national parks and some of the best free or low-cost camping in the world. Where you camp is entirely up to you, but one of the major factors to consider when buying a camper trailer is how long you can survive off the grid for.

This refers to your ability to live out of your camper trailer without plugging into water, power, and sewage, like many do in caravan parks. For camper trailers, your water tank size, electrical system (solar and batteries), fridge size, showering facilities, and toilets usually cover off-grid capacity.

If you have a large enough electrical system to run your appliances and charge them via solar or a generator each day, your limitation is usually water supply. Some camper trailers are only really set up for a night or two away from power and water, and others can last weeks. It can be expensive to modify this, so spend some time looking into it!

Camping at a caravan park. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Some camper trailers are only really set up for a night or two away from power and water, and others can last weeks. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

How Often Will You Use the Camper Trailer?

If you’ve not done much camping before, and you aren’t completely obsessed with it, think about how much use the camper trailer will get. You can hire them out from lots of different places these days, and sometimes it’s a cheaper and easier alternative than buying your own and looking after it.

This is also a good consideration in terms of how much you might spend, and what level of comfort you need. If it’s just for the annual holiday, you might be okay doing without some creature comforts. If you want to live in it for a year though, that’s a different kettle of fish!

Are You Prepared to Pay to Keep It?

Camper trailers need space to live and require rego, maintenance, and insurance. This can vary a lot, depending on what state you are in and the value/age of your trailer, but they aren’t free to own. While not nearly as expensive as a boat (in general), they can cost a chunk of money when replacing worn components and keeping them insured.

Think about how often you’re going to use your camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Storage and Payload

A key reason for buying a camper trailer is for the extra storage. For families with a new baby in tow, the amount of extra gear you need to take along for a comfortable camping trip is ridiculous!

Some camper trailers have very limited storage options for your gear and a fridge. Think about where you will put your clothes, fridge, solar panels, toiletries, kitchen gear, food, kids’ gear, and whatever else.

Next, have a good look at the payload. This refers to the amount of weight you can legally add onto/into the trailer, and is the difference between the ATM and the tare. Some camper trailers have a tiny payload, with only 300kg to play with. After you fill your LPG bottles and water tanks, you are already close to the limit – and that’s before any extras!

What’s the Build Quality Like?

Like anything, take the time to look at the build quality. Chassis construction, suspension, canvas thickness, door and hatch seals, wiring and plumbing, and overall finish are all aspects you want to look carefully into. There are a lot of imported trailers on the market now, which are either entirely or partially made overseas, then shipped in and sold off to the local market.

Some of these are good quality, some are terrible. The build quality needs to reflect how much you are going to use it and where you intend to take it. Buy the cheapest international import camper trailer and abuse it on the worst tracks in Australia, and it will fall apart!

If you’re not into rock-hopping, chassis-twisting activities, maybe settle for a trailer with sound construction that can be easily improved – like raising its height, strengthening the springs, installing stone guards, leading power cables inside the frame, or replacing the ball coupling with a TREG hitch.

Whether you buy an all-in-one camper trailer or the tent and trailer separately, keep in mind you can do a lot of the relevant alternations yourself. This will save a lot of money, rather than buying a more expensive rig.

A camper trailer provides you with plenty of space. Image: Aaron Schubert

Lucky for stone guards! Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Space

A floor area of roughly 2×2.6m isn’t huge, but a decent size for two people, with a small table, and two chairs. A 2.5×3.1m awning space is adequate and usable too. Many camper trailers allow you to add on rooms too. If your family is growing, check whether the camper you have your eye on will accommodate this.

Kitchen

A lot of camper trailers feature kitchens as their major selling point, and some have brilliant configurations. That said, you might want to opt for a trailer without the proverbial kitchen sink! Some people have a permanent kitchen set up in the back of their vehicle instead, so they can off at short notice with either a tent or the camper trailer.

If your family is growing, check whether the camper you have your eye on will accommodate this. Image: Michael Page-Sharp

Take into consideration how functional your camper trailer will be. Image: Aaron Schubert

Do Your Own Research – And Lots Of It!

Jump on Google and look around for reviews on the model you’re chasing. There are often a lot of Facebook camper trailer groups too, which are a gold mine for common problems and their solutions, modifications, or upgrades. Don’t rely on the salespeople – they often leave out half of the truth to make a sale!

Nothing is Perfect

If it makes you feel any better, there is no perfect camper trailer! Everything you look at will result in one or more forms of compromise. It might be too heavy, too big, too expensive, too slow to set up, lacking some functionality… whatever it may be, our advice is simple: make a list of the things you must have, can do without, and would simply like to have, then find whatever ticks the most boxes.

Not every camper trailer is going to be liked by every prospective buyer, and that’s what makes them unique.

There’s Nothing Wrong with Second-Hand!

There are a huge number of second-hand camper trailers on the market, ranging from single-use through to years of enjoyment. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a second-hand buy, providing you know what you are getting.

Hire Before Buying

If you are looking at new trailers, often you can hire the unit prior to putting cash down. This will be deducted from the purchase price. It’s a clever idea, as you’ll soon know whether or not it suits you.

An Ultimate Off-Road Campers camper trailer. Image: Aaron Schubert

Enjoy It!

When you eventually settle on a camper trailer, enjoy it! Take your time to do things slowly; it’s an adjustment, and it’s easy to forget everything that needs to be done. Enjoy the extra luxury that you have behind your tow vehicle, and create amazing memories!

See you out there!

Are you thinking of upgrading your current shelter to a camper trailer? 

The post Guide to Buying a Camper Trailer appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, many of us love getting out of the big smoke and hit the roads to find quieter places that give us a sense of the great outdoors. We travel to these places because they are different to our everyday environment. This requires understanding that the services we take for granted cannot always be delivered in the same seamless way we expect. 

Many of us love getting out of the big smoke and hit the roads to find quieter places that give us a sense of the great outdoors. Image: BlackWolf

Water

For many outback towns, the only source of water is through bores. Some places are lucky and the water is beautiful. But in others, it can be slightly brackish and have a sulphurous smell. This water is fine for washing yourselves and clothing, but may need boiling before drinking. It’s what the locals live with all the time; nothing wrong with it, just different.

In towns like Coober Pedy in South Australia, the only source of water is from a bore about 30km out of town! It’s too salty to use, and every drop has to be treated by reverse osmosis to be useable. This process is very energy-intensive and expensive. Paying 20 cents for 40 litres of water, or a few cents for a shower in the caravan park may seem inconvenient – but this is what the locals pay all the time!

Waste

Ever pulled into a roadside rest area only to find bins overflowing and garbage strewn everywhere? Imagine the logistics and cost of emptying these regularly, many of which involve travelling hundreds of kilometres to the nearest town.

There is a simple solution to this: take your garbage with you and dispose of it in the next town. It’s great to see many 4WDs with garbage bags hanging on their spare wheel, which is an easy method of approach. Before telling all your friends how bad a place is, or rushing to social media or review sites, have a long hard think about what is causing the problem. Talk to the local people about the situation so that any comments you do make are informed and measured. Remember, once it’s on the internet, it’s there forever – good, bad, or ugly. Uninformed and sometimes completely wrong comments may well have a detrimental effect on other people’s livelihood – so think before you speak.

When leaving your camp area, take your garbage with you and dispose of it in the next town. Image: BlackWolf

Having a durable bin bag attached to the outside of your vehicle means the inside of your car won’t get stinky. Image: Aaron Schubert

Toileting

Very few small outback towns have proper sewerage systems, with many relying on septic tanks or similar eco solutions. In some places, especially campgrounds, a long-drop is the solution to this everyday problem!

Sure, sometimes there is a smell, and this often made worse by travellers emptying chemical toilet tanks into these systems. This instantly kills the bacteria that break down waste and reduce the smell. One should only ever empty chemical toilets into designated dump points or, if there is no other option, bury it in a very deep hole dug well away from any trees, water sources, creeks, or stock watering points.

Keep in mind that when these systems break down there are usually no plumbers on call! This often results in considerable delays before repairs are carried out. The other major problem can be seen at any roadside rest area or camping spot: toilet paper and human waste scattered around the area! This results in many areas closing to campers.

Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), the days of the squat and a shovel are rapidly disappearing. This is likely due to the number of campers around, which makes it more difficult to find a private spot!

Two aspects need to be considered:

• What to do it in
• How to do it privately

Very few small outback towns have proper sewerage systems, with many relying on septic tanks or similar eco solutions. Image: Aaron Schubert

In some places, especially campgrounds, a long-drop is the solution! Image: BlackWolf

Dig and Squat

This method of toileting in the bush can still be possible in more remote areas, but it needs some consideration:

• The hole must be at least 30cm deep to ensure there is enough soil on top of what has been deposited. This reduces the chance of animals, attracted by smell, digging up the area.
• Burn the toilet paper (ensure kids are supervised and there is not a fire ban) to reduce the chance of the paper being dug up and scattered. Or, place toilet paper in a Ziplock bag and dispose of it when you next arrive at a proper garbage disposal site. Carry a container of these bags in your vehicle and RV. You only need the cheap ones!
• For those who prefer better comfort, there are toilet seats mounted on old camp stool legs, designed to be placed over the hole. A variety of these is available online. Just remember to put the lid down to keep the flies out!
• Sometimes, trees and bushes do not provide the required level of privacy. This is where a pop-up toilet/shower tent is invaluable.

The ‘Dig and Squat’ method can still be possible in more remote areas, but it needs some consideration. Image: Aaron Schubert

Portable Chemical Toilets

Although the Porta-Potti has been around for years, many people have not seen the need, discouraged by both the smell and the requirement to empty and clean.

Well, modern portable toilets are easy to use, flush, and clean. They’re available in a variety of sizes, and even feature an electric, push-button flushing mechanism. Many Councils around the country have installed public dump points for the emptying of portable toilets (look for the RV Friendly sign when coming into country towns) and most caravan parks now have this facility. So, let’s see how they work.

Construction and Setup

• Portable toilets consist of an upper flushing tank and a lower waste tank that clip together and are separated by a sealed opening into the waste tank.
• Fill the top tank with water and add the required amount of flushing tank fluid. This fluid deodorises the water and gives it a degree of “slipperiness”, a bit like detergent. The Thetford Aqua Rinse, for example, works really well.
• Place a small amount of water and the required amount of waste tank fluid in the waste tank. Thetford Aqua Kem Green is very effective.

A major problem can be seen at any roadside rest area or camping spot: toilet paper and human waste scattered around the area! Image: Aaron Schubert

Your tank should be emptied at a proper dump point or in a toilet on a sewerage system. Image: Aaron Schubert

Using the Portable Toilet

• Regardless of the nature of the visit, sitting down on the job is generally the best way of using a portable toilet.
• If number two’s are the order of the day, a couple of sheets of toilet paper placed in the bottom of the bowl and across the opening aid in the clean-up later on. Even though specific toilet paper that breaks down easily is often recommended, there isn’t a problem with using standard toilet paper.
• To flush the toilet, open the sealed separator between the two tanks and push the flush button. Or, use the pump until the bowl is clean.
• When flushing, a small toilet brush is useful to ensure proper cleanliness. If staying in one place for some time, set the toilet up in a changing tent with a container of water mixed with a small amount of waste tank fluid to hold the toilet brush.
• Close the sealed separator after use.

Emptying the Portable Toilet

This is probably the part that puts people off using a portable toilet more than anything else! Nonetheless, it need not be a major hassle. Modern toilet chemicals deal with the smell and are very effective at breaking down solid waste and toilet paper.

• Separate the flushing tank from the waste tank.
• The tank should be emptied at a proper dump point or in a toilet on a sewerage system. As mentioned previously, never empty into a toilet on a septic system as the chemicals can kill the bacteria that allow the septic system to work.
• Always ensure that the breather mechanism is operating when emptying the tank, to avoid any ‘glug’-causing splashes.
• Thoroughly rinse the tank to ensure a complete clean.
• You are now ready to add more chemicals and flushing water to set up the toilet for further use.

Ben and Lauren discuss taking care of business in the outdoor in Episode 51 of the Snowys Camping Show:

From rubbish collection to track maintenance, there are a few considerations when leaving no trace in a 4WD. Image: Darche

Leaving No Trace in a 4WD

Rubbish Collection & Maintenance

Once again, take all of your rubbish with you when you leave!

This includes cans, bottles, food scraps, and everything in between. If you are allowed a campfire, you can burn paper, cardboard, and toilet paper – but the rest should be bagged up securely and taken out with you. Cans, especially tuna, can be rinsed and thrown on the fire to burn off any residue that might either attract animals or become stinky – but remember to remove them from the ashes and bag them up to take with you.

Keep a heap of big garbage bags in your kit and when they are full, stash the load in a wheel bag on the back of the camper trailer. Then, dump it into a public bin when you next pass through a town. If the bins are full, don’t leave your rubbish – the crows and other animals will get into it and distribute it everywhere.

If you are allowed a campfire, you can burn paper, cardboard, toilet paper, and even tuna cans to remove residue. Image: Barry Peters

Having a rubbish storage option that doesn’t pong out your car is a critical part of doing this easily and efficiently. Wheel bags like the Bushranger or the canvas model from Blacksmith Camping Supplies are true game-changers for taking rubbish home on the back of your camper, 4WD, or caravan.

One of the bigger problems (literally) is that of larger items being discarded. Broken camp furniture, tents, tyres, recovery gear, and vehicle accessories get dumped when they are damaged or broken. Just because they are trickier to pack, do the right thing and leave nothing behind.

Boe and Kimberley from Outback Cleanups Australia, are committed to travelling from beach to bush, cleaning up all the rubbish left behind by others. Image: Outback Cleanups Australia

Rubbish tossed at Kellys Knob. Image: Aaron Schubert

Track Maintenance & Condition

Long story, short – stick to designated tracks and drive sensibly.

If you own a 4WD vehicle, you can do a huge amount of damage when you drive where you aren’t supposed to. Stay on existing tracks: stock routes, fire access tracks, and old industry trails like those from CSIRO exploration.

Be aware of areas where you need a permit, and ask permission before you enter private property. If there are no designated tracks, follow old tyre marks – if you can’t see any, perhaps consider whether or not you should be driving there at all!

Not all rules are made to be broken, so obey the signs. National parks, private property, and general tourist hot spots will have rules that should be followed. If you see a sign declaring the area has restricted access, and you haven’t had your movements approved by the relevant authorities, do not enter. If you pass through a gate, leave it as you found it – be it open or closed. If closed, be mindful of the way in which it was latched and ensure you secure it properly.

Stay out of areas in where you are not meant to be. Keep to the tracks that are marked and designated on a map. Have a Plan B with an alternative route mapped out, so if conditions are compromised on the day you can go another way without risking your vehicle or further damage to the terrain.

If the track is not well used and has become overgrown, navigate your way carefully. Weave around trees, and avoid damaging or clearing branches and other vegetation as much as possible. If you must remove a low overhanging branch, don’t recklessly snap it off – this risks damage and disease to the tree. Use a saw instead to do the job in the most responsible way.

Stay on existing tracks. Image: Darche

Managing Different Terrain

One of the fastest ways you can wreck an off-road track is to drive without letting your tyres down. High tyre pressures will put more stress on your vehicle, but they also do unnecessary damage to tracks. This results in greater levels of maintenance and regular grading, otherwise those people driving behind will have a far more unpleasant experience. Get the right tyres for the terrain, and adjust your pressures to suit.

A bit of wheel spin is inevitable, and in many instances completely harmless – but if you are ripping up grassed areas, or driving foolishly just for the fun of it, pull your head in!

Bush

It’s harsh and unforgiving, but there is a thriving ecosystem out there! Avoid driving over spinifex grasses. They may not look like much, but they trap soil nutrients and are a habitat for small creatures.

Sand & Dunes

When driving along beaches, sticking to the firmer, packed sand, close to the low tide mark, is often your best bet. However, it’s worth having a quick read about the particular location so you can be aware of undulating/off-camber features and sinkholes. If you are crossing dunes, keep to tracks – or, better still, use ramps if they are available. Many animals, including coastal birds and marine life, use the softer sand found at the high-tide mark and/or dunes for nesting. Vehicles can destroy these nests, as well as the essential vegetation that hold the integrity of the dunes with their network of roots.

Let your tyres down and match the pressure to the terrain you’re driving. Image: Aaron Schubert

Mud

Muddy tracks are easily cut up! Avoid making them worse by choosing an alternative route. Repairing tracks is expensive and access with the right machinery is difficult and time-consuming. As a consequence, local authorities or landowners are often forced to close a track that has suffered damage by irresponsible drivers.

You can still have fun and get your mud fix! We’re lucky in Australia to have a range of private locations that are designated 4WD playgrounds, so go your hardest there.

Water

Sometimes creek crossings are unavoidable, especially in the Kimberley region. Don’t cross them if you don’t need to – but if you do, look for an existing ford or track. Check the depth before attempting to drive across and be aware of the aquatic life – there could be fish breeding, or a rare species.

Mud! Image: Aaron Schubert

Animals & Wildlife

The ability to travel off-road allows you to explore more remote areas and witness some pretty spectacular scenes. From racehorse goannas to inquisitive birds, mobs of kangaroos and emus, and the inspiring sight of the Wedge-Tailed eagle or its nest – be there in the moment and soak it up, but don’t get carried away.

Wombat burrows litter the outback and are large enough to swallow the front half of a ute! Take it easy and weave your way through so both you, your vehicle, and the wombat’s home can remain unscathed.

Most of us are familiar with ‘roo-hour’, and if you are still on the track (or highway, for that matter) at dawn or dusk, take extra care and stay vigilant. Maintain deep respect for the animals and their environment. Try not to travel at night when wildlife is most active, and allow animals to move off the track before slowing down and calmly passing.

Stay downwind and don’t chase any animal with your vehicle. If you happen to hit a creature, always stop, check for life – both the animal and any young – and call your local wildlife organisation if help is needed.

Try to keep your engine revs low so as not to disturb or frighten any wildlife with your noise. If you must clear the path of rocks or logs, put them back once you have passed. These natural objects are their homes.

Wombat burrows can be huge and should be carefully driven around. Image: Coleman Australia

Acknowledge Country

Australia has a remarkable history which should be respected. Be culturally sensitive and observe your surroundings. Some sites are off-limits, sacred, or have restricted access – be it because they are a reserve for remote communities, or hold particular significance to specific groups. Even in lesser-known areas, climate change and the movement of dunes has revealed ancient Aboriginal middens. This is another reason to remain mindful when driving over dunes.

Making the effort to learn the cultural significance of the area in which you are travelling is a worthy investment of your time. Leave Aboriginal rock art alone, read the information available, and listen to and respect the teachings from local elders.

The Gija and Jaru peoples are the Traditional Custodians of Purnululu National Park – home to the Bungle Bungle. Image: Aaron Schubert

Recovery & Gear

The key to 4WDing is learning how to manage challenging terrain. Mastering this skill and navigating environments that are constantly changing is part of the thrill and what attracts enthusiasts to the activity. You never know what you’re going to get – but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be prepared.

Kitting out your vehicle with appropriate 4WD recovery gear makes all the difference. Not only to your safety, but also the impact you’ll have on the surrounding environment if you do find yourself in a situation (especially if you get bogged).

Equipment includes recovery tracks and a tree trunk protector or blanket to wrap around the tree before you winch yourself out. Safeguard your driving lights with clear covers too, so they’re shielded from stones or debris flicking up and cracking the bulbs.

If you’re extended touring and need to undergo some bush mechanics, do your research. If an oil change is necessary, be prepared with some empty containers to catch the old oil and newspapers cover the ground. Find out where you can dispose of the waste responsibly – don’t leave it behind, and don’t allow your old oil to empty out over the earth.

Using the right recovery gear will minimise the damage you cause to both your vehicle and the environment. Image: Aaron Schubert

Weeds & Grasses

Check around your muffler, grill, and vehicle’s undercarriage for any grasses or branches to clear before continuing on. This is especially important if you’re travelling between national parks or conservation areas, as it prevents the spread of weeds and fungal diseases.

Mufflers get hot too, and dry grasses caught in or around may catch alight. This is a danger to yourself inside your vehicle but also a bushfire risk if the flame then catches onto other grasses as you’re travelling.

All in all, before setting off, ensure your vehicle is in good shape. Check the mechanics, your tyres, and top up your kit with parts. Check and fix any oil leaks – and if you’re carrying a load, make sure you are not top-heavy! Distribute the weight so it’s balanced, too. A well-packed vehicle will handle the terrain more efficiently and cause less damage than one that is struggling due to an uneven load.

All in all, before setting off, ensure your vehicle is in good shape. Image: Aaron Schubert

Have fun and do the right thing. Remember to take stock of your behaviour – if what you’re doing is not sustainable, the track or campsite will ultimately close and will be no longer available for off-road adventurers like yourself!

If you see someone doing the wrong thing, carefully report them. Don’t put yourself in danger or confront them, just take a note of their details. Reporting is a part of keeping this great land beautiful for ourselves, each other, and future generations.

Have you got some tips to add to this list?

The post Outback Etiquette & Leaving No Trace appeared first on Snowys Blog.

When it comes to planning a trip away, some people are happy simply with a destination in mind and some rough dates. Others have the planning down to a fine art. The planning process can be as defined as you want it to be, and it’s vastly dependent on your circumstances. For example, if you have very young children you learn to plan your trips a little more than if you have the freedom to arrive at camp halfway through the night! Driving late at night looking for a campsite with a screaming toddler in the back typically isn’t a good time!

Have a detailed plan in place and the flexibility to throw it out the window as things change (and they will!). If you don’t put the effort into researching and planning early on, you could miss out on some amazing opportunities and places.

The planning process can be as defined as you want it to be, and it’s vastly dependent on your circumstances. Image: Aaron Schubert

Where to Start?

A longer trip away might seem a bit disconcerting to start with, but if you take your time and plan well, it’s easily achievable. It all begins with an idea: a place that you want to see, an experience you want to have, or some friends or family that you want to catch up with. From there, cover the below steps and let the planning begin.

Budgeting

What can you afford to do? Some travel a lap of Australia for less than $1000 per week, some up around $1500 per week, and others end up spending a lot more. The number of meals you eat out, how many attractions you see or experiences you have, how far you travel and the type of accommodation you stay at will all be impacted by your budget.

As a general rule, 30% of your budget will go to food, 30% will go to fuel, 20% to accommodation, and maybe 10% to entertainment or experiences. The remaining 10% will spread out across things like mobile phone bills, insurance, maintenance, or just purchasing or replacing things as you travel (you will definitely need to upgrade your fishing and camping gear!).

No one can tell you exactly how much you need, but you won’t need a full vault-load of cash to do it. It comes down to your tastes, style, and frequency/distance of travel.

If you take your time and plan well, an extended trip away is easily achievable. Image: The Todoing Family

Locations and Time of Year

You may already have a list of places that you want to visit. Call it a bucket list, or just some favourites – whatever it is, there’s more than enough to see in Australia. The key is to match your location to the right time of year. Get that nailed early on, and you’ll be off to a cracking start.

Australia has some obvious and distinct weather patterns. If you head to a great destination at the wrong time of year, you might find it doesn’t live up to your expectations. You can be hammered with winds, sitting in sand (white, yellow, red, or any colour in between), scorched by the sun, or pelted by rain. If you’re in a caravan or camper trailer, ensure it can stand up to the worst days – or have a plan to withstand the hot nights, chilly evenings, or washed-away days! Ultimately, everything works – just go in with what works for you, and whoever you’re travelling with. If it’s just a tent, so be it – it is so worth the effort!

The northern part of Australia is normally best experienced in the dry season. This runs from May to October each year. In the wet season, a lot of the roads are closed and you’ll cop hot weather and torrential rainfall! Summer in Perth is warm, so most head south to where it’s cooler – but come wintertime, watch how many people jump in their cars and head north in search of balmy days and sunshine while the rest of the country freezes through winter!

If you want to visit multiple locations, put every destination down to start with and narrow it down as you go. There are so many beautiful places to stay, but you can’t do them all. Also, beware of the crowds! It’s not fun as a lapping traveller to turn up with everyone else at a location, experience, or accommodation spot. Consider school holidays, weekends, and public holidays where crowds might be present.

Everything works – if it’s just a tent, so be it! Image: Aaron Schubert

A location such as Karijini can be hot, cold, or underwater depending on the time of year. Image: Aaron Schubert

Annual Leave and Time Off

The majority of working Australians are entitled to four precious weeks of annual leave a year. This is a major factor to consider when planning your trip away. If you want a really long trip away, you may need to go more than a year without any leave. Can you cope with that? How long do you have available? Is it months, a year, or maybe more? Australia is a massive country – you can literally spend years covering it and still not see everything! If the plan is to complete a lap of Australia, decide how long you have available first. Then, use this as a guide for breaking up the lap. Think about how you can maximise your annual leave – make use of public holidays and shift patterns (if applicable).

When you have a rough plan of where you’re going and how much time you’re taking off, book your annual leave. The earlier you do this, the better. Time creeps up faster than we expect! The more time you have to get things ready and plan an amazing holiday, the better.

Preparation

Australia is a big place. Don’t plan a trip without knowing that your 4WD and gear are up to the task, or that they will be by the time you leave. You’d be mad to head somewhere remote without the right gear to travel safely and comfortably.

Have a good think about facilities available. Some places do not have toilets and require grey water collection. Are you set up for that? Also, make sure that the gear and clothing you take cover the type of weather you’re due to experience!

Don’t plan a trip without knowing that your 4WD and gear are up to the task! Image: Aaron Schubert

In Episode 44 of the Snowys Camping Show, Ben unpacked his half-lap across Northern and Western Australia:

What to See and Do

Once the trip is booked in, you need to fill the gaps in and around each of your chosen locations. What is it that you want to see and do? You won’t fit everything in, but write it all down and prioritise it later on. Itineraries are great, but not for everyone. At least know the must-do’s for the trip, so you can budget to be in the right place for the right time.

You will find a whole new world of information from Google, Facebook, Instagram, WikiCamps, YouTube, and various blogs. There are a lot of apps, books, maps and resources out there. Visit information centres whenever you enter a new town or region too.

A simple Word document works fantastically for any information you might read or find useful. You can then read it throughout the trip to determine what you want to do.

Transport and Housing

Consider what you travel in and where you’ll stay a capital expense before heading off. From people in tents, whizbangs, and station wagons, to campers, caravans, buses, and motorhomes – you can travel around Australia in all of them. A full-size caravan, for example, can offer the simplicity of setup and space for a school-aged family of 5.

However, if you’re travelling in a 4WD and visiting somewhere popular (especially in peak season), you need to sort your accommodation options ASAP. Find out what needs booking, research where the best places are, and book them in! Some parks are booked out up to three months in advance!

Your choice of where to stay each night is pivotal to having an amazing trip away. Some of the best camping destinations in the world are in Australia, but you need to find them! Sometimes, you’ll stumble across them – but more often than not it takes prior research and local knowledge!

Your choice of where to stay each night is pivotal to having an amazing trip away. Image: The Todoing Family

How Fast and Frequently Will You Move?

Firstly, a spreadsheet works extremely well for planning this sort of thing. You can also note down each location, mark whether it needs to be booked, when you’ve booked it, where you’re likely to find fuel and water, and where you’ll drive to and from each day. Note down where you will stock up on food, what needs doing before you leave, what needs packing, and anything else that’s relevant to you.

Sometimes, a spreadsheet will also reveal massive days of driving – this allows time to make changes. For example, if you dedicate one year to a full lap of Australia, try moving every two to three days on average. With more time, you could attempt moving every four to five days. Sometimes an overnighter is necessary, or two nights somewhere instead of one. Each location feels or needs its own time sometimes! Think about your setup, pack up, and time for the lap – then work out how often you should be moving around.

Don’t Cram!

You won’t be able to do everything you first list down, and you will have to cull a few things. Make a habit of having a list of things you want to do and working your way down the list at each location.

Yes, you can do a lap of Australia in three months – but there’s something in seeing more of less and coming back another time, as opposed to only catching a glimpse of every part of Australia.

  Have a list of things you want to do and work your way down the list at each location. Image: The Todoing Family

There’s something in seeing more of less, as opposed to only seeing a glimpse of everything. Image: Aaron Schubert

Stock Up and Pack

Once you’re confident about where you are going, what you’re doing, and you’ve booked your leave, you can start to get ready. Buy long-lasting food in the months leading up to your trip to save money – look out for specials, and buy what you need. The more gradual your preparation, the better your chances are of doing it well!

Ensure everything you want to take fits properly in your 4WD, and that you aren’t overloaded!

Have a good think about aligning what you take to the nature of the locations you are going to. For example: if there are complete fire bans, taking a heap of cooking gear for over the fire isn’t a good idea. On the other hand, if you’re due to spend lots of time at the beach, perhaps a kayak or paddleboard would be worth taking.

Trial Runs

If you haven’t done much camping before, smaller trips beforehand are the best way to work out what’s good and what isn’t. Take a notepad every time you travel and make a note of things that can be improved or replaced. It’s an ongoing process – so the more you practice, the better you get at it.

No matter how good your planning is, you won’t get everything right. Some campsites you pick might not live up to their reputation, some drives will take far longer than you planned for, and your kids might decide they’ve had enough of driving for the day sooner than you hoped or predicted! That’s okay – you can’t control these things, so you need enough flexibility in your plans to adapt as things change.

A shorter trip will help prepare you for the bigger one! Image: Aaron Schubert

Get Out There!

Whether you are heading away for a week or 10, these are the basics of planning a long trip – no matter your time frame. Some thorough planning will make a world of difference to your trip. Aside from that, it provides the motivation and something to look forward to as the days tick over in the lead-up to your departure date!

Do you have any great planning tips for a longer adventure? 

The post Planning a Long 4WD, Caravan, or Camping Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Sometimes, the excitement of going camping can be almost as intense as the trip itself. Part of that is packing all your gear into the car in preparation for a safe and enjoyable trip. Whatever your preferred outdoor activity is, a list could very useful. How many times have you forgotten something in the middle of nowhere, and it’s a bit late to get another one?

Writing a checklist gives you that peace of mind that you’ve properly prepared for your trip.

Planning and Preparation

Caravanning

Your destination determines what you list and pack, and the spares you take. Camping in a remote location would require a different kit to what would be in a park close to a town and with access to supplies. Pre-planning and listing items for both scenarios are wise processes.

Prior to caravanning, remember:

• Manual brake: off
• Water pump: off (plug taken out)
• Inside taps: down
• All doors and drawers: secure
• Windows and hatches: closed
• Fridge setting: correct
• Gas bottles: off and secure
• All 240-volt power cables disconnected
• Awning: secure
• Pop-top roof locks: down
• Radio and TV antenna: down
• Stabilizers and wheel braces: removed
• Air conditioner covers: on/off
• Safety chains and stabiliser: connected and secure
• Lights: working
• Water tank valves: shut
• Wheel chocks and jockey wheel: stowed
• The wife and kids: in the car

Hiking and Camping

For hiking, backpack weight is extremely important – so list your days, proposed meals, maybe an extra day’s worth of food (to be safe), snacks, clothes, and a compass.

Space is also very important on a camping trip, so first list the tent, fly, and ground sheet. Check that you haven’t lost any pegs, your torches are operating, and you have spare batteries. Ensure the gas bottle or canisters are full, don’t forget new mantles for your gas light and, as above, plan your meals ahead. It’ll make life easier.

Another suggestion is to jot down every time you run low on an item in the camp kit, so you know to replenish it before you head off next time.

Fill Your Gas Bottle

Don’t wait to arrive at the campsite before realising you’ve run out of gas.

• Check your bottle is in date – it must be tested and restamped every ten years
• Top it up, even if it doesn’t feel it needs to be
• Determine whether there is enough gas for your trip, and if there is anywhere you can fill up en route
• If you’re going on an extended trip, or feeding an army that likes bacon and eggs three times a day – consider carrying a spare gas bottle!

Imagine setting up camp, dreaming of BBQ snags… then realising you’re out of gas!

Keep Your Cool

Keeping perishable food fresh and drinks cold requires the right gear to do the job. From the humble but robust ice boxes through to the many 12-volt fridges on the market – buy the best you can afford, as it will be more effective and last many years.

For those with a fridge, cool it down by turning it on the weekend before you’re due to head away.

• Cooling your fridge first using 240-volt (e.g. in a shed) will ensure all your food stays cold on the first day of your travels
• If it’s already cool, the fridge won’t have to work so hard from the car battery
• Turning your fridge on early will allow the chance to ensure it’s working properly. Don’t forget to test it in the car too!
• Freeze any meat you have in preparation too. Frozen meat will last longer, and it will help keep the fridge cold for the first few days – which will use less power too!
• For more tips on getting the most out of your camping fridge, read here

Check Your Tent

OK – this one requires a bit more effort! Your tent or camper trailer is probably the most important to check.

The last thing you want is to arrive at camp only to find you have a mouldy tent, or no pegs and poles!

Drag your tent out of the shed, set it up in the backyard, and give it a good once-over:

• Ensure all componentry is there
• Ensure the tent isn’t mouldy or brittle
• Check for holes and unravelled stitching
• Check for broken poles and bent pegs
• Remind yourself how to pitch the tent… so you don’t look like a turkey at the campground!

Test Your Air Mattress or Sleeping Mat

Ensure your mat and sleeping bag are warm enough. A tarp with associated pegs, poles, and guy ropes is also suggested for any inclement weather – this allows plenty of space to cook, read, and relax in the dry. If you have roof racks on your vehicle too, consider using them as a tie-down point for one side of the tarp.

If you use an air mattress or self-inflating mat, check it a few days before your trip. Pump it up, put some weight on it, and allow it to sit out overnight. You don’t want to find out the hard way that it has a leak!

• Check for leaks early, so you have the chance to fix or replace the mattress. If there is one, repair it or buy a new one.
• Allow the foam in your self-inflating mattress to expand properly. This may take a few days if it has been rolled up for a while!

If you discovered this after you set up camp…you’re not going to have a very enjoyable trip, that’s for sure!

Charge or Purchase Batteries

Most adventurers have left for their trip at least once without charging the electric lantern, or buying new batteries for the kids’ torches!

Batteries run flat while sitting around in the shed, so check all your battery-powered gear.

• Rechargeable batteries may need a whole week of charging to bring them back to life. Overnight tends not to be long enough for a battery lantern or bed pump.
• Make sure all your battery-operated devices work
• Check if old batteries have leaked inside the device
• Always take a spare set of batteries!

Check Your Vehicle

For extended trips, ensure your vehicle has:

• Engine oil
• Radiator fluid
• A basic toolset
• A means to inflate your tyre – trust me, it is possible to get two flats in one weekend!

Check your tyre pressure (including the spare), consider bringing a jerry can of fuel, and even take your vehicle to have a basic service. You never know what might be discovered!

Supplies and Equipment

Cookware and Appliances

The Companion 2-burner stove puts out impressive heat, while camp ovens are brilliant on a campfire – and there are dozens of recipes out there on camp cooking. A fridge or icebox and a plastic storage container should both adequately hold your food and prevent animals from invading.

In National Parks, tables and BBQs are often already provided. For other areas, pack a camp table or perhaps a second plastic box to act as one. A tub to wash up in is also essential.

A small selection of cooking pots, a frypan, durable plates, and cutlery is usually all one requires, with a billy, spoon, and knife the very basics of cooking. That said, a wok can be extremely useful in a camp cooking kit too.

Lighting

The invention of LED lighting is a camper’s dream! Compact, low power-consumption, and many shapes and sizes to suit any application – there is so much available. A good headlamp provides adequate hands-free lighting for those inevitable campsite chores after sundown.

Water

Water is important for drinking, cooking, or perhaps extinguishing a fire. One should never be without a good supply of water in the bush.

How much water you need to carry will depend on what is available at your campsite, both in quantity and quality. The real issue is how to carry it. Some options are:

• 20-litre plastic drums (types that don’t leave a plastic-like taste!)
• Water tanks fitted to your vehicle (an expensive option)
• 10-litre Watercells, or spring water casks available from the supermarket (the taps from these can be easily removed, and the bladders refilled)

Toiletries

Aside from a portable toilet, for those roughing it remote – a toothbrush, floss, and multi-purpose wash are the often the most necessary hygiene items. Toilet paper can be awkward to pack – so for the lightweight travellers, a pocket-sized toilet or simply the sublime strength of newspaper often handles rear-end activities!

Odds and Ends

Sometimes, it’s necessary to have a separate box just for these!

Think a hatchet, lighter, spare cord, mosquito coils, sunscreen, repellent, tinder, and a rag or two. These items are usually easy to pick up on the way to your destination too.

Matches are essential too – and be sure to check out Fire Safety and Preparation for Camping for all the tips on creating and maintaining a safe campfire!

Leisure Items

These include books, music, balls or toys, cards, hiking shoes, campfire stories, and a comfortable camp chair.

Coffee makers are a luxury – but an indulgence worth endorsing! Check out those by AeroPress and Wacaco for your next cuppa at the campsite.

Don’t get halfway to your destination and realise that you’ve left something at home – download the Snowys Checklist here.

The post Camping Checklists: The Answer to Remembering Everything appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The LCC27 is a new gas cylinder connection, replacing the existing Type 21 (or POL) fitting on common 4-kilogram and 9-kilogram LPG gas cylinders for BBQs and leisure gas appliances. This new fitting has an impact on both the cylinder valve and gas hose fittings.

Why do we need it?

POL gas fittings have always posed a risk of gas leaks, where:

• A safe connection was entirely dependent on the user tightening the connection adequately,
• The thread was counterintuitive, in that it tightened in the opposite direction to most other threaded connections used in everyday life, and
• Gas could flow whenever the valve was opened, regardless of whether an appliance was attached.

All these things increased the risk of a poor connection, resulting in a gas leak.

Credit: Gasmate

What does the new fitting offer?

The LCC27 fitting increases safety, is much easier to use, and features:

• An integrated ‘check-valve’ that does not allow gas to flow when the valve is opened, unless an appliance is securely attached to the cylinder,
• A gas seal achieved at the connection point prior to the check-valve being opened by the fitting of the appliance, irrespective of how tightly the ‘nut’ has been fastened by the user,
• An intuitive and visible external right-handed ACME thread, far easier to connect and tighten with a large plastic ‘nut’, and
• A large plastic ‘nut’ designed to soften in the event of a fire at or near the cylinder. This allows the appliance fitting to eject, in turn triggering the check-valve to stop gas flow.

Which LPG cylinders have the new LCC27 fitting?

This change impacts the 9kg and 4-4.5kg cylinders that currently have a POL valve connection. Camping cylinders with upright 3/8 BSP fitting and large 45kg domestic cylinders are not impacted. This change is not applicable to Natural Gas or small disposable Butane canisters.

For more information on gas cylinder types and fittings, see here.

When will the change to LCC27 valves occur?

There has been a staged approach to this change, which negates the need to update everything straight away.

From April 1, 2021, gas cylinder suppliers began fitting the LCC27 valve to new LPG cylinders – but by October 1, 2021, it became mandatory. New LPG cylinders with the POL valve could no longer be sold, but cylinders that were in circulation could retain the POL fitting until their re-test date was reached. At this point, as part of the re-test process, they are required to have the LCC27 valve fitted.

It was also as of October 1, 2021, that manufacturers could start fitting the LCC27 fitting to new gas appliances and hoses at the time of manufacture; this became mandatory by April 1, 2022. New appliances in circulation with the POL fitting could and still can be sold, compatible with cylinders fitted with the LCC27 valve.

What does it mean for POL appliances and hoses?

If you have an appliance and cylinder with POL fittings, you can continue to use it as normal until your cylinder reaches its 10-year testing date, at which point it will need to be fitted with a new LCC27 valve. The LCC27 valve is backwards-compatible, so you can continue to use the POL fitting on your appliance.

New appliances with the LCC27 fitting, however, will not connect to a cylinder with a POL valve. This is important to note if you utilise an exchange program for your cylinders, as there may be a mixture of valves available for swap until they have all surpassed their 10-year re-testing requirements.

Credit: Gasmate

There is likely to be a mixture of LCC27 and POL valves available at cylinder exchange services for years to come – so if you have an appliance with the new LCC27 fitting, make sure you swap your cylinder for one with the LCC27 valve.

If your POL fitting is the type with a rubber ‘nose’ on the end, check to ensure it doesn’t get left behind in the LCC27 valve when the hose is removed. This can jam the valve and render your POL hose fitting useless the next time you wish to use it.

Theoretically, flexible gas hoses should be replaced every 10 years, before they start to crack and leak. If yours is older than this, it’s a good time to switch over to the new LCC27 fitting.

Can adaptors be used with the LCC27 valve?

Any adapter added into the system is a potential leakage point, so it’s recommended to avoid the use of them where possible. Further to this, for gas installations in caravans, campers, and motorhomes covered by the standard AS/NZS 5601, adaptors are specifically prohibited.

Portable recreational appliances that are attached directly to a cylinder, i.e. camp stoves and BBQs, are not covered by this standard, but the use of adaptors is still a bit of a grey area.

It is commonly stated that adaptors must not be used to connect an appliance with a new LCC27 connection to a cylinder with a POL valve. The primary concern here is that the change of thread direction on the LCC27 valve means that tightening one side of the adaptor could potentially result in the loosening of the other side.

An adaptor will work to connect a small appliance with a 3/8 BSP fitting to the new LCC27 valve via a POL – 3/8 LH BSP adaptor… but consider that once you have attached the adaptor to the LCC27 valve, you have opened the check valve and gas will flow anytime the valve is opened. For this reason, it’s recommended to remove the adaptor for transport.

On the flip side, you could also connect a large appliance with an LCC27 hose to a small camping cylinder via a 3/8 LH BSP – POL adaptor, if one becomes available – but it’s not recommended. Firstly, it introduces another potential leak point, and secondly, a small cylinder may struggle to supply enough gas on account of something called ‘gas evaporation rate limitation’. There’s a little more information on that in this article [https://www.snowys.com.au/blog/understanding-gas-for-camping-caravan-appliances/].

Replacement Hoses for LCC27 Valve

Replacement hoses are and will be available; they fall within the same timeframes mentioned above regarding the introduction of the LCC27 fitting on appliances.

Gas Cylinder Re-fills with the LCC27 Gas Valve

There is no change here, apart from the fitting used by gas re-fillers in the decanting process. Gas cylinders with the POL valve that are still in date can be refilled.

Caravans and the LCC27 Gas Valve

Caravans manufactured after April 1, 2022, are required to have the LCC27 fitting. Older caravans should, in theory, have their flexible hoses replaced every 10 years – so the next time you take your caravan to a service centre, it’s worth having the hoses and fittings changed over at the same time. Keep in mind that you’ll also need to change your gas cylinders when you do this… so maybe make sure they are as good as empty first.

More Information

Gas Energy Australia is the national peak body encompassing Australia’s leading gas providers, and is a good reference for rules and regulations on LPG gas. Further to this, most gas providers and state regulatory bodies provide information specific to your location.

There are many good reasons for switching your gas appliances over to the LCC27 fitting, but safety and ease of use are the most significant. Next time you need to re-fill your cylinder, or replace a gas fitting on your leisure gas appliance, consider changing your entire system over to the LCC27 gas fitting.

We’ve discussed gas cooking at the campsite in more detail on the Snowys Camping Show:

A very big thank you to Ben Greeneklee who, with over 20 years of experience in gas appliance manufacturing and testing, assisted with the technical accuracy of the information in this article.

Have you switched to the new gas fitting?

The post POL & LCC27 Gas Fittings: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, in the last couple of years, the approach to travelling locally has shifted more than I would have expected – and it’s affecting a lot of people. In this post, we look at what has changed across local travel, camping, and 4WDing – and how you can work around it.

Places Are Far Busier!

With the country beginning to open again, and so many Australians unable to travel overseas for their regular holidays, local travel has exploded like I’ve never seen before. Places that were “busy” are now completely insane in peak season – and you can expect locating a quiet camp site away from others to be far more difficult.

We headed up north when it was hot, and found there were far less people around.

This applies to attractions during the day, too. Almost everywhere you travel now is much like doing so during the school holidays. A busier location isn’t necessarily a terrible thing (as long as everyone does the right thing), but just be mentally prepared for more people! That said, doing so can put a lot of stress on those attempting to serve customers after their town has increased in population to five times its usual size – so be calm, kind, and flexible!

In peak season, Barn Hill Station was full by 2:00pm everyday.

Prices and Lead Times – For Everything!

With a higher interest in camping, caravanning, or RV-ing, the demand for accommodation on wheels has skyrocketed. This, in conjunction with significant shipping delays and a general surge in prices for virtually everything, has resulted in the price of caravans, camper trailers, and RVs rising rapidly – with lead times blowing out like you wouldn’t believe. A number of caravan manufacturers are quoting 18 – 24 months of lead time from the day you put in an order which, in this climate, is a long time.

This results in flow-on effects such as supply issues for parts to build vehicles, with similar wait-times for several new 4WDs (or a higher price for a second-hand unit). I’ve never seen 4WDs as expensive as what they are today, and it’s down to the demand sitting much higher than it used to.

What used to be a $20,000 4WD is now selling for between $30,000-$35,000, and even the vehicle’s market value by insurance companies has increased considerably. If you are thinking about selling, it’s a good time to do so – but your replacement will be significantly more expensive.

Book Further in Advance

We’ve been doing long weekend camping trips around Perth for longer than I can remember, and would normally manage to book a site about a month or two prior to our departure. These days though, if you haven’t booked a spot at least three or four months out, you’ll struggle to land one.

This can present a challenging situation, as a lot of sites don’t allow bookings. That means it’s often a race to beat the rest of Perth there, prior to the long weekend. Ensure you have a Plan B – because there’s nothing worse than driving a couple of hours to a camp site to find no room, and nowhere else to go.

Book in advance, and enjoy some amazing locations.

We spent several hours scouring the internet about a month before the last long weekend, and seriously struggled to find anywhere to book. Eventually, we found a lovely HipCamp – much further away from Perth than we wanted, but our only alternative. Gone are the days where you could book a weekend away in a National Park just a few weeks out – everywhere surrounding Perth is booked out now, for months on end!

Pemberton Hipcamp

The competition for booking camp sites has skyrocketed too, and this particularly relates to the Department of Biodiversity Conservation and Attractions (DBCA) sites. These sites become available 180 days prior to your arrival date, and open at one second past midnight each day. We’ve literally woken up at midnight to secure a spot multiple times over the last couple of years – and even then have missed out a number of times, with other family members or friends experiencing the same outcome.

If you want to stay at the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation, and Attractions (DBCA) site in Exmouth, be prepared to book at midnight!

Booking caravan parks in popular areas should realistically be done at least 8-12 months in advance. Any later, and you’ll miss that annual trip away.

Booking into a caravan park is common to enable a sense of security.

Camps and Accommodation are More Expensive

Supply and Demand is a funny thing – and it can quickly spiral out of control. National Park sites are locked in, and some caravan parks have done the right thing – but I’ve seen a number of organisations considerably increase their prices because they know someone will pay it.  

It gets worse though – accommodation costs. We’d do a weekend away down south, once a year, and would usually find a place comfortable enough without it costing a fortune. Nowadays, not a lot down south is as cheap – prices have simply gone through the roof.

James Price Point is a free camp, always with lots of room.

So…How Has Local Travel Changed Our Favourite Spots?

For the most part – aside from everything camping-related getting much more of a workout – our favourite spots haven’t changed. Yes, they are busier – but we either accept it or find somewhere else that is further away, or more hidden.

Another option is to stay home and begin preparing for larger, longer trips…because sometimes, it’s just not worth the energy to find a campsite without a booking!

It saddens me to see more rubbish and damage done to places that were once quiet and well-looked after. Campers and visitors need to start taking greater care, or we’ll have a far greater problem in the future. Take your rubbish with you, leave an area pristine – and just do the right thing.

Dealing With the Changes

We can’t change what has happened – but we can learn to live with it and hope that things continue in the same trajectory, from overseas travel opening up to events and happenings returning to a previous normal.

That said, there are several things we can do to both enjoy the change and make it easier to embrace.

Consider the Fringe Seasons

Every location in Australia has its ‘peak’ season. Usually, it’s school holidays or when the weather is best. For example, Exmouth in Western Australia is hugely busy from June to September, as the weather is arguably more beautiful at this time than any other.

To avoid some of the crowds, consider travelling during a fringe season when it’s less popular. This may be more difficult if you have school-aged children, but it could even be wise to head in the opposite direction to others on weekends.

Places such as Bullara Station are often very busy.

We spent some of January around Horrocks and Kalbarri and, whilst we’d normally head south for the cooler weather, it was a better option to avoid some of the crowds.

On the main beach of Horrocks.

Be Prepared to Go More Remote

I like to think of this tip as an opportunity to find places that are both further away and more quiet. Instead of heading to locations that are hammered every year, try navigating further away to the smaller towns visited by less people.

We have a trip to the Pilbara coming up in a couple of weeks that we’ve not booked a single night for. This is because we know it will be quieter, and camping in the bush is far less competitive than amongst the caravan parks within bigger towns.

We love finding unique campsites, like Lake Preston Lime.

Appreciate the Amazing Places You Have

With all of this happening, and more and more people moving to local travel, camping, and 4WDing – it’s a good time to stand back and think about what we have access too. Appreciate it a little more!

We have some of the best camping opportunities in the world. The fact that we can jump in our car on a Friday afternoon and enjoy an incredible weekend away with friends and family, with such ease, is something we should all be very grateful for.

Appreciate the freedom we have. With everyone out and about, Australian businesses are also getting a good workout! We really do live in the lucky country – and it’s not until things change that we suddenly have a shift in perspective ourselves.

Be Flexible

Above all!

You will arrive at full car parks, miss out on amazing campsites after someone books half a second before you, and see more people out and about than ever before.

That aside – just go with the flow. We live in a huge country, home to plenty of places to explore. You may just need to venture off the beaten track a little…

Expect to see full carparks!

It was amazing to camp at Coronation Beach!

How has local travel changed for you?

The post Local Travel: How Has it Changed Our Favourite Spots? appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We have loved our Tvan for 12 years, and it has never let us down. However, it was time for us to sell and make the change to something new.

The range of choice has certainly increased over those years. We asked our friends for advice and developed our top six priorities. This article is mostly geared to caravans/campers but can be applied regardless of what sort of setup best suits you.

We looked after our Tvan, and it fetched a good price when we sold it.

1. Budget

Like with any significant expense you need to lock down how much money you are prepared to spend. Van prices fluctuate from thousands to hundreds of thousands, depending on how luxurious you want to go. Even tents these days can start below one hundred dollars and climb into the thousands.

Do your sums before you start to look, adjust them if you need to, and then stick with your plan so the possibilities become realities. Without the right money you are stymied. 

Unless you are certain about what you want, consider hiring before buying. Caravans are a long term investment. If you think you’ll still be travelling in five or ten years, then consider whether you will have the health, fitness, and strength to do what’s necessary to set up, and tailor your purchase accordingly. 

Think resale value – quality sells quickly! Even 12 years on our Tvan fetched a good price which certainly helped the new purchase.  You should also research any on-road costs that may apply in your state or territory, as well as rego – these also need to be factored into your budget.

Once you’re clear on how much you’ve got to spend you’ll know if you’re after a second-hand or new van. Bear in mind that your towing vehicle also needs consideration – and may also need to be upgraded.

Decide on the style of travel you want to do, and set a clear budget.

2. Vehicle

Is your current vehicle sufficient for the type of caravan you want, or the style of travel you wish to do i.e. off-road? Decide where you want to go.

This determines your tow vehicle, the maximum size and weight of your camper, and the type of suspension you require.

Most salesmen don’t care about your tow vehicle, they focus on van attributes, comfort, and ultimately, the sale.

Vehicle specifications are your responsibility and you may need to rethink your budget to factor the cost of a vehicle upgrade into the overall expense. If your car can’t get there, the van won’t get anywhere on its own. You definitely don’t need a van with better clearance than the tug!

It’s important to know the Gross Combined Mass (GCM) of the vehicle and van. You’ll need your vehicle’s tow capacity and ball weight too. Check the owners’ manual and if in doubt ask. If you don’t understand, ask again. This article may also be helpful.

Does your current vehicle’s towing capacity allow for the weight and size of what you want to tow? Image: Aaron Schubert

How much stuff will you need to pack in the car? Do you need your van to have built-in storage or fridge slides? All of these things can add weight and should be accounted for.

If you can find a public weighbridge, pack the car for a holiday and get it weighed.  That’s a great starting point. A good rule of thumb is…

The van shouldn’t weigh more loaded than the car towing it!

Don’t forget to include everything you pack, the bull bar, snorkel, the fridge – loaded, even driver and passenger weight needs to be calculated.

If you’re serious about off-road then weight is everything! It’s easier on what you’re towing, easier on the car doing the towing, and easier for the driver too.

At the very least you’ll need a tow bar but when adding in extra wiring, a rear camera, towing mirrors, possibly a weight-distribution hitch, or airbag suspension to help keep the van level, your original budget is taking a hit before you’ve left home!

Appropriate weight distribution is also important. Image: Aaron Schubert

3. Features

Once your car is sorted, you need to determine what sort of traveller you are? Ask yourself:

• How long will you be away?
• Do you prefer to go it slowly, or move on every couple of days?
• Do you like to free camp or stay in caravan parks?
• How do you plan to shower?
• Do you need hot water?
• What about a toilet?
• Will you mostly be driving on sealed roads, gravel roads, or graded routes?
• Will you be going into national parks or fully off-road and remote locations?

Consider the time spent setting up and taking down – this has to be done every time you establish camp – rain, hail, or shine. How fiddly is it? Does it take a few minutes, or more like an hour?

Do you want a heater, air-conditioning, a washing machine, room for the kids, pet spaces, cooking inside or out, mains power, solar, or a generator, TV or radio, BBQ or kitchen? How about water storage, tank maintenance, and greywater? Do you need a safe spot for gas cylinders and/or jerry cans?

The list is endless, but these are all things that should be considered before you make your purchase. Only you know your priorities, and you may need to compromise, so make sure you’re clear on what you need versus what you want.

Some caravans allow you to cook inside, others have pull-out kitchens, or you could create your own external setup. Image: Companion

4. New or second-hand?

Knowing what to look for is important when buying new, but even more so when buying second-hand.

Join camping social media groups, including owners’ groups. Current owners know the product best – the good, the bad, the hacks, and the improvements.

If you are buying second-hand from a member of the group, search their name and see if they’ve raised any issues that would make you wary to buy their unit. Search for posts on items you are worried about, read comments, and check out the photos.  

Caravan/camping expos are great for seeing displays of new models. They provide the opportunity to be exposed to a lot of businesses in one place, and it’s much easier to remember what you liked when you can compare models close together. Get inside the caravan, sit down, try the bed, and stand in the kitchen – is it a good height for you/the cook?

Take a notebook and your own photos. Listen to the company rep, and their answers to questions others are asking, not just yours. 

Research the caravan manufacturer – what is their reputation like? Are they known for excellent build quality, after-sales support, and warranty? Even if the second-hand van you are looking at is out of warranty, it is still a valuable representation of a company’s level of integrity.

Are there parts that have a history of breaking down? Do they matter to you and if so, do you have the skills to fix them? 

Make sure you do your research before committing to any purchase!

Inside and out, different things suit different people. 

Less fancy, less to go wrong! But a few bells and whistles mean you can enjoy a certain level of comfort, so don’t be too tight with your list.

Buy fit for YOUR purpose and you can’t go wrong. 

When you find a van you think might be ‘the one’, check your notes, and go inspect it. 

Ask a knowledgeable friend to join you and look underneath before you are beguiled by the features inside. It’s easy to be distracted by the bling and shiny stuff!

If second-hand, make sure you check for signs of weakness:

• Climb underneath to look for cracks and rust in the chassis/underside of the base – take a torch or headlamp to light your way
• Is the axle in good condition?
• Check for plumbing leaks and issues, including electrical connections/routing for worn cabling. You’d be surprised how many ‘off-road’ campers have little protection, even leaving exposed pipes and dangling wires!
• Are there any signs of rot? Check for leaks and mould – don’t forget under the sink, inside the cupboards, and underneath the mattress
• Inside and out, look for kinks in hoses
• Wear on door seals
• Test latches and dust in hatches

Don’t get hung up on upholstery wear and tear, sit down to see how comfortable it is. Is there room for your legs under the table? 

Consider the level of storage, are you a minimalist or pack your whole house and wardrobe?

Is there enough solar/battery to suit your needs if camping off-grid or during wet weather?  Is the inverter able to run a power-hungry toaster, or safely charge the laptop? 

Will you need another battery, a generator, or more solar panels?

If you want a self-sufficient setup, you’ll need to factor in additional sources of power. Image: Hard Korr

5. Aftersales service and warranty

A reliable van with decent after-sales support can save you hours and keep you on the road where you really want to be!

Look into ‘Build Quality Assurance’ – the industry is booming right now and with most van/camper orders going through the roof, control can slip – even with the highly respected brands. 

If thousands of build complaints actually made it to the ACCC last year, then you can bet many more made it to manufacturers.

Check out industry forums and Google reviews. If the build and service departments are good, some buyers write about it. However, if it’s bad, you can bet everyone comes out of the woodwork to share.  If you want to be sure ask the question upfront and be discerning over the response.

In addition to aftersales service, make sure you have suitable insurance. Image: Aaron Schubert

It may seem obvious but you won’t always be at home when you need something replaced or repaired. Get to know the staff you will be dealing with, ask their advice, be courteous, and build a relationship. It’s not how it should be, but it’s so much easier to follow up with a friendly client than a disgruntled stranger.

An emergency response phone number is invaluable. With limited internet across the outback, having access to a direct line is paramount for ‘real’ off-road users. 

Equally important is the confidence of a timely callback, and that knowledgeable staff are available to directly answer your enquiry and some resolution to the issue.  There’s nothing more frustrating than waiting for someone to call when your battery has died, or the water won’t heat, or worse!

Some repairs and maintenance you will be able to do yourself. Image: Aaron Schubert

6. Courses and storage

Do you know how to tow? Can your partner or travel buddy tow as well? There are courses available and before taking off on your first trip you should have acquired some confidence behind the wheel. The same applies to 4WDing – do you need any training? 

Your experience in this area may not directly affect how to buy a caravan, but it should be considered so you can have a safe and enjoyable trip.

My husband tore the ligaments in his ankle on the Gibb River Road and I had to take on all the driving and setting up of our van. My story is not unique. 

Tow courses are a good budget list item. Long straight access or large turning spots are few and far between. Courses include what to look out for, vehicle setup, towing, and reversing. 

Have you got a suitable space in your garage or driveway to store your van between trips? Image: Xan Holyoak

Before you commit to any purchase, you should think about where you’ll store your caravan or camper between trips. These things are an investment and should be protected from the elements to prevent wear, tear, and damage.

Do you intend to store it in your garage or under a carport? Is the van too long or high? Do you have enough space and clearance in the shed? Or, do you need to purchase a cover and create a designated area offset from the driveway? Is there enough room to maneuver into the tight spot up the back corner?

Some caravan owners pay for a third party storage facility. If this is your only viable option, then the cost of such should be factored into your budget.

All of these points need to be considered before you shell out your hard-earned cash! Take your time before committing and you will appreciate a smart purchase much more than a rushed one.

WARNING: We found an amazing deal but it seemed too good to be true. Manufacturers with pride in their product will often help answer questions, even on a second-hand purchase. We were advised to steer clear of the ‘amazing deal’ as the van had previously been written off!  

Are you buying a caravan?

The post How to Buy a Caravan appeared first on Snowys Blog.

You might use your vehicle primarily for the weekly runaround and then take off somewhere during the school holidays. Or, perhaps you’re a serious 4WDer with all the gear, and are a member of the local 4×4 club? If that’s you, it’s likely you’ve got insurance that covers your rig, but have you double checked the fine print? You see here’s the thing – promises and packages abound, and all of them have inclusions and exclusions.

Many novice off-roaders overlook appropriate cover thinking that their basic roadside assistance and standard vehicle insurance is adequate. The brutal truth is that it’s useless when you are off-road and sometimes even experienced adventurers can get caught out. Unfortunately, whether you’re a seasoned off-roader, or a newbie giving it a crack, not having suitable cover can be a very costly mistake!

I don’t have the answer to what is the best policy as it’s an ever-changing market, however, I do know many of the questions to ask and the importance of asking them.

Ensure everyone understands you’re cover and has your insurance details.

If your policy says ‘remote access recovery’, it doesn’t always mean you’re covered

For starters ‘remote access recovery’ may mean something completely different to your insurer than it does to you. Read the fine print, but more importantly, ask questions up front.

• Put specific scenarios to the broker or customer service operator. Maybe pick a spot on the map:
  • What if I got stuck here?
  • What if my engine failed here?
  • What if I crashed here?
  • What if I became too sick to travel out of here?

If they don’t know the answer, escalate the call till you get someone who does.

It will also pay to check whether your satellite phone can call 1300 or 1800 phone numbers, as not all can. Depending on where you’re going, and the nature of your trip, it might be safest to consider installing a UHF radio, or taking an emergency device with you.

Check if there is a 24 hour or weekend contact number. Don’t get caught with Monday to Friday business hours, or internet only support. Access can be unreliable and there is a strong chance you may be caught out on a weekend

If your car is still under a manufacturer’s warranty:

• What stipulations apply so you don’t unintentionally void that warranty?
• Does the cover apply only for the first 12 months or full extended warranty period?
• What recovery options does it include? Only highways, or remote areas and unsealed roads as well?

Who’s responsible for making bookings with tow companies and who makes the calls to get it started?

Your insurance company has a different definition of off-road than you

The cost of a breakdown out bush and bringing a vehicle to a repair centre can be thousands of dollars.

• Is there a condition that stipulates towing only provided if accessible by a 2WD vehicle in all weather conditions?
• What is the definition of accessible by 2WD?
• Does the tow include your camper or trailer?

While you’re at it, what’s the company’s definition of ‘off road’? Ask for the details, especially if you have a specific trip in mind.

• Gazetted tracks only?
• Is beach driving covered?
• How about muddy roads?

Also ask about your after-market accessories – snorkel, winch, radio?

• Are after-market accessories automatically included or do they need to be detailed and specified separately?
• What if something happens to your vehicle while using your recovery gear?
• Are injuries covered?
• Theft?

What’s the company’s definition of ‘off road’?

I want to upgrade my insurance policy, can I?

What if you’re planning on going into a remote area like the Simpson, or the Old Telegraph Track for a few weeks, and want to be covered but don’t need that same level of insurance for a whole 12 months?

• Is there an option to temporarily top up my cover? Do I need to?
• What different excess payments are available?
• What sets premium recovery coverage apart from company offerings, and are the additional features necessary for your needs?

Can I top up my cover if I’m going into a remote area?

Membership benefits and responsibilities

Reciprocal rights between motoring clubs – RACV, NRMA, RAA, RACQ, AANT, RAC, and RACT, mean you’re covered by your home state/territory provider.

• Do you know if your extras cover or care package applies to the 4WD, or a specific member?
• If it’s with the member, do they have to be with you if you need to call?
• Is your retrieval package restricted to pay only to transport your vehicle from where it is stranded to the nearest bitumen? If so:
  • Who’s responsible for the rest of the trip to the repairer?
  • Is this covered by a roadside package or a third-party provider?
  • Does the tow company have to provide separate invoices?
  • Is there a weight limit to what can be towed?  Some only cover up to 2000kg
  • Is your caravan or trailer included in the tow? In many cases this is standard, however, check it’s covered by the basic excess if this is the nature of your travel setup

Is your retrieval package restricted to transport your vehicle to the nearest bitumen?

Supportive service and entitlements

Waiting for a tow can sometimes mean you are stranded for a long time, especially if you are somewhere remote. You will find it much less frustrating if you already know the answers to these questions.

• What support do you get if you break down or are stranded
  • A replacement vehicle, accommodation, fuel, food allowances, and/or other incidental costs?
• Who is responsible for making bookings with tow companies and motels, etc?
  • Will you have to pay upfront and apply for a refund?
• What restrictions are there on allowances covered? There might be only one price point accommodation option
  • Will you be out of pocket if it’s too high?
  • Is there a time limit if you must wait for parts or a repairer?

Is the van or trailer tow included? 

If I have a deadline will you deliver?

• How about getting home and the car’s not ready?
• Is there a timeframe for the camper to be freighted?
• Will it be a speedy delivery of my clothes, food, and belongings packed inside, or do I need to get them out?

Keep notes and share the details

• Ensure you and your travelling partners understand your cover, and have your insurance details
• Jot the numbers down so if something happens it’s one less stress for whoever must deal with it
• Confirm who has the authority to make a claim – do you need anyone additional listed?

Make yourself comfortable when you are waiting for a tow.

Don’t be fooled

Fancy advertising images and clever testimonials are the devil, not the detail!

Don’t be caught out when it matters most. Do your research, read the fine print, and ask as many questions as you need so you can be insured with confidence. Many major companies offer recovery cover, and prices vary greatly! Get the policy you need for what you’ve got and where you’re going.

Have you ever been caught out? What cover do you recommend?

The post 4WD Insurance – Remote Breakdown & Recovery Cover appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We’ll try and make things as clear as we can in this article. Let’s first start with the gas, or as we commonly call it in Australia, LPG.

What is LPG?

LPG stands for Liquefied Petroleum Gas.

At a basic level, LPG is a flammable hydrocarbon fuel. It consists of a mixture of carbon and hydrogen atoms which, when placed under pressure at room temperature turns into liquid.

The gas we use for camp stoves, many home appliances, gas hot water systems and in vehicles is LPG, but the actual gas in LPG depends on the country you are in and its designated use. There are two gases that come under the LPG heading – propane and butane.

In Australia, the LPG that is used to top up your refillable bottle at your local hardware or camping store, or the gas in the 9kg cylinder swaps is always propane. Whereas in New Zealand, for example, this LPG could be propane, butane or a mix of these.

The LPG used for vehicles in Australia is known as AutoGas and can be propane or a mix of propane and butane.

LPG gas is made up of petroleum gases. Image: Elliot Mann

What is the difference between Propane and Butane?

This is all in the chemical makeup – Propane being C3H8 and Butane C4H10. Their formulas differ but they contain the same base elements of carbon and hydrogen.

The pressure at which these gasses become a liquid, or, their boiling point for a given temperature, is a key difference.

Propane remains a liquid either when under pressure or at temperatures less than -42°C, which means it still turns into a burnable gas when released from pressure in very cold environments. At room temperature (approximately 21°C) the pressure of propane gas is about 860kPa, which is why cylinders being filled with propane need to be made strong, hence their weight.

Butane is also a liquid when under pressure or at temperatures less than about -0.5°C which is much higher than propane and why many lightweight hiking stoves that run on butane struggle in alpine environments. However butane gas, or n-butane to be precise, has a pressure at room temperature (approximately 21°C) of about 215kPa which means the cylinders can be made much lighter, hence butane is typically preferred for hiking stoves.

You may have also heard of iso-butane, this is similar but has slightly different properties than the n-butane mentioned here.

Despite butane and propane being closely related in terms of their chemical makeup, the combustion characteristics i.e. how they burn is quite different. The good news is that most (not all) LPG appliances are certified to what is known as ‘Universal LPG” meaning they can be used with propane, butane or any mix of these.

LPG is liquid under pressure and becomes gas when released into the atmosphere.

Is LPG the same as natural gas?

No. Natural gas is methane and has a different chemical makeup (CH4) which can’t be used interchangeably with LPG in the same appliance unless the appliance has been converted to do so.

Natural gas appliances operate at much lower pressures than LPG (1.1kPa vs 2.75kPa), more natural gas is needed to produce the same amount of heat as LPG and it requires a different oxygen-to-fuel ratio for complete combustion.

Natural gas is also cryogenically turned into a liquid to become Liquid Natural Gas (LNG) primarily for transport reasons, in particular for bulk transport overseas.

What gas can my LPG appliance use?

LPG appliances are required by law to be clearly labelled for which type of gas they are designed to use.

The gas types are: Propane only, Butane only, Universal LPG (which is either Propane, Butane or a mix of these) and Natural Gas.

So, check the information on your appliance to identify the gas type it is designed for as it can be dangerous or even fatal to use the wrong gas.

You can’t use natural gas interchangeably with LPG appliances. Image: Oil & Gas Australia

What gas bottles can you use for your camping stove?

This is dependent on the gas appliance.

Most lightweight hiking stoves and lanterns are only designed to be used with disposable cylinders that have a resealable valve and thread, allowing the cylinder to be removed for transport.

Compact canister or cartridge appliances and ‘lunchbox’ style stoves should only be used with butane canisters (the ones that look like a regular aerosol can). These also have a resealing valve with a bayonet ‘click’ type fitting.

Then there is the larger LPG cylinders which come in many sizes from about 1.25kg through to the large 9kg which a majority of other LPG appliances are designed to be used with.

Which one you choose is dependent on how you will be using your appliances, the amount of gas you’ll need before a refill, and how you will transport it. While we are on the topic, it’s worth noting that gas cylinders should never be transported inside a vehicle, caravan or camper trailer unless they are in a certified gas cylinder compartment.

Episode 19 of the Snowys Camping Show Podcast dives into a bunch of tips on Managing & Carrying Gas for Camping.

There are a few different sizes of gas bottles available.

One last thing that’s worth mentioning, and this gets a little technical, is something called the maximum evaporation rate. As gas changes from liquid to gas, it uses energy which it gets in the form of heat from the cylinder itself, the LPG inside and the surrounding air. This is why a gas cylinder feels cool to touch after use.

What this means is that if you use a small 1.25kg cylinder on a large 5 burner BBQ, the cylinder will quickly cool down to a point that the LPG is no longer boiling inside and turning into gas. The gas pressure then diminishes to a point that affects the performance of the appliance.

How do you make sure you’re using the right gas cylinder connectors and fittings?

Firstly, let’s cover the most common gas fittings you’ll find on a gas bottle.

Many 1kg through to 4kg cylinders have a male 3/8″ Left-Handed thread that points directly up from the top of the bottle. This fitting is often called ‘Companion’ but is used by many brands.

The POL fitting (derived from the manufacturing company, Prest-O-Lite), is found on larger 4kg to 9kg cylinders. This is a female fitting and points out sideways from the bottle. Many male POL fittings have a rubber o-ring and should not be over tightened.

Larger bottles generally have POL while the smaller ones have 3/8 BSP fittings.

Lastly but less commonly nowadays is the Primus gas cylinder thread. This is a proprietary fitting by Primus that has an internal fitting that only allows gas to flow once the fitting is fully inserted into the cylinder.

An interesting thing to note is that the 3/8 and POL fittings are a left-hand thread. So, the lefty loosey – righty tighty rule needs to be reversed here.

Most larger format stoves and barbecues will have a male POL fitting on the supplied hose whereas a 2-3 burner camping stove will generally have a female 3/8” fitting.

Ideally, you should use a gas cylinder with the same connection as your appliance.

Then, just to keep you on your toes, in April 2021 a new gas connection called LCC27 was introduced to replace the current POL fitting. The transition will happen over a few years with the old POL fitting slowly being phased out. This connection improves safety but instead of overloading you with the info now, we’ll decode everything for you and break it all down in another article soon.

Hoses will either come with a POL (L), BSP 3/8″ LH thread (R) or Primus connection.

Can you use adapters for your gas cylinder?

Currently ‘3/8”BSP–POL’ or ‘POL-3/8”BSP’ adapters are available for purchase, and you used to be able to use either bottle with either appliance. That said, as the current gas standards are undergoing review, the use of adapters may be ruled out. With this in mind, always follow what the user manual indicates for your respective device. 

There are even ‘double adapters’ so you can run two gas appliances from one cylinder.

You can use a compatible adapter to use your appliance with a different bottle.

Can you use a longer gas hose with your camping stove?

While the current gas standards are undergoing reviews, and with current regulations and laws all in the name of safety – the simple answer at this point in time is no. In brief, you cannot lengthen the hose of a high-pressure stove – and while you may have previously been able to lengthen the hose of a low-pressure stove, this may not be permitted under the new gas standards. We’ll provide future updates when we know more information – but for now, in either case, you cannot join two gas hoses together.

Most gas appliances will have a flying disc regulator.

Do you need the regulator on the hose?

The simple answer is that if the gas appliance in question came with a regulator, then yes, you need the regulator.

An appliance that came with a regulator assembly on the hose is referred to as a low-pressure appliance, whereas an appliance that simply has a hose directly from bottle-to-appliance is referred to as a high-pressure appliance.

Most gas appliances, except for some 2-3 burner gas stoves, have the flying disc-shaped regulators pre-set to 2.8kPa which is the pressure at which the appliance is designed to operate.

If the appliance you purchased came with a regulator assembly then you need to make sure you use the regulator in the system, and if/when replacing the hose and/or regulator, ensure you replace like-for-like.

If in doubt, check the information plate on the appliance where by law the safe operating gas pressure must be stated.

Here’s an example of what a regulator looks like on a Coleman stove.

Connecting a low-pressure stove or appliance to a caravan or camper trailer

The LPG gas supply that is permanently plumbed into a caravan or camper trailer is generally regulated to 2.8kPa at the gas bottle, meaning every gas outlet in the caravan is 2.8kPa. You cannot connect a high-pressure stove to this system.

You used to be able to fit a low pressure cooker appliance – with a regulator on the included hose, that is – to a caravan, via a bayonet fitting with an alternative hose that doesn’t have a regulator. There are only a handful of stoves suitable for this – Gasmate’s Double and Single Wok Cookers, Companion’s Wok Burner and the RV Stove & Grill, will work!

Be aware that gas systems in caravans and camper trailers are covered by standards and must only be installed or modified by licensed gas fitters. Currently, we’re unaware of the updated regulations regarding connecting a stove to a caravan. Once we receive further clarification, we’ll provide more information and updates in the future.

Here’s what a permanently plumbed gas supply on a caravan will look like. Image: Barry Childs

What about the gas fittings on the side of gas appliances?

These fittings can vary considerably, most 2-3 burner gas stoves will have either a coarse or fine thread fitting. Many have less common sizes to ensure you use the right regulators and hoses, for example, cast iron burners tend to have smaller ¼” BSP fittings.

It would be nice if we could simplify all these fittings to have just one or two universal types. But instead, there’s a whole bunch of variants you may come across, and if you’re looking for clarity on something we haven’t already mentioned, hopefully, the extra four listed below will help you out.

Cast iron burners generally have a 1/4 BSP fitting. Image: Hampdon Industrial

BSP

British Standard Pipe is a common type of thread used in Australia for gas and water connections. The acronym refers specifically to the thread type and is available in numerous sizes.

SAE

Society of Automotive Engineers is another thread type available in numerous sizes. These fittings are identified by the 45-degree tapered end on the male fittings and are less common on general camping stoves.

An SAE fitting has a 45-degree tapered end. Image: Caravans Plus

UNEF

United National Extra Fine (screw threads) is another thread type used for gas connections and is a bit like SAE.

BOM/Coleman/CGA600

This fitting is specifically for and found on appliances that utilise disposable propane canisters. We had to ask around, but we believe that the BOM acronym comes from the name ‘BernzOmatic” which is a USA based company that uses the CGA600 connection for their cylinders.

LPG gas bottles can be used with these appliances via BOM to POL and BOM to 3/8″ LH adapters allowing connection directly from the LPG bottle to the regulator for the appliance.

BOM fittings are for appliances that use disposable propane canisters.

One last note on cylinder safety

For the safety of you and those camping with and around you, read our Ultimate Gas Cylinder Safety Guide. The safe use and maintenance of your gas equipment is your responsibility, and a gas explosion is likely to ruin more than just your bacon and eggs.

If you have any doubts then get in touch so we can try and help, and for safety’s sake, don’t take shortcuts or try and bodge something up, it’s just not worth it.

A very big thank you to Ben Greeneklee who, with over 20 years of experience in gas appliance manufacturing and testing, helped us with the technical accuracy of the information in this article.

Got any questions or details you’d like to see added to this article? Let us know in the comments below and in the meantime, we’ll get busy on the details surrounding the new LCC27 connection that’s replacing the POL fitting.

The post Understanding Gas for Camping and Caravan Stoves & Appliances appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In some parts of this big land, you can get sub-zero temperatures during the winter months, while in other areas the mercury can tip 50 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day. Then there are the arid and dry regions and some that are humid and muggy.

If you are touring and on the move, doing the big lap or even a half lap, with a little planning, you can have a good chance of avoiding the rain and cold temperatures for as long as you like. It’s all about being in the right part of Australia at the right time.

When touring with a tent, you are much more exposed to the weather.

Why does the weather matter?

Life on the road exposes you to the elements much more compared to when you are at home. More time is spent outdoors, and you often have less gear for managing inclement weather. Your travel setup will determine how vulnerable you are to changes in the weather and to what degree this influences when and where you go.

With a tent for shelter, you can’t simply shut the door, turn on the heater and kick back to see out the storm as you can at home. Even a caravan or motorhome is far more comfortable and accommodating in bad weather than a tent or swag, especially if your caravan is equipped with air conditioning and an onboard kitchen, toilet and shower.

Ultimately, the weather affects what you can do and how comfortable you are when doing it. Adverse weather needs to be managed differently so it’s important to plan the direction and timing of your trip.

The southwest of WA has plenty of rain in winter.

What do you have to think about?

There are 4 main weather conditions to be aware of when touring Australia:

• Temperature – there’s a big difference between 25 degrees and sub-zero, and if you aren’t prepared with appropriate gear, at best you’ll be uncomfortable but at worst, you can put yourself in significant danger.
• Wind – this is not entirely unpredictable as the wind tends to follow patterns related to the different seasons. However, if you are coastal camping or somewhere equally exposed and the wind blows its head off for several days straight, your trip is going to be really unpleasant.
• Rain and Snow – I like rain and snow, but only when I’m prepared for it. Some parts of Australia experience torrential downpours and no matter how well you’ve planned things, rainfall is hard to predict. On the other hand, snowy conditions are usually only during the winter months and designated to the alpine regions. If visiting during this time, it’s essential to stay informed on the current conditions and be properly equipped.
• Humidity – some folks love it while others struggle and if you’re exploring the northern parts of Australia all year round, some humidity is unavoidable. These conditions are at their peak during the wet season from November to April and can make a big difference to your comfort levels, especially if you are not used to it.

Swimming in Moore River, WA.

What does the weather affect?

Not only are your comfort and safety a concern, but the weather can affect everything from seasonal closures on roads and station camping to boating, fishing and other activities. We have had some nasty weather events in Australia over the last year which have only highlighted the importance of staying informed and being as prepared and safe as possible.

When it’s warm, everyone loves a swim to cool off but there are some areas where the beaches, creeks and rivers are unsafe. If you’re exploring the northern regions, that swim could go horribly wrong if crocodiles inhabit the water. In parts of the Murray River, the water on the surface looks inviting and calm but beneath lurks a frightening current that can potentially sweep you under. Planning your trip so that you can make the most of the weather and your environment will hopefully mean you can avoid being caught out in the middle of summer with nowhere safe to cool off!

A caravan makes for a much more comfortable trip.

What travel setup do you have?

We briefly mentioned above that different travel setups will suit different scenarios. If you have a caravan or motorhome and your plan is to hop between caravan parks through the wet season up north, it’s entirely possible to be comfortable at night with an air conditioner and use the onsite swimming pool to keep cool during the day.

Try it in a tent and you’ll probably have a hard time sleeping at night. Then when the build-up breaks into torrential rain, trying to cook a meal or stop your tent from floating away with the runoff will be a serious struggle.

Likewise, tent camping during cold weather is certainly doable with the right setup. An insulated mat and decent sleeping bag can make all the difference and if you are touring with a caravan or motorhome, chances are you’ll have heating.

Ultimately, you can travel and camp in most weather conditions, but it’s the gear that will determine your level of comfort.

The Duke of Orleans Bay in Esperance on the southwest coast of WA.

How to check the weather

The Bureau of Meteorology is the best place to visit when you’re planning your lap. The website might be a bit clunky and contains more data than you would ever need. But, you can literally look at years and years of weather history, including average monthly rainfall, temperature, humidity and wind.

For example, if we are planning a long beach camping trip we will always look at the winds for the previous year, and the averages for the time we want to go. Western Australia is well known for horrendous winds along the western coastline, especially during the ‘r‘ months – September, November, December, January, February, March and April.

Of course, history isn’t a guarantee that things are going to be perfect, but it gives you a much greater probability for what to expect and when so that you can plan for the weather you want.

The BOM website is great for pre-planning but once you are on the road, the app might be more user-friendly. We use this to keep an eye on the weather and adjust our plans accordingly. If a big storm front is coming in, it’s best to head away from the coast and seek some protection elsewhere. Consider that much of the northern part of Australia experiences cyclones and those conditions are not suitable for being on the road. You will need to seek appropriate shelter. Likewise, if you are travelling through a bushfire risk area during the warmer months, download the necessary state or territory apps and stay informed.

Other apps that are handy to have on your phone can be found here.

Crossing Manning Gorge northwest of Broome.

What is the ‘best’ weather?

This is where things get interesting! If you listen to the Snowys Podcast, you would have heard the two hosts discussing how people like travelling and camping in different weather. For some, kicking back around a campfire on a freezing winter’s night is as good as it gets. Yet others have had enough if the temperature drops below 15 degrees.

At the end of the day, it’s about matching your gear, activities and climatic preferences to the location that’s going to give you the best chance for an ideal experience. If you head along the south coast of Australia during June, July and August, you are not likely to get warm, sunny days and idyllic beach weather. If you’re wanting warmth, clear skies and sunshine, at that time of year you’re better off heading the other way and going north as far as you can!

There are 5 main climatic zones – tropical, sub-tropical, arid, Mediterranean and temperate. Although still regarded as temperate, the Australian Alps are more as the name suggests, alpine.

With the right gear, winter camping and kicking back around the campfire is a great experience.

During the southern winter, the areas north of the Tropic of Capricorn boast sunny and warm conditions. But when the south is experiencing its hot and dry summer, the north goes into its wet season with extreme humidity and torrential rain. It’s during this time that many places become inaccessible due to flooding and road closures, so to avoid disappointment and stay safe from cyclonic patterns, it’s best to tour the north from May through to October and head south from November to April.

There’s a reason why in summer, people head south for the cooler weather and in winter, everyone flocks north for their tropical getaways! The mass grey nomad migration in the wintertime is evidence of hundreds of thousands of people who don’t want to endure another cold and wet winter.

But each to their own. To get your perfect weather, just head in the direction that has the temperature and conditions you desire. If warm, sunny days for 365 days of the year is want you dream of, then you can plan you lap of Australia and for the most part, live your dream.

Your initial point of departure and the time of year in which you depart will determine the direction in which you first head off. So, here’s a 12-month guide to help kick-start your lap based on warm temperatures and minimal wind, rain/snow and humidity:

• November/December/January/February/March – follow the coastline south of the Tropic of Capricorn.
• April/May/September/October – start heading north and inland.
• June/July/August – anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn (coastal and inland).

Bear in mind there is some leeway and crossover between the ‘shoulder’ months what you want to avoid is the Red Centre during the peak of summer and the far tropical regions during the height of the Wet. If you love snow sports, it’s likely you’ll want to hit the Australian Alps during ski season so of course, there is some flexibility here, but you get the gist.

Perfect nights in the Kimberley.

In 2018, we left Perth in May and spent 3-months in a camper trailer. The only bad weather we had was the first, and last part of the trip when we were close to Perth. Once you hit the Shark Bay region on Australia’s Coral Coast, there is a distinct increase in temperature and a decrease in the chance of rain.

That is our perfect weather, and we often try and escape the Perth winter. However, we also love camping down south during the colder months but we do so with the right gear and are ready if the weather turns.

What’s your perfect weather for touring?

The post How to Get the Best Weather for Your Lap of Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, there are a few things that you absolutely must have when touring this country – plenty of water, gas and fuel. But, just as importantly, you must be able to safely and securely store them on your 4WD in a way that is conducive for driving over rough tracks.

Our 80 series with an LPG bottle on the roof.

In this post, we are looking at how you carry and store water, LPG and fuel (petrol or diesel, whichever your 4WD takes!) in and on your vehicle, and at home.

Sadly, there have been some terrible accidents and deaths from fuel, in particular, that hasn’t been stored or carried correctly, and we’d like everyone to take the right precautions.

Some remote locations need a lot of fuel like Steep Point.

Take enough for your trip

The first, and most obvious point is that fuel, water and LPG are somewhat critical to your survival. If you run out of any of them, it’s going to put you at risk, with water being by far the most important. It’s critical that you know how much you are going to use, what backup plans you have and that you are prepared should things go wrong.

Single burner stove that uses disposable gas cartridges work well.

With LPG, if you run out you can still light a fire if you have to, or eat food that doesn’t need cooking. We usually take a small single burner and a couple of spare butane cartridges, which last enough to get you back to safety.

In regards to fuel for your 4WD, you should have a history of what it uses under different conditions, bearing in mind that soft sand will use the most fuel and towing can make a huge difference. Take enough fuel for where you are going, with a bit in reserve.

Soft beach sand will make you use a lot more fuel.

Water is something you won’t survive for long without, so take enough to drink, wash your dishes with and have a bath as required.

Each trip is different, and there are lots of variables for how much water you should take, but factor the temperature in, access to other water sources (swimming in a river for example) who you are travelling with and what you’d do if it all went pear-shaped. Things like water purification tablets or a LifeStraw are a fantastic emergency measure.

Beyond this, if it really goes wrong, you should have a way of communicating; an EPIRB, satellite phone or mobile phone reception suffices if you aren’t travelling out of services.

Hiking in the Kimberley? Make sure you take adequate water.

Weights

All of these weigh a lot, and that means you have to be careful where they are kept. LPG is probably your least concern in terms of weight as the quantities that you’d carry under normal circumstances are almost insignificant. Water, petrol and diesel though are a different story, with many travellers taking several hundred kilograms of them!

Water weighs 1kg per litre. Petrol weighs 0.75kg per litre, and Diesel weighs 0.832kg per litre. Ideally, you want to keep the weight down as low as possible in a 4WD. Some people carry fuel and water on the roof racks of their 4WD, and often you don’t have a choice, but lots of weight up high on a 4WD is not a good idea.

Fuel and water on the roof racks.

Fumes, explosions and general safety

Petrol and LPG can be very dangerous. Diesel tends to be quite stable and safe, and water is essentially 100% safe. The worst-case with water is you end up with wet carpets inside your 4WD, and a lack of water if it breaks.

LPG and petrol both have a pretty obvious smell, and can be very dangerous to inhale. Diesel is much less likely to explode, and the fumes are significantly nicer than petrol.

Of course, it’s important when refilling to ensure that there is no spillage, as if you have petrol or diesel on the side of your jerry cans, you will smell it for a long time!

4KG LPG bottle in a dedicated holder on the roof racks.

Storage redundancy

One of the things that a lot of people don’t put too much thought into is that the containers that you carry your petrol, diesel and water in can, and do fail from time to time.

Whether that’s your long-range tank, a jerry can or a flexible bladder, it is possible for leaks to develop, and that can put you in a pretty bad place.

With water especially, it pays to have a couple of different storage locations, so if one does let go, it’s not your only supply!

Double jerry can and tyre holder with taps on our old Hilux.

Carrying LPG, fuel and water in your 4WD

LPG

LPG should be kept on your roof rack if possible, or on your trailer, but small canisters are okay inside the vehicle as long as they are removed from the burner, kept secure, upright, with their safety caps on and away from high temperatures.

Our best LPG storage option was a quick-release holder for a 4kg bottle that we bolted onto the roof racks. If it leaks, everyone is safe, and it’s easy to undo and set up at each camp. A lot of people use a milk crate on the roof racks with the bottle tied down nice and securely too.

If you are going to carry LPG inside your vehicle, take a minute to read the rules within your state. Most suggest anything under 9kg is okay if you take the relevant precautions, but it’s a risk I think people should avoid unless there is no other way.

Gas bottles secured in milk crates on the roof.

Water

Water is the easiest of them all to store, but it’s also probably the most important. Having it easy to get to will make your touring much more enjoyable. If you can fit a water tank to your 4WD inside the rear, or underneath, you will be onto the best solution.

This can either be gravity fed, or you can install a small pump. Jerry cans and smaller containers inside your vehicle are fine, providing they are well secured and can’t move around or be punctured.

There’s nothing wrong with using jerry cans for water.

You can absolutely carry water in jerry cans on the roof, but don’t overload it as it’s possible over time in the sun you will end up with mould growing (especially in clear containers).

Another popular option for carrying water is on a rear bar – on one of the swing away arms. Some people carry fuel here, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend LPG or petrol as in the event of an accident, things could go bad real fast.

Our 12V water pump that takes from a 50L underbody water tank.

Petrol and Diesel

Petrol and diesel are best stored in the factory fuel tanks or long-range tanks under your 4WD. If this isn’t possible, then jerry cans are a good option (with them in a trailer being the most preferred option). There is a limit of 250L of petrol when travelling, so even if you have the capacity and space you can’t take significant amounts.

Petrol shouldn’t be kept inside your vehicle due to the fumes. Diesel is also recommended to be kept outside your vehicle, but many people do safely carry it inside with the right precautions.

Our old camper trailer had 3 jerry can holders and 2 LPG bottles.

Again, you can store both petrol and diesel on the roof racks, but having 5 jerry cans full of fuel or water is going to make your 4WD handle very poorly, and will possibly be illegal. Bladders are an option that some people do use very successfully too, but you need to be very careful with them!

If you have a trailer that you take with you, then there are more options for fuel storage. We carry diesel/petrol and LPG in dedicated holders for our camper trailer or have them inside the boat, tied down properly.

If you have a ute, the canopy is a much better place to keep petrol or diesel if you need to, but LPG should still be in a vented area where possible.

We need to take a lot of fuel for our boat.

Storing LPG, fuel and water at home

With LPG, petrol and diesel, storage at home is simple. Keep them in a well-ventilated location that doesn’t get too hot, doesn’t receive excessive sunlight (gentle sun through a garage window for a few hours a day is fine) and make sure the breathers are open for the jerry cans. Petrol, in particular, expands significantly as it heats up, and if you don’t have the breathers open to allow this to happen you risk doing damage to your jerry cans and having a big spill.

If you keep them in a shed or garage where you work, know that this can put you in a very dangerous situation. Before doing any hot work (grinding, cutting, welding, smoking, etc.) you should take a minute to look around and remove anything that has the potential to harm you. Anything flammable should be taken away, and this includes jerry cans and LPG bottles.

The easiest way to store your water containers at home is empty and dry. Tip the water out, allow them to dry out for a few days and then put the lid back on, but not tight. If you keep water, you should keep it out of sunlight, and in containers that are full. It won’t ever go off this way, but sunlight and air gaps encourage the growth of nasties.

Taking lots of fuel to Steep Point.

Don’t take shortcuts

It’s an amazing privilege to load your 4WD up and explore the many adventures Australia has to offer. Take the time to store your fuel and water safely, and you’ll add many incredible memories to the list.

Don’t take shortcuts especially with LPG and petrol, or the results can be tragic.

See you out there!

What’s the best storage solution you’ve found for touring?

The post Carrying and Storing Water, Gas & Fuel for 4WD Touring appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Those who have travelled extensively know that you need to be a bit of a minimalist when it comes to packing a 4WD. It’s easy to throw heaps of gear into the back, so in this post, we look at what you can do to minimise your weight and gear for 4WD adventures.

More weight means your 4WD works harder.

If you haven’t ever taken the time to weigh your 4WD, you should. There are a lot of 4WD’s in Australia that are overweight in one way or another, and this has some very nasty ramifications especially if you have an accident. Beyond this, weight is the enemy for 4WDing. It makes everything work harder, increases the chance of something breaking, makes your 4WD less capable and uses more fuel. This should be the basis for reducing weight and gear.

I’ve seen some 4WD’s so loaded up with gear that it’s almost impossible for everyone to get inside, and that’s not comfortable, safe or how you should be travelling. At the end of the day it’s a fine balance between taking what you need to have an enjoyable and safe trip, and not overloading your vehicle, or taking so much that it becomes troublesome to travel.

The more you travel, the better you get at this, but there are some simple things that can be applied to assist to begin with.

The more gear you take, the more fuel you use.

What sort of travel are you doing?

There’s a lot of different styles of 4WD adventures. If you are just towing a caravan around this great country on the occasional gravel road, your weight and gear options are greatly increased. If you are doing remote travel through the deserts for weeks on end and not towing anything, then you have to be a lot smarter as your vehicle works harder and has less payload.

Match your style of 4WD adventure to the level of gear that you take, and where possible, minimise your gear.

Take no more than you need.

You can’t take everything

Let’s start with a simple fact; you cannot, and should not take everything with you that you’d like to. Unless you are an amazing minimalist, there’s a pretty good chance you will have to make a choice when it comes to what gear goes, and what stays at home.

If weight isn’t the reason for having to leave it at home, often space is. Struggling to repack your gear back into the 4WD every time you want to move is a problem you want to avoid.

Every bit of gear on, and in your 4WD should be divided into 2 categories; ‘must-have’ and ‘nice to have’.

The more you take, the harder it is to pack.

Must-have gear

I consider must-have gear to be directly related to safety and comfort. You need water, food, fuel, comfortable clothing and bedding, shelter, tools, first aid gear, spares and a way to communicate. I’m not suggesting for a second that you shouldn’t be comfortable when camping, but there are varying levels of comfort that you want to think about, and you shouldn’t expect the same 5-star luxury when on a 4WD trip as you’d get in a fancy resort!

4WD recovery gear is non-negotiable.

Nice to have gear

This category is probably controversial, but at the end of the day, there’s a heap of gear on the market that you really don’t ‘need’ with you. Camping has evolved so much over the last few decades that you can now literally take anything with you including the kitchen sink, and this goes against minimising your weight and gear!

Where people would be happy to take an icebox, swag and a few tins of food, the standard camping setup today is much more extravagant. I’m not going to complain about this, as it makes camping much more enjoyable, but it does certainly come at a cost, and it’s not possible to take all this wonderful gear on some of the more challenging 4WD adventures.

Things like coffee machines, diesel heaters, microwaves, multiple fridges, and huge battery systems are not ‘must-have’ gear – they are nice to have but you can live without them.

Sorting through the gear in our Dmax.

Other ways to reduce gear and weight

Aside from literally leaving gear at home that you really don’t need, there are a few other ways to reduce weight and space:

Take multipurpose items

The older generations regularly say they won’t take something with them if it doesn’t perform more than one role. A little hatchet is good for cutting branches, banging in tent pegs and it doesn’t take up much room. A stainless steel bucket can be used for everything from boiling water for a shower to storing gear, cooking in, building sandcastles, putting caught fish in and collecting water from a river. A quality tarp can be used for extra shade, protection from the rain, collecting water or to lay on under your vehicle to inspect and do repairs.

If you can take items that double up in use, you are essentially halving the gear you need to bring and that’s a win for everyone. Ever wondered why the Leatherman is so popular?!

The humble stainless steel bucket is great for so many uses.

Prioritise by importance and chance of use

When you go to pack something into your 4WD, have a think about how important it actually is, and how often you might use it. Taking the time to physically hold each bit of gear you pack in is a great way to sort out what’s important and what isn’t.

I know after several trips in our 4WD I have to do a cleanout, as you get a build-up of all sorts of random gear that finds its way into the vehicle and never leaves! I always find far too many ratchet straps, kids’ toys, bottles of water, cans of food and random bits and bobs that I’ve forgotten about. If you don’t use them for several trips and they aren’t related to safety, take them out!

Don’t skimp on items that you might rarely use, especially if they relate to your safety. Things like first aid kits and recovery gear might not be used often, but are absolutely essential. On the other hand, taking a rooftop tinny along on a trip that is 90% desert and 10% coastline might be something you can do without.

Rooftop boats may not be an essential for you. 

Substitute heavy for light and big for smaller

There are so many ways you can substitute items that you need with lighter ones. Everything is getting smaller, lighter and easier to use, which works in your favour. Instead of a giant, heavy canvas tent, you can now get them featherlight. Looking at the gear used for hiking shows this point very well.

Instead of a cast iron camp oven, you can get spun steel ones. Instead of a giant old school Maglite torch, you can get tiny LED torches which are substantially brighter. Camping chairs are becoming more compact and lightweight, as are fire pits, gas burners and lots of kitchenware.

The Oztent RV5 is great but certainly not light or compact.

Anything that folds, squashes up or packs away neatly is fantastic for camping. We have just upgraded to a set of lightweight square pots and pans for cooking on our burner, and they have removable handles and stack inside each other, making it super-compact.

We have also just gotten a fantastic beach shelter that covers around 3 x 3 metres, only weighs around 4kg and packs up super small. Compare that to a big, heavy gazebo and you’ve saved a bucket load of space and weight, not to mention the ease of assembly.

4WD gear is also getting lighter – Dyneema winch rope, soft shackles, snatch ropes, snatch pulleys, lithium batteries and the list goes on. You can dramatically reduce the weight and space consumed just by substituting heavy and large items for light, smaller ones.

Our new Breezy Shade shelter which is amazing.

Pick your 4WD accessories and modifications wisely

Some of the heaviest additions to a car relate to modifications, recovery gear and accessories on a 4WD. Bar work, in particular, adds a huge amount of weight. Bullbars, scrub bars, roof racks, side steps and rear bars will eat into your payload. If you walked into your local 4WD store and decked your vehicle out with everything in their catalogue, you’d probably drive out overweight, with no ability to add any gear inside!

Pick your modifications wisely, knowing your total payload, what is important and how you load your vehicle. A winch is a great modification, but if you aren’t ever going to need one, that’s 20 – 50kg of weight saved. Aluminium or plastic bull bars can save a heap of weight too.

If you aren’t doing rock crawling, you can get away without rock sliders, and whilst rear drawers can be super handy, they too take up a lot of room and weight.

Plastic smart bars are super light.

Consider a trailer

If you can’t reduce the weight or are running low on space, a great option is to spread it out with a trailer. They do have some downsides, but it’s better to spread the load more evenly than to overload the rear axle of your 4WD, for example. When our little boy came along, we moved to a camper trailer as it just wasn’t legally possible to fit everything in for our 4WD adventures.

Lots of modifications can work against you off-road.

Final words

There are lots of different styles of 4WD adventures out there, but no matter what you are doing its extremely easy to throw too much gear on and into your 4WD. Really think about what you need to take so you have what you need, and no more!

What other weight and space-saving tips do you have?!

The post Minimising Weight and Gear for 4WD Adventures appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The millions of dollars in donations. The issue being weaved into speeches at the Golden Globe Awards. The endless flow of Instagram photos, from everyday people doing their part to help.

There’s a silver lining to tragedies like the Australian fires. It challenges our perceptions, prompts us to act differently, and hopefully, become part of the solution.

Now is the time to take a trip locally.

This is THE time to travel, not avoid it

While you might not be thinking of taking a trip to these affected regions, this is exactly what these broken communities need. Tourism plays an integral role in helping these areas rebuild and thrive again. Many of the fires have occurred in small towns that rely on tourism and travellers… to buy their petrol, enjoy the local shops, eat at the bakeries and restaurants, and spend money on activities.

In fact, South Australia Tourism have launched the Book Them Out campaign to encourage travellers to visit the Adelaide Hills and Kangaroo Island. Tour with a local guide, meet the wildlife, buy the local produce, spirits, and wine, and stay a few nights.

Meet the local wildlife. Image: Nicole Brandon

Planning a trip to fire-affected areas

The millions of dollars in donations probably won’t reach down to help ‘Joe, who owns the local supermarket’ – at least, not for some time. Your choice to travel to these areas (well after they’ve been contained) will quickly inject desperately needed cash into the local economies.

Show your support by staying in their accommodation and filling up your eskies. 

Pick the region and check for safety updates

Take some time to survey the areas that have been the most affected across Australia. Are they regions you’ve always wanted to visit? Pick a location like Kangaroo Island, for example, making sure you’re up to date with the latest news to ensure you’re safe. Check-in with the local CFS updates and connect with someone who can give you location suggestions. Half of the island has been wiped out, but an equally large part of it has come through unscathed.

Be up to date with the last safety information on the region. 

Work with local tourism providers

It’s important to do your research, speak to local providers and be conscious of who you choose to travel with. Look for the companies who exist in and around the regions, so you know your money is going to directly and immediately help get them on the road to recovery.

Your next road trip can inject much-needed funds into fire-affected areas. 

Take notice of local brands (and buy them at home)

You know that honey farm you visited in KI or that Adelaide Hills wine that you loved? Look for these local brands and support them from afar, once you’ve returned home. This is going to be a long road for these families, businesses, communities, and our country as a whole. The media will move onto the next, big news cycle… while these regions’ towns, people, flora and fauna, have no choice but to take it one day at a time.

Support local produce, even after you’ve returned home. Image: Steve Hudson

Be prepared to experience new emotions

It’s not often that travellers turn towards natural disasters. Safety threats aside, visiting regions that have experienced great trauma and loss, is emotionally challenging. So, it’s important to prepare yourself to experience a broad range of emotions, as you’re walking around these fire-torn towns. But this is the mystery of travel. It opens our eyes, our worldview, and is the greatest of teachers.

Think about the impact you have on the environment.

Think about your impact

This is a chance for us to take an honest look at our own actions. Are you recycling? Using a lot of single plastic? Over-consuming and taking unnecessary flights? There are always ways to make choices when you travel that have less impact on the environment.

We must be responsible for our own behaviours and take an honest look at what’s not serving humankind. Change always follows contrast, and we can start today.

Postpone the big overseas trips and let’s continue to show the world what the Aussie spirit is all about. Mateship!

The post Holiday Locally to Help Rebuild Australian Tourism appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In this article, I’m going to share with you our current setup at 4WDing Australia, split into a 2016 Isuzu Dmax 4WD, and our camper trailer. I’ll also share with you some of the most important things to consider when setting up a solar system for camping and then you can go out and get something that is going to do what you require it to do. Yes, there are caravans out there which will run air conditioners off the battery and solar setups, but a lot of people don’t have any need for it.

Our setup is quite a bit simpler but has been built with a fair bit of thought, redundancy and functionality.

Camping in the Kimberley.

Requirements for our build

I wanted something that was low – mid-range budget, reliable, hands-off operating, overkill in terms of solar and battery capacity and that had some redundancy should things go wrong. I also wanted both systems to be separate, and run on their own but have the ability to join them together as required to charge either the Dmax battery or the camper trailer.

Our Dmax and Camper Trailer.

What do we run from the Dmax

The primary current draw from our Dmax is a 55L Evakool Fridge, which runs 24/7 when we are away. This is our day-to-day fridge for all meals, and in reality, is critical for remote touring. Beyond that, we use the deep cycle battery for charging phones, the water tank pump, lights, portable showers (small pump) and a 350W pure sinepower inverter which charges our camera batteries, laptops and smaller batteries for head torches/Ryobi drills, etc. We don’t have any extremely power-hungry devices on board, as we really haven’t found any need for them.

Our Dmax setup.

Our Dmax solar and battery setup

Starting with the tow vehicle, I designed and purchased all of the gear used in the 12V touring setup with exception of the cabling, connections and odd bits and pieces, which were done by a mobile auto electrician.

I went with a 200W solar panel from Low Energy Developments, which is permanently bolted to the roof racks on the canopy. This feeds a 150aH Bosch AGM battery right at the front of the canopy. The charging of the battery is done via a Projecta 25 amp DCDC battery charger, which will either take power from the alternator or the solar panel on the roof depending on the conditions.

Dual battery voltage monitor.

I have a second, cheap solar regulator which is also inside the canopy on Anderson plugs, so if the DCDC battery charger fails, I can bypass it and charge the battery from that. If the solar panel fails, the battery will be charged via the DCDC unit/alternator. For monitoring the battery condition, I have a Projecta Dual Battery monitor, which simply displays the voltage.

I had an auto electrician run all of the cabling and breakers, and simply did the mechanical part of the install which included securely mounting the secondary battery, bolting the solar panel onto the roof racks and making up a box to house the cabling. There’s a big cable from the starting battery running along the chassis and to a terminal box under the ute tray, which is fused. Power from that then tee’s off to inside the canopy, and to the rear Anderson plug which is used for charging the trailer we tow.

Junction box under the Dmax tray.

Our camper trailer setup

At this point in time, we actually have two camper trailers, but we are still playing with the solar system on the new Reconn R2, so let’s leave that alone for now! Our other camper trailer is a simple, Australian-made soft floor camper trailer with a difference – a huge solar and battery setup!

This particular setup stems from the need to run a freezer on board purely off battery and solar. It’s also a 55L Evakool, but as I soon found out, when you run a freezer at -18 degrees (which is the recommended safe food storage temperature) it uses a lot of power. In our particular case, around 3 amp hours, 24 hours a day. That’s quite a bit of draw, and you need a significant battery and solar system to back it up

A 55L Evakool Freezer in our camper.

The freezer was installed for a couple of reasons. With a young kid on board (two now!) we wanted to have frozen meals that were healthy, ready to go at a moment’s notice. Travelling with young kids in a soft floor camper trailer isn’t exactly easy, and living off 2-minute noodles isn’t our idea of fun either, so the freezer was a logical option. Beyond that, we do a lot of fishing and spearing, so having a decent size unit that could take our fresh fillets home was a pre-requisite.

We don’t run much else off the camper trailer. Some basic lights and occasionally the inverter to charge laptops etc., but that’s about it.

Camper trailer batteries with DCDC and Victron Regulator.

Installation

On this particular install, I did everything, including removing the originally installed 100 aH battery and replacing it with two 135 ah Power AGM batteries. The camper trailer came with a 20 amp Projecta DCDC battery charger which takes power from the tow vehicle’s Anderson plug and charges the battery when driving.

Again, I purchased two 200W panels from Low Energy Developments and connected them into a Victron 100/30 regulator. To monitor things a bit more closely, I purchased the Bluetooth dongle too, which passes on information to your phone via a Bluetooth app. This makes life a lot easier for monitoring how much power the solar is generating, and what it does on a day-to-day basis.

The panels are mounted to a DIY boat loader, which flips up and in most cases points North. If we have to face a different way, the panels pivot off the boat loader to other angles.

The Victron phone app is super useful.

Overall

Both of these systems are overkill, and that’s exactly what you want. I’ve never seen the Dmax go below 12.4 volts, and the camper trailer not much less than that. If you are running deep cycle batteries, it’s important that you don’t discharge them too much/too often or you will drastically shorten their lifespan.

Both systems work independently, but I can charge the camper batteries from the Dmax motor, or secondary battery if required. On the flip side, I can also use the camper trailer to charge the Dmax batteries if needed. We also carry a 190W portable solar panel set, which gives us some extra redundancy if things really go pear-shaped, or we get stuck under some trees for several days in a row.

I wanted both systems to comfortably last two days without any sun, as it doesn’t always shine well, and it’s not uncommon to get several days in a row of overcast weather. I hate the idea of taking a generator camping, so solar seemed like the logical arrangement.

The only thing that has changed since installing these systems is the price and attractiveness of lithium batteries. These have some major benefits, and they are becoming extremely popular. It’s something I would consider if I did it again.

200W solar panel on the Dmax.

What do you need to look at when building a good touring setup?

This probably deserves its own post, but I will give some brief pointers to think about when building a solar/battery setup for touring Australia.

1. Work out what you’re running and how much power it uses

Work out what you are running, how long you are going off-grid and how much power it uses. In reality, this is all one big maths solution, and every device you buy will have figures for its power consumption. Whatever you consume, you need to be able to recharge that day from solar, or driving around. If you are running normal deep cycle batteries, try not to discharge them below 50%. This means for a 120aH battery, bank on only having 60 available.

Only bank on getting about 6 hours of good quality sun each day. Of course, this varies depending on where you are in Australia, but it’s a good guide to go off of.

400W of panels on our camper trailer boat loader.

2. Make sure you have redundancy

Make sure you have redundancy. Some days the sun is terrible, or you have no choice but to stay under a tree. Portable panels are a great option for this.

3. Not all solar panels are the same

Not all solar panels are the same. 12V solar panels vary in price like you wouldn’t believe. However, there are a lot online that are not actually the size they say they are. More expensive is not always indicative of better quality.

4. Make sure you use the correct cable size

Use the right cable size. This is critical. Too many people install wiring that is underrated. This is problematic as the voltage drops significantly more, and it can also cause severe issues like cables melting and electrical fires. Not good. Cable size should be determined by the power required, length of the run and how much voltage drop you can afford.

Inside the Dmax electrical panel.

5. Good connections are essential

Use good connections and fuse things correctly. Nothing is worse than scotch locks and a pair of poor quality crimps. Make sure your cable connections are done well, and that you have appropriate fuses in place. This is not an option! It protects your equipment and stops your vehicle or trailer burning to the ground. A quality crimp or soldered joint is the way to go.

6. It’s important to choose quality gear

Use decent quality products. There’s a lot of rubbish out there, including solar panel regulators. Don’t pair a decent solar system to a poor quality regulator, or run your expensive 240V electrical equipment off cheap inverters.

12V to 240V inverter.

7. Big inverters don’t pair well with small battery systems

Big inverters don’t pair well with small battery systems. There’s a lot of people installing 2000W inverters on battery systems that are nowhere near big enough to handle that sort of load. You will cook your batteries running excessive load through them.

8. Shop around and choose a reputable installer

Speak to multiple suppliers. There are some very shady installers out there, charging excessive fees for work that doesn’t justify it. Get quotes from a few different places, make sure they are using quality equipment, and that the system suits your requirements.

Make sure your electrical work is done well.

A good solar setup is worth its weight in gold

Being able to travel anywhere, and knowing that without lifting a finger my batteries are being well cared for and that they are happily running the devices we need to keep exploring this great country is fantastic. We don’t carry a generator, because the solar system has been designed and installed to suit our requirements.

If you are looking at setting something up to power your gear when 4wd touring you have plenty of great options today. Take your time, do lots of research and you’ll be able to enjoy some of the creature comforts you have at home in the middle of Australia!

See you out there!

What does your current solar and battery setup look like?

The post Our Solar & Battery Setup for Touring Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We have three boys and they’ve been learning on the road for a year. We do the hard stuff from the caravan, everything else is done outside or at some of Australia’s amazing resources.

Hands-on learning

Children will learn so much whilst travelling, just by being out there and exploring! Travelling Australia exposes children to different environments, history, people and opportunities. Hands-on and experiential learning is by far the most powerful form of knowledge and personal growth acquisition. It’s learning by doing and seeing.

There are so many museums around Australia, each offering unique displays and learning opportunities. They are often free, and sometimes have treasure hunts for the kids.

In addition to visiting museums and information centres, tours offer some great learning opportunities for children and are often free! The opportunity to hear from a different voice other than their parents gives them and you a break whilst the learning continues.

We can all learn so much from the things we see and do, in particular participating in tours.

Literacy and numeracy

Of course, learning literacy and numeracy skills are also extremely important. I would argue that these are the two areas that children need to continually study formally when travelling for an extended period. But helping them do that doesn’t need to be complicated or stressful.

Your two options – distance education and homeschooling

There are two main options for schooling your children remotely, these are distance education and homeschooling. Distance education generally provides a teacher, resources and a curriculum and is fairly rigid. Homeschooling provides greater flexibility but puts more responsibility on the parents.

Distance Education may include online lessons, including video calls with classmates and a teacher.

Considering your options

Educating your child can be a very daunting process. How much time will it take? What do they need to learn? How will I know if they are achieving what they need to? These are just a few of the questions that might come to mind.

It can be hard to know what you need to teach your child!

Distance education

Across Australia, there is a variety of Distance Education or School of the Air options. These will vary depending on the state that you live in, and each run a slightly different program. Enrollment in one of these programs is as close to a school-based setting as possible on the road. Your child will be allocated a teacher who you will be in regular contact with throughout the year.

They may have lessons online or over the telephone and will submit and receive regular feedback on their work. It is quite formal and structured. This is a great option for families who are looking for support and guidance on their children’s education.

With Distance Education, you may have the opportunity to participate in assemblies and other group gatherings, online.

Homeschooling

Alternatively, homeschooling can be a much more flexible option. Some states require you to register with a governing body so if you go down this path it may require you to submit evidence of learning or achievement. With homeschooling, you choose exactly what and when your children learn and study. You may set aside a regular time each morning or fit it in around your travels. This gives you a great opportunity to adapt to the curriculum as you travel to interesting or significant places.

You don’t have to do it alone, there are plenty of resources available both online and in printed form that can help you with ideas, including whole year maths books and comprehension activities.

Australia is a treasure trove of history, waiting to be discovered. If something piques your child’s interest, you can focus on it and develop the curriculum as you go.

Mix up the locations

We love mixing up the location that we do school work, often going to the local library or finding a nice spot to sit outside. Providing new locations or settings can really help with your children’s engagement and focus. It’s also nice to not always be sitting at the caravan or outside table.

Did someone say ‘classroom’? This was one of our favourites up at Cape LeVeque.

Focusing learning around the locations you visit

Perhaps one of the most meaningful approaches to learning is to focus the activities on the locations you visit. For example, if you see a lighthouse, it provides a unique opportunity to focus on. I guarantee they will be engaged if there is a shipwreck involved! Children might write about the purpose or history of that specific lighthouse, build their own lighthouse model or read a story about lighthouses or conduct a light reflection experiment. The opportunities are endless.

Use the locations around you to inspire learning. 

Have resources available

It’s handy to have some basic resources on hand no matter your education choice. Lined books are essential and come in a variety of sized line spacing, depending on the age of your child. Other items that tend to be used frequently include dice, counters, MAB blocks and stationery supplies such as pencils (coloured and grey lead), glue, scissors, post-it notes and sticky tape. You will find plenty of resources on the road as well.

Have plenty of resources available.

Incidental learning

Incidental learning will happen in many ways too. We have a cupboard full of board games that we often break out, not just on rainy days. These games include trivia games, battleships (great for practising co-ordinates), scrabble as well as playing cards which are great for maths.

Anyone for chess club?

Socialising and communication

Travelling doesn’t mean you are on your own, and your children don’t get the opportunity to socialise and enhance their communication skills. Exposed to a broad cross-section of fellow travellers, they learn how to begin a conversation and make new friends quickly.

It’s common to see groups of children of varying ages playing together, and often opportunities arise to travel with other families and form close friendships quickly. Children can also become more confident and clear when communicating with adults too.

Children form new friendships very quickly!

Flexibility with learning

Travelling full time requires a flexible approach. The same goes for schooling and learning on the road. Some days might include a full day out sightseeing, whilst rest days or bad weather might be a good opportunity to complete extra schoolwork. Sometimes it works out that schoolwork is completed on weekends, it all works out in the wash.

Take a flexible approach when it comes to your kid’s learning on the road.

I hope that you feel a little less daunted after reading this article. When you get out there, it’s amazing to witness the learning and growth that happens naturally whilst travelling. For many, it is a once in a lifetime opportunity that you want to make the most of.

Do you have any other distance education or homeschooling ideas? Please share them in the comments below.

The post Homeschooling & Distance Education on the Road appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We have been blown away by some of the places we have found off the beaten track, and with a little planning and preparation, you can not only camp in these places, but stay there for longer.

Before heading off into the wilderness (or even staying at a free or low-cost camp closer to town), there are a few considerations you need to take into account. Here are our things to think about when wanting to stay off-grid for longer.

The freedom to pull up just about anywhere off the grid is liberating and very rewarding.

Be aware of your water needs and usage

Consumption and water needs will vary based on individuals and the number of people camping with you. As a general rule, we aim for 10 litres per day, per person, to cover all of our drinking, washing, cooking and cleaning needs. You may need to forgo that long hot shower for a few days, but it’s amazing how refreshing a quick ‘feet and face’ wash can become in your daily routine. You also tend to come up with other ways to get that quick wash.

Most vans will have at least one built-in water tank, and it’s a good idea to carry a couple of extra freshwater jerry cans. Some people prefer to take separate bottled drinking water, but this is personal preference. We find our sink water filter does a great job getting rid of foul tastes or odours.

You tend to get creative with water when you have to make every drop count. Nothing beats a bucket shower!

Get creative with how you access your water

If you are moving between campsites and filling up your water tanks, take a shower or wash your clothes whilst at the water filling point. These are big users of water and getting the washing (you and your clothes) out of the way then and there will allow you to take in as much water as possible to that free or low-cost camp.

Use public showers whenever you can. Get creative, there are options everywhere. If you do use bottled water for drinking, filling your tanks for general use can come from almost any available water source, within reason!

Maybe not every water source is suitable, but there are certainly lots of options not involving this much danger!

Preserve the water you do have as much as possible

Another huge water saver is putting aside your dishes and only washing up once a day (the kids will love that!). Keep them in a secure container to keep the bugs and other animals out.

You will also need to consider how to dispose of your greywater. Some camps let you run the greywater into a garden, whilst others require you to catch it in an onboard or portable tank and remove from the site for proper disposal. There are different rules in different locations, just be prepared to do what you need to, to be able to stay.

There are some amazing places out there, that are a challenge to get to.

Think about how to keep your food fresh

When in a remote spot, you can’t just pop down the road for some fresh milk. You need a way to bring in and safely store enough food for everyone. We must admit, this was the first thing we looked to tackle when setting up for off-grid camping! We’ve got 5 people in our family, and that means a lot of food is needed to feed everyone.

We put a combi fridge in the back of our car, allowing us to have access to both a fridge and a freezer on the go, in addition to our caravan fridge. Every caravan will have a 2 way or 3-way fridge. If it’s a 3-way, you will be running it on gas in most remote locations. Remember to have an extra gas bottle on hand in case one runs out! If it’s a 2-way, make sure you have enough solar and battery power to keep that thing running.

If you don’t have access to a fridge, the good old esky with a couple of bags of ice will do the trick for a couple of days. Bear in mind though, if using this setup you will need access to a store to purchase ice at least every second day (depending on the weather). Wherever possible consider food alternatives that do not require refrigeration, such as long-life UHT milk and the humble stew in a can. We have started to make our own bread and damper on the road to remove the need to store more bulky bread items.

Our combi fridge in the back of the car fits a surprising amount of food!

Keeping the lights on becomes really important

…as is charging your phone or even making a coffee! How much power you are going to need, as well as in what form that power comes to you, really is a ‘how long is a piece of string?’ question. Or even, ‘what type and how much string would you like!’.

12V power is accessible from your car or caravan and is great to charge devices or operate dedicated 12V appliances. But if you have larger appliances or devices, these may well need an inverter to provide 240V.

Powering all of this will be your batteries and everyone will have a different need when it comes to the right amount of storage you can call on.

Head torches are for exploring, not for seeing your way around a dark caravan that’s run out of power! 

How much lighting you use, the number of devices you charge, how often you open the fridge and the size and shape of that fridge will all impact your need for power. You will need to ensure you have enough batteries and enough solar to keep it all operating.

Generators are another option to keep the lights on, although you may not be able to use them at all campsites or only at particular times.

Unplugging devices that are on standby and charging devices during the day when the sun is out, will help to save your power for the essentials overnight.

Even the locals might wonder how you source electricity when off-grid camping.

Plan your meals wisely

Depending on how long you plan to be away for, and how many mouths you have to feed will impact the number of meals you can take along with you. Some travellers can pack up to four weeks worth of groceries with them at a time, which is really helpful when headed for remote locations.

Some go a step further and cook up and pre-package their own ready-made meals. If driving for hours and then hitting the kitchen isn’t your idea of fun, you might like to pre-prepare meals that can be reheated in a saucepan and thrown in with some rice or pasta.

The best way to know how much and what food to take is to meal plan. Make a list of what you plan to eat for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, for each day that you will be away. Be creative, and plan to eat perishable foods early in the trip, longer life ones later.

A great space saver for lunches is to use wraps instead of sandwiches. They take up very little space and will last for weeks without refrigeration. Many fillings such as meat and even cheese, can be frozen for later use. Frozen vegetables are a great alternative to fresh ones, allowing you to have access to them later in the trip or as needed.

With a bit of practice, you can become very self-sufficient off the grid.

Make sure you find that perfect free campsite

There are some great apps and books available that list or locate free camps or off-grid options on a map. They usually show toilet, shower and other facility availability.

Some states and regions have lots of options and places to stay. Many local councils are beginning to realise the benefits of offering a free camp option when it comes to attracting tourists to particular areas. Take advantage of some wonderful options, for free!

Around the coast, there are some free camps right by, or even on the beach. They simply have to be seen to be believed! In some areas, there may not be many if any free camp choices…planning ahead is the best practice, knowing what you are headed for and available facilities.

Sitting by the fire looking up your next free camp or adventure is all part of the fun.

Living away from the grid is a rewarding experience

Wherever you plan to go, be it overnight or for a month or more, camping off the grid can take you to some superb locations. It is personally rewarding knowing that you can live disconnected from the main power grid and without water connections.

There are some amazing off-grid free camps out there, and staying out there for longer is half the fun.

You can feel great knowing that you are doing your part for the environment too, whilst getting out and discovering what Australia has to offer.

What’s the longest you’ve travelled off the grid? 

The post Staying Off-Grid Longer in Your Caravan appeared first on Snowys Blog.

4WD tyre pressures are super important and need regular adjusting depending on what terrain you are driving on, how much weight you are carrying and how fast you are driving. When you actually stop and think about it, those round rubber things that your car runs on are very important. You’ve only got a small handprint size of rubber that makes your vehicle behave the way you want it to.

On bitumen, you’ll have a tyre pressure that you normally run, and all you have to do is top it up as they go down over time. On bitumen, a 4WD is the same, but that’s where the similarities end.

4WD tyre pressures are very important.

What’s makes tyre pressures on a 4WD so important?

A bitumen road is rather forgiving when it comes to providing an easy, comfortable and safe surface to drive on. 4WD’s are designed to go beyond the bitumen, where the tracks are rough, uneven, soft, muddy or full of bone chattering corrugations. The right tyre pressures go a long way to helping you safely drive through these conditions.

The wrong tyre pressures can get you stuck easily.

Traction – braking, steering, acceleration

When you’re off-road, there’s not a lot more important than good traction. No matter what motor you have, if you can’t put the power down as traction, you aren’t going anywhere. Traction is not just important for acceleration though; it’s what you rely on for braking and steering too, and you want to be able to do this without any hindrances!

Once you leave a bitumen road, the level of traction you have deteriorates. On a good gravel road it might only be a little bit, but on a heavily corrugated road or muddy track your traction can be absolutely woeful. This is dangerous. To counter the lack of traction, you should be deflating air from your 4WD.

This increases the surface area of rubber touching the ground, and recovers some of the lost traction. It also spreads the load, making the vehicle float on top of the surface better.

Corrugations need the right pressures.

Reduced stress on your vehicle

Only when you’ve been down a really rough road can you appreciate how hard a 4WD works. If you haven’t seen any slow-motion footage of a 4WD’s suspension working on rough corrugations, check it out. By lowering air pressures, your tyres help to absorb a huge amount of the stress passed upwards from the track. This, in turn, means your suspension works less hard, and everything on your vehicle has an easier ride.

Everything from the nuts holding your wheels on to electrical connections, dashboard clips and body mounts take less abuse and will last significantly longer. If you want to see the huge difference it makes, don’t lower your tyre pressures on really rough corrugations for a few km, and then deflate and see what it does. The difference is chalk and cheese. You notice it, and so does your vehicle!

Beyond the shock absorption, on soft surfaces, the correct 4WD tyre pressures make your motor work less hard. The number of people who overheat 4WD’s on a soft beach is huge, and it’s all because the motor is working harder than it needs to. Too high pressures mean 4WD tyres aren’t floating on top of the sand, and the motor needs to push sand out the way to make progress.

How hard does your 4WD’s suspension work?

Puncture resistance

4WD tyres today are much better than they’ve ever been, but punctures are still relatively common on 4WD tracks. In many cases, the puncture occurs when something sharp (a rock or stick for example) goes through the tread of your tyre. Sometimes this can be fixed on the tracks with a plug, but at the very least it’s an inconvenience.

By deflating air out of your tyres, you allow them to mould around what they are driving on, and your chances of punctures through the tread are hugely reduced.

A good set of tyres makes a big difference.

Improved fuel economy and tyre wear

Fuel economy is directly related to how hard your 4WD has to work. If you have the wrong tyre pressures (even on the bitumen) you will use more fuel, or if they are too high you will wear your tyres out unevenly.

The right tyre pressures will give you good economy, whilst protecting your 4WD and doing a multitude of other things. On soft sand in particular, if you have tyre pressures that are too high, your fuel consumption will skyrocket as the vehicle has to work much harder to keep it moving.

If you aren’t floating on top of the sand, your 4WD is working very hard to push through it, and that’s not good.

Soft sand requires low tyre pressures.

Increase your capability

If you want a 4WD that will go further, learn how to adjust your tyre pressures well. The difference that correct tyre deflation makes in relation to how far you get up a hill climb before getting stuck is truly incredible.

Lower tyre pressures give you more traction, which in turn means your vehicle has an easier job climbing over rocks or up a slippery hill climb. No doubt you’ve probably seen a 4WD stuck or struggling on the beach before? In almost all cases, this comes from incorrect tyre pressures.

If your 4WD is having a hard time on the beach, hop out and let some more air out of your tyres, and you’ll be back to cruising down even very soft beaches without much difficulty at all.

Struggling up a soft hill climb.

When should you adjust your tyre pressures?

Tyre pressures should be adjusted for each terrain that you are driving on. If you are just doing a short, great condition gravel road you can get away without hopping out, deflating and then reinflating at the end, but if you are going to be on gravel for some time, or the road is rough, soft or slippery you should be adjusting your tyre pressures.

It is super easy to be lazy and not get out to let your tyres down, but so often it comes back to bite you in damage done to your 4WD, lack of safety or you get stuck. You don’t need the perfect 4WD tyre pressures either; adjusting them every time you drive through a bog hole, or a patch of soft sand would just be tiring and impossible.

Let your tyres down properly.

Matching speed and tyre pressures

The major thing that needs to be thought of in relation to tyre pressures is speed. As you reduce the air pressure in a 4WD tyre, you should also be reducing the speed that you drive at. This is done primarily due to heat build-up, and the increased chance of a tyre rolling off the wheel.

On very rough roads, we’ve mentioned that your tyre takes a lot of the shock. It does this by allowing the sidewall of the tyre to flex up and down. This constant movement (in the thousands of times an hour) creates heat, which warms the air up inside your tyre. If you allow too much heat to build up, the tyre starts to deteriorate and fall apart from the inside out. Drive too long like this, and it will literally blow up into a lot of pieces. Not something you want, as it’s expensive and extremely unsafe.

A tyre repair kit and compressor is imperative.

Paying attention to how warm your tyres are getting is very important, and you can do this by just putting your hand on the sidewall after driving off-road for some time. If it’s more than just a little warm, you might need to slow down.

As a result of this, you should be driving at a slower speed with reduced tyre pressures, wherever you are. For very low tyre pressures like you’d have on a soft beach (10 – 20PSI) you shouldn’t be going fast at all. The general expectation is around double to triple the tyre pressure in speed. For example, if you have 25 PSI in your tyres, you shouldn’t be doing more than 50 – 75km/h. The lower your tyre pressures, the more likely a tyre is to walk off the wheel, and you’ll come to a very quick stop.

Particularly on soft beaches, avoid turning quickly and sharply, and keep your speed down. If you go around a corner quickly on the beach with your tyres down at anything lower than 20PSI, expect a tyre to come off. In some situations, this also results in your 4WD digging in and rolling, so play it safe.

Down to 10 PSI to get up this hill.

What’s the right 4WD tyre pressures?

There are so many variables here that it’s almost impossible to give a guide. However, let’s work with percentages (and remember this is general advice!). On the tyre placard, it will give you the recommended tyre pressure, which is a good starting point. Let’s say that’s 35 PSI.

 Tyre Pressure Guidelines to help you work out if you’re tyres are properly inflated

1. Dirt roads

For dirt roads, you should be lowering your pressures by about 30%. That would mean around 24 – 25 PSI.

2. Soft sand

For soft sand, around 50% is a good starting point, which means 17 – 18 PSI.

3. Mud and rocks

Mud and rocks are generally a little higher than this, but it does hugely depend on your individual setup.

Find your tyre placard on the driver’s door pillar.

Tyre pressures change

Lastly, be aware that tyre pressures change! As your tyres get warm, the air pressure increases. If you start off in the morning on a soft beach with 16 PSI in your tyres, and it gets to be very warm in the afternoon you may find your tyre pressures have increased to around 20 – 24 PSI. It might not seem like much, but it’s the difference between sinking like a rock and having no issues floating on the top.

4WD tyre pressures are super important for many reasons, so next time you head off-road have a good think about them and set them correctly. See you out on the tracks!

Have you ever got yourself into a tricky spot because of the wrong tyre pressures?

The post Guide to 4WD Tyre Pressures & Why They’re Important appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Whilst camping might be considered a simple way of holidaying or living, things change as you start to play a Tetris-like game of fitting it all in!

Tubs become your new best friend when caravanning or camping, especially with 3 boys!

Smart packing and storage can make a massive difference to your trip. A place for everything, and everything in its place. A neat and organised space means you can spend more time exploring or relaxing, and when you need to reach for something, you’ll know exactly where it is. So, here are our 7 caravan storage tips for life on the go.

Before you hit the open road, have a think about what you really need to take with you and how it all might fit in.

1. Only take what you need

This one might seem obvious, but it’s amazing how those ‘just in case’ items add up. It’s a popular belief that when caravanning or camping that every item must be dual purpose, and this certainly helps a lot when you’re trying to cut down what you’ll take in your caravan or camper.

Lay out all the items you need, then aim to halve the lot! Do you really need that backup bottle opener or extra saucepan?

We used to try to take it all, but we soon learnt getting it in the first time doesn’t mean it will fit on the way back!

2. Organise your gear into categories

You want to be able to locate your items as quickly as possible when you need them. Grouping them into categories for storage means you know exactly where something will be. Consider your kitchen, bathroom, clothes, shoes, sporting gear, tools and technology.

Next, think about how these might be best stored. This will depend on your set up and might include tubs, cupboard space, drawers, bags or space in the car.

We live full time in our van with 3 children. We have a stationary and school accessories cupboard sorted out into easily accessed tubs.

3. Tubs are your best friend

When you’re travelling in the camper or caravan, you want everything to be secure so it won’t roll or rattle around. If you are camping in a camper trailer or tent, large waterproof tubs might be best. These can be packed into a trailer and then stacked to form part of a camp kitchen or even a bedside table. If you have cupboard space in a caravan, flexible tubs are brilliant as they mould into those awkward spaces.

Tubs are great for keeping items neat and organised and can be removed to find what you are looking for, fast. Even kids find tubs easy to use, as they don’t have to pull out everything, every time.

We use small tubs like these throughout the caravan. These are our bathroom and toiletries tubs, safe and secure.

4. Think about where you will keep your shoes

Shoes need to be treated separately to clothes. They can be bulky, and most likely, at some stage will be smelly! We’re a family of 5, living full time on the road, and pairs of shoes swiftly add up. Many people prefer to keep them outside the caravan or tent, as this keeps the floors clean and the odour out!

However, there is nothing worse than a missing shoe that was flung away or discarded at the door. This can also be a tripping hazard. Consider a tub to place shoes into, preferably with a lid to prevent unwanted bugs, or worse, slithery friends making your shoe into a cosy home overnight.

Limit the number of pairs of shoes, remembering that when camping, you will often live in your favourite pair of runners, sandals or thongs for the majority of a trip.

We have a shoe tub we keep by the caravan door. It also houses sporting equipment for easy access.

5. Setting up your outside space

A huge part of camping is spending time outside. Your outdoor living space is central to camping. Consider if you will set up an outdoor kitchen, dining or living area, and how you will use the space. If an outdoor kitchen is important, consider a portable pantry and washing up space.

These can also double as storage when travelling and can be made from tubs or other items you already have. Remember, every item needs more than one use! In a caravan, items may be stored securely beside, under or at the end of a bed, and taken outside upon arrival.

When we camp in tents we set up our gazebo as a camp kitchen. Everything lives in tubs making it easy to move around and secure from unwanted pests.

6. Don’t forget wall space in a caravan

Every nook is important when setting up an organised camping space. Walls are no exception. No, we’re not talking about an art or photo gallery (although that would be nice!). Walls are great for hanging hats, bags, remote controls, even brooms and mops. There are a huge amount of hooks, both screw in and removable stick on hooks, that can be used for almost any purpose. The limit really is your imagination!

Sticky Velcro is brilliant for remote controls and walkie talkies, keeping them secure whilst travelling. If your caravan came with a lot of keys, think about how you might store them on the walls for easy access.

Get creative, office supplies can be used to store technology and travel magazines. We have even used bicycle drink bottle holders next to the kid’s beds to prevent drink bottle spills. If there is a gap, use it!

We’ve never used so much Velcro! Remote controls, walkie talkies and a whole range of other items can be stuck to the walls to keep them in place, but readily accessed.

7. Be creative

There are lots of nooks and crannies in cars, caravans and campers. Think about wasted space and how you might be able to use it. You can also be creative with other items, like your bin bag.

We use our bin bag to store all of our water and grey water connections. There’s still room for rubbish too, so when we visit national parks we can take out what we bought in.

Bin bags can be used as additional storage for things like grey water hoses. We use ours for that and taking out our rubbish when visiting free camps or national parks.

Storage for a camping trip is more about every item having a safe space to be kept, and less about keeping something ‘just in case’. Of course, emergency first aid and repair items are necessary, but when it comes to clothing, kitchen items and entertainment, only take (and keep) what you use regularly. Generally, we need less than we think.

Everything should have 2 uses. Yep, that’s our dishes tub and our awning pole currently in use as an ‘octopus retrieving system’.

8. Remove clutter

If you find yourself not using something, make a note to leave it out next time. If you are travelling long term, try to donate it if possible, or bin it if you have to. Carrying items that you are not using creates clutter and adds unnecessary weight.

Try to keep it simple when getting outdoors. Nothing beats a beer and a firepit at sunset!

9. Be flexible with your storage options over time

Your needs may change over time, so be flexible with your storage options too. Remember, camping is about simplifying, so reduce what you have, always keep it in its spot, and spend more time doing what you set out to do without hours of unnecessary tidying up.

If the boys keep catching whiting like this we can definitely cut down on the food we take along!

An organised space makes for a quick pack up and set up too, This means you have more time to get out and explore, sit down to read your favourite book…or have a sneaky sunset fish!

What are your great storage tips when caravanning or camping? 

The post Caravan Storage Tips for Travelling Families appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Before you head off into the unknown, here’s our 10 must-haves for your next caravanning adventure.

Owning a caravan means camping in style, but simply hitching up and heading off into the unknown isn’t the end of it. If you want your weekend away or a longer getaway to be a success, here are our 10 must-have items for your caravan kit:

Some of the best locations in Australia are off the beaten track. With our 10 must-have items, you can see them in the comfort of your caravan.

1. Spirit Level or Levelling Device

You’ve found the perfect spot. You may have even whipped out the compass to check the sun’s path over your new-found campsite. The caravan is backed in perfectly.

But wait there’s a problem! Your van is on a lean, and the shower door won’t stay closed! Or, the water in the shower cubicle just won’t flow down the drain. You’re not level, and you really need to get it right.

Of course, when it comes to being ‘level’, there is such a thing as too level. You will want to have a gradual fall to allow water runoff from your roof or awning. Overall though, you will want a fairly level caravan to ensure doors close and remain closed, and the water in the shower exits well.

A spirit level to check your left to right and front to back levels will pay for itself. There are also more advanced pieces of technology available that enable you to digitally identify your caravan’s position. Check out our full article on levelling & positioning your caravan or RV.

Some of the best campsites also pose the biggest challenges to the positioning and levelling of your caravan.

2. Levelling Ramps & Chocks

The next part is attaining that level caravan. Sure, you could dig some holes and roll into them, but really all you’re doing is damaging the campsite for the next group. Perhaps the caravan is positioned on a bit of a hill, so levelling it and then keeping it levelled will be important.

You have a number of options when it comes to levelling ramps. There are kits that include chocks, multi-part ramps, or devices for gradual adjustment. Your goal is to lift your left or right wheels to match the other, and by having a levelling ramp you can achieve this with the help of a levelling device mentioned above. Once in position, use a chock to ensure nothing moves.

Levelling ramps and chocks, as well as a good jockey wheel support, will help keep your van level & secure in position.

3. Jockey & Stabiliser Supports

Always check the ground on which you plan to position your caravan. If it’s a little soft, or perhaps rain is threatening, your jockey wheel or stabilisers may sink into the ground. This can cause problems for keeping your caravan level or, when it’s time to hitch up again, your jockey wheel may have sunk too deep into the sand or mud.

Use a broad support pad to support your jockey wheel, and even your stabilisers when required. This can be as simple as a piece of wood to distribute the weight over a broader area, or a UV stabilised plastic pads.

Once your caravan is set up, there are some amazing sites to see. But how can you be comfortable exploring, whilst leaving your van behind in a remote location?

4. Hitch Lock

Some of the best campsites we’ve been to with our caravan have been pretty remote. No campground manager, no ranger, and sometimes no other campers around. You’re going to want to explore… but what steps can you take to ensure your caravan is where you left it when you return?

A hitch lock is an inexpensive device to deter amateurs or opportunists. Secure the hitch lock to prevent someone hooking up and taking away your home!

Winds can be fierce, dual guy ropes or ratchet straps at the ends of your awning will help keep everything in place.

5. Guy Ropes or Ratchet Straps & Fixings

Australia is a massive island, and some of the most stunning campsites overlook our beaches. With some of our mountain ranges and outback camp spots in the middle of nowhere, this puts you right in the path of some pretty strong winds.

We’ve had friends who have lost their awning to strong gusts of winds, basically bent over the top of the caravan! Your awning should be secured using guy ropes or ratchet straps to ensure it stays where it should. We like to use two at each end, and have seen our awning withstand some pretty strong winds.

Good quality matting will help keep your caravan clean.

6. Matting

If you’re avoiding caravan parks and heading into the unknown, there’s a good chance your front doorstep is going to cop either sand or mud! Having good quality matting out the front of your caravan is the perfect counter to a dirty or sandy caravan.

We like to have matting the full size of our awning. This creates our living room, providing a clean area to sit down and relax or to put on and take off footwear before entering the caravan.

We are yet to find two caravan parks or campgrounds with the same systems or connections in just under 6 months of full-time travel!

7. Hose Connections

If you are staying at caravan parks, be prepared! When it comes to water and waste connections, we haven’t seen one caravan park the same in our 6 months on the road. Some are positioned close, some far, some at the back, the front, or the side.

Some have small outlets, high outlets, small tap connections, or large. Having a variety of hose lengths and connections will mean you can hook up your water and drain your grey water with little trouble.

Purchase or create your own water tank filling device. This one is made of food grade hose and brass tap fittings.

8. Water Filling Device

If you are remote and plan to stay, you will need to be able to bring water onsite to your caravan. That might be containers, a bladder, or even a larger water tank in your car. Even just filling your caravan’s water from a tap is an art in itself.

When we bought our caravan and filled it up for the first time, we ended up with water all over ourselves. Enter the water filling device. This can take a number of different forms, but it allows you to transfer water into your caravan tanks without wastage.

We’ve seen them made from watering connections, rubber stoppers, different pieces of hose, and everything in between. The premise is a longer piece of hose that enters deep into your water tanks, allowing air to escape and water to flow in without surfacing again until the tank is full.

A good wheel bin bag is a great solution to pack out your rubbish.

9. Wheel Bin Bag

A key requirement when entering our national parks and low-cost or free campsites is to take your rubbish with you. So many times already we have been to some magnificent sites, only to be disappointed by the sight of rubbish strewn about.

A wheel bin is perfect to add to the back of your caravan, let alone 4WD. We use ours to store our caravan hoses and connections to keep them draining and dry, and when we are remote we use it as a secure rubbish storage space.

Kangaroos and other native Australian animals are very clever… so having a robust bag with zips is essential to prevent them from invading! Then, when heading out of the site, pulling up and disposing of your rubbish responsibly is easy too.

Getting up to your solar panels to keep them clean is really important, so a ladder is a must-have.

10. Ladder

When we first purchased our caravan, we were told we had to carry a ladder with us. Our instant thoughts were, ‘surely not’…but as we’ve travelled, the ladder has become a must-have item and the last on this list to discuss.

There are two main uses for our ladder. The first is for cleaning our solar panels. Side note – when off-grid camping, solar is a must! We use it to run our fridges, power devices, cool us down with fans and to run all of our lighting at night. But a dirty solar panel is really ineffective and, especially around Australia, it doesn’t take much for them to become dusty. Every 2 to 3 days, we climb up to clean our solar panels for the best chance of maximising our power capture.

We also use the ladder to help us keep the car and caravan clean. It allows us to get up and into those hard to reach spots, also handy for various maintenance tasks like fixing a lost screw in an awning, or reaching a stuck skylight.

None of the above are included with a new caravan…

…and more often than not, a ‘new to you’ caravan won’t include them either. We’ve been on the road for a while now and, in our opinion, these are essential ‘must-haves’ for the perfect caravanning trip!

What are your ‘must haves’ for a great caravanning adventure?

The post 10 Must-Have Items for a Successful Caravan Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Your shower is pooling up, perhaps even overflowing. The shower door nearly took you out on the way in. You’re in a ripper camping spot, but despite clear days, you’re hardly getting any solar. You want to sit outside, but there is little privacy and you can barely get your awning out.

All of the above are symptoms related to not getting your caravan or RV level or in the right position. There are several things you need to think about as you move into a campsite, and some tools you will need to get that perfect camping experience.

Levelling is all about position. 

How to choose the perfect caravan or RV site

Obviously, you need to assess if your caravan, camper or RV will fit onto the site. Beyond this, there is far more to consider. Which way is north? Will the sun be shaded during the day as it traverses from east to west?

If you have solar on your caravan or RV, you’re going to want to make sure it gets as much sun as possible. The ground surface is also important. What is it made of, will it drain or can you secure an awning into it? Could it get muddy when wet, or are pests such as ants present?

You’re also going to want to consider privacy if there are neighbours around, and if you can get your awning out and perhaps your TV or satellite dish up. Also, a flatter site is generally better. But the best locations are never as level as you might like!

There are a few things to consider when choosing a site. 

Why levelling your caravan or RV is important

Your caravan or RV will rely on being level for a number of reasons. Some 3-way fridges need to be level in order to operate efficiently. Your plumbing will certainly need a level caravan, but you’re also going to want to sleep comfortably without all of the blood rushing to your head! Your cupboard and shower doors will operate better on a level surface too.

Sure, you can pull up and rough it occasionally, but if you’ve gone to the trouble of investing in a caravan or RV to avoid a tent, why not get it right for maximum comfort.

Levelling will make your set up so much more comfortable. 

Tools to help get your caravan or RV level

There are a number of different tools you can use, but really the key ones are a spirit level, some levelling ramps and some chocks to keep your caravan or RV in the right location.

The concept is that your caravan should be level from left to right, as well as from front to rear. A small spirit level, either a hand one or perhaps one mounted to your drawbar, is all you need to get the right information on how your caravan sits.

Levelling ramps are the bare minimum when it comes to levelling your van. With the information gained from your spirit level, you can apply these to the right or left of your caravan or RV to adjust as needed.

Once level, that’s when the chocks come into play. Bear in mind, none of this comes included with your new caravan or RV! Additional tools you can utilise are stabiliser pads and perhaps a shovel for digging down as needed.

A spirit level is a key tool you need for your caravan. 

The perfect process for levelling your caravan or RV

Once you have your caravan or RV site chosen, the first thing you are going to want to do is check if it is level. Ideally, working in a pair is the go here, with a driver in the vehicle and the assistant helping to make it all happen.

Step 1:

Check the left to right level first. This is the one that is adjusted through raising or sinking the heights on one or both sides of your caravan or RV. We’ve had situations on sand where we have had to dig down, but more often than not you will be wanting to raise one side to bring the van level. Once identified, apply your levelling ramps or dig just in front or behind the side needing adjusting.

Step 2:

Have your driver move the vehicle or caravan up onto the ramps or into the lower area. Do this slowly, and then check to see the result. You may need to adjust the process or height multiple times to get it right. Once you have left to right sorted, its time for the front to rear.

It’s best to work in pairs with a driver and an assistant with a walkie talkie. 

Step 3:

You now need to unhook your caravan to be able to adjust the front and rear levels. Using the jockey wheel, raise or lower the front, as needed.

If you have a motorhome, you can achieve this in different ways, some are automatic, but likely you will need to adjust the front or rear wheels with your levelling ramps as needed to get it right. Either way, adjust the motorhome or caravan so you can get the front to rear level.

Step 4:

Chock the wheels and deploy your stabilisers. Your caravan or RV will need to be chocked to keep it from moving, and to stop the side to side rocking as you move about. That’s it, your all set to enjoy your home away from home, anywhere.

After you’re done, make sure you chock the wheels of your caravan or RV. 

Pro tips from the field

Sometimes getting your caravan level starts well before you start the steps above. Choosing the right site and the right position of your van in that site makes all the difference.

We’ve been on the road now for over 3 months full time in our caravan, moving every few days around Australia. We have quickly learnt that before we pull into a site we check it out to identify the lie of the land, spot areas that we should avoid, and sometimes even take advantage of.

In our experience, walkie talkies the best method to make all of the above work seamlessly, the car UHF radio paired with a small handheld for the assistant providing feedback to the driver.

What are your tips for getting that perfectly level caravan or motorhome?

The post Levelling & Positioning Your Caravan or RV appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Along with the growth in caravans, is the increasing range of accessories you can have fitted to your van. One very popular accessory is the roll out awning.

They are fitted to the side of the caravan and are great for protection from sun and rain, and can be rolled out, or in, very easily.

However, while they give protection from above, there is little protection from the side or ends of the awning.

An awning is just one of the accessories you can purchase for your caravan. 

How to figure out what size you need

There are many different manufacturers offering many different styles and sizes. Sunscreens or privacy screens offer additional protection and privacy and come in different sizes to suit different size awnings. But what size do you need? Firstly, you need to find out what size awning you have, not what size caravan.

Manufacturers usually fit awnings to suit the size of the caravan, but sometimes caravans of similar sizes will have different size awnings. This is because of factors such as the position of doors, windows, and access doors, etc, that may be the result of different layouts in the caravan.

Measuring your awning

To measure your awning, first, get someone to help you and get a tape measure that it is long enough to go from one end of the awning to the other.

You then measure from the centre of the front leg to the centre of the back leg, and you should have an imperial measurement in whole feet. E.g. 10 feet, 11 feet, 12 feet, etc.

Roll out awnings primarily come from America are made in imperial measurements because America has not yet moved into the metric system.

You could then use a conversion table to convert the imperial measurement to metric. The sunscreen will be approximately 200mm to 250mm smaller than the awning measurement.

Measure from the centre of the front leg, as in the image above. 

Here’s an example

To give an example, a 10 ft awning in metric is 3.05 metres, the sunscreen to suit that awning would be 2.8 metres.

Most retailers will have the sizes already listed. All you need to do is give them the awning length and they can supply the appropriate size sunscreen.

The sunscreen comes with a spline sown into one side along the length of the fabric. This then slides into a groove (sometimes called a rope track or sail track), that is in the roller tube of the awning. It can then be stretched out and pegged down to give you both shade and privacy.

All roll-out awnings and sunscreens have universal splines and grooves, so it doesn’t matter what brand you have, they should all fit.

Choosing a privacy screen for the end of your awning is pretty straightforward.

What do I need for the ends of my awning?

For the ends of your awning, this is super easy. You simply choose one that suits either a pop top or a full-size caravan, depending on what type you have. The end screens will fit either end and are attached to the awning stay via Velcro straps or some other method. Then, like the side, they are stretched out and pegged down.

Sunscreens often come in different percentages of shade, like 70%, 80%, 90%. But mostly they are 90% and are usually silver or black.

So, if you are looking for some extra sun protection or extra privacy, check them out, you may find them a useful accessory for your caravan or pop top.

What’s the best accessory you’ve purchased for your home away from home?

The post Caravan Sunscreens – What Size Fits My Awning? appeared first on Snowys Blog.

There was planning involved, of course, but there is only so much you can prepare for. Most things are learnt on the road, so here are some things I wish I’d been told…

From our first days on the road, we’ve made a few changes since then.

Be prepared for the good and the bad

Bad stuff happens. Always know that it’s likely and be prepared for it to hit you at the worst time. Sometimes the bad stuff just keeps on happening and it feels relentless. We rolled our boat trailer after a very smooth three months on the road and then everything just started unravelling. Little things became big things and it hit us very hard.

There’s no such thing as a dream run, but you just start to forget the bad stuff when the good stuff piles up. It’s amazing how quickly you move on, we have had too many good experiences to dwell on the bad.

Always keep backups and spares

One day you will run out of gas halfway through cooking a meal and wish you had a little back up one. So invest in a backup or just get your bottle filled sooner rather than later. We have figured out how long our bottle lasts now and we just fill it every three weeks, no questions asked, no guessing how much is really left.

Stock up on windscreen patches. Road trains throw some mean rocks. We currently have four patches holding our screen together, that’s a lot better than having four windscreen changes.

Sikaflex, a heap of ratchet straps, some cable ties and a bit of duct tape will get you out of some very sticky situations. These and a thick branch have helped us limp our boat trailer to the nearest town multiple times now.

Get to know your vehicle and your new home

Get to know your car and whatever you are towing. I really wish I had some more mechanical knowledge. Luckily, Max doesn’t mind pulling stuff apart and trying to put it back together again. Max could build his own boat trailer (can you tell our trailer is our biggest problem?), he has pulled it apart that many times.

Getting bogged can bring out the best and the worst in people. Swear words, innovation, frustration, hard work and a few more swear words come hand in hand. What a wonderful way to test a relationship, digging your car out in forty-degree heat with flies in your mouth.

Use a walkie-talkie to communicate with your spotter when the tracks get sketchy. And learn your left and rights, I still haven’t done that yet.

Tyre pressures are key. Don’t be afraid to spend some time inflating or deflating, depending on conditions, it makes for a much smoother ride. Yes even in a 2WD you can adjust your tyre pressures for a safer and nicer drive down those corrugated roads.

Don’t draw the line at a cordless drill, take some tools and know how and where to use them. It is amazing to have met some people who aren’t travelling with any tools at all, none. After a few long days on dirt tracks, the car is vibrating apart and every bolt needs tightening.

You don’t have to have the perfect set up

I’m sorry, but you don’t have to have the perfect setup, but just go anyway. So many people are too busy planning they forget their goal. Make do with what you have and just build as you go.

The cheap stuff won’t last out here. Invest a bit more money to avoid buying gear twice.

How to use social media to plan your trip

Social media provides a vast library of places you may want to save to your itinerary. Just remember that photos can be edited and some places may not live up to your expectations or the hype they get.

Don’t get overwhelmed by stories you hear on social media and all the stuff they tell you that you NEED. Figure it out as you go. Keep in mind that social media is now a major advertising platform. For the Cape York section of our trip, we found it very hard to sift through the information to get the appropriate advice.

Try to find people who have done it before, have a similar 4WD experience as you and talk to them in person. It’s the best way to get valuable information.

Social media can be deceptive when planning your trip, so do your research. 

Little luxuries

A hot shower is so underrated. When you finally have instant hot water running over your body after a few weeks of bucket baths, you will understand that you took it for granted.

The feeling of clean sheets is almost unexplainable. It is a lovely thing to switch out the sheets that have become a beach of sand and feel smooth cotton under your body.

You have packed way too much, trust me. Take a step back and look at your car, is it sitting a bit heavy the back? I already know the answer. We were the same. We have a monthly clean out now because you unknowingly gather new things. Get rid of what you don’t need.

You’ll wonder why clothes are even made in white. If you are not dirty, you are not living. It is impossible to keep anything clean.

A hot shower will soon become a luxury.

Camp diet

Sriracha is a game-changer, making all food taste great since, well, whenever it was made! Some days you won’t have access to fresh food and it comes time to work through your non-perishable back-up foods. Cover it in Sriracha and nothing is bad. Mee Goreng is the only two-minute noodles you need, the rest are just child’s play.

Australia and the weather

Do you know how big Australia is? Because it is big, very quickly you will probably realise you need more time to travel this big continent.

It gets cold in the Top End in the dry season, and it gets really cold down south in the winter, and a whole other level of coldness in the desert on a winter’s night. I had to get a snow jacket in Alice Springs and ended up wearing it for three months straight, well into a South Australian summer. Crazy!

Rain is better than wind. At least when it rains you have almost no other choice than to stay inside. But wind just ruins a good day and makes you feel guilty about not wanting to go adventuring even though it is sunny.

Australia has it all, the landscapes, the weather, the extremes of seasonal change, the wildlife, the activities…I could go on. There is something for everyone and every desire. I can’t understand why anyone wouldn’t have a dream to travel Australia.

Corrugations become the soundtrack to your life. I wish I knew the onomatopoeia for the bumps of a red dust track.

Funding the dream

There is always work available if you are willing to do it. A couple of months of work can lead to several more on the road.

Sometimes gravel pits are pretty lovely places to set up camp, and very free which can help you save some money. We were a bit opposed to camping in gravel pits when we first started. But one night in far north Queensland we had no other choice, and let me tell you, there is nothing quite like the 5-million-star view you get from a quiet patch of dirt in the middle of nowhere.

Make the most of the opportunity

There’s no time like the present, do it now whilst you are at your most youthful. I always think about some of the things I may not have been able to do as age sets in. Get out there whilst you’re nimble and energetic.

It pays to be a morning person, to beat the crowds to the tourist hot-spots and have them to yourself if only for a while. But fear not you will naturally start to live by the sun and the stars in due time.

This is your chance to do what it is you truly love, all the time. Fishing, hiking, meditating, driving, cooking, swimming, photography, writing, painting, dancing, being. Do that thing you love and do it on a weekday.

Are you planning on packing up and hitting the road permanently?

The post What I Wish I’d Known Before Starting Life on the Road appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Leaving the daily grind behind to relax and explore is hugely important for your sanity as much as your health! However, the limiting factor for most is balancing the cost of the holiday with where you want to go and what you’d like to do. Unless you’ve found a tree in your backyard that sprouts dollar bills (please hook me up if you have!), you’ll have to do the ‘finance balance’ like the rest of us!

Going camping locally is one of the most affordable holidays around.

A Holiday Doesn’t Have to be Expensive

Holidays are usually quite pricey.

Or are they?

If you decide to have a simple camping holiday, they can become the ultimate economical trip away. In terms of ‘bang for your buck’, camping is a fantastic way to have a much-needed break away without denting the bank balance.

There are a variety of ways in which you can save a fortune by camping, as opposed to through alternative holiday options.

The Initial Investment

Before we jump in, it’s important to first acknowledge that to head away camping, you do need some gear.

How much you spend and what you get depends entirely on what you want to do and how often you’re going to head away. If you’re someone who loves camping, spending a bit of money initially will pay itself back many, many times over.

If you haven’t done much camping before, head away with friends or borrow gear before you commit to spending a heap of money on camping gear. You’ll develop an appreciation of what’s actually needed and some confidence knowing that what you buy is going to get used.

I’ve been camping for as long as I can remember and have spent a fair chunk of money setting up our 4WD and camper trailer. That said, we would’ve spent a small fortune on our holidays if they hadn’t been based around camping.

Initially, you may have to invest in gear but it will allow you to explore further.

Why is Camping More Affordable?

1. Accommodation

The first, and primary way camping can save a heap of money is due to the accommodation price difference. Camp for free or at low-cost campsites across a huge portion of the country.

Most national parks and shire run campgrounds are only $5-15 per person, per night. That’s a pretty hefty saving – and even if you throw in a few powered campsites in nice caravan parks at $35-50 a night from time to time, you still walk away miles in front.

Excluding plane flights, the difference in what you pay each night is usually the biggest indicator of which holiday is lower in price than the other. There are a number of families currently travelling around Australia on long-term holidays spending less than $150 a week on accommodation costs! That’s substantially less than what you’d pay for an average mortgage living at home!

I will quickly mention here that if you are not savvy with where you stay, camping fees can also be very expensive. Some caravan parks are easily $100 a night for a family, so take your time to find a good value-for-money campground!

You save so much money when you stay at a campsite or caravan park.

2. Food Expenses

When camping, the price of food is fairly similar to what you’d spend at home. You don’t have the luxury of being able to cook hugely fancy meals, so food is usually simple, quick, and easy. You won’t find too many campsites next door to fast food eateries either, which means your budget for food bought from restaurants and cafes is dramatically reduced.

Cooking on a gas burner is relatively inexpensive – or, if you want a free option (and a fire ban isn’t in place), there’s nothing better than food cooked over a fire!

Of course, the more remote you go the more it costs to purchase food – but it still tends to be comparable to that at home.

Being able to cook over a fire means tasty meals, and less spent on food.

3. No Flights

Camping is usually done within a relative distance from home. Flights cost a fair chunk of money, which remains in your back pocket when you keep to your own backyard.

That said, flying somewhere with your camping gear and hiring a vehicle in some cases is a similar price to driving your vehicle to your interstate destination.

Walyahunga Park is a great spot near Perth, so you don’t have to get on a plane for a trip.

4. Slower Pace

When camping, everything is naturally done slower and more considered. You need time to set up camp, travel, and move. If you want a cup of tea or coffee, there’s usually no running water or electric kettle – so you have to work a little harder to get it. That’s alright though… it always tastes better anyway!

There’s also less free time available to spend money, and that’s a good thing for your back pocket too.

Exploring places is free, such as Thursday Rock along the Holland Track.

5. You’re Away From the Shops!

If you are beach camping on the south coast of WA, there’s a pretty good chance the nearest shops are at least 50km away. If there’s nowhere to spend your money, that money is going to stay with you!

Basically – you pack everything you need, and if you forget something you do without it. There’s no ducking down to the corner store to pick up odds and ends. The little shops soon add up!

The Stockland Gully caves are one of the sights we’ve seen on camping trips.

6. Camping is the Adventure

There’s something amazing about camping – it’s an adventure in itself. There’s no need to pay for entertainment when you’re camped on a beautiful beach, or next to a gorgeous river. Setting tents up, sleeping under the stars, sitting around a campfire, fishing, exploring the area, and appreciating the wildlife is what makes camping such a great experience. As they say – a change is as good as a holiday!

These days, most of us live in a concrete jungle that doesn’t change much. Just being out in the bush amongst nature is a very welcome change. Australia is one of the most amazing places in the world in terms of things to see and explore, and camping is one of the best ways to get out and see it all.

With amazing coastlines such as this – what more could you want?

How to Keep Your Camping Costs Down

If you do enjoy camping as an alternative to other holidays, there are plenty of ways you can reduce the costs of the trip. Camping should be simple and straightforward, and the cost to do it reflects this.

1. Avoid Expensive Accommodation

I mentioned above that accommodation costs will be the biggest expense when camping. Taking the time to find economical campgrounds will save you a fortune. WikiCamps is the best way to do this – an app under $10 that will change your camping life!

Do your research and find the best-priced campgrounds for your trip.

2. Travel During Off-Peak Season

Holidaying outside of school holidays and public holidays will save you a substantial amount of money in caravan park fees. National Parks tend not to change, but many campsites will also have a ‘peak’ and ‘off-peak’ season with different pricing.

3. Travel Slower

The faster you travel, the more it costs. Those who cover a small area over a long period of time do so very economically. Fuel costs are reduced, and you actually cover the area properly as opposed to only experiencing the major (and often expensive) attractions in each place.

Take your time to enjoy an area, that way you get the most for your time and money.

If you spend a fair chunk of time camping, being self-sufficient will save you huge money. Not having to pay for a powered site, or needing the toilet and shower facilities of a caravan park can save you hundreds of dollars a week.

Things like water tanks, solar panels, batteries, portable toilets, fridges/eskies and 12V lighting allow you to camp comfortably off the grid, which in turn results in the availability of much more affordable campgrounds.

A 12V fridge allows you to travel longer, and camp in better-priced campgrounds.

5. Buy Good Quality Gear – Once!

We are all suckers when it comes to a good deal – but don’t compromise on quality. I’ve been caught out several times buying lower-priced gear and having to replace it not long after. Research the products you buy, and look for a combination of good value-for-money and quality – and you’ll have it for years to come.

If you do the maths, high-quality gear will save you in the long run.

For some people, living out of a swag 365 days a year would be a dream come true. That doesn’t have to be your dream though, and there’s no reason why you can’t split your holidays across both lower-budget getaways and more glamorous trips.

All in all though, camping is a fantastic way to have that much-needed break on a budget.

Ben and Lauren also chat about how to camp on a budget on the Snowys Camping Show podcast:

How often do you head away camping? Do you do it for the financial benefits or because we have so much to enjoy in Australia? See you out there!

The post Why Camping is the Ultimate Affordable Holiday appeared first on Snowys Blog.

When it comes to choosing a campsite, do you prefer a caravan park or a bush camp? Both have their pros and cons, but they are vastly different in everything from price to facilities, location and ease of access.

What’s a bush camp?

Some people don’t like the term bush camp because it brings to mind a patch of dirt in the middle of the bush. Of course, there are campsites like this, but bush camping basically covers free and low-cost camping anywhere in Australia. Many bush campsites have great facilities, and some have none at all.

There are thousands of beautiful bush camps around Australia’s huge coastline or lining pristine rivers and lakes. National Parks in Australia showcase some of the best parts of the country and are full of bush camps that are used by thousands of people every day.

Private property camping in the South West. Photo: Aaron Schubert.

What are the differences?

1. Price

By far and away the most common talking point around caravan parks and bush camps is the difference in price per night. Bush camping is usually free and up to around $15 per person per night. There are some exceptions to this, like the many stations along the Gibb River Road which charge around $20 per night, but on average they are much less than caravan parks.

Caravan parks are businesses, and obviously are more expensive. Some cheaper parks charge $20 – $35 per night for an unpowered site, but the prices only go up from there. I’ve seen some caravan parks charging $200 a night for a family of 4 on a powered site.

One thing that does vary a lot is the peak and off-peak pricing for caravan parks. Bush camps tend not to fluctuate as much (if at all), so regardless of when you travel the pricing is always the same.

Bush camps can be a free or low-cost way to explore Australia. Photo: Aaron Schubert.

2. Location

Caravan parks are located all over the country, but obviously, they are restricted to where they can build. Small towns often don’t have caravan parks and the bigger the town the more caravan parks on offer. Some caravan parks are located next to beautiful beaches, rivers and inlets, but many are further back and in town.

A lot of bush camps are closer to nature as there are fewer restrictions. You can camp on that beautiful beach, or right next to a stunning river. However, you won’t find a bush camp anywhere near a town, as it competes with the caravan parks.

Likewise, bush camps aren’t usually near restaurants, cafes, shops, fuel stations and the rest of the usual facilities in a town or city.

View of the beach from a caravan park in Broome. Photo: Aaron Schubert.

3. Accessibility

By their very nature, bush camps are located away from the hustle and bustle of life. There are a lot of bush camps that are accessible via bitumen road and require a few extra minutes of travel to get there. Some are gravel roads only, which greatly reduces the number of people who visit, and then you have the real bush camps that are accessible only by 4WD, boat or hiking.

In my experience, the harder it is to get to a campsite, the fewer people you will see there, and usually the cheaper (mostly free) it is. In many cases, the overall rating of the campsite seems to go up too!

Bush campsites are harder to access, but they offer more privacy and seclusion. Photo: Aaron Schubert. 

4. Facilities

Some caravan parks are fairly simple – toilets, showers and BBQ’s. On the other end of the spectrum, you have those with huge entertainment areas, camp kitchens, giant inflatable pillows, water parks, playgrounds, swimming pools, on-site entertainment, tennis courts and the list goes on.

Caravan parks cater for those who want to arrive, set up and relax, without having to worry about sorting their own amenities out. Generally the more facilities, the more you pay, but location also plays a huge role in price.

Bush camps are at the other end of the spectrum. Many remote camps don’t have any facilities at all. Those that are relatively popular usually have a long drop toilet, and then it gets better from there. Some have fresh water, eco-toilets, camp kitchens, BBQ’s and even hot showers!

If you prefer to have access to facilities, caravan parks are the way to go. Photo: Aaron Schubert

5. Security

Feeling safe and comfortable when camping is important. Caravan parks provide a sense of security as you are located near plenty of other people, the gates are shut and security/police services are always available should something go wrong.

Bush camps don’t have this, and a lot of people don’t feel comfortable camping away from others. If you can find campsites that are relatively unknown, you’ll create your own sense of security.

Theft is always an issue for those travelling, and in some cases, caravan parks are worse, as they are a thief’s dream. Wherever you stay, be sensible about how you do it –  don’t leave anything valuable out, lock your doors where possible and use common sense.

If you don’t enjoy complete seclusion, caravan parks may be the way to go. Photo: Aaron Schubert.

6. Space and population

Caravan parks are limited on space, and as a result, campsites are usually much closer together than bush camps. A big caravan park site might be 8 metres by 4 metres, with the next site right next door. Bush camps can be substantially bigger than this, with neighbours at least 15 metres away, but with most much further apart than that.

I much prefer to camp where I can’t hear anyone else!

Space is one of the bigger limitations In caravan parks. Photo: Aaron Schubert

7. Comfort

There is something about a nice, clean grassy site for camping. Gravel and sand can get old, and your choices for grass when bush camping is usually pretty limited.

Caravan parks often spend a lot of time keeping their campgrounds looking pristine and ensuring that campers are as comfortable as possible. Water is on tap at each site, and trees often provide great shade.

Washing facilities are easily accessible, along with various entertainment options for kids. There’s no doubt camping at a caravan park provides a greater level of ease and comfort.

Caravan parks offer a few more comforts, such as toilets, showers and often entertainment for the kids. Photo: Aaron Schubert

Where are bush camps?

National parks are probably the best-known bush camps in Australia. They tend to cost around $7 – $15 per person per night, and usually have toilets and BBQ’s available. They are often located in some of the most spectacular parts of Australia.

Station stays and private property are a fantastic way to camp on a budget, whilst maintaining some of the facilities that campers love. A lot of stations are opening up to campers as a side income, and they’re almost a split between caravan parks and bush camping, with low pricing but great facilities.

Shire run campsites are spread all the way around Australia and tend to be very cheap to camp at, and out of town by 15km or so. Some of these have great facilities, whilst others have toilets and that’s about it.

Farm stays on private properties are one of the options you have for bush camping. Photo: Aaron Schubert

Preparation for bush camping

If you want to bush camp, it’s up to you to make up for the missing facilities. If there are no toilets, you need to bring one (or learn to bush toilet). Then there are showers – you have to bring one too, along with the water required. If you want power, you either need a generator or solar and batteries.

There are a lot of things you can do to become a self-sufficient camper. These can cost a fair bit of money to set up, but once it’s done you can effectively travel around Australia on a shoestring budget for accommodation and camping fees.

Bush camping does require self-sufficiency, so that’s something to keep in mind. Photo: Aaron Schubert

Finding the best campsites

The trick to finding the best campsites is to spend the time looking around. Wikicamps is the best $8 you will ever spend on anything camping related, as it shows you thousands of options.

Make sure the campsites suit your style of camping – the more research you do, the more enjoyable your stay will be.

Also, ensure you’re allowed to camp in your chosen location as lots of people get caught and fined for camping where they aren’t allowed to.

Take your time to find the best remote sites to camp on. Photo: Aaron Schubert. 

What’s best then – Caravan parks or bush camps?

In essence, bush campsites are cheaper, quieter and closer to nature. This comes at the cost of being harder to access sites and having fewer facilities.

Of course, I can only generalise in this post – if you find a bush camp with lots of facilities at a fraction of the cost of a caravan park, then hold onto it!

I prefer bush camps as you really get away from it all and save a packet in doing so. That being said, we often make use of caravan parks too, as it’s nice to have a good hot shower, a swim in a pool and have somewhere to do your washing.

Stay where your budget and comfort requirements allow – just get out there and explore this magic country!

So, which side of the fence do you sit on? Bush camps or caravan parks? 

The post Caravan Parks vs Bush Camps – Which is Better? appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Generally, caravanners stick to sealed roads as rough outback roads can take their toll on the average caravan. With a bit of extra care, some simple preparation, and knowledge of your vans limitations, you can take a conventional caravan off the blacktop and into the great Australian Outback.

A Smaller Van is a Better Tourer

Because of their size and lack of manoeuvrability, large vans can create unwanted hassles. Poor ground clearance and overhang both in front and behind the axels often results in the van scraping over washouts or gutters, while the extra weight causes problems on soft or slippery surfaces.

A Standard 2WD Car Won’t Cut It…

Lack of ground clearance and traction means they will struggle when things get rough. A four-wheel drive, even an SUV type vehicle offers far more reliability.

Remember the tow vehicle must always have the appropriate ratings to tow your van, no matter what roads you are on. Plan for increased fuel consumption, and get both your vehicle and caravan serviced before you go.

Slow Down – Speed and Rough Roads Don’t Mix!

Trying to skip over corrugations may work in your vehicle but not for the caravan.

A caravan suspension is different to your vehicles, and it will handle bumps differently. There is a risk of the van bouncing and skating sideways, especially on corners. Even on good dirt roads I rarely travel over 80kph as the risk of losing control is far greater on loose surfaces regardless of your vehicle type.

Some caravans just aren’t made for outback roads.

Invest in Good Tyres

(and a second spare for your van and vehicle)

Check with your tyre dealer if an all-terrain tyre can be fitted to your van. These tyres tend to be taller, give extra ground clearance and offer better sidewall protection. Make sure it fits in the wheel arch and that your van can legally accept the larger size. Lowering the tyre pressure to suit the conditions will give a better ride.

Take a good jack that suits your van, and a base plate for use on soft ground. Some vans require the jack to be located under the chassis rather than the axle, meaning the jack has to lift the van higher to get the wheel off the ground.

There Will be a Risk of Flying Stones…

Invest in a good set of mud flaps on your vehicle and an appropriate stone guard on the caravan, get some good advice on this, as the wrong stone guard can cause stones to ricochet back into your vehicle.

Look under your van for any cables or plumbing that need to be secured well up out of the way from flying stones or sticks. Fit a stone guard to the water tank making sure it protects the front, sides and wraps around the bottom of the tank.

Pack Carefully

Make sure nothing rattles about, check that all the catches on cupboards, drawers, doors and windows are in working order. Heavier items like the microwave and onboard batteries need to be held firmly in place.

If you have a TV mounted on the wall, take it off and put it somewhere safe. Keep the weight down to a minimum. Only take things that you know you will need, not just because you can fit them in.

None of these preparations will turn your standard caravan into an off-roader, so at some stage, you may have to decide if the road is getting too rough and you have to turn back. There are some vans that are simply not suitable for outback roads.

Take your time, enjoy the outback and you will have a great holiday.

Do you have any tips for fellow travellers planning on hitting the dirt for their next touring holiday?

The post Caravanning in the Australian Outback appeared first on Snowys Blog.

A long-anticipated caravanning and camping trip was planned to south-west Western Australia. Six weeks of touring around, no bookings, just follow our whims. Bliss! First stop Port Augusta, and a chance to catch up with our daughter and grand-kids.

Just an overnight stop so the van was duly backed into the driveway – we didn’t even need to disconnect from the vehicle. We would be sleeping in the van and heading off first thing next morning, so nothing needed to be unpacked.

Big mistake number 1!

We woke the next morning to find the driver’s side window smashed and everything of value gone.

Everything included:

• 2 cameras
• 2 laptop computers
• 1 tablet computer
• 1 mobile phone

And we were asleep in the van no more than 3 metres away when all this happened! Scary. Normally we never leave valuables in our vehicle overnight but on this occasion, we were slack and paid a heavy price – over $7000.

Well, what now? Ring the police. Ring the insurance company. Surely we are covered for the damage to the vehicle and theft of property.

Big mistake number 2!

Not having the best coverage for the situation. Vehicle insurance covered replacement of the window and contents up to $750, but with a $400 excess.

Our home contents insurance covered gear away from the home up to a value of $2000 – the maximum possible coverage was $5000 but we had not taken that option.

The bottom line – we were about $4000 out of pocket.

So, the lessons were tough, but what have we learnt?

• Take the maximum insurance cover for unspecified contents away from home – we now have the $5000 maximum cover
• If you are travelling with very expensive equipment, maybe a very expensive camera, cover it as a specified item
• Don’t take as much expensive equipment with you
• Don’t leave expensive equipment un-accompanied in a vehicle.

It is very easy to be wise after the event and easy to become a little lax with your security arrangements.

Knowing that 7 other vehicles were broken into that evening was little consolation, although the local glass repairer was doing good business. Apart from the angst that came from the incident, the inconvenience was considerable.

Instead of heading west, it was back home to sort out insurance and replace equipment. The west will have to wait for another day.

But… there was 1 thing we did RIGHT! 

All data was backed up to an online backup system. So, although it takes time to set up a new computer with all of your software, at least you know that your valuable files, photos, music and family videos can all be retrieved.

We also had all of the stolen items well documented on our computer, and therefore backed up. An insurance claim is made much easier if you have clear evidence of ownership and value. This is easily done with the following:

• receipts – scan onto the computer so fading is not a problem
• photographs – take photos of all equipment and annotate with make, model and serial number
• instruction manuals – these are a good proof of ownership.

Have you ever experienced this situation? Did having this documentation reduce the pain?

The post Does Your Vehicle Insurance Cover Theft? Check Before Your Trip appeared first on Snowys Blog.

True Aussie RV Etiquette

The good news is that about 80% of caravaners usually return a wave, provided you’re driving a van as well; guess the other 20% don’t understand true Aussie RV etiquette. Interestingly on Kangaroo Island just about everyone waves, a very friendly island that.

The hireable motorhome brigade don’t seem to wave to caravaners, we’ll assume they aren’t just snobs but are new to the country and just haven’t been told.

Is it right that both passenger and driver wave (must be a really boring stretch of road)? Maybe we should even wave into the mirror, just in case they missed the first one.

The thumbs up

Then, of course, the good old thumbs up must rate, but I generally do this when I encounter the same vehicle as mine or I like the look of an oncoming rig, or pimped up tow vehicle.

We could even get carried away as we pull into camp and raise the hand in a drinking motion to indicate we need a drink and happy hour is near. Okay, we are selective, we usually only wave to caravaners, but I reckon it’s time to change. Keep the kids happy and play a game, wave to red cars, or yellow, or blue … whatever.

Mix it up

Mix it up and confuse people. Break the barriers and wave to motor homes or camper trailers or even the lonely truck driver.

Invent new waves, what about a two finger walking motion to fellow hikers. Or moving the hand in a circular motion to vehicles with bikes on top. Swap the wave and see what get’s the best result.

Don’t forget that you don’t have to be on a long journey, you can even wave when travelling in the suburban jungle on your way to Snowys. A simple wave when someone lets you in or on a narrow street and someone pulls over to let you through.

Obviously, make sure you have full control of your vehicle and it’s safe to wave.

C’mon, follow a little highway etiquette – Let’s raise the wave! We’re interested in your wave technique, any helpful hints and what’s your return rate?

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