{"id":55096,"date":"2023-06-02T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-06-02T00:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.snowys.com.au\/blog\/?p=55096"},"modified":"2023-06-01T15:48:03","modified_gmt":"2023-06-01T06:18:03","slug":"an-adventure-through-central-australia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.snowys.com.au\/blog\/an-adventure-through-central-australia\/","title":{"rendered":"An Adventure Through Central Australia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

It was a cool, cloudy day with a fresh breeze when we found ourselves driving out of Adelaide for a long-awaited trip through Central Australia. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We intended to travel to Alice Springs via the Oodnadatta track, Dalhousie Springs, Uluru, and Watarrka National Park where we were going to visit Kings Canyon. From there, we would travel the Mereenie Loop to Glen Helen and onto Alice Springs, then return home via the Stuart Highway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My wife Linda and I were in our Land Rover Defender with our small, off-road caravan in tow<\/a>. Linda\u2019s sister Donna and her husband Bill were in their Isuzu MUX towing a soft-floor camper. Also with us was Linda\u2019s younger sister Tracey, who had come over from New Zealand to join us, and their mother Margaret. This trip had been planned for almost a year and, with the threat of COVID cancelling it altogether, the feeling we all had as we finally got underway was a combination of relief and excitement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Uluru<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We finally found ourselves driving out of Adelaide for the long-awaited trip through Central Australia.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hawker and Farina<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The first part of our journey took us through the Clare Valley, where we stopped briefly for a quick grocery shop, then onto Hawker (just south of the Flinders Ranges), where we had our first camp. Instead of cooking on our first night, we enjoyed a meal at the local pub. We then travelled through the spectacular Flinders Ranges, stopping occasionally to take some photos, and finally made our way to Farina where we camped on our second night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Our first night in Hawker.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We travelled through the spectacular Flinders Ranges, stopping occasionally to take some photos.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Farina<\/a> is a town in ruins, but thanks to the Farina Restoration Group some of the ruins are being stabilized to prevent further deterioration. It is a fascinating place to visit, where you can wander amongst the old buildings and read the information boards that explain how the town was formed, and how it was eventually abandoned. The last residents left the town in the early 80s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Camping is in the privately owned campground just past the town, for a modest fee. There are numerous shady campsites and flushing toilets, as well as a donkey shower. The latter requires a fire to be set under a boiler which heats the water, delivering a hot shower. We tried this, but the fire was a bit small and took over an hour to heat the water \u2013 so it was lukewarm. Better than nothing! It was a very pleasant evening, relaxing around the campfire beneath the billions of stars.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Farina is a fascinating place to visit, where you can wander amongst the old buildings.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You can read the information boards that explain how the town was formed.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The last residents left Farina in the early 80s.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Oodnadatta Track<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Oodnadatta Track<\/a> starts at Maree \u2013 though it really isn\u2019t a track as the name might suggest, but a dirt road that is usually open to all traffic. It can close from time to time due to rain making it impassable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The track mostly follows the Old Ghan Railway from Adelaide to Alice Springs, which was the original railway line. It began operating in 1878, with the last train leaving Maree in November 1980. There is lots to see along this track including old railway stations and sidings, as well as several bridges. The original telegraph line ran through this area as well, and the Old Peake Telegraph Station is only a short detour from the track \u2013 a very interesting place to visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Signage<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Oodnadatta Track is more so a dirt road that is usually open to all traffic. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lake Eyre and William Creek<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We stopped for lunch at the viewing area for Lake Eyre South, which did contain some water. We had been along this track numerous times before, but this would be the first time we saw water in this part of Lake Eyre. We were originally planning to travel out to Lake Eyre and camp at the Halligan Bay campground, but after checking with the rangers in Adelaide were told that the lake was drying up fast. There was therefore no water to be seen at the camping area at Halligan Bay, so we decided to give that part a miss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We did stop at William Creek<\/a> for the night and, after a few drinks at the pub, decided to book a table for a meal. The next morning, I was greeted by a flat tyre on the Land Rover. There was nothing obvious causing the tyre to deflate, so I fitted one of the two spares I carried and would look at the tyre more closely later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we continued, we passed several more sidings as well as a couple of railway bridges. We decided to stop at one to pick up some firewood. There are still lots of old sleepers along where the railway track used to go, but they are starting to get harder to find. Other travellers also collect them for firewood, and the elements are breaking them down to mostly pieces of sleepers rather than whole ones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the most popular stops along the track is at the Algebukina Railway Bridge that crosses the Neals River. It opened in 1892 and was the longest bridge in South Australia, until another bridge was built in 2014 that crossed the Onkaparinga River, south of Adelaide. There is a short walk along a boardwalk onto the bridge; it is possible to camp here, although there are no facilities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

My sister-in-law Donna, testing the water (…or mud). <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Lake<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We stopped for lunch at the viewing area for Lake Eyre South, which contained some water.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oodnadatta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We continued into the town of Oodnadatta for lunch, and checked how the road conditions were looking for the track that leads to Dalhousie Springs. We already knew the route via the ruins of the Pedirka Railway Station were closed due to flood damage, but the track to Mt Dare was open \u2013 so we could first head towards Mt Dare, then turn off just before to make our way out to Dalhousie Springs<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was some low cloud about, but the forecast was mainly dry with a possibility of 1mm of rain. We planned to camp somewhere along this road, as we were not booked into the Dalhousie campground until the next night. We did find a nice spot beside a dry creek bed that had a cleared area with plenty of room for us all. We had a small campfire and a pleasant evening\u2026 but after we went to bed, I could hear the patter of raindrops on the roof of the van. Gentle at first, but steadily increasing! This started to worry me, as I knew what it could mean to the roads. It rained on and off for most of the night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Swervy Start!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We had a cool, damp morning, so we packed up and decided to continue on. The road was not all bad at first, but we did experience a few more light showers as we went. The road then started to become rather slushy. We reduced speed, as I could feel the Land Rover starting to slip occasionally \u2013 even in four-wheel drive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We were fine for a while; travelling slowly and making progress when we came across a particularly slippery section of road. The Land Rover started to slide a little to one side, then quickly came back again. Nothing drastic, but this affected the caravan differently. A big slide first one way, then the other, pulling the Land Rover with it! This happened several times, and at one point it went completely sideways \u2013 I thought it was going to overtake me<\/em>! This could have been a disaster, but it only lasted a few seconds. As we were travelling slowly, it soon came back under control.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With my heart beating at a rapid rate, I stopped to check all was ok \u2013 then saw how much mud had been spraying up over the front of the van. I could just make out the coupling and jockey wheel under the mud. Donna and Bill\u2019s trailer was in the same state. At this point, we were about halfway to Dalhousie Springs, so we thought we would continue on rather than turning back. We reached the Dalhousie Springs turnoff and, given there were no barriers or signs saying it was closed, we turned toward Dalhousie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s when things got worse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Two<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Preparing dinner, about halfway between Oodnadatta and Dalhousie Springs.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When we turned toward Dalhousie – that\u2019s when things got worse.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Donna attempting to remove mud from her shoes. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The surface of this section consisted of a layer of sticky, slippery mud while on top of a firm surface. This offered little traction for both vehicles, and at one spot Bill\u2019s car slipped into a hollow on one side of the road! Normally, not a problem \u2013 but because the track was so slippery, there was no way he could get himself out. I was behind, so was able to snatch him out backwards. I then managed to pass him by going right up on the shoulder of the road on the opposite side. Bill then followed in my tracks, and we were both past it. At times, going up a slight rise in the road, the Land Rover would spin all four wheels with the sticky mud flying through the air and up both sides of the car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little further on, I started to feel like something was holding us back. It felt like the caravan brakes were coming on. Over the radio, Bill said he was stopping because the wheels of his camper were not turning and he was dragging the camper through the mud. We also stopped and found that the wheel arches were so full of sticky mud that the tyres were jamming up against it, and wouldn\u2019t spin!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sticky stuff!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To listen to the full story, tune into this episode of the Snowys Camping Show:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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