Port Augusta to Lyndhurst (297km)
135 years ago, visionaries dreamed of a ribbon of steel linking the north and south of the country. Called the Great Northern Railway, but later simply known as ‘The Ghan’, the first sod was turned at Port Augusta on the 18th of January, 1878.
Those visionaries wouldn’t have envisioned that the first passenger train undertaking the journey from Port Augusta to Darwin wouldn’t arrive until the 4th of February, 2004 – 126 years after construction began. I guess you can’t rush these things!
For the adventurous traveller interested in a very significant part of our history, the section of this railway between Port Augusta and Alice Springs provides a brilliant insight into the hardships and magnificent achievements associated with this engineering masterpiece.
A significant length of the railway runs alongside another great Australian icon, the Oodnadatta Track. Even though this track does not officially start until Marree, the Old Ghan began its often arduous journey from Port Augusta.
Conditions of the Track
Luckily for the modern day traveller, this trip is pretty easy going for anyone with a 4WD or SUV, with the dirt section of the track north of Lyndhurst being well maintained.
The only exception to this is with the advent of rain when the track can become quickly impassable and is closed by the road authorities to prevent damage.
Caravans set up for dirt road travel should not have too much trouble, although corrugations can be rugged at times. Camper trailers are a common sight along the track.
Once you reach Oodnadatta there are several options if you wish to continue on to Alice Springs, however, to follow the Old Ghan route requires high-clearance, dual-range 4WDs. Fortunately, there are other options.
Travelling the Oodnadatta Track is a surprisingly accessible adventure and this extensive blog will provide you with the information to confidently give it a go – it’s your one-stop shop for a successful trip!
Significance in Australian History
This trek can immerse you in some of the most significant aspects of Australian history. The rich indigenous culture can be discovered, particularly in Port Augusta, Marree, and Oodnadatta. The ochre pits just north of Lyndhurst are a graphic reminder of the aboriginal trade routes that crisscrossed this area and the importance of these coloured soils in aboriginal culture. This is the area covered by John McDouall Stuart on his famous attempt to cross the continent from South to North, and return successfully.
It is along this route that the groundbreaking Overland Telegraph Line was established, with some of the telegraph stations still standing and accessible. The Old Ghan railway line is now largely gone but the embankment and regular station and siding ruins will be a constant reminder of the enormous feat of engineering involved in making this connection to Alice Springs.
One can only wonder why it took another 100 years for the connection between Alice Springs and Darwin to be made. You don’t have to be a history buff to appreciate the incredible achievements of the indigenous and European peoples who settled in these areas.
What Will You See?
From the top of Spencer Gulf to the northern section of the Flinders Ranges, a few days can easily be spent exploring museums, rail heritage, and some magnificent natural beauty. Port Augusta is a major centre and the last opportunity to stock up on provisions at the major supermarkets and variety stores in town.
This town is also a major rail hub servicing the passenger and freight services north to Alice Springs and Darwin, west of Perth and east to Sydney. The enormous coal trains from Leigh Creek pull in daily to the major power station that provides much of the power for South Australia.
Once past Hawker, the magnificent Flinders Ranges rise to the east and flat desert country disappears to the horizon in the west – what a contrast. The old Ghan Railway runs right along this section, crossing the road in a couple of places.
The ruins of station buildings and sidings are quite obvious and worth a poke around. The famous Prairie Hotel at Parachilna beckons, especially if you can time your visit around a meal break. You won’t be hungry after a meal at an FMG (Feral Mixed Grill).
Copley also has a good pub and excellent caravan park. Grab a quondong pie from the bakery – delicious! Just a little further you come across Lyndhurst, and it’s time to say goodbye to bitumen.
The Towns
Port Augusta
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Wadlata Visitor Centre and Museum
A wealth of information can be found here, together with an excellent display of outback heritage and indigenous culture that will set the scene for your upcoming adventure.
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Arid Lands Botanic Gardens
Stroll through the garden and learn about the flora that you will encounter on your trip. You’ll gain an understanding of how these plants survive in such a harsh environment.
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Port Augusta Railway Station
All trains, both passenger and freight, pass through the station – great for trainspotters. For a ride on what is left of the old Ghan line, hop on a historic Pichi Richi train that leaves from here on some weekends. See here for details.
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Gladstone Square
The Historic heart of the town is now a beautiful park flanked by the old courthouse and surrounded by the CBD. This is a significant area for the local indigenous community with an interpretive pathway detailing indigenous involvement in the area.
Quorn
Quorn was a major siding on the original Ghan Railway and is now home to the Pichi Richi Railway that uses lovingly restored engines and rolling stock that once travelled these lines to take passengers on a trip into yesteryear. Again, see here for details and timetables.
Around the town are some great old buildings that hark back to the days of steam trains and a bustling rail centre. Take a walk around, you won’t be disappointed.
Hawker
Another station on the old Ghan railway, Hawker boasts a well-restored railway station that is now a restaurant and gallery. Hawker is also the gateway to the Flinders Ranges with Wilpena Pound, the heart of the Flinders, only 55km away.
Parachilna
Even if you don’t arrive here at meal time, pop in and have a look at the Prairie Hotel. There is usually some magnificent artwork on display and a coffee, cool drink, or ice-cream may well tempt you.
The Prairie is famous for its menu of feral food – so give a go to a camel burger, kangaroo steak, or perhaps a goat pie! Keep an eye out for the massive coal trains that go past twice daily.
Leigh Creek
This town was built solely to support the workers at the nearby Leigh Creek Coalfields. There are a few shops, petrol station, tavern and a caravan park, but not much else.
Copley
A stop on the old Ghan Railway that also supported the early days of the coalfields, this town is a little gem, particularly if you are looking for a place to stay overnight. The caravan park is excellent, with cabin, caravan, and camping sites, and the owners are extremely hospitable. In the cooler months, an evening campfire is provided where you can sit around, chat, and meet fellow travellers.
The park also operates the bakery, where some delicious delights are to be had. The pub is just down the street and a small store can provide basic provisions. Fuel and mechanical assistance is also available.
Lyndhurst
The last stop on the bitumen, Lyndhurst is also the turning off point for those travelling the Strezlecki Track. This is a tiny settlement with a few houses, roadhouse, and a pub. For something a bit different, travel about a kilometre up the Strezlecki Track to see Talc Alf.
You will be amazed at the carvings he does in zebra stone, and you may even become caught up in quite the conversation about the ways of the world!
Accommodation
Port Augusta
All forms of accommodation, including a fairly fancy motel!
Quorn
Several hotels and motels and a good caravan park with cabins.
Hawker
A hotel with motel rooms and two caravan parks.
Merna Mora Station
Camping and cabin accommodation.
Parachilna
The Prairie Hotel has accommodation ranging from camping to cabins, hotel rooms – and a very fancy, partly submerged, rammed earth hotel wing if you want to do it in style!
Leigh Creek
A basic caravan park and motel.
Copley
An excellent caravan park with camping, caravan sites and cabins.
Lyndhurst
Lyndhurst Hotel offers hotel rooms, converted rail carriages, camping, and a caravan park.
Side Trips
The most significant side trip in this section is to the Flinders Ranges. The road to Wilpena and Blinman starts at Hawker and takes you through the heart of the Flinders and some of the most spectacular scenery the area has to offer. To get a really good feel for the area, take the road to Wilpena and then go through Brachina Gorge to meet the next section of this trek 70km north of Hawker. Allow at least several hours to enjoy this 110km detour.
Another alternative is to continue past Wilpena to Blinman and then travel through the Parachilna Gorge to re-join the main trek at Parachilna, 90km north of Hawker. This 153km detour provides magnificent scenery and a chance to look around the old copper mining town of Blinman and, if the time is right, enjoy a ‘Big Blinman Burger’ at the Blinman Pub.
Merna Mora Station has some 4WD tracks through their property, one of which will take you to Lake Torrens. There is a fee to travel these tracks, but 4WD enthusiasts may find this well worthwhile.
Just 12km north of Copley, turn east for a couple of kilometres and visit the Leigh Creek Coalfields lookout. The kids will thank you!
(UPDATE: As of September 2014 this lookout is no longer accessible.)
Along The Way
Pichi Richi Pass
The drive between Port Augusta and Quorn winds through the picturesque Pichi Richi Pass, with the old Ghan railway line your regular companion. If lucky, you may see the steam train that takes passengers between Port Augusta and Quorn.
Warren Gorge
About 10km out of Quorn, this beautiful gorge provides a nice camp spot or a beautiful picnic spot.
Gordon and Wilson
Two of the old Ghan railway sidings are just on the roadside between Quorn and Hawker and have significant ruins that are worth having a poke around.
Kanyaka Ruins
Take the signposted turnoff 32km south of Hawker to the well-preserved remains of a major sheep station.
Aboriginal Paintings
Look out for the sign and turn off about 10km south of Hawker. This will lead to a parking area and walking trail to the cave paintings. The last part of the trail is steep. Allow at least a couple of hours.
Old Ghan Railway Sidings
The old rail line runs adjacent to the road in most of this section. Look out for the ruins at Hookina, Edeowie, Brachina, Commodore and Nilpena.
It is worth getting out and wandering around at least a couple of these to marvel at the conditions of the time and also some of the beautiful stonework involved in the buildings and bridges.
Beltana
This is now basically a ghost town with only a few hardy souls enjoying the isolated life. Once a bustling mining and rail town, many of the buildings are intact and good signage explains the history. Turn off the main road 20km north of Parachilna for the 17km of dirt road into Beltana.
From there you can take the 10km road out past the Beltana Roadhouse or continue north along the 17km road through Puttapa Gap following the Old Ghan–far more picturesque.
Distances and Services
| Distance from Port Augusta | Fuel | Accommodation | Public Toilets | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quorn | 41km | U,D,L | CP,H,C | Y |
| Hawker | 107km | U,D,L | CP,H,C | Y |
| Merna Mora | 150km | CP, C | N | |
| Parachilna | 196km | CP,H,C | Y | |
| Leigh Creek | 260km | U,D,L | CP,H,C | Y |
| Copley | 264km | U,D | CP,H,C | Y |
| Lyndhurst | 297km | U,D,L | CP,H,C | Y |
N.B.: there is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst.
Download the Oodnadatta Track Distances and Services PDF
Maps
- Hema Maps Great Desert Treks – South East
- Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback
Lyndhurst to William Creek (284km)
What Will You See?
The sealed road is now behind you and for some, the real adventure begins. Moving into the heart of the South Australian outback, there is no shortage of things to see along the way, and there are some terrific places to stay overnight.
Both aboriginal and rail history feature in this section and you are now travelling along the path of the famous explorer John McDouall Stuart who, in 1862, made the first successful South to North and return crossing of our continent.
The route he pioneered was later used for the construction of the Overland Telegraph Line in 1872 and inspired the start of the construction of a south to north railway in 1878. He and his team have left a great legacy to Australia and the Stuart Highway is named after him.
During this section of the trip, you will see evidence of both of these engineering masterpieces. After arriving in Marree our trek takes us west along the Oodnadatta Track, however, Marree is also the gateway to the Birdsville Track and Lake Eyre.
Track Condition and Hazards
Generally, this section of track is in pretty good condition – but expect some stony and corrugated sections. Keep your eye out for kangaroos, emus, and wandering stock, and watch out for wedge-tailed eagles soaring above looking for their next feed.
Eagles feasting on road-kill can be a real hazard as they are reluctant to leave a feed and are slow to take off when a vehicle approaches. Slow down and sound your horn to avoid a collision.
Always travel with lights on to ensure maximum visibility. Dust often hangs and drivers often travel on the wrong side of the track to avoid hazards.
The Towns
Farina
Just 24km north of Lyndhurst the turn-off to Farina appears. Apart from the owners and staff of the nearby Farina Station, no one lives in this town. However, do not miss out on spending some time here and, if possible, stay overnight at the campground.
This town is a testament to what can be achieved when a group of civic-minded people get together to ensure an important part of our history does not just disintegrate into the desert.
You can easily spend a couple of nights here and use the day to explore the town – it is like a walk back in time.
Marree
Once a major railhead for moving stock from the surrounding sheep and cattle stations, Marree is now home to an aboriginal community and the descendants of the Afghan cameleers who moved freight around large areas of the outback.
Being the start of perhaps Australia’s most famous outback stock route, the Birdsville Track, the town is now well visited by tourists wanting to travel this route, undertake the trek to Oodnadatta or visit the shores of Lake Eyre.
A few of the old Ghan diesel locomotives can be seen in the town centre and the old Afghan mosque is just opposite the roadhouse.
Coward Springs
Not really a town, this campground situated 114km from Marree is a pretty good place to stop overnight. Established around one of the Old Ghan Rail sidings, with a couple of the original buildings being restored, this is a good place to get a good feel for the history of the area.
A museum in one of the restored buildings is well worth a look. There is even a natural artesian “hot tub” where you can soak away any aches and pains.
William Creek
Originally another rail siding, William Creek now houses a well-known pub, campground, airfield and not much else. The pub is certainly the centre of activity and a drink at the bar or meal in the dining room is something to be remembered.
Across the road from the pub is a collection of rail artefacts and space junk as this area is well within the Woomera Rocket Range.
Accommodation
Farina has a beaut campground with very reasonable fees and provides flushing toilets and a hot shower (if you light the ‘donkey‘). There is plenty of room and campfires are allowed with wood available from the nearby station.
Marree provides a good range of accommodation with caravan parks and a hotel providing everything from camping to well-appointed cabins.
Coward Springs has a well-established campground with good toilets, hot wood-fired showers, and spacious sites. Campfires are allowed and most sites have fire pits. This campground is not open in the summer months.
William Creek provides hotel and motel rooms at the pub and cabin, caravan, and camping sites at the caravan park.
Side Trips
A few kilometres past Marree is a turnoff heading north-west to Muloorina and Lake Eyre. This is a great side trip if you have the time. A reasonable dirt track will take you the 54km to Muloorina Station. Here you will find a top little campground right on the edge of a permanent waterhole.
A further 45km along a sandy track will see you arrive at Madigan Gulf on the southern shore of Lake Eyre. A vista of shimmering salt extends to the horizon. You are only seeing a tiny fraction of this massive lake. This is the site of Donald Campbell’s famous attempts at the world land speed record.
On rare occasions after several years of heavy rain in outback Queensland, you may be lucky to see water in the lake. When the lake is full it becomes a mecca for birds and tourists alike.
Another opportunity to see Lake Eyre can be found 7km south of William Creek. Here you will find the 64km track to Halligan Bay on the western shores of Lake Eyre. This is a most desolate area and the track can be quite rough, so don’t venture here unless well prepared and self-reliant.
Along The Way
The Ochre Pits
Your first stop is just 5km north of Lyndhurst. A short diversion to the west will see you overlooking the stark red, yellow and white colours of the ochre that has been of great value to aboriginal peoples for millennia. Detailed signs explain the significance of this area. It is interesting that this deposit is still used today to provide ochre needed for ceremonial purposes. Please respect this area by not venturing into the pits.
Farina
Even if you are unable to stay overnight at the campground, don’t miss the opportunity to take the short track into the old Farina township. This is only 24km north of Lyndhurst. It’s an area where you can spend at least an hour wandering around.
John McDouall Stuart Memorial
Not long before arriving at Marree, what appears to be a large cross will appear on the horizon. This is located just to the east of the road. Pull in and have a look at this memorial to John McDouall Stuart. He travelled this route on his epic trek to travel from the south to the north of the continent.
Lake Eyre South
About 88km after leaving Marree you will see the shimmering white salt of Lake Eyre South. Pull in to the lookout and information shelter to get a feel for where you are – the lowest point in Australia. You are actually below sea level.
Old Ghan Rail Sidings
There are many sidings along this section but the ones particularly worth a stop are (distances are from Marree):
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Alberrie Creek (53km)
The home of some of the most bizarre sculptures you are likely to see. See it to believe it!
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Curdimurka (104km)
The site of the Curdimurka Outback Balls of the past. Follow the track along the line past the water softener tower to see a significant bridge over the creek, the second longest on the track.
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Coward Springs (130km)
Campground and museum
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Beresford (154km)
A large dam remains, built to provide water for steam trains.
Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs
Just a few kilometres before arriving at Coward Springs you come to the turn-off to the mound springs. Drive in a few kilometres to be amazed by The Bubbler and Blanches Cup, as water from the Great Artesian Basin bubbles to the surface.
Strangways Springs Ruins
Not long after passing Beresford siding (about 10km), a turnoff to the west will take you a few kilometres into the settlement of Strangways Springs. There is a sign at this intersection, so you shouldn’t miss it.
A very important part of the development of the Overland Telegraph Line, the ruins and the springs can easily occupy an hour or two wandering around and trying to imagine life here in the late 1800’s.
The area has plenty of information boards to provide a good feel for what it might have been like.
Ways Home From Here
Heading back south is the shortest, but not necessarily the quickest way home from here. Travelling 69km past Marree will find you at the intersection of the Oodnadatta Track and the Borefield Road.
This quite good dirt road will take you the 113km to Roxby Downs. From here it is sealed road all the way to Adelaide, passing through Woomera and Port Augusta.
Just 5km north of William Creek is a turnoff to the west. This 168km section of track leads to Coober Pedy on the Stuart Highway. From there sealed road will return you all the way to Adelaide.
Distances and Services
| Distance from Lyndhurst | Fuel | Accommodation | Public Toilets | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marree | 80km | U,D | CP,H,C | Y |
| Coward Springs | 210km | CP | N | |
| William Creek | 284km | U,D | CP,H,C | Y |
N.B.: There is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst. Download the Oodnadatta Track Distances and Services PDF here.
Maps
- Hema Maps Great Desert Treks – South East
- Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback
William Creek to Oodnadatta (202km)… and Beyond!
What Will You See?
This section continues our shadowing of the route taken by John McDouall Stuart, the Overland Telegraph Line and the Old Ghan railway, at least until Oodnadatta. The track continues to be well maintained, with occasional corrugated sections and bulldust holes.
I’d recommend keeping those headlights on, reduce tyre pressures and take it easy on the speed. The Cooper Tires website has a very useful guide to appropriate tyre pressures in a range of terrains
The Towns
Oodnadatta
The namesake of this track is a reasonably well-sized town with a significant aboriginal community, government workers and business people making up the population. Among Oodnadatta’s claims to fame is as one of the hottest places in Australia – not somewhere suitable for tourists in the height of summer, but generally a delight in the cooler months. An excellent museum is housed in the old railway station and the famous Pink Roadhouse beckons for re-fuelling and an Oodnaburger and chips.
Accommodation
Algebuckina, 53km south of Oodnadatta, is the site of the most significant bridge on the Old Ghan Railway. There is good camping around the bridge area and to the east of the track along the Neales River.
Side Trips
111km north of William Creek is the 16km track to the east leading to the old Peake Telegraph Station on the original Overland Telegraph Line. There are significant remains well worth a look.
Along The Way
Old Ghan Rail Sidings
There are many sidings along this section but the ones particularly worth a stop are (distances are from William Creek):
– Edwards Creek (82km)
Look out for these ruins to the east of the track. Edwards Creek was once a major staging area on the old Ghan railway and housed a large number of rail and maintenance staff.
– Algebuckina (142km)
The old buildings are a little off to the west of the track, not long before crossing the Neales River and the Algebuckina bridge.
Old Peake Telegraph Station
111km north of William Creek is the turnoff west to the significant settlement that was the Peake Telegraph Station. This is a Public Access Route, meaning it passes through a pastoral property, so respect the track and surroundings and keep a good lookout for stock. It is important not to go near any stock watering points. The track can be rough, so a 4WD is recommended.
Algebuckina Bridge
Still the longest bridge in South Australia, this large structure took the Ghan rail line over the Neales River. At the southern end, you will see an old car wreck – said to be the result of a fool-hardy attempt to drive across the bridge when the river was in flood, only to be confronted by an oncoming train that duly bull-dozed it off the end of the bridge. On the northern end are several graves.
Ways Home From Here
A number of options are available for the traveller, depending on the time available, direction heading and type of vehicle.
If You’re Heading North…
The Oodnadatta Track continues on for 211km from Oodnadatta, meeting the Stuart Highway at Marla. From there the road is sealed all the way to Darwin. This is also a good way to go if seeing Uluru, Kata Tjuta, and Kings Canyon are on your wish list.
It is possible to continue your love affair with the Old Ghan, fairly closely following the original rail alignment through to Alice Springs. In fact, in sections, you actually drive on top of it. This option requires a well-equipped 4WD taking you through quite isolated areas.
There is over 500km of dirt track of variable condition, taking you through Hamilton Station, Finke, and Maryvale, with fuel available at Finke and Maryvale. For the really adventurous experience, take the 45km track west from Maryvale to the historic Chambers Pillar. There is a good campground at the pillar.
Again for the adventurous, take the track north through Hamilton Station and turn off west to Mount Dare 9km north of the Eringa ruins. From Mount Dare, head north on the Old Andado Track, passing the historic Old Andado Homestead and the Aboriginal community of Santa Teresa, eventually arriving in Alice Springs.
If You’re Heading West…
Oodnadatta also a major starting point for a trip across the Simpson Desert. Attempting this requires excellent preparation, a highly equipped 4WD and the ability to be completely self-sufficient (see the 3-part blog ‘Crossing The Simpson Desert‘).
If You’re Heading South…
Southwest of Oodnadatta is the 197km track to Coober Pedy on the Stuart Highway. This is a well-made dirt road and a good way to go if travelling back to Adelaide.
Distances and Services
From William Creek to Oodnadatta is only 202km, with no towns or services on this section of the track. There are numerous camping opportunities near old rail ruins and at creek crossings.
The Final Stretch: Other Considerations
Permits
No permits are required to travel or camp along any sections of the Oodnadatta Track.
Key Contacts
Outback Road Conditions:
Phone: 1300 361 033
Website: www.dtei.sa.gov.au and follow the links.
Marree Police Station
Phone: (08) 8675 8346
Oodnadatta Police Station
Phone: (08) 8670 7805
Coward Springs Campground
Phone: 08 8675 8336
William Creek Hotel
Phone: 08 8670 7880
Pink Roadhouse Oodnadatta
Phone: (08) 86 707 822
Check out our blog for tons of outback touring information, or go to our website and set yourself up to tackle the Oodnadatta Track.
After experiencing camping, and being a boy scout as a child, I developed a love of the outdoors and the outback. I’ve taken every opportunity to travel across the outback through South Australia, the Northern Territory, and down the Western Australian Coast. In more recent times, after becoming an empty nester, I have organised and led many outback trips for family members, friends and acquaintances, to explore some of the more remote places across the country.
Absolute tragedy this line has been lost forever and dug up. What is wrong with the Government? Yes upkeep of this line would be expensive and impractical for commercial use but the history behind the building of the track and beautiful areas it traversed, surely something could have been done to preserve it. South Australia you have torn away a piece of history. Could someone other than Government do something incredible and rebuild this historic line and preserve what is left? What a tourist attraction it would be instead of being lost forever. Unbelievable negligence by the Government, just impossible to believe.
Thanks for the comment Martin. I agree that it’s a pity a lot of our history is lost, and in the case of the Old Ghan, the remainder is largely crumbling away. The cost of keeping the whole line would be incredible and unsustainable, however it is great that with some Government funding and through the work of a brilliant band of volunteers the Pichi Richi railway between Port Augusta and Quorn has been refurbished and regularly runs historic trains. If you haven’t had a chance to experience this, it is well worth while.
I’ve traveled alongside much of the old track. As steam trains needed to stop every 40 odd kms to take on water, the original track had to follow water sources. As most of the line is in desert areas, this meant following springs and creeks. Washaways were common. Any time there was good rainfall, and even patchy downpours, would cause wash outs. Hard to believe, unless you can be there during these times. Hundreds of creek crossings meant hundreds of chances of railway floods and resulting track ‘disappearances’. Not to mention sand dunes burying the track in great swathes too. Following the Oodnadatta Track is a worthy trip to view where the track once went; some hamlets and buildings have been restored. The really harsh and brutal climate has taken it back.