135 years ago, visionaries dreamed of a ribbon of steel linking the north and south of the country. Called the Great Northern Railway, but later simply known as ‘The Ghan’, the first sod was turned at Port Augusta on the 18th of January, 1878.

Those visionaries wouldn’t have envisioned that the first passenger train undertaking the journey from Port Augusta to Darwin wouldn’t arrive until the 4th of February, 2004 – 126 years after construction began. I guess you can’t rush these things!

For the adventurous traveller interested in a very significant part of our history, the section of this railway between Port Augusta and Alice Springs provides a brilliant insight into the hardships and magnificent achievements associated with this engineering masterpiece.

A significant length of the railway runs alongside another great Australian icon, the Oodnadatta Track. Even though this track does not officially start until Marree, the Old Ghan began its often arduous journey from Port Augusta.

Conditions of the Track

Luckily for the modern day traveller, this trip is pretty easy going for anyone with a 4WD or SUV, with the dirt section of the track north of Lyndhurst being well maintained.

The only exception to this is with the advent of rain when the track can become quickly impassable and is closed by the road authorities to prevent damage.

Caravans set up for dirt road travel should not have too much trouble, although corrugations can be rugged at times. Camper trailers are a common sight along the track.

Once you reach Oodnadatta there are several options if you wish to continue on to Alice Springs, however, to follow the Old Ghan route requires high-clearance, dual-range 4WDs. Fortunately, there are other options.

Travelling the Oodnadatta Track is a surprisingly accessible adventure and this extensive blog will provide you with the information to confidently give it a go – it’s your one-stop shop for a successful trip!

Significance in Australian History

This trek can immerse you in some of the most significant aspects of Australian history. The rich indigenous culture can be discovered, particularly in Port Augusta, Marree, and Oodnadatta. The ochre pits just north of Lyndhurst are a graphic reminder of the aboriginal trade routes that crisscrossed this area and the importance of these coloured soils in aboriginal culture. This is the area covered by John McDouall Stuart on his famous attempt to cross the continent from South to North, and return successfully.

It is along this route that the groundbreaking Overland Telegraph Line was established, with some of the telegraph stations still standing and accessible. The Old Ghan railway line is now largely gone but the embankment and regular station and siding ruins will be a constant reminder of the enormous feat of engineering involved in making this connection to Alice Springs.

One can only wonder why it took another 100 years for the connection between Alice Springs and Darwin to be made. You don’t have to be a history buff to appreciate the incredible achievements of the indigenous and European peoples who settled in these areas.

What Will You See?

From the top of Spencer Gulf to the northern section of the Flinders Ranges, a few days can easily be spent exploring museums, rail heritage, and some magnificent natural beauty. Port Augusta is a major centre and the last opportunity to stock up on provisions at the major supermarkets and variety stores in town.

This town is also a major rail hub servicing the passenger and freight services north to Alice Springs and Darwin, west of Perth and east to Sydney. The enormous coal trains from Leigh Creek pull in daily to the major power station that provides much of the power for South Australia.

Once past Hawker, the magnificent Flinders Ranges rise to the east and flat desert country disappears to the horizon in the west – what a contrast. The old Ghan Railway runs right along this section, crossing the road in a couple of places.

The ruins of station buildings and sidings are quite obvious and worth a poke around. The famous Prairie Hotel at Parachilna beckons, especially if you can time your visit around a meal break. You won’t be hungry after a meal at an FMG (Feral Mixed Grill).

Copley also has a good pub and excellent caravan park. Grab a quondong pie from the bakery – delicious! Just a little further you come across Lyndhurst, and it’s time to say goodbye to bitumen.

The Towns

Port Augusta

• Wadlata Visitor Centre and Museum

A wealth of information can be found here, together with an excellent display of outback heritage and indigenous culture that will set the scene for your upcoming adventure.

• Arid Lands Botanic Gardens

Stroll through the garden and learn about the flora that you will encounter on your trip. You’ll gain an understanding of how these plants survive in such a harsh environment.

• Port Augusta Railway Station

All trains, both passenger and freight, pass through the station – great for trainspotters. For a ride on what is left of the old Ghan line, hop on a historic Pichi Richi train that leaves from here on some weekends. See here for details.

• Gladstone Square

The Historic heart of the town is now a beautiful park flanked by the old courthouse and surrounded by the CBD. This is a significant area for the local indigenous community with an interpretive pathway detailing indigenous involvement in the area.

Quorn

Quorn was a major siding on the original Ghan Railway and is now home to the Pichi Richi Railway that uses lovingly restored engines and rolling stock that once travelled these lines to take passengers on a trip into yesteryear. Again, see here for details and timetables.

Around the town are some great old buildings that hark back to the days of steam trains and a bustling rail centre. Take a walk around, you won’t be disappointed.

Hawker

Another station on the old Ghan railway, Hawker boasts a well-restored railway station that is now a restaurant and gallery. Hawker is also the gateway to the Flinders Ranges with Wilpena Pound, the heart of the Flinders, only 55km away.

Parachilna

Even if you don’t arrive here at meal time, pop in and have a look at the Prairie Hotel. There is usually some magnificent artwork on display and a coffee, cool drink, or ice-cream may well tempt you.

The Prairie is famous for its menu of feral food – so give a go to a camel burger, kangaroo steak, or perhaps a goat pie! Keep an eye out for the massive coal trains that go past twice daily.

Leigh Creek

This town was built solely to support the workers at the nearby Leigh Creek Coalfields. There are a few shops, petrol station, tavern and a caravan park, but not much else.

Copley

A stop on the old Ghan Railway that also supported the early days of the coalfields, this town is a little gem, particularly if you are looking for a place to stay overnight. The caravan park is excellent, with cabin, caravan, and camping sites, and the owners are extremely hospitable. In the cooler months, an evening campfire is provided where you can sit around, chat, and meet fellow travellers.

The park also operates the bakery, where some delicious delights are to be had. The pub is just down the street and a small store can provide basic provisions. Fuel and mechanical assistance is also available.

Lyndhurst

The last stop on the bitumen, Lyndhurst is also the turning off point for those travelling the Strezlecki Track. This is a tiny settlement with a few houses, roadhouse, and a pub. For something a bit different, travel about a kilometre up the Strezlecki Track to see Talc Alf.

You will be amazed at the carvings he does in zebra stone, and you may even become caught up in quite the conversation about the ways of the world!

Accommodation

Port Augusta

All forms of accommodation, including a fairly fancy motel!

Quorn

Several hotels and motels and a good caravan park with cabins.

Hawker

A hotel with motel rooms and two caravan parks.

Merna Mora Station

Camping and cabin accommodation.

Parachilna

The Prairie Hotel has accommodation ranging from camping to cabins, hotel rooms – and a very fancy, partly submerged, rammed earth hotel wing if you want to do it in style!

Leigh Creek

A basic caravan park and motel.

Copley

An excellent caravan park with camping, caravan sites and cabins.

Lyndhurst

Lyndhurst Hotel offers hotel rooms, converted rail carriages, camping, and a caravan park.

Side Trips

The most significant side trip in this section is to the Flinders Ranges. The road to Wilpena and Blinman starts at Hawker and takes you through the heart of the Flinders and some of the most spectacular scenery the area has to offer. To get a really good feel for the area, take the road to Wilpena and then go through Brachina Gorge to meet the next section of this trek 70km north of Hawker. Allow at least several hours to enjoy this 110km detour.

Another alternative is to continue past Wilpena to Blinman and then travel through the Parachilna Gorge to re-join the main trek at Parachilna, 90km north of Hawker. This 153km detour provides magnificent scenery and a chance to look around the old copper mining town of Blinman and, if the time is right, enjoy a ‘Big Blinman Burger’ at the Blinman Pub.

Merna Mora Station has some 4WD tracks through their property, one of which will take you to Lake Torrens. There is a fee to travel these tracks, but 4WD enthusiasts may find this well worthwhile.

Just 12km north of Copley, turn east for a couple of kilometres and visit the Leigh Creek Coalfields lookout. The kids will thank you!

(UPDATE: As of September 2014 this lookout is no longer accessible.)

Along The Way

Pichi Richi Pass

The drive between Port Augusta and Quorn winds through the picturesque Pichi Richi Pass, with the old Ghan railway line your regular companion. If lucky, you may see the steam train that takes passengers between Port Augusta and Quorn.

Warren Gorge

About 10km out of Quorn, this beautiful gorge provides a nice camp spot or a beautiful picnic spot.

Gordon and Wilson

Two of the old Ghan railway sidings are just on the roadside between Quorn and Hawker and have significant ruins that are worth having a poke around.

Kanyaka Ruins

Take the signposted turnoff 32km south of Hawker to the well-preserved remains of a major sheep station.

Aboriginal Paintings

Look out for the sign and turn off about 10km south of Hawker. This will lead to a parking area and walking trail to the cave paintings. The last part of the trail is steep. Allow at least a couple of hours.

Old Ghan Railway Sidings

The old rail line runs adjacent to the road in most of this section. Look out for the ruins at Hookina, Edeowie, Brachina, Commodore and Nilpena.

It is worth getting out and wandering around at least a couple of these to marvel at the conditions of the time and also some of the beautiful stonework involved in the buildings and bridges.

Beltana

This is now basically a ghost town with only a few hardy souls enjoying the isolated life. Once a bustling mining and rail town, many of the buildings are intact and good signage explains the history. Turn off the main road 20km north of Parachilna for the 17km of dirt road into Beltana.

From there you can take the 10km road out past the Beltana Roadhouse or continue north along the 17km road through Puttapa Gap following the Old Ghan–far more picturesque.

Distances and Services

N.B.: there is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst.

Download the Oodnadatta Track Distances and Services PDF

Maps

• Hema Maps Great Desert Treks – South East
• Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback

Lyndhurst to William Creek (284km)

What Will You See?

The sealed road is now behind you and for some, the real adventure begins. Moving into the heart of the South Australian outback, there is no shortage of things to see along the way, and there are some terrific places to stay overnight.

Both aboriginal and rail history feature in this section and you are now travelling along the path of the famous explorer John McDouall Stuart who, in 1862, made the first successful South to North and return crossing of our continent.

The route he pioneered was later used for the construction of the Overland Telegraph Line in 1872 and inspired the start of the construction of a south to north railway in 1878. He and his team have left a great legacy to Australia and the Stuart Highway is named after him.

During this section of the trip, you will see evidence of both of these engineering masterpieces. After arriving in Marree our trek takes us west along the Oodnadatta Track, however, Marree is also the gateway to the Birdsville Track and Lake Eyre.

Track Condition and Hazards

Generally, this section of track is in pretty good condition – but expect some stony and corrugated sections. Keep your eye out for kangaroos, emus, and wandering stock, and watch out for wedge-tailed eagles soaring above looking for their next feed.

Eagles feasting on road-kill can be a real hazard as they are reluctant to leave a feed and are slow to take off when a vehicle approaches. Slow down and sound your horn to avoid a collision.

Always travel with lights on to ensure maximum visibility. Dust often hangs and drivers often travel on the wrong side of the track to avoid hazards.

The Towns

Farina

Just 24km north of Lyndhurst the turn-off to Farina appears. Apart from the owners and staff of the nearby Farina Station, no one lives in this town. However, do not miss out on spending some time here and, if possible, stay overnight at the campground.

This town is a testament to what can be achieved when a group of civic-minded people get together to ensure an important part of our history does not just disintegrate into the desert.

You can easily spend a couple of nights here and use the day to explore the town – it is like a walk back in time.

Marree

Once a major railhead for moving stock from the surrounding sheep and cattle stations, Marree is now home to an aboriginal community and the descendants of the Afghan cameleers who moved freight around large areas of the outback.

Being the start of perhaps Australia’s most famous outback stock route, the Birdsville Track, the town is now well visited by tourists wanting to travel this route, undertake the trek to Oodnadatta or visit the shores of Lake Eyre.

A few of the old Ghan diesel locomotives can be seen in the town centre and the old Afghan mosque is just opposite the roadhouse.

Coward Springs

Not really a town, this campground situated 114km from Marree is a pretty good place to stop overnight. Established around one of the Old Ghan Rail sidings, with a couple of the original buildings being restored, this is a good place to get a good feel for the history of the area.

A museum in one of the restored buildings is well worth a look. There is even a natural artesian “hot tub” where you can soak away any aches and pains.

William Creek

Originally another rail siding, William Creek now houses a well-known pub, campground, airfield and not much else. The pub is certainly the centre of activity and a drink at the bar or meal in the dining room is something to be remembered.

Across the road from the pub is a collection of rail artefacts and space junk as this area is well within the Woomera Rocket Range.

Accommodation

Farina has a beaut campground with very reasonable fees and provides flushing toilets and a hot shower (if you light the ‘donkey‘). There is plenty of room and campfires are allowed with wood available from the nearby station.

Marree provides a good range of accommodation with caravan parks and a hotel providing everything from camping to well-appointed cabins.

Coward Springs has a well-established campground with good toilets, hot wood-fired showers, and spacious sites. Campfires are allowed and most sites have fire pits. This campground is not open in the summer months.

William Creek provides hotel and motel rooms at the pub and cabin, caravan, and camping sites at the caravan park.

Side Trips

A few kilometres past Marree is a turnoff heading north-west to Muloorina and Lake Eyre. This is a great side trip if you have the time. A reasonable dirt track will take you the 54km to Muloorina Station. Here you will find a top little campground right on the edge of a permanent waterhole.

A further 45km along a sandy track will see you arrive at Madigan Gulf on the southern shore of Lake Eyre. A vista of shimmering salt extends to the horizon. You are only seeing a tiny fraction of this massive lake. This is the site of Donald Campbell’s famous attempts at the world land speed record.

On rare occasions after several years of heavy rain in outback Queensland, you may be lucky to see water in the lake. When the lake is full it becomes a mecca for birds and tourists alike.

Another opportunity to see Lake Eyre can be found 7km south of William Creek. Here you will find the 64km track to Halligan Bay on the western shores of Lake Eyre. This is a most desolate area and the track can be quite rough, so don’t venture here unless well prepared and self-reliant.

Along The Way

The Ochre Pits

Your first stop is just 5km north of Lyndhurst. A short diversion to the west will see you overlooking the stark red, yellow and white colours of the ochre that has been of great value to aboriginal peoples for millennia. Detailed signs explain the significance of this area. It is interesting that this deposit is still used today to provide ochre needed for ceremonial purposes. Please respect this area by not venturing into the pits.

Farina

Even if you are unable to stay overnight at the campground, don’t miss the opportunity to take the short track into the old Farina township. This is only 24km north of Lyndhurst. It’s an area where you can spend at least an hour wandering around.

John McDouall Stuart Memorial

Not long before arriving at Marree, what appears to be a large cross will appear on the horizon. This is located just to the east of the road. Pull in and have a look at this memorial to John McDouall Stuart. He travelled this route on his epic trek to travel from the south to the north of the continent.

Lake Eyre South

About 88km after leaving Marree you will see the shimmering white salt of Lake Eyre South. Pull in to the lookout and information shelter to get a feel for where you are – the lowest point in Australia. You are actually below sea level.

Old Ghan Rail Sidings

There are many sidings along this section but the ones particularly worth a stop are (distances are from Marree):

• Alberrie Creek (53km)

The home of some of the most bizarre sculptures you are likely to see. See it to believe it!

• Curdimurka (104km)

The site of the Curdimurka Outback Balls of the past. Follow the track along the line past the water softener tower to see a significant bridge over the creek, the second longest on the track.

• Coward Springs (130km)

Campground and museum

• Beresford (154km)

A large dam remains, built to provide water for steam trains.

Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs

Just a few kilometres before arriving at Coward Springs you come to the turn-off to the mound springs. Drive in a few kilometres to be amazed by The Bubbler and Blanches Cup, as water from the Great Artesian Basin bubbles to the surface.

Strangways Springs Ruins

Not long after passing Beresford siding (about 10km), a turnoff to the west will take you a few kilometres into the settlement of Strangways Springs. There is a sign at this intersection, so you shouldn’t miss it.

A very important part of the development of the Overland Telegraph Line, the ruins and the springs can easily occupy an hour or two wandering around and trying to imagine life here in the late 1800’s.

The area has plenty of information boards to provide a good feel for what it might have been like.

Ways Home From Here

Heading back south is the shortest, but not necessarily the quickest way home from here. Travelling 69km past Marree will find you at the intersection of the Oodnadatta Track and the Borefield Road.

This quite good dirt road will take you the 113km to Roxby Downs. From here it is sealed road all the way to Adelaide, passing through Woomera and Port Augusta.

Just 5km north of William Creek is a turnoff to the west. This 168km section of track leads to Coober Pedy on the Stuart Highway. From there sealed road will return you all the way to Adelaide.

Distances and Services

N.B.: There is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst. Download the Oodnadatta Track Distances and Services PDF here. 

Maps

• Hema Maps Great Desert Treks – South East
• Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback

William Creek to Oodnadatta (202km)… and Beyond!

What Will You See?

This section continues our shadowing of the route taken by John McDouall Stuart, the Overland Telegraph Line and the Old Ghan railway, at least until Oodnadatta. The track continues to be well maintained, with occasional corrugated sections and bulldust holes.

I’d recommend keeping those headlights on, reduce tyre pressures and take it easy on the speed. The Cooper Tires website has a very useful guide to appropriate tyre pressures in a range of terrains

The Towns

Oodnadatta

The namesake of this track is a reasonably well-sized town with a significant aboriginal community, government workers and business people making up the population. Among Oodnadatta’s claims to fame is as one of the hottest places in Australia – not somewhere suitable for tourists in the height of summer, but generally a delight in the cooler months. An excellent museum is housed in the old railway station and the famous Pink Roadhouse beckons for re-fuelling and an Oodnaburger and chips.

Accommodation

Algebuckina, 53km south of Oodnadatta, is the site of the most significant bridge on the Old Ghan Railway. There is good camping around the bridge area and to the east of the track along the Neales River.

Side Trips

111km north of William Creek is the 16km track to the east leading to the old Peake Telegraph Station on the original Overland Telegraph Line. There are significant remains well worth a look.

Along The Way

Old Ghan Rail Sidings

There are many sidings along this section but the ones particularly worth a stop are (distances are from William Creek):

– Edwards Creek (82km)

Look out for these ruins to the east of the track. Edwards Creek was once a major staging area on the old Ghan railway and housed a large number of rail and maintenance staff.

– Algebuckina (142km)

The old buildings are a little off to the west of the track, not long before crossing the Neales River and the Algebuckina bridge.

Old Peake Telegraph Station

111km north of William Creek is the turnoff west to the significant settlement that was the Peake Telegraph Station. This is a Public Access Route, meaning it passes through a pastoral property, so respect the track and surroundings and keep a good lookout for stock. It is important not to go near any stock watering points. The track can be rough, so a 4WD is recommended.

Algebuckina Bridge

Still the longest bridge in South Australia, this large structure took the Ghan rail line over the Neales River. At the southern end, you will see an old car wreck – said to be the result of a fool-hardy attempt to drive across the bridge when the river was in flood, only to be confronted by an oncoming train that duly bull-dozed it off the end of the bridge. On the northern end are several graves.

Ways Home From Here

A number of options are available for the traveller, depending on the time available, direction heading and type of vehicle.

If You’re Heading North…

The Oodnadatta Track continues on for 211km from Oodnadatta, meeting the Stuart Highway at Marla. From there the road is sealed all the way to Darwin. This is also a good way to go if seeing Uluru, Kata Tjuta, and Kings Canyon are on your wish list.

It is possible to continue your love affair with the Old Ghan, fairly closely following the original rail alignment through to Alice Springs. In fact, in sections, you actually drive on top of it. This option requires a well-equipped 4WD taking you through quite isolated areas.

There is over 500km of dirt track of variable condition, taking you through Hamilton Station, Finke, and Maryvale, with fuel available at Finke and Maryvale. For the really adventurous experience, take the 45km track west from Maryvale to the historic Chambers Pillar. There is a good campground at the pillar.

Again for the adventurous, take the track north through Hamilton Station and turn off west to Mount Dare 9km north of the Eringa ruins. From Mount Dare, head north on the Old Andado Track, passing the historic Old Andado Homestead and the Aboriginal community of Santa Teresa, eventually arriving in Alice Springs.

If You’re Heading West…

Oodnadatta also a major starting point for a trip across the Simpson Desert. Attempting this requires excellent preparation, a highly equipped 4WD and the ability to be completely self-sufficient (see the 3-part blog ‘Crossing The Simpson Desert‘).

If You’re Heading South…

Southwest of Oodnadatta is the 197km track to Coober Pedy on the Stuart Highway. This is a well-made dirt road and a good way to go if travelling back to Adelaide.

Distances and Services

From William Creek to Oodnadatta is only 202km, with no towns or services on this section of the track. There are numerous camping opportunities near old rail ruins and at creek crossings.

The Final Stretch: Other Considerations

Permits

No permits are required to travel or camp along any sections of the Oodnadatta Track.

Key Contacts

Outback Road Conditions:

Phone: 1300 361 033

Website: www.dtei.sa.gov.au and follow the links.

Marree Police Station

Phone: (08) 8675 8346

Oodnadatta Police Station

Phone: (08) 8670 7805

Coward Springs Campground

Phone: 08 8675 8336

William Creek Hotel

Phone: 08 8670 7880

Pink Roadhouse Oodnadatta

Phone: (08) 86 707 822

Check out our blog for tons of outback touring information, or go to our website and set yourself up to tackle the Oodnadatta Track.

The post Tackling the Oodnadatta Track appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Be quick – plan this 4WD and camping adventure soon to see plenty of emus and other wildlife. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

From an off-road adventure to chill-axing in one of Australia’s most spectacular bays

Grab your favourite outdoor buddies, pack the tent, and shift the fourby into 4 high (and low). The Sleaford to Wanna Track is calling. Then, after you’ve explored this spectacular coastal jewel, prepare for an unforgettable stay at Memory Cove.

You won’t want to stop the 4WD action, but it’s hard not to for this view. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Now – if you want to visit Memory Cove during peak times, you may need to plan and pre-book. Camping and day visitor access is restricted at Memory Cove. It’s so good that this little beauty is under lock and key to protect its stunning, natural wonder.

Read on to discover why you should add these South Australian treats to your 4WD and camping bucket list.

Ready for some sand action – don’t forget your sand flag and recovery boards. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Sleaford to Wanna 4WD Track: Epic Adventure and Iconic Vistas

This 4WD track features wind-swept coastal views, blindingly white beaches, and blue-grey heathland. Oh, and wildlife abounds, especially the marine varieties from the clifftop vantage points.

The track is under 20 kilometres, and yes, you could speed along and drive it in 2 to 3 hours. However, I suggest making a day of the track to fully immerse yourself. Plus, a day gives you ample time for extra 4WD dune driving to enjoy shifting into four-low. When you’ve wandered pristine beaches, stopped for photos (again!), munched some lunch, and enjoyed the lookouts – the day will be over.

Great lookout along the Sleaford to Wanna Track. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

You can start the track at, you guessed it, Wanna or Sleaford. You could even try both directions on separate days, as the different views and driving orientation will give a completely different experience.

Yes, the views are amazing – but what also makes this 4X4 track so fun is the terrain variety. You’ll traverse sand dunes one moment, then need to pick a suitable line over rocky challenges the next. Dropping your tyre pressures is crucial for both the sandy and rocky obstacles.

Now that sure is blue! Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

The track is constantly changing due to the sand movement. Red-topped marker posts provide directional guidance. But stay alert when following the posts, as dune movement can cause surprising challenges like drop-offs and soft sand blows. There are sections where you can choose to head inland or drop down to the beach.

Several areas present complete sand bowls, and you may find yourself looking for a camel or mirage. These areas are great for photos, and a hike up the dunes is a breathtaking challenge.  

The track changes regularly from sandy to rocky. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Keep a lookout for the dedicated sandboarding areas on the track map.

While the divine azure seas are captivating too, spend some time looking a little closer to shore from the many raised vantage points. At one limestone cliff, we jumped out to get a snap of the coastline – then spent the next half hour watching 5 sharks (yes, 5) casually cruising the coast.

Cue the ‘Jaws’ soundtrack – and this ‘Noah’s Ark’ brought 4 friends. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Memory Cove – a Magical Place You Won’t Want to Leave

Retina-burning white sand, patchwork blue waters, wildlife, and green space. Get ready to lose your breath and find yourself.

Memory Cove lives up to its name. My first camp here was 18 years ago. And Memory Cove is one of my top 10 campgrounds. Having travelled around Australia, that’s saying something!

Is this camping heaven? Memory Cove will leave its mark. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

There are 5 numbered campsites for single vehicles, with a couple of pit toilets. Caravans and fires are not allowed. Book online for camping or day entry (allowing a maximum of 15 4WDs a day). You collect and return a key to the Port Lincoln Visitor Centre, so be aware of their open hours.

Memory Cove would have to be one of the prettiest bays I’ve ever seen. Dense bush curtains both headlands, with grey and red boulders on each side. Then there’s that beach and blue, blue, blue water.

Only 5 campsites and 15 day visitor cars are allowed per day. Book early! Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

On our recent trip, two sea kayakers enjoyed a well-earned rest day off the water at the campground. We saw dolphins every day, and occasionally they playfully arced out of the water. Stingrays, sea eagles, and pelicans were regular visitors too.

Be sure to walk along the rocky trail to the point. Sit on one of the massive boulders and hopefully watch a resident sea lion frolicking in the crystal-clear water.

In a word – bliss. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Activities

• Wildlife watching – Emus, kangaroos, many birds and scores of marine life
• Whale watching (May to October)
• Sandboarding (see the park map)
• Fishing and boating. Be aware of Marine Sanctuary Zones and check state fishing regulations.
• Off-road touring
• Bushwalking
• Mountain biking on vehicle tracks but not on walking trails
• Stargazing
• Photography
• Swimming
• Snorkelling

You never know what you’ll find beachcombing. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Alternative Campgrounds

If you cannot secure a campsite at Memory Cove, don’t despair. Lincoln National Park features 14 different camp areas, and there’s bound to be one (or two, or three, or four) that you like. You must book all campsites on the Parks SA Book & Pay website.

Rocky coastline on the drive into Memory Cove. 4WD only, and no caravans. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Top Tips

• Book early for Memory Cove camping and day entry, especially during peak time.
• Check the Parks SA website for park-specific closures or warnings.
• Grab a sand flag for your lead vehicle.
• Carry recovery gear, especially recovery boards and suitable straps.
• Download the free Avenza Maps app (Android and Apple). Avenza uses your phone’s GPS and drops a marker to show where you are on the map. Search the Avenza Map store for these free maps:
  1. Lincoln National Park & Memory Cove Wildnerness Protection Area
  2. Memory Cove Wilderness Protection Area
  3. Lincoln National Park – Sleaford to Wanna
• Allow plenty of time when driving into Memory Cove. The track is not technically challenging, it’s just really… really… slow. The surface changes often; sand one moment, rock the next.
• Let your tyres down. There will be plenty of sand driving and gnarly, rocky sections. We usually drop ours down to 18 PSI and keep assessing track conditions.

Not all visitors come by road (well, 4WD track*)! Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Where, When, and How Much?

Location and Distance

Port Lincoln is 7 hours from Adelaide.

• Sleaford and Wanna are half an hour from Port Lincoln
• Allow at least 2 hours to travel from Port Lincoln to Memory Cove.

When to Visit

Summer offers the best beach experience. Late winter to spring is best for wildlife and native flora, while autumn is quieter and can bring stunning days.

Vehicle Entry Cost

$12.50 per vehicle (day visitors + once off for campers)

Camping Cost

$29.50 per vehicle per night

Explore the Memory Cove headlands; the journey back sure is pretty. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Contacts:

National Parks and Wildlife Service | Port Lincoln Office

Phone: (+618) 86883111

Email: DEWEPOnlineBookings@​sa.​gov.​au

Website bookings: parks.sa.gov.au/book-and-pay

Port Lincoln Visitor Information Centre

3 Adelaide Place, Port Lincoln

Phone: 1300788378

Email: info@visitportlincoln.net.au

Website: portlincoln.com.au/

Gnarly rocky coastline on the way to Memory Cove. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

So… “Wanna Sleaford” yourself?

Epic sand driving, coastal exploring, and pristine camping

Now’s the time to start planning that family getaway, boys’ trip, or SHE4WDers adventure. Get some sand between your toes (and muddies), and truly immerse yourself in the natural beauty and adventure of the Sleaford to Wanna Track and Memory Cove.

Out of this world blues along the Sleaford to Wanna Track. Image: Mark, Jayden, and Mariska Threadgold

Over to you – have you created memories at Memory Cove? Do you have a tale to tell about the Sleaford to Wanna Track? Let us know in the comments.

The post Sleaford to Wanna 4WD Track and Memory Cove – Sand’sational! appeared first on Snowys Blog.

A little birdy told me about a fabulous conservation reserve you’ve probably never heard of. So, tell me honestly – have you ever heard of Gluepot Reserve?

Nah, me neither, until recently.

This place is a hidden gem to explore. For extra feel-good points, you’re supporting their team of volunteers kicking conservation goals. Gluepot is 3.5 hours northeast of Adelaide, owned and run by Birdlife Australia. As a crow eater (umm, does that sound wrong for bird conservation?), I’ll admit this SA gem had slipped under my radar… and at 54,000ha, that’s a big blind spot.

But ‘secret spot’ no more! I recently explored this magical place, and now think its name should be ‘Super’ Gluepot Reserve. Now, I can tell the difference between a black cockatoo and a raven. That said, I’m the first to admit I don’t know the intricacies of a white-fronted versus a white-plumed honeyeater – and that’s OK. Yes, Gluepot is a birder’s paradise – but it’s also mighty fine for hikers, mountain bikers, campers, off-road tourers, and nature lovers.

‘Super’ Gluepot Reserve is ready to explore! Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Birdlife Australia

Did you know that Gluepot Reserve is Australia’s largest community-run conservation reserve? Hats off to these legends, because volunteers run the entire operation. Their goal is to protect and enhance our fragile environment. Thankfully too, they want to share this fabulous piece of mallee scrub with tourists.

Gluepot was marginal farming land at risk of being burned to make room for stock fodder. Fortunately, volunteers were aware of the site’s environmental significance and conducted extensive surveys. The property owner was willing to sell the Gluepot section, but Birdlife Australia needed to raise $360,000 for the purchase – plus ongoing funds for upkeep and maintenance. In 1997, they raised the money in just 10 weeks. Over 2,400 individuals and organisations donated the funds. Talk about people-power!

The primary focus is on conservation, research and education. At various times there will be a selection of students, researchers and specialised equipment on site.

Throughout the reserve, you will find signs of crucial environmental research and monitoring. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Activities

Bird, Flora, and Fauna Watching

Grab the binoculars and watch nature to your heart’s content. With Gluepot’s conservation emphasis, look for the many bird-hide watering stations and other monitoring sites.

Check out the numerous bird hides. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Hiding out in a bird hide. The best vantage point for some feathered action – and cool on a hot day. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Off-Road Touring

There are many well-signposted dirt tracks around the property. Planning a round trip to check out the features and activities is easy.

On the road out to Gluepot Reserve. The road is generally suitable for 2WD vehicles and medium-sized caravans – perhaps don’t bring your sports car. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Walks and Mountain Biking

There are 14 established trails for walking and mountain biking, from one kilometre long to 15! Excellent and informative paper guides are available from the visitor centre.

You can explore other park areas if you’re an experienced and well-prepared hiker. Due to the thick mallee scrub, it’s easy to get lost without trails or a compass/GPS. The northern end of the reserve has restricted access for research purposes.

Don’t forget the camera. Whether it’s wildlife or natural spaces, there’s plenty to photograph. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Research Courses, Art, and Camps

At various times throughout the year, there are special programmes and courses. Offerings include research activities, art classes, and even a campout for the youngsters.

Volunteering

They’d love more “Friends of Gluepot Reserve”, if you’re keen. Volunteers help as rangers, flora/fauna monitors, and feral animal and weed controllers. Construction and maintenance tasks performed by volunteers are greatly appreciated. Of course, a few dollars donated will help this fantastic project too.

Camping

Oooh – not one, not two, but three great campsites to choose from!

Babbler Campsite is the closest to the visitor centre and has 18 sites. Sitella hosts 17 camp spots located northwest of the central visitor centre.

We chose the furthest, Bellbird, to avoid the potential, long-weekend crush. There was no need to worry, because the 15 campsites were only half full.

We were super impressed with the campground. Clean, well set up, and most sites had space and greenery between them. Two drop toilets and a few tables/seats were available too.

Fabulous camping amongst the Mallee scrub. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Wildlife

OK, let’s start with the main stars.

Gluepot is home to over 190 different species of birds. That’s enough to get any birder into an excited flap. Gluepot helps protect 18 nationally threatened birds. The dense mallee shelters the threatened mallee fowls, red-lored whistlers, scarlet-chested parrots and black-eyed miners.

This cheeky Mulga parrot was happy checking out our campsite. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Gluepot’s furry (and spiky) residents include grey and red kangaroos, echidnas, and pygmy possums. Twelve different bats and 53 species of reptiles call Gluepot home.

Now, whilst we enjoyed seeing many of the small and large lizards, we did give a wide berth to a slithery snake during a walk.

Hide and Seek – lizard style (Eastern Mallee Dragon). Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Plenty of sand goannas call Gluepot Reserve home. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Gluepot rounds off its environmental preservation with over 260 species of plants.

It’s hard not to stop at this bright beauty. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

The Visitor Centre

Start at the visitor centre! It has fabulous displays and is the central hub for all the information, guides, and maps you’ll need. Here, it’s a self-service and honesty-based system. Grab a park map and fill out the camping/visit pass.

Make sure to check out the displays covering the reserve’s history, management, and unique inhabitants. Pick up a walk or drive brochure. The brochures provide directions and extra information about history, fauna, flora, or park management.

There are extensive lists and literature if you’re a birder or a leafer (OK, I just made that name up). Here, you can knock your feather and flora socks off. Oh, and check out the cute and colourful artwork out front. There’s clothing and other merchandise available too.

The visitor centre contains interesting displays and park information. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Top Tips

Contact Gluepot

Do so a few days before, to check if they expect large group bookings at any particular campsite. You can also check the track status. The name ‘Gluepot’ originates from the clay soil’s knack of sticking during rain (now that would be a funny phone call to work – ‘I’m not coming in today because I’m stuck in a gluepot’).

Be sure to do the Old Gluepot Heritage Walk

It’s great to discover the history of the original station. You can even walk into the underground room and experience the temperature drop, first-hand.

Experience the temperature drop as you descend into the old underground room on the Old Gluepot Heritage Walk. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Be prepared for insects!

The flies were friendly, but the mozzies were nasty. Nothing a fly net, repellant, and coils couldn’t fix though.

It’s Mallee country, so it can be hot and sunny

Slap on a hat, slop on that sunscreen, and stay hydrated.

Water is essential in this dry landscape. The water points are popular with all sorts of birds, including brown-headed honeyeaters. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

Where, When, and How Much?

Gluepot is 3.5 hours north-east of Adelaide. It’s 64 kilometres from Waikerie in the Riverland. The final 50 kilometres are dirt roads generally suitable for 2WD vehicles and mid-size caravans. The tracks and park may close when rainfall exceeds 15mm.

The ideal times to visit are from Autumn through to Spring.

Day Visitor: $5.00 per vehicle

Camping: $15.00 per vehicle

Contacts:

Ph: (08) 8892 8600

E: gluepot@gluepot.org

Web: https://www.gluepot.org/

Get ready for red sands, grey-green foliage and blue skies. Credit: Mariska and Mark Threadgold

So now you know the secret…

Gluepot Reserve is super!

We were delightfully surprised and impressed by our trip to Gluepot Reserve. Yes, we were also a tad embarrassed that we never knew this Mallee gem existed in our own backyard.

Do yourself a favour and add Gluepot to your bucket list. Tell them a lil’ birdy sent you.

Tell us, what’s your favourite surprising or secret travel experience? Let us know in the comments!

The post Gluepot Reserve: A Hidden Gem appeared first on Snowys Blog.

What looks like the aftermath of a massive asteroid hitting the Flinders Ranges is actually a 500-plus million-year-old ruin of an ancient mountain range. Shaped like a Pringle, there are a plethora of walks and trails that skirt the rim, go up to the edge, and even tickle the middle – all accessed from various points within the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

Being bowl-shaped… have you ever wondered why there’s no lake or billabong in the middle? All the water that lands inside – where does it all go? Well, friends – it flows right through the middle and out, in a North-West/South-East running gorge.

Edeowie Gorge.

Appreciating the tight squeeze…

Evolving from years of monsoonal downpours dropping their load over the Pound, Edeowie Gorge is the hidden gem of the Flinders Ranges. Towering, 100-metre high cliffs, waterfalls with 50 metre-plus drops, and flood debris piled up to 10 metres in the trees – this gorge, if it were ever in full-flood, would make the River Torrens in downtown Adelaide look like a stream. You may not have heard of it because it’s so epic to traverse. It’s a serious day’s walk, but well worth it.

Malloga Falls Track

The Malloga Falls track (21 kilometres return) that departs from the Visitor Centre at Ikara-Flinders Ranges takes you into the Pound for 8 flat-ish kilometres first. The trail then turns to a sandy singletrack, before dropping into the early headwaters of the Gorge. Even this part is pretty cool, and probably satisfies most day walkers. Watch your step on the boulders, or frolic along them – your choice, but any rolled ankles here could spell disaster, as it’s not an easy extraction point for emergency services.

The Malloga Falls track takes you into the Pound for 8 flat-ish kilometres.

The Malloga Falls track takes you into the Pound for 8 flat-ish kilometres.

The trail turns to a singletrack just after the junction.

The bottom of Malloga Falls

After reaching Malloga Falls, most day walkers will turn around and head for home, achieving a solid 4-5 hours of walking. Choosing to continue means appreciating your inner Indiana Jones, and going deep into the heart of the Pound.

Glenora Falls

As you wander down the Gorge, the walls start to get higher and your choice of escape becomes limited. At about the 13.5-kilometre mark, you’ll meet your next waterfall: Glenora Falls. There’s an exposed traverse to negotiate here where if you fall, you will die. Trying to imagine this waterfall in full flood is a belittling experience, and one not to dwell on too much while you tiptoe around. The deeper you go into the Gorge the quieter it becomes, with the wind keeping out (unless it’s a Nor’wester, and funnelling along).

The bottom of Glenora Falls

…The bottom of the top!

Surrounded by rock at the top of Glenora Falls!

Kanalla Falls

Only one or two kilometres down the Gorge, Kanalla Falls appears – and this one has even more of a doozy obstacle to negotiate. Option A is another traverse, and Option B is a tricky downclimb following painted arrows.

Who comes this far with a little paintbrush?

My guess is it would either be the Park Rangers from many years ago, or the owners of Edeowie Station where, almost mysteriously, the Gorge trickles out into obscurity. One minute you’ve got cliffs and hillsides hundreds of metres high, and the next you’re out in a floodplain that looks like nothing special.

Looking down at the sketchy traverse of Kanalla Falls!

The Kanalla Falls traverse

The spring at the bottom of Kanalla Falls

The tricky climb up Kanalla Falls!

Looking back along the traverse…

If you squint, you’ll spot me tackling the traverse!

The top of Kanalla Falls

The Beauty of Edeowie Gorge

The Gorge’s disappearing act is like a superhero vanishing when you no longer require their presence. Where a Superhero saves you from impending doom, Edeowie Gorge provides you with either an exhilarating day’s walk to improve your fitness, or a greater appreciation of the Flinders Ranges’ geological make-up. Maybe too, an acknowledgement of the power of water and its effect on the landscape, or even just the experience of several hours of walking through jaw-dropping scenery, without any distractions to allow for mental clarity.

Whatever it is, a day trip along a section of Edeowie Gorge is an awesome experience, and one to add to the bucket list of things to do in the Flinders Ranges.

The view from the top!

So many cliffs!

Occassional cairns indicate the better paths through the gorge

Logistics

1. One entry point is off the Malloga Falls Track in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, where a park pass is required for entry. Otherwise, you can contact Edeowie Station and pay a small fee for a day-visit to access the Gorge from the bottom end.
2. Glenora Falls and Kanalla Falls are not for the faint-hearted! Bushwalking instructors use ropes to protect students as they walk through. Know your own limitations, and do not commit to traveling through the Gorge if you are not familiar with low-grade rock climbing. For those who want the full experience of the Gorge, but lack the skills to negotiate the waterfalls, you are welcome to get in contact with me and we can work out a plan of attack! Attempting the full length of the Gorge without someone who has been there before is a recipe for disaster.
3. The walk will take the best part of a day (17 kilometres long, one way) and there are a few ways to arrive back where you started.
   • Organise a car shuttle or exchange with mates (i.e. leave one car at either end), or find some friendly campers at Wilpena willing to pick you up in a form of ‘pre-arranged hitchhiking’. This is only suitable if you are committed to completing the whole 17 kilometres of the Gorge.
   • Pack a trail-running vest with supplies for the day, and run the flat sections to save time. This should allow you to complete the Gorge, turn around, and make it back to wherever you started your day (34 kilometres return).
   • Bring overnight camping gear, and stay at either end (Edeowie Station or the National Park, where extra fees apply)

I can’t stress enough that this walk is not easy! However, it is a destination I think is worth visiting and sharing with others – hence this blog! This is my attempt to spread the word on how good the Flinders Ranges really are.

To save time, pack a trail-running vest with supplies and run the flat sections.

The cliffs in Edeowie Gorge really tower over you!

My Run

A GPS overview

What’s the most challenging trek, hike, or bushwalk you’ve ever traversed?

The post Exploring Edeowie Gorge appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The funny thing about trips is if you really want to go, you’ll go.

For a year or two, I’d been meaning to get back to the Eyre Peninsula, and possibly the Head of Bight, to see the whales… but as usual, had plenty of excuses.

First, it was COVID restrictions… then work, then COVID restrictions again, then something or other, then the price of fuel… then I went. That’s the funny thing about trips: if you really want to go, you’ll make time, find a way, and just go.

That’s what I did.

Wildlife ahead!

I loaded up the car and my little cubby house on wheels (as I call my little 10-foot Eagle off-road hybrid van), grabbed all my favourite Snowys bits and pieces (plus a few new ones), and just took off. In fact, I took off in such a hurry that I left my front door wide open (which I didn’t find out about until I arrived home two weeks later. Turns out I live in quite an honest suburb)!

The first stop was to see the Silo Art in Snowtown, before my mandatory ‘bird nerd’ stop at Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta, then onto Whyalla to catch the tail end of the giant cuttlefish migration. I’ve been a few times, and it’s always great – even if my pics weren’t, this time around.

Silo Art in Snowtown

Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Port Augusta

An Australian Kestrel: Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Port Augusta

A crow eating a mouse: Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Port Augusta

After a little overnighter on the cliff at Point Lowly, I braved the cold and hit the water at sunrise for a bit of a splash. I was actually a bit late in the season this time (June or July is best), so there weren’t as many as usual – but the Cuttlefish were amazing. I saw a giant ray (which snuck up from behind and scared the bejeezus out of me) and lots of fish, so it was definitely worth the stopover.

Point Lowly

A giant ray snuck up from behind and scared the bejeezus out of me!

So many Cuttlefish!

The Cuttlefish were amazing!

The Cuttlefish were amazing!

I then jumped onto the new glass-bottom boat they have out there, to see what that was like. I’m happy to report it’s not only a lot drier and warmer, but an excellent alternative for people who want to see the giant cuttlefish without having to squeeze into a wetty and brave the cold. Plus, we saw dolphins – which is always a nice bonus!

Cuttys Glass Bottom Boat Tours

Cuttys Glass Bottom Boat Tours

My plan from here was to spend a few days driving along the coast to Fowlers Bay for a whale-watching tour with EP Cruises… but when Captain Rod called to give me the heads up about how prime the incoming whale-watching weather would be if I made it there in time, my leisurely drive turned into a mad long-distance dash!

This was also my first time giving my new GME UHF Radio a proper go, instead of just eavesdropping on the local urban truckers. I’d been told it could come in handy when wanting to overtake some of the longer trucks on the highway (some of those trucks are REALLY long) and I’m happy to confirm that, while I only used it a couple of times, it was super useful. Not gonna lie, I also find listening in to the truckers quite entertaining… so, pretty happy with that recent purchase.

The first afternoon in Fowlers with EP Cruises was bloody brilliant. Lots and lots of whales, lots of fin and tail slapping… it was everything I’d hoped it would be. When a bit of drizzle rolled through, out came the Sea to Summit dry sack to keep my camera equipment nice and dry. That bag has saved my bacon so many times, it’s not even funny.

…By ‘bacon’ I mean ‘cameras’. I don’t actually take bacon with me. 

EP Cruises – Fowlers Bay Whale Tours

The first afternoon in Fowlers with EP Cruises was brilliant.

…Lots of fin and tail slapping!

Lots and lots of whales!

My experience with EP Cruises was everything I’d hoped it would be.

As good as that afternoon was, I decided to go out again the next day. I was so lucky I did, because right at the start of the tour we saw a sunfish! I didn’t even know we had these in SA, and seeing one of these weirdo fish was bucket-list stuff for me. The weather that second day was even better than the first, with lots of whale action including a baby white whale breaching.

After two days of whales, you’d think I’d be all whaled out…but no, I decided I’d go a few more hours onto the Nullarbor and hit the Head of Bight. I fluked a small window of good weather to see even more whales at what is Australia’s biggest whale nursery. As good as the boat tours were, seeing the whales from a higher perspective was definitely worth the extra hours of driving… and the extra five million dollars of fuel (diesel is not cheap out that way)!

Head of Bight

After two days of whales, you’d think I’d be all whaled out…

Seeing the whales from a higher perspective was definitely worth it.

Even more whales at Australia’s biggest whale nursery.

With the ‘whale’ box well and truly ticked, I spent a few days coming back down the coast, stopping at Venus Bay, Streaky Bay, and others – as well as Talia Caves, the cliff sculptures at Elliston, and the nice, full Lake Gilles. I even stopped at the Big Galah in Kimba to do my regular spot on ABC radio and, of course, spent time looking for birds. This involved another stop at Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta, where I was lucky enough to spot my first ever Barn Owl and get a decent shot of a bird I’ve been trying to for ages: the White Winged Fairy Wren! 

I spent a few days coming back down the coast.

With the ‘whale’ box ticked, I stopped at many bays as well as Talia Caves.

Talia Caves

Elliston Coastline

Elliston Coastline

Lake Gilles

A Barn Owl: Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Port Augusta

A White-Winged Fairy Wren: Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, Port Augusta

Bird watching in Lake Gilles

Bird watching in Lake Gilles

From there, I ducked across to Melrose to run the ‘short’ 15-kilometre course at the Melrose Running Festival. This runs up and down Mount Remarkable (where I think a Snowys-sponsored runner won the 50km long course in a ridiculously fast time), and smashed a post-race pizza at the new Jack Brothers Brewery. The next day, I headed for home.

Running the ‘short’ 15-kilometre course at the Melrose Running Festival!

After smashing a post-race pizza, I headed for home the next day.

Gear that made my trip easier and more comfortable includes:

1. My Coleman sleeping bag: it’s nice and big so I don’t feel like I’m in a straitjacket, and it kept me toasty warm in the van on some VERY cold mornings. 
2. My little Coleman table: it might be basic, but it makes a great dinner table or office desk.  
3. My new Dometic Fridge: this was my first longer trip with it and, while I had to MacGyver the fridge hutch to fit it in, oh my – it was so, so good. It was great to be able to take extra food and drinks with me! 
4. After lots of research on power consumption, I also went for a little pop-up kettle – perfect for boiling water for my pot noodles! There was a really comprehensive review about power consumption on the Snowys website that made my decision much easier. Snowys’ customers really are the best when they share their knowledge like that. Thanks, Rodos from Castle Hill – whoever you are! 
5. I’m not exactly a gourmet cook, so my little Sea to Summit Camp Set was great too! Perfect for my Weetbix in the morning, and whatever else I might eat later in the day. 
6. Even though my little van has a decent solar and battery set-up, my Companion Power Station still comes in handy when I’m trying to manage power consumption – even if it’s just to top up my phone or iPad when I’m watching embarrassingly bad TV shows at night. But seriously, how good is Seal’s Team? (I had the 70Ah version, but this is the 100Ah).
7. Finally – at the risk of the ol’ TMI (Too Much Information) – after much anxiety and putting off using it for as long as I could, I’m happy to report that my Thetford dunny performed admirably. I picked up all my chemicals and the special bog roll before I left, and was pleasantly surprised at how easy the whole process was. Can I just say (please, please, please), when you go camping somewhere without facilities – have a plan for what you’re going to do at toilet time. The amount of toilet paper and associated ‘stuff’ I see out there is just gross and sad. Please be awesome, and not one of those people.  

When you camp somewhere without facilities – have a plan for toilet time!

Have you ever been whale watching?

The post Whale Watching on the Eyre Peninsula appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The Flinders Ranges Bike Loop passes through Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, Rawnsley Park Station, Willow Springs Station, and Gum Creek Station. Traditional lands to the Adnyamathanha people, adventurers are prohibited from doing this trail solo due to the isolation – and associated dangers – of this remote area. You can cycle in a group of three, although I think the best way to enjoy the Flinders Ranges By Bike (FRBB) is to join a group tour.

It’s thumbs-up from me with Rawnsley Bluff in the background.

The trail includes a mixture of fire trails, station tracks, single trails, occasional public dirt roads, and a short distance on the bitumen. The natural terrain alternates between smooth pedalling, rugged efforts, technical descending, heart-raising climbing, and challenging creek crossings.

The adventure incorporates points of interest that include Wilpena Pound, Brachina Gorge, Rawnsley Bluff, Pugilist Hill Lookout, Skull Rock, Guide Hut, Appealinna Ruins, Bunyeroo Valley, Sacred Canyon, and many more.

The view towards Wilpena Pound from Pugilist Hill.

I opted to experience the FRBB with a local SA business, Escapegoat Adventures. They offer guided and supported 6-day trips for a minimum of four people (and a max of ten).

Escapegoat includes:

• Return transport to the Flinders Ranges from Adelaide, including transporting bikes and equipment
• The organisation of Outback accommodation in the Willow Springs Shearers Quarters
• All meals, except lunch on the first and last day, and dinner on the final evening (which is at the pub!)
• A qualified mountain bike guide for the duration of the FRBB, as well as the final day ride in the iconic mountain biking town of Melrose
• Vehicle support and transfers to and from the FRBB each day

What’s not included:

• Mountain bike – bike hire including hardtails, dual suspension bikes, and e-bikes is available
• Helmet, riding equipment (eg. hydration pack), bike spares – more advice on this below
• Travel arrangements to and from Adelaide pickup/drop off point
• Insurance – more advice on this below
• Bike repairs, spare parts etc
• Any alcohol or drinks – a limited amount of wine is supplied with dinner
• Extra snacks and/or energy bars for riding
• Personal spending money

The Escapegoat van and bike trailer was our transport and transfer vehicle.

Riding Proficiency

Anyone considering the Flinders Ranges By Bike loop is encouraged to have intermediate-level mountain biking experience. The Flinders Ranges is a pretty unforgiving landscape regardless of how you choose to explore – on foot, by car, or by bike. The FRBB trail involves numerous technical sections with loose rock, rutted trails, and creek crossings. Naturally, your skills will develop throughout the journey and there is plenty of time to take each obstacle at your own pace.

What you can’t catch up on once you begin the FRBB is your level of physical bike fitness. Your preparation and training should involve more than just turning the legs over, but also becoming accustomed to riding on natural undulating trails, for extended distances, for multiple days. This ensures that your butt, joints and muscle groups are all ready to handle whatever the Outback terrain throws at you!

Some of the terrain is pretty technical, so you should do some preparation and training before tackling the trail.

Bikes & Equipment

You’ll need a reliable mountain bike that is set up for the adventure, and is well maintained. Whether riding your own bike, or borrowing/hiring one, have the bike serviced prior to leaving home and ensure everything is in good working order.

The type of bike you use – hardtail, dual suspension, or e-bike – and how you set it up, will very much depend on personal preference.

I rode my own, which is a Specialized Stumpjumper 27.5 dual suspension trail bike. I knowingly sacrificed a bit on the geometry efficiency, and ran 2.6 inch wide grippy tyres to get as much rigidity, purchase, and protection on the terrain as I could.

My Specialized Stumpjumper 27.5 mountain bike.

Our guide carried some basics – multi-tool, pump etc. as well as spares and emergency equipment – first aid kit, UHF radios, PLB etc.

It is your responsibility to carry spare tubes, brake pads, and any other gear specifically for your bike, such as spares, tools, and parts.

Items I supplied and carried:

• Hydration bladder
• Water bottle
• GPS watch
• Map – Day 1 in Green, Day 2 in Red, Day 3 in Blue, and Day 4 in Yellow (Source: FRBB)
• Helmet
• Gloves
• UHF radio
• Spare tube
• Pump
• Other miscellaneous bike spare bits and pieces
• Multi-tool
• First aid kit
• Sunscreen
• Chafing cream
• Spray jacket
• GoPro
• Lunch and snacks

My personal collection of spare gear.

Day 1 – Travel from Adelaide to the Flinders Ranges

After pickups across Adelaide, we headed north out of the city in the Escapegoat van. Our first stop was at the infamous Stone Hut Bakery, along the Horrocks Highway, known for their special ‘outback’ pies.

Passing through the iconic towns of Quorn and Hawker, we arrived at Willow Springs Station by mid-afternoon. The station Shearer’s Quarters was our ‘base camp’ for the week, and the remainder of the afternoon was dedicated to getting our bikes all set up and checked, along with organising our gear for the coming days.

The famous pies from Stone Hut Bakery!

Day 2 – Rawnsley Park Station to Wilpena, and then to Willow Springs Station – 55km

Escapegoat reworks the FRBB sections to equalise each day of riding to approximately 50km. So, as part of the effort to keep to the day’s quota, we were shuttled in the early morning chill from our base camp, to Rawnsley Park Station, where we began the day’s ride. Leaving Rawnsley Park Station we were faced with some technical trails and creek crossings at the base of Rawnsley Bluff.

We then rode along the bitumen of Flinders Ranges Way, with Wilpena Pound to our left, until reaching the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park boundary. Upon entering the Park, we joined up with the Mawson Trail, for a long and super fun flowy descent to the Wilpena Road. Then, cutting across the highway to the Sacred Canyon dirt road, we rejoined the Flinders Ranges By Bike trail and headed north.

The next section was a pedal through native pines where we dodged a few emus, and then continued up along the Bunyeroo Valley Scenic Drive. Lunch was at a high point on the Scenic Drive, with a view of Wilpena Pound from the northeast.

After lunch came a flogging climb up Old Blinman Rd! This historical track rejoins Flinders Ranges Way, which connects to the Appealinna Ruins, and then finishes with a descent into Willow Springs Station.

Riding through Rawnsley Park Station.

Day 3 – Willow Springs to Gum Creek – 50km

We left the Shearer’s Quarters and climbed out of Willow Creek Station on a technical, loose, rock track. Upon reaching the saddle, we were rewarded with stunning views of the Bunker Ranges, before descending along station tracks towards Skull Rock.

We then cruised along the Pantapinna Track, riding alongside a few, big red kangaroos, and passing National Park Bounce Back rehabilitation sites. After stopping for lunch at the recently refurbished Guide Hut, we continued past Yalpipena Spring and Cousins Hut, and through a beautiful pass, before descending into Gum Creek Station.

Escapegoat’s vehicle transfer collected us from Gum Creek Station, and we opted to drive the extra 10km north to rehydrate at the North Blinman ‘Pub in the Scrub’.

That evening we were treated to a beautifully clear and balmy night, where the Outback sky of the Flinders Ranges put on a spectacular display!

The recently refurbished Guide Hut.

Day 4 – Gum Creek to Wilpena – 59km

Day 4 began with some tricky terrain through the Gum Creek station, before rejoining the Mawson Trail in Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. This was a day filled with extraordinary vistas as we rode flowy descents and navigated the occasional creek crossing.

We pedalled along the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail for a little bit where, if needed, there are toilets available at the Trezona Campground. While we didn’t make the stop, there is the opportunity for those interested in geology to see the only Golden Spike in the Southern Hemisphere. This is a geological marker that defines the base of the Ediacaran Period.

Lunch was at Bunyeroo Valley Lookout, before continuing on to Razorback Lookout. This was followed by a steep descent down and through the stunning Bunyeroo Gorge, and then we began a relentless 16km incline to Wilpena Pound. About halfway along the climb is Wilocra Campground, with toilets if needed.

Around 3km from finishing, you pass Old Wilpena Station, and then it’s a fun single trail to the Wilpena Village/General Store, where we were met by our Escapegoat van for the drive back to Willow Springs.

Our Base Camp for the week at the Willow Spring’s Shearer’s Quarters.

Day 5 – Wilpena to Rawsley via Sacred Canyon – 44km

Our final day began just outside Wilpena Village at the Cazneaux Tree. The majority of this day’s ride was along rarely used dirt roads and station tracks. I’ve never seen so many red kangaroos at once – riding alongside, or dodging them, as they shot across the trail, that was a highlight!

The climb up to Pugilist Hill Lookout was a decent effort, with the final pinch being the steepest we had faced all week. The push was absolutely worth it for the views across Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena Pound. From the lookout, we were blessed with a tailwind, as we rolled ourselves back into Rawnsley Park Station to complete the FRBB adventure.

On top of Pugilist Hill and enjoying the views across Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena Pound.

A shorter day meant an earlier finish, so we buzzed down to Hawker and grabbed lunch from the local food institution – Flinders Food Co. It was then into the mountain biking town of Melrose where we spent the night at Under The Mount – accommodation that has been purpose-built for mountain bikers!

For some pain-inducing fun (and because 200km clearly wasn’t enough), I decided to join the Over The Edge Bike Shop Ride out to Willowie Forest, before returning for our final dinner together at the Mt Remarkable Pub.

At Razorback Lookout before descending into Bunyeroo Gorge.

Day 6 – Melrose and returning to Adelaide

Before heading back to Adelaide, we grabbed the chance to experience some of the best mountain bike single trails in South Australia – the popular, Dodging Bullets, is my personal favourite! Our ride finished at Over the Edge, where I grabbed a coffee and one of their delicious chocolate raspberry brownies. It was then time to load up the van and begin the journey back to Adelaide.

You don’t have to be a Geologist to marvel over the formations of Skull Rock.

Throughout the five days of cycling, I suffered splits in both my front and rear tyres. While my tyres were new, in good condition, and I had them at an appropriate pressure… such is the nature of the rocky landscape, and a bit of bad luck! 

Fortunately, I was able to plug both tyres and reseal them, but in hindsight, adding a spare tyre to that list above would have been a good idea considering the landscape.

Luckily I could fix my tyre splits when they happened but next time I’d carry a spare.

Safety & Insurance

It’s important to remember that there is always a level of risk when mountain biking. Depending on your circumstances, I would recommend taking out travel and/or accident and injury insurance.

At the very least, it is recommended that you join a local cycling organisation, such as AusCycling (previously Mountain Bike Australia), or BikeSA. These organisations provide their members with cover for injuries that may occur whilst riding.

Finding Your Way

In theory, there are supposed to be FRBB signs at every junction, and roughly every kilometre. A confident ability to navigate through remote areas is just one of the many skills you’ll need if you plan to take on the loop without a guide. Utilise the FRBB website, which provides critical information on trail fees, safety, conditions of use, communications, trail maps, etc.

For me, leaning on Ian and Andy from Escapegoat made the most sense. They helped navigate the unreliability of trail signposts, and the ever-changing environment of the Flinders Ranges. They also provided backend support with meals, accommodation, and transfers. It allowed me to focus on doing what I set out to do… ride my bike, and enjoy doing it along the FRBB.

Coverage

Mobile coverage throughout the northern Flinders Ranges is limited! Hawker is the last town you will pass through with coverage. It is possible to get Telstra and Optus when brief stops are made at Rawnsley Park Station, Wilpena, and Blinman.

At our Willow Springs accommodation, there was basic free Wi-Fi internet available when near the camp kitchen. Plus laundry facilities for giving underwear and t-shirts a quick handwash, or rinsing off your bike at the end of the day.

Having fresh clothes for the next day’s ride helps give momentum.

Summary

After 4 days, 205km, and 2,225 vertical metres of mountain bike riding, it was a pretty surreal feeling to roll into Rawnsley Park Station and complete the Flinders Ranges by Bike loop.

It was certainly the adventure I had hoped it to be! The experience with Escapegoat allowed me to simply enjoy riding my bike in a landscape that I have visited numerous times, but never experienced in such an authentic and raw way.

The unique, rugged, and empowering vastness of the Flinders Ranges is what makes it so iconic, and this adventure was no different. Thankfully, I managed to stay upright and physically unscathed throughout. Mentally I felt refreshed and energised, and I am so grateful to have had this opportunity.

The post Flinders Ranges Bike Loop – A 200km MTB Adventure appeared first on Snowys Blog.

For those who have had the opportunity to walk the trail prior to that horrific summer, you would know how important it is to the local community. In the first step towards recovery and the trail being rebuilt, South Australia’s National Parks and Wildlife Service has reopened a modified Fire Recovery Experience to walkers. This access gives people the opportunity to experience the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail in a way like never before.

Cape du Couedic Lighthouse.

These unique circumstances enabled me to do what I’m passionate about. I strive to create opportunities for young people that allow them to push themselves outside their comfort zone. To learn through individual and collective adventure-based experiences and expand upon their capabilities.

A landscape where the wilderness is regenerating provides the means to achieve this purpose in the most effective way. Regrowth creates a sense of optimism and hope, and the sight of our iconic Australian bush bouncing back with fresh regrowth is inspiring. As are the views rarely seen due to the previous dense vegetation and native wildlife reclaiming their habitats.

To experience the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail from this new perspective with a group of young people who had never had the chance to undertake a trip like this before, was an immense privilege.

We chose to book our experience through Big Heart Adventures who provided a fully supported experience including transportation, ferry fees, park passes, accommodation with Western KI Caravan Park, trail drop-off and pick-up each day, and confidently guided our group along the trail.

I’m passionate about creating opportunities like this for young people.

What to expect

Similar to the original Wilderness Trail route, the full Fire Recovery Experience takes 5-days and continues to pass the Rocky River, the wild Southern Ocean, Cape du Couedic Lighthouse and Remarkable Rocks.

While elements of the trail have dramatically changed, some are still very much the same. The towering cliffs of limestone and coagulated magma, storm-blasted coastal scrub and massive arcs of white beaches are all still there. This is a trail for everyone, as it offers a diverse landscape that you can immerse yourself in. There’s plenty of rough and rocky surfaces to walk over without having to navigate too many climbs, and an abundance of flora and fauna to appreciate.

What makes this experience particularly special, is that it is one of those unique and all-consuming places in the world that encourages inner stillness, listening and awareness. 

Footwear cleaning stations have been re-established to help stop the spread of weeds post bushfires.

Fees

1. To support rehabilitation after the bushfires, the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail is only open to walkers doing the Fire Recovery Experience.
2. All bookings must be made through a licensed tour operator and Sealink ferry fees, park fees and accommodation fees are usually included within their tour cost. This FAQ page is a great resource for more information.

Fitness

1. The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail is categorised as a Grade 4 walking trail under the Australian Walking Track Grading System.
2. Our group got away with a minimal level of fitness, however, we all agree that better fitness would have enhanced our experience.
3. While there are no major climbs, there are some inclines and long days on the trail.
4. As the trail rehabilitates, it will take a toll on feet, ankles and knees. Some may want the support of hiking poles.
5. I would encourage you to prepare for this hike, as the more you put in, the more you’ll get out of the experience. 

Weather

1. Kangaroo Island is rugged and exposed. Part of its raw beauty is the wild and elemental conditions. When on the trail, you are vulnerable to whatever Mother Nature chooses to throw.
2. The months from November through to May are the most favourable.
3. Our experience was in April and I was incredibly impressed with the resilience of our group as they faced all four seasons over 5-days!

We lost sleep due to loud angry downpours and walked into sideways rain. Strong winds tried to push us off course and then there were moments of warm sunshine with stunning sunrises and sunsets. Almost every meteorological term was used throughout our trip to describe the weather we experienced.

Inland from Remarkable Rocks.

Services and support

Major changes since the bushfires that are currently in place include:

1. You must organise your walk with a Commerical Tour Operator (CTO) during this recovery phase to preserve the wilderness experience for everyone and to ensure sustainable management and rehabilitation of the trail.
2. Camping is not currently available along the trail, which means you’ll need to be transferred to and from each section in a vehicle and nightly accommodation away from the trail is required.
3. The drop-off point is the same location as each day’s pick-up point.
4. For the adventurers who crave the opportunity to stay out in the wilderness for the duration of the trail, we heard whispers on plans to have the trail campsites reestablished by April 2022.

Navigation

Trail markers and signage were destroyed in the bushfire and although work has begun to get this re-establish, navigation is difficult. Even more so if you have never walked the trail before. Notable points are:

1. Our CTO was invaluable as we were able to lean on his experience and knowledge for following the correct route each day.
2. A selection of downloadable navigation files in different formats are available from Data SA.

Equipment

With overnight/multi-day experiences not currently available, we didn’t have the need to carry extensive amounts of equipment. To make our experience more enjoyable though, we collectively agreed upon three essentials:

1. Quality footwear with plenty of support and traction. Sections two and three entail kilometres of walking over eroded limestone that’s been buffed smooth by the elements and decent shoes are necessary.
2. Hydration pack. Ensure you have the means to carry enough water for the day’s conditions as there are no tanks out on the trail.
3. Wind & rain jacket. The weather can be wild, and the wind can really pick up, especially when traversing the exposed coastlines. It’s certainly worth having a wind-proof jacket in your backpack.

The trail along the Rocky River.

Day 1 – Rocky River to Snake Lagoon

Our first day began with an early departure from Adelaide to catch the Cape Jervis to Penneshaw ferry. After grabbing a few supplies from town, we headed to the western side of the island and dropped our bags off at our accommodation. We then began the afternoon’s walk near the footprint of what was the former Visitor Centre by Rocky River.

With intermittent showers falling, we moved west towards the coast and through regenerating mallee scrub and eucalypt woodland. The evident wildflowers and birdlife were testaments to nature’s resilience.

Reaching the Rocky River cascades was a perfect spot to take a quick snack break. While there was water around, the volume was not enough for the cascades to be flowing, but it was still a stunning sight. Towards the end of this section, the trail scoots around Snake Lagoon where we were lucky enough to spot an echidna! There is a transportable toilet in the car park here which is also the pick-up point for returning to your accommodation.

Section 1 remains relatively unchanged from the pre-bushfire Wilderness Trail and a terrific breakdown of each day can be found here.

With the lighthouse far off in the distance, we walked along the clifftop at Maupertuis Bay.

Day 2 – Snake Lagoon to Cape du Couedic

Following on from Day 1, the trail continues along the Rocky River towards the Southern Ocean. We decided to take the 2km return side trip all the way down to the mouth which, despite the persistent rain, was a beautiful spot for a moment of both appreciation and reflection.

Once back on the main trail, the terrain changes dramatically as you move up onto the clifftop, where the eroding limestone makes it feel like you are walking on the moon. This is one spot where you will want footwear with good traction.

The next point of interest is reaching Maupertuis Bay where you head down onto the white beach below. Our group certainly found this sandy stretch the most challenging of the entire trail and lunch within the shelter of some caves at the southern end of the beach was well-earned.

What a sight! Watching the sun set through the Admirals Arch.

Following lunch, we started winding our way back up onto the clifftop, and towards the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse. The second half of the day continues to meander along the coastline, moving from the undulating rock to a fire trail before finishing at Admirals Arch.

Section 2 has also remained relatively unchanged since before the bushfires, except it currently finishes at Admiral’s Arch where toilets are available. After nearly 9 hours of walking and covering just over 20km, it was the biggest delight to be in the company of New Zealand Fur Seals while watching the sunset through the Arch.

The scrub regrowth over Yacca Flat was incredible to witness.

Day 3 – Weirs Cove to Sanderson Bay

The drop-off point is at the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottages and this section of the trail entails a slight re-route at the start but like the first couple of days, the remainder is relatively unchanged.

There are beautiful views and the first glimpse of Remarkable Rocks in the distance. Upon reaching the storehouse ruins, the trail heads inland through the scrub and over sand dunes where there’s the welcome sight of towering flower spikes across Yacca Flat. Some are well over 6m tall and it’s amazing to see so much growth a mere 18-months after such destruction.

Remarkable Rocks reappeared after several kilometres of inland walking and the opportunity to get up close is very cool. The Rocks are both impressive and curious and made a great spot for lunch before continuing east along the coast.

Toilets are located at Cape de Couedic Lighthouse, as well as Remarkable Rocks. There is also the option to finish the day with a side trip to the secluded beach of Sanderson Bay.

The final stretch of the trail is along the south coast of the island near Hanson Bay.

Day 4 – Sanderson Bay to Hanson Bay Road

Leaving Sanderson Bay and walking along the coast, the western view back towards Remarkable Rocks has changed. The landscape has taken on a new perspective since the bushfires and admiring this from the top of the cliffs as another rain front approached made a spectacular sight.

As Cape Younghusband starts to appear, the route has now been redirected inland along the fire trail around the recovering Southern Ocean Lodge property. This change provides unique views back inland from the coast and it was along this fire trail that we spotted our first Rosenberg Goanna.

Upon reaching the designated pick-up point at Hanson Bay Rd we took the opportunity to extend our walk and headed south again to the Hanson Bay headland. There are toilets available at the pickup point and finishing the day with the view east across the bay was well worth it.

You can still see the charred remains from where the bushfire reached the banks of the South West River.

Day 5 – Kelly Hill Caves to Hanson Bay

Our fifth and final day was our shortest distance on the trail and since the bushfires, this section has been redirected. It is now walked in reverse – starting at Kelly Hill Caves and concluding at Hanson Bay.

For those who have walked the trail before you would remember the pulley boat to get you across the South West River. Unfortunately, this boat was lost in the fire and the trail now leads through that area up to the beach.

This last section was just over 10km, which we completed in just under 4 hours. There are transportable toilets to start the walk at Kelly Hill Caves and like the previous day, upon reaching Hanson Bay, there are toilets available there.

Carefully managed foot traffic along the trail helps to keep the path clear of vegetation.

Supporting Bushfire Recovery

1. Some areas of the island have suffered irreparable loss and many megafauna species are now extinct.
2. Recording plant and animal observations via citizen science apps like iNaturalistAU and ClimateWatch, assists with research and understanding of how the environment is recovering. Knowledge, awareness and education all contribute to better conservation outcomes.
3. A portion of your trail fee is directed to rehabilitation and conservation programs.
4. Walker numbers are limited and to support this stage of recovery and all bookings must be made through a licensed tour operator.
5. Through the careful management of numbers, the South Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service are encouraging and promoting the Fire Recovery Experience. Regular foot traffic along the trail helps to control and limit the regrowth of vegetation on the path while enabling the surrounding environment to thrive.

Let’s all pick up rubbish and dispose of it responsibly.

If you come across rubbish and ocean waste, #take3forthesea and pick it up as you go. Every little bit of effort contributes towards a greater positive impact. With your CTO pick-up at the end of each day’s walk, the Fire Recovery Experience gives visitors a perfect opportunity to protect our waterways as well as our native flora and fauna.

For fees and up to date information visit the website and their FAQ page.

We did it and what an achievement is was!

Our group walked an approximate total of 77km over 32 hours, a distance and timeframe that includes the numerous side trips we undertook.

Across the 5 sections, we battled sideways rain, faced wind strong enough to knock you off balance and basked in soothing sunshine. We ventured through the regenerating scrub, along coastlines and followed creeks. We saw native flora rehabilitating, native fauna re-establishing their habitat and tourism returning to the area.

I would encourage anyone to embrace this experience while you can. It’s an opportunity to celebrate the resilience of Mother Nature and witness Karta Pintingga ‘The Island of the Dead’, coming back to life. It really was a uniquely special experience and after 5 days, our group felt such a huge sense of achievement.

As one of my students perfectly reflected on the experience…

‘What I took away from this experience is, hiking is a metaphor/example of life. You just have to keep on moving and put one foot in front of the other. There are always going to be bumps in the road, but in the end, we can always reach our goals if we keep on moving forward at our own pace, and discover more about ourselves.’

Are you keen to visit Kangaroo Island and support the Fire Recovery Experience?

The post Kangaroo Island Fire Recovery Experience appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In some parts of this big land, you can get sub-zero temperatures during the winter months, while in other areas the mercury can tip 50 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day. Then there are the arid and dry regions and some that are humid and muggy.

If you are touring and on the move, doing the big lap or even a half lap, with a little planning, you can have a good chance of avoiding the rain and cold temperatures for as long as you like. It’s all about being in the right part of Australia at the right time.

When touring with a tent, you are much more exposed to the weather.

Why does the weather matter?

Life on the road exposes you to the elements much more compared to when you are at home. More time is spent outdoors, and you often have less gear for managing inclement weather. Your travel setup will determine how vulnerable you are to changes in the weather and to what degree this influences when and where you go.

With a tent for shelter, you can’t simply shut the door, turn on the heater and kick back to see out the storm as you can at home. Even a caravan or motorhome is far more comfortable and accommodating in bad weather than a tent or swag, especially if your caravan is equipped with air conditioning and an onboard kitchen, toilet and shower.

Ultimately, the weather affects what you can do and how comfortable you are when doing it. Adverse weather needs to be managed differently so it’s important to plan the direction and timing of your trip.

The southwest of WA has plenty of rain in winter.

What do you have to think about?

There are 4 main weather conditions to be aware of when touring Australia:

• Temperature – there’s a big difference between 25 degrees and sub-zero, and if you aren’t prepared with appropriate gear, at best you’ll be uncomfortable but at worst, you can put yourself in significant danger.
• Wind – this is not entirely unpredictable as the wind tends to follow patterns related to the different seasons. However, if you are coastal camping or somewhere equally exposed and the wind blows its head off for several days straight, your trip is going to be really unpleasant.
• Rain and Snow – I like rain and snow, but only when I’m prepared for it. Some parts of Australia experience torrential downpours and no matter how well you’ve planned things, rainfall is hard to predict. On the other hand, snowy conditions are usually only during the winter months and designated to the alpine regions. If visiting during this time, it’s essential to stay informed on the current conditions and be properly equipped.
• Humidity – some folks love it while others struggle and if you’re exploring the northern parts of Australia all year round, some humidity is unavoidable. These conditions are at their peak during the wet season from November to April and can make a big difference to your comfort levels, especially if you are not used to it.

Swimming in Moore River, WA.

What does the weather affect?

Not only are your comfort and safety a concern, but the weather can affect everything from seasonal closures on roads and station camping to boating, fishing and other activities. We have had some nasty weather events in Australia over the last year which have only highlighted the importance of staying informed and being as prepared and safe as possible.

When it’s warm, everyone loves a swim to cool off but there are some areas where the beaches, creeks and rivers are unsafe. If you’re exploring the northern regions, that swim could go horribly wrong if crocodiles inhabit the water. In parts of the Murray River, the water on the surface looks inviting and calm but beneath lurks a frightening current that can potentially sweep you under. Planning your trip so that you can make the most of the weather and your environment will hopefully mean you can avoid being caught out in the middle of summer with nowhere safe to cool off!

A caravan makes for a much more comfortable trip.

What travel setup do you have?

We briefly mentioned above that different travel setups will suit different scenarios. If you have a caravan or motorhome and your plan is to hop between caravan parks through the wet season up north, it’s entirely possible to be comfortable at night with an air conditioner and use the onsite swimming pool to keep cool during the day.

Try it in a tent and you’ll probably have a hard time sleeping at night. Then when the build-up breaks into torrential rain, trying to cook a meal or stop your tent from floating away with the runoff will be a serious struggle.

Likewise, tent camping during cold weather is certainly doable with the right setup. An insulated mat and decent sleeping bag can make all the difference and if you are touring with a caravan or motorhome, chances are you’ll have heating.

Ultimately, you can travel and camp in most weather conditions, but it’s the gear that will determine your level of comfort.

The Duke of Orleans Bay in Esperance on the southwest coast of WA.

How to check the weather

The Bureau of Meteorology is the best place to visit when you’re planning your lap. The website might be a bit clunky and contains more data than you would ever need. But, you can literally look at years and years of weather history, including average monthly rainfall, temperature, humidity and wind.

For example, if we are planning a long beach camping trip we will always look at the winds for the previous year, and the averages for the time we want to go. Western Australia is well known for horrendous winds along the western coastline, especially during the ‘r‘ months – September, November, December, January, February, March and April.

Of course, history isn’t a guarantee that things are going to be perfect, but it gives you a much greater probability for what to expect and when so that you can plan for the weather you want.

The BOM website is great for pre-planning but once you are on the road, the app might be more user-friendly. We use this to keep an eye on the weather and adjust our plans accordingly. If a big storm front is coming in, it’s best to head away from the coast and seek some protection elsewhere. Consider that much of the northern part of Australia experiences cyclones and those conditions are not suitable for being on the road. You will need to seek appropriate shelter. Likewise, if you are travelling through a bushfire risk area during the warmer months, download the necessary state or territory apps and stay informed.

Other apps that are handy to have on your phone can be found here.

Crossing Manning Gorge northwest of Broome.

What is the ‘best’ weather?

This is where things get interesting! If you listen to the Snowys Podcast, you would have heard the two hosts discussing how people like travelling and camping in different weather. For some, kicking back around a campfire on a freezing winter’s night is as good as it gets. Yet others have had enough if the temperature drops below 15 degrees.

At the end of the day, it’s about matching your gear, activities and climatic preferences to the location that’s going to give you the best chance for an ideal experience. If you head along the south coast of Australia during June, July and August, you are not likely to get warm, sunny days and idyllic beach weather. If you’re wanting warmth, clear skies and sunshine, at that time of year you’re better off heading the other way and going north as far as you can!

There are 5 main climatic zones – tropical, sub-tropical, arid, Mediterranean and temperate. Although still regarded as temperate, the Australian Alps are more as the name suggests, alpine.

With the right gear, winter camping and kicking back around the campfire is a great experience.

During the southern winter, the areas north of the Tropic of Capricorn boast sunny and warm conditions. But when the south is experiencing its hot and dry summer, the north goes into its wet season with extreme humidity and torrential rain. It’s during this time that many places become inaccessible due to flooding and road closures, so to avoid disappointment and stay safe from cyclonic patterns, it’s best to tour the north from May through to October and head south from November to April.

There’s a reason why in summer, people head south for the cooler weather and in winter, everyone flocks north for their tropical getaways! The mass grey nomad migration in the wintertime is evidence of hundreds of thousands of people who don’t want to endure another cold and wet winter.

But each to their own. To get your perfect weather, just head in the direction that has the temperature and conditions you desire. If warm, sunny days for 365 days of the year is want you dream of, then you can plan you lap of Australia and for the most part, live your dream.

Your initial point of departure and the time of year in which you depart will determine the direction in which you first head off. So, here’s a 12-month guide to help kick-start your lap based on warm temperatures and minimal wind, rain/snow and humidity:

• November/December/January/February/March – follow the coastline south of the Tropic of Capricorn.
• April/May/September/October – start heading north and inland.
• June/July/August – anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn (coastal and inland).

Bear in mind there is some leeway and crossover between the ‘shoulder’ months what you want to avoid is the Red Centre during the peak of summer and the far tropical regions during the height of the Wet. If you love snow sports, it’s likely you’ll want to hit the Australian Alps during ski season so of course, there is some flexibility here, but you get the gist.

Perfect nights in the Kimberley.

In 2018, we left Perth in May and spent 3-months in a camper trailer. The only bad weather we had was the first, and last part of the trip when we were close to Perth. Once you hit the Shark Bay region on Australia’s Coral Coast, there is a distinct increase in temperature and a decrease in the chance of rain.

That is our perfect weather, and we often try and escape the Perth winter. However, we also love camping down south during the colder months but we do so with the right gear and are ready if the weather turns.

What’s your perfect weather for touring?

The post How to Get the Best Weather for Your Lap of Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

‘It was an absolute soul-searching journey, from kilometre one to kilometre a hundred and sixty... I got battled down to my core… You have to go through those things to come out the other side a different person. It was brutal.’

Jackson Holtham is a 24-year old Performance Coach, Snowboard Coach and Ultramarathon Runner. From humble beginnings with Snowys Dispatch seven years ago, the guy continues to go from strength to strength and is staring down the barrel of a bright and inspiring future!

May 2021 played host to the final Hubert 100 event and was Jackson’s first endurance undertaking of this kind. The 100-mile/160km ultramarathon kicked off from Wilpena Pound in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park and spanned 36-hours across the Outback landscape, including the 1,168m summit of St Mary Peak.

Eleven hours is the longest Jackson has previously run and after this experience, he is more eager than ever to build upon what he’s learnt and keep on building.

Check out Jackson’s journey into his first ultramarathon and follow the highs and lows of each step.

The post Running the Hubert 100 in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges appeared first on Snowys Blog.

I found it right here in South Australia: St Francis Island in the Nuyts Archipelago – a group of roughly 30 islands and reefs off the coast of Ceduna in the Great Australian Bight.

St Francis Island is the base for 3 night/4 day expeditions.

I managed to sneak a spot on the first-ever ‘test’ tour out to St Francis Island which, at around 2,000 acres, is the second-largest island in the group and sits approximately 60km off the coast. Before you get too excited over the thought of an island getaway, this is not the Whitsundays. We’re talking remote, rugged and wild, with not a palm tree or fancy cocktail in sight.

There is a limit of 12 passengers per tour.

The history of the island is all a bit sketchy, and details are lacking on what, how, when and where. A hundred or so years ago, it was used as a base for sheep farming and at some stage, it was likely part of the whaling industry. Our goal was to be amongst the small handful of people who have camped on the island over the last century.

I was personally interested in seeing some cool wildlife and having a unique adventure. One that’s not experienced by the masses and has not saturated Instagram feeds or been hashtagged to death.

Wowee, did I manage to achieve that!

The good looking carpet python.

We’d been on the island for a grand total of about 45-seconds before the first python slithered through camp. Now, I’m no fan of the old nope rope/danger noodle/wiggle stick, but this was one good looking snake. Also, I didn’t even know we had pythons in South Australia! Bonus points for the fact that, unlike the snakes I usually see, this one can’t actually kill you. Winning.

The islands of Nuyts Archipelago are a sanctuary for birds.

Being a bit of a bird lover, I was hoping to see some white-bellied sea eagles and this area is what you would describe as a hot spot. Ducking between islands on the boat we managed to see three separate birds, including one on a nest.

Some people might not overly care much about such things, but I was totally doing a happy dance. We also saw a bunch of ospreys which was pretty cool.

A population of over 500,000 short-tailed shearwaters mate and nest on the island.

Despite the many species of birds, the island is most famous for its local population of a few hundred thousand shearwaters, aka mutton birds – yes, because of how they taste, no, I didn’t eat one.

Each morning before dawn they head out to sea to do whatever it is shearwaters do out there – swim, fish, frolic? At sunset, they fly back to the island and to their underground nests. I don’t care if you’re into birds or not, seeing a ‘swarm’ of thousands and thousands of birds descending on the island is a sight to behold. Unless you remember that Hitchcock film The Birds, in which case it might be truly terrifying!

It’s a careful walk through the shearwater nesting ground to reach the ruins.

Birds aside, we also explored some small sea caves and checked out the old farmer’s ruins. To think that someone from way back when, was silly enough to believe the island would be a good place to keep sheep.

There’s some pretty great snorkelling straight off the beach too and oh, that’s right, a pod of friendly dolphins swam right up to shore a few times a day. I even managed to jump in and say hi to them during our trip and yes it was cold but come on people, dolphins! Dolphins that you can swim with! Those that are not stuck in a marine park and literally no other people around!

I’m classifying it as one of the most ridiculously coolest things I’ve done in a very long time. To be fair, courtesy of Covid, I’ve done bugger all these last 12 months, but this measures up against stuff I did before 2020 when you could actually go places.

Ruddy turnstones are among the many types of birds inhabiting the islands of the Nuyts Archipelago.

If you’re into critters there were also some crazy little spiders, some sea lions and a legless lizard – not drunk, it just didn’t have any legs and I’m still convinced that makes it a snake but apparently not.

Back to birds, it was spotters paradise! Among the sea eagles, ospreys and shearwaters, there was also sooty oystercatchers, hooded plovers, ruddy turnstones, honeyeaters, rock parrots, and terns. Just to name a few!

Tour operator, Rod, worked with National Parks SA to offer these small group expeditions.

You’re probably thinking this all sounds pretty great, and you’d be right. So, why isn’t it more popular? Well, there’s a catch.

First of all, it’s remote. Not ‘remote’ as in the kind of stuff they say in brochures to lure you in, but this is actually remote. Not just a little bit remote, I mean really remote. 60km offshore means you ain’t swimming there or even taking your tinny out for a quick look around. You need a big boat to get out there and on top of that, a fair chunk of the journey is across a particularly tricky section of water, so you need to really know what you’re doing to make the return trip safely.  

St Francis Island is part of the Nuyts Archipelago Wilderness Protection Area and visitors must leave no trace. Since they are the only tours operating, the good people at EP Cruises have special permission to keep a few basics on the island to avoid having to cart everything in and out for each expedition.

It was a mighty storm!

We went in November which the locals call ‘Blowvember’ so our weather was rough. We got out there easily enough, but couldn’t get back safely and ended up having to wait out the worst of a storm by spending an extra day. Then the trip back was a tad bumpy, but I’ve seen photos from tours since our ‘tester’ and in place of the rain and forks of lightning we endured, these tours boast clear skies and calm seas.

We camped in the dunes and despite the storm, our swags held up really well.

If you’re a nature lover and like solitude, the ocean, wildlife, fresh seafood, snorkelling, hiking, exploring near to uncharted territory and having very cool camping experiences, this is well worth looking into. You might even spot a cheeky whale swimming past! We saw one at a distance but during whale season you’re better off heading to ‘nearby’ Fowlers Bay.

Swimming with wild dolphins is the coolest thing I’ve done in a long time.

For what it’s worth, here’s what I packed for this remote and wild island adventure:

1. Warm clothes – I love merino for the comfort, warmth and stink-less-ness. A quick dip in the ocean was my shower.
2. Waterproof jacket. 
3. Snorkelling gear including a 5mm wetsuit.
4. Merrell Moab hiking boots – these are awesome and go with me everywhere!
5. I slept in a 23Zero Dual Swag – it kept me nice and dry and held up well in some pretty extreme weather.
6. Warm sleeping bag

EP Cruises supplied food, water, tables, chairs, and a couple of gazebos for shelter… but I took snacks. Because… snacks!

What’s been your wildest, most remote adventure?

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The slower pace of kayaking is one of the best ways to soak up the wildlife and appreciate the magnificence of the Coorong National Park, while also keeping your footprint light within the pristine environment.

The saltwater lagoons within the Coorong National Park span the coastline for 130km.

From the Goolwa Barrage, the park extends along the Younghusband Peninsula and is known for its network of channels, lagoon and extensive coastal dunes.

We were keen to test out the gear-carrying potential of a new inflatable kayak, so a short overnight trip was planned in the Northern Lagoon from Hindmarsh Island to the Younghusband Peninsula and return. On an overcast, “what happened to Spring!?” day in November, we launched from the Mundoo Channel boat ramp and paddled in the channel past the holiday houses toward Bird Island. A north-westerly wind was blowing rain across the landscape behind us and we wondered if it would reach us before we had a chance to cross the Coorong Channel and make camp.

Loading our gear into our inflatable kayak at the Mundoo Channel boat ramp.

Kayakers have to share the main channels with powered boats. This makes bright clothing and gear important so the kayak can be seen, especially in weather where visibility is impaired. We found that many of the bigger boats powered right past us, requiring a frantic paddle to turn perpendicular so as to avoid a swamping from their wake! Most of the little dinghies slowed right down and waved. Maybe there’s some truth in the saying about the size of your boat being inverse to the size of your…!

Some navigating was required to set a comfortable course between the channel markers and shallow sections, as well as the boats when they passed. Occasionally, we considered getting out and towing the kayak but it was definitely more appealing to remain seated rather than step out into the slimy, murky shallows. The water level in the Coorong lagoons can depend on the season and management of the barrages. Once you are closer to the Southern Lagoon, the wind becomes the biggest influencer over conditions and the level of strength you need for paddling.

Finally on the water and keeping safe with a high-vis shirt and trendy legionnaire’s hat.

The strong north-westerly made for an exciting and choppy crossing of the Coorong Channel, leaving us covered in salty sea-spray flicked up from the paddles. It was a relief to be sheltered from the wind once we reached the lee of the dunes on the northern side of Younghusband peninsula.

We continued south-east past the Barker Knoll boating campsite, where a large group was camped on the shore with swags and a dinghy. G’day was shouted and we lamented with them about their swags in the rain before continuing on to find a quiet spot further down. 

The Coorong looks like mostly scrub from afar, but in the right season a variety of flowering plants, like pigface, can be found. 

‘Leave no trace’ camping is allowed for kayakers along the shore and foredunes of the Younghusband Peninsula. We found a place set back in the dunes and away from the wind, although the occasional swirling blast did whip through. Being somewhat out-of-place among the usual Coorong scrub, it was strange to see a large pine tree at the back of the site. After speculating about how it came to be there – a cone dropped by a bird, or perhaps a shack was buried in the sand nearby – we held a gear relay to move our camping gear and kayak up from the shore. 

Camped among the dunes, the camera doesn’t quite capture the feeling of serenity… or the number of mosquitos.

The weather was worsening rapidly with frequent showers and low cloud had turned the water a dull grey. The slightly oppressive conditions are typical of a late spring day around the Coorong and within our more sheltered position, a thick cloud of mosquitos descended upon us as we set up the tent. The insect repellent containing picaridin worked well to keep them at bay so we didn’t have to bring out the heavy-duty Bushman, but we had it ready just in case the mozzies were extra hungry!

Not a mozzie but a curious little sand ant.

It was time to bunker down in the tent, cook dinner with our Trangia stove and have an early night. On this short trip we decided to break away from the usual diet of instant pasta, and stretch the budget to include a couple of Back Country Cuisine meals. The Beef Stroganoff and the Cottage Pie were surprisingly filling, and dinner was complete with a serving of Apricot Crumble and a mug of lemonade. A bottle of soft drink makes a welcome change from plain water and has become a staple inclusion on trips when temperatures are cooler and the extra weight can be justified. 

An efficient and neatly set out ‘camp kitchen’. The empty mugs are eagerly awaiting to be filled with hot tea from the Trangia stove. 

By morning the weather had cleared, heightening morale among the crew of the SS Inflatable!  The lagoon sparkled, and the brilliant sunshine warmed the damp sand beneath our feet. A breakfast of tea, muesli bars and long-life cheeses was enjoyed in the scrub, before hauling the kayak back to shore and loading it up for the return journey. If you’ve got a spare hour, follow the signed trails at Barker Knoll and Godfrey’s Landing to take a walk across the dunes from the Coorong lagoon to the Southern Ocean. It’s about 2km return and a great way to stretch the legs before hopping back into the kayak. 

A clear morning and a brilliant day for kayaking. Mundoo Island can be seen in the background on the other side of the Coorong Channel.   

Although the wind had stilled, we stuck close to the dunes before heading across the Coorong Channel toward Bird Island. This crossing is quite exposed and can be difficult in certain wind conditions. Sometimes a portage is easier to avoid being blown east into Mundoo Island. In this instance, head west along the shore of the Younghusband Peninsula before crossing the Coorong Channel.

Kayaking allowed us to appreciate the quiet, pristine environment at the Coorong.

The conditions of the return journey were in vast contrast to the choppy waters we paddled through the previous afternoon. The weather was beautiful which made for an enjoyable and (mostly) flatwater paddle back to the Mundoo Channel boat ramp. Passing Bird Island, the pelicans were out and about, as well as numerous wading birds. The Coorong provides an important habitat for wildlife, and kayaking via the myriad backwaters that form the wetlands is ideal for bird-watching.

It’s heart-warming to think that every pelican in the Mundoo Channel could be a distant cousin of the famed Storm Boy character, Mr Percival.

This overnight trip can be taken at a leisurely pace and is achievable for kayakers of varying experience. In inclement weather, however, a stronger skill set may be needed to negotiate the channels. Paddling time can be between 1-3 hours in each direction. Self-sufficient camping along the Coorong lagoon is straightforward and a camping permit can be obtained from the NPWS website. Just don’t forget to pack the essentials below and always respect the environment.

• Tent
• Sand pegs
• Sleeping gear
• Water
• Insect repellent
• Dry sacks
• Food
• Stove

Useful links and info

The Coorong National Park Office are usually very friendly, and happy to provide information and assistance. Phone: (+61 8) 8575 1200

National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) – Coorong National Park

Camping permits are necessary the Coorong National Park and can be purchased through the NPWS Book & Pay. 

A selection of Coorong National Park maps can be downloaded from NPWS here.

This NPWS map shows the area around Bird Island and Godfrey’s Landing where we paddled. 

Paddle SA has a useful website with kayak trails and information for inspiration and trip planning around South Australia. 

This Water for Future factsheet provides an interesting outline of the ecological features of the Coorong, and the environmental challenges it faces.  

What kayaking adventures have you done?

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For those wanting to go off-road with their four-wheel-drive vehicle, options are available in the National Parks and along Public Access Routes, but many station properties have opened self-drive tracks and there are now plenty to choose from.

Where is the Caernarvon Track located?

The Caernarvon Track is a little different than most self-drive 4WD tracks. It is situated on the Bunkers Conservation Reserve, which is managed by the not-for-profit Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby Preservation Association (YFRWPA) Inc.

The Reserve is a unique property covering 140 square kilometres within the lands of the Adnyamathanha people and shares boundaries with Willow Springs Station, Martins Well Station, and the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.

Grazing ceased in 2001 when the Reserve was established, and ongoing control of feral animals has reduced environmental pressure on the local habitat, which is aiding the recovery of native flora and fauna.

The highest self-drive track in the Flinders

The Caernarvon Track’s claim to fame is that it allows you to drive the summit of Mt Caernarvon at 921m, making it the highest self-drive track in the Flinders. However, as we found out on a cold and windy day in June, there are plenty more reasons to drive the Track than just to be able to say you made it to the top of Mt Caernarvon.

Accessing the track

Access to the Bunkers Conservation Reserve is in the North-Central Flinders Ranges near Wilpena Pound on the way to Blinman. The drive from Hawker is picturesque and a bit sporty in the rolling hills after Wilpena, before you turn onto the dirt just past the Oraparinna airstrip for a 25km drive to the Caernarvon Track front gate.

Setting off on our trip

We were lucky enough to have a member of the Association along for the trip, allowing us to camp on the property the night before driving the track. We awoke early (for a weekend), breakfasted and set off at 9:30 am. Five to six hours is the recommended time to drive the 50km track.

Our convoy was made up of a variety of 4WD vehicles: an old Nissan Patrol, a Rodeo ute, Mitsubishi Challenger, Landcruiser and a fresh-faced Ford Everest.

A ‘track notes’ booklet provided a running commentary on the history, flora, fauna, and geology of the region. Arriving at the first gate – there are several control gates along the track – we let our tires down slightly, to try and minimise the wear on the track and the tyres.

The first couple of hill climbs

The weather was sunny but cool, with patches of rain moving across and a blustery wind on top of the hills that was strong enough to make opening the car doors a challenge. The first couple of hill climbs had blind crests that kept the drivers on their toes, with constant chatter over the radio: “we’re through, send the next contender…”. There was plenty of peering over the bonnet to determine where the track went next when the windscreen was full of blue sky.

Arriving at Murray’s Gulley

We passed through some low-lying hills and along a creek bed, through the sparse country that supported a few scraggly trees. The white soil changed to the typical deep orange soils of the Flinders, and we arrived at the first picnic spot ‘Murray’s Gulley’ for a cup of tea. The two picnic spots provided along the track have benches and even drop toilets, an unexpected luxury this far into the bush.

The sun was shining brightly but the air still had a quite a chill, probably 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. The area was flat enough to have a kick of the footy, so that’s just what we did while waiting for the kettle to boil, although there were a few close calls due to badly-aimed kicks from our resident cricketer.

Continuing along the track

After the morning tea break, we jumped back in the cars and continued along the track which climbed out of the creek and started to follow the ridgelines. Some of the climbs were underlain by loose rock, but nothing to trouble the four-wheel drives in the dry weather. As the track wove higher and higher, the gum trees and native pines of the creek were replaced with spinifex and soon we had expansive views of the Bunkers and Little Bunkers Ranges, and out to the eastern plains and Martins Well station.

The summit of Mt Caernarvon

A series of final ascents took us to the summit of Mt Caernarvon at 921m. The northwesterly winds were blowing the clouds to create a natural light show with the surrounding mountains – alternating between shadow and bright sunlight. We filled out the visitors’ book next to the large rock cairn on the top, took some group photos, and then set off down a spur on the other side of the mountain.

The descent was fairly steep and had sections where the track looped back almost 180 degrees. You could wave across the valley at the drivers further behind in the convoy! Despite a high rainfall event in February, the country is still recovering from years of low rainfall and this could be seen as we passed some very dry-looking shrubs on the south-eastern side of the ranges.

Stopping for lunch after the descent

The track dropped back into the creek bed, and we stopped for lunch and a cup of tea at the second picnic area, a pleasant spot out of the brisk wind that had sent us from the top of Mt Caernarvon. The older folk in our group ate pre-packed sandwiches, while the young guns decided to break out the BBQ.

However, finding a level spot proved difficult and those with sandwiches were finished and ready to go before the first snag had even hit the hotplate.

Ascending to the Southern Lookout

With the BBQ saga completed, we followed the creek along the narrow valley before ascending to the Southern Lookout. The descent from this saddle was steep enough to warrant a group briefing. We sent the brave driver of the Rodeo first, and thoughts such as “wonder if an old Falcon or Commodore could make it this far…” vanished as we watched the ute descend sharply into the valley.

It was one vehicle at a time on this section: proper first gear-low range stuff. The drivers held on with white knuckles, while the passengers enjoyed a spectacular view of the Flinders Ranges to the south. After all the vehicles had reached the bottom, some of us made a brief recce on foot back up the steep section, which proved difficult to even walk up. The track had a smooth but shaly base and would be rather slippery in the wet. There were rocks either side and some in the middle, with others having been pushed aside by descending vehicles.

The track skirted through the valley, and the country opened out and became drier as we neared the fence at the southern boundary of the property. Every few minutes the track crossed small creek bed washouts that required a gentle approach, low speed, and good control of the throttle. A few washouts were deceptively sharp and sent a solid clunk through the suspension when hit any speed above walking pace.

The final 15km

On the final fifteen kilometres, a couple of old sheep yards and Boulder Bore with its decommissioned windmill gave us a taste of the property’s pastoral history. The old water tank at Boulder Bore was full of holes – we hoped these had formed after the windmill had pumped its last drop.

We turned north at about 3 pm and drove along the valley floor between The Bunkers range and the Little Bunkers range. The sun cast long shadows to create a colourful palette across the mountains and with several patches of thick bulldust, we kept the vehicles a good distance apart so as to avoid the onslaught of dust from the car in front.

Near where the track passes Pinnacle Gap we spotted a few Euro kangaroos, but they quickly bounced away into the shadows.

Arriving at the final gate

We arrived at the final gate just as the sun dipped behind the ranges; we had taken just over 6 hours to complete the track at a leisurely pace with a couple of breaks. Once all the cars had passed through, we stopped for a moment to take in the warm sunlight on the Little Bunkers range and savour the satisfaction of finishing the drive.

The Caernarvon Track was an enjoyable day tour with superb views, enough challenge to keep it interesting for the drivers, and the knowledge that we were contributing to conservation efforts in the Flinders.

Details and accommodation

The Caernarvon Track is open all year, subject to weather conditions and availability. The self-drive 4WD tour is $60 per vehicle, plus camping fees (if required). Camping is only available when a volunteer member host is present at the campground. All funds raised go directly to assist the work of the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby Preservation Association Inc.

Bookings can be made via e-mail at bookings@caernarvontrack.com. Information about the YFRWPA is available here while information about the Caernarvon Track is available here.

Camping and accommodation are available at several stations and resorts near to the Bunkers. Station Stays SA has a good map of accommodation options and the Flinders & Outback Guide provides useful details about tourism and touring the Flinders.

What’s the best 4WD track you’ve driven on in SA?

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We’ve rounded up the best camping, hiking, and 4WDing, mixed it in with beaches, rivers, and bush, then added a good dose of outback just to satisfy your wonderlusting heart! So, read on for some inspiration and guidance on your next South Aussie getaway.

If you just want to read up on certain activities, then you can skip ahead here:

• Camping & sightseeing
• River adventures
• Hiking & walking
• 4WDing and road trips

Camping & sightseeing 

Fleurieu Peninsula

The three South Australian peninsulas are just bursting with memorable experiences and landscapes, that there really is something on offer for everyone.

It’s home to  McLaren Vale, one of the world’s finest wine regions. Or there’s the quiet seaside town of Goolwa, the family-friendly Victor Harbour, and the pristine beaches of Port Elliot – so the Fleurieu Peninsula provides activities for all.

If you’re more keen to camp, then book a couple of nights at the Deep Creek Conservation Park. Or grab your kayak or SUP and head to Rapid Bay, Second Valley or Carrickalinga.

The calm waters of Rapid Bay. Image: Faye Martin

Eyre Peninsula

Producing some of the most highly sought after seafood in the world, Port Lincoln is also prized for its pristine ocean and marine life. Local businesses love to showcase the natural assets to visitors and offer experiences such as fishing charters, shark cave diving and swimming with sea lions.

With so many activities on offer such as fishing charters, shark cave diving and swimming with sea lions. Or, you can just take it easy by the water and head down to the picturesque September Beach, Memory Cove, or Tractor Beach.

Relax and unwind on Tractor Beach. Image: Faye Martin

Yorke Peninsula

The Yorke Peninsula is a beach and water lover’s dream come true. Go crabbing at Port Julia, camp out right next to the secluded beaches and shipwrecks at Innes National Park, grab your snorkel and check out the marine life at Point Turton. Alternatively, if you’re in the mood to stretch your legs and take in the fresh sea air, then why not also try the Walk the Yorke Trail.

Camp out at Innes National Park. Image: Faye Martin

Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island is without a doubt one of the most incredible places to visit in South Australia, if not the world. Having been ravaged by the 2020 bushfires, the strength of this island community and the speed at which the natural environment has been rehabilitating itself is inspiring.

Home to the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, the western end of the island including Flinders Chase National Park was decimated in the fires. However, the Kangaroo Island Fire Recovery Experience has since been created to provide walkers with a unique oppportunity. One that maintains the challenge, scenery and unique biodiversity of the original multi-day hike, but offers a fresh perspective. 

The famous Admiral’s Arch at Kangaroo Island. Image: Faye Martin

Coorong National Park

If you’ve got a weekend up your sleeve, then why not head down to the Coorong National Park. Just over three hours from the Adelaide CBD, this area of wetlands provides ample opportunities for fishing, camping, 4WDing, walking, boating and bird watching.

Camp out at the Coorong for the weekend. Image: Chris Newman

River adventures 

Murray River National Park

If you like the sound of serene wetlands, plenty of wildlife, birdwatching, hiking, canoeing and camping then the Murray River National Park will have you covered. Approximately three hours drive from the Adelaide CBD, this park is the perfect distance for a weekend getaway or a longer stay.

Camp and canoe to your heart’s content. Image: Chris Newman

Katarapko Creek

If you’re itching to get the kayaks out for a couple of days of paddling, then Katarapko Creek should be on your list. Aside from kayaking, you can head out and walk the trails in the area, jump on your bike and explore the roads within the park, or perhaps casting a line into the water is more your thing? Either way, you’ve got plenty of activities to keep you occupied.

Cruising through Katarapko creek. Image: Chris Newman

Chowilla Game Reserve

If you want to disconnect from the world and paddle all your worries away, a trip to the secluded Chowilla Game Reserve won’t disappoint. With diverse wildlife, a huge bird population and limited phone reception – you can immerse yourself in what nature has to offer without those pesky notifications interrupting the tranquillity.

The relaxing ebb and flow of the water will soothe your soul. Image: Travel Notes

Day hikes & overnighters 

If thoughts of getting away from it all and surrounding yourself in nature are what’s been pulling you through, then why not lace up your hikers and hit one of the many spectacular trails our Southern state boasts?

Mount Remarkable National Park

If you’re interested in a choice of hikes ranging from day trips to overnighters, Mount Remarkable National Park offers all that and more. With spectacular scenery and a rich prehistoric landscape plus excellent camping facilities if you’re keen to pitch the family tent, this popular spot provides terrific walks and hikes for people of all ages and abilities.

Pack your rucksack and head to Mt Remarkable. Image: Kelly-Anne Burgess

Victor Harbour day hikes

Another great spot for a weekend away is to drive down to Victor Harbour and spend your time exploring all the scenery on offer. For a couple of hours walk, try the Bluff and Granite Island, ride your bike along the Encounter Bikeway, or walk along the Waitpinga Cliffs while taking in the incredible view.

Victor in general is a fantastic place for families to visit and the range of activities available to entertain both kids and adults, have been enjoyed for generations past, present and undoubtedly all those to come.

Explore Victor Harbour on foot. Image: Chris Newman

Heysen Trail day hikes

Despite current circumstances keeping the overnight huts closed, you can still make a day of walking a section of the legendary Heysen Trail. In terms of half day and full day hikes, you could check out the Tanunda loop walk which conveniently take you past two wineries if you want to have a cheeky stop over, or take on the classic Mt Lofty loop walk which winds through the stunning Mt Lofty Botanic Gardens, Cleland Conservation Park and finally the Mt Lofty Summit.

Hike a section of the Heysen Trail. Image: Chris Newman

4WDing & road trips 

If you have a week to spare, then there are plenty of adventures that will give you view of the endless horizon that you’ve been craving.

Flinders Ranges

The iconic Flinders Ranges offer something for everyone whether it’s bushwalking, family camping, mountain biking or 4WDing. This huge national park includes the Heysen Range, Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorges, plus Wilpena Pound.  It’s around 5 hours drive from the Adelaide CBD and presents plenty of various accommodation choices – from camping and glamping, to hotels, pubs and resorts.

There is truly an option for every type of traveller who wants to scratch the itch and explore this region.

Take the whole family to the Flinders for your next camping trip.
Image: Dave Leslie

Gawler Ranges NP

If you want a 4WD escape that is perhaps a little less travelled, then the Gawler Ranges is the place you need to check out. Take your 4WD or 2WD and settle yourself in for a seven to eight-hour drive from Adelaide via Port Augusta and Kimba. It features extensive tracks and roads throughout the park, as well as rolling hills and magnificent ochre sunsets that you can experience without the crowds.

Enjoy the 4WD tracks and the picturesque scenery of the Gawler Ranges. Image: Chris Newman

Coober Pedy

If you enjoy longer drives then head to Coober Pedy to check out the mines, opals, underground churches and other quirky offerings that you can check out in the town.

Coober Pedy is a uniquely South Australian destination. Image: Sputnik

Nullarbor Plain

For those who are interested in a dedicated road trip, why not take on the iconic landscape of the Nullarbor Plain? Located along the Great Australian Bight Coast, start from Adelaide and make your way west along the Eyre Highway to truly experience solitude, open spaces and the chance to clear your head.

Nothing but the open road ahead of you. Image: Emma McPherson

Oodnadatta Track

For travellers who like adventures with a healthy dose of history, the Oodnadatta Track is the ultimate outback expedition. You can immerse yourself in the rich indigenous culture of the area, while checking out the Overland Telegraph Line, the Old Ghan Railway line and Lake Eyre – there’s so much to interest you along the way.

History, bush camping and outback adventure – the Oodnadatta has it all. Image: Barry Peters

Strzelecki Track

If you’ve always wanted to attempt a desert crossing, then the Strzelecki Track should be on your list. It starts out in Lyndhurst and ends in Innamincka with the best time to visit being from April to October. It’s a fairly remote track so you will need to carry enough supplies to last you most of the journey, and a 4WD is recommended.

If a desert crossing excites you, the Strzelecki Track won’t disappoint. Image: Top Wire Traveller

Birdsville Track

Another one of the great outback tracks for those who love a challenge is the Birdsville Track. This popular route originally opened all the way back in the 1860s, to transport cattle from the NT and Queensland down to South Australia. The track is well maintained so it’s possible navigate with a 2WD, however a 4WD is the best option. It starts in Maree which is 700km north of Adelaide, so best to allow the better part of a day to get there. Once on the track, your destination will land you in Birdsville.

Experience the arid desert landscape of the Birdsville Track. Image: Top Wire Traveller

What’s your favourite local spot in South Australia? 

The post Best of South Australia – Camping, Hiking, and 4WDing appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We’ve seen some pretty amazing campground and campsites. These are our Top 7 across SA.

Little Dip Conservation Park

The Little Dip Conservation Park was one of our very first stays in South Australia and it really set the tone for camping & caravanning in SA. We stayed in The Gums Campground, which was well laid out with great spacing between sites. From the campsite, we were able to visit Robe for a bit of sightseeing, shopping and relaxed beach days, but also drive along the 4WD tracks next to the beach for a bit of fishing and adventure.

Driving on the beach for the first time in Robe was a great experience. Suitable even for 2WD vehicles, you can spend the day relaxing by your car.

Rapid Bay Campground

This place is like a secret jewel of South Australian campsites, hidden deep in the Fleurieu Peninsula. But, it’s just over one and a half hours from Adelaide!

You can set up camp right on the beach, overlooking amazingly flat waters with views of the caves at one end and the jetty at the other.

It’s a pretty stunning location at Rapid Bay, with beautiful still waters.

The waters are full of southern calamari, which made up most of our meals while we were here. We also explored the caves, went for beach walks and swam daily in beautifully warm waters. In the evenings, this west-facing beach even provides stunning sunsets over the water.

Rapid Bay was one of the first times we camped right up on the beach. It was great for quick dips to cool down in the ocean.

Big 4 West Beach Caravan Park

This is a huge park, right in the heart of Adelaide, but it is so well done you just have to stay here. And most of the locals do! We were thrown by just how many people set up their caravans and then head home 5 to 10 minutes up the road, with this resort-style park offering so many amenities you can see why.

It’s spread out with a huge pool, water play park and of course direct entry to the magnificent West Beach which has huge sand dunes and some great fishing too.

A west-facing beach in South Australia? Yep, it exists and it’s beautiful!

Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park

We knew we had arrived somewhere special as a family of emus wandered past as we set up camp. Situated at the very bottom of ‘Yorkes’, this tip of the peninsula was once a gypsum mine. Today it’s a protected national park offering a great location to relax, do a spot of fishing and go on walks to shipwrecks and lighthouses.

We visited the local ranger at the information centre, and we were taken outside to learn of bush tucker and the lives of the local emus.

We were just setting up camp when a family of emus passed by. They are all around the Innes National Park.

Rawnsley Park Station

Rawnsley Park Station is a top park in the Wilpena Pound region. Looking up from the station, huge mountain ranges surround and they’re great to explore on foot, in the 4WD or even by air.

Wilpena Pound from the air was pretty special, but driving around on the 4WD tracks was a lot of fun too.

In the evenings, you can return to camp for a beer, chat and a swim in a great swimming pool. There are lots of well laid out campsites, multiple amenities and a great camp kitchen area.

Don’t try this at home, he’s a trained kid travelling Australia.

Rawnsley’s 4WD track takes you out and around the property. It’s a simple four-wheel drive track which allows for even novices to follow the trail. An interpretation map keeps you on track and informed on the various things to see along the way.

It’s a pretty simple 4WD track around Rawnsley Park Station, great for the first-timer.

Lipson Cove Campground

This campground is not far from Tumby Bay on the Eyre Peninsula, accessed via a long dirt road down to the beach between farmland. Upon arrival, as you roll up over the hill, you know you have reached somewhere extra ordinary.

The amazing view as you come out from between farmland and up over the last hill above Lipson Cove.

An island sits just off of the beach, and the campsites look out over them and the stunningly clear turquoise waters. Fish abound, accessed off the beach or at low tide sneaking over to the island by foot. We watched dolphins frolic right out in front of us in the water and fished the days and nights away. There are plenty of whiting out there too!

A short drive into Tumby Bay allows you to explore the street art and enjoy some great fish and chips by the foreshore.

The fish weren’t biting at Tumby Bay so we cheated with a quick trip into the fish & chip shop across the street.

Perlubie Beach Campground

We’ve saved the best until last with Perlubie Beach, just along from the stunning Streaky Bay up the top of the Eyre Peninsula. You can camp right on the beach, next to a designated beach hut or further up along the sand.

These structures give you a resort feel down on Perlubie Beach.

Often a low tide aligns with the stunning sunsets, providing a staircase to the moon type views for your happy hour drinks. There are heaps of whiting and blue swimmer crabs in the shallow waters out front, perfect to load up on from the beach or by boat. We were fortunate to meet a travelling family who had a tinny on board, so out we caught some great dinners and lunches each day.

The Perlubie Beach sunsets are still some of the best we’ve seen around Australia.

There are so many great campgrounds, national parks, station stays and caravan parks in South Australia, it was hard to narrow it down to only 7 top spots for this list.

Did we miss one? Please let us know in the comments below. Make sure you give us your Top 7 too! (who are you leaving out?)

The post Top 7 Caravan & Camping Sites in South Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

35 people and 20 kayaks in the Murray River National Park is a recipe for a splendid two-night trip of relaxing, paddling, and plenty of fun.

The initial plan was to paddle through Eckert Creek and The Splash, located in the upper reaches of the Katarapko section of the Murray River National Park. However, construction works meant that some of those waterways were bone dry… and therefore missing one of the fundamental requirements of kayaking.

Instead, we chose to explore Katarapko Creek to the south, launching at Lock 4 and travelling downstream to finish at Milich’s Landing near Loxton.

We unloaded and set up the kayaks on the spacious lawn area at Lock 4.

Day 1

The trip commenced upstream from Lock 4, where we unloaded boats from the trailers onto the grassed area next to the carpark and set about packing all our food, water, and sleeping gear. Those with previous kayaking experience finished packing far quicker than the first-timers, who desperately crammed in their gear, meanwhile discovering how precise you have to be to properly pack a kayak.

The lockmaster had scheduled a time for us to pass through, so with a few minutes to spare we managed to get the twenty kayaks launched and into the lock. Everyone rafted together as the water drained out to the downstream level. It felt exciting to embark as the lock gates opened, giving a glimpse of the Murray River ahead. The weather was cool, with a few clouds in the sky – a perfect day for cruising.

The first leg of the journey after passing through Lock 4. Bright sunny weather followed us for the whole trip (almost).

The Intersection of the Murray and Katarapko Creek

We soon reached the intersection of the Murray and Katarapko Creek, about three kilometres downstream of Lock 4, where we branched off onto the smaller waterway. The first kilometres of any trip always involve little adjustments to get comfortable with your chosen mode of transport: boots and rucksack when hiking, or the car seat and radio when driving.

Kayaking was no different, and shouts and splashes came from all directions as people attempted to adjust their kayaks while still on the water – a recipe for becoming drenched or capsizing! The safer option was to put up with some discomfort until we made our first stop, where the rudder pedals and seats could be adjusted.

The sandy beach made a great lunch spot on Day 1, after clearing Stone Weir, the Katarapko regulator. This is a few of the twenty or so kayaks on the trip.

Stopping for Lunch

After porting the kayaks around Stone Weir, we found a sandy beach with a large shallow bank to land the kayaks and eat lunch. Out came a variety of camping staples – the usual sandwiches and wraps – as well as some finer delicacies like fresh salad greens and even a small filtered coffee machine. I had forgotten that heavier foods are as readily carried as lighter foods in a kayak, especially on a short trip, and was envious of all the gourmands among the group as I tucked into my 2-minute chicken noodles.

The bright sunshine warmed the air and most of us felt like an afternoon snooze after the morning’s exertions. Eventually, everyone hustled to hop back into the boats and get going to find our campsite for the night.

Look out for snags! Not the BBQ kind – there are plenty of fallen trees waiting to upturn an unsuspecting kayaker.

Camping for the Night

Finding a campsite big enough for twenty or so tents wasn’t as challenging as expected. We made a fire to ward off the cold while the sun disappeared behind the scrub and the chill moved through the air. Some of us wanted to refresh by swimming in the creek, which was very fresh indeed, and we were thankful for the fire to warm back up afterwards.

The night was peaceful, with occasional noise from cars passing along the highway in the distance, and the Milky Way had incredible clarity among the stars.

With no cloud cover, the first night was chilly, without a breath of wind.

Day 2

In the morning we breakfasted, broke camp, and re-packed the kayaks, all with surprising efficiency for such a large group. Once on the water, the sun came out and presented a glorious early-morning Murray River scene, with prolific birdlife amongst the tall gums standing along the banks.

Our camp setup for the first night, inside the Murray River National Park

There’s not really much to say about paddling down this slow-flowing creek – therein lies the beauty of kayaking as a chance to relax and reconnect. Apart from passing comments on the weather or asking whether your boat was full of water yet, most of the group enjoyed the solitude and meditated on the motion of paddling.

Kayaking is a chance to enjoy the solitude of the beautiful Murray, and meditate on the movements of paddling.

The Facilities Provided by NPWS SA

At lunch, we met up with our support car and made use of the facilities provided by NPWS SA at the Katarapko camping grounds. There was an old rope swing hanging from a tree nearby the campsite, so those who braved the cold water provided an entertaining spectacle for the rest of us. The weather had become overcast and quite humid. We set off again after an extended lunch break.

One young lad decided to launch straight off the steep bank and became a submarine for a short time before reappearing back on the surface with a small fish in his kayak. Fortunately, a bilge pump was at hand, supplied by one of the experienced mentors on the trip whose advice and helpful hints we were grateful for over the weekend.

The armada takes to the water after lunch on the second day of paddling.

Arriving at the Campsite

We cruised past the many vehicle-based campers in the Katarapko section who must have thought an armada was going down the river, as we waved at them from our 20 bright orange boats. Our group leader had told us there was only a short distance to cover after lunch, but none of us had realised quite how short. We launched the boats, paddled downstream for what felt like a few minutes and arrived at the campsite for the night.

Some others and I chose to continue exploring some side-branches of the creek further downstream before returning to camp. The air was still with not a hint of wind, and it looked like the bows of our kayaks were cutting through a mirrored glass surface.

Back at camp, the others had already started a campfire to cook dinner on, and sleeping that night was a lot warmer due to the dense cloud cover overhead.

Camped for the second night in Murray River National Park. We greeted several vehicle-based campers as we passed them by before reaching our booked camping spot.

Day 3

The next day we packed up leisurely and continued downstream through the southern section of Katarapko. We passed a couple of small islands in the middle of the river that were densely vegetated with reeds and gums.

We had a relaxing weekend of paddling in Murray River National Park. 

Reaching the End of Katarapko Creek

At the end of Katarapko Creek, reaching our destination of Milich’s Landing necessitated crossing a wide and exposed section of the Murray, which the wind had whipped up to be quite choppy.

It was the only challenging bit of paddling of the whole trip. Everyone arrived at the Landing slightly damp and windblown, yet satisfied with their relaxing and peaceful weekend getaway on the river.

What’s your favourite local waterway to paddle? 

The post Kayaking Katarapko Creek in Murray River NP, SA appeared first on Snowys Blog.

It passes such features as Rocky River, the wild Southern Ocean, Cape du Couedic Lighthouse and Remarkable Rocks. At times the Wilderness Trail can be rough with lots of rocky surfaces to walk over as you pass through low scrubby areas of vegetation. And other times you are going through beautiful eucalyptus forests.

This trail takes you along the Southern Ocean, and beautiful eucalyptus forests.

The beginning of the walk

My wife and I had the obligatory photo taken at the gate you go through at the beginning of the walk and then we headed off. At first, the trail is well maintained and takes you past some waterholes where if you are patient it is possible to see a platypus.

We waited with several other people, but it was in vain, so we decided to keep moving. Other walkers we met, later on, said they had better luck and got some great shots.

The trail takes you along the soft sand of the beach. 

The first section

The first section you pass through are forests of Eucalyptus and Mallee, and if you are there in spring then we were told many wildflowers would be in bloom.

There are lots of wildlife and birds, but you have to keep your eyes peeled as they are pretty shy. We also went past a rocky outcrop called the cascades which were supposed to be very scenic, if there was water in them.

We did see a wild pig at a rest stop which didn’t hang around. They are a pest, and there were many signs of where they were digging into the ground causing a lot of damage as they searched for food.

This is an example of the typical track surface you’ll be walking on.

Cup Gum campsite

The first day is only about four hours walk and finishes at Cup Gum Campsite. The facilities at each of the campsites are excellent. Here we had a choice of raised platforms or sand pads for the tent to be erected on. Although at the other camps there were only sand pads.

The shelter has several large tables and a stainless steel bench for cooking on, as well as a sink and taps powered by a pump and filtered water, (although it was still advised to treat the water before drinking).

The end of the first day finishes at the Cup Gum Campsite.

Shelters and facilities available

There were also solar powered lights that came on as it got dark, which were also in the toilets. There are stainless steel basins in the toilets with a tap as well, also connected to a pump. They look brand new, and since every camp is accessible by a service road, they are cleaned almost every day. These were the best shelters I have ever seen in my many years of walking and camping.

One of the best parts of walking holidays is meeting other walkers and sharing experiences. The comradery in the camps was great, with everybody friendly and easy to talk to.

The shelters had excellent facilities. 

The second day of the walk

The next day we started heading to the coast along the Rocky River until it meets the sea. We then walked along the cliff tops with the wild foaming sea below. The views along this part of the coast are spectacular. We stopped many times to try and capture it on our cameras.

At one point you descend to Maupertuis Beach and walk along its soft sand. This was quite hard as the sand was really soft. We did try to walk closer to the water’s edge looking for harder sand but often had to make a run for it when a wave came rushing in.

Eventually, you’ll descend to the soft sand of Maupertuis Beach. 

In the end, we found walking in other people’s footprints was the best way. So long as you found someone with the same stride you would be fine.

After about a kilometre we went back up to the cliff tops and continued there for the rest of the day. The surface of the track here is pretty rough, consisting of mainly broken limestone. This was a bit hard on the feet and legs as you have to step over never-ending rocks and small boulders.

In the distance, you can see the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse. It gets closer each time you come over a small ridge, but it is never reached as the track turns inland about 2km before it and shortly after that, you arrive at the Hakea Campground.

Linda and I at the mouth of the Rocky River.

Keeping your gear clean and dry

My only criticism of the campsites is the lack of any sort of raised platform to sit a backpack on that is close to the tent. Since the tent sites are sand it means whatever you put on the ground risks getting dirty.

It may only be a small thing, but most walkers like to keep their gear as clean as they can when sometimes washing opportunities are limited. We found by putting our rain covers over the harness we could lay our packs on the ground face up therefore not getting anything dirty and still accessing our gear from the packs.

Packs at rest.

The weather conditions

The weather overall was fairly good, with cool days and on the first two days, we had some light drizzly rain that was more annoying than anything.

We did get some rain on our first night though, otherwise, we had reasonably good weather for the entire trip.

We had reasonably good weather on our hike. 

The third day of our hike

Our third day went inland and curved around towards the South coast of the island coming out at Remarkable Rocks.

For me, this was the most boring section of the trail as it went through thick scrub that didn’t allow any views anywhere. All you could see was thick scrub.

It was good to finally come out at the coast and take the side trail to Remarkable Rocks where we caught up with some of the others and were able to eat lunch while looking around this impressive natural feature.

We still had about 4km to go so we loaded up again and went back in the scrub, for only a little bit, then back out to the coast where we continued along more impressive cliff tops.

Having a rest at Remarkable Rocks.

Banksia campground

Our third camp was called Banksia Campground with the usual great facilities. There was plenty of conversations around the cooking tables as we discussed the pros and cons of everybody’s different setups and walking experiences.

This was our coldest night with the temperature going down to about 4 degrees, and the next morning everybody had their flysheets hanging on trees and bushes trying to dry the condensation off before we packed them away.

A much easier section of the trail. 

The next day

We continued on from Banksia firstly toward the coast then back inland. The terrain was changing now with the limestone giving way to smoother sections where walking was much easier. We were now going through more open forests rather than thick scrub.

We knew we were getting closer to Hanson Bay Beach as we started to hear waves crashing ashore, but where was it. It can be a little frustrating when you know you are close to something but just can’t seem to get there.

Hopping aboard the boat. 

Crossing the river

We knew up ahead there was a small river we had to cross using a boat with a rope attached to pull ourselves over, but it seemed to take forever to reach it. This was going to be our lunch stop and we were getting hungry.

Finally, there it was. A small boat for one person and their pack at a time to cross. We watched some of the others go first as we had our final lunch break on the trail.

We then took turns to cross over and left our packs with some of the others just off the trail and walked the 300 meters down to the beach. It was almost deserted with a few small cabins on the other side of the beach that were able to be hired out.

We returned to pick up our packs and in about half an hour we were at our final camp, Tea Tree Campsite.

Crossing the South West River.

The final night – Tea Tree campsite

It was a lovely sunny afternoon, and everybody sat around soaking it up until the sun went down. Then the night chill started to come in and everybody started preparing their final dinner of the walk.

It was another chilly night and more tent fly’s had to be dried before we could head on our way. This was our last day and it was only about 7 kilometres to go.

The last section of the trail

This last section of the trail went through eucalyptus forests and past lagoons where there was some bird life, but you would have needed a good lens for your camera as the birds were all across the other side several hundred meters away.

It only took us about two hours to do this last part, and then we were at the finish at Kelly Hill Caves. I set up my camera on a timer and took our photo as we went past the sign that said we had completed the walk.

A side trip to Admirals Arch.

Services on the trail

Part of the fee you pay to do the walk covers a cave tour. It was a bit disappointing to realise we’d missed the tour that the other walkers we were with went on, as we were last to arrive. Still, we saw them when they came out of the caves and we were able to say our goodbyes.

From the caves, we contacted the campground where we left the car and they came to pick us up. Because the Wilderness Trail is not a circuit, arrangements have to be made to be picked up when you finish. National Parks can offer this service as well as several other resorts and campgrounds.

Reaching the end of the trail.

Fitness and gear you’ll need

The Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail is an enjoyable walk with varied terrain and fantastic scenery. It can also be done as a series of day walks with pickups by arrangement at each campsite, or car shuffling to some of the public car parks along the way.

You would need to have a reasonable amount of fitness as you will be walking about 13km each day except for the last day when it is only 7km.

You’ll need to be quite fit, as you’ll be walking on sand. 

Good boots are essential because of the rocky surface. Some may prefer walking shoes, however, don’t bother with lighter footwear.

For fees and up to date information contact the information centre at Flinders Chase National Park, so get out there, and enjoy.

Is the KI Wilderness Trail on your list of hikes to do?

The post Walking the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail in SA appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Victor Harbor is about a one-hour drive from Adelaide and is fairly quiet unless you visit in the peak holiday periods when parking can become a hassle.

Most of these walks have been completed by a family with three young children, and are perfect for a day out or weekend away.

The Bluff and Granite Island

Time it takes

Allow for 1-2 hours each + 1 hour via Encounter Bay (one way).

The track conditions

The conditions are easy as it follows formed gravel trails and paved footpaths.

The iconic Granite Island causeway.

Details of the track

The Bluff offers splendid views of Encounter Bay and the Southern Ocean, and of course, no trip to Victor Harbor would be complete without a jaunt across the causeway to Granite Island. Both attractions can be visited in a single day, either driving between them or linked together with a walk along sleepy Encounter Bay.

The view from the Bluff, overlooking Encounter Bay.

The Kaiki Walk is a popular loop around Granite Island and is accessed via the causeway in the centre of Victor Harbor township. You can also take the old horse-drawn tram one or both ways for the novelty or to shorten the trip! The loop is varied enough to be interesting, with enormous granite boulders, little birds and wildlife, and places to sit and relax or spot some almighty waves crashing onto the Southern side of the island.

Petrel Cove, Kings Beach and the Waitpinga Cliffs as seen from the Bluff. 

Strolling along the esplanade at Encounter Bay is a pleasant walk in itself, and also a good way to get between Granite Island and the Bluff if you’re feeling energetic (don’t forget about the walk back though). The Bluff, or Rosetta Head, is a shorter but slightly more adventurous trip than Granite Island, and with no shelter from the Southern Ocean, things can get very windy on some days. There are great views of the cliffs to the west, the township of Encounter Bay to the north-east, as well as West Island, Wright Island and Seal Rock out to sea.

The Encounter Bikeway

Time it takes

It will take you 2-3 hours or more.

The track conditions

This track has paved footpaths or sand (the beach).

The Encounter Bikeway sometimes runs adjacent to the Cockle Train line.

Details of the track

The entire coast from Victor Harbor to Goolwa can be walked or cycled along the 30km Encounter Bikeway. While some sections can be a little mundane, others provide the opportunity for a relaxing day out. The Encounter Bikeway is easily accessible via road and the major townships in the area.

A good afternoon walk (~12km return) is from Victor to Port Elliot, beginning at the Hindmarsh River. Parking is available along Bridge Terrace and the trail begins by crossing the river. You have the choice of following the Bikeway along the road for a few km or taking the boardwalk to the beach. It’s worth going all the way along the beach to the rocks at Knight’s Beach, but if the sand becomes a bit strenuous then take one of the many wooden staircases up the cliffs, crossing the railway line to meet the Encounter Bikeway which on some sections is just the road.

Even along the road, the walking is delightful. You go past the seaside holiday homes of Hayborough, and on a fine sunny day, you can see up and down the coast and the pristine surf beach at Chiton Rocks.

The beach always provides something unusual, no matter rain or shine.

Once at Port Elliot, have a cuppa or late lunch and return to Victor Harbor via the same route. Another option is to hop aboard the iconic Cockle Train from Port Elliot Railway Station.

The train runs at various times during the year, and takes around 15 minutes back to the station at Victor Harbor, followed by a 1km walk back to Bridge Terrace where you left your car.

Park with the surfers along Surfers Parade, and walk in Tokuremoar Reserve and back along the beach. 

A great evening walk is Tokuremoar Reserve, located at the eastern end of Middleton, with parking available at several places along Surfers Parade. Follow the Bikeway along the road until it turns inland through the quiet coastal scrub, and at the Goolwa end take Knightly Road and Reed Place back to the beach, which is usually firm and easy to walk along to return to Surfers Parade.

Sunset at the wetland of Tokuremoar Reserve.

Waitpinga Cliffs

Time it takes

2-3 hours return to Kings Head (or overnight to Waitpinga Beach)

the track conditions

Easy walking on formed trails until Kings Head, which becomes moderately difficult with sand, rock and steep inclines in Newland Head CP.

The Heysen Trail goes right along the top of Waitpinga Cliffs.

Details of the track

Waitpinga Cliffs offer a spectacular coastal cliff walk close to Adelaide. A good day out can be had by starting at the carpark at Petrel Cove on the western side of the Bluff and following the Victor Harbor Heritage Trail which winds along the cliff and descends a few times to the beach, with some brief walking on the soft sand.

At Kings Beach Road the path becomes the Heysen Trail and crosses some small gullies that have been fenced off to keep the sheep out of the ocean, and then descends to Kings Beach.

The entrance to Newland Head Conservation Park is over a fence using a typical Heysen Trail style.

Upon rounding the point at King Head you suddenly get a grand view of the tall Waitpinga Cliffs, and a well-placed bench to sit on to appreciate the view. King Head would be a good destination for a short day walk or continue for another hour or so into Newland Head Conservation Park to the picnic table and look out back toward the Bluff.

In the Conservation Park, the trail gets into dense coastal eucalypt scrub and winds slightly inland past farmland before reaching the lookout.

Coastal Eucalypt forest along the Waitpinga Cliffs.

There is an option to turn this route into a comfortable overnight walk (~25km return), by hiking out and staying overnight at Waitpinga Beach (with campsites, toilets, shelters) before returning via the same route to Petrel Cove the next day.

After the lookout, the Heysen trail becomes rocky and passes through low coastal scrub.

Goolwa Beach and Murray Mouth

Time it takes

It will take 4 hours (approx. 12km return)

the track conditions

This track involves informal beach walking with sand and mud.

Walking along the firm sand at the western end of Goolwa Beach.

Details of the track

Goolwa Beach and the Sir Richard Peninsula are located at the northern end of the Coorong, a globally significant coastal lagoon and wetland system which begins at the Murray Mouth and runs 200km south to the Limestone Coast. A hike to the Murray Mouth along Goolwa Beach is a somewhat uncommon but rewarding experience. Most people choose to drive down, however, it’s definitely still possible to get there if you don’t have access to a 4WD vehicle or just prefer to walk.

From Goolwa take the road past the Goolwa Barrage to Beacon 19 Boat Ramp, with parking available at the end. Here you can follow the bank of the Murray River toward the Mouth, which could be a muddy trudge depending on the level of water in the river. A better option is to cross the dunes on the informal footpath, and then walk along the ocean beach until reaching the Mouth. Return to the car the same way, unless you bought your inflatable dingy.

These dunes continue for 200km south through the Coorong, and further.

This trip can be quite strenuous because of the soft sand and the need to keep a close eye if you have kids. Goolwa Beach is actually a gazetted road and can be very popular over summer with many vehicles travelling to and from the Mouth.

­­At the Mouth you can see the dunes of the Coorong stretching away into the salt-mist, and the waves of the Southern Ocean trying to hold back the flow of fresh water from the Murray. It makes a great spot to relax and have lunch.

Goolwa Beach becomes very popular on public holidays and during the summer months.

The bird life is abundant with plenty of pelicans if the fishermen are out. Swimming on the riverside is cold and refreshing, and you could try doing the ‘pipi twist’ and catching some Goolwa cockles on the walk back. Cockles aren’t just fish bait, and are actually quite tasty – a bit like calamari – if prepared correctly!

Victor Harbor is an ideal destination to get away from the bustle of Adelaide. it has plenty of options for half-day, day or even overnight walks along the beautiful southern coastline. ­_­­

What’s your favourite local SA hike?

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Blue sky and red dirt – a typical Gawler Ranges scene.

How to get there

The Gawler Ranges are located north of Minnipa at the very top of the Eyre Peninsula, signposted off the highway after a seven to eight-hour drive from Adelaide via Port Augusta and Kimba. Of course, access on the unsealed roads is more comfortable in a 4WD vehicle, but the family sedan will get around most of the park on the Old Paney Scenic Route without any trouble.

As long as you time your trip to avoid heavy rain, which turns the clay tracks in the park to slush, going in late winter or spring is a great time to see the area burst into colour with wildflowers and bird life.

While known as a 4WD destination, the family Commodore or soft-roader should have no problem in dry weather.

On the way in, it’s worth stopping off at Pildappa Rock. This is an enormous granite outcrop with an interesting scramble to the top and great views to the North of the Gawler Ranges. Keep an eye out for what looks like mysterious rock ruins all around the northern boundary; these are the remains of gutters which were part of a water harvesting scheme in the 1920s.

An alternative entry to the park is via Wudinna and the National Park Headquarters at Paney Homestead.

Pildappa – an unusual granite intrusion, worth a stop.

Heritage

The area has a rich pastoral heritage, with several pastoral stations amalgamating since the 1860s before finally being set aside as the Gawler Ranges National Park in 2002. The relatively recent declaration of the park is evident, with native vegetation and grasslands still regenerating after a few hundred years of grazing by sheep and kangaroos. The park is currently co-managed with the Gawler Ranges Aboriginal Corporation.

Encounter with Skippy…again – some would say there are now too many Kangaroos in the Gawlers.

The old Pondanna Outstation, located a short drive from Yardea Road on the Loop Track, is a substantially built stone house with plenty of interesting heritage. We had a good nose around the garden and sheds and spotted where the vegetable patch would have been. We also saw the well and underground water tank system, various agricultural implements and even the vintage (and possibly still in use) dunny.

There are information boards with details of the families who lived here and station life. It’s fascinating to think about being here a hundred years ago when ‘luxury’ goods like soap and leather boots were sold by a travelling pedlar who only visited a few times a year. The house has now been fully restored by the Friends of the Gawler Ranges and it’s possible to book and stay here by contacting the Friends on 0437 586 725.

Pondanna Outstation – 50km to the nearest highway, imagine living here in the horse and cart days of 1849.

What to do

The park offers plenty of activities in the way of natural and geological heritage, and most of the points of interest are accessed on short walking trails.

• We visited the famous Organ Pipes one afternoon, but the sun had already gone behind the hills, so the lighting was very dull. Visit these ancient volcanic formations in the morning to see them in all their splendour.
• Explore for pools of water at Kolay Mirica Falls. This is accessed via a short walk from a car park near the Loop Track.
• Amble around the old ruins, water tanks and channels and discover artefacts from the Park’s previous pastoral life.

Plenty of wildlife in the Ranges – Echidnas, Budgies, Kangaroos.

Wildlife spotting

• Take binoculars and try spotting the myriad threatened bird species living in the dense scrub and spikey bushes.
• Look out for lots of wildlife and the stampedes of kangaroos.
• Slowly cruise the red dirt roads throughout the park. Vehicle touring is at more of a gentle pace than serious low-range work, but some of the hill climbs might keep you on your toes.

Plenty of options for bushwalking to points and peaks of interest.

Informal bushwalking

• There aren’t many N.P.W.S marked walking trails, but plenty of options exists for informal bushwalking around the park. Some of the small peaks make for good evening hikes after dinner, such as Mt Fairview. This can be accessed from the campground at Chillunie.
• Or just climb up a hill wherever you’re camping to watch the sunset and perhaps stay a bit longer for an unhindered view of stars all the way to the horizon.

Pastel Sunset from Scrubby Peak Campground.

Where to camp

The SA National Parks and Wildlife Service provides a choice of six camping areas in the park, with varying levels of facilities such as toilets and fire pits, and you can book online here.

Three of the campgrounds are 2WD access (Scrubby Peak, Waganny and Yandinga), while the others are 4WD recommended (Chillunie, Mattera and Kolay Hut). All have separate fenced sites and are well organised and set apart, giving plenty of space to avoid the neighbours.

Fairly self-explanatory unless you’ve just decided to stay and have no phone coverage.

On our trip we stayed for three nights, moving to a different campsite each night to keep it interesting. Scrubby Peak campsite was quiet and amongst dense mallee trees, Mattera was more open with plenty of space to run around, and Chillunie alongside a dry creek and plateau close to the base of Mt Fairview. Apart from the first night, we only saw a few other vehicles during the day and camped at night by ourselves, enjoying the breathtaking quiet and magnificent stars.

The late autumn weather – we went in May – was pleasant and cool. While there was absolutely no water around, the plains were greening up coming into winter. With a bit of imagination, they looked almost like a lush African savannah, complete with swathes of hopping kangaroos.

The Savannah – some parts of the Gawlers had a definite African Plains look about them. 

Supplies & self-sufficiency

The park is fairly remote, so travellers should carry all required water, food, fuel, and firewood if visiting outside of the fire danger season. For more information on how to be self-sufficient when you camp, check out this article here. A flat tire is more likely than an extreme bogging, so leave the winch and traction aids at home and go ‘old school prepared’ with a jack, two spare tires and long-handled shovel.

The nearest town is Minnipa on the A1. This has a general store selling fuel and basic foodstuffs, or there is a supermarket 40km down the road at Wudinna.

Crossroads.

The appeal of the Gawler Ranges National Park lies in the solitude and quiet beauty of the landscape. You’re also able to go at your own pace without the convoys and crowds like the other Ranges in South Australia. The Gawlers are ‘out of the way’, with enough heritage and natural wonders to make a visit well worthwhile.

Have you explored the Gawler Ranges?

The post Outback Guide to the Gawler Ranges appeared first on Snowys Blog.

There are many things that draw big crowds to this southern city; stunning wineries, great walks, mountain ranges, wildflowers and, of course, a coastline like no other.

It might be icy, but it’s hard to resist the crystal clear water, the promise of an ocean feed and the potential to swim with some salty sea creatures.

From Adelaide, the Fleurieu Peninsula is most accessible with the other two peninsulas taking a fair bit more travel time. Don’t get the impression you can see all this in a week’s holiday.

Swim in the clear blue waters when visiting SA.

Fleurieu Peninsula

Deep Creek Conservation Park – Boat Harbour Beach and hike

Camp the night at the Tapanappa Campground (book online), a short walk from the tent you’ll see amazing views from the top of the rolling hills stretching out to Boat Harbour Beach and beyond. There are two ways to get to the beach, one is a 7.5km hike, the other is a short drive and 200m super steep walk. We took the hike and it was beautiful.

The hike takes you through a couple of valleys and ever-changing scenery. One moment it’s wet underfoot and you’re deep in a fern forest, and the next it’s dry and a lace monitor will be leading you down the crumbly track.

The beach is only small but it is frequented by a very large pod of dolphins. And you can take it all in without making the last and hardest ascent, sitting on top of the hill.

Hike through the greenery to get to the beach.

Rapid Bay – Second Valley – Carrickalinga

There are a lot of secret spots between Rapid Bay and Carickalinga: rockpools, secluded beaches and great fishing. Take a kayak or a SUP and make your way around the headlands. Take a picnic and take your time. Squid is a popular feed in the area and you will have most luck from your kayak or SUP over the weed beds.

Head to Rapid Bay and along the way, you’ll discover so much.

Kangaroo Island

We love Kangaroo Island. Head on over here to read all about it, including a 7-day itinerary.

Sellicks Beach

A popular city beach that you can drive on, and is accessible to most cars, including 2WD. It is the perfect place to set up for the day. The ocean is calm and it’s blue contrasts against the carved orange cliffs that peel down toward the beach.

Hopefully, you will catch the local family taking their goat for a walk, cause that’s the kind of thing that will only happen in Adelaide.

You can drive on the sand at Sellicks Beach. 

Yorke Peninsula

Port Julia

Oh, ocean, you wonderful provider! We stood on the jetty at Port Julia and we literally watched the crabs walk into our pot. Within an hour we had more than enough to share around. There’s a council run campground a block back from the beach that’s affordable and has toilet facilities.

The Yorke Peninsula Council has a range of camping options and you can pay for a week and camp at any of their campgrounds, mix and match. We could have stayed here for weeks and lived off crab and squid.

Fish for crab and squid off the jetty at Port Julia.

Innes National Park – Dolphin Bay

Innes National Park has a lot to offer. On one side the limestone cliffs drop dramatically into the ocean and the waves ramp up with terrifying force, but over to the west, you’ll find small bays with inviting smooth water and protected rock pools.

Dolphin Bay was just one of our favourites and Shell Beach Campsite is only a few hundred metres away.

There is so much on offer in Innes National Park. 

Point Turton – Ocean Pool

This one was such a good find. Not far from the Len Barker Reserve Council campground you will find this breathtaking spot for a dip and a good place for snorkelling. There is a concrete walkway out into the water and a ladder, just like you’d find at your local pool. It would be rude not to jump in.

Take a dip into the cool waters of the ocean pool in Point Turton.

Port Broughton

This one is another of our favourite fishing spots. The locals in town are super friendly and we would highly recommend the small caravan park at the northern end of town, where you can watch the sunset over the water. If you have a boat, this place will be even better.

Not far out, along the channels running parallel to the markers you’ll find salmon, King George Whiting and blue swimmer crabs.

On low tide, the shallow weed beds become more accessible if you’re keen to wade around and pull up some razorfish.

When the tide is low, you can try and catch some Razorfish. 

Chinaman Creek, Winninowie Conservation Park

Okay, get ready for some serious talking. The caretaker here knows how to spin a yarn. If you have been here before you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. He does an awesome job taking care of the place and is more than happy to lend you a hand, or some fishing gear.

The creek here winds toward the Flinders Ranges and offers kilometres of exploration. Once again we stumbled on another great place for crabs, and dolphins often swim these waters. Chinaman Creek is an oasis in the desert.

Our bounty of abalone. 

Eyre Peninsula

Louth Bay

If you’re keen to take it back a notch, take some long walks on the beach and wind down, then look no further than this sleepy town. A short drive from Louth Bay is Point Boston that boasts excellent swimming on both the northern and southern side.

To access the beach on the southern side you may need to walk the 4WD tracks as they are often cut off to vehicles, but you will most likely be rewarded with a beach all to yourself.

September Beach, Port Lincoln National Park

Port Lincoln has a few different campsites but I’d suggest finding somewhere between Spalding Cove and Surfleet Cove for protection from the wind and amazing views. Check out September Beach and try rock hopping your way around the coast toward Carcase Rock.

There are plenty of places to jump in and a really nice bay only 100m from the main beach. Dolphins and seals love this area.

The secluded Memory Cove is worth the drive. 

Memory Cove

It’s a fair journey to Memory Cove, and you’ll need a 4WD. Signs say it will take you an hour to get there but let me tell you, it’s going to take a whole lot longer. Numbers are limited into Memory Cove (which makes this spot even better) and you’ll need to get the access key from Port Lincoln Visitor Information Centre.

It’s a peaceful spot, stunning water, and has good fishing just off the rocks.

This insta-famous spot is well worth the visit. 

Point Brown Rock Pool, Smoky Bay

This little spot just got crazy with Instagrammers. A perfect little pool carved out of granite. When you pull up at the headland at Point Brown and go to walk down at the pool you won’t be able to see it and if you’re like us you’ll probably feel defeated straight away. But keep walking down and there she is.

Camp out on the dunes at Tractor Beach. 

Tractor Beach

Abalone. Oh, so many Abalone just offshore. Tractor Beach is delicious. There are so many tracks in the dunes to camp if you are self-contained. Granites around the corner offer up another lovely rock pool and a small surf break

Get out there and explore SA

There are so many places I could list off here but I’ve just kept to our favourites for swimming, fishing and camping. Get out there and explore.

There are just a whole bunch of cosy little towns with friendly people, quirky sites and wild history. And just about every town claims to have the best bakery so why not test them all out for yourself.

How many of the three peninsulas in South Australia have you explored?

The post The Best of South Australia’s 3 Peninsulas appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The stream of 4WDs flicking on the indicator is a pretty good signal to follow them into Farina. Home to a now-famous temporary bakery and crumbling historic ruins of a once bustling railway town.

The historic ruins of the outback town, Farina. 

Do you need a 4WD for this trip?

The entire stretch between Maree and Lyndhurst has now been bitumenised which makes Farina more accessible. You may not need a 4WD but wherever you are it’s always a good idea to ask advice from the locals to avoid getting stuck.

Spectacular desert region sunrise is a bonus for the early riser.

Feast on the history

Open between late May and July the bakery has new premises this year, Patterson House. Recently completed it’s set amongst the ruins of the original township.

The famous underground Scotch oven where the goods are baked. 

The building won’t only house the café and retail outlet for hordes of tourists and visiting school groups, it is to include a library, museum and information centre.

There is no shortage of crumbling historic ruins to wander through in various stages of repair.

Once a busy railway town and now a ghost town, Farina’s residents suffered from the region’s low rainfall and harsh temperatures. The final straw for most was when pubs and other businesses closed their doors and eventually, the railway relocated west in 1980.

Living history can be found at Farina.

A stable future

Farina Station is still operating, but it is the Farina Restoration Group established by Tom Harding in 2008 that is keeping the township on the tourist map.

Teams of volunteers work tirelessly 8 weeks a year, and when they set up the onsite winter camp a lively buzz returns to the place.

Almost done, volunteers complete the work on Patterson House in readiness for its opening.

The program has grown in popularity and a decade on, in 2018, 205 participants donated 18,138 volunteer hours.

The group’s objective, to restore Farina’s past and ensure it retains a place in Australia’s outback history has been achieved.

Visitors will no longer need to visit the temporary café with the completion of Patterson House.

Restoring and maintaining Farina

Duties are varied and may include being on the tools or educating visitors about the work underway. There is also a roster to help behind the counter in the busy retail bakery and merchandise store. Volunteer skills range from rookie to professional and two paid stonemasons lead the restoration efforts using lime mortar and cement.

The volunteers work very hard to maintain and restore the town. 

There’s also a waiting list of bakers keen to assist to raise funds to support the group’s ongoing involvement with the restoration project.

As popular as the pasties, pies and freshly baked bread is a tour of the underground woodfired Scotch oven. Revived after lying dormant for almost 100 years this is the heart of the operation.

The starry skies of Farina at night. 

Overnight success

For those keen to explore further, the shady campground is past the township and under the war memorial. If you do decide to stay, make sure you place a pre-paid order for fresh bread to collect in the morning. The best way to avoid disappointment as the limited stocks have been known to run out early.

A shady campground has loads of space, there is no need to pre-book unless you are a large group.

Camping facilities available

Five dollars per person per night gives you access to BBQs, wood-fired donkey showers and flushing loos. You can bring your own firewood or buy some from your hosts at Farina Station to use in one of the many fire pits.

BYO firewood or buy some from your hosts at Farina Station to use in the firepits.

Get a history lesson at the war memorial hill

The war memorial hill is perfect for stargazing and uninterrupted landscape views. The well-researched information boards share background on the local young men and women who served their country in both WWI and WWII.

The information boards provide details on the local men and women who served Australia in WWI and WWII.

The short loop walking track

There’s a well-signed short loop walking track to the eastern end of the campground and another around the railway precinct. These feature interpretive signs about local history, the wells that once serviced the town and tips on how to identify the prolific birdlife.

Once a busy railway town and now a ghost town, there are several self-guided walks throughout the old settlement and railway land.

Visit the historic cemetery

At the end of the day, follow the signs a couple of kilometres west to the historic cemetery for sunset. Get there in good time to gain an insight from the headstones and signage into the human cost of this harsh part of Australia. If you decide to walk, don’t forget to bring a torch for the uneven pathway home.

See the human cost of this harsh part of Australia. 

Well known for its clear star-studded night skies and spectacular sunsets Farina is as interesting in the evening as the daytime.

Have you ever visited the historic town of Farina?

The post Visit Farina – Join the Breadline appeared first on Snowys Blog.

On this trail, you’ll be serenaded by the sounds of the birds, you’ll dodge a few wombat holes, be greeted by a myriad of wildlife and share a rock with the odd lizard or two. You stroll along country dirt roads, up rocky outcrops and a wander through the famous Barossa Valley Region.

You’ll wander through bright yellow fields of Canola on this walk. 

There is so much to see and unusual sights as well such as some very long necks reaching high into the treetops! Yes, giraffes along with the odd lion, zebra or even a rhino! This is because, through Rocky Gully, you pass by Monarto Safari Park – one of the world’s largest open-range zoos.

I found walking in the Australian countryside and happening upon this sight unusual, but a real treat.

Flocks of sheep will keep you company on this journey. 

History of the trail

This trail is named in the honour of the late ‘Mr. Bushwalking’, Terry Lavender. He was the architect for the trail and is a man who is also remembered for his part in the creation of the famous Heysen Trail.

In the late 1990’s it was realised that the eastern side of the Mt. Lofty Ranges in South Australia offered a great location for a long distance walking trail with the ranges protecting the trail from harsh weather for most of the year. It was designed, built and is now maintained by a team of volunteers.

The trail is maintained by a group of dedicated volunteers
called Friends of Heysen – and other walking trails. 

The trail has many varieties of link and loop sections to explore and it connects to other trails including the Heysen and the Riesling trails. You also pass through townships including Murray Bridge, Tungkillo, Eudunda, Mintaro and Clare.

There is so much history to be found on this trail and in the towns you enter. Much of it goes back to the early 1800s and is well worth researching beforehand to find out more as you wander along. When you come across the town of Springton a must visit is the historical Herbig Tree. Friedrich and Caroline Herbig lived in this hollowed out River Red Gum tree (which is 300-500 years old) back in 1855 with the first 2 of their 16 children.

The towns you pass through are steeped in history. 

Length

This trail is 325 km in length with an extra 100km of loops and spur trails to explore.

Trail markers

You will find this trail to be very well marked with reflective silver and green plaques with an arrow pointing the way. They are on posts, fences and even rocks. Although the trail is well marked it is recommended that you purchase and carry the maps for the trail.

Look out for the trail markers that are posted along the way. 

Navigation – maps and guidebooks 

With 6 maps in total, these can be purchased at many outlets including the Lavender Federation Trail website, Murray Bridge Visitors Centre and Clare Visitors Centre. The maps contain great information including the trail length and terrain, historical information of the area and more.

Even though the Lavender Federation trail is well marked, it’s recommended to use a map. 

What’s the best time of the year to hike it?

It is recommended to walk this trail between the months of March and November. Remember Summer in Australia can be extremely hot and there is always a high risk of fire. Walking is not permitted on days of total fire bans.

Terrain

The terrain is varied and for the most part a comfortable walk with a few steeper and rocky sections. You will be travelling through many private farmlands and old dirt country roads.

It’s a comfortable walk with some steep and rocky areas. 

Accommodation

Camping is strictly prohibited at any point along the Lavender Trail, so you have to plan your accommodation ahead of time. The Lavender Federation Trail website has a full list of available places to stay along the route which you should check out.

What fitness level do I need?

You would need to have a relatively good level of walking fitness for this trail.

If you want to walk this trail, you will need to be in good shape. Image: Graham Hallandal

Gear to take

• Backpack
• PLB
• Maps and compass
• First aid kit and snake bite kit
• Hydration system and a LifeStraw (for emergencies)
• Wet weather gear
• Hiking poles
• Head buff and sun hat
• Sunscreen and insect repellent
• Mosquito net (for when the flies get bad)
• Sit-a-pon (waterproof mat to sit on when you have a break)
• Flask (to carry your coffee for your break time)
• Change of clothes, spare shoes and socks (for when in town)
• Battery charger (to keep your phone charged)
• Lunch box for your daily lunches

Water and food along the way

Be sure to fill up on water at the beginning of each day before leaving town as there are no resupply points along the way. It is recommended that you carry up to 3 litres each day. Carry the snacks and lunch you need for your days walk as there is nowhere along the way to purchase any food.

Take your food with you for each day so you can stop for lunch. 

Safety and communication on the trail

It is important to always remember your safety is your responsibility. There is phone reception on some parts of the trail but it’s unreliable so have plans in place before heading out each day. You want to have an experience that you want to remember, not regret.

• Tell people of your whereabouts and intended time of return
• Give a loved one your itinerary and contact them when you return
• Carry a PLB with you and place it where you can reach if needed, not inside your backpack
• Get the Australia wide Emergency Plus App
• Carry up to date maps as trails do change from time to time
• Always stay up to date with weather alerts and conditions
• Be aware of drivers on the country dirt roads, they may not see you
• Carry a first aid kit and snake bite kit and know how to use them
• Carry at least 3 litres of water per day
• Wear appropriate clothing for your hike
• In the case of a wildfire, stay calm, alert authorities of your whereabouts and try to head to an open area

Be safe when walking this trail, as some parts have no phone reception. 

Useful information

• The Lavender Federation Trail website
• Emergency Plus App
• Police assistance 131 444
• For an emergency call 000 or 112 from mobile phones
• Check the BOM weather app for alerts

How do I get to the trail?

If starting in Murray Bridge it is a 50 min drive from Adelaide city. There are daily buses leaving the city throughout the day which takes around 2 hours. You can find more information on this at LinkSA.

If starting from the Clare Valley it is a 90 min drive from Adelaide or you can take a coach line with the York Peninsula Coach Lines. This service runs Monday, Wednesday and Fridays and weekends.

I decided to walk this trail by myself, and all up it took 9 days to finish it. 

My walk

Back in 2015 I discovered this trail whilst researching another and decided it was worth exploring. At the time, the trail only went as far as Eudunda, (now it reaches Clare) and no one had ever walked it continuously before. As I’m from interstate, I decided that I would walk it in one go and it took 9 days to complete. It was an amazing experience to walk solo through rural South Australia and you can read more about my walk here. I hope to head back and walk the whole trail again in the very near future up to Clare.

I would like to acknowledge that this beautiful walk would not be possible without the hard work and dedication of the Lavender Federation Trail Community. For anyone planning to take on this trail, I strongly advise you to contact them in advance to ensure the best experience possible.

What’s your favourite South Australian hike? 

The post Guide to Walking the Lavender Federation Trail appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Many a ship went missing on the dramatic coastlines of K.I. It’s unpredictable and a ‘four-seasons in one day’ kind of a place. It is also not as small as most people think.

There are a few companies that offer 1, 2 and 3-day tours of K.I. but I really struggle to understand how you would see the best of this magic dot of land in the Southern Ocean in such a short time.

If you really want to get a feel for the place and make every penny of your barge fee worth it, 7 days is perfect. Pack up your car, grab some mates and follow us on this 7-day adventure around Kangaroo Island.

There is so much to see and do in Kangaroo Island on a 7-day adventure!

A couple of things to consider first:

The barge is one of the most expensive in Australia. Look up ‘Kangaroo Island Sealink Ferry discount codes’, and you might just find a cheeky 10% off.

K.I. is wild, so download Willy Weather (or another reliable weather forecasting app) and get intimate with wind forecast and directions. The beauty of an island is that you can usually find shelter somewhere.

The majority of the roads that lead to the best places are gravel. These roads are actually pretty great, except for within the National Park. So, just consider what you are willing to put your car through.

If you are interested in visiting Seal Bay (loads of Aussie sea lions sunbathing), Kelly Hill Caves and spending a bit of time in Flinders Chase National Park, a Kangaroo Island Tour Pass may be worth your while.

Most campsites are council run, feature a drop-toilet, a small amount of rainwater, and on the rare occasion, a shower ($2 for 5 minutes). Council sites are about $17 per couple.

Lastly, check K.I.’s biodiversity rules and regulations. For example, you can’t take any honey products or potatoes to the island.

Purchase a KI Tour Pass ahead of time to explore Flinders Chase National Park with no dramas.

DAY 1

Rapid Bay – Cape Jervis – Penneshaw – Brown Beach

A good start to the trip, and to ensure you are not in a rush to the ferry terminal, stay a night (or more) at Rapid Bay on the mainland. With great squidding, beautiful water and caves to explore, this is a great place to get your holiday-mode switched on. Arrive thirty minutes prior to your scheduled ferry time and check-in. Loading on to the ferry often involves reversing in. If you are towing or just not comfortable with backing down on to the barge, the friendly staff at Sealink can do it for you. Just ask.

Avoid the rush to the ferry and stay the night before at Rapid Bay on the mainland.

When you hop off the ferry at Penneshaw, stop in at the Information Centre to pick up any maps, local knowledge and your K.I. Tour Passes. It will pay to ask them about local wineries, breweries and honey ice-cream to put on your culinary bucket list. If you are keen to fish before setting up camp, the marina just 500m down the road supplied us with some squid for an entree. We threw a couple of jigs around off of the rocks at the marina entrance.

Brown Beach is great for snorkelling, bird watching and stunning sunsets. The campsites are well protected and there are solar hot showers available. From here you can check out K.I.’s main surf beach, Pennington Bay.

Be sure to pack your snorkelling gear as they are plenty of rock pools to explore, like here at Browns Beach.

DAY 2

Brown Beach – American River – Emu Bay

Not far from Brown Beach is the American River. If you are a hunter-gatherer type you might like to try your hand at collecting Razorfish. American River is teaming with these shellfish all along the shallow weed beds at low tide. They are a bit of work, but fried up with a bit of a salt and pepper crust is really quite delicious. Or, you can just get your shellfish fix at The Oyster Farm Shop.

If like us, you decided to tow a boat over, this is the place to put it in. There is good crabbing and sandy patches that the King George Whiting love along the pylons heading out. American River also offers a well-protected campground with hot showers if you wish to stay longer. We also found it to be a great spot to wait out bad weather.

 Emu Bay is the perfect place to swim with dolphins.

Emu Bay was one of my all-time favourites. It’s the only beach on the island that you can drive on and set-up for the day. The sand is even hard enough for a lot of two-wheel drives if you are game. The Emu Bay dolphins are well-known regulars and we saw them cruise past almost every hour the morning we were there.

If you want to swim with dolphins, now is your chance. You don’t need to swim out far, they seem to love the attention and will soon be coming to you.

Emu Bay allows vehicles on the beach, so set up camp for the day wherever your heart desires!

DAY 3

Emu Bay – Stokes Bay – Snelling Beach – Western River Cove

Today takes you over the rolling hills of the north coast to some of the most pristine beaches in Australia. First stop, Stokes Bay. If you can read the signs that say ‘beach’ and follow the arrows, you will find the “secret beach”. The path was blasted out years ago and winds through the cliff with a couple of narrow sections, before opening up onto a secluded beach. A small rock wall creates a calm pool, safe for the whole family, whilst waves break along its other side.

Snelling Beach is a bit bigger and a lot more open. The rocks on the left-hand side of the beach offer some good fishing options. We managed to land a few salmon and some Tommy Rough with a bit of squid from day one.

If you love fishing, then Snelling Beach the place to go.

Don’t be deterred by the comments on Wikicamps about getting into Western River Cove. It does have some steep sections and depending on what road you come in on, it is a sharp turn toward the beach (something you may need to consider if towing). Great things happen at Western River, other people have said it too.

Maybe it is because it takes a certain type of traveller to be out exploring these parts, but we met some great people here, shared dinners and wet a line together in the dark of night.

The calm waters at Western River Cove are perfect for swimming, snorkelling and more.

DAY 4

Western River Cove – Ravine Des Casaors – Harveys Return

Break up your swims with a hike. The Ravine Des Casaors hike is 7.5km return. Similar to the Snake Lagoon hike planned for tomorrow but with a lot less rock scrambling. The beach is bigger and surrounded by huge limestone caves to explore. The path down was alive with monitor lizards seeking a feed between bouts of hardcore sunbathing.

To keep the legs warm, get to camp and take the short and steep hike down to your private beach at Harveys Return.

The hike is steep but well worth it to find the private beach down at Harveys Return.

I’ll say it again, it is steep. But at the bottom, you will find a magic little beach, part of a bigger marine sanctuary. Whilst swimming we had huge fish dart out around us from the rocks on either side. It is a well-known habitat for the colourful Blue Groper.

The campsite is amongst the gums, some with very low hanging limbs. Make sure you have a parks pass as this is run by National Parks and Wildlife. Cape Borda Lighthouse is just 4km up the road and has daily cannon firing demonstrations and displays interpretative K.I Lighthouse-life information.

Take a break from swimming and catch the views on the Ravine Des Casaors hike.

DAY 5

Harveys Return – Snake Lagoon – West Bay

Snake lagoon is a shorter hike than Ravine Des Casaors at 4km return, but it feels a lot longer. The track meanders down alongside a tea tree stained creek, that eventually breaks over a small waterfall and opens up onto a small beach. If you are only going to do one hike on this trip, I would choose this one.

By the time you have returned from this hike, you will be looking for a place to set-up, watch the sun go down over the sea and hopefully catch some fish for dinner. West Bay will provide. The track out from Snake Lagoon is ‘4WD only’, but oddly the road gets better as soon as you go past the sign. A ploy to reduce traffic? Yes. The sites are fairly small, and site 1 may be the only one appropriate for a caravan.

We had quite a bit of joy casting slugs out into the gutters and catching good-sized salmon. The fish went a bit quiet when the evening dolphin show began. Turns out it is one of their favourite fishing spots too. They whipped around the bay with a few of their seal friends, surfing waves and dancing around. An unforgettable performance.

The seaside views of West Bay are a must see.

DAY 6

West Bay – Admirals Arch – Remarkable Rocks – Vivonne Bay

You can’t come to Kangaroo Island and not stop in at these top tourist attractions. If you are not too keen on paying to see the sea lions at Seal Bay, you can catch a huge colony at Admirals Arch for free. The seals are present all year round and can be found fishing in the waves, sunbathing on the rocks or fighting for pole position on the seafront. They provide hours of entertainment as their antics unfold, worthy of a reality TV show.

If you want to see some seals, head to Admirals Arch.

Remarkable Rocks are just visible from Admirals Arch, looking like tiny balancing stones, but when you get up close and interact with nature’s masterpiece you will see the grandeur of it. You can walk in, around, under, over and through these lichen coloured granite formations. A couple even makes for amazing lounge chairs for a spot of people watching.

Depending on what time of day you arrive at camp, the Vivonne Bay General Store is a must for a King George Whiting burger. So delicious and the service is always friendly. And, if you’re after more local advice, ask these guys, they are always happy to help. Another spectacular beach awaits you here.

Vivonne Bay has been voted as one of Australia’s top beaches.

DAY 7

Vivonne Bay – Seal Bay – D’Estrees Bay

Whether or not you decided to buy the K.I. Tour Pass, you may still want to drop into Seal Bay. You can take a self-guided walk along the boardwalk or get up close and personal on the beach with a ranger-guided tour. Along the boardwalk, you will still be within metres of the fur seals as they often come right up into the dunes to rest and recharge. They may even be right beneath your feet, close enough to see their beady eyes and cute little faces.

It’s sad to think this might be your last night on K.I. but we’ll finish it off with a beauty, D’Estrees Bay. The campsites are stretched out along a number of smaller bays that make up D’Estrees Bay National Park. Our advice would be to go into the further most sites for some serious peace and quiet.

Finishing your trip in D’Estress Bay will provide you with the R&R you need to return home with.

There are safe swimming spots on the beach and rock pools to float in at each point between bays. Again, the beach fishing is good, and it’s not hard to pick a spot to cast your line. The campsites are set in the dunes with your own pathway down to the beach.

Enjoy the sunset and wake up for sunrise to celebrate an amazing seven days on Kangaroo Island.

Are you planning on making the trip on the barge over to KI? 

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I’m going to concentrate on the Mambray Creek part of the park and the hiking you can do from there. You can either drive in and do a day hike or you can camp at Mambray Creek and use that as your base for longer hikes.

To access Mambray Creek you take the Mt Remarkable National Park turn-off from the Port Augusta highway in-between Port Pirie and Port Augusta.

The hikes here range in length and difficulty from the Wirra Water Loop, which is 1.6 km, and takes about 30 minutes to the Black Range Trek taking one day (one way) and is 22 km.

Here I am about to start off on one of my favourite hikes in the park – Hidden Gorge. 

1. The Baroota Hike – a bit of history

One I’d recommend starting with is the Baroota Hike. This trail follows the Mambray Creek Walk but then breaks away with its own rugged trail that ends at the Baroota Cemetery. For some more history on the way back, I’d recommend the short detour to the old Baroota homestead ruins. I love reading about life back in those days and how tough those people were. I have so much respect for them!

The Baroota Hike is a linear trail 6 km long and takes about 2 hours return, maybe a little more if you read all the signs and really take it in. It can be done any time of day but mind the spiders at night and any time of the year. Expect some water during mid-winter to early spring with some crossings getting your feet wet.

The Baroota Homestead Ruins are a great detour to take. 

2. Daveys Gully Hike – short but sweet!

Another short but fantastic hike is the Daveys Gully Hike. It’s only 2.4 km, taking about an hour, but has some of the best views there is in my opinion! I personally like to do this one just before sunset to get some great photos of the sun going down behind the Spencer Gulf. Stunning!

Daveys Gully Hike has some fantastic views and is easy to fit in as it’s short. 

3. The Wirra Water loop – the best place for phone reception

There is no mobile reception at the campsites (which is why I like it there so much) but if you do need some and don’t feel like hiking a mountain, you can do the Wirra Water Loop trail (which is the shortest trail there). I slow down while I’m in the reception zone until I’ve said what I needed to say and then I follow the loop back to camp. Easy.

The awesome River Red Gums that you can actually walk through on the Wirra Water Loop. 

4. Mt Cavern – my next favourite hike

Unfortunately, my favourite hike for measuring my fitness level, Mt Cavern, is still closed indefinitely. It’s a shame because that trek is brutally great! Keep an eye on the National Parks South Australia website here for the trail closure to disappear. The trek information has been removed from their site but you can read about it more here.

The Mt Cavern hike is closed at this point in time, but check back in with the NPSA website for updates! 

5. Hidden Gorge – a brilliant day hike

The next hike I want to talk about is a great and fun hike for the whole family. The kids will probably find it easier than the less-fit parents but still one to try anyway!

Don’t let the 18 km of the Hidden Gorge hike turn you off! All you need is time. If you’re not super fit then allow all day to complete the trail. It’s worth it! The views and other things to see on the trail like all the different birds, reptiles, kangaroos and if you’re lucky, the yellow-footed rock wallaby will surely distract you from the overall distance.

This hike can be quite dangerous to do when there’s water laying around (which is early winter to early spring) so keep that in mind. There are some tricky sections where it’s too slippery to stand, so you’ll have to crawl or slide your way through. A great adventure to be had!

The first time I did this hike it was the first trip I ever did with my big pack which weighed about 17 kg, as it’s the shortest loop trail you can turn into an overnight hike. There was water everywhere, which I didn’t expect, and I didn’t have trekking poles back then for stabilisation while crossing streams carrying that much weight. I ended up very wet but I survived, so be careful.

A fantastic day hike that’s suitable for the whole family is Hidden Gorge.

6. Sugar Gum Lookout – a bit of a workout

If you are wanting a fairly short but reasonably hard hike there’s Sugar Gum Lookout. At 8 km return, it’s not too strenuous length-wise but there’s a bit of a sudden climb up to that lookout that could be a challenge. Of course, you could make it a challenge by running up which I don’t think I’d ever do in my life but each to their own!

Allow 3 hours for this one because you have Scarfes Hut to check out at the bottom of the climb with a sign that’s worth reading.

If you take your time, Hidden Gorge is well worth the effort. 

7. Keen for an overnighter or two? try the Black Range Trek

There’s the Black Range Trek – Mambray Creek to Mt Remarkable, which passes Sugar Gum Lookout. I’d definitely recommend doing this one over two nights. I did it overnight and I could barely move the next day! Having said that I’m not the fittest person and I forgot to stretch afterwards.

It’s a 20 km trek and they say one day one way, but I think if you intend to return you should plan for two nights on the trail. Your first stop could be at Greys Hut which is over halfway to Mt Remarkable and your second stop could be at Sugar Gum Dam Camp, which is over half of the way back.

That’s what I planned on doing, however, I was making good time on day two so I worked out that if I kept on going I would make it to the trailhead on sundown. I got to my car just after dark, hurting all over after hiking 30 odd kilometres for the day. Keep in mind that it’s mountainous terrain too. Not an easy, flat, 30 km!

National Parks SA also recommends using a topographical map which could help as there are some tricky parts where the trail disappears and the way you’re meant to go isn’t obvious.

When hiking Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge, watch out for Narrow Nosed Planigales. 

8. Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge and back

Another option for an overnighter (again, I’d recommend two nights on the trail) is Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge and back. It’s one day one way, 22 km. I’ve done it spending two nights on the trail and as an overnighter. If you enjoy using your gear, and time is on your side, why not make it more comfortable and spend the two nights out there.

I’ve found that Longhill Camp is a good stop for the first night as it’s almost at Alligator Gorge which gives you most of day two to explore the gorge (there are a couple of good hikes to do there) and time to get to Kingfisher Flat for night two. That leaves a fairly short and relaxing hike back to Mambray Creek trailhead on day three.

If you do camp at Longhill Camp, maybe sleep with your pack in the tent. There are these crazy little critters called Narrow-Nosed Planigales. They’re the size of a mouse but Australia’s smallest carnivore. They’ll chew through your bags to get to your food! I had them crawling all over and inside my pack before I brought it inside with me. Then I had them crawling all over my tent but they didn’t get inside. Creepy critters!

There are so many great hikes to do in Mt Remarkable National Park. 

Gotta love Mt Remarkable National Park!

I’ve just mentioned my favourite hikes but there are a lot more to do in Mount Remarkable National Park, so what are you waiting for? Get out there and check them out!

If you want to know what I take on an overnight hike, check out my guide here. Happy hiking!

What’s your favourite place to hike in South Australia?

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What’s also true is Coober Pedy actually makes a pretty good base to do some serious exploring in the region. A one trick pony it ain’t – it’s a genuine destination in itself if you’re prepared to look a little further afield and don’t mind getting dusty.

I recently drove up for the Kanku-Breakaways Marathon and that’s where my adventure started.

The view of the Kanku-Breakaways. 

Do you need a 4WD for this trip?

The Kanku-Breakaways is about 30km north of Coober Pedy. The road in is unsealed, but fine with a 2WD. It’s worth mentioning, any unsealed road can have issues in wet weather though, so an SUV would be preferable, but a 4WD is the best and safest option. In good conditions though, a 2WD will get you where you need to go. Eventually.

You can take a 2WD, but a 4WD would be preferable. 

Gear to take

When I’m on the go like this and lightweight gear isn’t required, I go for extreme comfort and sleep in the back of my SUV with an Exped Megamat and the Coleman Pilbara C-5 sleeping bag. It may be warm during the day, but at night it can get down to around zero, so you’ll want something that keeps you warm.

Are there opportunities for hikes or walks?

There aren’t really any hikes or opportunities to explore on foot at the Kanku-Breakaways, it’s very much a case of driving in and stopping at a few lookouts to take in the views. Which are awesome. There are two main lookouts and a few places to stop throughout the park, including the dingo fence and the Moon Plains – an unbelievably barren landscape that, as the name suggests, looks not unlike the moon. This spot has been used in a number of films including Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome and The Red Planet.

You can do a round trip, entering off the highway and coming back to town via the unsealed Kempe Road. It’ll take half-a-day tops and only a few hours if you’re on a mission.

If you want to head off on foot, you can explore the Moon Plains. 

Exploring the town

My next stop was to do some exploring around town. I’m not big on tourist attractions as such but I figured I’d take in some of the sights. In half a day I visited Tom’s Opal Mine and did a self-guided tour.

You’d probably get more information on a hosted group tour, but a quick self-tour is also fun and more my speed. They even lend you a blue light to spot opal in the mine walls which is very cool.

The grass-less golf course is one of the things to see in Coober Pedy.

Crocodile Harry’s

I’m not one for golf, but driving past the local golf course with not a blade of grass in sight is a good reminder of the Aussie sense of humour.

And, a visit to Crocodile Harry’s Underground Nest is a good reminder that heat can fry your brain. Crocodile Harry was an actual crocodile hunter in the Northern Territory before moving to Coober Pedy where there’s a distant lack of crocodiles, so he started hunting gemstones instead. He ended up building one of the whackiest houses you’re every likely to see. And trust me, I’ve seen a few.

Like a lot of miner’s homes in the area, his is underground. What’s not like other miner’s homes, is his home decoration skills which are off the charts. Well worth a look and a laugh. Both are only a few minutes out of town.

Crocodile Harry’s is a unique tourist destination in the town of Coober Pedy. 

Sightseeing in Coober Pedy

If you’re up for more sightseeing around town, there’s Faye’s Underground Home, the underground Catacomb Church, the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, the underground bookshop and if you’re hungry, John’s Pizza which weirdly enough, isn’t underground.

Equally weird, they claim to have once been included in a list of the top ten pizza places in Australia, but I’m yet to work out if that’s for real, or another quirk of the Aussie sense of humour. Much like their ‘Coat of Arms’ pizza which has emu and kangaroo from the Australian coat of arms. I kid you not.

Galleries to visit when in the town

Back in town, you could visit any number of galleries offering various indigenous art, but Josephine’s is the one to go to because it’s also a kangaroo orphanage and…baby kangaroos are awesome! They close the gallery and feed the roos twice a day, so get there on time, or get locked out.

Josephine’s – the gallery and kangaroo orphanage is the best one to visit in town. 

Accommodation in the area

There’s plenty of accommodation options in town including numerous underground hotels. I was on a budget, so I opted for a cabin at the caravan park, opposite the drive-in. Yes, there’s a drive-in that usually operates on weekends.

Day trip to the Painted Desert

If you’re up for some more serious exploring, The Painted Desert is a full day trip. You could do it on your way to somewhere else, but I did it as a loop ending up back in Coober Pedy. I went there via Kempe Road, an unsealed road directly out of town then turned off to Arckaringa station, and came back via Painted Desert Road.

You’ll need a full day to check out the Painted Desert. 

It’s definitely do-able in an SUV but I’m not gonna lie, a few pieces broke off my car as it was so rocky and rough in places. If you go slow or have a real 4WD maybe it won’t be an issue, but this area is remote and the roads can be pretty rough in places.

You could do this trip on the way to Oodnadatta, or pop out on the highway about 150km north of town and be on your way up to the NT.

Due to the rough roads, it would pay to be in a 4WD. 

The Painted Hills

Breaking your trip up and staying the night at Arckaringa probably isn’t such a bad idea either. I’m usually travelling with time restrictions and so I squeezed this trip into half a day, driving back down the highway after dark – which is not something I’d really recommend with sheep, cattle, wild brumby and roos on the road.

The Painted Desert itself is quite spread out. There’s a lookout area, and a few kilometres away, a short walk you can do which is pretty cool.

It’s worth checking out Wright’s Air for a tour of the Painted Hills.

As good as the Painted Desert is, I can’t help but feel it’s the poor cousin to the similarly named Painted Hills, south-east of Coober Pedy. I’m almost certain you can’t actually drive there regardless of the vehicle you have unless that vehicle happens to be a light aircraft. If you don’t have one of those, hit Wrights Air up for a tour.

They’ve just worked out a few of their light aircraft can land nearby, and have started doing tours in the area. Although all I did was fly over, this looks like total bucket list stuff to land, and go in for a wander. I’m sure it’s only matter of time before you can access it by road, but for now, it’s by air only.

Visiting Lake Eyre

And, if you’re going to jump in a light aircraft, you may as well check out some of the other local sights including Lake Eyre which, right now is one of the rare times it’s filling up with water courtesy of the Queensland floods a few months back.

As great as it was to see Lake Eyre filling up with water, the true highlight for me was simply the landscapes from above. They were absolutely mesmerising. The shapes. The colours. The textures. The patterns. I literally could not take my eyes off of any of it. It was incredible.

I know a tour in a light aircraft won’t be in everyone’s budget, but I cannot recommend highly enough that you find a way to do it at least once.

The view flying over Lake Eyre was incredible.

Stopping over in Woomera

Finally, there’s the trip between Adelaide and Coober Pedy. I went up via the highway, stopping in Woomera for the night. It’s where the rocket base was back in the 60s. Unfortunately, there’s really not many accommodation choices there or anything else for that matter, although, there’s an outdoor space museum which is well worth a half-hour look.

I stayed at Mt Ive Sheep Station on the way home. 

Mt Ive Station

On the way back, I headed inland into Kingoonya and down the west side of Lake Gairdner, staying the night at Mt Ive (sheep) Station. Even a few weeks later, my teeth are still rattling from the drive as some of the unsealed roads are super corrugated, but the landscape was amazing, and there was plenty of wildlife along the way including emus, kangaroos and wombats.

I went there because Mt Ive has direct access to nearby Lake Gairdner, the salt lake where the Dry Lake Racers have Speedweek in March every year. Mt Ive Station has camping, basic ‘Shearer’s Quarters’ accommodation, and if you’re lucky and it’s available, ’the princess suite’ – a restored, stand-alone cottage with air conditioning – which is where Miranda Kerr stayed when doing a photoshoot in the area.

All in all, my trip to Coober Pedy and the Kanku-Breakaways Park was a good one. 

Coober Pedy is a dry and remote location, but it’s still a seriously cool place to explore if you don’t mind the dust and you’re ready for an open road adventure.

Are you thinking of heading off on a spontaneous road trip to the arid and scenic Coober Pedy?

The post Coober Pedy’s Travel Secrets – More than just Opals & Mines appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Two words come to mind when I think of the Coorong – ‘sand’ and ‘freedom’. A weekend getting the ocean breeze into your lungs is a great recreation for those wanting an accessible, yet remote escape.

Wild and windswept – the Coorong meets the Southern Ocean. 

Where is it?

Access to the Coorong National Park is at various points off the Princes Highway after Meningie and Salt Creek, approximately a 2 ½ hour drive from Adelaide. The Coorong proper is a lagoon which separates the mainland from the Younghusband Peninsula and southern beach where most 4WD recreational activities take place.

Five ‘crossings’ allow access to the beach over the lagoon and dune system: Tea Tree (Tidal, full of water in winter, don’t drive on the salt pan), 42 Mile (boring but quickest access), 32 Mile, Wreck (interesting drive) and 28 Mile (plenty of dunes).

The beach is closed north of Tea Tree Crossing between November and April each year to preserve the habitat of birds nesting on the foreshore.

Not much beats a sunset with a bunch of mates, especially in a location like this. 

What to do: fishing, swimming, kayaking, birdwatching and walking

As well as the challenge of sand driving, there are plenty of activities to do at the Coorong such as fishing, birdwatching, photography, swimming and kayaking. With the right winds, a surf is possible, and a few hours spent beachcombing will turn up some interesting finds. Cable drums, cray pots, rope, buoys, logs, sharks, penguins and all sorts wash up from the Southern Ocean.

If you are so inclined, try metal detecting in pursuit of the fabled treasure of the ‘Birdman of the Coorong’, an ostrich-riding highwayman from the 1900s who buried his golden loot somewhere in the Coorong dunes.

There are several short NPWS walks, including a stroll to the birdwatching hide at Jack Point Pelican Observatory – take your binoculars. Parnka Point/Hell’s Gate separates the Northern and Southern lagoons and kayaks can be launched from here depending on where the water has run and the time of year.

There are plenty of places where you can pull off the beach track for lunch or some other activities.

A smidge of history

The Coorong has a rich Indigenous heritage, being the land of the Ngarrindjeri people for thousands of years, along with the added, and more recent, European presence.

An oily substance ‘Coorongite’ discovered in 1878 raised hopes of the area becoming Australia’s Texas and motorbike speed trials occurred on the vast salt pans dotted around the Coorong. Interestingly, recreational camping began way back in the 1890s with visitors sailing from Goolwa for a picnic and overnight camps.

Wreck Crossing brings you out to the site of Margit (cargo ship), which ran aground in 1911. There is still a chance of seeing the wreck at low tide.

This area has a rich indigenous cultural history going back thousands of years. 

Where you can pitch your tent

In the south of the park, official camping areas are provided at each of the crossings as well as Parnka Point and Loop Road. All of these are accessible by 2WD except for Tea Tree (unless you’re brave). These range from large grassy paddocks at 42 Mile and Tea Tree, to more secluded camping at the others which would better suit families or smaller groups.

The alternatives are the Ocean Beach camping areas, which are designated with posts/wire and found along the beach between Tea Tree and 42 Mile Crossings. The old honesty box system is no longer in use, so remember to book and pay for your campsite online here before heading off.

Driving and free camping in the dunes is a really bad practice. It’s damaging to the environment and will also attract a fine if the ranger comes along.

Camping simply on the Ocean Beach site, in my trusty Companion Pro Hiker 1.

Suggested itinerary

An ideal 4WD weekender in Summer would be to arrive late afternoon and make camp at one of the many grassed spots at 42 Mile Crossing. The next day, take a relaxed 2-3 hour drive south along the beach, stopping for lunch and fishing along the way to the Granites (impressive boulders that have somehow landed on the shore).

Then pump the tyres for a quick run up the Old Coorong Road, spotting birds amongst the salt pans nearby. There you have your choice of staying at either 32 Mile or Wreck Crossing campgrounds for the second night.

Not the most ideal conditions for driving – must be high tide!

Meal ideas for your trip

A recipe that’s good at home seems to taste even better in front of the campfire under a blanket of stars. Our staple Coorong dish is curried sausages and mash. This involves browning a pack of snags and curry paste and then simmering for half an hour with coconut milk and a tin of tomatoes.

Another hard-to-beat classic is freshly caught fish with lemon and pepper, baked in the coals of the fire.

There’s nothing better than a hearty meal cooked out under the heavens. 

“Minimise your impact, fool!” – Mr T

Humans aren’t always the most considerate creatures. Unfortunately, this is becoming very evident at the Coorong with the increasing popularity of 4WD vehicles. Piles of empty bottles, full rubbish bags, or even those thrones of discomfort they sell as $7 camping chairs, are just left behind in the dunes.

It’s hard to believe some people are so forgetful they even ‘forget’ to take their own rubbish home. The Coorong is a wild, precious environment, so help do your bit to keep it that way.

Leave no trace behind, there’s nothing worse than coming across rubbish like this. 

4WDing – don’t be ‘that guy’

Conditions on the beach change each season, but the usual advice for sensible beach driving still applies. Pack the car as light as possible, lower tyre pressure to 20psi or less, carry a shovel and stay in the compacted wheel tracks on the high ground.

If you get truly stuck, don’t panic, just hop out and start digging. Hopefully, one of your mates will be feeling generous and bring over a set of GT Boards. This will get you unstuck much faster than digging and with a lot less physical exertion.

Plenty of experienced fishermen will tell you otherwise, but it’s not recommended to be a solo vehicle. Unless you enjoy the feeling of terror when the tide starts lapping at your wheel arches.

Ensure that you take into account safety precautions and the environment when driving. 

The important stuff

Carry all your own water, firewood and a first aid kit. Food could be considered optional depending on your skill as a fisherman or hunter-gatherer.

Fuel use is higher on the beach and, unfortunately, without it, your car will stop. Petrol/Diesel/LPG available at Salt Creek and Meningie.

Carry all the gear that you need and check restrictions before lighting a fire. 

Contacts

If you need more information about visiting the area, there are a couple of really helpful resources. For guided kayak tours and hire you can contact Canoe the Coorong here, or call them on (+61) 424 826 008.

If you want some more details on the Northern Coorong, then this website here will be of help. And, for national park information and maps, head to this site or call (+61 8) 8575 1200.

Have you ever explored Coorong National Park?

The post A Weekend Getaway at the Coorong, SA appeared first on Snowys Blog.

I have been heading to the Flinders ever since I was a young lad. Whilst we had a few days of rain, I rarely saw creeks running freely with water. Nor did I experience thunder and lightning overhead, given how usually dry this part of the world is.

If you’re lucky enough to see this dry landscape after the rains have quenched the soil, you’ll be rewarded with sights that have to be seen to be believed. To watch a dormant landscape suddenly spring to life in a display of colour is incredible. It’s something experienced by the whole body as the senses are awakened by the vivid wildflowers and greenery. Animals appear from every rock and tree, all with the simple yet life-giving presence of water.

Our cosy caravan set up at Spear Creek, before the weather hit. Photo: David Leslie

Spear Creek

Our Flinders trip began at Spear Creek Caravan Park, located just a few kilometres south of Port Augusta. The journey from Adelaide takes about four hours with kids and a caravan. It makes for a pleasant first day pulling into camp mid-afternoon.

Nestled in the foothills on the western side of the Mt Remarkable range, Spear Creek is a beautiful spot that offers private camping towards the back of the property. This is tucked away amongst the ancient red gums still standing beside a creek that rarely sees running water.

The caravan park has comfortable facilities in the powered section including toilets, showers and a camp kitchen. In the unpowered camps, there are flushing toilets in small sheds shared by a couple of campsites.

Dinner around the fire at Spear Creek. Photo: David Leslie

Walking Tracks

A walking track follows Spear Creek into the thick of the ranges. It makes for quite the adventure as the walls of the gorge get taller and narrower the further you venture along.

The rain made the landscape flourish, so we were treated to blooming flowers, which provided a stunning contrast against the rocky escarpments.

The track starts off with a vehicle track but turns to a single-file and runs along the gurgling creek. This makes for some interesting crossings and great photo opportunities. The kids loved exploring the little waterfalls and balancing across the stones as they tried not to get their feet wet.

The wildflowers provided a stunning sight for us and the kids. Photo: David Leslie

Setting Up Camp

Back at camp, we built a fire and enjoyed our first meal in style: a leg of lamb cooked in the camp oven to perfection. Sitting around the fire with not another soul in sight, and comforts like toilets and showers only a stroll away, was a magical and relaxing way to start our Flinders trip.

Little did we know that the weather would impact on our humble campsite that was a little too close to the creek…

With a delicious meal of roast lamb, we were ready to settle in for the night. Photo: David Leslie

The First Day

The following day we decided to head out for a day trip to Alligator Gorge. From Spear Creek, we drove to Quorn where we stopped at the information centre and collected our day pass for Alligator Gorge. From Quorn, we drove to Wilmington and found the turn-off to Alligator Gorge a few kilometres south. All up, the drive (including the Quorn stop) was two hours to the point of heading off along the walking track.

If you need a day trip activity, you can’t go past Alligator Gorge. Photo: David Leslie. 

Alligator Gorge

From the car park, we headed straight down the stairs to Alligator Gorge and followed the track to the Narrows.

Upon reaching the bottom of the stairs we were immediately faced with a rather wet obstacle. The creek was flowing, and we saw a few other walkers returning with wet shoes in hand… so we reconsidered. We ended up walking along the gorge to see how far we would get. I certainly found some of the creek crossings challenging as I was holding my 5-year-old in one hand, my wife’s in the other, my 2-year-old in the backpack, and a large camera hanging around my neck.

I must confess, I was probably more worried about the camera…

We pushed through and, despite getting our socks wet, found ourselves dwarfed by the deep cuttings of the gorge. This is a truly spectacular place and needs to be experienced in person. Photos cannot do this place justice! With the creek running high it was quite an adventure, but we had a great time. Even though we didn’t cover that much ground, we were exhausted by the time we got back.

The whole family had a great time exploring Alligator Gorge. Photo: David Leslie. 

Settling in For a Rough Night…

That night back at Spear Creek, we were packing up dinner when the first of the lightning flashes lit up the sky. Within a few minutes, the heavens unleashed and we quickly retreated to the comforts of the caravan! After a few games of scrabble and some dessert, we headed to bed as the rain started to subside. Any thoughts I had of flooding creeks turned into dreams… only to be awoken around midnight to a strange sound.

As I came to, my heart raced when I realised I could hear rushing water… and it was getting louder. I leapt out of the caravan with my torch just in time to watch the water flow before my very eyes. What was a very dry creek quickly turned into a torrent of water five metres wide, and inching closer to our camp! We rang the caretakers, and after explaining what was happening they replied, ‘that creek hasn’t had running water since 1979!’.

With our exit to the campground cut off by the creek, we didn’t have much choice but to stay put and watch. I placed a few large rocks marking the edge of the water, and watched the creek. Eventually it settled, so I managed to get a few more hours of sleep.

Our campsite before the rains hit. Photo: David Leslie

The Aftermath

The next morning, we awoke to find the flowing creek still in full swing. It’d cut a deep groove into the once dry creek bed, which was going to make dragging the caravan challenging. The caretaker came over to tell me from across the creek that the vehicle track was completely underwater. They’d been the caretakers of the park for 30 years, and had never seen so much water in the creek.

After packing up, we had to cross the creek to leave – which was now a foot deep! It also had a sharp entry and exit to contend with. Luckily, I had lifted my caravan before the trip to make it more off-road friendly. Even still, the drawbar and tail bottomed out, so I dragged it through the creek with its wheels in the air. I was happy I got a new set of Cooper mud tyres on the patrol – that made it a lot easier, and it ended up being a pretty exciting experience!

The vehicle track was completely underwater, which made exiting a little tricky! Photo: David Leslie

From Spear Creek, we were heading north to Wilpena Pound. This had been a great start to our Flinders adventure. With more extreme weather on the way, the ‘adventure’ had well and truly begun!

Spear Creek is a beautiful spot and we will definitely be back. They have a 4WD track on their property which we didn’t try, but that’s just an excuse to come back again. If you’re passing through Port Augusta and need a place to stay, definitely keep Spear Creek in mind!

Heading North to Wilpena Pound

After tackling the flooded creek next to our camp at Spear Creek we managed to make it out in one piece. We then continued our journey around the Flinders Ranges north to Wilpena Pound. As we drove along the main road through Quorn and Hawker, it became obvious that the storm we had experienced was far worse the further north we travelled.

The main highway was cut in many places by swollen creeks forging new paths across the road. Just about every ford was covered in either water or debris from where floods had come rushing past. Thankfully all roads were open, so we made it to Hawker for lunch before pulling into Wilpena Pound.

Me and the kids at Wilpena Pound. Photo: David Leslie

Bushwalking at Wilpena Pound

The main creek running through the pound entrance and next to the campground was full and flowing quickly. Only one of the access points to the campsites was open, as the other was underwater. The dirt roads around the area were closed, and there was mud everywhere. After chatting to some other campers, we found that the entire place was underwater during the storm. Everyone had wet tents and bedding hanging out to dry in the sun!

With the roads closed, the only option was to go bushwalking… which isn’t a bad choice when you’re in the bushwalking capital of the Flinders Ranges! Although, most of the walks were closed due to flooding as well.

We crossed the creek to explore a little further Photo: David Leslie 

Wandering the Vehicle Access Track

We decided to wander along the vehicle access track that leads you into the Pound itself. Most of the longer walks branch off from this track. There is also shuttle bus that will take you to the trail heads of most walks that lead into the heart of the pound.

The shuttle bus wasn’t operating in the muddy conditions, but the path was still quite picturesque – especially for the kids. Just over halfway, we needed to cross the main creek – so it was off with the shoes and into the very cold water to get to the other side!

Once we reached the end of the path, we enjoyed a snack and a look around before exploring the local area further. There, we found a beautiful little waterfall amongst more flowers.

A family of emus wandering around. Photo: David Leslie 

Making Camp

Back at camp, the afternoon provided the opportunity to get cleaned up and have some fun around the campfire. The Wilpena Pound Campground has good showers and toilets, and whilst very populated, the sites are spread out so you can find your own spot in relative peace.

Apart from kids riding their bikes, you may be disturbed by the odd family of Emus. These animals have become very used to visitors, so they have no shame in wandering through your camp! This can give you quite the surprise if you haven’t seen them coming.

Our caravan set up at the Wilpena Pound Campground. Photo: David Leslie

Visiting Sacred Canyon

I’ve been to Wilpena Pound many times, but have never visited Sacred Canyon. So, with reports showing this as one of the only roads now open, we decided to check it out. The drive out again showed signs of the heavy rains, with about 20 creek crossings to be negotiated. The road was open to 4WDs ‘only’, but it didn’t require anything more than slowing down to avoid a rough ride.

Once at the car park, Sacred Canyon is just a short walk up the creek. It’s incredible how quickly the creek narrows as the walls steepen. You find yourself scrambling up rocky ledges to avoid getting your feet wet.

The walk finished at a stunning spot that looked like an amphitheater, with a trickle of water making its way down a waterslide carved into the rock. On the surrounding walls is Aboriginal rock art, which reminded us of how special and ancient this place was. This provided not just a great morning of exploration, but some valuable education for the kids.

Sacred Canyon is a special place to visit if you’re in the Flinders Ranges. Photo: David Leslie

Glass Gorge

Leaving Sacred Canyon we decided to check out Brachina Gorge. But unfortunately, the ‘road closed’ signs were still up, so we continued north to Blinman. It was getting close to lunchtime, so we found a nice scenic loop through Glass Gorge to take us into Parachilna Gorge before returning to Blinman.

Glass Gorge is not the narrow, steep-edged canyon that we had experienced elsewhere – but it really was a beautiful drive. There were plenty of creek crossings to get the 4WD tyres wet, and lots of flowers to brighten the drive. We stopped for lunch next to a creek where our girls whipped off their shoes and played in the water. With the sun shining, it was actually quite warm. We could have stayed all afternoon exploring the rock pools and cooling off in the creek.

We continued along the track as it wound its way west, then south back towards Parachilna Gorge. There was plenty of evidence that a few days earlier this track would have been impassable – even to 4WD’s. The debris along the road and the ruts cutting across the road were signs of a lot of water flowing down the track.

We continued back towards Parachilna Gorge in the Patrol. Photo: David Leslie 

Parachilna Gorge

After rounding a corner, we were faced with the longest and deepest crossing so far. Parachilna Gorge was flowing nicely and whilst not deep enough to lock the hubs, it was quite endearing to cross so much water in what is normally a dry part of the country. It also gave my wife an opportunity to test out her 4WD skills so I could get some photos!

We followed Parachilna Gorge back to Blinman, and then back to camp at Wilpena. When we arrived we had just enough time to clean up before treating ourselves to dinner at the resort’s restaurant.

There was so much water, it’s lucky we were able to cross in our 4WD. Photo: David Leslie

Exploring Wilpena Pound

Wilpena Pound and the surrounding areas would need weeks to explore properly. With so much of the park off-limits due to the rains, and with small children in tow, we could only scratch the surface of what this beautiful place has to offer. Having said that, it’s the perfect place to bring the kids, especially for the beautiful scenery.

There is something for everyone to enjoy in this region. The Flinders Ranges should be on any nature lover’s bucket list – no matter where you are based in Australia. From Wilpena Pound, it was time to head south and begin our journey home… but not without a few more sites to see! Plus (finally), the chance to lock the hubs in and see what the Patrol could do! With the huge amount of water and more on the way, the last part of the trip was sure to be an adventure.

Visiting Quorn is a bit of a hub when it comes to exploring the Flinders Ranges. There are so many places to see leading out from this quaint little town, as well as good facilities and a playground for the kids – but one of the main attractions is the Pichi Richi railway.

The charming town of Quorn is a popular stop in the Flinders area. Photo: David Leslie

The Pichi Richi Railway

The Pichi Richi Railway was opened in 1879 to link Quorn to Port Augusta, as part of the Great Northern Railway. Nowadays it is a great tourist attraction. It still runs some of the old steam and diesel engines along, taking passengers to and from Port Augusta. If you don’t book tickets on the train, it’s still worthwhile watching as the train rolls into the station.

It was quite spectacular and educational for the kids to see a magnificent steam engine rolling into the station. Operating as traditionally as possible, it takes you back into an era been and gone. Once stopped, you can get close to the engine to have a good look and take a few photos.

The spectacle draws quite a crowd as the engine turns around. It then hooks back up to the carriages for the return journey to Port Augusta. If you time this with lunch at the playground, it makes for a great part of your day.

It’s quite exciting to watch an old steam engine operate. Photo: David Leslie.

Argadells Station

Just North of Quorn is a station called Argadells. This property is well known for its camping and 4WD-ing, and is home to Mount Arden. This is the highest peak in the Southern Flinders Ranges. Along with five gorges on the property, you can spend a lot of time exploring this beautiful area.

Just when we thought we had seen a lot of flowers… well, I have never seen anything as spectacular as the sea of colour from Mt Arden out the back of Argadells!

Camping at the Argadells

Argadells has a caravan park and unpowered sites further down along the creek. It also has bush camping out the back, only accessible by 4WD. We stayed in the unpowered campsites which was absolutely wonderful. Shady trees line the creek, there’s lots of grass, a big fire pit, and… a flushing toilet!

The unpowered campsites at the Argadells was a great experience. Photo: David Leslie. 

Settling in for Another Rough Night…

As we set up camp, lit the fire, and got ready for some tucker… the wind picked up, and big black clouds rolled in over the range. I had about 10 minutes from the time we noticed the change before it unleashed its fury on us! As I hurried to secure the fly over the caravan, and put double pegs on the ropes – thunder and lightning struck.

With the torrential rain came a very strong and fierce wind that rocked the caravan. We hadn’t quite finished cooking, so I had to run out to grab the oven off the fire. Once inside, we sat down to a hot meal while the storm raged around us. Whilst a little scary, we were safe and warm in the caravan and I found myself thankful that this time we weren’t in a tent!

The torrential rain made the creeks rush with water. Photo: David Leslie. 

The Ascent Up the Arden 4WD Track

The next day the sun was shining and there was little evidence of the storm that hit the evening before. The caretakers came down to make sure we were okay before checking on some other campers. They told us they would check out the tracks and make sure it was alright to head up Mt Arden. After a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs, we got the all clear to venture out.

Whilst the track was muddy in some places, the going wasn’t too tough. As we passed through a steep gorge to the west of the property, it was like heading back to when dinosaurs roamed the earth! We very quickly forgot we were just 20km from Quorn as we headed out along the tracks to climb Mt Arden. The track at Mt Arden is very steep, and definitely only suitable for vehicles with low range and a bit of clearance.

The Mt Arwen track is pretty steep but absolutely worth the views. Photo: David Leslie

A Carpet of Flowers

As we climbed higher, the view behind us became even more spectacular. From driving through overgrown tracks littered with flowers, we were now gazing out onto entire mountain sides that had turned bright yellow and purple. This really is the meaning of seeing a ‘carpet’ of flowers. The only word to describe it is ‘magical’!

Once at the top, we were greeted with calm conditions and 360-degree views all the way to the Gulf, and as far north as Wilpena Pound. After one more photo, it was time to head down the other side.

The sides of Mt Arwen were absolutely bursting with colour! Photo: David Leslie

The Descent Down the Arden 4WD Track

If we thought heading up was steep, we didn’t know what ‘steep’ was until we started heading down! The track is one way; you are not allowed to climb up the descent track. We soon realised why, as we were left hanging by our seat belts staring straight down!

The track has some big holes, so the Patrol soon found its limit as it stretched its legs and picked up a few wheels. This resulted in us sliding for half a metre or so at times. All in all, if you remember to pick a smooth line, stay in the ruts, first gear, low range, and keep braking and steering to a minimum – it’s a straightforward yet exhilarating descent.

Once back down, we continued through the valleys, followed the creek back to the range and back to camp. This was a very fun track with a few steep inclines and declines in the creek bed and surrounding hills. There was plenty to see, as the wildlife was out to greet us along with even more flowers, turning it into a sea of colour.

Argadells is an adventure destination all by itself. We could easily spend a week here exploring the property and surrounding areas. Make sure you put Argadells on your list for your next Flinders Ranges trip!

A family snap at Mt Arwen before we began the descent back down. Photo: David Leslie

A Spontaneous Stop at Mambray Creek

Now – truth be told, we were never planning to visit Mambray Creek as this is predominantly a bushwalker’s paradise. That said, we had received word that there was more nasty weather on the way. For us, Mambray Creek provided the perfect stop over to ease the distance of heading home.

I have stayed at Mambray Creek many times, as I used to arrange guide walks through the Mt Remarkable National Park. I have seen water in the creek, but nothing quite prepared me for how full it was this time! To see the debris marked a few metres higher in the trees, it’s a wonder the actual campsite had not been washed away in the storm.

The water was flowing rapidly through Mambray Creek. Photo: David Leslie

This is a beautiful spot, though it’s a little more commercial these days as it resembles a caravan park. It’s still set amongst the old river gums and gives you a sense of bush camping with some clean facilities only a short walk away.

If you get the chance, pack your hiking boots and an overnight pack and explore the National Park; its true treasures are accessible only by foot.

We took the opportunity to stroll along the nature walk beside the creek, finding hollowed out trees for the kids to play in and lots of wildlife to see. After that, it was just one last fire and a game of scrabble left of our Flinders Ranges trip.

Mambray Creek was the perfect place for a stop on the way home. Photo: David Leslie

Our Trip in a Few Words…

The Flinders Ranges is a remarkable area, boasting some of the oldest geological formations in the world. There is so much to see and so much adventure – no matter what you’re into. This place is a spectacular spot to visit, all year-round.

However – just add water, and the entire country comes to life! Everything is lifted up a gear, and I can honestly say that in all my years of travelling and guiding the area there is nothing like the Flinders Ranges in the spring!

When do you think is the best time to visit the Flinders Ranges? 

The post A Spring Adventure in the Flinders Ranges appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Kathmandu: a sprawling city that excites the senses!

Arriving at Kathmandu-Tribhuvan Airport

On arrival at Kathmandu-Tribhuvan airport you’re greeted with an initial rush to get your visa sorted ($40 USD for 30 days), exchange money and then to collect your bags. As you walk out of the doors and enter Kathmandu, the only sound you can hear is “Taxi!”. Make sure you pre-arrange a price to your destination whenever hiring a taxi in Nepal. You might get overcharged significantly if you don’t do this as they’re not metered.  A taxi from Kathmandu-Tribhuvan airport to Thamel, the main tourist area, should cost around 500 – 600 Nepalese Rupees (4-5 USD)

Thamel

Thamel is a hub filled with travellers, shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes, so there is nothing you can’t find. If you need more gear for trekking, maybe a sleeping bag or down jacket, these can easily be hired or purchased at any of The North Face or trekking shops.

The streets are small, very colourful and full of locals and foreigners. Not many of these streets are straight, and they all look similar, so it’s a wonderful place to get lost! The shopping is great and lots of fun, especially when you haggle with the charismatic shopkeepers for a bargain.

This is a typical Kathmandu Street view. It can be a culture shock to some.

What to eat in Thamel

There is an abundance of food options available in Thamel, – from traditional Nepalese to Western, Middle-Eastern and bakeries. I can highly recommend OR2K on Mandala Street (the only street without cars) for every cuisine under the sun and a very relaxed atmosphere. The Himalayan Java and Blueberry Kitchen does a great breakfast, and the Western Tandoori and Naan House do ripping Indian-style curries.

Don’t let the exterior of the Tandoori House put you off, it may look like quite the simple place but it is always full of travellers and the food is incredible. It’s also insanely cheap (roughly 1USD for a vegetarian curry). I’d recommend trying the traditional Nepali dish Dal Baht which is available at every restaurant. Momo, which are steamed or fried Nepali dumplings are another must-try.

Kathmandu offers a new discovery around every corner.

What to see and do in Kathmandu

Kathmandu has many sights that are a walk or a short taxi ride away from Thamel. The Garden of Dreams is a sanctuary away from the busy main street and a great place to sit and read on the lawns. There are two main Buddhist Stupas, Boudha Stupa (Boudhanath) and Swayambhunath (monkey temple), both are worth a visit.

You get a fantastic view of the Kathmandu Valley from Swayambhunath. And you can get up close and personal with the monkeys. Remember to walk clockwise around the stupas, especially if you turn the prayer wheels as this will give you good luck. Pashupatinath Temple is the main Hindu temple of Kathmandu located on the banks of the Bagmati River. It’s a beautiful and very interesting place to wander – you may even catch a cremation ceremony on the riverbank.

For the uninitiated traveller, Kathmandu can rattle the senses. However, an open-minded approach will reveal a charming city with a crazily wonderful personality that deserves a few days for exploring. Stay tuned for the next stage of our trip which takes us on a flight to Lukla. Landing at one of the most dangerous airports in the world before setting off on foot towards Namche Bazaar.

Have you immersed yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of Kathmandu? Tell us your story in the comments section below.

The post Adelaide to Everest – Exploring Kathmandu appeared first on Snowys Blog.

This is when the perfect weather began. And our most macho, 35kg pack-wielding hiker introduced himself to a roll of fence wire with harmless but comedic results!

Starting the hike

Following a fence line, we ascended a steep, scraggly hill with great views of the scrubby country. The track was a bit hard to identify at some points but became easier once we began going in and out of creek beds. Our destination was the shelter at Caroona Creek Conservation Park, which concluded a comfortable day’s hike of approximately 12kms. The group set up camp near the modern and recently built shelter.

This section of the Heysen Trail is covered in the Southern Guide. If you’re serious about chipping away at some sections of the Heysen this, and the Northern Guide, are a worthwhile investment. 

We were joined by some car campers, being the June long weekend it was quite busy, but it never felt like we were intruding on each other’s space. There’s a drop toilet at this camping spot, but BYO paper as usual. Recent changes mean fires are no longer permitted in the park.

The next day

The next day we walked past a waterhole and up Tourilie Gorge to a great lookout over the area we’d just hiked through. The trail mostly follows a small creek, so getting lost didn’t become a problem. There is also a nice historic hut, Tourilie Gorge Hut, that is easily missed as it can’t be seen from the track. Just ascend the small hillock about 200m back from the waterhole.

A ‘true blue’ bush camp in Caroona Conservation Park.

Mt Bryan East Schoolhouse

Passing into open farmland after a brief section of native pine, we came to the old Mt Bryan East Schoolhouse. The farmer, Arthur, who owns the surrounding land dropped in for a yarn, and kindly delivered a huge log for the night’s fire!

The old school is available for accommodation for Heysen Trail hikers. Inside are a couple of large rooms with approximately 20 bunks, and a fireplace keeps it warm as the nights can get very chilly.

How’s that for a view?

Cooking meals on the trail

Those who dared to cook on the fire had varying success, but the rest of us used the usual Trangia or MSR-style stoves. I was trying out some new recipe ideas and was pleased with the low weight and tastiness of dried peas (a packet serves about 10 people!), Deb Mash Potato, and Foster Clarke Instant Custard. Gourmet camp cooking right there!

The challenge of Mt Bryan

Mt Bryan itself was the challenge for the next day – roughly a 320m ascent over 1.5 km needing more than a small effort! The 360-degree view at the top was astounding. And, we found a good resting and tea spot on the lee side of the hill.

The afternoon descent to Hallett was gentle, through green valleys with plenty of friendly sheep around. We waited and played Uno while our drivers did the car shuffle. Then we hit the road for the 3-hour drive home to Adelaide.

Ascending Mt Bryan.

Weather, water availability and mobile coverage

The fresh and sunny June weather held throughout the hike. Th days were warm but nights got chilly, certainly down to 0 degrees.

Water was not a problem at this time of year, with near-full tanks at each overnight stop on the trail. However, the Caroona area is quite remote with patchy mobile coverage and it would be worth informing someone reliable of your plans and carrying a PLB.

The dirt access road (White Hills Road) after Burra might shake the family sedan around a bit but is quite achievable.

What is your favourite stretch of the Heysen Trail?

The post The Heysen Trail – Hiking From Caroona To Hallett appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The purpose of this trip was to help an historian friend visit Bloods Creek as part of research into a book on Ted Colson who was the first white man to cross the Simpson Desert in 1936. He left from Andado Station with five camels, an aboriginal friend named Peter Eringa, and of course his dog which, strangely, is not mentioned in official histories. Two weeks later, he arrived at the Birdsville pub – and three days later he left to go home, nailing a tin plaque to the Poeppel Corner post on the way. He arrived home after a thirty-day journey. Quite a remarkable feat when one considers that explorers like Sturt had tried the same trip and failed. But I digress.

Red dust. Green verge. It’s amazing what a bit of rain does to the outback.

The route in 2016 (Plan A) was to head up the black top to Leigh Creek, then the Oodnadatta Track to Oodnadatta. From there we would drive to Abminga, which is 70km south by east of Finke as the crow flies. From Abminga we would visit Bloods Creek, 50km to the east, and return to our camp at Abminga. A quick two-day visit to friends at Erldunda, then back to Oodnadatta and Maree, with a detour to the Painted Desert. From Maree we would go to Montecollina Bore on the Strzelecki Track, south to Yunta via Chambers Gorge, then home to Adelaide. Two 4WD vehicles, two satellite phones, two UHF radios, well-supplied with fuel, water, and food. We thought the trip would take us 15 days and cover about 3,500km.

Abminga Station is on the southern side of the SA/NT border from Charlotte Waters, on the Old Ghan Railway. 

Monday, August 29 – Adelaide to Burra Gorge

Got away on time, midday. Only forgot the thermos and bacon. Fine weather heading north but overcast and starting to rain by the time we reached Burra Gorge – World’s End Biodiversity Reserve as it is now called. Where do they get these names?

Coffee in Kapunda on the way to Burra, then lunch on the banks of an overgrown creek. A useful tip for those who forget something: the general store in Robertstown is one of those old country stores that have everything, somewhere, just find it.

The fierce Aussie outback showing a bit of colour.

The countryside is green and domesticated and prosperous looking at this time of year. Very relaxing and good for sightseeing. This slowed the driving but made the journey safer. Must remember that.

It felt good to stop early and select our campsite at leisure, even if rain was threatening. Inevitably, it started to drizzle then rain as soon as we started to set up the tent on our camper trailer. A good night’s sleep then cereal for breakfast, as we’d forgotten the bacon.

Tuesday, August 30 – Burra Gorge to Leigh Creek

Rain stopped overnight but the tent was still damp when we packed up. We were running late to meet our friend at 9:30 so we had to rush into Burra. At the usual place I had a tiddy oggy, which was brilliant. A real Cornish pasty from the mining days. Then onto Peterborough, Hawker, Orroroo, and Leigh Creek.

We went through several small country towns which seemed to be dying, if not almost dead. One that caught our imagination was Terowie. The bypass road to Peterborough from the Barrier Highway has really isolated the town and few people bother to stop. Despite that setback, the people in Terowie have tried to make something of their town. It is clean, and despite an obvious lack of money, it is well kept. We saw some features that are worth preserving such as the old blacksmith shop, with a classic curved top wooden door; a centenary/pioneer park, a feature park for children; and a quite imaginative metal sculpture park. Terowie is worth stopping at for a coffee, and a look around.

Metal sculptures in Terowie. A typical country town in decline that shows great human spirit. A must-visit if you’re passing nearby. 

It makes you wonder about the government’s policies on the country towns. They are obviously dying, and there is little work or financial incentive to live in the country.

The old shop fronts on the main drag in Terowie. Long gone but well preserved. 

We camped in Leigh Creek Caravan Park that night with our friend, by tradition, taking a room at the pub. Leigh Creek is also a town worth a visit. The government has obviously slated this town to die but the people are fighting back. They are cheerful and optimistic but don’t know what the future will hold. All the facilities are there to make this town work – supermarket, pub, shops, school, swimming pool, caravan park, post office, police station, hospital and medical centre, petrol station and workshop, public works department, pipelines, sewerage system, good domestic roads and, most importantly, people already there who are eager to make a go of anything. It seems a waste to desert it all. But silence from the government. Remember the pride of this amazing town when it was shifted, holus-bolus, in 1982 when they wanted to expand the coal mine?

Wednesday, August 31 – Leigh Creek to Erldunda

We now had to make a major revision of our plans. Overnight all the dirt roads in the outback were closed because of rain. We had heard the forecast on ABC Country radio, so the closures were not a surprise but were a disappointment. Our priority at this time was to find out if there was any more rain forecasted and when the roads might be open again. The police in Leigh Creek are very helpful. They thought the roads could possibly be open again early the following week. Out with the maps and onto Plan B.

We judged that there would be no significant rain in the area in the next few days, so we hit the black top and backtracked to Pt Augusta, then north to Erldunda. We anticipated the roads being opened by the time we left Erldunda. This would just reverse our order of march to return to Maree. It did have the advantage of giving us the chance of a good look at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens just north of Port Augusta. It’s a fascinating place that shows what can be done with little or no water. And there’s a good café for lunch.

2016 has proven to be a bumper year for desert wild flowers like Sturt’s Desert Pea. 

We weren’t looking forward to the long drive north but the recent rain added more floral interest. Everything from Sturt’s Desert Pea, native daisies, Green Pussytail, native bush tomatoes, Blue Pincushions, and many others. Sometimes carpets of flowers, sometimes just individuals, but it shows how rain transforms the inland. The east coast country has its greens and mountains, but the flat inland produces shy surprises like these.

Tuesday, September 6 – Erldunda to Abminga

After two very enjoyable days on the station at Erldunda we started out again on our research trip. Firstly, down the blacktop to Kulgera where the price of diesel was 169.9. Then we aired down and hit the first of the dirt tracks heading east, to Finke – well maintained but wet. We had a short side-step to Lambert’s Centre, 20km before Finke. This track was very wet. 4WD only, which gave us a taste of what was to come. It’s a desolate spot with a visitor’s book in a jerry can, donated by the Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia.

Lambert’s Centre. The Geographical Centre of Australia, you know?

Turning south from Finke towards Charlotte Waters, the road deteriorated very quickly. This road leads primarily to Mt Dare and the desert, or southward, and is well maintained – but the recent wet weather had made it very muddy and the few cars that had used it had really churned it up.

There was mud and water everywhere, and many detours. One detour was at least 2km long. We were in four-wheel drive, high range the whole time. In retrospect, the roads should have remained closed for another two days. We have been told that because of manpower shortages, roads are automatically declared open three days after the rain stops… without actually checking!

After the turn off at Charlotte Waters towards Abminga, the road changed. You’d expect a dirt road to be graded, perhaps bulldozed, with a ridge at the edge. The road we were now on had no edge to it. The only change was that the going got a little rougher through the low ground cover if you strayed off the road.

There isn’t much left at Abminga these days. Here are the ruins.

It gives the disconcerting feeling that if people do not continue to use the road, after a couple of weeks, it will simply be reclaimed by nature with no indication of where it is or leads to. There are no signposts or mileage markers.

We camped at Abminga, a siding on the Old Ghan Railway line, just on dusk. All that’s left are the ruins of a few fettlers’ cottages, a water tank, and old cattle yards of historical significance now.

The downside to this campsite, and any campsite in the surrounding thousand miles, is flies. Sticky little bush flies that don’t seem to understand ‘no’ or imminent death as any sort of deterrent. At least they disappear with the arrival of the dark. There are mosquitoes about but not in the same quantities and they did take the hint when we lit mosquito coils. Darkness on the other hand did not deter them as it did the flies. We were very thankful to have an insect proof camper trailer tent to which we could retire to eat dinner and sleep.

Wednesday, September 7 – Abminga and Almost Bloods Creek

Today was the day the whole trip had been planned around: the visit to the Bloods Creek ruins. They were less than 60km away, on the map, which we thought would be an easy day trip. It might have been in the dry season, but this wasn’t. The road was far worse than any we had been on so far, both in mud and water; quantity and depth. But we persevered and, after two hours and a bit of low range work, we were within 2km of our destination.

Typical road conditions for the trip. Wet and muddy.

Then our journey came to an abrupt stop. We came to a creek flowing over the road. We had been able to circumnavigate other similar problems but not this one. It was deep, wide, and flowing. There were no recent tracks into or out of the water as there had been up to now. And the bottom appeared to be muddy, not firm.

This is very lonely country. We had not passed any vehicles on the road or seen any habitation, so we turned back. If we had another vehicle with us we might have tried a crossing, but not under these circumstances. We had left our other vehicle back at camp – why bring two on this short trip? Our thoughts, as we returned to camp, are not repeatable. At Leigh Creek, a good meal with a good bottle of red altered our perspective. Out with the maps again and onto Plan C. We decided to attack Bloods Creek from the north, via Mt Dare. We would not be able to spend as much time there as planned but at least we could take some photos after a quick look around.

Thursday, September 8 – Abminga to Mt Dare

We packed up and left for Charlotte Waters on the same atrocious road that we had come in on. At Charlotte Waters we turned south for Mt Dare. The road was even worse. We reached Mt Dare early afternoon, or rather we reached the edge of the Mt Dare property. We were presented with a heap of churned up mud followed by a completely flooded road, the end of which we could not see. When I say flooded, only the top-half of the road signs were visible. There was one 4WD and trailer stuck in the mud with no-one about.

A sign that other four-wheel drivers have been through here recently. Chopped up track

Satellite phones are wonderful. A call to the Mt Dare Hotel brought one of their staff out in a Land Cruiser  to guide us in. It was remarkably easy through the deep water, but with firm footing.

Because we were tired, dispirited, hot, and hungry, we decided to stay at Mt Dare for the night. The staff at Mt Dare are very helpful, obliging, and knowledgeable people. Little did we know how helpful they can be.

Friday, September 9 – Mt Dare to Eringa Billabong

It’s amazing what a good night’s sleep will do. Next day after a chat with the staff about road conditions, and armed with a new sense of purpose, we pursued Plan C and set off south for another attempt to reach Bloods Creek. After eight days to dry out, the road was much better than it had been further north and west. We reached Bloods Creek ruins in time for an early lunch.

Having explored the ruins while we munched and took photographs, we took the road to Federal, another significant railway stop 9km to the east. This was a good road as few people had driven on it since the rains. Then déjà vu. Within sight of the ruins at Federal there was another large body of water. The staff at Mt Dare had warned us that this was probably not passable because of a muddy bottom. So we took long-range photographs and retired unsatisfied.

The beautiful Eringa Billabong.

Now we had to start heading homeward and to try and retrieve as much of our original Plan A as we could. Our plan for that night was to camp at the Eringa Billabong, 25km south of Abminga. This meant we had to retrace our tracks along the atrocious road on which we had first approached Bloods Creek on Wednesday. That meant crossing the creek that had originally stopped us. But we had spoken to the staff at Mt Dare who told us the bottom was quite firm, and after two days of wind and sun the water should have receded a bit. When we reached the creek, 2km from Bloods Creek, we plunged straight in, cautiously, and crossed without incident. We then tackled that same stretch of road that had seen our original disappointment. A day and a half had dried the road quite considerably and we crossed it in, what to us, was record time. On to Eringa Billabong we went.

Camping at Eringa Billabong. Our favourite place.

This was the best campsite of the trip. The recent rains had filled the billabong and everything around it was green – including the budgerigars. There were more birds here than we had seen on the trip so far. Mainly budgerigars, pelicans, and galahs. It was quite startling to see pelicans in the outback. One expects to see them on Lake Eyre, but that is a large piece of water. This was a relatively small billabong, with only two pelicans. Maybe they wanted the place to themselves, and weren’t telling their mates.

We had a good dinner that night and if we had a bottle of champagne we would have opened it. Main mission accomplished. Now we were looking forward to seeing the Painted Desert and camping at the Old Peake Telegraph Station ruins.

Saturday, September 10 – Eringa to… Eringa (via Mt Dare)

Packed up, ready to go early. Daily check of vehicles. All okay. Backed up to the trailer to hitch up. Disaster! One wheel on the trailer was at an odd angle. The bearing had disintegrated. No indication of when it had happened. After taking off the wheel and the hub it seemed there was no damage to axle, hub or wheel, but there was no bearing, it had disintegrated. This trailer was less than a year old, so I hadn’t bothered with basic pre-trip checks and was not carrying spare bearings. One learns all the time.

Sat phone again. RAA could not help for at least two days in spite of our extensive cover. So, which is closer Coober Pedy or Oodnadatta? Look at the map. Mt Dare has a workshop and they are closer. Gave them a ring. ‘Yes, we have lots of trailer bearings. See you as soon as we can.’ Leaving our friend to write up her notes and enjoy a day in the sun, my wife and I set off once again for Mt Dare.

I’ve spoken a lot about Mt Dare in this series. Here’s the hotel. Image credit: Mt Dare Hotel.

This little side trip gave us a bit of a laugh and cheered us up. When we first arrived at Eringa there was quite a deep puddle leading to the Eringa Bridge. Armed with the advice from the Mt Dare people, we just slowed down and went through. No problem. On our way back to Mt Dare with the trailer bearings we charged straight through. There was a couple on the far side, who we recognised from the Mt Dare campground, shoes off and just about to test the water depth. Slowing so as not to splash them we stopped, and being a smart alec, I called through the window, ‘is that what you wanted to know?’, referring to our journey across as a reference point for them. Luckily, they too had an ‘off’ sense of humour.

The roads had seemed to dry up a little over the past few days so we made better time reaching Mt Dare. We were confronted by the same mud and water but this time had the confidence to go straight through. To the Mt Dare staff the trailer bearing was just a routine problem, and quickly we were on our way again with new bearings fitted to the hub. I said this was just a routine problem for them – to us they were a lifesaver.

To the Scott family, proprietors of the Mt Dare Hotel, and their staff: we are very grateful for your cheerfulness and for not treating travellers in need as unprepared amateurs (which we must have seemed to them). You are a credit to the people of the outback.

We returned to Eringa, fitted the hub with its new bearings, and were ready to go. Just in time for dinner, with a bottle of red.

Sunday, September 11 – Eringa to Coober Pedy

Having lost another day it was time to consider the maps and Plan D. We realised that we could not include a visit to Peake nor the Oodnadatta Track. We could just manage a quick trip via the Painted Desert provided we camped by the side of the road and then returned home on the boring blacktop. Okay, so that was it. But Murphy had not quite finished with us. When we reached Oodnadatta we discovered that the Painted Desert road was closed. So, cutting our losses, we headed for Coober Pedy, planning to spend the night somewhere along the road. Again, Murphy had a chuckle. This road to Coober Pedy is one of the most barren I have come across.

The monotony of the road from Oodnadatta to Coober Pedy.

Halfway down it with dusk approaching, we found a possible campsite on a creek bed with some gidgee trees around it. Not an ideal spot but sufficient for our purpose. We drove off the road and got out of our cars to look at the site. We were immediately attacked by all the mosquitoes from the surrounding aforementioned thousand miles. I have never seen so many. As our friend sleeps in the open we had to move on. Plan E. As the countryside between that creek and Coober Pedy looked to be all the same we decided on a dash to Coober Pedy, which we reached just after dark. No mucking about – pizza for dinner, with a bottle of red.

Monday, September 12 – Coober Pedy to Woomera

In the morning it seems almost unnecessary to say there was another hiccup. Normal vehicle checks revealed a broken fan belt. So being past the stage of being alarmed it was just a matter of fitting a new one. Except, the spanner broke. Luckily it was a Monday morning in a well-supplied outback town. Having finally bought a new spanner, replaced the fan belt, and set the tyres to highway pressure, we were on the road to Woomera, our next planned stop. Strangely, there were no incidents worth reporting that day. We found the campsite I remembered from a previous visit, about 50km south of Woomera. Lit a fire, and had a small libation before dinner. Then it started to rain.

This time I was prepared. Rain had been threatening and being aware that our friend’s reaction to rain was to retire to the vehicle and spend the night sitting up, I had brought a tarpaulin to make a shelter. This done, we enjoyed a peaceful night. The last in the open.

Tuesday, September 13 – Woomera to Laura

Deadlines were now upon us and we had to be home the next day.

After packing up a wet tent, we planned to have lunch in Port Augusta then a quick visit to Wilmington before a night in the caravan park at Laura. But naturally, the rain had caused a landslide on the Horrocks Highway, so we had to go via Quorn (does that qualify as Plan F?), which was no hardship as it’s a very picturesque township.

As we reminisce on the outback this is where the mind went. Track in this condition. 

We had dodged the rain before venturing into the outback, survived the mud and ‘open’ roads full of water, and were now on the black top. And Hughie decided to ‘send ‘er down’. We drove from Wilmington through Wirrabara and on to Jamestown, Spalding, and Clare. We only just made it. In a couple of places,the water was over the roads and the next day they were cut. We were lucky to get through. During the next week there were floods all over South Australia. We had the feeling of not being hounded out of the outback, but of being looked after!

This book on Ted Coulson will be a good one.

Our final night on the road, but not in the bush, was in Laura. Laura is a pretty town worth a separate visit. An excellent dinner of Swedish meatballs with couscous and vegetables, with another excellent bottle of red.

Wednesday, September 14 – Laura to Home!

On to Jamestown and a very good little bakery for a coffee and pasty, before finally saying goodbye to our friend and heading for home.

When we got home, this was the drama presented to us.

Our placid little Fourth Creek trickle now a raging river.

This was a memorable trip. Starting with Plan A, we finished with Plan E which could well have been further down the alphabet. Looking back the only things that didn’t go wrong were our personal health, food, water, and fuel supplies. Two things stood out on this trip. Communications and maps. We had satellite phones for long distance calls, UHF for convoy comms, and AM car radios to listen to ABC Country Radio – 639MHz in SA – which has excellent regional weather reports.

And maps. I try never to travel without detailed, up-to-date maps. Without maps on this trip we would have been paddleless up that creek. Literally. Maps allowed us to plan alternative routes, and achieve our main objective at least. Without a map we could have been stuck at Leigh Creek.

A quick map update: The map I had showed you earlier in this article shows a road direct from Abminga to Bloods Creek. It no longer exists. We spent a long time looking for it. It was recently bulldozed out of existence, no reason given. What’s the opposite of the old saying ‘if a road appears when and where you expect it to, don’t assume it’s the right road’…?

Got any interesting outback stories to share? Perhaps you got as far as a Plan Z in yours? Share in the comments below.

The post A 4WD Trip to Abminga Station appeared first on Snowys Blog.

However, you don’t have to travel quite as far to still see the raw beauty of these ancient ranges. The Southern Flinders offers you a diversity of places to see and things to do. Quorn is one of those places.

A town seen far and wide in a long list of films (Gallipoli, Wolf Creek), it has a population of just over a 1000 people. Its lifeblood now is to support farmers, pastoralists and tourism.

The town and surrounds are steeped in the history of the indigenous Adnyamathanha as well as the European settlers that came and took up leases from the 1840s on, and physically, the immensely old geological features that host the region.

Before you start exploring the Southern Flinders Ranges, be sure to drop into the Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre. 

Visitors to the town are well-served with options for dining – ranging from pub food to freshly prepared tucker in the numerous bistros/cafes in First Street. This amazingly wide street harks back to the days of bullock drays bringing supplies to the town, and needing to be turned around.

Equally, there is a variety of options for accommodation whether you are looking for catered, self-serviced, caravan park or bush camping. The old railway station building is now used as the Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre and much can be learned from a visit as well as using their helpful website beforehand.

A broad range of activities can be enjoyed by visitors. Here are just 5 great things to do when you visit Quorn:

1. Warren Gorge Loop Trail

This is a well-marked walk that can be tackled by most people, particularly if you follow the advice and walk clockwise. Allow yourself anywhere from one and a half to three hours to complete the circuit. My wife and I took just over 2 hours at a casual pace with lots of stops to take photos of the constantly changing views.

You get a taste of it all: uplifted sediments in the gorge, gum lined creeks, native pine forest, wattle grove, spinifex and yacka covered hillside, rocky ridgetop and mallee studded bush. This is complemented with expansive views of the Arden Hills and views to distant Wilpena Pound.

Euros and red kangaroos are regular sights and, if you’re lucky, the endangered yellow-footed rock wallaby will be sighted either in the gorge or along the western side of the range. Camping is permitted in the area for a small fee, while maps are available from the information centre.

The Warren Gorge Loop Trail is a must-do if you’re in the Southern Flinders Ranges.

2. Pichi Richi Railway

This iconic railway has been nurtured back into existence by an enthusiastic group of volunteers. It showcases engines from both the steam and diesel eras of the narrow-gauge Ghan line to Alice Springs.

Prize exhibit is the Coffee Pot, a tiny steam motor coach that is not only over 100 years old and lovingly restored but is the only working one of its kind in the world.

The old Pichi Richi takes you from either Port Augusta or Quorn through the spectacular Southern Flinders Ranges.

You can take a trip onboard at selected dates between March and November. Check out the Pichi Richi website for the latest information and timetables.

3. Nathaltee Track

Don’t have a 4WD? This is the way to go if you have an all wheel drive vehicle. It is a self-drive track that can be driven in a couple of hours and gives you a taste of the hardships that the early settlers experienced as well as some magnificent vistas towards the Dutchmans Stern and back down the valley to Quorn and Devils Peak.

This is the sort of view you will experience on the Nathaltee Track. Pretty stunning, right? 

There are many other 4WD tracks in the area that can be explored but this, driven particularly early morning or late afternoon, will whet your appetite for more. More information is available from the information centre.

4. Powell Gardens Botanic Gardens

Are you interested in native plants? Do you want to get ideas for your own garden? A visit to these gardens is must. They were started by Brian Powell and his wife Faye (of the quandong growing fame). There are now over 200 local species of plant on display with the seed bank of rare species also being preserved.

Started by Brian and Faye Powell, the first to cultivate quandongs, the Powell Gardens are a must for the native flora enthusiast.

One section of the garden is dedicated to showcasing natives suitable for home gardening. Easily accessible on the edge of town in the parkland belt, this is another volunteer-based offering for visitors. For more information visit the Flinders Ranges Council website.

5. Four Winds Cultural Guiding

Want to understand more of the aboriginal culture of the Ikara-Flinders? Join Stefan, an Adnyamathanha man, who has spent his life immersed in the ranges and his culture. He will share some of his knowledge of his land and its history, about bush tucker and bush medicine and many other stories from his deep love and knowledge of his country.

This is Stefan. He knows more about this part of Ikara-Flinders Ranges than most people. 

A variety of tours are run on a regular basis. More can be found on the Four Winds Dreaming website or at the information centre.

Other Activities

There are many more walks, drives, bike rides and activities in the area, including the Heysen and Mawson Trails. I could list another six or so walks of various difficulties quite easily. Similarly, there are 4WD tracks that will test your skills and nerve as well as reward you with fabulous views. All this and more, and at the end of the day you can sit down to a coffee and cake or stronger beverages at one of the previously mentioned cafes or pubs.

Right now (winter 2016), the ranges are cloaked in an amazing coat of green. The rain that has been experienced has created a magnificent colour in this land of contrasts.

At only a 3.5 hour journey from Adelaide and with a number of scenic ways to get there, it’s the perfect weekend trip in winter, spring, and autumn.

The post Top 5 Things To Do in Quorn appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Perhaps this name change flagged an intent to push the line forward to central Australia, with work beginning in 1927. Over the next two years, gangs of men toiled in the harsh outback to push the line forward and build fettlers huts, bores and water tanks with the first passengers arriving in Stuart (later to be re-named Alice Springs) in August 1929.

Despite the 36 year ‘pause’ at Oodnadatta, the ‘much bigger pause’ at Alice Springs makes this pale into insignificance.

After 70 years to think about it, construction of the line between Alice Springs and Darwin began in 2001, with the first passengers arriving in Darwin in February 2004, covering the 2970km in 47 hours

The green line on the map indicates the course of the Old Ghan Railway. The insert shows the track running from Oodnadatta to Finke. Maps are the Westprint Oodnadatta Track Map and Hema Central Australia Map.

The Old Ghan Railway Trail

The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail loosely follows the old rail line between Oodnadatta and Alice Springs. There are places where the road diverges significantly from the rail line whilst in others you are driving on top of the original alignment. It passes through the beautiful outback country, visits a couple of Aboriginal communities, and takes you to the remains of rail sidings and buildings.

Interpretive signs at these sites tell of the history and significant events that took place along the line. This two-part article will have you well-prepared for an adventure into the past.

Vehicle Preparation

The track is very accessible to well-prepared 4WD or SUV vehicles with a reasonable ground clearance, keeping in mind that rain can turn these tracks into mush very quickly and sections of corrugations are an ever-present occurrence on outback tracks. So keep a close eye on weather conditions and delay heading into remote areas if stranding is a possibility.

Bonus Tip: Keep those headlights on, reduce tyre pressure, and take it easy on the speed. A friend of Snowys, Cooper Tires have a very useful guide to appropriate tyre pressures in a range of terrains that you should check out prior to setting off.

Camping, Fuel, and Important Info

There is no significant accommodation between Oodnadatta and Alice Springs so have your camping gear organised. You will be travelling through pastoral property and although there are many camping opportunities, don’t camp anywhere near stock watering points or move large distances off the track.

Between May and October is the best time to visit when days are commonly sunny and in the mid 20’s, but nights can be cold and down to around zero, so be prepared.

The only fuel available is at Finke and Maryvale. These stores are only open on weekdays and Saturday morning.

An excellent brochure on the Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail is available from:

Central Australia Visitor Information Centre
Phone: (08) 8952 5800 | Website

South Australian Visitor and Travel Centre
Phone: 1300 655 276 | Website

An excellent resource on the latest road conditions around this area is provided by the famous Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta. And the South Australian and Northern Territory Governments provide information on road closures.

Oodnadatta to Alice Springs – A Typical Trip

Oodnadatta

This small townhouse a significant aboriginal community, government workers, and business people. Among Oodnadatta’s claims to fame is being one of the hottest places in Australia – not somewhere suitable for tourists in the height of summer, but generally a delight in the cooler months.

An excellent museum is housed in the old railway station and the famous Pink Roadhouse beckons for re-fuelling and an Oodnaburger and chips.

On a recent trip, after significant rains had hit the area, the mozzies were diabolical in and around town so ensure you have a plentiful supply of repellent and good fly nets.

The famous Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta at the start of the Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail. Don’t forget to buy fuel here.

Accommodation

• The Pink Roadhouse runs a caravan park with powered and unpowered sites and cabins.
• There is a free camping area adjacent to the railway station museum.

Oodnadatta to Hamilton Station

Generally well maintained, this 119km stretch of mainly sandy track moves well to the west of the old line. The line itself moves through a number of station properties but there is no significant rail infrastructure remaining. Along the way, a large clay pan will be encountered.

After rain, this can be a boggy mess and remains so for some time. If detour signs are up don’t be tempted to ignore them. The detour skirts around to the west of the claypan on higher ground.

Old Ghan Sites

The first significant site requires a 19km detour from Hamilton Station along the public access route to Dalhousie Springs. At this point, you will find Pedirka Siding with significant rail ruins in place. Building construction is no longer the beautiful stonework found south of Oodnadatta, but rather a far more utilitarian concrete is now used.

Continuing on this track leads to Dalhousie Springs and the Simpson Desert going further east, or through Mt Dare and onto Finke heading north. The track can be very rough, requires slow going and can be quite treacherous after rain, and is only suitable for well-prepared, high clearance 4WDs.

Accommodation

• Hamilton Station has a bush camping area with toilets and fire pits. Look for the sign to the homestead to book in.

A Detour to Dalhousie Springs

You may not want to cross the Simpson Desert, but a trip to Dalhousie Springs and a leisurely dip in the hot waters bubbling up from the Great Artesian Basin is an experience not to be forgotten. (Kevin Leslie has previously written about Dalhousie. See here: part one and two.) However, this is 67km of rough bush track, only advisable to high clearance 4WDs.

It is slow going and you should allow at least a couple of hours for the journey. There is a campground with toilets and showers, so factor in an overnight stay to get the best out of the experience.

Also keep in mind your fuel consumption, ensuring you have enough for the return journey and the trip north to Finke – the next refuelling opportunity.

Dalhousie Springs – well worth the 67km detour and an overnight stop. Image: Kevin Leslie.

Hamilton Station to Finke (Aputula)

The track continues north, still some distance west of the rail line with sandy and gravelly conditions predominant. After travelling 68km, the magnificent Eringa Waterhole will greet you. What a great place to camp. There is normally water here year round and the old Eringa Homestead ruins are nearby.

Travel another 24km to become reunited with the Old Ghan line at Abminga (see below). After crossing the rail line, the track now takes us to the north-east toward New Crown Station and converging with the Ghan track again 87km later at Finke.

Old Ghan Sites

• Abminga has significant infrastructure intact, including buildings, stockyards and water tank. You can spend some time here looking around and there are plenty of flat spots to camp.
• Finke is an Aboriginal community with Ghan infrastructure along the western edge of the town, adjacent to the store. Fuel and supplies are available from the store which also stocks some excellent local art. There is no accommodation or camping in the town.

Camping at Lambert’s Centre, the Geographical Centre of Australia.

A Detour to Lambert’s Centre – The Geographical Centre of Australia

Want to stand in the exact centre of Australia, geographically speaking? This can be done with a short detour from Finke. Take the road to Kulgera for 20km where you will find a sign to Lambert’s Centre. The track heads north, is sandy, narrow and winds around considerably for about 15km, to get to the spot – 25° 36′ 36.4″ S, 134° 21′ 17.3″ E.

The Royal Geographical Society of Australasia calculated the spot in 1988 as a Bicentennial Project and the point named after Dr Bruce Lambert, who was a former Director of the National Division of Mapping. There is a plaque to mark the spot. This is recommended for high clearance 4WDs only.

Finke to Maryvale (Titjikala)

From Finke you will travel 121km along the Old Ghan line, sometimes on top of it. Generally firm and sandy with some gibbers and corrugations, this is a good outback track. It is not necessary to go into Maryvale but the track to Chambers Pillar begins here and it would be a pity to come this far without taking the 114km round trip detour. Fuel is also available at Maryvale if required.

Finke to Alice Springs is also the route of the annual Finke Desert Race. Held on the June long weekend, motorbikes, quads and buggies thrash their way along a narrow dirt track that can be seen adjacent to the main track.

The roughness of this track has to be seen to be believed and the ability of body and machine to withstand the punishment is amazing.

Relics at Finke. There is still plenty of old infrastructures to be seen along the Old Ghan Railway.

Old Ghan Sites

After leaving Finke the track is either on or adjacent to the Old Ghan line. After about 16km you pass through the Musgrave siding area (25° 26′ 38.3″ S 134° 32′ 32.9″ E). Unless you stop and look you would not realise this was an old siding. A wander around will reward with various rail paraphernalia.

The turnoff into Rumbalara is 28km north of Finke (25° 19′ 39.2″ S 134° 29′ 35″ E). Take the sandy track west over the main sand dune for about 2km to reach the very significant siding remains. This was a major stock loading siding with a turning triangle quite obvious.

After travelling a further 21km the area of Mount Squire is passed through (25° 11′ 42.7″ S 134° 25′ 42.2″ E). The road is between the two rail line embankments but not easily recognised unless you stop and wander around.

At 64km north of Finke the ruins of Engoordina will come into sight. The stark white concrete walls stand out and an information board provides the history of this area.

Travel a further 23km and a large railway water tank comes into view, heralding your arrival at Bundooma. The tank is the only significant remains, but a wander around enables a vision of what once was.

The old water tank at Bunbooma.

After leaving Bundooma and travelling 28km a decision is required. Take the detour to Maryvale and Chambers Pillar or continue along the Ghan line towards Alice Springs. If continuing north the next significant site is Rodinga, another 14km beyond the Maryvale turnoff.

A Detour to Chambers Pillar

A narrow track heads west for 8km, arriving at Maryvale (Titjikala) through the not-so-picturesque town dump. Fuel is available at this Aboriginal community and there is an art gallery featuring the work of local artists. The 45kms from Maryvale to Chambers Pillar takes you through a mixture of sandy and gibber-strewn track, including a quite steep and stony section as you pass over the Charlotte Range.

Chambers Pillar and the surrounding rock formations are impressive and the colours spectacular, especially at sunrise and sunset. There are two excellent camping areas with well-defined campsites including fire pits and clean toilets.

Chambers Pillar is a must visit, especially in the early morning light or at sunset.

This imposing lump of sandstone was first seen by Europeans in April 1860 on John McDouall Stuart’s first expedition to attempt to cross the country from south to north. He named it after James Chambers, one of the sponsors of the attempted crossing.

The area is of significance in the Aboriginal Dreamtime, involving the gecko ancestor Itirkawara. A brochure detailing the significance of this area can be found here.

Maryvale to Alice Springs

Once back at Maryvale there is a 14km trip back to the Old Ghan Heritage Trail and the remains of Rodinga. From here you will pass through or near a number of old sidings as you head to Alice Springs, another 101km north. The track is sandy, occasionally corrugated, but in good condition.

Old Ghan Sites

Rodinga was a significant siding and building ruins remain just near the track.

23km north of Rodinga is the site of the Deep Well siding (24° 21′ 26.93″ S 134° 03′ 9.45″ E). Now a date plantation and in private hands – it is not accessible to the public.

Ewaninga siding is 65km north of Rodinga and a spot with quite a lot of infrastructure remaining. This is due to the Ghan Preservation Society based in Alice Springs that at one time ran tourist trains to this site.

The home of the Ghan Preservation Society is found at McDonnell siding, 8km south of Alice Springs in well-preserved railway buildings. The area is also home to the magnificent National Transport Hall of Fame. You can easily spend several hours wandering around here.

The new Ghan at the Alice Springs train station. 

Distances and Services

Oodnadatta to Alice Springs is 529km, with two Aboriginal communities at Finke and Maryvale providing unleaded and diesel fuel on weekdays and Saturday mornings only. There are numerous camping opportunities near old rail ruins, at creek crossings, and Eringa waterhole.

The Last Bit – What Else You Might Need To Know

Permits

No permits are required to travel or camp along any sections of this trek. A camp fee is payable at Chambers Pillar.

Key Contacts

Police Station, Oodnadatta – (08) 8670 7805
Pink Roadhouse, Oodnadatta – (08) 8670 7822
Aputula Community Store, Finke – (08) 8956 0968
Titjikala Store, Maryvale – (08) 8965 0793

The post The Old Ghan Railway – North From Oodnadatta appeared first on Snowys Blog.

South Australia’s Department of Environment, Water and Natural Resources’ map of the Witjira National Park. Available as a PDF here.

William Creek to Dalhousie Springs

We had been travelling all day and were looking for a nice place to camp. We did find one spot beside a dry creek bed amongst some trees, which would have been perfect, but the remains of an old broken windmill as it squeaked and groaned with the breeze would have kept us awake all night. So we decided to push on to the Algebuckina Bridge where we made camp just as the shadows started to lengthen.

At 580m it was the longest bridge in South Australia until the Seaford suburban railway bridge across the Onkaparinga River was built in 2014.  It opened in 1892 and cost 60,000 pounds to build. It makes a nice campsite next to the Neales River which is flood prone.

It’s amazing to see the bridge sitting there high above the river and to think that in 1974 a severe flood almost had the water touching the bridge decks.

A pretty sunset behind the Algebuckina Bridge.

On the road to Dalhousie Springs

We were almost at Oodnadatta and the road going into town showed the worst flood damage so far, with deep tyre grooves each side of the track. Here we took on some fuel and asked about track conditions ahead. Being told all roads were open, we headed off to Hamilton Station. This is where you turn off and head out to Dalhousie Springs. The road deteriorated almost immediately with bad corrugations and rocky surfaces.

We were traversing gibber (desert pavement) country now, and sometimes the gibbers looked smoother than the track. There are a number of floodways and rocky outcrops along this section, so don’t push your vehicle too hard. This very remote country so the last thing you need out here is a serious breakdown. The final 70km took us around 2 hours and we were very glad to see the ruins of the Dalhousie Homestead come into view.

Dalhousie Station originally covered an area of some 4500 square kilometres and was acquired by the state government in 1985, to make up Witjira National Park. It was another 12km to the springs.

No cool, refreshing dip at Dalhousie. More like a hot tub. But refreshing nonetheless. 

Arriving at the campground

Arriving at the campground you may expect to be coming into some sort of an oasis. In a way you are, but the campground is pretty basic. It is after all on the edge of a large clay pan, on the edge of the Simpson Desert. There are toilets that are worked with a foot pump and cold showers.

I didn’t see anyone use the showers while we were there. Why would you when there was a 38-degree hot bath the size of an Olympic swimming pool that never got cold.

Any sort of soap is banned from being used in the springs which is understandable. So, most people just float around soaking. Water is piped to various taps around the camping area but it is bore water and may not taste the best. It is better to have your own drinking water. There are large rainwater tanks beside the toilet block if you are running low.

Fires are banned in the Witjira National Park, as they are in the Simpson Desert, even if you bring in your own firewood. Fallen timber is scarce, so what there is needs to be left on the ground as it provides shelter for small animals and insects.

Swimming in the springs

After selecting a campsite we quickly changed and headed for a swim. There are steps to allow easy access, and while the first part is deep, as you make your way into the centre it gets much shallower. It is a bit hot when you first enter the water, but you quickly acclimatise to it and then you can just relax.

Then you meet the fish. There are a several species of fish in the springs, the one you will undoubtedly see is the Dalhousie goby. This little fish, all 2.5cm of it, will love to come up to you and nibble away at any dry skin on your body. They can be very persistent, a bit like flies but under water. They don’t hurt, it is just rather unusual.

You will need a Desert Parks Pass if you are heading into the Simpson, but you can pay a day rate if you are only staying at the springs. We stayed for two and a half days just taking it easy, having an occasional hot dip.

There are walking trails here that take you around the springs, and also across the claypan to some mound springs further away. You can’t swim in these but it is an interesting walk as there are quite a few springs in the area. The scenery is typical of the outback so make sure you bring your camera.

The main pool at Dalhousie is large and is teaming with little goby fish who will invariably exfoliate your body.

The last afternoon

On our last afternoon, I gave the Land Rover and the caravan a check over to make sure all was okay. I also let some more air out of the tyres. I had 25 psi in them coming out so I dropped them down to 20 psi to see if it improved the ride.

It did seem to make a difference as we drove out the next day, and although we didn’t travel a whole lot faster it was a more comfortable ride.

Backtracking to Oodnadatta, then heading towards Coober Pedy

We backtracked to Oodnadatta, then made our way to Coober Pedy. This road was much better and we were averaging about 80km/h, and although there was still the occasional floodway to watch out for, we actually made good time. I’ve done a lot of travelling in Australia and this would have to be the most barren country I have ever seen. For as far as the eye could see there was nothing. Slightly undulating and featureless gibber plains. Here again, the recent rains have made a change to the landscape with carpets of yellow and white wildflowers coming up between the gibbers.

Coober Pedy

Arriving in Coober Pedy, it isn’t half obvious that this is a mining town. Everywhere you look there is an assortment of mining equipment. Some of it was rather old looking and dilapidated, and others looked a little newer. But it is in almost every yard we passed.

We had been to Coober Pedy a number of times so we only stopped long enough to refuel and pump the tyres up to around 40 psi before heading down the highway for about 12km to a large free camp that was well off the road.

The sunset that evening was amazing, with some great colours that made everything glow a warm golden colour. It was a lovely spot with a number of other vehicles here as well.

The last leg – following the Stuart Highway

We were now on the last leg and followed the Sturt Highway down to Port Augusta. So far we had good weather on this trip. But when we arrived at Port Augusta it got rather cloudy then started raining. We went about another 40km to Mambray Creek campground in the Mt Remarkable National Park, for our last night.

The Land Rover and caravan went extremely well, with the only failure being a clearance light lens that went missing off the van on our first day. We did the whole trip in 8 days and travelled almost 2500km. It was a good trip, but we had some long days on the road.

If you are considering heading up to Dalhousie Springs, then give yourself plenty of time. That way you can enjoy the journey more and truly appreciate the beauty of the outback.

Have you ever travelled out to Dalhousie Springs? Any travel tips for other keep outback tourers? 

The post A Quick Trip to Dalhousie Springs – Part 2 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We were on the last section of the track to Dalhousie Springs, and the warm waters of the springs would be just the thing to ease the dust and rattles from our bones.

A room with a view for this wee bird.

Where is Dalhousie Springs?

Dalhousie Springs is situated about 190 km’s northeast of Oodnadatta in the Witjira National Park. A great spot for those who are either about to head across, or coming back from the Simpson Desert. Immersing yourself in the warm 38-degree waters of the springs is a soothing and relaxing way to ease muscles and bones after many kilometres of rough dusty roads, it is a hard place to drive past without stopping even for a quick dip.

Adelaide to William Creek

On a cool and overcast morning we left our home in Adelaide, negotiating the traffic snarls and longing for the open highway. First, we made our way through the wine region of the Clare Valley – a fine place for a spot of wine tasting and certainly worth a visit.

It is an easy drive from Adelaide for day trip, or better still stay overnight and make a weekend of it.

A fair trip from Adelaide at around 1,350km but well worth it. 

Beginning the trip

We had limited time and wanted to make the Ikara-Flinders Ranges before day’s end, so we travelled on through a mixture of grazing land and crops of wheat and other cereals, before refuelling at Hawker, then on to Parachilna. Here we turned off the main highway and travelled along a good dirt road for 10 kms to Parachilna Gorge.

The Land Rover easily walked over the stones where we found a lovely camp spot beside a dry riverbed amongst river gums and between rugged hills. We set up camp, which in a small caravan takes only a few minutes, got a fire going, and cooked our dinner in the camp oven. Finishing the meal with a glass or two of red wine, we had a peaceful evening and listened to the silence of the Australian bush, before turning in.

The next morning

The next morning we topped up with fuel at Leigh Creek, before continuing on past Lyndhurst. Then onto the dirt road, where a little further on we stopped to look at the ruins of Farina. This historic town was once the rail head for the northern line until it was extended to Maree. There were 600 people living in Farina in the 1800s, however today Farina is in ruins.

The only usable building is the underground bakery which is manned by volunteers during school holidays in the cooler months, turning out home-baked pies and pasties and the like for travellers on the dusty roads.

There is a campground just past the ruins with shady trees and flushing toilets. It’s on Farina Station which is private property, and there is a small fee for camping. But to visit the ruins, it’s free.

On your way to Dalhousie, or any of the great outback tracks, stopping in at Farina is a must. To think it use to be a town of 600 people! 

The Oodnadatta Track was closed only a few weeks before because of rain, so we weren’t sure what we would find. There was evidence of some boggy sections but it was mostly dry by the time we went through. However, in some places water was still evident in the hollows, and gutters beside the road.

Maree – the start of the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Track

Maree marks the start of both the Birdsville Track and the Oodnadatta Track. It’s also where the late Tom Kruse, the Birdsville postman, used to live. He came to fame when he appeared in a documentary called The Back Of Beyond, made in 1954, which showed how he battled heat, dust, breakdowns, and occasional floods to deliver the mail and freight to remote stations between Maree and Birdsville.

One of his trucks, a Blitz wagon, sits on the old railway station platform as a tribute to him. There are also a couple of old diesel locomotives, which unfortunately have been vandalised, and a couple of railway trucks. In 1980 the railway line (built in the 1920s) from Maree to Alice Springs closed when a new line was built much further west. Then, in 1986, the line from the Leigh Creek coalfields to Maree closed, and the town was no longer connected by rail.

Past Maree there lots of reminders of the original railway line beside the road. Most prominent of these reminders are the earthworks which the railway sat on, still plainly visible. There is also the occasional bridge, and the ruins of most of the sidings, stations, and water towers.

Coward Springs

One such place is Coward Springs, where the station has been restored and is now a museum. There is also camping available, amongst shady desert oaks, with pit toilets, and showers. Both the shower and toilet blocks are made from old railway sleepers.

The showers require a small fire to be lit under a boiler outside the shower block for hot water. Wood is supplied from the remains of railway sleepers. It doesn’t take long before you have a nice hot shower.

Once it’s started it doesn’t take much to keep it going. There is also a small swimming hole where you can go for a dip in the warm bore water.

Camping at places like this is what outback touring is all about.

Passing Lake Eyre

Just before William Creek is where you turn off to go out to Lake Eyre. It’s a pretty rough track and takes around one and a half hours to cover the 60kms. I had been out there on two previous occasions and both times the lake had water in it. The colours out here are amazing with spectacular sunrises and sunsets. Scenes of the lake reflecting these colours with various birdlife flying past and this vast body of water stretching to the horizon in such a barren landscape is a memorable experience.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the lake this time. But we did see Lake Eyre South from the viewing area which is located before Coward Springs. After William Creek, the track deteriorated a little. Mostly corrugations and rocky sections, which meant I had to keep the speed down.

This was the true outback – dry and with little vegetation. The recent rains did have a positive effect though, with grasses and wildflowers popping up from the barren surrounding country. Large areas of yellow flowers somehow giving a softening effect to the dry land.

Read the second part of Kev and Linda’s journey here. 

The post A Quick Trip to Dalhousie Springs – Part 1 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Located in the upper reaches of Ikara-Flinders Ranges (yep, the name has officially changed), allow for an 8-hour drive from Adelaide via Leigh Creek. Despite what you might think when you rock up outside the motel reception, you definitely don’t need a big accessory-packed 4WD to see the best bits of Arkaroola.

The family sedan should be more than capable. The road in from Leigh Creek can be rough near the start but usually gets better as you go along. Just know where your spare tyre is and how to change it!

There are multiple accommodation options to stay at Arkaroola, from lovely motel units to bush camping on a budget, and you can get a good feed at the restaurant and bar.

My Top 5 Things To Do:

1. Acacia Ridge Hike

If you do only one thing at Arkaroola, I reckon it has to be the 3-hour Acacia Ridge Hike. Walking along the ridge, which parallels the main road into Arkaroola, you see the Village dwarfed by the surrounding mountains.

The 556m summit has outstanding 360-degree views all the way out to Lake Frome. Rocky terrain so ensure that you have sturdy hiking boots.

The view from Acacia Ridge

2. Ridgetop Tour

A baptism of fire for those who’ve never been ‘proper’ 4WDing – some parts will make you wonder ‘can you really drive a vehicle up that?’. Not cheap for a big family, but definitely worth it for excellent local knowledge from tour guides and the view from Siller’s Lookout (only accessible on this tour, not in your own car). An experience you won’t forget in a hurry.

Sillers Lookout – Not a bad vantage point, I’m sure you’ll agree?

3. Tillite Gorge Walk

This relaxed walk takes you along the bed of Kingsmill Creek, shaded by big gum trees, until you reach spectacular Tillite Gorge. Ask for directions at the reception, and be sure to take a water bottle and hat.

Hiking the Tillite Gorge, along the bed of Kingsmill Creek

4. Sunset drive to Arkaroola Waterhole

If photography and wildlife spotting are your thing, then drive down to Arkaroola Waterhole around sunset. This is a favourite spot of the elusive Yellow-footed rock wallaby – be quiet and keep a sharp eye on the rocky cliff faces.

5. Flight with Doug

If you thought Arkaroola was good from the ground, then wait until you see it from the air! Owner and experienced pilot Doug Sprigg regularly conducts scenic flights over Arkaroola and Lake Frome.

As well as putting the meaning of ‘remote’ into perspective when you fly over the Village, you’ll receive a deeper understanding of the history, geology, flora and fauna of Arkaroola from Doug’s expert commentary.

Flying over Arkaroola with Mr Doug Sprigg. Look at those ripply hills. 

There’s plenty more to see and do at Arkaroola and the nearby Gammon Ranges National Park. Pop into the Arkaroola reception, let them know where you’re going and ask for information about visiting the rest of the area.

Head to Snowys before you go to stock up on all your camping and travel equipment as well!

Have you visited Arkaroola? What would you add to this ‘to do’ list?

The post Top 5 Things to do at Arkaroola appeared first on Snowys Blog.

It also has a rich and interesting history. From 1840 to 1880 the area was known as ‘Government Farm’ and had a variety of uses including wattle-bark cutting, the manufacture of rabbit control poison, stocking of cattle and horses, a seedling nursery, summer residence for the Governor of South Australia, and a stop-over for Gold Escorts from Victoria.

It was proclaimed Belair National Park in 1891 after a plan to sell it off was opposed by the public. It is one of the oldest National Parks in the world and the first in South Australia.

Nowadays Belair offers loads of opportunities for getting out and enjoying the outdoors, and its close proximity to Adelaide (20-minute drive from CBD) makes a perfect place for a day-trip.

Here’s a pick of the best things to do:

Belair for families

• The Adventure Playground is an awesome place to play with a fort, underground tunnels, flying fox and Giant’s Steps! There is plenty of grassy space, picnic tables and BBQs.
• Playford Lake (the Duck Pond) is an easy walk, great for kids. There’s a little jetty and some bench seats to relax on while the kids feed the ducks (take some stale bread).
• Koala Spotting – you’ll surely see one or two! Look either up, or down to see their oval-shaped eucalyptus droppings on the ground, a sure sign there’s a koala in a tree nearby.
• Walk through Echo Tunnel on the Waterfall Hike, passing underneath the Adelaide-Melbourne train line. Take a torch and allow 1 hour.

Belair for the adventurous

• Tackle the Adventure Loop mountain bike track. A 12km loop from the park’s entrance begins on easy fire-trail and turns into some sweet single-track with slippery rocks and roots trying to acquaint your stack-hat with the ground. Good fun for the confident mountain biker with intermediate experience. Allow 2 hours.
• The Waterfall Hike one of the Park’s best trails, takes you from a lush valley up to the upper and lower waterfalls. You’ll encounter steep stair climbs to test your aerobic capacity, and the odd cliff to challenge your acrophobia, all while walking through the refreshing scrubby forest. Allow 2.5 hours.
• Try your luck at finding Amphitheatre Rock! A cool overhang/cave formation ripe for exploring. Drive up to Karka Pavilion and walk along Melville Gully Road. Allow 1.5 hours.

NP Commissioner’s white Cottage in Belair was once used as a “shack” to stay overnight on weekends.

Belair for History

• Commissioner’s Hut at Gold Escort Ground was once used
  by the Commissioners of the park as a “shack” to stay overnight on weekends.
• Old Government House is a beautiful Victorian-era building surrounded by a cottage garden. Originally built in around 1860 for the Governor of South Australia, the House is open for guided tours Sundays and Public holidays 1-4 pm.
• Sparke’s Gully Cherry Plantation was established in remembrance of soldiers in WW1. Take the left road at Karka Pavilion and it’s a short walk to the cherries. Continue for 5 minutes along the same walking track to the Native Pine Plantation, a memorial to soldiers fallen in the Second World War.

Belair for amazing scenery

• A great view of the Blackwood Hills can be had by walking up Queen’s Jubilee Drive from the State Flora Nursery.
• Grassy Long Gully is magical on a cold misty morning. Drive-in at 8 am, park at the Friend’s Centre, and watch the sunlight spill into the valley. In the afternoon Long Gully is a great spot for a picnic too, with BBQ shelters dotted throughout the area.
• Any of the Park’s walking trails (e.g. Microcarpa & Valley Loop hikes, Lorikeet & Heritage Tree walks) are great to rejuvenate yourself while ambling through scrub and bushland.

Enter Belair National Park through the Main Gate on Upper Sturt Road.

Getting to Belair

If you don’t want to pay the vehicle entry fee of $12 ($9.50 with concession), then car parking is available outside the park office or along the nearby side streets. Attractions like Playford Lake are within an easy walk of the entrance.

Alternatively, use any of the other gates along Sheoak Road and Upper Sturt Road. These are foot/bike access only but usually have space for parking and are a good option to get to some of the hikes.

Download a Park Map here.

With such a variety of activities to do and things to see, Belair National Park is a must-visit for your next day trip to the Adelaide Hills.

What you’ll need

Although not a massive area and relatively close to civilisation, it is still important to go prepared on any bushwalk.

Get yourself a good daypack, some sturdy shoes and plenty of water and snacks. Always carry a first aid kit, just in case, and if you find hiking hard on your knees, consider investing in a set of hiking poles and you’ll be forever converted to their benefits.

If you’ve been to Belair, then what’s your favourite trail?

The post Bushwalk Belair – SA’s First National Park appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Accommodation

This trip best suits camping, with no commercial accommodation available along the track. However, for options at either end you have:

• Ceduna – all forms of accommodation.
• Goog’s Lake – good camping spots, none with facilities.
• Tarcoola – now largely a ghost town, this was once a thriving community and serviced a gold mine nearby. This is now the spot where the Ghan rail line heads north and the Indian Pacific line heads west. It may be possible to camp on the town outskirts.
• Kingoonya – an old railway settlement that has been largely abandoned. However, the pub has been revitalised and is well worth a stop. Some accommodation is available as is a camping area. Check out the revamped Kingoonya Hotel.
• Glendambo – on the Stuart Highway, there is a motel and caravan park.
• Mount Ive Station – in the Gawler Ranges and with access to Lake Gairdner, this station provides camping as well as stone cottages and shearer’s quarters Get more information on Mt Ive Station here.

Preparation

The actual track is in an isolated area, is narrow, sandy and crosses many dunes, some quite steep.

Like all outback travel, top class preparation and self-sufficiency are the keys to an enjoyable experience providing positive memories for years to come.

Here are some major factors to consider:

• Food – stock up at Ceduna and carry all food required to at least get you to the next major town, with a couple of days extra supplies in case of breakdown. This is most likely to be Coober Pedy if continuing north or Port Augusta if returning south.
• Water – don’t rely on any access to water along the way, especially drinking water. Carry all you need, again ensuring extra in case of breakdown. Supplies can be replenished at Glendambo.
• Shelter – Apart from the accommodation options previously mentioned, there are numerous spots to camp along the way. Flies can be a real problem during the day, especially in warm weather. Fly nets are a must to help maintain your sanity. See Snowys for all the gear to combat the dreaded flies.
• Fires – campfires are allowed most of the year, but firewood can be scarce. Carry your own.
• Fuel – There is no fuel between Ceduna and Kingoonya or Glendambo so ensure you carry enough to cover this distance, with a good margin for error, keeping in mind the increased fuel consumption resulting from sand driving.
• Tyres – When on Goog’s Track itself reduce tyre pressures considerably to make dune crossings easier and to avoid damage to the track. Check out the Cooper Tires website for their excellent guide to tyre pressures.
• Communication – there is no reliable mobile phone coverage along the track so carry a good UHF radio as a minimum.
• Vehicle – have your vehicle thoroughly checked before leaving and ensure your mechanic knows where you are heading so that everything is looked at. Be very aware of carrying as little gear as possible to avoid overloading your vehicle. Try to pack light gear on a roof rack to keep the centre of gravity low. Ensure you do not exceed your vehicles legal Gross Vehicle Mass as insurance can be voided if an accident occurs as a result of overloading.
• Personal – fly nets are a must – don’t leave home without them! Good insect repellent is another must, especially if there is any groundwater laying around. The mozzies can be a real problem. Have lightweight clothes that cover arms and legs and always wear a hat in the sun – you can burn very quickly, even in the winter.
• Caravans and Camper Trailers – a good sturdy camper trailer could undertake Goog’s Track but may cause difficulties over some of the steeper dunes. Caravans should not tackle this track.
• Safety – have a sand flag mounted high on the vehicle to make it as visible as possible to any on-coming traffic. Scan on your UHF radio to get some warning if there are other vehicles around and make contact to organise where to pass.

Some Tips and Bush Etiquette

• Approaching vehicles – to avoid windscreen damage, slow down when another vehicle is approaching.
• Keep headlights on – make your vehicle visible, especially on dusty tracks.
• Station tracks – do not travel down station tracks, even to find a camping spot. This is like driving into someone’s driveway in the city.
• Camping spots – never camp near stock watering points as this scares stock away, leaving them without water.
• Driving through water – After significant rain you will come across large pools of water spreading across the road. The temptation is to drive over to the edge as it appears the water is shallower. Don’t. The pool exists because the road surface under the water is hard, but the edges are generally soft and often consist of deep mud. Use a low gear and drive steadily right through the middle of the pool.
• Animal hazards – keep a constant eye out for wandering stock and kangaroos and emus can also be a hazard so keep speed down and avoid having to make sudden direction changes on dirt road. Quite often large wedge-tail eagles can be seen feasting on a dead carcass on the road. Slow right down and sound your horn. These birds, especially with a belly full of fresh meat, are slow to fly off and potentially can fly right into your vehicle causing significant damage and trauma to your passengers. One way to occupy your passengers is to rotate sitting in the front passenger seat with this person having the important role of official animal spotter.
• If in trouble – never leave your vehicle if broken down. Many have perished trying to walk to help, generally becoming disoriented and dying of dehydration. Your vehicle contains all of your supplies, provides shelter and is far easier to see by a search party. Use whatever communication system you have to try and get help. Surrounding stations often monitor the emergency UHF channel and usually use a dedicated channel to communicate with their workers. Cycle through channels giving a mayday message and wait for a reply before trying the next channel.

Where To From Here

There are a number of alternatives to either head home or continue on to other places.

• North
  • Once the Trans-Continental Rail Line has been reached, the only alternative initially is to head east. The road that follows the rail line to the west has now been closed to private vehicles and is only used by rail maintenance crews. The track east leads to Kingoonya and on to Glendambo on the Stuart Highway. From there it is north to Coober Pedy.
• South
  • Option 1 – head east to Kingoonya and then south where a track weaves through Lake Gairdner National Park, past Lake Acraman and onto either Wirrulla or Yantanabie on the Eyre Highway.
  • Option 2 – take the same track from Kingoonya as detailed in option 1 but take the track south-east from Hiltaba, leading to the Gawler Ranges National Park. To visit the park take the track south at Yardea Station. If not wanting to visit the National Park, continue on this track past Thuriga and Buckleboo Stations meeting the Eyre Highway at Kimba.
  • Option 3 – once again take the track south from Kingoonya for 95km, taking the left fork at this point. This track leads on to Mt Ive Station and eventually meets the Eyre Highway at Iron Knob.
• East
  • Head east to Kingoonya and continue on to the Stuart Highway at Glendambo. The highway south will lead to Pimba, nearby Woomera and Port Augusta.
• West
  • There are no tracks west from this point.

Distances and Services

Fuel: U = unleaded D = diesel L = LPG

Accommodation: CP = caravan park H = hotel/motel C = cabin

Download the Goog’s Track Travel Advice PDF

Maps

Hema Googs Track Guide

Have you got a tale from Googs Track, tell us about it in the comments below.

The post Goog’s Track Part 2 – Travel Advice appeared first on Snowys Blog.

To travel Goog’s Track takes you to quite a different area of South Australia, the far west coast. More associated with the pristine waters of Eyre Peninsula and whale-watching in the Great Australian Bight, this is also the stepping off point for the now famous Goog’s Track. The track is usually travelled from south to north starting 36km north of Ceduna, continuing north traversing many sandhills until reaching the Trans-Continental rail line west of Tarcoola.

In the main, it is a narrow, single lane sandy track that many liken to the Simpson Desert. It is probably not a bad test to undertake before a Simpson crossing. It may well whet the appetite for more, or help you decide that 1000+ sandhill crossings are a little more than you can bear. This is definitely high clearance 4WD territory so don’t attempt it in any other type of vehicle. Camper trailers can traverse the track, however, difficulties can be encountered getting over some sandhills. This is definitely NOT a place to take a caravan.

Although the track itself is relatively short (150km) and can be traversed in a day, a couple of days at least should be set aside to cover this distance. Just to get to the start is an 800km trek from Adelaide, and once Goog’s Track has been traversed, there are some major decisions about where to from there.

This is a journey requiring at least a week to allow full enjoyment of the environment and to ensure that some of the beautiful spots along the way are not missed.

What is Goog’s Track?

Goog’s Track is the result of the dream of one man, Stanley Gilbert John Denton, born to a west coast family in 1938. According to his wife, Jenny, the name Goog was bestowed on him early in life as a result of him selling eggs for his Mum.

As was often the case at the time, he left school at the age of 12 and worked with his father on the family farm at Denial Bay. After marrying Jenny in 1965, they moved to a property at Kalanbi, north of Ceduna, which they named “Lone Oak”.

The property was originally 5800 acres of scrub just north of the dog fence with thick bush and sandhills extending north to the east-west railway line. A family home was built and over the next 5 years Martin (nicknamed Dinger), Debbie and Jeffrey were born.

Unfortunately, a car accident claimed the life of Martin in 1993, aged 27, and Goog died in 1996, aged 58. In the early years whilst making improvements to the property a nagging thought came constantly to Goog’s mind as he gazed northward – “what’s out there?”

Eventually, curiosity got the better of him and a plan was hatched to push a track northward. Goog’s Track had begun. From 1973 the track inched forward, old tractors doing the hard work mainly on weekends with the whole family and often a number of friends in tow. Later a grader was purchased and at times a bulldozer was used to get through difficult areas.

For 3 years the battle against the sandhills and scrub continued until, in August 1976, the rail line was reached. Goog’s dream had been realised.

What’s Goog’s track is today

Goog’s track today is still a narrow, sandy, one-lane track that weaves across the sandhills. It is open to the public and is part of the Yumbarra Conservation Park and Yellabinna Regional Reserve.

Goog’s wife Jenny has written an excellent account of this amazing feat also documenting in detail the lifestyle the family lived in this isolated area.

“My Memories of Pushing Goog’s Track” is an excellent read and if planning to travel the track gives a superb background that will enhance your experience. It can be purchased at www.googstrack.com.

Getting There

From Port Augusta, it’s on to the Eyre Highway for a 470km journey to Ceduna. This is a good place to stop, fuel up and ensure you have all the provisions and water needed to travel Goog’s Track and beyond.

But, don’t rush to get there as some interesting and beautiful spots between Port Augusta and Ceduna are not to be missed.

Places to visit along Goog’s Track:

1. Kimba

155km west of Port Augusta. Have your photo taken with the big galah.

2. Gawler Ranges National Park

the 48km dirt road into this park heads north from the Eyre Highway just west of Wudinna. There are campgrounds within the park but facilities are very limited. Self-sufficiency in everything is the key. Interesting rock formations like the Organ Pipes are well worth seeing. Give yourself a couple of days to have a good look around this park.

3. Pildappa Rock

Take the track from Minnipa for 15km to see this large, wave-shaped rock, likened to Wave Rock in Western Australia. A campground is available right at the base of this natural wonder.

4. Streaky Bay

Stunning beauty and a fisher’s paradise, Streaky Bay is well worth the 70km detour off the Eyre Highway. Your trip to Ceduna can then continue along the Flinders Highway for the 110km along the coast to Ceduna. It is worth staying a few days here, even if fishing is not your thing. Around 60km south of Streaky Bay is the Point Labatt sea lion colony – well worth the visit, especially if there are children in the group. The Streaky Bay Caravan Park is right on the beach and a top place to stay.

Travelling Goog’s Track

Once you leave Ceduna you need to be completely self-contained as, depending on where you head after completing the track, there are no significant services for at least 300km, that being Kingoonya. This is a tiny settlement and even though fuel is sold at the hotel, it would be wise not to rely on it.

The next reliable fuel stop is at Glendambo, 43km further on. Also, keep in mind that fuel consumption will be significantly higher than normal due to the many dune crossings and the possible need to use low range.

Key Points Along The Track

The distance shown is from Ceduna. Follow the Eyre Highway from Ceduna towards Western Australia.

• 4km – Turn off to Goog’s Track

Leave the Eyre Highway and head north on Kalanbi Road leading to Goog’s Track.

• 27km – Dog Fence

At this point, you go through the dog fence. Ensure any gates are closed behind you.

There is a track along the fence. It is an offence to travel along this track and on a past trip, our group noticed traps set very close to the gate. This is not a good place to roam around, especially with children or dogs. Baits are also laid in the area. This is the official start of Goog’s Track.

• 29km – Lone Oak Homestead

The original Denton home is to the left of the track.

• 78km – Goog and Dinger Memorial

Stop and have a look at the memorial cairn erected in memory of the fantastic work of Goog and Dinger in constructing the track (31 34 02S, 133 55 43E).

It is at this point you take a track to the east for a few kilometres that leads to Goog’s Lake. This usually dry salt lake is a good camping spot, the only recognised one along the track. There are no facilities but plenty of room to set up camp.

• 151km – Turnoff to Mount Finke

Mount Finke is 6km to the west and worth a trip in (30 55 23S, 134 01 32E). You can take an alternative 7km track back out to Goog’s Track that will have you 4km north of the first turnoff.

• 169km – Dog Fence

You will come to the dog fence at this point where the track turns to the east.

• 173km – Dog Fence gate

Cross the dog fence at this point and head north towards the rail line.

• 188km – Malbooma and the Trans-Continental rail line

The track has been completed and now it’s time to decide where to from here.

Now that you know what to expect, check out Part 2 for travel advice for Goog’s track. 

The post Goog’s Track Part 1- South Australia’s Rugged West appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The first thing to know is that the highway is really a track – named after road builder Len Beadell‘s wife, the grand label is a reflection of his cheeky sense of humour.

The history of the Anne Beadell Highway

The track was constructed between 1953 – 1962 to service Woomera and atomic test sites in the area. It crosses the Great Victoria Desert with virtually no reliable water sources along the track and only one refuelling opportunity at Ilkurka Roadhouse, 170 kilometres west of the SA/WA border and 700 kilometres west of Coober Pedy.

Preparing for the track

The Anne Beadell offers some of the most isolated travelling and camping you could wish for. We were six days getting to Laverton and didn’t see another soul until day five. You need to be well prepared – stories of breakdowns, broken suspension and bogged vehicles abound. Travellers we met had worn out shock absorber mounting rubbers and broken brackets on a newly installed long-range fuel tank. This required some nifty strap work to hold it until they reached Kalgoorlie.

Vehicle and Fuel

A high clearance 4WD vehicle is essential, and while some people advise against towing a trailer, our Track Trailer Tvan had no problems with the terrain. We travelled with friends so we each had backup in case of trouble.

You will need to carry sufficient fuel for at least 700 km. It will be more if you take in some of the diversions off the track and consumption will vary for each vehicle and according to track conditions. Food and water provisions should last 10 – 11 days if you start at Coober Pedy, allow for longer in case of breakdowns.

Check your vehicle beforehand

Vehicle preparation is critical, so follow a comprehensive checklist for remote travelling. Make sure you carry a UHF, HF radio or satellite phone and detailed maps in addition to any GPS equipment. We bought the Outback Travellers Guide to the Anne Beadell Highway from Snowys. This was a great supplement to our in-car GPS and Hema Maps on my iPad.

The section from Coober Pedy to Mable Creek is renowned for severe corrugations. So we chose to go west from Adelaide on the Eyre Highway and join the track at Emu Junction via Maralinga to avoid the worst of them.

We camped two nights at Maralinga, topped up with diesel and took in a full day tour. This provided a fascinating insight into the bomb testings, the 4,000 people who worked there, and the impact on the Maralinga Tjarutja community – then and now.

South Australian section of the track

The South Australian section of the Anne Beadell Highway is a narrow, winding and sandy track. It undulates through small dunes and swales, between stretches of corrugations and long deep ruts, which thankfully were dry. We took it slowly, rarely driving above 30 km/hour through this section, a loose Anderson plug being the only repair.

It was a beautiful drive with sunny days, cold nights and early mornings. We saw wildflowers, red sand salt lakes and ever-changing vegetation. There was plenty of black oak woodland, spinifex, hakea and cypress woodland – often so close to the track it was like driving through hedgerows.

West of the border the road is smooth and wide and shows signs of regular grading. This might have something to do with the surrounding mining areas.

The track passes through Conservation Parks, Aboriginal Lands and Australian Defence areas. Permits are required for these various sections as well as for access to Maralinga, information can be found on the Shire of Laverton website.

Do you have an Anne Beadell Highway story to tell? Tell us in the comments section below.

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Accommodation

Lyndhurst – this is a tiny town with the pub running a small caravan park with some cabins and hotel rooms.

Montecollina Bore – this controlled bore allows some water to flow into a depression in the white sandhills. A good camping spot with plenty of space and flat areas. You can even have a dip in the warm water.

Strezlecki Creek Crossing – the point where the Strezlecki Creek crosses the Strezlecki Track provides some good camp spots along the banks of the creek. Look out for tracks along the creek line to find some good, flat and shady spots. Remember, never camp in the creek bed itself as flash flooding can occur due to rain some distance away.

Innamincka – For most people, coming to Innamincka is about camping along the Cooper and there are many great sites to make this possible. Other than in the Town Common, a Desert Parks Pass is required to camp anywhere in the Innamincka Regional Reserve.

Camp areas are well defined and listed in the material provided with the pass. The only camp in these defined areas as this country is very fragile and the Park Rangers do their best to protect this environment by enforcing the “camp in designated areas” rule.

If camping is not your thing, the Trading Post and hotel have some cabins and there is a motel in town. You should book ahead, especially in the cooler months, if you want this type of accommodation.

Preparation

The oil and gas industry is a 7 day a week, 24 hour a day industry, so the Strezlecki Track, although isolated and with no services, can be a busy place. The vehicle traffic swells considerably in the cooler months with the influx of tourists.

In most areas the track is wide and well maintained but, in many places quite dusty, so be very careful of on-coming traffic, especially large trucks. Never try to overtake a vehicle unless you have considerable forward vision.

Like all outback travel, top class preparation and self-sufficiency are the keys to an enjoyable experience providing positive memories for years to come. Here are some major factors to consider:

• Food – carry all food required to at least get you to Innamincka, with a couple of days extra supplies in case of breakdown. Innamincka has basic supplies available at the Trading Post, but don’t expect a great choice or much fresh food. Canned, dried and frozen are the main fare. The pub provides a good, hearty outback feed.
• Water – don’t rely on any access to water along the way, especially drinking water. Carry all you need, again ensuring extra in case of breakdown. Supplies can be replenished in Innamincka. Even though the Cooper is fresh water, don’t drink it unless it has been boiled first or water purification tablets used.
• Shelter – if you want cabins or hotel/motel accommodation in Innamincka, book ahead. Facilities are limited and can be booked out in the busy time of the year. The camping opportunities along the way and around Innamincka have been previously mentioned. Flies can be a real problem during the day so an insect-proof shelter, especially when trying to eat, can save many frayed tempers. Fly nets are a must to help maintain your sanity. See Snowys for all the gear to combat the dreaded flies.
• Fires – campfires are allowed most of the year, but firewood is rare. Carry your own.
• Fuel – There is no fuel between Lyndhurst and Innamincka so ensure you carry enough to cover this distance, with a good margin for error. Once on the dirt, keep a close eye on the fuel gauge so that any puncture of a fuel tank is picked up quickly. Have some hole repair material handy that suits the material of your fuel tank and can be used with fuel leaking.
• Tyres – gibbers are tough on tyres. If your tyres are getting towards the end of their life, replace them before leaving. Carry at least two spares, a tyre repair kit and compressor, and know how to use them. Reduce tyre pressures around 20% from normal bitumen pressures when on the dirt. Check out the Cooper Tires website for their excellent guide to tyre pressures.
• Communication – there is no reliable mobile phone coverage along the track and none around Innamincka, so carry a good UHF radio as a minimum.
• Vehicle – have your vehicle thoroughly checked before leaving and ensure your mechanic knows where you are heading so that everything is looked at. Be very aware of carrying as little gear as possible to avoid overloading your vehicle. Try to pack light gear on a roof rack to keep the centre of gravity low. Ensure you do not exceed your vehicles legal Gross Vehicle Mass as insurance can be voided if an accident occurs as a result of overloading.
• Personal – fly nets are a must – don’t leave home without them! Good insect repellent is another must, especially when camping near water where mozzies can be a real problem. Have lightweight clothes that cover arms and legs and always wear a hat in the sun – you can burn very quickly, even in the winter.
• Caravans and Camper Trailers – A good sturdy camper trailer will have no problems with this trek and yours will definitely not be the only one out there. Modern off-road caravans are becoming more common with the main track normally in pretty good condition. Some of the campsites along the Cooper can have quite deep ruts and washaways on the access tracks and whilst no problem for most vehicles, trailers or caravans can drag the rear end or get hung up on a drawbar in some of the more severe ruts.
• Safety – when camping near the creek be especially aware of slippery edges and sharp drops into the water. This is particularly the case with children. It is good practice to have children wear a personal floatation device any time they are near the water. Enforce this and even model the behaviour yourselves. We hear too many stories of children (and some adults) drowning in rivers.

Some Tips and Bush Etiquette

• Approaching vehicles – to avoid windscreen damage, slow down when another vehicle is approaching – you don’t want a smashed windscreen out here. You could be waiting many days to have a replacement freighted up and you cannot assume that the expertise to fit it will be available.
• Keep headlights on – enormous clouds of dust will follow a vehicle in many areas. Make yourself as visible as possible with headlights on to avoid a head-on crash.
• Road trains – long road trains are not uncommon on the track, producing incredible dust clouds and sometimes trailers can weave about quite a bit. Slow right down and pull over as close as possible to the left. Don’t speed up and move back onto the road until you can see if there is any more on-coming traffic. If travelling in a convoy, ensure the leader warns the group and makes clear their intentions to pull over.
• Station tracks – do not travel down station tracks, even to find a camping spot. This is like driving into someone’s driveway in the city.
• Camping spots – some of the best spots are alongside creeks where there are often some beautiful shady trees. Tracks can often be found leading to some flat, cleared areas. Never camp in a creek bed as heavy rains many kilometres away can result in a sudden rush of water down what is normally a dry creek bed. Beware of camping under over-hanging limbs of large gum trees. These are prone to break without notice and people have been killed by the falling limb. Never camp near stock watering points as this scares stock away, leaving them without water.
• Cook after dark – the flies will go to bed after dark, making life a lot easier. Have some good lights that can provide enough light over the campsite without having to be right next to you. You will attract insects to the light rather than you. A good headlight is great when cooking and you need some intense light over your mouth-watering delight.
• Driving through water – After significant rain, you will come across large pools of water spreading across the road. The temptation is to drive over to the edge as it appears the water is shallower. Don’t. The pool exists because the road surface under the water is hard, but the edges are generally soft and often consist of deep mud. Use a low gear and drive steadily right through the middle of the pool.
• Animal hazards – much of this track is un-fenced so keep a constant eye out for wandering stock. Kangaroos and emus can also be a hazard so keep speed down and avoid having to make sudden direction changes on dirt road. Quite often large wedge-tail eagles can be seen feasting on a dead carcass on the road. Slow right down and sound your horn. These birds, especially with a belly full of fresh meat, are slow to fly off and potentially can fly right into your vehicle causing significant damage and trauma to your passengers. One way to occupy your passengers is to rotate sitting in the front passenger seat with this person having the important role of official animal spotter.
• Times to avoid (maybe) – the Innamincka races are usually held in late August and are a lead into the much more popular Birdsville races. The crowds are not as big as Birdsville so if you love outback races or just want a different experience, this could be a good time to go. However, camping spots will be at a premium. The Cooper area is often on the itinerary for the many charity “bashes” that criss-cross the country. Again, these can swell numbers in town and put pressure on facilities. To avoid these, do some “Googling” or, better still, contact the Innamincka Regional Reserve headquarters.
• If in trouble – never leave your vehicle if broken down. Many have perished trying to walk to help, generally becoming disoriented and dying of dehydration. Your vehicle contains all of your supplies, provides shelter and is far easier to see by a search party. Although isolated, there is a lot of traffic in the area and someone will come past eventually. Use whatever communication system you have to try and get help. Surrounding stations often monitor the emergency UHF channel and usually use a dedicated channel to communicate with their workers. Cycle through channels giving a mayday message and wait for a reply before trying the next channel.

Where To From Here

Despite its isolation, there are a number of alternatives to either head home or continue on to other places.

• North
  • The Cordillo Downs Road will take you to the Queensland border, either via Cordillo Downs and on to Birdsville or via Arrabury if heading east to Windorah. Both tracks meet the Birdsville Developmental Road.
• South
  • Head back down the Strezlecki Track but perhaps take the old track to Merty Merty if this was not done on the way there.
  • Go south to Merty Merty and then head east to Cameron Corner. From there head south to Tibooburra and Broken Hill. This route will be detailed in another article on the Corner Country.
• East
  • The track east crosses the border into Queensland and enters Nappa Merrie Station. You are now on The Adventure Way going through Noccundra, Thargomindah and eventually on to Cunnamulla. This road is gradually being sealed from the east with the bitumen now close to the Queensland border.
• West
  • The only option here is to take the Walkers Crossing Track (if open) to meet the Birdsville Track 122km south of Birdsville. This track is only suitable for 4WD vehicles, is extremely isolated and requires sound navigation skills as oil and gas exploration tracks criss-cross the area, often leading to an isolated dead end.

Distances and Services

Fuel: U = unleaded D = diesel L = LPG

Accommodation: CP = caravan park H = hotel/motel C = cabin

N.B. there is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst.

Download the Strzelecki Track Distances and Services PDF

Maps

Hema Maps Great Desert Tracks

Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback

This winds up our Strzelecki track series, enjoy your trip and as always, if you have any questions about camping gear and equipment, give us a call as Snowys on 1300 914 007.

The post Strzelecki Track Part 3 – Get prepared appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The Strzelecki Track starts at Lyndhurst, about 600km north of Adelaide. There is a lot to see between Port Augusta and Lyndhurst, so have a look at previous articles in this series, particularly “Oodnadatta Track Part 1 – Port Augusta to Lyndhurst” for information about these attractions.

Travelling the Strzelecki Track

The discovery of oil and gas in the Cooper Basin has had some dramatic effects on this area. Mining, pastoralism and tourism have to co-exist and for us travellers this brings advantages and disadvantages.

One major advantage is the condition of the track, especially as far as Moomba, 369km along the 494km to Innamincka. Because large mining vehicles very regularly traverse this section it is wide and very well maintained.

Past the turnoff to Moomba, a closed town with no public access, the conditions are not quite as good with some quite stony sections and areas prone to corrugations.

Despite the good road conditions always keep in mind that like any dirt road, rain can change conditions rapidly and roads are closed very quickly if continued travel will cause damage.

This track passes through some of the most inhospitable areas in South Australia so all of the precautions for travel in remote areas must be taken. Don’t let the good track conditions lull you into thinking that 110kph is an appropriate speed.

Pot holes, sections of deep bull dust, massive road trains billowing dust and wandering stock still are hazards, all incompatible with high speed travel. More information about preparation can be found in part 3 of this article.

There are no settlements along the way and the 500km can be travelled in one day, albeit a long one.

There are a few reasonable camping spots along the way at Blanchewater, Montecollina Bore and Strzelecki Creek crossing but keep in mind that there is no fuel, water or any other supplies along the whole distance of the track.

Never camp in a creek bed as a raging torrent can roar down these with no notice, the result of rain and thunder storms some distance away.

Once at Innamincka, fuel, water and basic supplies are available, but don’t count on a big choice or lots of fresh produce. This is an extremely isolated outpost with the supply truck generally arriving weekly. It does not take much rain further south to delay the arrival of supplies so be well prepared and as self-sufficient as possible. Basic mechanical and tyre services are available.

The original Strzelecki Track

The original Strzelecki Track followed the course of the Strzelecki Creek between Innamincka and where the track is currently crossed by the creek.

The discovery of oil and gas required the establishment of a town and processing facility and Moomba was born. This required a re-alignment of the track but there is still an opportunity to see what it was like “in the old days”.

A section of the old Strzelecki can be traversed between Merty Merty and Innamincka. This requires taking the turn-off to Cameron Corner and travelling the 10km to Merty Merty homestead. At this point the old track heads north for 68km where it crosses the new track. Continuing north on the old track will see you at Innamincka in another 46km.

Although you pass a number of oil and gas wells along the way, this section of track is extremely isolated and not maintained. Now little more than a couple of wheel tracks weaving between trees and skirting the Strzelecki Creek, it is a great adventure for those with a well prepared 4WD.

Things to See

The first distance shown is from Lyndhurst and the second from Innamincka.

0km/474km – Lyndhurst

A tiny settlement, including a roadhouse, hotel and caravan park, this is your last connection with civilization until Innamincka is reached. Ensure your fuel is topped up before leaving on your trek.

Just out of town on the track is the home of the quirky Talc Alf. Pop in and have a look at his many sculptures carved from local talc stone and be prepared for a robust conversation about the state of the world and almost anything else.

It is also worth travelling a few kilometres north on the track to Marree to see the Ochre Pits. This ancient quarry has been the source of vibrant red, orange and white ochres for Aboriginal people for hundreds and perhaps thousands of years and still used today. Please respect this area by not going down into the quarry.

158km/316km – Blanchewater Ruin

The remains of the Blanchewater homestead are to be found just off the track to the west. One of the very earliest attempts to establish a pastoral enterprise in this area, the famous South Australian names John Baker and Thomas Elder are associated with this very successful venture.

Sitting on a flat area next to Macdonnell Creek, the remains are crumbling away under the harsh conditions.

This is a good place for an overnight stop as you imagine the hustle and bustle that took place in this spot over 160 years ago.

222km/252km – Montecollina Bore

This controlled bore releases a steady flow of hot water into a depression amongst the stark white sand hills.

The overflow forms a mini-wetlands attracting many bird varieties. An excellent place to camp with flat areas amongst the sandhills, this is an opportune time to break up the trip. You can even have a relaxing soak in the warm water.

275km/199km – Strzelecki Crossing

Another spot providing camping opportunities along the creek, follow existing tracks to some flat and shady spots.

319km/155km – Merty Merty Turnoff

This turn to the east leads to Merty Merty homestead and on to Cameron Corner. Turn here if undertaking travel on the old Strzelecki Track or using this as one of the possible routes home (see Part 3).

369km/105km – Moomba Turnoff

Moomba is a closed town with no access or services available to the public. There is a lookout and information board just off the track explaining the infrastructure that can be seen in the distance.

410km/64km – Old Strzelecki Track crossing

This is the point where the old Strzelecki Track crosses the current road.

The current alignment was constructed some years ago to provide a more rain resistant path. The old track follows the line of the Strzelecki Creek and became impassable with even small amounts of rain.

The old track can still be travelled as explained earlier, but ensure there has not been recent rain.

426km/48km – Della Gas Field

The current road alignment goes past the Della Gas plant. You can’t miss the imposing structure and constant flame coming from at least one of the flame stacks.

474km/0km – Innamincka

What a historic area to spend a week or more with the Innamincka Regional Reserve providing many camping opportunities along the Cooper Creek.

Other than camping in the town reserve, an area along the Cooper just out of town, you will require a Desert Parks Pass to camp in any other area. If you have not purchased this beforehand, see the store or Regional Reserve headquarters in town.

The package that comes with the pass provides comprehensive maps, notes on all the tracks throughout the reserve, lists all the camping spots and is full of useful information about the area. Some must-sees are:

• The Innamincka Pub – full of character and provides good pub meals.
• Burke’s Grave – not actually his grave, but the spot where he died and was originally buried. His body was later returned to Melbourne.
• Will’s Grave – again, the spot of his death but not his current resting place.
• King’s Site – the spot where King was looked after by the local aborigines and later found alive.
• Cullyamurra Waterhole – a permanent, large waterhole on the Cooper and a great place to camp.
• Visitor Centre – at the Regional Reserve Headquarters in the re-built Elizabeth Symon Nursing Home. Thanks to the intervention of entrepreneur Dick Smith and readers of his Australian Geographic magazine, money was raised to re-build the old nursing home and today it stands as a grand reminder of the past.
• The Dig Tree – made famous in the Burke and Wills saga, this tree still has the carved “DIG” message made famous through this unfortunate part of history. Visiting involves a quick 70km trip into Queensland, across the Burke and Wills bridge and onto Nappa Merrie station where the Dig Tree is located.
• Coongie Lakes – travel over the causeway at Innamincka and take the 106km trip to the expansive Coongie Lakes. A mecca for birds and other wildlife, this trip can be easily undertaken in a day, or camp at the designated campground.

Now you know what to expect along the way, subscribe to receive Part 3 of this article for information on accommodation, preparation, facilities and general tips to make your trip safe and enjoyable. Part 3 will also look at alternatives for travelling from Innamincka, either back home or further afield.

The post Strzelecki Track Part 2 – Getting there appeared first on Snowys Blog.

• Crossing the Simpson Desert
• Travelling the Oodnadatta Track and Old Ghan Railway
• The Birdsville Track

The first part of this topic is a little long, if you want to skip the history and get travel tips and distances, go to part 2.

Like the previous articles, this trek involves another amble into the South Australian desert… but this time with a twist.

At the end there is water and usually plenty of it. The Cooper Creek meanders into South Australia from Queensland where it is fed from cyclonic rains that often soak the catchment areas during summer. In times of drought the flow will stop but the creek is so deep in spots that permanent waterholes exist along its course. A brilliant example of this is the Cullyamurra waterhole to the east of Innamincka, a broad and long stretch of water providing some of the best camping opportunities in the area.

However, don’t lose sight of the fact that getting there involves considerable desert travel with all the planning and preparation normally required for a trip into harsh and isolated areas.

As with other desert treks in South Australia, rain can make roads quickly impassable and summer temperatures are mind boggling. Travel in the cooler months is definitely the key to success and enjoyment with the risk of rain and high temperatures greatly reduced.

The South Australian government is currently considering sealing the Strzelecki Track and a sealed road from Queensland is not too far away, so if you want the true outback experience don’t wait too long to get out there.

This area is in the middle of the Cooper Basin gas and oil fields with exploration and wells radiating out from the processing, maintenance and administrative centre of Moomba, thus the motivation for an all weather road to cater for the considerable traffic, including many trucks, that travel from Adelaide to Moomba. Moomba is a closed town, only accessible to workers, but the small township of Innamincka, on the banks of Cooper Creek, provides a great outback pub, general store, fuel and is the administrative centre for the Innamincka Regional Reserve that covers 1.3 million hectares of land.

Not a national park, the reserve aims to support mining, pastoral and tourist activities allowing appropriate access for each without overly restricting any of these pursuits. Established in 1988 and being the first reserve of its type in Australia, it seems to have worked successfully for all concerned with travellers having access to many areas along the creek, the very significant Burke and Wills sites and tracks leading to many areas further afield.

“The South Australian government is currently considering sealing the Strzelecki Track”

Other than in the town common, camping in the reserve requires a Desert Parks Pass. These can be purchased from the reserve headquarters or the Trading Post in Innamincka. However, I recommend purchasing before leaving as, although quite expensive ($150 at time of writing), the pass provides comprehensive information and maps of the area that are invaluable for trip planning and is valid for 12 months (purchase from RAA offices or on the National Parks SA website).

With much of Australia’s early European heritage coming from the forced work of convicts, it is perhaps not so unusual that what we now know as the Strzelecki Track came to prominence thanks to the mis-guided efforts of a cattle thief.

In 1870 Harry Redford, later immortalized as “Captain Starlight” in the film Robbery Under Arms, decided that a mob of cattle were better in his hands than those of their Queensland owners. But where do you take them? His answer was to drove them south, where he sold them at Blanchewater for a reputed $10000. Although not the first to follow this route, Harry unwittingly demonstrated that this was a viable and quicker route to market for the inland pastoralists. In the end Harry’s venture came unstuck with him being arrested in 1872 and sent to court.

But the story does not end there. The judge, so impressed with Harry’s droving skills and with the appreciation that he had performed a great service to pastoralists, let him off and he continued life as a highly respected drover. Who says crime doesn’t pay.

While painstakingly pushing his cattle south, Harry Redford could not have imagined the scene today. A wide, well maintained dirt road stretches from Lyndhurst in the south to Innamincka in the north. The drover has given way to massive multiple trailer road trains carrying stock and mining supplies, drilling rigs and a whole range of other mining paraphernalia. In the cooler months 4WD’s, camper trailers and even caravans are a common sight as people head to the Cooper to camp, relax, fish and visit a range of historic sites. In dry conditions the track is suitable for a well maintained conventional vehicle but accessing some of the camp sites along the creek does require a high clearance vehicle.

History

When Harry Redford made his move south, providing water for the cattle was a major concern.

From central Queensland water courses that eventually led into the Cooper were followed. Near what is now Innamincka, he came across the Strzelecki Creek, an overflow from the Cooper that weaves its way south to Lake Blanche. The existence of this creek was confirmed by explorer Charles Sturt in 1845 on one of his treks to find the fabled “inland sea”, and named it after another explorer and scientist, Polish born Paul Edmund de Strzelecki. Following Sturt’s discoveries, in November 1845 Cooper’s Creek was named after the South Australian Chief Justice, Sir Charles Cooper.

The first recorded movement of animals along this route was undertaken in 1867 when John Conrick moved 200 horses from a station near Quilpie in Queensland to Kapunda in South Australia. Despite the harsh conditions and times of extreme drought, stations were established along the track. At the time the area around Coongie Lakes was seen as particularly promising due to the large amounts of water in the river and lake system.

So mesmerised were they that in the mid-1870’s Norman and Hector Wilson established a station and named it “Land of Promise”. The establishment of this station however had a much more sinister side.

Local indigenous groups, the Yandruwandha and Yawarrawarrka, were seen as trouble by the station manager. They are believed to have been constantly harassed and many of the women stolen, eventually leading to retaliation resulting in the spearing of two stockmen. In a rage, the manager went about systematically killing all the indigenous people he could find.

The nearby Lake Massacre is said to be named after this event. Any remaining aborigines quickly left the area, never to return.

Like the Birdsville Track further to the west, the Strzelecki suffered from extreme droughts and became impassable at times, not from flooding but from massive sand drifts.

“The nearby Lake Massacre is said to be named after this event”

The Cobbler Sandhills, about half way between Lyndhurst and Innamincka were particularly troublesome, building to such a massive size that in the early 1930’s the route was rarely used. Other than station homesteads, there was no settlement along the track and waterholes in the creeks were the only source of water. A few bores were drilled along the southern part of the track with Montecollina Bore still existing on the northern edge of The Cobbler.

On the southern section of the track, before reaching The Cobbler, you will come across the ruins of the historic Blanchewater homestead.

It was this homestead, the most northerly in the region at the time, that the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition was attempting to reach when both Burke and Wills died on the banks of the Cooper. By the 1890’s the wealthy pastoralist, Thomas Elder owned Blanchewater and it became famous for the quality of horses bred there. Many of these were purchased by Cobb & Co. to pull their coaches that were opening up travel to many outback areas.

The reputation for breeding excellent horses travelled widely, with the Indian Army being a regular customer. At its peak the station ran up to 20000 horses.

By the late 1800’s Adelaide had developed excellent stock markets (the animal kind), well regarded by inland pastoralists and the market of choice for selling their stock.

The Old Ghan Railway had been established and passed through the southern ends of both the Strzelecki and Birdsville Tracks, making rail transport available for the rest of the trip to Adelaide. As traffic built up it was clear that a settlement was required, with an area on the banks of the Cooper Creek being established. Originally called Hopetoun after the Governor of Victoria, this name was short lived.

There was one survivor of the Burke and Wills expedition, John King. His survival was due entirely to assistance from local aboriginals and in gratitude the Government had allocated land to them, known as Innamincka.

It was this name that people wished maintained and it was duly changed. Although it developed slowly, a hotel, customs house and homes developed and soon the Australian Inland Mission established the Elizabeth Symon Nursing Home, providing medical services near and far.

However, by the mid 1950’s, Innamincka had all but disappeared. The imposing stone nursing home was now a crumbling shell and very few people called the town home. But soon all was to change. The Cooper Basin oil and gas field discovery was just around the corner, bringing new life to the region. From the first hydrocarbon discovery in 1963, the area has been transformed with a maze of tracks, wells and pipelines to ensure our insatiable thirst for oil and gas is met. One of the earliest developers was SANTOS (South Australian & Northern Territory Oil Search), a company whose name is now synonymous with development in the area. Follow this link for an extremely comprehensive history of oil and gas search in the Cooper Basin.

“There was one survivor of the Burke and Wills expedition”

The area is also rich in Aboriginal history but, as previously explained, initial contact with the European settlers was fraught with difficulty. They were rightly very suspicious of the incursion of pastoralists onto their land.

Perhaps these suspicions were further strengthened by the arrival of missionaries in a number of desert areas who, no doubt in good faith, attempted to convert the aboriginal people to Christianity and have them adopt a European lifestyle. At the same time pastoralism was rapidly expanding with many leases being granted in the area most of which eventually ended up in the hands of Sir Sidney Kidman. With these incursions the fate of the local people was sealed.

Although destroying much of the native culture, at least the pastoralists provided some work, especially for the men, and the legendary skill of the aboriginal drover developed.

That’s a little of the tracks history, check out part 2 to find out how to get there and detailed information on the towns you will see along the way.

The post Strzelecki Track Part 1 – A History Lesson appeared first on Snowys Blog.

This time I’ll cover at the practicalities of travel in this area and provides information to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.

Accommodation

Marree – a good variety of accommodation is available. A caravan park has camping and caravan sites as well as cabins. The hotel has quite modern cabins available.

Clayton Wetlands – established by nearby Clayton Station, the wetlands are a result of a free flowing bore and provide a top camping spot. This is a spacious area so you won’t be crowded. They have even created a hot artesian spa in a water tank. Toilets are available.

Mungerannie – home of the famous Mungerannie Hotel, there is a spacious camp ground along an extensive wetland, once again formed from a free-flowing bore. If the bones are aching, another warm artesian “hot tub” is available. There are also basic cabins for hire. Bird watchers will have a field day.

Birdsville – a good range of accommodation is available. An excellent caravan park has camping and powered sites as well as cabins. The famous Birdsville Hotel has a motel attached with all modern facilities.

Preparation

Despite the fact that this is a well-travelled track, especially in the cooler months, it is isolated with minimal services. Like all outback travel, top class preparation and self-sufficiency are the keys to an enjoyable experience providing positive memories for years to come. Here are some major factors to consider:

• Food – carry all food required to at least get you to Birdsville, with a couple of days extra supplies in case of breakdown. Birdsville has basic supplies with only a small store attached to the roadhouse.
• Water – don’t rely on any access to water along the way, especially drinking water. Carry all you need, again ensuring extra in case of breakdown. Supplies can be replenished in Birdsville.
• Shelter – if you want cabins or hotel/motel accommodation, book ahead. Facilities are limited and can be booked out in the busy time of the year. There are plentiful camping opportunities along the way. If camping, an insect proof shelter can save many frayed tempers, flies can be a real problem.
• Fires – campfires are allowed most of the year, but firewood is rare. Carry your own.
• Fuel – Luckily there are not long distances between fuel stops so large amounts of extra fuel are not required. Once on the dirt, keep a close eye on the fuel gauge so that any puncture of a fuel tank is picked up quickly. Have some hole repair material handy that suits the material of your fuel tank and can be used with fuel leaking.
• Tyres – gibbers are tough on tyres. If your tyres are getting towards the end of their life, replace them before leaving. Carry at least two spares, a tyre repair kit and compressor, and know how to use them. Reduce tyre pressures around 20% from normal bitumen pressures when on the dirt. Check out the Cooper Tires website for their excellent guide to tyre pressures.
• Communication – there is no mobile phone coverage along the track, so carry a good UHF radio as a minimum. Telstra do have a mobile phone signal in Birdsville.
• Vehicle – have your vehicle thoroughly checked before leaving and ensure your mechanic knows where you are heading so that everything is looked at. Be very aware of carrying as little gear as possible to avoid over-loading your vehicle. Try to pack light gear on a roof rack to keep the centre of gravity low. Ensure you do not exceed your vehicles legal Gross Vehicle Mass as insurance can be voided if an accident occurs as a result of over-loading.
• Personal – fly nets are a must – don’t leave home without them! Good insect repellent is another must, especially if camping near water where mozzies can be a real problem. Have light weight clothes that cover arms and legs and always wear a hat in the sun – you can burn very quickly, even in the winter.
• Caravans and Camper Trailers – A good sturdy camper trailer will have no problems with this trek and yours will definitely not be the only one out there. Modern off-road caravans are becoming more common with the main track normally in pretty good condition.

Some Tips and Bush Etiquette

• Approaching vehicles – to avoid windscreen damage, slow down when another vehicle is approaching – you don’t want a smashed windscreen out here.
• Keep headlights on – enormous clouds of dust will follow a vehicle in many areas. Make yourself as visible as possible with headlights on to avoid a head on crash.
• Road trains – triple road trains are not uncommon on the track, producing incredible dust clouds and sometimes trailers can weave about quite a bit. Slow right down and pull over as close as possible to the left. Don’t speed up and move back onto the road until you can see if there is any more on-coming traffic. If travelling in convoy, ensure the leader warns the group and makes clear their intentions to pull over.
• Station tracks – do not travel down station tracks, even to find a camping spot. This is like driving into someone’s driveway in the city.
• Camping spots – some of the best spots are alongside creeks where there are often some beautiful shady trees. Tracks can often be found leading to some flat, cleared areas. Never camp in a creek bed as heavy rains many kilometres away can result in a sudden rush of water down what is normally a dry creek bed. Beware of camping under over-hanging limbs of large gum trees. These are prone to break without notice and people have been killed by the falling limb. Never camp near stock watering points as this scares stock away, leaving them without water.
• Cook after dark – the flies will go to bed after dark, making life a lot easier. Have some good lights that can provide enough light over the camp site without having to be right next to you. You will attract insects to the light rather than you. A good headlight is great when cooking and you need some intense light over your mouth-watering delight.
• Driving through water – After significant rain you will come across large pools of water spreading across the road. The temptation is to drive over to the edge as it appears the water is shallower. Don’t. The pool exists because the road surface under the water is hard, but the edges are generally soft and often consist of deep mud. Use a low gear and drive steadily right through the middle of the pool.
• Animal hazards – much of this track is un-fenced so keep a constant eye out for wandering stock. Kangaroos and emus can also be a hazard so keep the speed down and avoid having to make sudden direction changes on the dirt road. Quite often large wedge-tail eagles can be seen feasting on a dead carcass on the road. Slow right down and sound your horn. These birds, especially with a belly full of fresh meat, are slow to fly off and potentially can fly right into your vehicle causing significant damage and trauma to your passengers. One way to occupy your passengers is to rotate sitting in the front passenger seat and this person has the important role of the official animal spotter.
• Times to avoid (maybe) – the Birdsville races are held usually in early September. If you love outback races, huge crowds and camping in close quarters, this won’t worry you. However, if this is not your scene, avoid this time. Birdsville is often the in place to go for the many charity “bashes” that criss-cross the country. Again, these can swell numbers in town and put pressure on facilities. To avoid these, do your research or, better still, contact the Visitor Information Centre.

Where To From Here

Despite its isolation, there are a number of alternatives to either head home or continue on to other places.

• North
  • Take the Eyre Developmental Road to Bedourie and Boulia, then head west on the Donahue Highway (don’t be fooled by the name – I would not recommend this for conventional vehicles) to Alice Springs or further north on the Diamantina Developmental Road to Mt. Isa.
• South
  • Head back down the Birdsville Track but take the alternative track (Inside or Outside), assuming the Inside Track (4WD recommended) is open.
  • Take the Walkers Crossing Track (if open) to Innamincka and continue south on the Strezlecki Track (the subject of a future blog). This track is only suitable for 4WD vehicles.
  • Go east along the Birdsville Developmental Road for 222km and then turn south on to the Cordillo Downs Road and on to Innamincka. This track can be very rough.
• East
  • The Birdsville Developmental Road joins the Diamantina Developmental Road and heading east will lead to Windorah, Quilpie and Charleville.
• West
  • The only option here is a Simpson Desert Crossing, not to be undertaken lightly. See “Crossing the Simpson Desert – Parts 1-3” for comprehensive information. Definitely high clearance 4WD only.

Distances and Services

Fuel: U = unleaded D = diesel L = LPG

Accommodation: CP = caravan park H = hotel/motel C = cabin

N.B. there is no LPG fuel available beyond Lyndhurst.

Download the Birdsville Track Distances and Services PDF

Maps

Hema Maps Great Desert Treks–South East

Royal Automobile Association of S.A. – Flinders Ranges and Outback

The post The Birdsville Track – for lovers of the Outback – Part 2 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The outback means many things to many people, probably dependent on where you come from and previous experience. In South Australia, an outback trip is invariably a desert experience, travelling through areas having minimal rainfall. But when it does rain, watch out!

Torrential downpours often cause severe flooding and may close many of the normally dusty roads. These heavy rains most commonly occur in the summer as a result of monsoonal weather conditions experienced in the north-west of Western Australia or cyclonic conditions pushing down from northern Queensland.

The best time to travel in the area

This is not a good time to travel in the area, not just because of the risk of rain, but also due to the extreme temperatures, often in the high 40’s. Although these events can impact on travel in the area, the sight of a quick flowing Cooper Creek or Diamantina River is spectacular and provides some brilliant camping opportunities.

One of the best times to travel is in the winter following one of these rain events as the creeks often retain water well after the event, forming large waterholes and billabongs, flanked by magnificent trees – a campers dream.

The Birdsville Track is well travelled, being a supply route to the stations along the way and still fulfilling its original role as a major stock route, bringing animals from as far away as the Queensland Channel Country to markets in Adelaide.

The romance of the drover leisurely pushing a herd of cattle south is long since gone. Now a massive diesel powered monster will come rumbling down the track spewing masses of dust behind its multiple trailers. The road train rules!

Condition of the track

Although dirt all the way from Marree to Birdsville, it is normally well maintained and can even be traversed in a well-prepared conventional vehicle. However, like all outback tracks, conditions can change quickly, especially after rain, and a 4WD is preferable if you find yourself in a “sticky” situation. Advice about vehicle preparation and gear to carry will be found in part 2 of this blog.

Having reached Birdsville, had the mandatory drink at the Birdsville Pub and seen the sights, you do need an exit strategy. You could turn around and head back south and do it all again, and many people do. But there are a variety of other options if you have the luxury of time and these will also be covered in part 2.

The beginning

Like many things, necessity drives invention, and the Birdsville Track is no exception.

The large cattle stations stretching north of Marree and well into Queensland needed a way of getting stock to market. This was a time well before motor transport and the drover was king. The nearest railhead was initially at Port Augusta, and later Marree, a distance over 1000km shorter than moving stock to Brisbane.

But, no route existed through incredibly inhospitable terrain, requiring the crossing of three deserts – the Tirari Desert, east of Lake Eyre, Sturts Stony Desert that runs along the eastern edge of the Simpson Desert, and the Strezlecki Desert, sandwiched between the Simpson and Queensland. A route was surveyed in the early 1860’s and stock started moving soon after, sometimes in mobs of over 1000 animals.

However, one enormous obstacle stood in the way of this venture being a success – water. Apart from the relatively rare flooding events that swelled otherwise dry creeks, there was no permanent water along the whole length of the track. Many deaths occurred, both human and animal, due to the harsh conditions and extreme isolation.

Blinding sandstorms lasting up to 5 days were not uncommon, especially in the Natterannie Sandhills area. Stock wandered aimlessly and with visibility non-existent, many were never seen again. Drovers were not spared, with many perishing in the desert whilst looking for the wandering stock. Especially in the sand hill country, every direction looked the same.

More on the history of the area

Even relatively modern travellers have fallen foul of the conditions with the Page family of five perishing along the track when their vehicle broke down in 1963 and they attempted to walk for help.

Their graves stand forlornly near the track at Koonchera Dune (26 35 20S, 139 38 22E).

The South Australian Government, realising the economic importance of the track and wanting to encourage its use to bring stock into the southern markets, began a program of bore drilling, resulting in the Great Artesian Basin being tapped every 40-50km.

Many of these bores have now been capped, but some are controlled with valves and a certain amount of water flows freely producing mini-wetland ecosystems teeming with birdlife. Look out for these on your travels.

Once the track was established

Once the track was established it also became the route for cameleers carrying supplies for stations along the track. The cameleers were commonly known as Afghans, however many came from India and Pakistan. They soon set up a significant community in Marree and what is known as Ghan Town still exists today, populated by many of the descendants of these amazing pioneers.

A mail contract was let in 1884, with mail and other supplies carried along the track in horse and buggy. But without a doubt, the most famous of the mailmen was Tom Kruse, immortalised in the 1954 documentary, “Back of Beyond”.

There is no better documentation of what life was like at the time and it is well worth getting a copy before you embark on your trip. If nothing else, you will certainly appreciate all the mod-cons today’s travellers enjoy. One of Tom’s mail trucks sits opposite the hotel at Marree, unfortunately, not in good condition.

Getting There

The southern end of the track starts at Marree, some 700km north of Adelaide, requiring some time just to get there. For most, the outback starts north of Port Augusta, with the rugged and magnificent Flinders Ranges beckoning you to head north.

There are many things to captivate the traveller before arriving at Marree and these have been documented in the previous blog “Oodnadatta Track Part 1 – Port Augusta to Lyndhurst”.

If you have time at least stop and look at a few of these places. My top 5 are:

• Kanyaka Homestead
• Brachina Gorge
• A meal at the Prairie Hotel, Parachilna
• The Ochre Pits
• Farina

Travelling the Birdsville Track

Today the track is wide and well maintained, but don’t be fooled. You will be travelling through the desert country with no natural water sources other than after rain. Much of the track has a gibber surface that can play havoc with tyres unless pressures are reduced.

The seemingly good condition of the track can build up a false sense of security leading to increased speeds. A pot-hole, wandering animal or corrugations have led some to make sudden direction changes, unfortunately to their peril. So keep the speed down and enjoy the experience.

Even though the track is only 520km long, I suggest taking at least two days to take in the sights and appreciate the country. There are no towns along the way and Birdsville itself is only a small town with limited supplies. No big glitzy supermarkets here.

Self-sufficiency is the key, especially with food and water, although water supplies can be topped up at Birdsville. Fuel is available about half-way along the track at Mungerannie, with a couple of outlets at Birdsville.

Things to See

The first distance shown is from Marree and the second from Birdsville.

0km/521km – Marree

The area around Marree, Lake Eyre and north is the traditional home of the Dieri people. Many are prominent residents of Marree and the Dieri Aboriginal Corporation operates a number of businesses in the town. The Marree Aboriginal School caters for the children of the area with modern facilities.

When first established, the town was known as Hergott Springs, but this soon changed to Marree and became an extremely important rail town when the narrow gauge Ghan train arrived in 1884. For a number of years, this was the railhead, with many hundreds of camels loaded up with supplies from the trains to be taken to the homesteads, some many kilometres away.

As stock started to come down the Birdsville Track, they were loaded onto trains for the trip to the markets in Adelaide. This was a bustling, busy centre until a new standard gauge railway bypassed the area in 1980.

Since that time, Marree has depended largely on tourism and is quite busy, especially in the cooler months as travellers pass through on their trips up the Birdsville Track, Oodnadatta Track or onto Lake Eyre.

Whilst at Marree have a look at the following:

• the old mosque that sits alongside the road opposite the road house
• a couple of the old Ghan diesel locomotives that sit next to the old railway platform
• the Lake Eyre Sailing Club – just down the road from the roadhouse
• Ghan Town, where many of the descendants of the early pioneers live. This is in the area behind the roadhouse
• Tom Kruse’s old mail truck that sits opposite the pub.
• The roadhouse boasts its own bakery and can provide basic supplies. Fuel is also available.

If you have time, take the 54km track, just outside of Marree, to Muloorina, a fabulous campsite on the edge of wetlands. There is then a 45km Public Access Route to the edge of Lake Eyre. Muloorina is where Donald Campbell stayed whilst attempting his land speed records on Lake Eyre. The track to the lake is quite sandy, so a 4WD is recommended.

31km/490km – Lake Harry

The site of a short-lived attempt to grow dates in the early years, now there is just the remains of a building and an old bore head. The bore provided plentiful water and together with the warm climate, it was believed the conditions were conducive to a good crop.

The trees grew exceptionally well but there was one problem, the natural pollinators for date palms did not exist in this area. To overcome the problem, canals were dug along the sides of each row of palms and men in boats pollinated the flowers by hand.

Although some dates did grow, this highly intensive process was not economic and the project was soon abandoned.

43km/478km – Dog Fence

Reputed to be the longest fence in the world at over 5500km, it begins at the Great Australian Bight and weaves right up into Queensland. It was designed to protect sheep from attack by dingoes with the area south of the fence deemed suitable for sheep grazing and the area north being more suitable for cattle.

The fence is still maintained to this day by contractors, each of whom has a section to look after. It is illegal to travel along the maintenance track adjacent to the fence and potentially dangerous with traps and baits being laid by the contractors.

54km/467km – Clayton Wetlands

Established by the nearby Clayton Station, this area results from a controlled release of bore water. The area has toilets, warm showers and even a “spa”, created by a large section of the water tank that can be filled with warm water from the bore. What a luxury in the bush.

There are plenty of campsites along the wetland and bird watchers won’t be disappointed.

124km/397km – Etadunna Station

Signified by the large steel cross on the side of the track, Etadunna (pronounced “Eta-dinna”) is a large cattle station taking in a lot of land along the Cooper Creek. The cross is a reminder of the German missionaries who set up the Bethesda missionary station nearby at Lake Killalpaninna to try and convert the local Dieri aborigines to the Lutheran religion. Access to the remains of this settlement can be gained from the station homestead where a key providing access to the track can be hired.

Etadunna is also the access point to the Cooper Creek flood track. At times when the Cooper is in flood, the main Birdsville Track becomes impassable where the Cooper crosses, as water spreads out over the low-lying country either side of the main creek.

The track can be impassable for many months so an alternative track through Etadunna Station provides access to a deep but narrow section of Cooper Creek where a “ferry” is operated by the South Australian Government.

This is a small raft that can only take one or two vehicles at a time and is powered by a couple of small outboard motors. This is a rare but amazing experience that last occurred in 2010.

It is illegal to travel on this track other than when it is officially opened for use of the ferry. Large fines apply for travel on a closed road.

146km/375km – Cooper Creek crossing

Other than on rare occasions, you won’t see any water here, just a broad flood plain and a dip as the track crosses the main channel. Just to the south of the crossing and on the western side of the track sits the “Tom Brennan”, a small boat used to carry people, supplies and stock across the creek when flooded.

Just another stark reminder of the difficulties experienced by early settlers and drovers living in this harsh environment.

150km/271km – Natterannie Sandhills

An area on the track that caused great difficulties for travellers, drovers and the early mail contractors. Consistently moving fine white sand dunes, regularly whipped up into a dense, opaque cloud caused disorientation, disguised the track and led to the deaths of people and stock.

The perils of this area are well documented in the film “Back of Beyond” mentioned previously. No worries today as the track is wide, well formed and constantly maintained.

164km/357km – Mulka ruins

George and Mabel Aiston established a store, roughly half way along the Birdsville Track in the early 1900’s. Imagine the lonely existence at this time with very few people travelling the track. George, known as “Poddy”, died in 1943 and Mabel continued to run the business until 1951, then well into her 70’s.

The crumbling ruins of the store remain just off the western side of the track, not long before the track into Mulka Homestead.

206km/315km – Mungerannie

The only settlement along the track, you will be greeted by a top outback pub, flanked by permanent wetlands fed by a controlled bore. Pub meals, snacks and a cold drink are always on offer, and camping along the wetlands makes a good break in your trip. Tyre repairs and basic mechanical assistance is also available.

242km/279km – Mirra Mitta Bore

One of the bores drilled to provide water for drovers, this is now controlled but does constantly flow into a small pond and into long channels to cool the water for stock.

288km/233km – Mt. Gason Bore

Another controlled but usually flowing bore. Be very careful near the bore head as the water flowing out can be extremely hot.

315km/206km – Warburton Crossing (27 06 29S, 138 49 21E)

This track leads to the Warburton Creek and on to the eastern edge of the Simpson Desert. It is often closed as even a small amount of rain or any significant flow of water in the Warburton makes the crossing impassable.

340km/181km – Inside Track (26 59 53S, 139 01 30E)

The original route of the Birdsville Track followed the Warburton Creek and crossed it near Clifton Hills Station. However, the Warburton’s wide flood plain resulted in the area becoming impassable, even after a little rain. This happened so often that a new route to the east was surveyed and a new road built, now known as the Outside Track.

The inside track can still be taken but, due to the factors mentioned above, is quite often closed. If open it provides an alternative route home for travellers returning along the Birdsville Track.

399km/122km – Walkers Crossing (26 52 15S, 139 32 08E)

Another track that is subject to regular closure due to rain, it provides a route between Birdsville and Innamincka. The name comes from the point where the track crosses the Cooper. The channel here is deep and makes the crossing impassable if there is any significant water in the creek. This track also passes through major oil and gas fields and tracks go in all directions.

Travelling through the area can be a navigational nightmare as few of these tracks are on any map. If taking this option have the best maps you can, a reliable and accurate GPS and good navigational skills.

You are not looked on kindly if you drive into the middle of a mining camp or drilling operation.

512km/0km – Birdsville

One of the places many people want to tick off their “bucket list”, Birdsville is a true outback icon and a delightful place to spend a couple of days. Established in 1881, it sits beside a large billabong on the Diamantina River. Nestled near the borders of Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory, it was established as a point to collect tolls for the many cattle being moved out of Queensland to southern markets.

Apart from the obligatory drink at the Birdsville Pub, accompanied by the regular comings and goings of aircraft on the airfield just across the road, there are a number of things you should see before you leave:

Visitor Information Centre

In the Community Centre and Library, get all the latest information, maps and “goss” from the locals to ensure you don’t miss out on anything.

Birdsville Bakery

Try their famous camel pies plus many other delights. They also do a great breakfast.

Big Red

Just 35km out of town is the famous and largest sand dune on the Simpson Desert. If you have a 4WD, give it a go. The view from the top is worth the effort, be it by vehicle or foot.

Dingo Caves and Waddi Trees

This area to the north of town provides a magnificent lookout over the area and is the site of a group of Waddi trees, having some of the hardest wood of any trees in the world. See the Visitor Centre for exact details.

Geothermal power station and bore

Just on the edge of town is a bore that has been supplying the town’s water for many years. Gushing from the earth at very high temperatures, it is run through cooling towers so that it can be piped around the town. The hot water is also used to run a power station that supplies some of the town’s electricity.

There is even a free “car-wash” that visitors are urged to use to remove dust, and sometimes mud, from vehicles rather than depositing this on the roads.

Mechanical and tyre repairs are available and spare parts can be flown in if required – at a cost!

Having whet your appetite to take on this trek, check out part 2 for information on accommodation, preparation, facilities and general tips to make your trip safe and enjoyable.

The post The Birdsville Track – for lovers of the Outback – Part 1 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

But here’s the rub; In that desperation to escape the cold, for many, it’s full steam ahead with as few stops as possible until that tropical warmth starts seeping into the bones.

The Stuart Highway starts at Port Augusta and takes a pretty direct northerly route to Darwin. All up it’s nearly 3000km that can be covered in less than a week. However, to do this would be to miss out on some of our most stunning landscapes and very intriguing towns. All whilst enjoying travelling through Australia’s great outback.

So here are my top places to spend some time and explore on your trek north. To do them all justice would take some considerable time, so perhaps several trips may be required.

Port Augusta – the journey starts

The Wadlata Outback Centre is a great place to start your journey. The interactive displays in the centre will provide you with a comprehensive understanding of the indigenous and European heritage of the country up to Alice Springs.

Having a context for the things you see makes them far more interesting and will add considerable richness to your journey. For more information see the Wadlata Outback Centre website. 

While at Port Augusta, you might also be interested in a trip on the restored trains of the Pichi Richi Railway. These trains follow the narrow gauge line of the original Ghan Railway from Port Augusta, winding up through the lower levels of the Flinders Ranges to Quorn. For more info head to the Pichi Richi Railway website here.

Woomera -“this is a place of legends”

Now, this is a place of legends. The British Blue Streak rocket tests, the American Narrungar Tracking Station and a testing site for Australian military tanks and other military equipment.

The infamous Woomera Immigration Detention Centre still sits unused, adjacent to the massive airfield that has recently hosted testing of the high-tech experimental SCRAM Jet.

The legendary outback road builder Len Beadell surveyed and built many of the tracks needed to follow, observe and retrieve rockets launched only a few kilometres from the town.

Although only a shadow of its former self in population, The Woomera Heritage Centre, housed in what was the United States Forces Recreation Centre documents the varying fortunes of the town and is well worth a visit.

In the centre of town is the National Aerospace and Missile Park housing a fabulous display of rocket, missiles and planes that played their part in the varied history of this place.

Coober Pedy- “the biggest opal producing area in the world”

Having lived in Coober Pedy for 6 years, I know this is a place that tourists often bypass and yet it has much to offer.

Apart from being the biggest opal producing area in the world, it also provides a unique, underground lifestyle that tourists can readily see, and perhaps even stay in. From the 5 star luxury of the Desert Cave Hotel to a number of underground camping options, this is your chance to experience something very different.

A number of opal showrooms, both above and underground will entice you to buy one of Australia’s national gemstones. For the adventurous, an underground mine tour could be just the thing.

Nearby are the Breakaways, an area of natural beauty, stunning colours and where some of the original Mad Max films were shot. You can easily spend a couple of days exploring this oasis in the desert.

Uluru and Kata Juta – “the most recognisable natural feature in Australia”

Probably one of the most, if not the most, recognisable natural feature in Australia, Uluru is a must see. This will require a 250km detour off the Stuart Highway. But combined with a visit to Kings Canyon, all on a sealed road, will loop you back to the Stuart Highway.

To see both will add an extra 830km to your trip. Nut apart from the brilliant scenery, you will most likely enjoy beautiful warm outback days, although the nights can be chilly. There are shorter options for those prepared to tackle some reasonably rough dirt road.

You should spend at least a couple of days at Uluru to experience the grandeur and mysticism of this place. A walk around the base of the rock, preferably on your own, allows you to explore in peace and quiet. This is the best way to appreciate the beauty and scale of this place.

It’ll also give you a better understanding of why Uluru is of such great significance to the local aboriginal people. To see a sunset on the rock is an unforgettable experience, but one you will not do alone.

Kata Juta is nearby and well worth the half-hour drive on a sealed road. Again, the best way to appreciate the beauty of this area is to take one of the walks that lead you to these massive rock domes.

Take a picnic lunch and give yourself a day to leisurely wander and take in the spectacle.

Kings Canyon – “one of the most under-rated natural wonders in Australia”

I believe this is one of the most under-rated natural wonders in Australia. It’s worth every minute of time taken to explore this great chasm. Kings Canyon Resort or the nearby Kings Creek Station provides a wide range of accommodation and a full day should be allowed to explore this area.

The climb to the top of the canyon is quite strenuous, so give yourself time and take plenty of water. Once at the top the pace is far more leisurely as you explore the rim of the canyon. But beware – do not go too close to the edge as this can be very dangerous.

A walk down to the bottom of the canyon into the Garden of Eden, a beautiful rock pool surrounded by lush growth, is well worth the effort.

Alice Springs – “the most well-known inland town in the country”

Without a doubt, the most well-known inland town in the country, Alice Springs, and surrounding areas provide the tourist with a wealth of attractions, both natural and man-made.

A sizeable blog could be devoted to just detailing these options, so the best bet is to make a beeline to the Visitors Centre in the middle of town and arm yourself with all the information needed. My favourite natural attractions are to be found mainly in the West McDonnell Ranges, such as Standley Chasm, Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Big Hole.

In the East McDonnells, the old gold mining town of Arltunga is fascinating and if a competent 4WDer with a high clearance, low range 4WD, Ruby Gap is brilliant.

In town, visits to the National Road Transport Hall of Fame and the Royal Flying Doctor base are very informative.

Devils Marbles – “What happened here? Why are they so round?”

You will know when you are approaching this area, as large round boulders start to appear in the relatively flat surrounding area.

What happened here? Why are they so round? A walk through this area is fascinating and, although not requiring a lot of time, it is a top place to take a break from behind the wheel, or stay the night in the nearby camping area.

The keen photographer could be rewarded with some fascinating sunset and sunrise images.

Daly Waters – “quirky”

If you are looking for something quirky, Daly Waters has it in spades. A tiny town adjacent to a WW2 airstrip, it now consists of a pub and a few very “individual” souvenir shops.

You could easily spend an hour in the pub perusing the masses of paraphernalia that adorn every available space. If the timing is right, the pub does a good meal and at the very least, a cooling beverage is likely to hit the spot.

Take the time to have a wander around the old airfield and hangar. This and other airfields along the Stuart Highway played an important role during the war and information boards in the hangar will help you understand the operation of the site.

Mataranka – “a chance for a refreshing dip “

By now the daytime temperatures are rising and the chance for a refreshing dip may beckon.

What better place to take a break than Mataranka, with its thermal springs providing the opportunity to soothe away any aches and pains and send you back on the road revitalised. You can stay in parks adjacent to the springs, with only a few minutes walk from doorway to pool.

The nearby re-creation of the Elsey Homestead, used in the making of the 1980’s film We Of The Never Never, is well worth a look with information boards providing a good insight into some of the histories of this area.

Katherine Gorge – “One of the jewels in the crown for the Northern Territory”

One of the jewels in the crown for the Northern Territory, Katherine Gorge will reward you for the time spent here. With excellent accommodation options either in Katherine or at the gorge, this is a comfortable place to stay.

Like Mataranka, a dip in the thermal springs in the middle of town is a top way to relax and soothe away any aches and pains. Unless you are into paddling, the best way to see the Gorge is on a guided boat trip. Allow a day for this as to experience the full wonder of this area it is best to travel as far up the gorge as possible.

Depending on the time of year and water levels, a full tour requires transferring from one boat to another at least once in the journey, however, the walking involved is not overly strenuous.

The indigenous guides will ensure you don’t miss any of the significant sites, the wildlife, including freshwater crocodiles, and an understanding of the significance of the area to the local people.

Litchfield National Park – “sheer beauty in quite a compact area”

Not far south of Darwin, just to the west of the Stuart Highway is the magnificent Litchfield National Park. For sheer beauty in quite a compact area, I believe this rivals Kakadu and is certainly more accessible. Massive termite mounds, cascading waterfalls and wonderful swimming holes are features of this area.

There are a wide range of accommodation options either in or adjoining the park and you can easily spend a day or two exploring.

From here in relation to what you’ve already driven it’s only a short distance to the end of the Stuart Highway where you can enjoy the sights & culture of the Top-Ends capital city, Darwin. Allow time for your next trip north to see at least some of these fabulous areas. You won’t be disappointed. 

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You have bumped your way along a track from Innaminaka that varies from excellent to rough and rutted. You have passed through a changing vista of open saltbush plains, shrub-covered sand dunes and gum lined creek to suddenly burst on a massive expanse of water hemmed in by sand dunes.

Coongie Lakes seem to spread out before you for miles. As you drop down on to the flat alongside a small “gulf” on the southern shore of the lake the numbers and variety of birds on and in the water is just amazing. Brolgas wade through the shallows surrounded by ducks, swans, spoonbills, avocets and pelicans to name but a few.

Set up camp in the designated areas on this shoreline and soak in the beauty that surrounds you. 

If you have a canoe or kayak you can get even closer and more personal with the life of the lake. Sunset and sunrise bring their magic of light changes over water.

During the night soft calls of drifting birds and the calls of roaming dingoes remind you that you are in fact deep in the Australian Outback camped at an oasis of incredible beauty and diversity.

Gear up and head into our magnificent outback to see the spectacular natural attraction that is Coongie Lakes.

Getting there

Getting to Coongie requires planning and preparation as it is a remote destination a long way from civilisation.

You can get a Desert Parks Pass via the National Parks website or from designated outlets. With this, you get maps and information about a number of great travel areas in the north of South Australia.

You can also do the trip without the pass by paying the daily fees – depends on how long you are there whether it is good value or not. Do your planning and get out there, you won’t regret it!

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Despite an unsuccessful attempt to farm this area in the past, it remains relatively unscathed and the declaration of the Memory Cove Wilderness Protection Area in 2013 aims to restore the land to pre-European condition.

Access is limited to 15 vehicles per day and five camp sites with a maximum stay of three nights. Entry requires a key and a special pass available from the Port Lincoln Visitor Information Centre.

“This special place has become a favourite of ours whenever we are in the area.”

Getting there

The entrance to the wilderness area is about 15 kilometres from the turn off within the Lincoln National Park. A4WD vehicle is recommended as road conditions are often unsuitable for conventional vehicles. The drive is not especially difficult. It posed no problem for our Nissan Patrol with 4WD engaged, and Track Trailer Tvan. The exposed limestone and water-diverting culverts across the narrow track demands a slow speed. It will take an hour to cover the 20 kilometres from the locked gate to Memory Cove.

Spectacular views and wildlife

My sense of anticipation grows as we emerge from dense scrub to cross windswept headlands offering spectacular views of the Southern Ocean, only to descend into the scrub again before arriving at the Cove.

A guide to this drive describes marked diversions off the track to more cliff top views of offshore islands and surrounding waters. Depending on the season, you may see whales, sea lions, nesting sea birds or great white sharks. If towing, you may opt to visit the spots closest to Memory Cove once you’ve set up camp. The track into West Point, in particular, is very narrow and winding with plenty of exposed limestone and ruts.

Arriving at Memory Cove you find a tiny sheltered beach embraced by granite outcrops and headlands of dense mallee.

Birdlife abounds in the surrounding scrub and around the cliffs. Bush birds spend the day darting around the campsite. On our first visit at the end of a long, dry summer; a bowl of water was a big hit with the New Holland Honeyeaters. That trip we were also visited each day by a lone sea lion frolicking just metres off shore.

Bush camping

The five campsites are nestled behind the low shoreline dune among wilderness vegetation. They have a track to the beach from each site. Bush toilets are provided along with a separate parking area and picnic tables for day visitors.

Walking trails take you to the cliff top and beyond with stunning views of the cove and its shimmering waters. Keep a watch out for snakes – an encounter with a metre long black snake late one afternoon was a reminder that we really were encircled by wilderness! Just let them pass by if they emerge onto the track.

Exploring tragedy remembered

The calm, clear water of the bay belies the treacherous currents beyond the headlands and the story behind the naming of Memory Cove. Explorer Matthew Flinders reached this area in 1802 and at the time, fresh water supplies were so low that he despatched eight of his crew in the ship’s cutter to search for water. The cutter never returned and was eventually found floating bottom upwards with no sign of the crew. The cove is named in honour of those men and the offshore islands carry their names.

The isolation and tranquillity of Memory Cove are bewitching and if you are lucky to spend time alone – even for a few hours – it’s a magical and privileged experience.

Download the Memory Cove Wilderness Protection area brochure for more information, and visit the Snowys website or call in and see us for all the gear you need on your Lincoln National Park holiday.

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This is all before we get to the wineries, the food and the historic attractions. With more days of sunshine than the Sunshine Coast, our weather invites you to visit at any time of the year. All this and more only 3 hours easy drive from Adelaide.

With more days of sunshine than the Sunshine Coast, the Riverland is a region that offers you the lot.

Campers and caravanners have an amazing variety of places to camp. Some are free; others have small overnight fees and there are a wide number of excellent caravan parks offering a broad range of activities and facilities.

Loch Luna

Located between Kingston on Murray and Barmera, Lock Luna is an excellent area for canoeing, fishing and birdwatching.

• National Park with self-registration
• Camp on Nockburra or Chambers Creek.
• 10 numbered sites with no facilities.

The Murray River is a great place to explore, and camp. 

Katarapko

South of Berri, Katarapko is a National Park with self-registration and toilet facilities. The area is popular for canoeing, kayaking, bushwalking, fishing and boating offering 2 boat ramps.

It is made up of three sections:

• Section 1 has 15 campsites along Murray River– Lock 4 entry via Berri

• Section 2 offers 4 campsites on upper Katarapko Creek – Eckert’s Creek entry via Lower Winkie Road

• Section 3 provides 40 camp sites along Katarapko Creek– Katarapko entry via Upper Winkie Road

Lyrup:

Just north of Berri in the Murray River National Park. Lyrup has 26 sites along Murray River with self-registration and toilet facilities.

A nearby boat ramp makes this spot great for boating, fishing, canoeing and kayaking and offers access to Pike River.

Murtho Forest

Also known as ‘Headings Landing’, Murtho forest is a beautiful location north of Paringa for photography, boating, fishing, canoeing and kayaking.

• Free Camping with no facilities.
• Spectacular cliff scenery and look out.

Customs House

Sometimes called ‘Border Cliffs’, Customs House is near the SA VIC border north of Paringa. A nearby boat ramp makes this a great launch point for a day of fishing.

Also popular amongst canoeists and kayakers, while bushwalkers can get their fix on a nearby walking trail.

• 3 sites on Murray River with toilet facilities within a National Park.
• Register your stay at the nearby store.

An incredible view of the Murray River, South Australia. 

Chowilla

Accessed from Renmark, Chowilla offers 35 campsites along Chowilla, Monoman and Punkah Creeks.

It is a National Park with self-registration and provides excellent fishing, boating, canoeing and kayaking.

Pike River

A new National Park soon to be accessed from Paringa.

• Pike River is a self-registration area with excellent fishing, boating, canoeing and kayaking.

Maize Island

You can access Maize Island which is a little further west from Waikerie.

• National Park
• No facilities

Another great area for canoeing, fishing and a good birdwatching location.

For more information check out the Parks of the Riverland guide from National Parks and Wildlife South Australia.

What’s your favourite activity to do in the Riverland? Let us know in the comments below. 

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Heading north from Adelaide, your drive will take you through the beautiful Clare Valley, arriving in Laura only a few hours after leaving the city. The town has much to offer the traveller, history buff, antique and collectable lover, and foodie.

Accommodation

An excellent, country style caravan park provides the major accommodation for the town.

• Powered and unpowered sites.
• On-site vans.
• Self-contained cabins are all available.

The resident managers will make you feel very welcome and keep immaculately clean amenities. A camp kitchen and communal campfire are also provided. If you are new to camping, this is a great place to check out your setup and if missing something, the local hardware store has a selection of camping gear available.

Laura also has several B&B’s and a good pub.

History

Laura, together with the town of Gladstone a little to the south, are the centre for the local rural community and have been for many years. Many old buildings in both towns have been beautifully maintained and used today. The old shops along the main street of Laura are a photographers dream.

Gladstone also has a rich railway heritage which is well displayed. One of Laura’s claims to fame is being the home of poet C.J. Dennis, author of “The Sentimental Bloke”. A large bronze statue of the poet stands proudly in the main street. Just a few kilometres north of Laura is the tiny village of Stone Hut which has a rich history in the agricultural development of the area and has a well-signposted heritage trail with ample interpretive signage along the way explaining the points of interest.

Food

“If you are a lover of Golden North Ice Cream, then you have to come to it’s home”

The Golden North Ice Cream factory stands on the edge of town and is a major employer in the area. The locals are rightly proud of this industry and you will find ample opportunities to sample the products in the local shops.

At nearby Gladstone is the Trend soft drink factory, makers of the famous F.C. Grubb drinks. If visiting through the week, you can visit the factory and sample the wide variety of flavours and take a case or two home.

Stone Hut is the home of a well-renowned bakery producing a variety of unusual pies, including camel and crocodile. This is well worth a visit and you can wash it all down with an F.C. Grubb drink or a glass of local wine.

There are several wineries in the area with the Stone Hut bakery and the North Laura Hotel being outlets for them. The North Laura pub also has a nice dining room with hearty pub food available.

Other Attractions

Down the main street of Laura are several antique and collectable shops with some having some very historic items from the local area. They are all worth a browse and you never know when that piece that fits perfectly in your home will present itself. Those interested in arts and crafts are also catered for with several shops in Laura and Gladstone.

Laura has a Visitor Centre right in the middle of town and the very friendly staff will ensure you have all the information you need to have an enjoyable few days. A well-equipped playground and skate park is right opposite the caravan park so the kids can also be well entertained.

The one thing that stood out to us on a couple of visits is the very friendly and welcoming locals, so, do yourself a favour and spend some time in this interesting area – we don’t think you will regret it.

Do you have a favourite travel destination, somewhere that is constantly overlooked but offers a wealth of activities and history for a weekend getaway?

If you’re willing to share your secret destination with our readers, tell us about it in the comments section below.

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Most people in Adelaide know of or have hiked the Waterfall Gully to Mt Lofty walk. But there are some other lesser known trails that you should definitely explore as well. All of these walks and hikes on our list are no more than 45 minutes from the city, and many are accessible by public transport. So whether you’re just visiting Adelaide, or you’re a local – you’ll be able to hit the trails with ease.

So without further ado, let’s get into the top five.

1. Waterfall Gully – Mt Lofty

• Where does it start? – Carpark at the end of Waterfall Gully Road
• Time it takes – 2 hours 30 mins
• How hard is it? – 3/5
• How scenic is it? – 4/5
• Wow Factor – 1/5

Waterfall Gully to Mt Lofty is a very popular walk up a beautiful gully along the first creek. The first segment passes two lovely waterfalls, and then continues along the creek, up the gully towards Mt lofty. Chinaman’s Hut about a third of the way along is a nice break and historically interesting spot.

At the top is Mt Lofty Summit, which has a huge obelisk, a restaurant, café, and a large open viewing area with stunning views over the city.The walk can be steep in segments, however, the vast majority is paved. This walk is very popular and can get very busy especially on weekends when people often use it for a training run.

At times it may feel more like a city street than a bushwalk, which may put off the purists. Waterfall Gully to Mt Lofty is a beautiful walk with nice surroundings culminating in a great view.

How to make the walk a bit different

• Do it at night, enjoy the lights, and get terrified by growling drop bears.
• Try and find all the waterfalls on the creek – to date I’ve found five.

2. Hikers Hill

• Where does it start? – Montacute Road, off road parking in some available bays.
• How long does it take? – 2 hours
• How hard is it? – 4/5
• How scenic is it? – 3/5
• Wow Factor – 2/5

The Hikers Hill is a large long ascent from the Fifth Creek / Montacute Gorge up to the top of Morialta Conservation Park and then weaves back down via Fox Dam to the road. The trail starts on Montacute road, look for where the Yurribilla Trail meets the road. Turn Left and follow Chapmans Track up Hikers Hill, and enjoy working up a sweat climbing up the hill.

From the top of this hill, follow the Moores Track along the spurs and then onto the Fox Hill Track. Have a look at Fox Dam as you pass, there may be wildlife nearby, and make sure to wander out to the peak of Fox Hill. The majority of the walk takes place on large fire tracks making it fairly easy walking.

How to make the walk a bit different

• Time yourself up Hikers Hill (Chapmans Track) and try and improve your times.
• Extend the walk from the top with a loop around the Rocky Hill track then back via Moores Road for great views over Morialta Falls.

3. Mine Track

• Where does it start? – Black Hill Conservation Park Carpark on Gorge Road
• How long does it take? – 3 hours
• How hard is it? – 3/5
• How scenic is it? – 3.5/5
• Wow Factor – 3/5

The Mine Track is a walk around the northern parts of Black Hill Conservation Park showing some beautiful surrounds through the gullies and even an old mine. Start from the car park, and head up the Ambers Gully Track past the ruins and a dry waterfall. At the top follow the main ridge track around the back of the park. When you see the sign for the Mine Track head off down that track and follow it until it runs out enjoying the views over the Torrens Gorge along the way.

Keep a look out about half way down the hill for an old mine about 5 meters west of the track. Once the track gets too overgrown, head back up to the main ridge track, and continue to follow that back to the Ambers Ruins and the carpark. The track varies, with some sections being single track, while others are open fire tracks, and some bits of the Mine Track being quite scrubby.

How to make the walk a bit different

• Bring a torch and have a look in the (all be it short) mine.

4. Horsnell Gully Valley Walk

• Where does it start? – Carpark at the end of Horsnell Gully Road
• How long does it take?- 2 hours
• How hard is it? – 3.5/5
• How scenic is it? – 4/5
• Wow Factor – 4/5

The Horsnell Gully Valley walk is a great walk that is seldom visited, in a much-underappreciated park. The track starts by walking through a densely vegetated section, before opening out into the gully. The narrow track along the gully gradually ascends following the creek.

It eventually reaches a waterfall that you have to scramble up. This is one of the few tracked walks in the Adelaide Hills that requires any scrambling. Once at the top of the waterfall, the track becomes loose, gravelly and unstable as it climbs steeply up the hill.

Here’s a map of Horsnell Gully to give you an idea of what it’s like. 

From the top, enjoy the view and follow the track along to the top of Rockdale hill. Then follow the open Rockdale Hill Trackback down the hill. Look out for the sign near the bottom directing you back to the carpark. The gully track is narrow and above the waterfall is rough, however, the Rockdale hill track is an open fire track.

How to make the walk a bit different

• From the top of Rockdale Hill, follow the Yurrebilla Trail down to Giles Ruins look at the historic ruin and enjoy the creek
• Go after considerable rain, and try and climb by a flowing waterfall (but be very, very careful as the falls will be slippery)

5. Onkaparinga Gorge Hike

• Where does it start? – Piggott Range Road Car park Gate 12 of Onkaparinga Gorge National Park
• How long does it take?- 1 hour or 1.5 hours if you complete the Nature Trail
• How hard is it? – 1/5
• How scenic is it? – 4/5
• Wow Factor – 3/5

This is a simple but beautiful walk down to some huge cliffs on the Onkaparinga Gorge. Start on the Nature trail travelling clockwise, and follow it downhill towards the gorge. Look for a sign to the Gorge Track pointing towards a small track on the left-hand side.

Follow this track down to the gorge and a large water hole. Make sure you have some time to explore the bottom of the gorge, it is very pretty.

A map of Onkaparinga Gorge.

To get back, follow the same route, however following the rest of the nature trail clockwise around the loop is well worth the walk, and will take about an extra half an hour. It meanders through some nice scrub on the edges of the gorge. The quality of the trail varies from open fire tracks along the Nature Trail, to a narrow single track as it approaches the bottom of the gorge.

How to make the walk a bit different

• Bring your bathers, and go for a swim in the water hole at the bottom (but make sure you have a friend there for safety reasons if you get into trouble)
• Bash and explore along the gorge to either the Sundrews or Bakers Gully end and feel like you are the only person in the world

There you have it, the top 5 hikes to do in Adelaide

Adelaide has some great hiking right on its doorstep, with a huge variety of scenery and terrain to explore. These are just some of the tracks around the suburban fringe, but there are heaps more that could keep you occupied for many, many years. Happy hiking everyone!

For more on our top hike series, check out our guide for Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth. 

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Located just over 450 kilometres north of South Australia’s picturesque capital city, Adelaide, The Lady of the Outback – St Mary Peak (Ngarri Mudlanha) rises an impressive 1170 meters (3839 ft) above sea level and is the pinnacle of the Flinders Ranges. Situated on the north-eastern rim of Wilpena Pound, the route to the top is accessible via a well-defined and sign-posted track, beginning at the Wilpena Pound Visitor Centre.

Mind Games

With comments from past summiteers of the peak – “You will never make it, it is way too steep!” – my mind was often overwhelmed with thoughts of – “Hey, they must be right, I will never make this” or “They should know, they’ve already been to the top“. However, I knew deep down that if I put in that extra mile I would be capable of reaching the summit of St Mary Peak, just like back in 2008, when I was told that I had only 20% chance of regaining function in my legs, I would beat the odds.

Even more determined to reach the highest point within the Flinders Ranges, I planned a 3-month training program to not only strengthen my lower back, legs and increase my overall cardio fitness but to also eradicate all those internal negative thoughts that were cluttering up my mind.

Autumn was now well and truly at my doorstep, and with only 10 more days left until the big day I needed to step up the challenges. It was only when I had accomplished an 11 kilometre round trip to the summit of Mount Cavern (770m), combined with an 18km hike along the rocky track of Hidden Gorge within the Mount Remarkable National Park, Mambray Creek, that I was reassured that I was definitely ready to meet the Lady of the Outback – known simply as St Mary Peak.

Onwards and Upwards

My phone alarm went off at the ungodly hour of 2:00 am and although I had only managed about four hours of restless sleep I felt surprisingly awake. Overflowing with anticipation for the day ahead, I stepped out of my swag and onto a campsite bathed in the soft glow of a full moon. I could not have asked for a better start to the day.

After a hearty breakfast, countless vitamins, and triple-checking our backpacks one last time, we headed off towards the start of the track and our journey onwards and upwards. After initially thinking that the autumn morning would be relatively cool, we found it surprisingly warm, tropical in fact, and were already shedding the layers to cool down within the first kilometre.

Upon reaching the 2.5km point of the walk, the silhouetted outline of the peak was visible in the far-off distance; her sheer size still an overwhelming presence in the semi-darkness. What an absolute privilege it was to experience this magnificent environment in a completely different light – moonlight.

With Saddle Rock now only 2.5km ahead (the psychological halfway point towards the summit), the upcoming terrain suddenly changed from an effortless single track to a track littered with odd-sized rocks, boulders and vertical rock ledges – perfect for your common mountain goat. It was at this stage of the walk that I was truly thankful for my trusty walking poles, which have been a valued companion on many a long hike. The walking poles not only assisted in reducing the physical loads and stress endured on the body, but they also helped with balance and gave me that extra spring in my step.

Just prior to reaching the comforts of Saddle Rock we had one more obstacle to overcome, a sheer rock face where two hands for support are often not enough.

Thin Blue Line

Phew! We finally made it to the ridge of Saddle Rock, the midway point that separated us from the valley below. If it had not been obscured by darkness, I reckon the view from up here would have been spectacular.

The second leg of the journey started off remarkably easily, too easily in fact. Similar to the track near the valley floor, this track too disappeared and merged into a maze of large boulders and steep rocky ledges only metres after Saddle Rock. The only guidance now was from a labyrinth of strategically positioned blue reflectors on the rock faces up towards the summit – the thin blue line.

After spending another gruelling hour and nearly scrambling up the eastern face of this tangled web of rock ledges, unsteady table-tops and narrow rock formations, I unexpectedly found myself on an open plateau 1170 metres above sea-level and on the summit of St Mary Peak.

360° Perfection

The Lady of the Outback had been kind to us that beautiful autumn morning and, as I scanned across the moonlit valleys and far-reaching vistas of the Flinders Ranges, I was overcome with a mixture of relief, excitement and a feeling of total freedom that I was able to enjoy an adventure of such calibre in our very own backyard.

With a rising sun in the east and a full moon in the west, the 360° panoramic views of Wilpena Pound, Lake Torrens and the jagged backbone of the northern Flinders Ranges would forever be etched into my mind.

Heading Home

Two hours had come and gone and it was now time to pack up and head back down to the Pound. Although I could have stayed until nightfall on what felt like the top of the world, I knew that if we didn’t leave now we would be caught walking back in the heat of the midday sun.

As we headed back down to Saddle Rock we had two options: either retrace our steps back down the shorter, steep descent from where we came; or, take the longer, less travelled southern route through the centre of the Pound back to the campsite. We decided on the second option through the Pound as my walking companion had not been down this path before. In hindsight, I think we should have decided on the first option and taken the path more travelled.

After a challenging hour-long trek along the lengthy and extremely rocky pathway to the lower rim of the valley, a rewarding lunch break, and then a further three hours of plodding across the wide-open Pound, we finally found our way back to where it had all begun.

Final Thought

After a well-deserved afternoon siesta, a hot dinner and a review of the day’s photos, I thought to myself that without the inspiration, determination and hard work of 2008, this modest little adventure would not have been possible.

Debrief

• Thank you to The Lady of The Outback – without you this would not have been possible.
• When you feel a blister coming on, bandage it up straight away – I learnt the hard way.
• Carry a spare pair of socks on extended hikes – great foot recovery.
• Get decent walking poles – don’t leave home without them.
• 4 litres of water was just enough – never underestimate your water consumption.
• Take a healthy lunch and plenty of low GI snacks – avoid those hunger flats.
• Ensure you have a jacket (windbreaker), cap and beanie – it was cold at the top.
• Pack the essentials:
  • Fully Charged Camera
  • Good Binoculars
  • Quality Head Torch + Spare Batteries
  • First Aid Kit + Whistle
  • GPS – Waypoints at the Ready
  • UHF – just in case
  • Spare Batteries
  • Adventure and Fun!

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1. Horseshoe Bay Caravan Park – Port Elliot, SA

The Horseshoe Bay Caravan Park.

Where is it?

This is a great weekend getaway and a cheap alternative to hiring a shack for the weekend. Situated on the Fleurieu Peninsula between Victor Harbor and Goolwa, Port Elliot is a quaint town exuding charm and hospitality.

Situated 85km from Adelaide, it’s just over an hour until you can be relaxing by the seaside! The caravan park itself offers excellent facilities and accommodation to suit varying budgets and needs.

Is it kid friendly?

Kids are well catered for with an extensive playground and activities during the Christmas holidays. Of course, the main attraction is Horseshoe Bay. The sand is clean and the waters are usually gentle due to the sheltered nature of the bay, making it an excellent beach to introduce younger kids to the surf.

Basic supplies can be purchased from the Caravan Park shop, but adults and kids alike will enjoy wandering the main street of Port Elliot and browsing through the many interesting local shops in search of knick-knacks and curios.

Where to eat and get supplies

The main street is also home to take away shops and two good pubs. For more serious supplies, you can find Woolworths and Foodland in Goolwa and Woolworths and Coles in Victor Harbor. If you’re staying for the weekend, check out Horseshoe Bay and the Port Elliot main street.

Where to visit

If your stay is a little longer, you could also check out Hindmarsh Island and the Murray Mouth, The Cockle Train, the South Australian Whale Information Centre at Victor Harbor as well as Granite Island and The Bluff, also at Victor Harbor. For information contact the Horseshoe Bay Caravan Park.

Facilities

Kids

Adults

Difficulty

2. Edithburgh, SA

Located in south-east corner of Yorke Peninsula in South Australia is the town of Edithburgh. 

Where is it?

Situated on the eastern side of the Yorke Peninsula, Edithburgh has long been a popular fishing destination for experts and fair weather fishermen alike. It’s a comfortable 230km from Adelaide, taking around 3 hours by car, or slightly longer if you stop for a hot pie at the Ardrossan Bakery.

Accommodation

Arriving in town you’ll notice the wide streets and parks, and the genuine and relaxed atmosphere of a country town. Accommodation options are pretty standard, and of course, it all depends on your budget and how long you plan to stay.

The caravan park caters well to fishermen, with cabins and grassed camp areas, as well as fish cleaning facilities, an excellent camp kitchen and an all weather boat ramp.

Fishing spots to check out

From the caravan park, it’s only a short stroll to the jetty, where locals and holidaymakers alike regularly catch good hauls of squid, tommies and gar. There is also a jetty at nearby Wool Bay that can produce good hauls of squid if you’re not having any luck at Edithburgh.

Be sure to check the weather and tidal conditions before your holiday to maximise your chances! The caravan park can provide this information. Aside from the caravan park, there is a motel, and many shacks available for hire.

Where to eat and visit

Two pubs service the town with cold beer and old-fashioned country meals. If your stay is only a weekend, you’ll find plenty to do within the town and of course – the local fishing. If you plan to stay a little longer then Edithburgh is a good central location to check out other areas of the Peninsula. It’s only a short drive to Marion Bay and Innes National Park, Corny Point, Point Turton and Minlaton – the Barley Capital of the World!

Edithburgh and the Yorke Peninsula both offer great entertainment for fisherman and for those wishing to escape the hustle and bustle. The caravan park and town offer playgrounds for kids, but unless they’re into fishing you might consider organising some activities for them or bring some with you.

For more information check out the Edithburgh Caravan park website or contact them on 08 8852 6056.

Facilities

Kids

Adults

Difficulty

3. Parachilna Gorge, Flinders Ranges, SA

Parachilna Gorge is a must visit in the legendary Flinders Ranges. 

Where is it?

If you’re looking for a touch of adventure on your weekend, the Flinders Ranges is the perfect option. There are endless campsites and regions to explore and the Parachilna Gorge is just one option. Roughly 500km to the township of Parachilna, the drive from Adelaide itself is quite interesting.

You can take the chance to travel through the Clare Valley, the historic copper mining town of Burra, and the mid-northern pastoral district before entering the Flinders Ranges.

Parachilna itself consists mainly of a pub (The Prairie Hotel), but the pub is magnificent and is recognised as Australia’s most awarded outback hotel! It offers all kinds of accommodation and fantastic meals with local flavour.

Where to eat and what to do

The pub serves as an excellent starting point for your Flinders adventures, and a wide range of tours are available to book through the hotel, such as 4WD tours, and scenic flights.

If you’re looking for something more to quench your bush adventure thirst, then definitely venture into the Parachilna Gorge.

A four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended for this trip as there is a creek crossing that, although dry most of the year, can be quite rocky. Having said that, if you’re an adventurous type you’ll probably be fine in a regular vehicle.

Where to camp

The road through the gorge leads to the historic town of Blinman, and along the way, there are some perfect campsites where you can take in the serenity and local wildlife. The entire journey from Parachilna to Blinman is only 30km, and can easily be accomplished in 1 hour – but that defeats the purpose! Find a nice spot to settle in for the night, read a good book, go for a walk, and take in the serenity.

Blinman offers a pub with all the usual facilities like showers and toilets for a minimal fee, as well as a swimming pool! From here you can take the back road to Hawker on your homeward journey.

For more information, check out the Prairie Hotel’s website. You can also visit the Blinman Hotel’s website for more ideas.

Facilities

Kids

Adults

Difficulty

So, get out there this weekend and visit South Australia’s own backyard – make it as simple or action-packed as you like, but most importantly relax and take the time to smell the roses!

What are your favourite South Australian getaways? Let us know in the comments! 

This article was updated for 2017.

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