If you’re reading this, it’s more than likely because you’re comparing two or more portable hot water units. Hopefully, this article will help you with your choice.

Joolca makes one of the leading hot water systems for the outdoor market. Image: Joolca

This article is not intended to be biased; we don’t have anything negative to say about either product. Rather, we’ve simply set out to research and highlight the differences between these two leading portable hot water systems, as well as other options on the market from Companion.

Let’s start with the more prominent question on our minds…

The Smarttek and Joolca are the sort of showers you take camping if you can’t do without a few creature comforts! Image: Joolca

How does the Smarttek Black and Joolca HOTTAP V2 Hot Water Systems compare?

Let’s look at some of the details.

The Smarttek Black allows you to enjoy hot water in any climate outdoors. 

Raising Water Above Ambient

The Smarttek Black unit claims to bring the temperature to 42°C above ambient on low water flow and maximum heat settings in winter mode. They also have a Lite unit with a smaller heat exchanger, and a burner that can achieve almost 35°C above ambient.

Joolca, claim their HOTTAP V2 to have a maximum of 35°C rise above ambient when set on low flow and high gas, and it heats to this temperature pretty fast.

Verdict: Given both units cut out at 50 degrees (more on that below), and an ideal shower is around 35-40 degrees, both units are going to provide an adequately warm shower.

Maximum Water Temperature

There’s not much to compare here. Australian standards require these portable units to cut out at 55°C but there is a variance of around 10% for this. Smarttek has indicated 52°C to be their max temperature, and Joolca state that 50°C is their maximum. That said, we have seen Joolca units surpass this.

Verdict: Both units deliver the same maximum temperatures.

Both units have a similar maximum temperature. Image: Joolca

Which Units are Lighter?

This might not be a deal-breaker, but Joolca comes out in front at 4.2 kg. Even Smarttek’s Lite unit at 4.5 kg weighs in heavier than Joolca’s units, whilst the Smarttek Black version comes in at 5.5 kg.

Verdict: Joolca wins this one.

Flow Rate Range

The upper echelon of 6 litres per minute is the same for both brands, and is dependent of the flow rate of the water pumped into the unit. At the lower end, Joolca can be wound down to 2.5 litres per minute whilst Smarttek claim to go down a little further to 2 litres per minute.

Verdict: Smarttek have a wider range at the lower end, but we are starting to split hairs.

The Smarttek Lite is a more compact option for warmer climates. Image: Smarttek

Wind Performance

In comparison to the original version of Joolca’s Hottap, Smarttek used to perform better in windy conditions. They claim that their units are made with interlocking parts, having them rain, dust, shock, and wind-resistant. Compared to the Joolca HOTTAP, the Smarttek external casings appeared to have less or smaller vents. This, in theory, creates better resistance to the burner being extinguished by wind.

However, Joolca are a pretty smart and innovative bunch and their HOTTAP V2 is a pretty sleek unit and boasts far better wind resistance than the original, sporting separate dials for both water and flame control and enhanced capabilities when paired with the separately available, newly developed accessories. This now has both the Smarttek and Joolca HOTTAP V2 relatively equivalent to one another, in regards to how well they perform in windy conditions.

Let’s face it: no one likes their shower disrupted!

Verdict: We haven’t field tested them side by side, but from what we do know, both units perform similarly.

The Joolca HOTTAP V2 offers a 5m UV-resistant shower hose. Image: Joolca

Hoses & Accessories

Joolca provides colour coded braided UV-resistant hoses with their HOTTAP; essentially like a high-quality garden hose, and they offer a range of plumbing solutions as additional accessories. Furthermore, their Nomad kit literally comes with the kitchen sink along with a multitude of hoses, a shower rose and a tap faucet and a 12V pump so you can customise your hot water needs straight out of the box.

Smarttek, on the other hand, only offers a single 2-metre hose – but it’s a kink-free, stainless steel type that doesn’t heat up or soften when in use. If you do require a longer shower hose they offer longer hoses and adapters to enhance your setup, but the accessories are nowhere near as sleek as Joolca’s offering.

Verdict: Joolca’s range of accessories takes the cake.

Runtime

With an energy-saving ‘Summer Mode’ setting in their units, Smarttek provides users with 50 hours of hot showers from a 9 kg gas bottle on the lowest heat setting, and about 16 hours on maximum heat (i.e. ‘Winter Mode’).

In comparison, Joolca claim of about 15 hours from a 9 kg bottle on the maximum heat setting and 45 hours on low.

Verdict: Despite Smarttek claiming to have a longer runtime, given the variances in gas efficiency we put both units neck and neck.

Smarttek provides a kink-free stainless steel hose. Image: Smarttek

Included Pumps

Smarttek include either a 4.3lmp or a 6lpm pump with all of their units, while you’ll have to spend a little more on HOTTAP V2 Outing Kit to score a pump with your Joolca. The Joolca HOTTAP V2 Essentials Kit, on the contrary, relies solely on a pressurised water source, but you can buy the Offgrid Plumbing Kit separately.

Joolca’s pump, as with all of their accessories, is a far more polished product being finished off with a durable ABS plastic shell, easy to connect garden hose fittings, neat 6mm and cigarette plug DC connections, and includes a filter, weight, and basket to keep the end of the hose submerged and out of the mud whilst in a lake or stream.

Verdict: Both pumps do the job, but Joolca’s is plug-and-play fittings and weighted filter win this round.

Input Water Pressure

This is different for both brands. I thought I’d add this one in to clear up the confusion.

Smarttek claim 25-750kPa input water pressure on their units, but have only stated this upper limit to match the mains water pressure in Australia (500 kPa). However, the units have actually been cleared up to 1500 kPa.

Joolca, on the other hand, claims an input water pressure range of 70-900kPa, but I can’t confirm if they are cleared for higher than that. So, compared to Smarttek, you’ll need a higher input pressure to get the Joolca unit started, but if you are operating the unit at 25kpa you won’t have any pressure at the shower head, so it’s a bit of a moot point. 

In the borderline-impossible instance that your shower is connected to a fire truck, or other ludicrously high-pressure water supply, an overflow valve kicks in on the Smarttek units to prevent damage. I’m all but certain that the Joolca units feature the same type of valve, but we are being a bit silly here.

Verdict: Even-steven on this one, the upper and lower limits don’t really matter.

The HOTTAP V2 Outing Kit includes a 12V pumping kit for drawing water from any source. Image: Joolca. 

Technical Support

Both Smarttek and Joolca sweeten the deal with their product support.

From 9:00am until 5:00pm, five days a week, you can call the Smarttek helpline on 1300 119 906. There, you can speak to a technician who, 90% of the time, will be able to get your shower up and running again.

We always found Joolca to offer excellent product support, their website is also loaded with help articles and FAQ’s. They offer a text line for support (0488 845 868).

Verdict: Both brands offer excellent after sales support.

Testing Cycles

The Joolca units may be tested a few more times than Smarttek test theirs. Whilst Smarttek say their units have been tested in excess of 12,000 cycles, Joolca pips them at the post by claiming 15,000. Either way, both units have been tested to the equivalent of over 30 years of daily showers!

Verdict: Joolca win, but you’ll have to do an awful lot of showering to test the limits here.

Warranties

Last of all, Smarttek back their Black unit with a three-year warranty, whilst Joolca offer two. That said, Smarttek’s Lite unit only comes with a 1-year warranty. 

Verdict: Both brands offer a quality product, we don’t recommend making a warranty period the deciding factor for you here.

Joolca tests their units 15000 cycles. Image: Joolca

So… which portable shower is best?

Well, by buying either, you’re guaranteed access to their respective helplines whenever needed. Overall, both units achieve what most campers are looking for: a reliably hot shower, and the versatility of using water from both mains water supply as well as the option to pump water from rivers, lakes, or just out of a bucket. Joolca’s product is far more polished and has a myriad of optional accessories.

Verdict: Both units provide a reliable hot shower, but Joolca’s well considered accessories and kits makes it a standout when it comes to versatility and ease of use.

Both units provide a reliably hot shower and the option to pump water from rivers, lakes, or just out of a bucket! Image: Joolca

What about the Companion AquaHeat?

Now that we’ve pulled the fine details apart for the high-end units, you may be wondering how they compare with others on the market – like the Companion AquaHeat Lithium Gas Shower.

In a nutshell, this unit offer better all-in-one portability, with an integrated rechargeable Lithium battery and the option to operate on disposable propane cartridge as well as ULPG bottles. This makes them easier to move around the campsite.

…But the buck stops there!

Despite being more portable these units offer lower flow rates and shorter run times. For a basic, less-bougie, pared-back shower without all the bells, whistles, and embellishments – Companion also offer the Rechargeable Camp Shower, the 12V Shower, and the 12V High Volume Camp Shower.

The Companion AquaHeat is another portable shower option. Image: Companion.

I hope this was helpful. We’d love to hear your thoughts on what you think the best portable shower unit is.

The post Smarttek Vs Joolca: Comparing Two Hot Water Heavyweights appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Which one really is the best portable fridge?

Rather than listening to stories about someone’s mate’s uncle’s neighbour that had a fridge that didn’t work very well… let us take you through some key differences, so you can make your own assessment.

Which Fridge is More Reliable?

• When it comes to reliability, Engel tends to come out on top. With a company history spanning over 50 years, it is not uncommon to hear of an Engel still functioning after 40 years.
• The Engel is built with a steel exterior, and there are plenty of stories about Engel fridges surviving endless outback tracks, falls from the back of Ute trays, and vehicle rollovers.
• Don’t believe us? Check out this magic machine, owned by Snowys blogger Bob West. When this photo was taken, it had  almost been 30 years of living in the back of a mate’s farm ute – often not tied down, always uncovered, and out in the weather. Its bruised and battered facade is deceptive, continuing to spit out delicious sandwiches and cold drinks in the tough Flinders Ranges environment. This photo is a testament to how tough these fridges are:

30 years old, battered, but still working – a legend in reliability. Image: Bob West

• With regards to product development though, Dometic has been leading the pack. Unfortunately, this has made them the guinea pigs when it comes to new technology.
• In the early days, Dometic were not known for their reliability – but on our experience, the Dometic CFX range looks to be changing this.
• After chatting with one of Adelaide’s leading fridge repairers, it seems the Dometic CFX is tremendously reliable, especially in comparison with its older CF counterpart.

Features?

• Both fridges have battery protection and the ability to set the temperature.
• Both fridges will run from 12 or 240V.
• The Dometic has a built-in bung for washing out the interior, making it easier to clean.
• The Dometic CFX range has elements that are flush with the sides, while the Engel cooling elements are attached to the side. The latter creates a gap that is hard to clean.
• Dometic features a USB output, so you can charge mobile devices or lighting etc.
• Dometic also features wireless technology and an app, so you can control your fridge from your smartphone.

The Engel MT-V45F 40L Fridge Freezer. A fine size for an outback 4WDing trip or long weekend away.

Power Draw?

Power draw is extremely variable as there are many factors to consider, such as:

• The ambient temperature
• Which setting you have your fridge on
• The contents of the fridge, and how cold was it before you filled it
• How often you open the lid

Find out how to increase your fridge efficiency here.

Let’s assume both fridges are operating in identical conditions, and power consumption is calculated as an average over 24 hours. Both are current 40L models.

• At low ambient temperatures (20-30 degrees), both fridges will use similar amounts of power and both are considered very economical.
• When the temperature heats up (40+ degrees), the Engel will start to use more power than the Dometic
• For the reasons outlined below, the Engel will still use a little more power – but not as much as previously thought.
• The Dometic is still one of the most efficient fridges on the market.

Why Does Engel Use More Power?

• The Engel compressor uses less moving parts, making it very efficient in cooler conditions.
• Their compressor is limited to a maximum 2.5amps per hour.
• This design means it can run out of puff very quickly. Before long it will be flat-out trying to stay cool, and will remain running almost constantly, using more power over a 24-hour period.
• Engels are made from metal, so they are very strong. The downside is that metal conducts more heat than plastic, and it’s much harder keeping a hot, metal box cold than it is to keep a plastic one.

Why is the Dometic so Efficient?

• Dometic use a variable speed compressor that has the ability to work harder in the hot conditions.
• This allows the fridge to cool down quickly so it can turn itself off and ‘cycle’, which reduces the average power consumption.

The popular Dometic CFX3 35 Fridge Freezer 36L. Ideal size for a couple travelling on an extended camping trip, or even a weekend.

Where are Engel and Dometic made?

• Engels use a Sawafuji Swing Motor, which is made in Japan. The fridge/freezers themselves are made in Thailand.
• Dometic fridges are made in China and used to have the German “Danfoss” now known as SECOP compressor. The CFX range runs a new compressor developed by the brand, also made in China, called the VMSO3 (Dometic proprietary Variable Motor Speed Optimization).

The Verdict

Not many adventurers would be disappointed with either of these fridges. There is a lot to be said about Engel’s reliable history, but you pay extra for this and meanwhile sacrifice a little on efficiency.

You may not have the same reliable history with a Dometic CFX yet, but the efficiency, functionality, and lower price tag mean they’re great value for money.

Some believe that the Dometic out-spec the Engel on paper, and appears to be much better value for money. Snowys blogger David Leslie says he has owned a Dometic since 2010 and it has never missed a beat – and uses less power than his mate’s Engel every time (which he loves to hear about).

For more information, read more from David Leslie on how to power your camping fridge for longer, and a guide to help you purchase the right portable fridge for you.

The post Dometic vs Engel – A Campfire Debate appeared first on Snowys Blog.

So in this blog, we’ve made our list, checked it twice, and tagged every item with a competitive price! From Kris Kringle gifts with a $20 limit, to the bigger gifts you’ve been saving to splurge on – start filling the sack with the gear, gadgets, and rugged gifts for the outdoorsy people you love!

The range of hats from Sunday Afternoons are as cool as the new kids on the (sun)block! Image: Sunday Afternoons

For the Kids Who Kick Back

Under $50

• Sunday Afternoons Hats: Up to $26.94

As cool as the new kids on the (sun)block, the range of hats by Sunday Afternoons feature wide brims and polyester-nylon constructions to wicks away moisture. Stain-resistant for those fun-filled days running amuck, they beat the grub and grime like water off a duck’s back!

Keep the little ones from getting too hotheaded, owing to a certified UPF 50+ sun rating too. Plus, thanks to reversible designs for sun-safe versatility, and breakaway chinstraps that release under pressure – your kid can keep their chin up until sundown.

For the kids who like to kick about at the shack, stuff their stockings with compactly-packed Sunday Afternoons hat!

• OZtrail Junior Moon Chair: $40.40

A crevice for your camp critters, the Moon Junior Chair is designed for children’s safety.

Its easy Grab and Go straps allow the gremlins to go, go, go – while the drink bottle holder allows easy-reach refreshment. With wide arms for supplementary support and a locking pin to prevent unplanned folding up, the OZtrail Moon Junior Chair offers a considered yet comfortable cranny for curling up.

Keep the little ones from getting too hotheaded, owing to a certified UPF 50+ sun rating. Image: Sunday Afternoons

For the Campfire Feasters and Heat-and-Eaters

Under $100

• Offgrid Provisions Meals: Up to $18.99

Forget wrapping paper – rip open a bag of getaway grub from Offgrid!

Founder James Viles had a hunger to discover the undiscovered, but a desire to do so in a slow, simplified way to appreciate time spent outdoors. With refined ingredients, he redefined food the alfresco way – connecting people, food, and nature with the Offgrid Provisions range.

Made for the meat-eaters and vege venturers who want to lift their degustation game, these meals are all-natural, Aussie-made, and designed to heat and eat for simple, alfresco-style sustenance! Be you crouched at the campfire or behind the kitchen bench – simply drop into boiling water for five minutes, or tear at the top and microwave like the most full-bodied, flavoursome Christmas stocking on the fireplace.

Simply drop into boiling water for five minutes, or tear at the top and microwave. Image: Offgrid Provisions

• ‘Fire to Fork’ Cookbook: $35.90

In his popular campfire cookbook, YouTube legend and resident king of campfire cooking, Harry Fisher from Fire To Fork, maintains a focus on simple meals made over a fire with high-quality ingredients.

From holidaying on the beaches in the Kimberley to homestyle cooking in your own backyard, the book features over 60 recipes, including some from his most popular YouTube videos. Plus, benefit from information on the tools needed for your camp kitchen, how to prepare your fire, and advice for stocking your on-the-road pantry!

In his popular campfire cookbook, YouTube legend Harry Fisher maintains a focus on simple meals made over a fire. Image: Harry Fisher

• CampBoss Jaffle Iron: $44.90

It’s time to officially take care of the suppertime snacking, with the CampBoss Jaffle Iron!

From the long arms for safety from campfire flames, to the timber handles for limited heat transfer – this jaffle iron harnesses the heat and beats the burn! Be it Bolognese, baked beans, and savoury combos, or chocka-block sweet concoctions – simply line the crater with two slices of bread or pastry, and fill with desired ingredients for the ultimate hot food pocket or campfire pie.

Take the colour, craft, and convenience of cooking from the backyard to the outback!

• Campfire Combo Camp Oven: $89.90  

Crank the heat, because Campfire’s Combo Camp Oven is tougher than damper crust.

Boasting a top-quality cast-iron construction for impressive durability and longevity, a deep-dish dome design, and a shallow, heavy-duty base for even heat distribution – this oven offers versatility on every cooking adventure. Pre-seasoned too, carry from under the Christmas tree to the campfire coals for immediate use.

From casseroles and bakes to dessert damper and cakes, the Combo Camp Oven cooks your camp tucker with alfresco finesse!

Love cooking with a camp oven? Check out Cam’s Camp Oven Turducken & Gravy!

For the After-Dark Dabblers

Under $100

• XTM Performance Cora Headband: $5.00

Speaking of wrapping presents – wrap your head around the Cora Headband.

Your headwear henchman for keeping the heat in, its supple chenille construction and fleece lining keeps cold weather off your mind. Kick it to the peak in chic cable knit, and rock across the mountain top with stylish metal branding. As a certified carbon neutral product too, it’s the eco-friendly thought that counts.

• MPOWERD Luci Lanterns Range: Up to $69.90

The Luci range from MPOWERD provides practical and ambient lighting for your alfresco space. Solar powered with the option of a traditional outlet for convenience, some host a USB port to boost the charge of your mobile phone when other power sources are scarce. From sufficient charging in direct sunlight, to water-resistance, battery indicators, and long-lasting light – the outdoor lanterns are fit for both indoor and outdoor activities, while string lights blend convenience and atmosphere to any communal setting.

Boasting low, medium, and high mode options for different applications, the Luci lanterns and string lights offer illuminated ambience from the backyard to the outback.

The Solar String Lights by MPOWERD provide practical and ambient lighting for your alfresco space. Image: MPOWERD

• Coleman Hybrid Hooded Sleeping Bags: Up to $55

The Hybrid Hooded sleeping bags by Coleman keep you snug on those sub-10 and sub-0-degree getaways! Featuring a Comfort Cuff design for surrounding softness, this bag boasts homelike qualities. A snag-free ZipPlow zipper allows for safe, easy opening and closing too, while the separate foot zip mediates the temperature surrounding your extremities. Plus, for a streamlined packing process too, Roll Control prevents the bag from skewing and twisting – working with the QuickCord no-tie closure for efficient fastening.

Bag a bargain with the Hybrid Hooded sleeping bags – designed for sublime outdoor dreaming in colder conditions.

Eat with elegance on every alfresco escape. Image: Opinel

For the Compact Campers

Under $150

• Opinel Nomad Cooking Kit: $98.89

From hiking and camping, to boating and picnicking – this slick set includes a quality-made N°12 folding knife with a serrated blade for bread, a N°10 folding corkscrew knife for opening wine, a N°06 pocket peeler for fruit and veg prep, a beechwood cutting board for carving meat, and a microfibre dish towel that doubles as a travel pouch. 

With handles of a durable beech wood and stainless-steel blades for robustness, their safety rings lock them both open in use and closed for transport.

Eat with elegance on every alfresco escape, with the Opinel Nomad Cooking Kit.

Perfect for the go-getters jetting off on their next getaway. Image: Eagle Creek

• Eagle Creek Pack-It Sets: Up to $99.99

From sending it every weekend to catering for the over-packers on the overnighters – the Pack-It sets by Eagle Creek include the Weekender, Overnight, Starter, and Reveal Cubes for curbing the packing chaos!

Boasting 300D Polyester fabric constructions and 100% post-consumer recycled fabric for their washable and water-resistant features, each component is as efficient to clean as they are to use! Keep the socks, jocks, and pyjamas maintained, the dirty boots and dusty shoes away from your cleaner clobber, your toiletries together, and minimise wrinkles in one neat, intact, compactly packed package!

These Pack-It sets are perfect for the go-getters jetting off on their next getaway.

• BlackWolf Quick Fold Lightweight Chair: $149.90

From picnics to camping trips, and sports events to festivals, this chair takes a front-row seat!

Blending stability with portability, its lightweight but tough aluminium tube frame is both scratch- and rust-resistant. Sink into true serenity with a 900D polyester and HD mesh fabric that tensions as the legs are extended, with a slightly back-leaned seat posture too. Quick to assemble and fast to fold away, its average setup time is 4-8 seconds!

This holiday season, the BlackWolf Quick Fold Lightweight Chair is the perfect chair for your festive derriere!

The range of tie-down packs by Tiegear guarantee flexible strength and robust reliability. Image: Tiegear

For the Gear Gurus Who’ve Got it Together

Under $250

• Tiegear Packs: Up to $249.95

We all know the five senses are sight, hearing, taste, smell, and touch – but for campers, the sixth sense is security! The range of tie-down packs by Tiegear guarantee flexible strength and robust reliability at the site, without the need for pegs.

With packs equipped to secure caravan setups, awnings, and gazebos, Tiegear bundle their guy ropes and HD springs into an acrylic canvas and mesh gear bag for kick-butt durability, breathability, and compact storage in the back of your vehicle.

Simple, functional, and Aussie-made. Image: Blacksmith Camping Supplies

• BS Aussie Made Peg and Tool Bag (with Handles): $34.90

Store the essential tools and steel pegs in the Australian-Made Peg & Tool Bag from Blacksmith Camping Supplies.

Constructed from military-grade 505gsm Australian-made canvas – Dynaproofed for rotproofing and breathability – its interior capacity has space for camping tools and up to 35 x of separately available Hex Pegs. The Velcro opening secures it shut, while webbing handles offer ease of carrying or grabbing from the boot.

Simple, functional, and Aussie-made – cart about your camping accessories with ease and efficiency.

There’s a cold one for the whole crew. Image: Camelbak

For the Cool, Calm, Can Collectors

Under $500

• Coleman 16-Can Soft Cooler: $24.90

Catering for the campsite parties and backyard barbies, this cooler boasts an odour- and stain-resistant make – as easy to keep clean as it is to keep your cold ones crisp! With a front pocket for the bottle openers and other campsite knick-knacks, a zip-top closure also offers easy access to your refreshment while the lid’s bungee cord straps in a picnic blanket for those drawn-out hangouts on the lawn.

Keep your cool and kick on this summer!

• Camelbak Chillbak Cooler Packs: Up to $449

The Camelbak Chillbak 30 and Chillbak Cube 18 are the coolest can-keepers at the campsite! There’s a cold one for the whole crew, owing to their 24- and 16-can respective capacities, with a padded back panel and shoulder straps for breathability and protection. A hose with spigot is accessible from the exterior for easy, efficient refills, while a waistbelt ensures a secure fit. Kit out your pack with tools, fix-it kits, and essentials thanks to additional storage above the cooler in the roll-top area too!

Keep cool and carry on this Christmas, with Chillbak cooler packs!

Image: Campfire

For more gift ideas, follow us somewhere Snowy-er than the North Pole…

The post A Snowy(s) Christmas: Gift Guide 2023 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We see you. We hear you.

As heard in Episodes 65 and 66 of the Snowys Camping Show, your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions in the second and final part of our Campsite Q&A’s blog series.

Your trusted Snowys gear experts Ben and Lauren answer more of your campsite questions. Image: Coleman

Gear and Maintenance

Essentials for Beach Camping, and Tips for Keeping the Sand out of the Swag / Tent?

To first address sand, Ben and Lauren recommend a mesh ground sheet which, while expensive, is worth the investment. Double-layered, the mesh allows for any sand on top to fall through without resurfacing, ensuring a sand-free environment. These ground sheets were initially invented as portable helipads, designed to be positioned on loose desert surfaces to prevent sand from blowing and flicking upwards as the helicopter lands. OZtrail manufacture a less expensive model, which still adequately serves the same purpose.

Lauren also recommends EVA foam floor mats at the doorway, and a dustpan and brush to sweep away sand from legs and feet. A Muk Mat – a large, well-finished slab of Astro Turf – works wonders in sandy, beachy environments too. Lauren also suggests washing away the grit and debris in a tub of water, large enough for someone to stand in. Ultimately, allocating a ‘zone’ nearby your setup to clean away sand before entering the living area is the suggested approach. Sand in a tent and living space is often only a problem if we allow for it to build up – so control it from the beginning! 

Broadly speaking, beach camping also requires some sort of wind management. That said, setting up a wind break in sandy environments can encourage sand to whip upwards in a whirlwind. To control this, Ben and Lauren recommend choosing tents with fine mesh, and sealing windows and openings during the day to prevent sand from making its way into bedding.

Lastly, adequate sand pegs and guy ropes are paramount when beach camping, as well as trace springs for added stability in windier conditions.

Securing Food from Pests?

…Try literally anything.

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren detail how to manage critters and pests at the campsite.

Ultimately, they recommend Tupperware that seals tight. Ben is content with leaving unopened food packets in a tub with the lid sitting on top. On the other hand, opened packets should be kept in an airtight container to prevent ants from making their way in.  

In Ep53 – Kangaroo Island, Lauren describes the relentless possum raids as a result of leaving her doors open at night. Generally though, she manages well by keeping her food in storage draws under the bed and recommends solid plastic tubs. Even for a grain of rice, mice will chew through soft silicon and thin plastics, so be aware of the quality of your storage options too. Again, Ben can advocate for this in Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap, where he resorts to creating a trash contraption mouse trap to catch a critter than chewed its way into his 4WD!

For the unique nomads who hoped for more than just ‘use good storage containers’ – ever tried suspending your food from a tree using squat straps? Learn more about this in Ep57 and Ep96 on Weird and Wonderful Camping Gear!

Can you repair a sleeping mat if it leaks at the seams or valves – and if so, how?

Ben and Lauren have recorded a video that lives on the Snowys YouTube channel, elaborating on material relevant to this question – though not in detail.

Usually, only a leak via a seam or valve is guaranteed under warranty. This is because inconsistencies or fissures at these points are more than likely attributed to manufacturing faults. Ben and Lauren recommend getting in touch with the retailer of your defective sleeping mat to receive a warranty assessment.

While not the prettiest fix, Ben suggests Stormsure adhesive or seam grip glue to mend your mat DIY-style. Specifically, heavily smother the hole before spreading the glue at length along each side to create a seal. For an even stronger hold, apply the glue to a nylon ripstop-type material (from a place like Spotlight), as a foundation. This works particularly well with longer tears; Ben recommends incorporating fabric or gauze in and amongst the glue by placing a large strip over the top of the gash. When stretched, the fabric separates – but the seam grip covers it.

Personal camping essentials, upgrades, original gear, current gear, and reasons behind any alterations?

Before we unpack this question – yes, Ben. We get it. You love your coffee kit bag.

As much as this is true, Ben points out that he considers ‘personal camping essentials’ the items that mostly sit beneath the ‘hygiene’ and ‘medication’ umbrella. Lauren rarely washes her hair on a camping trip, instead relying on Sea to Summit’s Wilderness Wash as both soap and body wash. Other essentials include her quality base layers and socks, sheep skins to drape over her camp chairs for warmth, Crocs (which she insists are the most bomb-proof, ideal footwear to slip on and off around the campsite), a head torch, and a bird book with binoculars to watch and learn of the pretty birdlife that often surrounds her on her travels.

On the other hand, Ben reveals the gear he’s replaced over the years. He now avoids rounder table lanterns and instead opts for 12V LED strips or hanging lights, having decided that they light his table setup more effectively. As well as lighting, Ben has reconsidered how he operates his stove, now opting for multi-fuel over gas. Unlike large, heavy gas bottles, multi-fuel systems are easy to transport and assemble, eliminating the need for hoses and other accessories. While it may take longer, Ben confirms that this is the trade-off he’s willing to sacrifice. His cast iron camp oven – whilst a favourite – is also soon to be replaced by one of spun steel for both weight and portability reasons. Lastly, he’s removed his awning from his 4WD. This was after deciding it was too tedious to set up and take down on trips where he was driving more frequently than he was pulling over. It now sits in his shed at home… and he doesn’t miss it!

Ben now avoids table lanterns and instead opts for 12V lighting. Image: Hard Korr

Lauren hears of new and improved gear through the grapevine from as often as monthly to even weekly. For this reason, her setup reflects constant evolution as opposed to a ‘before and after’ project. An example of this is her transition from a Waeco 45-litre fridge to a myCOOLMAN dual zone 85-litre fridge, after discovering more room in her van to store it. Now in the process of fitting out their camper van, she reflects on why she didn’t consider two drawer fridges to stack on top of one another – an arrangement she’s keen to progress to when the vehicle renovations are done. The drawer fridges she’s interested in are 10 centimetres wider than the current fridge, but are stackable and each capable of running as either a fridge or freezer.
Overall, settling on a sprinter van instead of a 4WD or caravan – as much as Lauren and her partner love it – has its limitations. Lacking features such as 4WD access or adequate clearance can sometimes be more significant issues than not, especially when she plans to go far beyond her backyard and get wild! As a result, Lauren finds herself wondering what she may opt for further down the line, and what differences it will pose regarding setup. Better or worse – at the end of the day, the grass will always seem greener.

Advice on Tent Security (and Storing Spare Keys)?

The simple answer is: don’t keep your keys in your tent.

With his minimalist setup, Ben has spent many camping trips probably appearing as one of the less wealthy campers at the campsite – which likely explains why he’s yet to be robbed! In some ways, locking everything away can suggest that you have something to steal.

An effortless solution is to not store valuables inside the tent, where Ben tends to only leave his bedding. While there’s always a chance, the likelihood that his sleeping bag will be stolen is relatively low, with fewer repercussions if it was over his wallet or phone.

As for Lauren, theft has never been on her radar. In her experience, there’s an unspoken rule in the camping community to not steal from other setups. Ben admits that National Park spaces are relatively theft-free, though some caravan parks in particular are more prone to it. This is often not as malicious as it is purely opportunistic; young, ratbag kids are usually just out for a thrill, looking to snatch up some loose change or something valuable. This is often the case in most areas alike.

Ultimately, the chance of theft at a campground depends on its location. To address any concerns you may have, simply lock your vehicle and avoid leaving loose change or valuables in exposed places. For instance: at night, Ben tends to store his car keys in the small internal tent pocket just above his head.

Gazebos – Necessary Additional Family Shelter, or Storage Space Waster?

The short answer? It depends on who you are, the storage space you have, and the nature of your desired setup.

For a more detailed response, Ben and Lauren cover relevant information extensively in Ep7 – Gear You Don’t Need for Camping and Ep59 – Shelters for Rainy Days.

What is Safer: to Keep Your Lithium Battery (Plugged Into Solar Panels and a Fridge) in a 6 x 4  Trailer, a Tent, or on a Blanket on the Ground?

If the battery is lithium, it’s generally safe either way.

On the other hand, other lead acid batteries (including sealed) emit hydrogen and generally don’t operate well in extreme temperatures, so best kept in a ventilated space. Keeping it by your fridge shouldn’t be a concern in this regard, as the fridge itself also requires adequate aeration due to its compressor.

Albeit, Ben and Lauren aren’t experts on batteries. Initially, they suggest using common sense; keeping a hot battery close beside you within a tent isn’t ideal! Those who are still unsure should note the warnings in the instruction manual of their respective power station (for instance, the Companion Lithium Rover), or talk to the experts (e.g. Battery World).

Items you Thought Would be Useless but Were Useful, and Vice-Versa?

For Ben, he never expected to need a paintbrush on a road trip – but has found it useful in sweeping away dust and debris from his car or tent interior, especially in outback travelling!

On the other hand, the few opportunities he’s found to use his awning don’t warrant transporting it about as often as he once did. For this reason, it now lives packed away in his shed indefinitely. As well as this, he’s allocated his ‘Grandpa Fork’ to the box of untouched tackle. The tool is simply a fork-like piece that attaches to the end of a stick, designed for toasting marshmallows. While Lauren thinks they’re a nifty invention, Ben would rather just use a stick…

For Lauren, her set of four collapsible tubs are the most unexpectedly delightful addition to her camp clobber. She uses them regularly, and plans to soon purchase another set.

As for the presumably great gadgets that have turned out to be sub-par, she keeps a large collection of items alike in her shed which simply haven’t suited her setup as much as she initially thought. At this stage, nothing in particular springs to mind – but keep an eye out on the Snowys Camping Show Facebook group while she sets this question aside to marinate…

Ben finds he doesn’t use his awning enough to warrant transporting it around as often as he does. Image: Darche

Camping, Caravanning, and 4WDing

Funniest Camp Fail?

… On par with Ben’s ‘green ant’ story, as told in Episode 44? Lauren may just match it.

There’s a place she and her family love to go, the track to which is recommended for 4WDs only – especially when wet. That said, Lauren claims her Sprinter van can tackle more than one may think… but in this instance, these were her famous last words.

Lauren and her family were due to meet with another two groups. Given the substantial room in her vehicle compared to others, she was transporting enough gear for six people – plus more to lessen the load for other families. This added significantly more weight to the van… which didn’t bode well on the track after recent rainfall. When they approached the track, it was a slurry of cold, grey mud. By the time they realised it wasn’t a good idea to proceed, it was too late to turn back!

Initially, they were hopeful… before the van began to slip and slide perilously in the sludge. Eventually, they were left steadfast in sticky mud, stranded in the middle of the Riverland. The sun had set; it was 9:30pm. Lauren directed the kids to toddle off into the inky blackness with a torch to find help, while she and her partner began the exhaustive process of attempting to nudge the van, stubbornly wedged in the thick mud.

After some time, their friend arrived, and together they discovered the root of the problem; the vehicle’s diff was lodged firmly into a large lump of clay. To first alleviate some of the weight, Lauren had the kids carrying camp clobber from the van to the campsite, piece by piece like a row of ants. Next, her partner stripped down to only his shorts and primely positioned himself well underneath the van. The track soon became a mucky mess of footprints as Lauren’s family gathered sticks, logs, and debris to dig away at the diff buried deep in the sludge.

Time moved fast – but the van remained resolute. By midnight, Lauren and her crew attempted one last tactic. After removing the wheel, they packed in the space underneath with sticks and bark, inserted the jack, and pushed as hard as they could while one of them took the driver’s seat. Eventually, Lauren and her family were a wholesome blend of filthy, relieved – and with a vehicle in motion!

For a camp fail equally as chaotic involving a snake, a floating tent, and a mass of green ants – check out Ep44 – Ben’s Half Lap.

Practicality of Extended Overland Trips in an SUV/Wagon/Car, Versus the More Built-Out 4WDs/RVs/Camper Vans/Caravans?

The key consideration that distinguishes one from the other is preparation. Travelling in a 4WD, RV, or camping vehicle requires less given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup. With an SUV or smaller vehicle, space is more limited.

As much as it bodes well to first do your research before purchasing a more built-out camper van, don’t let your current wagon or car be a roadblock to hitting the road and seeing the sights. While it may not be wise to travel through the Bungle Bungles in a Sedan, there is still so much to see and do in the great outdoors without a 4WD setup.

Do Either of you Own a Camper Trailer or a Caravan? What are Your Hacks?

Ben and Lauren do not – but Snowys’ resident caravanning expert, Kevin, certainly does!

Kevin has frequently featured in episodes of the Snowys Camping Show, such as Caravan Water Tanks 101, Caravan Refrigeration, and Caravanning the Oodnadatta Track. Given how many caravanning hacks there are, Ben and Lauren suggest advising us of any specifics for Kevin to address from his fountain of knowledge.

Travelling in a 4WD requires less preparation given that, in many ways, they already account for half of your setup! Image: Darche

What are the essential spare items that Kev would take for extended caravan travelling, off-road?

We’ve addressed this in detail in Episode 68 with our caravanning expert, Kev.

While the list extends further, and excludes the various considerations and details depending on the off-road situation – Kev recommends the following as a guide:

• A standard toolkit
• Wheel bearings
• A hub seal
• Irrigation joiners, straights, and elbows etc. for the hoses and connectors beneath the van
• Two spare wheels, as well as plugs for any minor punctures
• Turn buckles and chains to secure broken springs and axels (this becomes complicated, and depends on the situation!)
• A roll of duct tape, insulation tape, and wire
• Replacement fuses to suit those existing in your car or caravan
• So much more!

Food

Favourite Meal to Cook When Camping / Meal Ideas?

Ben and Lauren elaborate on relevant information throughout both Ep2 – Tips for Keeping Camping Food Fresh, Ep13 – Camping on a Budget, and Ep27 – Camp Kitchen Essentials.

In addition to this specific content, Lauren confirms that her favourite camping food – especially in Winter –  is a cooked brekky. For her, nothing beats smoky bacon, eggs, and charred toast by the campfire coals first thing in the morning!

On the other hand, Ben tends to cook modified versions of the meals he eats at home. For example, when cooking a pasta at the campsite that would usually include fresh tomatoes, he’d add tinned instead.

Another winner for Ben is damper. A doughy, buttery, body-bolstering blend of simple and versatile – damper requires only staple ingredients, elevated even more with bits and pieces of sweet or savoury. By the same token, a jaffle iron is one of Ben’s favourite appliances at the campsite. As well as cooking mini dampers, Ben uses his iron by pressing dough into the moulds, filling it with either baked beans, chocolate, or other fillings of choice, and toasting to create little dough pouches for his kids to carry around camp.

In the meantime, she suggests preparing as much food in advance as possible. This includes pre-chopping vegetables, and pre-cooking meals to then vacuum-seal and re-heat in boiling water at the campsite. Storing pre-cooked rice and chopped vegetables such as onion, pumpkin, or carrots in vac-sealed bags also keeps food fresh and maintained.

In Lauren’s experience, meal-prepping for only herself and her partner versus her entire family are two very different processes. So again – watch this space for more content specific to this aspect of adventuring!

What are the recommended meal and preparation ideas for camping, specifically for stove cooking?

For a little while, Lauren has been keen to produce an episode purely centred around campsite meals. In it, she’d aim to cover meal planning, preparation, and cooking for camping.

In a previous episode with Dr. Kate Grarock, ‘Food for Adventure’, Ben and Lauren kept the content hiking-focused. Episodes alike include ‘Food for Hiking‘, as well as content that explores camp kitchen essentials and how to keep food fresh. Considering this, Lauren has identified the absence of an episode solely dedicated to recipes and meal ideas.

Fridges

Use-case tips on Dometic icebox sizes – including packing standard-sized items to assess how they fit, and how to subsequently determine a suitable size?

This has been an angle on iceboxes from which both Ben and Lauren have wanted to approach for a little while. In a previous podcast episode, ‘Fridges Vs Iceboxes’, they discuss the pros and cons of each and consequently which option is more suited to various setups.

For now, our gear gurus confirm that it depends on the purpose for which your icebox is being used; be that solely cooling, or in conjunction with a fridge. Granted, a YouTube video on our channel may be the perfect way to further elaborate on this question and demonstrate visually… so for the last time, watch this space!

In a previous podcast episode, Ben and Lauren discuss the pros and cons of both iceboxes and fridges. Image: Dometic

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

Will Snowys ever open a store in Victoria or Sydney?

Unfortunately, this isn’t on the radar. Ben says that Snowys aim to continue to focus on what they do well, as opposed to expanding and subsequently increasing the prices of products. That said – never say never!

Nonetheless, this isn’t a conversation Lauren and Ben are ultimately involved in, instead determined by a higher level of authority.

Do you two each have an Instagram account, so we can see your setups as well?

The short answer is: not really.

Why? Lauren’s answer for Ben is simple: he’s ‘lame’!

Ben’s explanation for his lack of internet sharing is a little more sentimental; when he’s on holiday, he unplugs almost entirely. Instead of watching the number of views rise on his Instagram stories, he watches the view of the sunrise instead. While some reach the end of a demanding day outdoors and choose to take the time to share photos with their family via WhatsApp, Ben watches the sun set instead. On his half-lap across the Northern Territory and Western Australia, Ben became so emersed in his surroundings that his wife would update his family for him!

Nonetheless, Ben and Lauren admit that they reference their own setups a lot throughout their Snowys podcasts and content. Those who listen to the Snowys Camping Show podcast have insight into Ben and Lauren’s identities in a work-based capacity, with little reference to their personal life.

Lauren has a personal Instagram account that she rarely uses, but has considered creating one that is more relevant to her camping life for public observation. Where she’ll continue to ponder the idea, Ben is certain that a personal account will be disappointing for his followers due to the simplicity of his setup!

More questions? Hit us up! Image: Sea to Summit

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 23, 30, 48, 65, 66, and 92 of the Snowys Camping Show to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 2) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

From wet weather tips and coffee at the campsite, to the best bags, mending swags, what they can’t camp without, and how to get around – this blog covers the first of a two-part series on the questions asked of our resident gear gurus – Ben and Lauren.

From wet weather tips to coffee at the campsite – read on for answers to some of our most-asked questions! Image: Sea to Summit

Camping

‘What are your favourite items of camping equipment?’

Ben’s favourite is his Aeropress coffee maker and X-Pot kettle from Sea to Summit, plus his solar panels so he can travel further off the grid. Lauren is very fond of her Cecil & Co Campfire Water Boiler which she uses with her 12V shower for steaming hot bush showers, her trusty Scrubba wash bag for cleaning clothes, and her Hillbilly cookstand for campfire cooking.

‘What do you look for when choosing a campsite? Do you have any local favs?’

Lauren admits that she doesn’t like to share her favourite spots, as there have been some great campsites in the past that have become trashed after gaining popularity. In terms of finding a good spot, she says WikiCamps has been helpful as you can filter both your region and requirements. Lauren now looks for bush camps / campsites with minimal amenities, are nearby a water source, offer space for kids to roam, and allow both dogs and campfires (within fire season). Ben largely feels the same, as he prefers more remote camping where there is plenty of space and solitude.

‘It would be cool to see your setups – Ben’s sounds quite interesting.’

You can hear more about Ben and Lauren’s setups in the Episode 71 and Episode 72 of the Snowys Camping Show:

‘There are many women camping solo these days. I am 59, and I would love to know what products make camping easier and safer for me.’

Instant Up Tents are a good example of easy, user-friendly camping gear. Lauren hasn’t solo-camped much in her time, but some contributors in our Facebook group have shared tips like taking an extra chair and leaving an empty can or beer bottle to give the impression of another camper’s presence. Also, having a way to communicate in terms of safety, be that some sort of messenger device to connect with your loved ones or a UHF radio for calling for assistance. This will provide some peace of mind.

‘Tips for taking toddlers camping?’

Having touched on both camping with kids and camping with teenagers, Lauren and Ben maintain their suggestion to allow children the freedom to explore in safe areas (i.e. away from spaces prone to snakes). Navigate the nooks and crannies with them, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. 

Along with old, worn clothing, Lauren recommends packing your child/ren a waterproof over-suit for winter camping, thrown on with a pair of gumboots for perfectly protected play among the mud puddles. She also comments that camping in caravan parks often presents more problems than setting up out in the open, where cars and other children tearing up the tracks on bikes can create a cramped and crowded space for toddlers. In the bush, parents can instead establish the clear perimeters their children can roam to, and eliminate any worries about washing. On that, Lauren suggests doubling a trug as both a washing basin and a bath.

For sleeping, Ben recommends creating a barrier either side of your child to prevent them from rolling off their mat. Especially in the winter, waking up in the middle of the night on the cold, hard floor can make defying the outdoors the following day difficult – and in some cases, cause sickness. Additionally, Lauren strongly suggests avoiding kids’ sleeping bags. In her experience, they’ve never offered the same level of warmth, longevity, or adequate length as the adult designs. Instead, simply purchase a standard sized bag, and either fold in half or block off at the end to prevent your pocket-sized humans from slipping too far into the sack.

Oh, and of course – be sure to not to skimp on the snacks!

‘What’s the right way to stake a tent?

Some say 45° away from tent, others 45° toward the tent, and some say vertically. Confusion reigns. For me, it’s critical the tent remains secure in wind!’

The top of the peg should be pointing away from the tent – so when you’re hammering it into the ground, it’s angled away from the tent.

‘On my lap around Australia, what is recommended: ute canopy, camper trailer, or caravan?’

For those travelling as a couple without children, Lauren and Ben suggest using a Ute canopy as opposed to attempting to tow a camper trailer or caravan. Nonetheless, in cases where campers feel comfortable leaving them stationary somewhere for long periods of time, caravans and trailers can provide a roomy, humble alternative.

That said, Ben agrees that an easier-to-set-up sanctuary is more economical and beneficial for a dynamic duo. The money saved on a camper trailer can instead be invested in upgrading your vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to accommodate a substantial rooftop tent. Ben suggests a thorough investigation into the style of rooftop tent you purchase, given some are easy to set up while others require the use of pegs and guy ropes.  

‘Do you consider using a caravan “camping”?’

In short, no – but it doesn’t matter what it’s called, doing what you enjoy is what matters. At the end of the day, it’s still a valuable pursuit. According to the Oxford Dictionary, camping is defined as: ‘The activity of spending a holiday living in a tent’. So, there you have it!

‘What are your thoughts about the future of Australian manufacturing within the camping/hiking and touring sector?’

Both Ben and Lauren believe that it’s important to support Australian-made and Australian-owned companies whenever possible. The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted many supply chain issues in every industry, but the market has been that way for quite some time in regards to overseas manufacturing. Keep in mind that just because a product is made offshore doesn’t mean it’s poor quality. Many Aussie family-owned brands choose to manufacture overseas due to the limited options in Australia with technology and machinery, so it’s a complex topic that should be considered from all angles.

Ben and Lauren chat with Laine and Erin Wescombe of Blacksmith Camping Supplies about everything Aussie Manufacturing:

‘Regarding First Aid, what knowledge is essential for campers and what items do you never leave without in your first aid kit?’

It’s good to have as much knowledge as you can if you’re heading somewhere remote, with a basic first aid course as the minimum. Keep some extra items in your first aid kit to cater for your specific needs as well. Lauren also mentions that it’s important to have an alternative method of communication if you frequently travel to areas where there isn’t a reliable phone signal. This could be in the form of a satellite communicator, satellite phone, or PLB. Even with some First Aid training, if there’s a life-threatening emergency, urgent medical attention will be required.

‘Ben – you always seem very focused on weight and functionality (rightfully so), but what do you take camping that isn’t necessary and something you consider a luxury?’

If it’s a luxury item, Ben usually doesn’t take it. That said, when he travelled up north (where it’s hot and humid), he carried a 12V Breezeway Fan from Outdoor Connection to keep his family cool.

Navigate the nooks and crannies with your kids, and foster a respect and wonder for natural environments. Image: Coleman

Sleeping Gear

‘I currently have 50mm thick, self-inflatable sleeping mats for my family car-camping trips.

I am finding lately that the mats don’t self-inflate as much as they used to, and aren’t as comfortable. I was thinking of going for hiking air mattresses with insulation, so they can be also used for canoe camping and the odd hike. Are these a good option, or should I consider something else?’

You could certainly use an air mat – but one of the main benefits of a self-inflating foam mat is that if there’s a puncture, you will still have some insulation to sleep on. Consider that you might have different comfort standards when you’re hiking compared to when you go family camping. You might want to go for a self-inflating mat designed for hiking, as they’re more durable and comfortable but still fairly lightweight.

‘Where can I find mattress toppers for swags?’

For those who are unfamiliar with a mattress topper – this is a corresponding product that provides added padding and comfort to an existing mattress. Where some have walls like a fitted sheet, others are simply a mat of synthetic fibre, down, merino or wool. Lauren recommends merino for adequate temperature regulation, while Ben simply utilises a fitted bed sheet that he tucks beneath the mattress sides.

While residential mattress sizes don’t align with those of swags, Lauren suggests visiting Target, K-Mart, Spotlight, or other hardware and homeware stores for adequate options.

‘Stretcher bed Vs air bed Vs self-inflating mat?

Particular consideration for those with back issues, knee issues, hand issues (i.e. comfort, getting up off the ground, assembling equipment, or closing valves)?’

Ben and Lauren reckon the best option for someone who might have limited mobility would be a stretcher that provides elevation, plus a self-inflating mat with a two-way valve so it’s easier to set up and pack away.

Consider that your comfort standards when you’re hiking will be different compared to when you go family camping. Image: Exped

‘What’s the best sleeping bag for men, and what’s the best for women?’

This is a complicated question as there are many factors, and most bags in the higher price bracket will perform similarly. Once you decide on either a synthetic or down bag, narrow it down to the fit, look for an EN rating, and consider size and packability.

Ben and Lauren also recommend listening to their interview with Sea to Summit discussing sleep systems, which might help with the decision-making process.

‘I bought a brand new down sleeping bag but it has a strong smell, like a wet dog.

I’m wondering if the down inside is bad, or something’s wrong with the bag? Is it normal that new down bags stink?’

This is totally normal and very common. Keep in mind, feathers are a natural fibre, so they will have a natural scent that will fade over time. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, but there are some things you can do to minimise it like taking it out of its storage sack and hanging it up in your wardrobe to ventilate. You also have the option of washing your down bag, but wetting the feathers can sometimes intensify the smell. We recommend keeping it dry, airing it, and just being patient.

‘Best sleeping bags for bigger people?’

For the taller campers, Sea to Summit offer longer-style sleeping bags. At 185cm, Ben fits a regular sized bag, while at 191cm tall Lauren’s partner is better suited to a longer design.

For those who are simply broader – or as Lauren calls it, ‘cuddlier’ – women-specific designs by Sea to Summit are narrower in the shoulders but allow more room in the hip area. Additionally, their Amplitude and Basecamp series mirror a large sack, feature two warmth ratings, and are significantly more spacious. Lauren describes their appearance as a fluffy balloon, boasting a huge internal circumference for star-fishing and spreading wide. These particular styles are popular among motorcycle tourists too.
Unlike the Mummy shaped design – wide at the shoulders, tapering at the feet – the rectangular fit maintains the same measure of room from head to toe. The Sea to Summit website indicates the internal circumference of their sleeping bags, as well as hip and shoulder measurements.

Like Sea to Summit, Darche also offer a 1100 sleeping bag that aligns with a King-King-Single size. While this doesn’t quite meet the same volume of space as a double, it is larger than a single and thus still offers a roomy alternative.

Weather Protection

‘What is the best rain jacket and best down jacket for men, what’s the best for women?’

This is a tricky one, as we don’t sell clothing at Snowys; it’s not our area of speciality. Essentially, when it comes to the top-of-the-range, high-quality clothing (where you’re spending $500+), the differences will likely be minor.

Generally, we would say that the hallmark of a high-quality rain jacket would be breathable waterproof fabric with ventilation and a good hood.

In terms of down jackets – if you’re just looking for one to wear around town, you could definitely go for something more affordable. However, if you’re using it for technical applications, look for models that use responsibly sourced down, have a good warmth-to-weight ratio, and feature water-resistant fabric.

‘Has anyone made up their own windbreak?

I was thinking of using shade cloth and star droppers. I think star droppers might be on the heavy and awkward-to-store side of things though – are there aluminium poles that would be suitable?’

Definitely – but we would suggest not taking star droppers as they are heavy, so could be dangerous in an accident. Even if strapped on tightly, it will become a spear if it begins to move with too much weight around it. Whatever you put on the roof rack must be secure. Aluminium poles will help save weight, so they are a good choice – plus, you’ll need good pegs and guy ropes. Ben recommends taking a mesh tarp folded in half, as this will mediate and slow the wind without putting too much stress on the poles.

‘Do you always pack clothing for any weather, or do you only ever pack for expected weather?’

Ben is a light packer, so he plans based on the expected weather forecast – although he might take a pair of pants and a light jumper sometimes, just in case. Lauren follows the same principle, though she might occasionally throw in a pair of comfy longer pants for wearing around camp. Regardless of the weather, she always packs a thick pair of socks to help her stay warm.

‘Tips or tricks for camping in the rain?’

In previous episodes, Lauren and Ben have touched on some logistics surrounding camping in wetter weather. Nonetheless, Ben encourages campers to enjoy the pitter-patter of raindrops on the still, damper days.

To prepare for the no-so-pleasant occasions, assess the weather predictions via the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) or your local agency. At the campsite, ensure guys ropes are taught, the fly is fully tensioned to ensure efficient funneling of rain, and establish a sheltered space for cooking and socialising, such as a spare tarp or gazebo.

Stick to lighting brands that are known for quality, such as Ledlenser. Image: Ledlenser

Electronics, Lighting, and Power

‘I’m thinking of buying a good head torch, but I don’t know if it’s worth spending good dollars on one or just replacing cheap ones as they stuff up…’

Ben’s approach to gear is that the fewer items thrown away, the better. Generally, with head torches, you get what you pay for. Ben has had a Princeton Tec head torch for 15 years which cost around $100. It has been on many adventures with him, and is still going strong! Stick to brands that are known for quality such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Silva, Ledlenser, or Nitecore.

For Lauren, the most important factors are that the unit is rechargeable and the battery can be replaced. She has used BioLite torchs in the past, but the internal battery can’t be replaced – this means that eventually it will end up in landfill. Instead, she now uses a Petzl Tikkina headlamp with a replaceable battery.

‘How do I determine the best small option for recharging my phone when camping, away from power points and a stationary vehicle, for 4-5 days?’

We would say start by working out what devices you’re going to use (e.g. just your phone, or other gear) and how much you want to use each device. Generally though, a small 20mAh powerbank should be suitable as something you can charge at home or while you drive.

Tents

‘Thoughts on camper trailers Vs tents for young family camping?’

Camper trailers are great for those who have the space at home to store them, are happy to tow, and also spend the initial investment by purchasing one. However, some limitations are that they can be time-consuming to put up, involve more maintenance, and require space for storage at home. That said, camper trailers are convenient and easier to get going with on your adventures –especially with kids.

‘Here’s one for Ben: would you take a hiking tent on your regular car-camping trips, or a larger tent?

Also, do you have an AGM battery in the car, or Lithium? If not Lithium, will you make the switch eventually?’

In his younger days, Ben was a hiker who took his lightweight tent on camping trips – but as his family grew, he upgraded to an older-style Black Wolf Tuff tent. He then upgraded to an Oztent RV5 tent for outback adventures, which is what he and his family still use now.

Currently, he has a lead-acid auxiliary and main battery, so he can charge them both with the same profile. That said, he would like to switch to lithium in the future to save weight.

Which tents on the market are the easiest and most efficient to set up and pack down for a newbie?

Lauren believes that the easiest to set up would be an air tent or an Instant Up design. Ben recommends checking out a basic dome tent, as you can’t really go wrong with good quality construction and thoughtful design.

‘What do you think of cheaper tents found at department stores?’

If you’re looking for a tent to survive a couple of uses, they will be fine – but if you want something that will stand up to many years of use, generally you do get what you pay for. If you were to have an issue with it, it’s unlikely that spare parts would be available, so even though the tent can be replaced through warranty the broken one will end up in landfill. We’d say the better approach is to buy once, buy right – so you can enjoy your shelter over many adventures.

A Muk Mat will help to prevent beach, bush, and campground grit from making its way indoors. Image: Muk Mat

Gear, Campsite, and General Maintenance

‘How can we limit the amount of sand and dirt little feet bring into our swags?

We have a 3-week trip planned with a mixture of beach, bush, and campground swagging with a 2- and 5-year-old!

You probably won’t be able to prevent this entirely, but you can manage it by keeping your shoes outside the swag. Putting a Muk Mat or some sort of foam matting outside as a doormat will help, as well as keeping a dustpan and brush on the inside to help get rid of any dirt on your bedding.

‘How can we keep pesky pests at bay? Wildlife sure are experts at penetrating defences!’

Lauren hasn’t really experienced issues with wildlife, as she camps with dogs and kids (so the noise probably keeps them at arm’s length). Neither has Ben. However, some general tips would be to keep food scraps secure, cover up and use insect repellents, set up orange lighting to deter bugs, and keep your tent zipped closed.

‘What is the best option for managing mozzies in particular when camping?’

As Ben’s wife is a mozzie-magnet, he suggests using EVERYTHING!

Some repellants include Thermocells, DEET, mosquito nets, sprays, and coils in still climates. For chemical-free prevention strategies, cover bare skin with long-sleeved clothing, keep screens and panels securely zipped, and simply factor a barrier of any kind into your camp set-up. For more tactics, check out Ep31 – Creepy Crawlies at the Campsite – or this blog on the many ways to repel bugs while camping.

‘How can I fix a snapped swag pole?’

For snapped fibreglass or alloy poles, the swag pole repair kit by Darche is a helpful henchman. For aluminium repairs, Darche offer two different kits – one for angular, segmental swags, and the other for arched hoops found in dome designs.

Replacement fibreglass poles of the same diameter can be sourced and simply cut to length, while repairing a breakage or snap is often done using the small tube-like sleeve (ferrule) included with most swags. Simply slide this over the top of the rupture and secure with duct tape for a temporary, stable fix lasting the remainder of a trip. Lauren demonstrates how to approach this in a Snowys YouTube video.

As for alloy poles, these are more difficult to repair or replace. Lauren and Ben suggest returning to the respective manufacturer for assistance.

‘Any unpacking, at-home rituals? Tips on gear checks and maintenance? Wet or windy weather activities?’

Ben and his family try to unpack straight away following a camping trip, before they do anything else. He generally makes notes while camping of anything that needs to be addressed or refilled, so it’s easy to sort everything upon arriving home. Lauren tends to leave it to the next day as she usually arrives home from her trips quite late. As her van is not their daily car, it doesn’t need to be unpacked straight away – however, she does take out the laundry, rubbish, and any leftover food.

In terms of activities on a rainy or windy day, Ben and Lauren suggest playing cards, games, reading a book, or listening to music to pass the time.

Ben loves making pizza and damper on the campfire. Image: Campfire

Camp Cooking and Food

‘Best coffee makers for camping?’

A good question for Ben, who maintains that the AeroPress or Wacaco are the most ideal coffee brewers out bush. While an AeroPress can simply be filled with water before a dash of cold milk, the Wacaco produces a traditional espresso shot that requires heated milk to produce an equally hot, hearty cup.

For the super hardcore hot coffee fanatics, some large silver stove-top setups produce espresso and steam milk simultaneously. Boiling the water builds up pressure, creating the shot and concurrently steaming the milk.

‘What’s your favourite recipe for camp stoves and open fires?’

In terms of campfire recipes, Ben loves making pizza and damper, while Lauren is a fan of a bacon and eggs brekkie or stewed lamb shanks in a camp oven. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Fire to Fork cookbook is a good place to start.

Camp stove cooking can be restrictive, but you could get fancy with pasta sauces or use a hotplate to cook a BBQ. Lauren mainly just pre-cooks meals at home and vacuum seals them to reheat in boiling water. This saves gas, time, and cleaning up.

Ben and Lauren chat with Fire to Fork’s Harry Fisher about all things campfire cooking:

‘What food is best to leave in the pantry for short overnight stops (product review on Back Country or Outdoor Gourmet food brands)?’

While Lauren and Ben have previously tapped into freeze-dried and dehydrated meals, they plan to present a more hands-on, detailed demonstration that offers a better sense of how these packet foods look, taste, and cook. Until then, Lauren offers her opinion, essentially describing them as hit-or-miss. Ben and Lauren often have opposing views depending on the brand or choice of meal, which is ultimately suggestive of how subjective freeze-dried and rehydrated food reviews really are.

The appeal of freeze-dried meals comes from their convenience on lightweight adventures, and so aren’t a pleasing enough substitute for a meal on occasions when standard food would otherwise be consumed. For example, Ben’s go-to pasta recipe on his most recent camping holiday used canned vegetables which, in comparison to packet meals, allowed a ‘fresher’-tasting dinner. That said, the Radix brand of freeze-dried food is commonly preferred over others, with a greater resemblance to standard meals.

Overall, Ben suggests canned or long-life food to keep overnight in the pantry, given no refrigeration is required. On that, products displaying a ‘best before’ date often has greater flexibility around the consumption timeline than that of a ‘use by’. That said, the further it surpasses its date stamp, the more it drops in quality and flavour.

Other alternatives include the Offgrid and Go Native brand of heat-and-eat packet food. Go Native is preserved via ‘retort packaging’. This method involves sealing the cooked food while still hot, as opposed to dehydrating. From here, the packet simply requires reheating with boiling water. Ben recommends this as a hearty alternative to other packet meals.

‘Best ultralight cutlery and crockery for hiking, at the lowest price?’

Our podcast hosts both agree that the Sea to Summit polypropylene set is the most cost-efficient and effective hiking cutlery, at just under five dollars per set. Bundled as a fork, spoon, and knife, simply link with a carabiner for a no-fuss food-friendly system. The Delta range of cutlery is shorter, constructed with durable polypropylene and the same reinforced nylon plastic, finished with a flexible plastic carabiner for keeping neat and collected amongst your clutter.  

For crockery, the Sea to Summit Delta bowl and/or plate is a lightweight option. When hiking, a bowl is generally all that’s required, while the additional plate often bodes better for a camping-style holiday.

Ultimately though, Lauren insists that if your camp cutlery isn’t comfortable to hold, the eating experience is thrown completely off course! For that reason – and all lightweight, cost-effective suggestions aside – she carries a set of standard steel cutlery in her camping kit.

Offgrid is an example of fresh, heat-and-eat packaged food, great for overnight stops. Image: Offgrid

OK, now let’s be real for a second…

‘The Snowys products Ben and Lauren couldn’t go without?’

A coffee connoisseur at the campsite, Ben’s response – an AeroPress – is hardly a surprise. His commonly coined nickname ‘Safety Ben’ has him sheepishly admitting that his choice should probably be something more along the lines of a first aid kit or a swag. Nonetheless, he can’t go without coffee – and wasn’t that the question?!

On the other hand, Lauren claims that her Scrubba Wash Bag and Collapsible Space Saving tubs are the most-used, well-loved, not-to-be-forgotten tackle in her pack. After not taking her washbag on her last getaway, she missed it more than she expected – while her collapsible tubs now allow far more room in her kitchen, holding large pats of butter, avocado halves, and wads of bacon.

‘Favoured Snowys products by Snowys staff?’

Jess from Customer Service: a sleeping bag liner. Versatile throughout both warm and wintery weather, this product also keeps her sleeping bag clean.

Sam from Customer Service: trekking poles. Be it for relieving pressure from the knees, hoisting herself up hills, checking the levels of mud holes before heaving across hip-deep, or flipped upside-down for use as tent poles – Sam believes that trekking poles offer true camping comradery.

Laine from the Web Team: a soft-sided cooler and luggage scales. Too often has he left beers behind at a BBQ in someone else’s fridge, so his cooler is now his personal, portable cranny for the cold ones. Thanks to his luggage scales too, he now beats getting burnt at the JetStar luggage check-in, previously packing too much tackle that wavered over the ideal weight.

Cory from IT: his fridge (for keeping his beer), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Cup (for drinking his beer), and Pacsafe waist wallet (…for buying his beer).

Leece from Customer Support: like Ben, an AeroPress – plus a Delta insulated cup.

Michael from the Web Team: a round jaffle iron! Leading up to his travels, Michael would purchase McDonald’s cheeseburgers to keep in the fridge. At the campsite, he simply cooked them in the jaffle iron over the campfire for an even faster fast-food fix!

Brett from the Web Team: the JetBoil Zip. Simply fill, clip, and boil – the perfect stripped-down, lightweight option for fast adventures, covering your coffee fix or for reheating a Radix meal. Lauren owns the JetBoil MiniMo – a short, stocky alternative – which perches perfectly and patiently for her prior to brewing a coffee or tea. An all-round, well-loved product in the Snowys family!

‘When will Snowys open a store in Sydney?’

Unfortunately, to Ben and Lauren’s knowledge, this won’t be a move Snowys will make in the foreseeable future. That said, the ever-evolving, ridgy-didge website successfully accommodates every Snowys supporter around the country!

From swags to Scrubba wash bags, there are some key items that Ben and Lauren can’t go camping without. Image: Darche

For an audio experience, tune into the following episodes as Ben and Lauren address the above questions:

Got a question for Ben and Lauren? Check out Episodes 65, 66, and 92 to hear whether it’s already been answered!

The post Campsite Q&A’s (Part 1) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Tired of trying to cook dinner by the dim light of your camping lantern? You may have considered investing in a 12V lighting setup instead. Camping should be comfortable, so if you are finding that your lack of lighting solutions are taking away from that, this article will help you to be better prepared.

Be that adding lights to your tent, caravan, vehicle, annex, or awning – once you’re across the basics, it’s super simple to add illumination to your outdoor apparatus!

Read on for the features of 12V lighting, what you need to know, and the most frequently asked questions.

In this video, our gear guru Ben explains the basics of how to choose 12V camp lighting for beginners. 

Power Options for 12V Lighting

Today, lighting for camping is more affordable, durable, brighter, easier to use, and more compact than ever before. Batteries have also improved, along with the introduction of LEDs and the advancement of solar power technology. Remember the old dolphin torches you’d lug around? Now, you can buy a torch that supersedes them in both battery life and light output, at a quarter of the size and weight. For more on personal and portable lighting options, check out Episode 67 of The Snowys Camping Show:

If you have a 4WD or vehicle set up with decent 12V power, your options for camp lights are endless. Whether it’s an LED flood light, strip lighting, or compact lights – being able to connect to 12V power allows huge potential.

There are a few choices for powering your 12V lighting and other devices when camping. Some factors to consider are:

– Whether the power source can store a charge as well as recharge
– The power output
– The weight and portability
– Whether it has enough outlets for your use

1. Dual Battery

If you already use a portable 12V fridge, fan, or other appliance whilst camping, it’s likely that you already have a dual battery setup.

A second battery can be wired into your vehicle, so that it’s separate from your main battery and will charge while the engine is running (ideally while you’re driving). This enables you to run 12V gear such as fridges, lights, fans, and other equipment without the risk of flattening your battery.

Snowys’ blogger Aaron Schubert runs a dual battery system in the back of his Land Cruiser, so using power for lighting is not an issue. A flood light is used on the back of the 4WD, along with LED strip lighting on the top tailgate and upgraded LED globes for the two interior lights.

A dual battery system is a reliable way to power your gear off the grid. Image: Aaron Schubert

2. 12V Socket

If you don’t have a dual battery and you want to power from your car, you can power your lighting and other gear into the factory-fitted 12V socket of your vehicle. This is generally not an issue with smaller devices such as lanterns, your phone, or smaller tech items. However, if you want to run lights, you might want to consider an alternative or you run the risk of flattening your vehicle’s starter battery within a day.

There’s only so much power you can draw from a single 12V outlet though. If you find the sum of all your ratings is pushing the limits (see below for more detail on this), you’re best to consult an auto electrician to upgrade the cables in your car.

An even better solution is a dual battery system as touched on above, with heavy-duty wiring, cables, and plugs.

3. Power Pack or Power Station

A portable power pack or station is also an option to power your 12V lights. Depending on the product you choose, charge it up from your mains power before you leave, top it up via solar panels, or charge from your vehicle whilst on the road.

To shed more light on 12V lighting, Ben and Lauren also spoke with Hard Korr in Episode 29 of The Snowys Camping Show:

Power Draw

The number of lights you can run from one cigarette socket can get a bit technical, so let’s cover the basics in layman’s terms. A factory fitted cig socket is rated to about 120W or 10A, and the sum of all the ratings of the light bars (for example) you run from the battery can’t go over this.

You may think that this means you can run 20 x 0.48A light bars from a 10A socket (20×4.8 = 9.6A), but this is not the case. If you push power consumption to the limit of the plug, this will cause things to heat up which could become dangerous or damage your gear.

Features to Look For in 12V Lighting

With more options on the market today than you could ever need, it’s becoming important to buy a camping light that is going to do what you need it to do. There’s no point buying a flood light if you can’t connect it to 12V power. Likewise, if you want a light to read a book with in your tent, perhaps a top-of-the-range tactical torch is a little much.

Power Consumption

Check out the specs to ensure the lights have a low power consumption. The more power you use, the faster your batteries need charging. Look for something that is bright enough to do what you need, and no more – or it will chew through your battery supply. Ideally, you want lights with high light output and higher-quality LEDs so they last longer.

If you’re only setting up strip lighting on your car or around your boat, the lumens can be lower given you won’t need as high visibility. This will also help to conserve precious battery power.

Quality and Durability

They say a poor man buys twice! Three dollar lights are worth just that, so don’t waste your money – you’ll go through several of them. It’s also important to consider durability. If your lights are semi-permanently mounted onto your vehicle, they will need to be able to handle the vibrations of your 4WD without becoming damaged.

Remote Control Compatibility

For lights that are mounted somewhere, a remote control is a fantastic option. Dimmers are often included too; turn it on, and dim the light down without having to walk through the dark!

High-quality lights are more durable, brighter and last longer on your adventures. Image: Aaron Schubert

Lighting Options:

LED Strip Lights

The benefits of LED strip lighting are that it’s super easy to install and, considering their low weight, the power output is excellent. They’re also cool to the touch in low applications, have a long life given they don’t require globe replacements, and boast an efficient power draw.

LED Strip and Flexible Tape Lighting

One of the most common lights you’ll see these days when camping is LED strip lighting: a length of LEDs that are mounted inside a waterproof film. You can find flexible tape options that are cut to fit, with adhesive tape on the back and connectors on each end. These are usually low-powered, so not super bright like other lighting options – thought this means they use up very little energy.

They are low-cost, and can be installed by virtually anyone. You can cut them every 10 or so centimetres, join them easily, and attach them to pretty much anything. Some stores sell pre-wired LED strip lighting with a cigarette lighter plug on one end, or you can make up your own. LED strip lighting is a great option to add on your awning, or on your 4WD. Keep in mind though that it will stick firm to your chosen surface, so not removed as easily. This is also an advantage, as you won’t need to move it around.

Other forms of LED strip lighting are attached to a strip of canvas, which has Velcro on the back for mounting. This is a little more versatile, as you can set it up quickly and move it where you want to. However, the trade-off is that it’s not flush fitting and can catch on moving items, such as camper trailer frames, gazebos, and awnings. For a more permanent lighting option, flexible tape lighting would be your best bet.

If you think that you’d prefer something more portable, consider either strip lighting with Velcro on the back instead, or a light bar kit setup.

Enjoy the space under your awning more in the evenings by attaching some tape lighting. Image: Korr Lighting

LED Camping Light Bars & Kits

Individual bars or a light kit usually come with all the necessary parts you will need to set them up yourself – including a cigarette plug to connect it into your vehicle, extension leads, and a dimmer switch for manual adjustment.

The benefits of light bar kits are that they offer a higher number of lumens and are flexible in offering various mounting options. In hot conditions, they also perform better in comparison to flexible tape lighting.

Adding some quality lights to your vehicle is a great way to illuminate your area at night. Image: Aaron Schubert. 

Solar and Wind-Up Lights

Something that can be a right pain, regardless of which path you go down, is changing batteries. There are a heap of torches and lanterns on the market today that don’t require the changing of batteries. Some require you to wind a handle around to generate power, and others charge via inbuilt or separate solar panels. Of course, every option brings its own inconsistencies – but used for the right purpose, solar and wind-up lights are fantastic.

The wind-up lights in particular are great if your light dims; simply wind it up a little, and you are good to go again. For the lanterns with lower light output (like those used in a tent), the solar lights are a great option providing you remember to leave them out in the sun on a clear day. Keep in mind that if you’re camping in cloudy or rainy weather, you may need a backup!

Flood Lights

A flood light easily generates enough output to light up a whole camping area – fantastic when you arrive at camp in the dark!

You won’t need to wear your headtorch around camp if you set up lighting around your tent. Image: Korr Lighting

Frequently Asked Questions

How Many Light Bars do I Need for a Campsite?

Light bars come in many sizes, starting at 25cm – equivalent to the light you would find in a lantern. The largest is 100cm in length, which is enough to light up a gazebo or tent awning from one direction.

A light bar kit includes up to 5 bars, which is more than enough for an entire campsite. This is well within standard 12V socket ratings and provides 1-3 days of continuous lighting from a deep cycle auxiliary battery (as mentioned above). While you could run this from your regular car battery, it’s not recommended; it could flatten your battery after a day of use, or if you accidentally leave them on.

You can also use extension leads to create bigger gaps so that you can set up the bars all around the tent/shelter or campsite. The benefit of choosing a kit is that it comes equipped with different-sized leads, having it easy to customise to your specifications.

A single bar kit won’t allow you those options, as you will need to separately purchase leads in order to use it with the rest of your gear. So, this is more so an option if you’re looking to add more illumination to your current setup.

Illuminating your whole campsite will be fairly easy with one light bar kit. Image: Korr Lighting

Mounting Light Bars to Your Tent or Awning Pole

Purchase pole clamps, which will connect onto the rear channel of the light bar. This accessory provides you with some extra versatility to move your lighting around to suit your needs at any given time. Or, use Velcro strips or cable ties for a more permanent application.

White or Orange Lights?

Colour temperature is a feature to pay attention to. You can find everything from cool white to yellow or red. Bright white or cool, blue-coloured lights can attract bugs, so colour is something to factor into your decision. While white light will provide better visibility, orange will significantly reduce the presence of insects.

If you choose to use white LEDs, avoid hanging them above cleaning/washing or food areas. This will draw bugs to the area, which can become messy and unsanitary while preparing meals. To be on the safe side, choose both white and orange lights.

Keep in mind that if you want to extend your dual colour lighting system, you will need to use dimmers and cable kits that are compatible with dual orange/white light bars and other products.

You have the option of white or orange coloured LEDs. Image: Korr Lighting

Extending My Light Kit/Lighting Setup

This will depend on what brand of lighting you have. Some brands design their kits so that you don’t have to solder anything. Instead, you can purchase extra leads to extend and customise it as you like. Just make sure they’re compatible.

Can I run my 12V camping lights from a 240 power point?

Yes, but you will need a transformer/plug pack that can handle the power draw of your lights.

Are light kits compatible across different brands?

The only way to know if parts are compatible across various ranges is to check if the connectors fit. However, it is recommended to stick with the same manufacturer. These plugs are made to be water resistant, so ensure to use compatible brand components to form a tight seal.

Do you have any other queries about 12V lighting? Let us know in the comments below. 

The post Guide to 12V Camp Lighting appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Sorry!

This article is for people who want some guidance on choosing a 12V camping fridge – no sales hype, no affiliations, and no bias.

Before we get started, I want to level the playing field by saying that there isn’t a fridge that can be definitively labelled as ‘the best’. There are just too many in-use variables, such as climate, vehicle space, budget, how it’s used, contents, size and volume, ambient temperature, and personal preference. The list goes on.

Something worth keeping in mind is the old adage, ‘you get what you pay for’. Even this can sometimes be misleading, but more on that later.

Knowledge is power, so arm yourself with the following information. Instead of asking, ‘what is the best camping fridge?’ Let’s rephrase the question to be:

How do I choose the best fridge for me?

Set up your campsite comfortably and keep your gear conveniently accessible. Image: Companion

Different Fridges for Different Scenarios

Thermoelectric: For Shorter Trips

A thermoelectric fridge is more of a cooling box, as it doesn’t usually become as cold as a fridge. They work using the Peltier effect: the ability to create heating or cooling when electricity passes through two different conductors. If electricity is passed through a metal plate in a particular direction, the plate becomes hot. If it passes in the opposite direction, it becomes cold. A fan pushes air across the cold plate and into the box, cooling it down.

These fridges are great for picnics and short road trips. They’re also popular among couriers and truck drivers in keeping lunch and drinks cold.

Three-Way: For Longer Stays

A three-way fridge can be run on LPG gas, 12-volt, and 240-volt power supplies. When used correctly, it is both very efficient and reliable. Three-way fridges operate via an absorption method: a fully-sealed system that relies on heat for ignition.

Both water and ammonia are heated in a ‘generator’, soon rising to a ‘separator’. Here, the water and ammonia gas are split. The ammonia gas rises to a ‘condenser’, where it cools to liquid form, combines with hydrogen, and evaporates. This removes the heat from the cabinet. From there, the solution travels to an ‘absorber’, where the ammonia combines with water to initiate the cycle again.

Three-way fridges are ideal for extended stays at a shack, or if you intend to set up camp for long periods. They’re also suitable for 4WDrivers, and as caravan fridges.

Compressor Fridges: Popular All-Rounders

Compressor fridges are the most popular camping fridge, due to their low current draw and high cooling efficiency. Common brands such as Dometic (previously Waeco) and Engel are famous for their compressor-driven fridges.

To keep it simple: a compressor is used to pump refrigeration gas around the system. The gas is compressed into a liquid and sent to the cooling elements where it evaporates, removing heat from the cabinet. The gas is then pumped through the outer fins, releasing the heat before returning to the compressor.

Be it camping, 4WDriving, or just an extra fridge/freezer at home – compressor fridges do it all!

Some fridge models have separately available accessories like portable battery packs. Image: myCOOLMAN

Brand

Brand kind-of goes hand in hand with price.

Whilst some high-end brands include a modified and affordable option within their range, they generally all fit within a price bracket. Furthermore, many of the big players share similar price tags for comparable models.

Debating which brand of fridge is the best for camping is like debating which brand of car is best for driving. It all depends on the individual.

Take a $10K hatchback from Holden, for example. It’s got a manual gearbox, steel rims, a simple interior, fabric seats, and a motor that delivers decent performance throughout the car’s life. It will get you from A to B, while being reasonably fuel-efficient.

Alternatively, a $50K BMW hatch will have a smooth automatic gearbox, polished alloys, and heated leather seats. It’ll likely also offer connectivity out of the wazoo, one-touch ignition, smart tech that almost drives the car for you, and a motor that performs throughout the lifespan of the car. This option will also get you from A to B and be reasonably efficient on fuel.

Someone with a low budget who needs a city runabout is going to be happy with the Holden, but if budget is not an issue and a lot of time is spent behind the wheel, the BMW is likely to be more desirable.

The same analogy can be applied to portable fridges.

Both options are going to keep your drinks cold and be comparable in power consumption – but the more you spend on a fridge, the better the build and the more features there are to benefit from. The big brands will offer more service agents, better warranties, and readily available parts. You may spend a little more money spent now, but this will most likely mean less problems in the future. All things considered, ensure the brand has a reputation for the right reason!

With the right setup, you can even take ice creams camping. Image: Dometic

Price

When it comes to fridges, ‘you get what you pay for’ is a principle that should be applied – but this doesn’t mean you need the most expensive fridge.

If you need a fridge for a one-off occasion, a $200 no-brand marketplace bargain is probably money well spent. Cheaper fridges can be a great option for occasional use, and often come with more features. However, if your cheap fridge fails, the repair cost could outweigh the amount you originally paid for the fridge. 

Expensive fridges should have all the features and the reliability to go with them. Furthermore, reputable brands will have authorised repair agents and a good warranty behind them. These are benefits you are unlikely to have with a cheaper purchase.

If you are a regular camper and/or 4WD tourer, and decide to buy a cheap fridge – it’s likely that you will have to replace it multiple times and carry the burden of unknown reliability on every trip. Paying a little more upfront eases stress, and may end up costing less in the long run. Just think: ‘buy once, buy right’!

Generally, thermoelectric fridges cost under $200. With the absence of a compressor too, these cooling boxes are often quite small and boast plenty of internal space. On the other hand – although the introduction of cheaper, generic brands has helped to bring the price down – compressor fridges tend to be more expensive. With gas, 12-volt, or 240-volt power options, three-way fridges are very versatile and can be bought brand new for as little as $300.

Fridge slides help keep your fridge easily accessible. Image: Dometic

Compressor

Compressors are at the core of fridge operation. They perform the role of both a motor and a pump, and move the refrigerant through the system. A fridge using a reputable compressor is a good indicator of quality, dependability, and the manufacturer’s confidence in their product.

The Sawafuji Swing Motor has proven its reliability for decades, with a trusted reputation. The former well-known brand, Danfoss, was purchased by SECOP a few years ago and continues to perform. Recent years have seen some leading brands such as Dometic (previously Waeco) produce their own compressor, proven to be very efficient and reliable.

LG compressors are used in some of the more affordable fridges. Given they’re from an identifiable brand though, they give the fridge more credibility than a no-name compressor. Unknown compressors lack a proven track record and so have the potential to create headaches and disappointment. A good quality compressor will keep your food cold over years of outback travel.

Size

A couple will usually use a 40-50-litre fridge, where a large family may require 65 litres or more. Consider the length of your trip/s, and if you can re-stock en route. Ultimately, size should heavily influence your choice – no fridge is of any use if it doesn’t fit in your allocated space. The space within your vehicle may also be a limiting factor.

Record the dimensions of the area in which you will be installing your fridge, taking into consideration clearance for the lid. Next, load up your kitchen bench with a heap of the food and drink you’d expect to take camping, and estimate/measure the volume this food takes up.

If you’re packing light with powdered milk and canned veggies, you will need less fridge space than those taking fresh food. Take particular note of long or wide items, such as wine bottles or ice cream containers. Make sure you consider any additional dimensions that a fridge slide or cover may occupy, as well as the direction the lid will open.

It’s highly unlikely you’ll find a fridge that fits perfectly, but having these measurements ready as you sift through your options will at least help you eliminate the unsuitable models.

Think about how much food you need to keep fresh inside your fridge. Image: Dometic

Power Consumption and Efficiency

The current draw of a fridge is measured in ‘a/h’ (amps per hour). Many good electric fridges should use between 1–2 a/h, over a 24-hour period. Power consumption should be based on real-world testing. Look for stats like:

– 5°C interior, 32°C ambient, 12 V = 0.89a/h over 24hours

This means that from a 12V power supply, a fridge set at 5°C in a 32°C environment will consume an average of 0.89 amps/hour over 24 hours. Compressor fridges will cool very effectively, often able to reach temperatures of -18 degrees (even on hot days). They operate efficiently on 12-volt, 24-volt, and 240-volt power, and depending on internal and external temperatures average around one amp per hour of power consumption.

Thermoelectric fridges can only cool to 20-30 degrees below ambient temperature. As they consume power at around 4-5 amps per hour, they can’t be left running off your car for more than a few hours. On 12-volt, a three-way fridge will use up to 6 amps an hour (which is a huge current draw)!

A high current draw is not always a bad thing. Fridges like the Waeco CFX will draw high currents over a short period, as the compressor reduces the internal temperature quickly. These short bursts of high current can average out less over a 24-hour period than a compressor with low current draw running for longer periods.

Three-way fridges tend to be very efficient on gas. Around 1kg of gas can provide up to a week of operation, and drop temperatures even to the point of freezing some items in the cabinet.

You’ll come across a never-ending barrage of opinions and tests detailing which fridge is the most efficient. For that reason, you might shoot me down for this, but…in my opinion, there is no single fridge or brand that can be championed as the most efficient!

In a test bound by parameters, you will likely arrive at a top performer. Nonetheless, what happens if one of those parameters changes? How many variations of them should you test? More importantly, is it even worth the effort when you’re likely to come up with marginal performance differences at best?

Instead of focusing on a top performer, it’s more important to match your battery and solar setup to effectively power the fridge that suits your needs. To help with this, check out the Snowys blog ‘Understanding 12V Battery and Solar Setups for Your 4WD’.

Console fridges can be conveniently installed between your vehicle front seats. Image: Bushman

Features

For me, I just need my fridge to keep my food cold. For many though, it’s the extras that make all the difference – and these should play a significant role in your fridge choice.

Nowadays, there’s a host of technology integrated into some models, including features like Bluetooth and WiFi apps, wireless temperature gauges, and connectivity. Some models even have magnetised lithium batteries, plus additional device charging options with built-in USB ports. If these are important to you, you’ll quickly come to crossing off the makes and models that don’t have them.

Battery protection saves your battery from damage, especially useful if your only power supply is also your vehicle starter battery. Look for variable protection – some fridges are set to a very low protection voltage (usually 9.5V) to protect the compressor, but not your battery.

The ability to set the fridge to a specific temperature is very convenient, while a thermometer monitors the interior temperature of your fridge. Both a bung in the bottom and flush mount cooling elements built into the side of the fridge (as opposed to bolted-in elements make for easier cleaning too. A reversible/removable lid is also handy for accessing your fridge in hard-to-reach places.

Handle configuration and tie-down points, nutserts in the base for semi-permanent fixing, the location of the control panel, and even bottle openers are all features you’ll be glad you considered over and above brand and power consumption to ensure your fridge is functional in your personal camp setup.

Decide what kind of features are important to you. Image: Companion

Dual-Zone Fridge/Freezers

A fridge/freezer operates as a fridge or freezer – but not at the same time. On the other hand, a dual-zone fridge/freezer has two compartments and works as a fridge and freezer simultaneously.

Some dual-zone models have a removable internal divider to allow the entire unit to be a fridge or freezer. The downside here is that the fridge may use more power if it’s relying on the smaller cooling element that most dual-zone fridges are equipped with.

Some dual-zone fridges have independent compartments and thermostats too, allowing you to control the temperature of both the fridge and freezer separately.

Strength

If you use your fridge in a marine environment, a metal casing may be prone to rust over time. Otherwise, don’t stress over this.

Both metal and polypropylene cases on high-end fridges are very strong. Metal casings are tough – great for the back of a Ute! Cheaper models opt for lighter materials and are more prone to dents and scratches, but this is often only from cosmetic damage. Plastic will flex with impact, which is a good option for touring. A strong fridge will allow you to stand on its lid – just ask the sales guy to show you!

Fibreglass can be a good option for boats, as it won’t take on any fishy smells and can be effective without a cover. That said, it is prone to impact damage – but once again, this will likely just be cosmetic, and won’t affect performance.

Compressor fridges are built strong and designed to handle harsh outback environments – but no fridge is specifically made to withstand all that mother nature will throw at it. While they can handle a few bumps and often mounted on the back of 4WD Utes, they are an electrical appliance that should be installed in a protected space.

Ideally, a portable fridge should be installed in a protected space. Image: Engel

Operation, Insulation, and Ventilation

Most 12V fridges will run on 24V to suit a truck’s electrical system, and usually include a 240V cable and/or transformer. If a 240V transformer is not included, buying one could add $50–$100 to your purchase.

LPG fridges run very efficiently from gas. This has them ideal for long-stay camps, where they can be removed from the vehicle and attached to a gas bottle. Usually they can also be run from 12V, but this power supply makes them hungry and thus less suitable for trips where gas refills are not available.

Look for fridges with thick insulation. Plastic fridges will conduct less heat than metal, while white fibreglass offers the best insulation. Better insulation reduces the workload for the compressor.

While they’re safe to leave running in the car, compressor fridges nonetheless require some ventilation to keep the compressor cool. On the other hand, three-way fridges cannot run safely on gas within a car or caravan. Good ventilation is required, which involves taking it out of your vehicle and running it on gas every time you make a stop. This will be every night, due to its current draw.

Three-way fridges also often come with a bubble level, to aid with keeping them level. If they’re not, they will fail to operate sufficiently. They produce a lot of heat too, which must escape both out the back and from the top of the fridge. It will need to be packed carefully and allowed plenty of room, not recommended within an enclosed boot or box.

Cover

This accessory is a common add-on to any fridge. You don’t need one, but it does offer some benefits – namely protection, and a little more insulation from direct sun to prevent metal or plastic from heating up. Plus, it often provides a few extra storage pockets.

I’d suggest asking for a package deal with any fridge that includes the cover – but if your budget doesn’t allow for this, it’s not the end of the world.

A cover protects your fridge and offers additional insulation. Image: Companion

Conclusion

Everyone is going to have their opinion on which brand produces the best fridge and, just like the Holden vs Ford debate, there is no right answer.

Stop stressing about efficiency. Most 12V fridges are pretty good nowadays anyway.

Instead, make sure you understand your power requirements – and match your battery setup with this!

If you’ve never heard of the brand, do some research. Find out what compressor is used in the model you’re interested in, and look for evidence of a good reputation – including both product support and after-sales service. Always buy from a reputable retailer.

Reviews are a good way to gather a sense other users’ opinions, but don’t focus on the small percentage of negative reviews. Even Uluru, one of Australia’s natural wonders, gets an average of 4.5 stars from over 2000 reviews, and The Twelve Apostles gets 4.6 from more than 9000 reviews. Some people are impossible to please.

Approach your fridge purchase by listing any specifics you require first, and budget for as much as you are comfortable spending. Then, all you need to do is find a model that best fits these parameters.

Knowledge > budget > needs > wants > go!

Hopefully, you can now approach your purchase of a 12V portable fridge with confidence. Know what questions to ask, don’t be swayed by brand affiliations, and don’t be the victim of any commission-influenced advice.

It’s a big purchase – so make sure you buy the fridge that’s right for you!

What better way is there for keeping your catch of the day fresh than with a camping fridge? Image: myCOOLMAN

So, which fridge is best for you?

The post So…What is the Best Camping Fridge? appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The LCC27 is a new gas cylinder connection, replacing the existing Type 21 (or POL) fitting on common 4-kilogram and 9-kilogram LPG gas cylinders for BBQs and leisure gas appliances. This new fitting has an impact on both the cylinder valve and gas hose fittings.

Why do we need it?

POL gas fittings have always posed a risk of gas leaks, where:

• A safe connection was entirely dependent on the user tightening the connection adequately,
• The thread was counterintuitive, in that it tightened in the opposite direction to most other threaded connections used in everyday life, and
• Gas could flow whenever the valve was opened, regardless of whether an appliance was attached.

All these things increased the risk of a poor connection, resulting in a gas leak.

Credit: Gasmate

What does the new fitting offer?

The LCC27 fitting increases safety, is much easier to use, and features:

• An integrated ‘check-valve’ that does not allow gas to flow when the valve is opened, unless an appliance is securely attached to the cylinder,
• A gas seal achieved at the connection point prior to the check-valve being opened by the fitting of the appliance, irrespective of how tightly the ‘nut’ has been fastened by the user,
• An intuitive and visible external right-handed ACME thread, far easier to connect and tighten with a large plastic ‘nut’, and
• A large plastic ‘nut’ designed to soften in the event of a fire at or near the cylinder. This allows the appliance fitting to eject, in turn triggering the check-valve to stop gas flow.

Which LPG cylinders have the new LCC27 fitting?

This change impacts the 9kg and 4-4.5kg cylinders that currently have a POL valve connection. Camping cylinders with upright 3/8 BSP fitting and large 45kg domestic cylinders are not impacted. This change is not applicable to Natural Gas or small disposable Butane canisters.

For more information on gas cylinder types and fittings, see here.

When will the change to LCC27 valves occur?

There has been a staged approach to this change, which negates the need to update everything straight away.

From April 1, 2021, gas cylinder suppliers began fitting the LCC27 valve to new LPG cylinders – but by October 1, 2021, it became mandatory. New LPG cylinders with the POL valve could no longer be sold, but cylinders that were in circulation could retain the POL fitting until their re-test date was reached. At this point, as part of the re-test process, they are required to have the LCC27 valve fitted.

It was also as of October 1, 2021, that manufacturers could start fitting the LCC27 fitting to new gas appliances and hoses at the time of manufacture; this became mandatory by April 1, 2022. New appliances in circulation with the POL fitting could and still can be sold, compatible with cylinders fitted with the LCC27 valve.

What does it mean for POL appliances and hoses?

If you have an appliance and cylinder with POL fittings, you can continue to use it as normal until your cylinder reaches its 10-year testing date, at which point it will need to be fitted with a new LCC27 valve. The LCC27 valve is backwards-compatible, so you can continue to use the POL fitting on your appliance.

New appliances with the LCC27 fitting, however, will not connect to a cylinder with a POL valve. This is important to note if you utilise an exchange program for your cylinders, as there may be a mixture of valves available for swap until they have all surpassed their 10-year re-testing requirements.

Credit: Gasmate

There is likely to be a mixture of LCC27 and POL valves available at cylinder exchange services for years to come – so if you have an appliance with the new LCC27 fitting, make sure you swap your cylinder for one with the LCC27 valve.

If your POL fitting is the type with a rubber ‘nose’ on the end, check to ensure it doesn’t get left behind in the LCC27 valve when the hose is removed. This can jam the valve and render your POL hose fitting useless the next time you wish to use it.

Theoretically, flexible gas hoses should be replaced every 10 years, before they start to crack and leak. If yours is older than this, it’s a good time to switch over to the new LCC27 fitting.

Can adaptors be used with the LCC27 valve?

Any adapter added into the system is a potential leakage point, so it’s recommended to avoid the use of them where possible. Further to this, for gas installations in caravans, campers, and motorhomes covered by the standard AS/NZS 5601, adaptors are specifically prohibited.

Portable recreational appliances that are attached directly to a cylinder, i.e. camp stoves and BBQs, are not covered by this standard, but the use of adaptors is still a bit of a grey area.

It is commonly stated that adaptors must not be used to connect an appliance with a new LCC27 connection to a cylinder with a POL valve. The primary concern here is that the change of thread direction on the LCC27 valve means that tightening one side of the adaptor could potentially result in the loosening of the other side.

An adaptor will work to connect a small appliance with a 3/8 BSP fitting to the new LCC27 valve via a POL – 3/8 LH BSP adaptor… but consider that once you have attached the adaptor to the LCC27 valve, you have opened the check valve and gas will flow anytime the valve is opened. For this reason, it’s recommended to remove the adaptor for transport.

On the flip side, you could also connect a large appliance with an LCC27 hose to a small camping cylinder via a 3/8 LH BSP – POL adaptor, if one becomes available – but it’s not recommended. Firstly, it introduces another potential leak point, and secondly, a small cylinder may struggle to supply enough gas on account of something called ‘gas evaporation rate limitation’. There’s a little more information on that in this article [https://www.snowys.com.au/blog/understanding-gas-for-camping-caravan-appliances/].

Replacement Hoses for LCC27 Valve

Replacement hoses are and will be available; they fall within the same timeframes mentioned above regarding the introduction of the LCC27 fitting on appliances.

Gas Cylinder Re-fills with the LCC27 Gas Valve

There is no change here, apart from the fitting used by gas re-fillers in the decanting process. Gas cylinders with the POL valve that are still in date can be refilled.

Caravans and the LCC27 Gas Valve

Caravans manufactured after April 1, 2022, are required to have the LCC27 fitting. Older caravans should, in theory, have their flexible hoses replaced every 10 years – so the next time you take your caravan to a service centre, it’s worth having the hoses and fittings changed over at the same time. Keep in mind that you’ll also need to change your gas cylinders when you do this… so maybe make sure they are as good as empty first.

We’ve discussed the new LCC 27 fitting and regulations in detail on the Snowys Camping Show, you can watch or listen here >>

More Information

Gas Energy Australia is the national peak body encompassing Australia’s leading gas providers, and is a good reference for rules and regulations on LPG gas. Further to this, most gas providers and state regulatory bodies provide information specific to your location.

There are many good reasons for switching your gas appliances over to the LCC27 fitting, but safety and ease of use are the most significant. Next time you need to re-fill your cylinder, or replace a gas fitting on your leisure gas appliance, consider changing your entire system over to the LCC27 gas fitting.

A very big thank you to Ben Greeneklee who, with over 20 years of experience in gas appliance manufacturing and testing, assisted with the technical accuracy of the information in this article.

The post POL & LCC27 Gas Fittings: Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Of course, the need for a portable toilet is not as necessary if you’re staying at a campsite with suitable amenities. However, if you’re heading off-grid, then you’ll need to consider your options. There’s no way around it, we’re all human – and when we gotta go, we gotta GO!

Simple camp toilets

Folding frames

An upgrade from the basic dig and squat method, folding frames are just as their name suggests. They are compact, foldable frames with a toilet seat attached or a foldable box with a toilet seat top and lid.

Both the folding frame and box designs can be placed over a deep hole which is then dealt with in the same way as the dig and squat method. Many consider this option to be the freshest smelling dunny you’ll ever use when camping. But you need to be camping in a remote location and you go about things responsibly.

Instead of digging a hole, some people prefer to attach a plastic bag and use that for the catchment. The box styles like Jimmy’s Thunder Box and Companion’s Bush Dunny have space within the enclosed area for a bucket to be used instead of, or in addition to a plastic bag.

Buckets

There’s the option to skip using a frame and go straight for a bucket. Some opt for a multiple bucket system and once full, they secure a lid over the top so they can be safely transported to a suitable dump point. Others choose to line the bucket and fit a toilet seat over the top for comfort. Or we’ve even heard of people custom fitting a foam pool noodle over the bucket rim. The idea here is to slit the noodle length-wise through to the hollow core and then fit the cut around the lip of the bucket. According to Kenneth in our YouTube comments, it’s ‘the most comfortable toilet I’ve ever sat on‘.

The ready-to-go Thunder Down Under Toilet bucket is designed to be used with a bio-degradable liner but is the same concept as the bucket idea above, and recent additions to the range include collapsible toilets that take up minimal space in your vehicle but expand out to a comfortable sitting height when setup. Some people feel a little nervous about a collapsible toilet, but rest assured we are yet to hear of one collapsing mid-job.

The main consideration here is the responsible disposal of your waste, and also whether or not you have the packing space to accommodate the bucket inside your vehicle (unless you go down the collapsible path). Bear in mind that on your return trip, this bucket will likely have its contents inside unless you dig a nice deep hole. One that is deeper than a basic dig and squat hole as you need to cater for more than the one toilet trip.

Shop framed & bucket style toilets here >>

Modular separating toilets

There is really only one toilet quite like this, the Joolca GottaGo, and it very quickly gained popularity when it hit the market. It has a flushless design and doesn’t require water meaning there is more space for waste, and they are easier to transport.

These toilets feature a separating design so your number one’s and number two’s end up in different tanks, reducing bad smells and creating versatility when it comes to disposing of your waste. The tank for number one’s can be thoughtfully disposed near a tree, while number two’s either go into a hermetically sealed tank where you can use chemicals and dispose of at a dump point, or opt for the eco tank where you can use bags or compost your waste.

Portable chemical toilets

Portable chemical toilets can be a little more complicated and have a few extra features to think about, so let’s break these options down.

The Thetford range may not be the cheapest brands on the market, but when it comes to toilets you don’t want to take shortcuts. A cheaper brand can be made with inferior materials which can result in leaks and frankly, no one wants a leaky loo!

You want your toilet to do its job and spending a bit more on a quality unit means that the seals will be airtight and should you ever need to replace something, then spare parts are available.

If you have a specific space in mind for permanently housing your unit, for example, a camper or caravan. Or, if there’s a space designated to store/transport your toilet, then dimensions will be important.

For those who are tall, have difficulty in squatting or have knee/back issues, then the height of your toilet becomes a major consideration. Throughout both the Thetford and Dometic ranges, height varies between just over 30cm up to 40cm. Thetford also has two deluxe options that sit a smidge over 44cm but we’ll talk a little more about those later.

Anatomy of a portable toilet

These features are similar across models and brands, they may just feature in a different location or unique format. Here’s the lowdown on the most common features and functions on portable camp toilets.

At the front?

• Carry handle – most toilets have a carry handle somewhere, Thetford has theirs on the rear, Joolca is built into the base.
• Waste indicator – not all models feature a waste indicator on the front of the unit. The models using the feature may cost a little bit extra but it’s much nicer to gauge how full your holding tank is without having to open it up. The style of indicator differs between brands but the concept and float mechanism are largely the same.
  • A – Thetford’s Porta Potti 145 does not have an indicator.
  • B – Thetford’s Porta Potti 365 has a little window that changes from green to red indicating when the cassette/holding tank is full.
  • C – Another example of a tank level indicator.
• Flush button – The toilets on the right have a button that is part of the flushing action, this is unique to this toilet which is no longer available.
• Lever – each of these units has a lever which controls the valve inside the toilet, the models pictured are at the front, Joolca has theirs to the side. When pulled out, the lever opens the valve and allows your waste to deposit into the holding tank.

On top?

• Lid – pretty self-explanatory, remember to put it down after use to avoid arguments..
• Seat – the part you sit on, better quality toilets offer more comfort… make sure you put this bit down too,
• Bowl and valve – the bowl directs your business towards the hole at the bottom which is sealed by the valve to keep smeels contained once you’re finished.
• Flush discharge nozzle – for flushing models, these are moulded into the inner sides of the bowl beneath the rim. When you flush, the chemically-treated flush water stored within the top tank is discharged from the nozzles and swirls around the bowl to clean and aid your waste through the open valve.
• Fill port – for toilets that have a flushing action this is the capped opening where you fill your flush-water tank (the upper chamber) and also your rinsing chemical/water mix.
• Flush water tank – beneath the surface lives the flush water tank and the capacity of this varies across brands and models.

Pumps and the ‘Pooker’

Illustrated below are the three types of most commonly used pumps in flushing models.

• D – piston pump
  • these are the most popular type of pump and the easiest to use.
  • this pump creates a high-pressure seal and forces the flush water into the bowl which washes the waste away.
• E – bellows pump
  • these feature on the cheaper units and are possibly the pump that requires the most effort to use.
  • they involve a lot of moving components and although replaceable, they are probably the part that suffers the most wear after a significant amount of use.
• F – pressure pump
  • this pump is step 1 in a dual-action flush system and brings into play the button that features at the front of the Dometic units (step 2).
  • you need to pump it up and down a number of times (approx. 15-20) to build enough pressure and then once the button is pressed, the air is released which discharges the flush water.
  • when the air pressure is released, it simulates the sound of a normal flushing toilet.
• Pooker stick
  • Joolca have included this little gem with their toilet as they don’t have a flushing feature, instead you wrap the end of the ‘Pooker’ in clean toilet paper, give the bowl a spray with an eco friendly vinegar and water mix, then get to work cleaning the bowl before poking the toilet paper down into the waste tank.

The holding tank

This image below shows Thetford on the left and another example brand on the right.

Obviously, there are size variants with waste holding tanks across both brands, ranging between 12-litres and 21-litres. But the waste holding tank is otherwise very similar.

• Rear lever – to separate the two tanks, the toilets generally have a horizontally actioned lever or similar on the back that releases the locking mechanism and allows you to unclip the top chamber from the bottom chamber.
• Valve – This is the valve that is controlled by the lever generally located on the front of the units and is what creates the airtight hermetic seal on the bottom chamber.
• Pouring spout – this pipe has a removable threaded cap and a firm swivel action to allow secure stowing when not in use. This port is used for the disposal of your waste and is the same between brands.
• Breather vent – this comes into play when you are emptying your toilet cassette, it creates an air intake to stop glugging and splashing when emptying – indicated by G and H in the image above.
  • G – Thetford and Joolca feature a button that must be pressed down while you tip your waste out of the pouring spout and into the dump point.
  • H – An example of another brand that uses a dial that you move from close to open before you tip your waste out and it will stay in its position without being held.

Carrying and disposal

• Carrying
  • If you are stationed in a caravan park where a dump point is easily accessible, it’s so much easier to empty every 3-days or so. Don’t wait until your holding tank is full, as the fuller it is, the heavier it will be!
  • Think of water volume to weight ratio where approximately 1-litre = 1-kg. use this for a guide but then add a little more to accommodate the weight of your sullage. If your waste holding tank has the larger capacity of 21-litres, that’s at least 21kg that you’ll be lugging to the dump point.
  • Of course, if you are travelling remotely and based somewhere for an extended period of time, emptying more regularly might not be an option, but it is worth bearing in mind when planning your itinerary, and also when deciding upon a larger unit.
• Seal
  • Better quality units have more airtight seals. Once the valve is closed over the waste holding tank it creates a hermetic seal so you can confidently carry your tank on its side by the handle.
• Disposal
  • The pouring spout and the breather vent (G and H previously mentioned) work simultaneously.
  • The breather vent allows air to come in, preventing splatter and enabling an even flow of sullage out of the port.

Portable toilet accessories

Toilet chemicals

From the questions and comments that we’ve received, it seems many people are scared, confused or mystified over the chemicals required to maintain your portable camp toilet. There’s a huge range available so that might contribute to uncertainty but really, here are the basic things to remember.

• There are two distinct types:
  • One is for the flush-water tank and helps to clean your bowl, deodorise and lubricates the seals on the bottom of the unit.
  • The other is for the waste holding tank and helps to break down your poo, wee and toilet paper – liquefying it for easy disposal. This chemical also reduces that build-up of gas within your holding tank and therefore, helps to keep the stink factor down!
• Nope, you do not have to use the same brand of chemical as your brand of toilet.
• Yes, it is a good idea to pre-mix your measured dose with water before adding to the water inside your tank.
• Chemicals are available in liquid or tablet form
• There are all-in-one tablet options available
• Yes, there is a more eco-friendly choice.

Shop toilet chemicals here >>

Toilet paper

When using a system that manages its own waste, be it the dig and squat method, a bucket, or a portable chemical toilet, it’s best to avoid regular toilet paper. Instead, choose a paper type that will more readily break down, and is made without synthetic dyes and fragrances.

• Thetford has developed their Aqua Soft Toilet Paper specifically for use in chemical toilets. It’s designed to prevent clogging and dissolve quickly.
• Who Gives a Crap is toilet paper on a mission! These rolls aren’t necessarily designed for camp toilets, but without all the dyes and fragrances, this paper will also break down quickly.

Sea to Summit’s Ultra-Sil® Outhouse is a waterproof toilet paper holder that can hang wherever you need it and will keep your loo paper dry and dirt-free.

Toilet carry bags

A toilet bag helps to keep dust and grime off your toilet while it’s in storage and transit. Plus, they make for easy carrying from A to B.

A good quality canvas and/or PVC toilet bag such as those manufactured in Australia by Blacksmith Camping Supplies and Navigator will set you back the most cash but provides the most peace of mind when it comes to transporting something you definitely don’t want escaping the confines of the toilet, let alone a toilet bag. OZtrail always offer a reliable and affordable option if your budget doesn’t stretch that far whilst Joolca have their own GottaGo Toilet Bag.

Shop toilet bags, toilet paper & accessories here >>

Hopefully, that deep dive into the dunny has made your decision easier. If you’re after a recap or 3D perspective, watch Ben’s video above, some of the products featured are no longer available, and new versions have come onto the market, but it still provides a good overview of toilet types.

What are your main considerations when choosing your camp toilet?

The post How to Choose a Camp Toilet appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The newly launched CFX3 range from Dometic are fresh off the factory floor and making their splash online among campers and adventures around the world.

Dometic are known as one of the leading portable fridge manufacturers in the world. Over the past couple of years, they’ve had a name change from Waeco to Dometic, and have successfully launched their CFXW range which have been super popular and well-loved among our customers. Now, after taking on feedback from their customers and ambassadors, Dometic have created a new range of fridges called the CFX3.

Featuring their most advanced technology, as well as some upgrades to their previous CFX range, the CFX3 comes with the following 6 models to choose from:

• CFX3 35 Portable Fridge/Freezer 36L
• CFX3 45 Portable Fridge/Freezer 46L
• CFX3 55 IM Fridge/Freezer 53L
• CFX3 55 Portable Fridge/Freezer 55L
• CFX3 75DZ Dual Zone Fridge/Freezer 75L
• CFX3 95DZ Dual Zone Fridge/Freezer 94L

This range includes a fridge with an integrated ice maker and two dual-zone compartment models – so there’s something for virtually everyone.

If you are looking to upgrade your current unit or are considering ditching your esky for a fridge so that you can explore for longer on your adventures – we’ve broken down what you need to know about the CFX3 range below.

These units now have a rugged ExoFrame. Image: Dometic

XOS Frame

The CFX3 range features a rugged ExoFrame which is a lightweight thermo-formed plastic shell which in combination with structural insulation provides a pretty tough construction that can withstand the rigours of outdoor use.

Upgraded handles

The previous model featured plastic hinged handles which were very sturdy and reliable, but the CFX3 has been upgraded with cast aluminium hinges. This will give you a more secure and stronger anchor for your tie-down straps while being slightly more comfortable to use.

The intuitive lid latch means one-handed opening. Image: Dometic

Intuitive lid latch

This range of fridge/freezers features an improved lid latch that’s easier to open with one hand which makes them more user-friendly.

Updated CFX3 app and connectivity

The folks at Dometic have also updated the compatible app which now allows you to connect by both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth so you can control the temperature, receive smart alerts if you leave the lid open and track energy consumption so that it’s easier to keep an eye on the status of your fridge.

Updated connectivity makes monitoring your fridge a breeze. Image: Dometic 

Improved weather-protected user display & faster phone charging

Another element in the evolution of this fridge range is the improved user display. This colour display will show you the vitals of the unit so you can check the status of your fridge at a glance. It also features soft-touch controls that are more intuitive with up/down arrows and an ‘OK’ button so it’s easier to change the settings. The display now features weather protection along with the power input at the rear of the fridge for your peace of mind.

They’ve relocated the USB charging port so that it’s easier to access, and if you increase amps from 0.5A to 2.0A, you can charge your phone or other USB devices faster.

They’ve moved the charging port and increased the amps for more convenience. Image: Dometic

Elimination of dairy compartment – fully wrapped evaporator plate

Dometic have removed the dairy compartment in this new line, which creates extra space for your favourite foods. Without that compartment, the CFX3 range has a fully wrapped evaporator that extends around the walls above the compressor, which was not present on the CFXW range. This results in more even temperature throughout the interior of the unit, but it will use a little bit more energy.

Without the dairy compartment, the unit is more spacious. Image: Dometic

Energy consumption

The energy consumption of the CFXW and CFX3 range does differ. The CFXW range was tested at 5 degrees interior, while the CFX3 range has been tested at 4 degrees. The way they tested the CFX3 was different from the previous generation, as the results would have varied depending on whether the WiFi or Bluetooth was turned on during testing.

It also has a bigger cooling surface area (due to the removal of the dairy compartment) which gives you more even cooling but uses slightly more energy. The anti-condensation coil adds a small amount of heat to the interior which requires a bit of cooling energy to offset it as well. The CFX3 also has a TFT LCD display, which uses more energy than the old LED display.

Easier access to smaller models

On the CFX3 35 and CFX3 45, the main compartment has been moved so that it’s at the same end where you open the lid, so they’re more ergonomic and easy to access.

Anti-condensation coil heating prevents sweating in high humidity. Image: Dometic

Anti-condensation heating – reduces sweating in high humidity conditions

All the models of the range now feature anti-condensation coil heating around the top of the cabinet under the gasket, which was already a feature of the 75 and 95DZW models. This prevents water collecting around the top of the cabinet and freezing.

Addition of a model that features an ice maker

The CFX3 55IM allows you to make ice in your fridge while still using the main compartment as a fridge. There’s a dedicated evaporative plate above the compressor compartment, which will make ice in approximately 2.5 hours. There are two silicone ice trays included, and each tray will make enough ice for two drinks. The trays, lid and housing can also be removed if you don’t need them which increases the volume of the fridge to 55L from 53L as well.

The 55 IM allows you to make ice without affecting the performance of the unit. Image: Dometic

Will my CFX slide fit?

The CFX3 35/45/55/55IM models will not fit onto the older slides as the feet hole positions and the nutsert holes don’t align.

However, the CFX3 75DZ and CFX3 95DZ are compatible with the current slides CFX Fridge Slide 75 and the CFX Fridge Slide 95/100 which are ongoing products.

When will CFX3 slides be available?

There are two new models of slides that will be available. One that suits the CFX3 35/45 and another that suits the CFX3 55/55IM which will have a matte black finish. We’re unsure when they are due to land, but it should be in the next few months – so watch this space.

There are two new slides that will be available. Image: Dometic

Will my CFX cover fit?

Unfortunately, the CFX covers are not compatible with the CFX3 fridges as they are unique to each size.

When will CFX3 covers be available?

We don’t have a release date from Dometic about when their CFX3 covers will be available. But, what we do know is that they’re made from moulded EVA foam XOS frame ends, with integrated storage, the lid cover attaches and open with lid (no velcro) and are unique to each size. Check back with us in the coming months for updates on availability.

To summarise, here are the key features and benefits of the CFX3 range:

• Lighter in weight compared to previous generations
• Stronger handles for securing the fridge to vehicle/slide
• Easier to open latches
• Faster USB outlet for charging
• Easier access to main compartment on smaller models

That’s pretty much it when it comes to the new CFX3 range from Dometic. Please let us know in the comments below if we missed anything or if you have any further questions about the range.

What’s the best portable fridge you’ve ever used?

The post Guide to the Dometic CFX3 Fridge/Freezer Range appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Think about how you plan to use your fridge, someone roughing it on a lap around Australia will have different needs to a couple on a long weekend getaway at a caravan park and take these factors into consideration to make the selection process a little easier.

1. Is a bigger fridge capacity better?

• A couple will usually use a 40 – 50ltr fridge where a large family may require 65ltr or more.
• If you’re packing light with powdered milk and canned veggies, you will need less fridge space than those taking fresh food.
• Consider the length of your trip/s and if you can re-stock en-route.
• Vehicle space may be a limiting factor for the size of your fridge.

The first step is to work out how much food you need to store in your fridge.

2. Popular fridge brands come with a good reputation

• The big brands will have more service agents and readily available parts.
• A little more money spent now will most likely reduce problems in the future.
• Big brands come with a better warranty.
• Make sure the brand has a reputation for the right reason.

3. Fridges with good insulation will use less power

• Look for fridges with thick insulation.
• Plastic fridges will conduct less heat than metal, while white fibreglass offers the best insulation.
• A cover adds insulation and removes the issue of metal or plastic heating up.
• Better insulation reduces the workload on the compressor.

4. A good quality portable fridge will withstand the rugged roads of outback Australia

• You can stand on the lid of a strong fridge, ask the sales guy to show you.
• Metal casings are tough, great for the back of the ute.
• Plastic will flex when impacted, a good option for touring.
• White fibreglass is strong but prone to cosmetic damage, ideal for the boat.

5. The compressor is possibly the most important part of a fridge

• The compressor warranty is a good indicator of the manufacturer’s confidence in their product.
• Look for brands like SECOP (formerly known as Danfoss) and Sawa Fuji. Waeco now produces their own compressor which has proven to be very efficient and reliable.
• A good quality compressor will keep your food cold for years of outback travel.

The Waeco Compressor

6. Power consumption is a great way of comparing the efficiency of 12V fridges

• The current draw of a fridge is measured in “a/h” or “amps per hour”.
• Most good electric fridges should use between 1 – 2 a/h over a 24hour period.
• Power consumption should be based on real world testing –  Look for stats like ‘- 5°C interior, 32°C ambient, 12 V = 0.89a/h over 24hours’. This means that from a 12V power supply, a fridge set at 5°C in a 32°C environment will consume an average of 0.89 amps/hour over 24 hours.
• A high current draw is not always a bad thing. Fridges like the Waeco CFX will draw high current over a short period as the compressor reduces the internal temperature quickly. These short burst of high current can average out less over a 24 hour period than a compressor with low current draw running for longer periods.

7. Features may not be an indication of quality, but some features are priceless

• Battery protection saves your battery from damage, especially useful if your only power supply is also your vehicle starter battery. Look for variable protection. Some fridges are set to a very low protection voltage (usually 9.5V) to protect the compressor, but not your battery.
• The ability to set the fridge to a specific temperature is very convenient.
• Thermometer – monitors the interior temperature of your fridge.
• A bung in the bottom makes cleaning easy.
• Flush mount cooling elements – having the elements build into the side of the fridge makes for easier cleaning than bolted in elements.
• Removable lid – handy for accessing your fridge in hard to reach places!

8. Do you need a dual-zone fridge/freezer?

• A fridge/freezer operates as a fridge or freezer, but not both at the same time, whereas a dual-zone fridge/freezer has two compartments and works as a fridge and freezer at the same time.
• Some dual zone models have a removable internal divider to allow the entire unit to be a fridge or freezer. The downside of this is that the fridge may use more power if it is relying on the smaller cooling element most dual zone fridges are equipped with.
• Some dual zone fridges have independent compartments and thermostats, allowing you to control the temperature of both the fridge and freezer separately.

A dual-zone fridge/freezer offers the best of both worlds, only with smaller compartments.

9. There are plenty of cheap options around… you get what you pay for!

• This doesn’t mean you need the most expensive fridge.
• Cheaper fridges can be a great option for occasional use and often come with more features.
• Expensive fridges should have all the features and the reliability to go with them.

10. Fridges are usually offered as package deals

• At Snowys, we always have fridges at our very best price every day. Unfortunately, these are not currently available to deliver online.
• Quite often the big brands will offer bonus packs.
• Don’t forget to ask for a cover.

At Snowys, our fridges are always in stock at every day low prices, usually with bonus packages. If you need some help making a decision we are just a phone call away – 1300 914 007.

The post A Camping Fridge Buying Guide – The Top 10 Features! appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We still need to respect certain restrictions put in place by national parks and campsite operators. This generally means using fire pits, bringing your own firewood (and keeping it dry), and then there are safety considerations, especially with children around.

So, keeping warm in the campsite is not as straightforward as striking a match. It’s simpler, with a portable gas heater!

Which gas heater is for you? Let’s have a look at the Snowys range of portable gas heaters.

The ultimate in campsite heaters

If you have plenty of storage space, maybe a caravan or camper trailer, the Mr Heater Portable Buddy gas heater is a luxurious choice.

With heat output ranging from 4000 BTU up to a massive 9000 BTU, the Buddy Heater is a robust and lightweight option to keep the whole family warm on a cold winter’s night.

Peace of mind comes with low oxygen and tip-over shut off safety systems, while ease of use comes from simple push button ignition.

The Buddy Heater is compact, nice to look at, and is oh-so-powerful!

Mr Heater Portable Buddy Heater runs from disposable 450gm propane cylinders and has the benefit of operating from your LPG gas cylinder with an optional gas hose for economical heating, and fewer cylinders to dispose of.

A smart choice for families with its built-in safety features, or great for use on the backyard patio.

Powerful, and connects straight to your gas bottle

Companion have released a powerful heating option, the Portable LP Gas Camp Heater. It boasts 12,300 BTU of heat and eliminates the need to carry disposable canisters on your travels by connecting straight to your gas bottle.

It has built in oxygen depletion and anti-tilt shut-off safety features making it a great addition to our camp heater range.

The new and blue Companion Portable LP Gas Heater.

Gas Heaters in tents and caravans

A common question we get asked is regarding the use of gas heaters inside tents and caravans. At Snowys, we DO NOT recommend using any portable heat source in an enclosed environment.

There should always be adequate ventilation to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is an odourless gas that will make you feel sleepy, tuck you up in bed and never come back to wake you up again. The other reason is to prevent oxygen depletion in the air. This is something that’s already occurring in a confined space as we breathe the oxygen in and breathe carbon dioxide out.

The only exception to this are catalytic heaters that are specifically marked for use in confined spaces. We’re sorry to say but the heaters available from Snowys are not marked as such.

What do you do to keep warm when camping in winter?

The post Outdoor Gas Heaters for Warm Winter Camping appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon to hear on the news or through friends of the bad experiences some people have when using gas appliances. Explosions and burns are a very real risk when using any gas appliance, and most of the time it’s due to an undetected gas leak, which is still dangerous even if there is no flame involved.

If you own a gas product then read on to find out how to handle your gas cylinder safely and detect potential leaks to prevent the worst scenario from happening to you or your loved ones!

Where can you fill up a gas cylinder?

Gas cylinders are filled by trained personnel at filling stations, often hardware and camping stores.

Not all gas is the same, and it’s worth having a basic understanding of the gas your appliance requires, and the gas you fill your cylinder with. The ‘LPG’ acronym is a name actually used for various forms of a similar gas, and natural gas is completely different. Head over here for more details on gas types.

Cylinders should never be filled all the way and are actually designed to allow 20% space above the full level of gas for expansion. Filling a gas cylinder all the way to the top is dangerous, but properly filled cylinders should never have a problem.

To monitor the level of gas inside your cylinder, you can use scales and the tare weights stamped on the side of the cylinder. The total weight of the cylinder minus the tare weight will give you an indication of the amount of gas left.

Do you need to get your gas cylinder tested?

Gas cylinders are tested and dated when they are made and have an expiry date of 10 years from the date of testing, once this date is reached it is no longer legal to refill the cylinder and it needs to be retested.

Testing is an inexpensive process that includes a safety inspection inside and out and a valve replacement before being re-stamped with a new test date by an approved test facility.

Connecting your appliance to your cylinder

Before you connect anything up, take note of any nearby ignition sources such as a campfire and make sure you are well clear.

Inspect everything. Check the hose for splits or damage, make sure rubber seals are in good condition, in particular, the rubber ‘nose’ on many POL fittings which are prone to splitting. It’s a good idea to check these things prior to any trip, replace anything that is damaged and carry spares.

It’s good practice to check these things well before you leave on your trip so you’ve got time to replace anything, If you find any damage or splits, don’t use it! Replace it! There’s nothing worse than finding out you can’t use your stove once you are at your campsite.

Once things are connected ensure fittings are tight keeping mind any left-handed threads, turn the gas on and check for leaks.

Keep the hose free of knots, kinks and away from sources of heat. Image: David Leslie

How to check your appliance for gas leaks:

This is the simplest and most effective action you can take to ensure the safe operation of any gas appliance. We’ve listed the steps below, Elgas has also made a useful video here.

Follow this process every time you connect your gas appliance to your cylinder.

Once you’ve securely connected your gas cylinder to your appliance, turn on the gas at the bottle and follow these steps BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO LIGHT ANYTHING!

1. Firstly, listen and check for a smell

Gas by itself is fairly odourless and therefore very difficult to detect. This is why a chemical called mercaptan is added that smells like rotten eggs, or sulphur.

We don’t recommend getting your nose up close to the cylinder as this can be dangerous, but if you can smell something once you’ve turned the gas on at the bottle – you have a leak!

Turn the gas off at the bottle, check your connections and turn the gas back on again. If the smell is gone, go to step 2.

Check for the scent of rotten eggs or sulphur from your appliance. Image: David Leslie. 

2. Get a bottle of soapy water

The best way to check for leaks is to use a spray bottle filled with soapy water. Apply the soapy water around the appliance connection, along the hose, around the regulator and up to the point at which the appliance is connected to the cylinder.

If you don’t have a spray bottle you can mix up some detergent and water and use a sponge or dishcloth to spread the soapy water around.

Mix up a bottle of soapy water to use to check your gear. Image: David Leslie. 

3. If you’ve got bubbles, turn the gas off – you’ve got a leak!

Once you’ve turned it on if bubbles start to appear anywhere – you have a leak! Turn the gas off at the bottle and do some investigating.

Once you think you’ve fixed the leak, go back to step one and repeat these three steps until you no longer have bubbles forming anywhere along your gas lines and connections.

Spray soapy water onto the rights areas, and turn on the gas cylinder to see if bubbles appear. Image: David Leslie

How to stop the leak

The majority of the time, a threaded connection to the hose or appliance leaks because it isn’t tight enough. Most connections can be tightened with a spanner, so make sure you check them all before use.

A lot of connections have a rubber O-ring or seal inside the thread. If this has perished or is missing then a leak will occur. This should be checked before and after every use.

We get asked if thread tape can be used to seal older or worn threaded connections, but ideally, these should just be replaced. The tape may not be a suitable solution to stop a leak, and if applied carelessly could block up gas flow causing other undesirable consequences.

Examine the O-ring to make sure it hasn’t been damaged or gone missing. Image: David Leslie

What to do if there is a fire

If the worst-case scenario occurs and you end up with a gas fire then stay calm and act quickly. Depending on where you are, the best response is to get everyone out of danger. Then call the emergency services for professional help. A gas fire is extremely serious and should be treated as such.

If it’s safe to access, turn off the gas cylinder as quickly as possible. This can sometimes put the fire out once the gas is cut. If it is safe to do so, remove the cylinder or any other gas cylinders from immediate heat.

In the event that it’s not safe to turn the cylinder off or move it and you don’t have phone reception to call for help or are in a remote area, then, unfortunately, the only course of action can be to wait for the gas to burn off. If you’re in this situation, and it’s safe to do so, move as much gear away from the area to avoid the fire spreading.

If you can access a hose, cool it off with water from a safe distance to prevent rupture. This is only used for a gas fire and not a fat or oil fire.

To prevent the worst, check your gas cylinder is in good condition before you use it. Image: David Leslie 

Transporting your cylinder

Never transport gas cylinders inside a car, caravan or camper trailer unless it is in a certified gas cylinder compartment.

Cylinders need to be transported securely in an upright position in a ventilated location. Many roof racks have specific cylinder holders and there are many secure options for safely restraining a gas cylinder for transport on the outside of a vehicle.

Open plastic crates like milk crates are great for transporting, storing and even keeping your gas cylinder in an upright position when in use, just make sure the crate has open sides such that it allows any leaked LPG to escape rather than build up inside.

The filling of gas cylinders whilst in a crate, however, is prohibited! Gas cylinder stations are made of metal including the stand allowing static electricity to be discharged between the cylinders. If your gas cylinder is in a plastic crate then the static electricity is not being discharged from your cylinder. Given the explosive atmosphere created when filling gas cylinders, any ignition source such as a spark from a build-up of static electricity is going to cause an explosion.

So, transport your cylinder in a milk crate, but remove it from the crate for refilling. And one last note, purchase your milk crate rather than ‘borrowing’ it from your local milk distribution company!

Other LPG safety tips

• Gas cylinders should always be stored upright in a well-ventilated area and never inside a dwelling or caravan unless in a certified cylinder compartment.
• Use a cap or plug on the connection to keep dust out.
• When not in use, cylinders should be turned off.
• Never use an adapter to fill your gas cylinder with automotive LPG, it could be the wrong gas and the cylinder could overfill causing it to explode.
• Gas appliances should never be used indoors unless it is specifically designed to do so, this includes any enclosed space such as tents, caravan annexes. Gas appliances can produce Carbon Monoxide (CO) and inhaling CO for even a short time can cause loss of consciousness and death.
• Use your gas appliance as intended, follow manufacturer instructions and never use homemade appliances or connections.
• Inspect your appliance regularly, if in doubt consult a licensed gasfitter.
• Dispose of disposable canisters safely at a waste centre, your local council will be able to help with this.

Prevention is the best treatment

When it comes to gas products and safety, prevention is the best treatment. Add a spray bottle of soapy water to your camping kit and check for leaks every time you connect the appliance.

If you’re in doubt whether your product is safe or not, take it back to the place of purchase to get the supplier to check it out. Take the time to keep your appliance clean, and well maintained to minimise the risk of anything going wrong.

A very big thank you to Ben Greeneklee who, with over 20 years of experience in gas appliance manufacturing and testing, helped us with the technical accuracy of the information in this article.

The post The Ultimate Gas Cylinder Safety Guide appeared first on Snowys Blog.