The beautifully rugged Guy Fawkes River National Park is located in the New England Tablelands region of northern NSW. Consisting of rugged ranges, river valleys and gorges, waterfalls and creeks this park is certainly worth spending a week or two to explore.
The most easily accessible attraction in the park is Ebor Falls, located near the little hamlet of Ebor on the Waterfall way. There is an easy little stroll suitable for any fitness level linking the two viewing platforms, and a picnic area where the family can enjoy a leisurely lunch.
Ebor Falls is easily one of the biggest attractions to the park. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
An hour or so drive north is Chaelundi Camping area, accessible from Sheepstation creek road signposted at Dundurrabin on the Armidale Grafton road. This is an unsealed, rough and narrow forest road with a 50kph speed limit.
You’ll find the campground is a lovely spot high on the escarpment edge for an enjoyable stay in any weather and at any time of the year. There are toilets, picnic tables, information boards and fireplaces available. The pretty little Chaelundi creek trickles past the campsite and is a wonderful place to spend time exploring.
There are walks from the camp site to the Chaelundi waterfall, the spectacular Lucifers Thumb lookout, and various viewing points along the escarpment walking track.
There are several tracks that you can follow in the area. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
There is also a longer track option for the fit and self sufficient walker of about 30km beginning at the Combalo spur track. It takes about two hours along this track to get down to the Guy Fawkes River valley. The route then turns upstream following the river to Jordons trail where there’s a steep two hour walk back up the hill to the escarpment track returning to the camping area. To fully appreciate this walk I would allow at least two days/one night, but preferably two nights.
About an hours drive from Chaelundi along the Chaelundi road is Dalmorton Camping area. This camp site can also be accessed from the old Grafton to Glen Innes road. The camping area is a short stroll to the beautiful Boyd river where swimming, fishing and canoeing can be enjoyed.
The Dalmorton Camping area is near the Boyd River. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Dalmorton, though now a ghost town, was once a thriving gold mining and timber cutting community, and the relics of this bygone era are definitely worth spending some time to wander around.
If a truly remote experience is what you’re looking for, however, perhaps you’d like to embark on a multiple day hike from Newton Boyd, an hours drive west of Dalmorton along the old Grafton to Glen Innes road, as we did.
Camping near the river provides more opportunity for activities and views. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Multiple-day hikes
We’ve recently returned from a five day backpacking trip in the declared wilderness area of Guy Fawkes River National Park, and I’m inspired to encourage other walkers to head not for the hills, but instead toward the river valleys and gorges.
This National Park offers remote wilderness trekking through valleys and gorges. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Beginning the walk at Newton Boyd
Our walk began near Newton Boyd, on the old Grafton/Glen Innes road where we gained access to the Boyd river along an old fire trail. We then followed the Boyd to the Guy Fawkes then Sara river valley where few other intrepid walkers venture. In fact, we have never seen another walker along either the Boyd or Sara rivers during any of our walks in this region over the past five or so years.
This type of trek offers a number of advantages over other types of multi-day hikes, and presents some slightly different challenges. We also made a few small changes in the gear we normally wear and carry for remote area walking.
We started our trip at Newton Boyd, following the Boyd River. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Walking through the river valleys
The river valleys where we usually walk consist of vast areas of wild ranges bordering rugged river gorges of clear water. Smooth rock, gravel and sand form the river beds, which are usually long, shallow stretches between cool, deep water holes. Just perfect for an afternoon swim.
The clear waters of the river offer a nice view and a place to swim. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
It’s a stroll in the park
These areas are not just nice to look at from an aesthetic perspective. This type of terrain provides relatively easy walking conditions for those times when the idea of a hard slog up a steep mountain trail sounds like too much work.
Other than the initial entry/exit from the valleys, and the occasional climb up the hill for a photo, there are no steep inclines to tackle, and navigation is very straightforward. Simply follow the animal tracks along the course of the river and you can’t go wrong. In fact, some of these areas look more like a park than the wild. Don’t be fooled though, this wilderness region is isolated and remote.
Aside from the occasional climb for a photo, the terrain isn’t steep. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Water sources
The easy availability of drinking and cooking water certainly has its merits on a multi-day walk. Though still requiring treatment, the river water is cool, clear and in abundance. The combination of scenic appeal, flat grassed areas and water at our fingertips prompts many tea breaks and photo stops.
The scenic river provides plenty of photo opportunities. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Safety precautions
We try to avoid the gorge areas if rain is likely, as these are prone to flash flood events, and we set up camp out of reach of any sudden rise in river level. For obvious reasons, we also avoid any river crossings that are above waist height, where we can’t see the river bed, or where there are strong currents. We always try to cross in the narrow, clear and shallow areas.
Be careful to only cross the river in shallow areas. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Native and wild species in the area
Most water sources attract a large number of animal species, both introduced and native, so if you’re an animal lover these areas will delight you.
The occurrence of wild horses, cattle and dogs throughout the region do, however, damage the vegetation, pollute the waterways, and can drive native wildlife from the area. Although NSW NPWS are striving to address the problem, the process is a long and tough one, with vehicle access to these remote areas difficult.
In the meantime, hikers are advised to keep a respectful distance from all animals you might encounter and to treat/filter water to remove pathogens.
There are many wild and native species in the area, including horses. Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Snakes and Gaiters
The most common wildlife on the ground are snakes and goannas, but thanks to the wild grazing animals, the grass in the Guy Fawkes River area is short and sparse, allowing us to see and therefore avoid a slithering reptilian encounter with ease. If we do get a bit close, we stop and back away quietly.
Most snakes will only strike if surprised or frightened, so a bit of foot stomping is usually enough to alert them. There are, however, unlucky and uncommon occurrences of hikers being bitten. Prevention is always the best option, so you might also like to wear gaiters as protection against a bite. Research the current procedures for dealing with bites before you leave, and never set off on a remote walk without a PLB or Spot Messenger device.
Snakes are quite common around the river valleys – so don’t forget gaiters! Photo: Lauraine Deeth.
Food thieves
Goanna, Possum, and Canine species may express an interest in the food you bring along on your walk. We keep a close eye on all food bags and containers, wash pots and utensils immediately after use, and store our food bags inside our packs at night. A bag containing my mug and cutlery was taken from beside the tent as I slept, and dropped in disappointment twenty metres away when it was discovered that no food was contained within.
Dusk and dawn belong to the flying insects. To avoid this, use the red light function on your head torch (red light doesn’t attract flying insects), and use some kind of insect repellent. A mosquito net is only useful when you’re not eating or cleaning your teeth.
Keep your food sealed up to avoid unwanted attention from foragers. Photo: Lauraine Deeth
Footwear
The correct choice of footwear is critical on all backpacking trips, especially so for walks where multiple crossings are necessary. On our most recent walk, we had 14 river crossings each way.
We use a semi-flexible mesh shoe with a trail running type of outsole for better traction. Mesh allows water to escape from inside the shoe, and the sole grips the smooth rounded rocks within the river. We would never be tempted to wear a GTX or WP backpacking boot on these types of walks.
They are not only uncomfortable due to water retention, the hard durable outsole increases the risk of falls on the slippery river rocks.
Wear the correct footwear for crossing rivers. Photo: Lauraine Deeth
Gear to bring:
- Compact collapsible hiking chair – Keeps you off damp ground, and saves knee and back strain.
- Socks of wool/nylon blend – these are quick dry and won’t induce blisters if they rub against your feet when wet. Firm fitting is best.
- Hiking poles – for stability in water crossings.
- Quick dry clothing, hat and sunscreen.
- Jetboil stove, and coffee press (I can’t survive without real coffee). Fast to set up for impromptu stops.
- Water filtration or treatment tablets (we use Katadyn Micropur).
- Polarised sunglasses to see the rocks you’re walking on beneath the water surface.
- Head torch with red light function.
- I use tea tree oil as an antiseptic, insect bite treatment and repellent, and leech and tick remover.
- PLB or Spot Messenger device.
- I still carry a GPS and paper topographic maps because I like to know precisely where I am at all times.
- A lightweight backpack, tent and sleeping gear. The lighter and more waterproof the better.
Instead of heading for the hills, explore your local river on your next trip. Photo: Lauraine Deeth
Add a wilderness river trek to your to-do list
So, we know where we’ll be walking during the next spell of warm sunny weather. It’s surprising what beautiful hidden gems can be found in nearby river valleys.
I’m sure there’s a river just waiting to be explored somewhere near you.
River valleys or hills? Which is your favourite place to visit?