Duration: 2hr 54 min (163.8 km) from Alice Springs via Maryvale Road and Maryvale

Total Distance: 300km return from Alice Springs

Chambers Pillar was formed from sandstone deposited and worn down over 350 million years. It was an important landmark guiding the region’s earliest pioneers on their way from Adelaide to Alice Springs. John MacDouall Stuart first recorded the pillar in 1860 and named it after one of the South Australian benefactors of his expedition, James Chambers.

Some testing road conditions along Maryvale Road.

There is the option to loop a visit to Chambers Pillar in on the same day trip or tour to Rainbow Valley. If you’d prefer to visit the historical reserve on its own, then you’re looking at a three-hour journey following Maryvale Road. You’ll also see some of the Finke Desert Race track. The 50-metre-high pillar is unmissable, and there is a viewing platform at its base. Tour operators include Outback Elite Tours and Spirit Safaris.

Access to Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve lies 160km south of Alice Springs, along the Maryvale Road on a turnoff to the west of Maryvale Station. The road is unsealed and may be closed after rain. After the Maryvale turnoff, a 4WD is required to negotiate the deep sand drifts and steep jump ups. Use extreme caution when driving over single lane sand dunes. It is advisable to have someone check for oncoming traffic, or attach a flag to warn other motorists of your approach.

Approaching Maryvale Road.

Approaching Maryvale Road.

The History of Chambers Pillar

The main feature of this 340 hectare Reserve is the pillar of sandstone which towers 50 metres above the surrounding plain. Sandstone sediments were laid down in the area 350 Million years ago. Since then, wind and rain have eroded away the softer material, leaving this solitary sandstone column.

Stuart described the Pillar as a beacon. Layers of sand, silt, and clay were deposited on the sea shores over time. The entire area was much higher in altitude than it is today, part of a vast plain that experienced seasonal heavy rains. This was during his third attempt to cross the continent from south to north and find a route for the overland telegraph line, connecting Australia with Europe, Java, and India. Following Stuart (who did not leave his initials in the Pillar), other early explorers, the builders of the Overland Telegraph Line, and travellers to Central Australia used Chambers Pillar as a navigational landmark.

There’s nothing plain about this vast plain!

The colours of the plain and the Pillar.

Until the coming of the railway in the 1920s, the Pillar was a landmark in the desert on the long overland journey from Adelaide to Alice Springs. Many of those early travellers have left a record of their visit in the soft, white sandstone, including John Ross and Alfred Giles both in 1870. More recently, visitors have added their names or graffitied the rock face. This is illegal and lessens the historical significance of the Reserve.

The Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve is also the site of Aboriginal significance in the Dreamtime. It is said the Gecko ancestor Iterrkewarre (pronounced it-turk-kar-wara) left the Finke River and journeyed north-eastward. As he travelled, he grew into a huge and powerfully built man of super human strength and extreme violence of temper. Read how the Dreamtime story unfolds here.

John Ross recorded his name in 1870.

Man-made marks from the past.

Napwerte (Ewaninga Rock Carvings)

Napwerte (Ewaninga Rock Carvings)

A Few Considerations:

• The 50m high sandstone pillar is the main feature of the Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve
• The pillar is impressive and towers over the plains below
• It’s best seen at sunset when it reflects the light to bring out the strong red and orange colours
• Explore the reserve on foot and don’t forget your camera
• The local Aboriginal people believe that the pillar is the Gecko ancestor Iterrkewarre
• Get the Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve fact sheet and map

Camping

There are two designated campgrounds provided, both have wood firepits and pit toilets. Camping fees apply and campsites must be booked online before you arrive.

Walking

Two easy walking tracks explore the prominent features of Chamber Pillar and the surrounding area. At sunrise and sunset, the Pillar glows like a burning ember as the rays of the sun strike its walls.

The viewing platform at the base of the Pillar is to protect the fragile sandstone from erosion

Explore the reserve on foot and don’t forget your camera!

Varying approaches to the Pillar.

Interesting from every angle.

The Pillar platform and walkway.

Safety and Comfort

• Observe park safety signs.
• Carry and drink plenty of water
• Wear a shady hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, suitable clothing, and footwear
• Avoid strenuous activity during the heat of the day
• Consider your health and fitness when choosing a walk

Please Remember:

• Keep to designated roads and tracks
• Access is via four-wheel drive tracks
• Recommended only for off-road camper trailers; off-road caravans are NOT recommended
• Corrugations, bulldust, and erosion gullies are common
• Camp only in your pre-booked site in designated camping areas
• All historic, cultural items and wildlife are protected
• Bins are not provided, please take your rubbish with you

Not Permitted:

• Firewood collection in the Reserve
• Fires, unless in designated firepits
• Pets
• Generators
• Drones

Entry to the Reserve.

There’s more to see than rocks!

Explore the reserve on foot, and don’t forget your camera. The two other striking formations, Window and Castle Rocks, are equally worthy of your camera’s lens. Follow one of the marked walking tracks to the viewing platform or past the prominent features of Chambers Pillar. Photographers should time their visit for either sunrise or sunset when the pillar glows as the rays of the sun strike its face. Its also a mecca for astrophotographers.

If you haven’t already, check out Part 1 and Part 2 of Emma’s day trips in Mparntwe (Alice Springs).

Have you ever visited Chambers Pillar? What did you think? If you haven’t, would you visit?

The post Day Trips in Mparntwe (Alice Springs): Part 3 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We intended to travel to Alice Springs via the Oodnadatta track, Dalhousie Springs, Uluru, and Watarrka National Park where we were going to visit Kings Canyon. From there, we would travel the Mereenie Loop to Glen Helen and onto Alice Springs, then return home via the Stuart Highway.

My wife Linda and I were in our Land Rover Defender with our small, off-road caravan in tow. Linda’s sister Donna and her husband Bill were in their Isuzu MUX towing a soft-floor camper. Also with us was Linda’s younger sister Tracey, who had come over from New Zealand to join us, and their mother Margaret. This trip had been planned for almost a year and, with the threat of COVID cancelling it altogether, the feeling we all had as we finally got underway was a combination of relief and excitement.

We finally found ourselves driving out of Adelaide for the long-awaited trip through Central Australia.

Hawker and Farina

The first part of our journey took us through the Clare Valley, where we stopped briefly for a quick grocery shop, then onto Hawker (just south of the Flinders Ranges), where we had our first camp. Instead of cooking on our first night, we enjoyed a meal at the local pub. We then travelled through the spectacular Flinders Ranges, stopping occasionally to take some photos, and finally made our way to Farina where we camped on our second night.

Our first night in Hawker.

We travelled through the spectacular Flinders Ranges, stopping occasionally to take some photos.

Farina is a town in ruins, but thanks to the Farina Restoration Group some of the ruins are being stabilized to prevent further deterioration. It is a fascinating place to visit, where you can wander amongst the old buildings and read the information boards that explain how the town was formed, and how it was eventually abandoned. The last residents left the town in the early 80s.

Camping is in the privately owned campground just past the town, for a modest fee. There are numerous shady campsites and flushing toilets, as well as a donkey shower. The latter requires a fire to be set under a boiler which heats the water, delivering a hot shower. We tried this, but the fire was a bit small and took over an hour to heat the water – so it was lukewarm. Better than nothing! It was a very pleasant evening, relaxing around the campfire beneath the billions of stars.

Farina is a fascinating place to visit, where you can wander amongst the old buildings.

You can read the information boards that explain how the town was formed.

The last residents left Farina in the early 80s.

The Oodnadatta Track

The Oodnadatta Track starts at Maree – though it really isn’t a track as the name might suggest, but a dirt road that is usually open to all traffic. It can close from time to time due to rain making it impassable.

The track mostly follows the Old Ghan Railway from Adelaide to Alice Springs, which was the original railway line. It began operating in 1878, with the last train leaving Maree in November 1980. There is lots to see along this track including old railway stations and sidings, as well as several bridges. The original telegraph line ran through this area as well, and the Old Peake Telegraph Station is only a short detour from the track – a very interesting place to visit.

The Oodnadatta Track is more so a dirt road that is usually open to all traffic.

Lake Eyre and William Creek

We stopped for lunch at the viewing area for Lake Eyre South, which did contain some water. We had been along this track numerous times before, but this would be the first time we saw water in this part of Lake Eyre. We were originally planning to travel out to Lake Eyre and camp at the Halligan Bay campground, but after checking with the rangers in Adelaide were told that the lake was drying up fast. There was therefore no water to be seen at the camping area at Halligan Bay, so we decided to give that part a miss.

We did stop at William Creek for the night and, after a few drinks at the pub, decided to book a table for a meal. The next morning, I was greeted by a flat tyre on the Land Rover. There was nothing obvious causing the tyre to deflate, so I fitted one of the two spares I carried and would look at the tyre more closely later.

As we continued, we passed several more sidings as well as a couple of railway bridges. We decided to stop at one to pick up some firewood. There are still lots of old sleepers along where the railway track used to go, but they are starting to get harder to find. Other travellers also collect them for firewood, and the elements are breaking them down to mostly pieces of sleepers rather than whole ones.

One of the most popular stops along the track is at the Algebukina Railway Bridge that crosses the Neals River. It opened in 1892 and was the longest bridge in South Australia, until another bridge was built in 2014 that crossed the Onkaparinga River, south of Adelaide. There is a short walk along a boardwalk onto the bridge; it is possible to camp here, although there are no facilities.

My sister-in-law Donna, testing the water (…or mud).

We stopped for lunch at the viewing area for Lake Eyre South, which contained some water.

Oodnadatta

We continued into the town of Oodnadatta for lunch, and checked how the road conditions were looking for the track that leads to Dalhousie Springs. We already knew the route via the ruins of the Pedirka Railway Station were closed due to flood damage, but the track to Mt Dare was open – so we could first head towards Mt Dare, then turn off just before to make our way out to Dalhousie Springs.

There was some low cloud about, but the forecast was mainly dry with a possibility of 1mm of rain. We planned to camp somewhere along this road, as we were not booked into the Dalhousie campground until the next night. We did find a nice spot beside a dry creek bed that had a cleared area with plenty of room for us all. We had a small campfire and a pleasant evening… but after we went to bed, I could hear the patter of raindrops on the roof of the van. Gentle at first, but steadily increasing! This started to worry me, as I knew what it could mean to the roads. It rained on and off for most of the night.

A Swervy Start!

We had a cool, damp morning, so we packed up and decided to continue on. The road was not all bad at first, but we did experience a few more light showers as we went. The road then started to become rather slushy. We reduced speed, as I could feel the Land Rover starting to slip occasionally – even in four-wheel drive.

We were fine for a while; travelling slowly and making progress when we came across a particularly slippery section of road. The Land Rover started to slide a little to one side, then quickly came back again. Nothing drastic, but this affected the caravan differently. A big slide first one way, then the other, pulling the Land Rover with it! This happened several times, and at one point it went completely sideways – I thought it was going to overtake me! This could have been a disaster, but it only lasted a few seconds. As we were travelling slowly, it soon came back under control.

With my heart beating at a rapid rate, I stopped to check all was ok – then saw how much mud had been spraying up over the front of the van. I could just make out the coupling and jockey wheel under the mud. Donna and Bill’s trailer was in the same state. At this point, we were about halfway to Dalhousie Springs, so we thought we would continue on rather than turning back. We reached the Dalhousie Springs turnoff and, given there were no barriers or signs saying it was closed, we turned toward Dalhousie.

That’s when things got worse.

Preparing dinner, about halfway between Oodnadatta and Dalhousie Springs.

When we turned toward Dalhousie – that’s when things got worse.

Donna attempting to remove mud from her shoes.

The surface of this section consisted of a layer of sticky, slippery mud while on top of a firm surface. This offered little traction for both vehicles, and at one spot Bill’s car slipped into a hollow on one side of the road! Normally, not a problem – but because the track was so slippery, there was no way he could get himself out. I was behind, so was able to snatch him out backwards. I then managed to pass him by going right up on the shoulder of the road on the opposite side. Bill then followed in my tracks, and we were both past it. At times, going up a slight rise in the road, the Land Rover would spin all four wheels with the sticky mud flying through the air and up both sides of the car.

A little further on, I started to feel like something was holding us back. It felt like the caravan brakes were coming on. Over the radio, Bill said he was stopping because the wheels of his camper were not turning and he was dragging the camper through the mud. We also stopped and found that the wheel arches were so full of sticky mud that the tyres were jamming up against it, and wouldn’t spin!

Sticky stuff!

To listen to the full story, tune into this episode of the Snowys Camping Show:

Dalhousie Springs

We spent the next 20 minutes digging out the mud, only having to repeat the process twice more before we reached the campground. We had just spent around 5 hours travelling approximately 65 kilometres, so were glad to finally arrive! We set up camp, then went for a swim in the beautiful warm water of Dalhousie Springs.

Dalhousie Station was a pastoral lease that was first taken up by Edward Meade Bagot in 1873. It changed hands several times, and in 1985 was acquired by the Australian Government to make up Witjira National Park. There is only one spring for swimming, of approximately 60 artesian springs in the area. It is about twice the size of an Olympic swimming pool, and the water is between 38 and 43 degrees Celsius (depending on where you are).

The Dalhousie Springs swimming hole. We made it!

Sunset at Dalhousie.

The hassles of the day just floated away as we watched the Dalhousie Goby (a small freshwater fish) come up to us and nibble any dry skin we had on our bodies. It was a weird experience! There was a crew of workers there, removing the date palms from around the Dalhousie Homestead ruins. They told us there was about 10mm of rain that day – not the 1mm that was forecast!

We were staying two nights at Dalhousie, so we used part of the next day to remove as much of the mud as possible from the vehicles. Both wheels had to be removed from the caravan to get all the mud out of the wheel arches. Bill had to do the same with his trailer, and both cars needed all their wheel arches scraped out too. We noticed other vehicles coming in had the same problem. Most of the day was spent relaxing though, with an occasional swim in the artesian pool.

My wife Linda attempting to remove mud from the wheel arches.

Ah… so that’s why the wheels were jamming.

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park

It had remained dry since we arrived, so we were not worried about the roads on our way out. In fact, returning the way we came in, we found the road was well-compacted and easy to drive along. The hollow that Bill slipped into previously was hardly noticed as we drove past it. We stopped for lunch at Mt Dare, then continued to Finke and out to the main highway to Kulgera Roadhouse, where we stopped for the night. We then continued the next day to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

The next day we’d booked a Segway tour around the base of the rock. These were fun and very easy to use. Even Margaret, my 82-year-old mother-in-law, found it a breeze to use! We followed our guide along the trail and stopped several times, as our guide filled us in on some of the geological history of the rock. As well as this, we learned of the cultural history, as told by the Aboriginal Elders of the Anangu people who have lived here for at least 30,000 years.

The segway tour was a lot of fun, and they were easy to ride.

Some of the fantastic formations on Uluru.

The weather, however, wasn’t the best. Some light showers passed through, and it became rather cold. After we finished the tour, we went to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta cultural centre where it was much warmer. Here, we looked at some amazing Aboriginal artwork and had lunch.

We also went to see the Fields of Lights. They can only be seen on an organised tour, and we opted for an early morning session. 50,000 spheres of light cover an area on seven football fields. We were able to walk around amongst them to take photos, then back up to a sand dune to watch the sunrise over the desert floor, enjoying a hot drink and some snacks. Watching Uluru then appear in the distance as the sun finally touched it was a wonderful sight.

The Field of Lights from the viewing platform at Uluru.

The Field of Lights, just before sunrise.

Uluru emerging from the night and catching the sunlight.

Kings Canyon

After our stay at Uluru, we had about a half-day’s drive to Kings Canyon where we stayed for two nights. The girls walked up to the canyon rim while Bill and I went into the gorge. Both our vehicles were still covered in mud and drew attention several times, as people asked where we had been to get so muddy!

Both our vehicles were still covered in mud and attracted the attention of others several times!

Ancient ripples in the sandstone indicates that this was once under the sea.

The steps going up to the Kings Canyon Rim Walk.

The girls at the top of the rim!

On our first night there, we went up to a viewing platform on one of the sand dunes. Here, there was a small caravan selling drinks and a guitarist playing some great music. It was a beautiful evening; we watched the colours deepen on the distant ranges as the sun went down.

There are dingoes in the area, and we were advised not to leave any food or food scraps out; they will find them and help themselves to it! Feeding the dingoes is frowned upon, as it encourages them to lose their hunting skills and natural fear of humans. This has led to some dingoes becoming very aggressive, where some people can cop a nasty bite. Unfortunately, this means these animals then have to be removed or sometimes destroyed – which is such a shame.

Looking out from the viewing platform at the Kings Canyon campground.

The colours of an outback sunrise are just breathtaking.

Glen Helen Gorge

From Kings Canyon, we went along the Mereenie Loop road to Glen Helen Gorge. We had booked into the campground here, but a few weeks prior to us leaving Adelaide we were notified that our booking was being cancelled; the campground was being upgraded and the facilities were not completed. After some discussion with the others, we decided to stay in the free camp on the Finke River for two nights, which was just opposite the Glen Helen resort. Lots of other people were doing the same.

It was a lovely place to camp, with some spots offering shady trees and lovely views across the river to the ancient rocky outcrops of the West MacDonnell Ranges. The Finke River is thought to be the oldest water course in the world, and dates back some 350 million years. There was lots of water in it, although it didn’t appear to be flowing as it was mostly made up of large pools of deep water.

The Finke River is home to some great campsites.

Ormiston Gorge, Ochre Pits, and Ellery Creek Water Hole

As we made our way towards Alice Springs, we stopped at Ormiston Gorge and saw numerous dead fish around the edges of the water hole. This is apparently caused by low oxygen levels in the water, and is a natural event. We also stopped at the Ochre Pits to photograph the colourful Ochre, and Ellery Creek Water Hole where we were fascinated by the amount of debris scattered around the campground and piled up against the trees. This was as a result of floods that had swept through here earlier in the year.

Final Stop: Standley Chasm

Our last stop before Alice was at Standley Chasm, where after lunch some of our group walked into the chasm for photographs and then into Alice Springs. We had booked a townhouse here, so didn’t have to set up camp; a nice change. After two nights in Alice Springs, we packed up and headed home!

We arrived back in Adelaide four days later, after travelling about 4500 kilometres in just three weeks. It was a great trip. I have always loved Central Australia; the beautiful colours, vast open spaces, as well as the rugged ancient ranges. It is a place I would happily visit again.

I have always loved Central Australia for its beautiful colours.

The post An Adventure Through Central Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The following adventure carries over a full day – with no food or fuel, and few facilities. Fill up, pack a picnic and some drinks, grab the camera, and turn the key.

Fill up, pack a picnic and some drinks, grab the camera, and turn the key.

Photo Focus

As a keen photographer, I had read about and seen many images of Rainbow Valley – a popular destination for day trippers, not far from Alice Springs. I knew that to appreciate the reason the area got its name, it really needs to be seen in the early morning or late afternoon. Although we didn’t have time for that, it was still a rewarding day.  

However, if you have the opportunity, stay a night or two in this reserve and you will see what I missed. The valley’s bluffs, rocky outcrops, and sandstone bands change from purple, to red, to orange, and all the tones in between.

I can pretty much guarantee you won’t regret staying.

As a keen photographer, I had seen many images of Rainbow Valley

Harsh land

Drive Safe

If you’re leaving Alice to catch the dawn, you will need to be up early and happy to drive in the dark. Likewise, if you decide to return after sunset. The trip takes an hour. It’s never a good idea to drive when most of the animals are out, as this increases your chances of a collision.  

The first 75kms is bitumen on the Stuart Highway. However, depending on the grader schedule, the last 22km of unsealed track can be unsuitable for 2WD vehicles, which is why a 4WD is recommended. There are a few sharp bends early on, and you’ll need to be alert to approaching motorists.

Stop, Look, and Listen

Traditional land of the Upper Southern Arrernte people, the reserve (known to them as Wurre), is an important archaeological site managed jointly with Northern Territory Parks & Wildlife.

This small reserve is proudly reported as the only weed-free conservation area in Central Australia. This lack of weeds has resulted in a very high level of biodiversity, which makes it a popular spot for research too. More than 400 plant species, 110 bird species, 20 mammal species, 46 species of reptile, and three species of frog have been recorded. In addition, there are plants indigenous to the site, which can only grow in this part of the territory.

There are two main, relatively short walking trails: Mushroom Rock and the Clay Pan. The latter is particularly special in wildflower season. If you’re fortunate to visit after rain, the benefits of the clay pan reservoirs include waterbirds and reflection photography opportunities. This area is fairly exposed, so you will need a hat, sunscreen, solid shoes, and a water bottle. The flies here can be annoying too, so pack your fly net just in case!

More than 400 plant species have been recorded

More than 400 plant species have been recorded

More than 110 bird species have been recorded

Mushroom Rock

On the walk to Mushroom Rock, Jack’s Lookout is a must with grand vista views and a comfortable spot for sunset drinks. The Hermannsburg Sandstone cliffs are very soft and easily water- and wind-eroded. The red and ochre colours (for which the reserve is known) comes from sandstone-based iron deposits, which oxidise as they become exposed to the air.

Nests clinging to the overhang of Mushroom Rock

The view on the walk to Mushroom Rock

Jack’s Lookout is a must-see!

Clay Pan

Stay Longer

For those with the time, Rainbow Valley facilities now include a larger camp area with fire pits and drop loos. There are no cabins or other facilities – this is a 100%-BYO site.

There’s access for off-road camper trailers and caravans too. The corrugations can be brutal, so take care if your trailer or van isn’t an off-road model. Registration and site booking ahead online is recommended by Northern Territory Parks & Wildlife – this is no onsite assistance or payment option.

Redbank Waterhole

Redbank Waterhole

The Road Less Travelled

On the way back to Alice Springs, we decided to turn left to a detour past Red Rock Waterhole and across the Waterhouse range to Larapinta Drive.

Approaching, the track is definitely a 4WD experience (as from the Stuart Highway). This is not for the inexperienced or faint-hearted traveller. In parts, it could be used as a driver training track. High clearance is required, and it would be difficult to traverse after rain.

The 1860s route, taken by explorer John McDougall Stuart for the Overland Telegraph Line through Central Australia, is used for the main reserve track. The road traverses along and across the Hugh River, and it is slow-going. The Hugh River cuts through the reserve. In late August, there was some water around – but earlier in the season would have been better by all accounts.

We hope to return to sandy banks and shady river red gums at Redbank Waterhole for a few nights next visit.

A rough detour

Vivid red cliffs and lush shrubbery.

A rough detour

The end of the rough stuff!

Full of Surprises

A total surprise to us (as we were just taking a back road detour on our map) was the old Owen Springs Homestead ruins. This is the site of the first station homestead built in Central Australia, and recent protective works – including stark white paint – make this a true bonus after the rough roadway.

There are quite a few spots for a break before the homestead, one being the delightfully named Haunted Tree Bore. These stops offer insights into the lives and work of the district’s early settlers. The approach from Larapinta to the homestead is much less gruelling, but a 4WD is still recommended. You will need to turn back from the homestead. 

The Owen Springs Homestead ruins: the site of the first station homestead built in Central Australia

The Owen Springs Homestead ruins

Think Before You Leap

Still not confident this is for you? Don’t be disappointed, as there are a number of tours that take in the area. It will be much more cost-effective to sign on for one of them than damage your vehicle.

If in any doubt about either roadway, your skill, or vehicle suitability – ask for advice from the Parks Department, or the very helpful staff at the information centre in town.

I can pretty much guarantee you won’t regret a day trip like this.

Have you ever been to Rainbow Valley, NT? Let us know in the comments!

The post Day Trips in Mparntwe (Alice Springs): Part 2 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

This is the first of two instalments of the­ amazing things we discovered to do around Alice Springs – all of which can be accessed by two-wheel drive vehicles.

The area is known as Mparntwe to the original inhabitants.

Town Base

Despite a large multicultural population, it’s both the strong influence of the Arrernte people (who have lived in the region for tens of thousands of years) and the Central Australian desert colours that impact Alice Springs and its environs. The area (known as Mparntwe to the original inhabitants) and the city itself are surrounded by weathered, sun-drenched, rocky ranges that are constantly changing colour.

It’s All About the Timing

Anzac Hill

Sunrise and sunset from Anzac Hill, with panoramic views over the city, is highly recommended. Don’t make the common mistake of missing the pre-dawn light. To see the best colour, arrive half an hour before sunrise and watch it unfold. The same applies to sunset. After the sun sets below the horizon, you witness ever-changing hues of deflected light.

To see the best colour, arrive half an hour before sunrise and watch it unfold.

Pre-dawn at Anzac Hill

Pre-dawn at Anzac Hill

Watching the sunset from Anzac Hill is also highly recommended.

Witness the ever-changing hues of deflected light after the sun sets below the horizon.

Simpsons Gap

Just 20 minutes down the road is the permanent waterhole, Simpsons Gap. Although impressive during the day, it is beautiful during dawn and dusk. The light plays on the ancient ghost gums and towering cliffs, where resident black-footed rock wallabies often emerge by the made pathway.

Like many sights detailed in this blog, The Gap is on the Larapinta walking trail. It can also be accessed by riding the Simpsons Gap Bike Path from Alice Springs (34-kilometre return trip). If walking or riding, avoid the heat of the middle of the day and take plenty of water.

Larapinta Drive

Larapinta Drive

While impressive during the day, Simpsons Gap is beautiful during dawn and dusk.

The light plays on the ancient ghost gums and towering cliffs of Simpsons Gap.

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Although we went on a different day trip, nearby is the quartzite rock narrow passage of Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye). The Chasm is along a 30-minute trail and is best seen in the middle of the day; the sun rallies overhead and bathes the cliffs in a magnificent light.

Privately owned and operated by the Western Arrernte people, the traditional custodians welcome all respectful visitors to explore this beautiful cultural site. There is a small entry charge, and the profits have been used to good effect. The pathway and signage are also well-planned and maintained. The website has full details of the kiosk, gift shop and camping and access for both self-guided visits or the series of authentic Arrernte experience tours.

In the middle of the day, the sun rallies overhead and bathes the cliffs in a magnificent light.

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)

West and Water

Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge, and Serpentine Gorge

Another full day can be spent hopping between waterholes in the Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park, stretching for 161 kilometres west of Alice Springs.

Here you will find Ellery Creek Big Hole, as well as Ormiston, Redbank, and Serpentine Gorges – each different, all worth visiting. Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek are the best known of this West Macs’ quartet, but also the most crowded.

If you’d like to avoid the crowd, venture into Redbank Gorge-Rwetyepme. This near-permanent (and very cold) swimming hole is 155 kilometres west of Alice Springs, at the base of Mount Sonder.

The two-kilometre, 1.5-hour return walk from the car park is along the creek bed and an uneven path. The route involves scrambling over large rock boulders, so not suitable for everyone. Serpentine is less rewarding; more user-friendly with a rough, rocky approach.

Another full day can be spent hopping between waterholes in the Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park. Pictured: Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ormiston, Redbank, and Serpentine Gorges are each different, but all worth visiting.

Redbank Gorge

The rocks of Redbank Gorge

Serpentine Gorge

Serpentine Gorge is hot and rough!

Ochre Pits, Glen Helen Gorge, and Hermannsburg Historic Precinct

The colourful Ochre Pit is a little way up the blacktop and worth a look – but there is little shade here, so something to consider if it’s hot.

Another good West Macs stop is the scenic Glen Helen Gorge, which can be either easily added to the day or seen later. History, heritage and a drink with a view! We chose to visit on a separate day trip approaching from the other direction, after the Hermannsburg Historic Precinct.

This former Lutheran mission is now owned by the Western Arrarnta people and managed collaboratively with them by Finke River Mission. It was a focal point for the Arrarnta people as they struggled to survive the impacts of European colonisation, later struggling to provide sustainable livelihoods in an ever-changing world.

The precinct is probably best known as the home of Albert Namatjira: the famous indigenous watercolour artist who developed a distinctive Aboriginal school of Central Australian landscape painting. Namatjira’s work is widely acclaimed and exhibited around the world.

Ochre Pits

Glen Helen Gorge: history, heritage and a drink with a view!

Glen Helen Gorge

There are restored and original buildings to inspect – and if you’re fortunate, the Kata Anga Tea rooms will be open with their famous apple strudel, and scones with jam and cream.

Glen Helen is about 30 minutes’ up the road with spectacular landscape and impressive birdlife, with entry via Glen Helen Lodge. The trail leads you from the reception restaurant and bar along the riverbank by a succession of season-dependent tracks, under the eye-catching sandstone wall that towers above you.

It’s possible to make it all the way to edge of the gorge passage, but it is difficult to see around it. Lilos or canoes are recommended here, and it’s advised only strong swimmers continue through the gap. There is little opportunity to get out of the deep water without a steep and strenuous climb.

Mount Ziel

The return to Alice Springs from Glen Helen takes you past the Mount Ziel lookout. Take the climb to the top of the hill and look across the plains west to Gosses Bluff Meteorite Crater. From there, it is an easy drive back to town in good time for dinner!

Gosses Bluff Meteorite Crater from Mount Ziel

Have you ever explored Alice Springs (Mparntwe)? What’s your favourite part?

The post Day Trips in Mparntwe (Alice Springs): Part 1 appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We visited Kakadu National Park before heading to Litchfield, as part of the same Northern Territory trip. At more than 19,816km2, it’s bigger than you’d ever expect! It’s also rugged and quite time-consuming to get to the different attractions. Litchfield, on the other hand, is almost the complete opposite – everything is close, easy to get to, and there are more safe places to swim.

With effective management practices in place, Litchfield has more places that are safe for swimming.

Where is Litchfield National Park?

Located just over an hour’s drive, or 100km south of Darwin’s CBD, it’s no wonder locals head there all the time! Even just for a day trip, it’s quick and easy, with access from either the northern end via Berry Springs or from the eastern side through Batchelor.

Do you have to pay to enter?

No, Litchfield National Park is completely free to visit. The only money you’ll have to pay is if you choose to camp or dine at a café or restaurant. This is a stark contrast to Kakadu, which costs a chunk of money just to drive in through the gates!

When can you visit?

The peak season for Litchfield, and for the entire northern part of Australia, is from May through to November. This is the dry season and the time when you should expect warm, sunny days with almost no chance of rain. As you get closer to November the likelihood of wet weather increases, however, even in the wet season you can visit some attractions in Litchfield. As you might imagine the water holes and falls are completely different throughout the seasons, and it’s well worth planning a return visit to experience the changes.

Florence Falls is centred at the northern end of Litchfield National Park which is approx. 1500 km².

What about the 4WD tracks?

We always love the fact that you can access more places with a 4WD, and the same rings true at Litchfield. That said, a large portion of the park and the majority of the attractions are accessible via bitumen roads.

If you are keen to get off the blacktop and try out some 4WDing, here are a couple of options.

Reynold River 4WD track is 44km and involves some creek crossing.

Reynold River 4WD track

The Reynold River 4WD track is the most well-known track and cannot be attempted without a 4WD. The track starts off Litchfield Park Road and ends on Daly River Road, covering 44km of stunning scenery, water holes, muddy sections, and a couple of amazing attractions (which aren’t always open). It is well set up for water crossings and recoveries, so make sure your gear is easily accessible.

Starting on Litchfield Park Road, we stopped at Blyth Homestead – which is well and truly worth a visit – and then went on to Tjaynera Falls on Sandy Creek. We couldn’t go to Mistake Creek or Surprise Creek Falls, or do the rest of the Reynolds River track as it was closed due to high water levels.

Some of the crossings can be deep and should not be attempted without a snorkel attachment.

As it was, we drove through a couple of crossings with reasonably firm bases. But with the water level nearly reaching the car bonnet, you’d want to have some experience and know what to do when things go wrong. The worst water crossings are down towards Daly River Road, and when the track has only recently opened after being flooded, it can be very easy to get stuck!

This is one track where a snorkel on your vehicle is absolutely essential! Along with some decent tyres, and the knowledge to run the right tyre pressures and recover yourself as needed.

With those precautions in mind, this 4WD track is amazing! It takes you away from the incredibly busy attractions that are accessible by every man and his dog, to the more remote and quieter parts of the National Park.

Reynold River 4WD track is not recommended for inexperienced 4WDers!

Lost City 4WD track

Different terrain to the Reynold River track is the Lost City 4WD track. This one is relatively easy, but still requires skilled handling of rocks and rough surfaces. It can get closed off during the wet season, so it’s best to check conditions ahead of time.

Turning off Litchfield Park Road and down to the Lost City, this track is really only wide enough for one vehicle. You can find yourself having to hop off – or reverse backwards – into a nook to let others pass.

The Lost City is quite spectacular, though. It is a series of sandstone rock formations resembling an ancient ruined city. But, there’s nowhere to swim so go there early, or late in the day. Off this same road is the newly opened Central Valley campground. Access here is by 4WD only and you need a camping permit.

The Lost City is at the end of a very rough and rocky, 10km 4WD track that is usually only open in the dry season.

Walks & other attractions in Litchfield National Park

As mentioned, Litchfield’s attractions are all closely situated and you can quickly hop between them. It’s barely an hour’s drive along the bitumen from one end of the park to the farthest end, and given the spoils in between, it’s a win-win for everyone!

Some of the walks can be more challenging and require a basic hiking setup, including good footwear and a day pack with water, snacks, and a first aid kit – but many other walks are quick and easy to achieve.

Distances when heading south on Reynold River 4WD track.

Magnetic Termite Mounds

As you approach the national park it’s well worth stopping to check out the giant termite mounds. There’s a short, easy walk where you can learn a lot about the tiny termites.

Buley Rock Hole

One of our favourite attractions was Buley Rock Pools. This is a loop walk that takes you up a stream and has multiple rock pools, both small and large. There are also a lot of waterfalls and great places to kick back and relax.

Buley Rock Hole is especially good for young kids, with amazing places to sit in shallow water and splash around.

Relaxing at Buley Rockholes.

Florence Falls

One of Litchfield’s most popular attractions, Florence Falls is relatively easy to access. There’s a walking trail from the old 4WD camp or, if your knees are up to the challenge, you can take the 160 stair staircase. Either way, the falls are a beautiful place to swim and relax.

Tabletop Swamp

If you want somewhere to stop for lunch, Tabletop Swamp is in the middle of the park and an easy place to pull up and watch the wildlife.

The swimming hole at Florence Falls is really popular and can get very crowded!

Tolmer Falls

If you want to see a big waterfall from an easy to access lookout, Tolmer is for you. You can do a couple of walks here, but swimming is not permitted.

Greenant Creek and Tjaetaba Falls

Judging from the pictures, Greenant Creek and Tjaetaba Falls look stunning. Access involves a steeper and longer walk than some of the other spots, so we didn’t actually go there with the kids.

Wangi Falls

Aside from Florence Falls, Wangi Falls is the park’s other major attraction. It’s well set up with a café, free wifi, a huge grassy area, and plenty of room to swim, kick back, and relax.

You can do a lovely walk up the side of the falls, stopping at the lookout, and either returning from there or continuing in a loop back to the car park.

Together with Florence, Wangi Falls is the other really popular spot and is open all year round.

Cascades

The Cascades is the most difficult area to access, and as a result, was another spot in which we didn’t visit. The walk is apparently quite tricky and requires very sturdy footwear, but they look to be spectacular.

Walker Creek

A unique campsite, Walker Creek is set up for walk-in campers only. It’s a series of rock holes with camping sites scattered among them. Whether you are camping or day-tripping, the boardwalks are spectacular, and you see some beautiful little waterfalls and pools. We really enjoyed this spot, especially with an 18-month-old!

Bamboo Creek Tin Mine

Another spot missed on our trip was the Tin Mine. It provides an interesting history of the mining activities (along with Blythe Homestead) that took place in years gone by.

The crystal clear water of Walker Creek, where campsites are nestled among the banks of the rock holes.

Camping at Litchfield National Park

Expect it to be busy! Being so easily accessible, Litchfield is incredibly popular. It can be hard to secure a campsite and even find a car park at some of the bigger attractions. I’ve never seen so many people in a water hole than at Florence Falls, with families and everyone in the area bringing food and drinks down for the day.

There were literally people set up in hammocks over the little creeks, and swimming in the pool was crowded. If you want to enjoy it during a quieter time, go outside of peak season, or get up really early. I arrived not long after sunrise one day and basically had it to myself. It was a stark contrast.

Early mornings are the best at Florence Falls.

There are a couple of caravan parks, private properties, and safari camps close to Litchfield National Park, at which you can stay.

Alternatively, if you’re eager to stay within the National Park, you have four options:

• Florence Falls – there are two campsites here. One is situated higher up, and one is down the bottom where there was once a 4WD campsite. We stayed at the old 4WD campsite and loved it!
• Wangi Falls – this is a big campsite, located on the other side of the National Park, and is hugely popular.
• Walker Creek – for those with minimal gear, this is a walk-in camp and is mainly set up for overnight hikers.
• Sandy Creek, Surprise Creek Falls, and Central Valley – these 3 campsites require a 4WD for access. They are more off the beaten track and well worth the effort.

Camped at Surprise Creek Falls where toilet facilities are available.

Which is better – Litchfield or Kakadu? Have you been to either or both?

The post Litchfield National Park – Camping, 4WDing, & more appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In some parts of this big land, you can get sub-zero temperatures during the winter months, while in other areas the mercury can tip 50 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day. Then there are the arid and dry regions and some that are humid and muggy.

If you are touring and on the move, doing the big lap or even a half lap, with a little planning, you can have a good chance of avoiding the rain and cold temperatures for as long as you like. It’s all about being in the right part of Australia at the right time.

When touring with a tent, you are much more exposed to the weather.

Why does the weather matter?

Life on the road exposes you to the elements much more compared to when you are at home. More time is spent outdoors, and you often have less gear for managing inclement weather. Your travel setup will determine how vulnerable you are to changes in the weather and to what degree this influences when and where you go.

With a tent for shelter, you can’t simply shut the door, turn on the heater and kick back to see out the storm as you can at home. Even a caravan or motorhome is far more comfortable and accommodating in bad weather than a tent or swag, especially if your caravan is equipped with air conditioning and an onboard kitchen, toilet and shower.

Ultimately, the weather affects what you can do and how comfortable you are when doing it. Adverse weather needs to be managed differently so it’s important to plan the direction and timing of your trip.

The southwest of WA has plenty of rain in winter.

What do you have to think about?

There are 4 main weather conditions to be aware of when touring Australia:

• Temperature – there’s a big difference between 25 degrees and sub-zero, and if you aren’t prepared with appropriate gear, at best you’ll be uncomfortable but at worst, you can put yourself in significant danger.
• Wind – this is not entirely unpredictable as the wind tends to follow patterns related to the different seasons. However, if you are coastal camping or somewhere equally exposed and the wind blows its head off for several days straight, your trip is going to be really unpleasant.
• Rain and Snow – I like rain and snow, but only when I’m prepared for it. Some parts of Australia experience torrential downpours and no matter how well you’ve planned things, rainfall is hard to predict. On the other hand, snowy conditions are usually only during the winter months and designated to the alpine regions. If visiting during this time, it’s essential to stay informed on the current conditions and be properly equipped.
• Humidity – some folks love it while others struggle and if you’re exploring the northern parts of Australia all year round, some humidity is unavoidable. These conditions are at their peak during the wet season from November to April and can make a big difference to your comfort levels, especially if you are not used to it.

Swimming in Moore River, WA.

What does the weather affect?

Not only are your comfort and safety a concern, but the weather can affect everything from seasonal closures on roads and station camping to boating, fishing and other activities. We have had some nasty weather events in Australia over the last year which have only highlighted the importance of staying informed and being as prepared and safe as possible.

When it’s warm, everyone loves a swim to cool off but there are some areas where the beaches, creeks and rivers are unsafe. If you’re exploring the northern regions, that swim could go horribly wrong if crocodiles inhabit the water. In parts of the Murray River, the water on the surface looks inviting and calm but beneath lurks a frightening current that can potentially sweep you under. Planning your trip so that you can make the most of the weather and your environment will hopefully mean you can avoid being caught out in the middle of summer with nowhere safe to cool off!

A caravan makes for a much more comfortable trip.

What travel setup do you have?

We briefly mentioned above that different travel setups will suit different scenarios. If you have a caravan or motorhome and your plan is to hop between caravan parks through the wet season up north, it’s entirely possible to be comfortable at night with an air conditioner and use the onsite swimming pool to keep cool during the day.

Try it in a tent and you’ll probably have a hard time sleeping at night. Then when the build-up breaks into torrential rain, trying to cook a meal or stop your tent from floating away with the runoff will be a serious struggle.

Likewise, tent camping during cold weather is certainly doable with the right setup. An insulated mat and decent sleeping bag can make all the difference and if you are touring with a caravan or motorhome, chances are you’ll have heating.

Ultimately, you can travel and camp in most weather conditions, but it’s the gear that will determine your level of comfort.

The Duke of Orleans Bay in Esperance on the southwest coast of WA.

How to check the weather

The Bureau of Meteorology is the best place to visit when you’re planning your lap. The website might be a bit clunky and contains more data than you would ever need. But, you can literally look at years and years of weather history, including average monthly rainfall, temperature, humidity and wind.

For example, if we are planning a long beach camping trip we will always look at the winds for the previous year, and the averages for the time we want to go. Western Australia is well known for horrendous winds along the western coastline, especially during the ‘r‘ months – September, November, December, January, February, March and April.

Of course, history isn’t a guarantee that things are going to be perfect, but it gives you a much greater probability for what to expect and when so that you can plan for the weather you want.

The BOM website is great for pre-planning but once you are on the road, the app might be more user-friendly. We use this to keep an eye on the weather and adjust our plans accordingly. If a big storm front is coming in, it’s best to head away from the coast and seek some protection elsewhere. Consider that much of the northern part of Australia experiences cyclones and those conditions are not suitable for being on the road. You will need to seek appropriate shelter. Likewise, if you are travelling through a bushfire risk area during the warmer months, download the necessary state or territory apps and stay informed.

Other apps that are handy to have on your phone can be found here.

Crossing Manning Gorge northwest of Broome.

What is the ‘best’ weather?

This is where things get interesting! If you listen to the Snowys Podcast, you would have heard the two hosts discussing how people like travelling and camping in different weather. For some, kicking back around a campfire on a freezing winter’s night is as good as it gets. Yet others have had enough if the temperature drops below 15 degrees.

At the end of the day, it’s about matching your gear, activities and climatic preferences to the location that’s going to give you the best chance for an ideal experience. If you head along the south coast of Australia during June, July and August, you are not likely to get warm, sunny days and idyllic beach weather. If you’re wanting warmth, clear skies and sunshine, at that time of year you’re better off heading the other way and going north as far as you can!

There are 5 main climatic zones – tropical, sub-tropical, arid, Mediterranean and temperate. Although still regarded as temperate, the Australian Alps are more as the name suggests, alpine.

With the right gear, winter camping and kicking back around the campfire is a great experience.

During the southern winter, the areas north of the Tropic of Capricorn boast sunny and warm conditions. But when the south is experiencing its hot and dry summer, the north goes into its wet season with extreme humidity and torrential rain. It’s during this time that many places become inaccessible due to flooding and road closures, so to avoid disappointment and stay safe from cyclonic patterns, it’s best to tour the north from May through to October and head south from November to April.

There’s a reason why in summer, people head south for the cooler weather and in winter, everyone flocks north for their tropical getaways! The mass grey nomad migration in the wintertime is evidence of hundreds of thousands of people who don’t want to endure another cold and wet winter.

But each to their own. To get your perfect weather, just head in the direction that has the temperature and conditions you desire. If warm, sunny days for 365 days of the year is want you dream of, then you can plan you lap of Australia and for the most part, live your dream.

Your initial point of departure and the time of year in which you depart will determine the direction in which you first head off. So, here’s a 12-month guide to help kick-start your lap based on warm temperatures and minimal wind, rain/snow and humidity:

• November/December/January/February/March – follow the coastline south of the Tropic of Capricorn.
• April/May/September/October – start heading north and inland.
• June/July/August – anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn (coastal and inland).

Bear in mind there is some leeway and crossover between the ‘shoulder’ months what you want to avoid is the Red Centre during the peak of summer and the far tropical regions during the height of the Wet. If you love snow sports, it’s likely you’ll want to hit the Australian Alps during ski season so of course, there is some flexibility here, but you get the gist.

Perfect nights in the Kimberley.

In 2018, we left Perth in May and spent 3-months in a camper trailer. The only bad weather we had was the first, and last part of the trip when we were close to Perth. Once you hit the Shark Bay region on Australia’s Coral Coast, there is a distinct increase in temperature and a decrease in the chance of rain.

That is our perfect weather, and we often try and escape the Perth winter. However, we also love camping down south during the colder months but we do so with the right gear and are ready if the weather turns.

What’s your perfect weather for touring?

The post How to Get the Best Weather for Your Lap of Australia appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Having been there a few times now, I thought I’d share some insider tips that no one really tells you about, to help you make the most of a visit there.

If you’re thinking of visiting Uluru, there are some things you should know first. 

1. It’s the biggest monolith in the world

Uluru is massive, and certainly much bigger than most people expect, despite having seen any number of images of it over the years.

To be specific, it’s 9.4kms around, rises 863m above sea level, and there’s literally nothing anyone can say to prepare you for just how big and incredible it is.

What you might not know is that it’s the world’s largest monolith. 

2. It’s a long way from… everywhere!

I’m an enthusiastic road tripper, so the few times I’ve been I’ve driven up from Adelaide, which is a 1,600km drive. If I’m on a mission I can do it in two days with a stopover in Coober Pedy.

If I’m making a few stops along the way, (eg Arid Lands Botanic Gardens in Port Augusta, a few sights around Coober Pedy including the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, and numerous roadside stops to look at the local birds and wildlife), it takes me three days.

Most people prefer to fly to Alice Springs and think it’s close to there, and those people would be very wrong. It’s still 467kms from Alice, which can take around 5.5 hours so you need to keep in mind you’re still going to lose a big chunk of the day getting there, and another chunk getting back.

It’s a lot more remote than you would think, so plan your journey accordingly. 

3. The base walk is longer than you think, and further than they say

Officially they say the walk around the base of Uluru is 9.4kms, but that’s a bare rock-faced lie. If you do all the little extra bits along the way, which you totally should, it’s more like 14kms. So if you’re going to walk it make sure you allow quite a bit longer than you might originally think.

The official estimate is 3.5 hours and I usually divide that by about half because I hike fast, but last time I hiked it in the heat it took me 3:23 with all the stops along the way. I’d previously done it in close to 2.5 hours so it is possible to do it faster if you’re fit and enthusiastic.

It’s also worth noting the base walk is often quite far away from the rock itself. So if you’re expecting up close and personal, it’s worth keeping in mind that there are some parts of the hike where you can literally reach out and touch it, but about 75% of the walk is at a distance. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing though as it allows you to take in a full view which isn’t possible up close.

Allow for extra time to fully experience the base walk. 

4. Climbing has closed but there’s still plenty to do

Out of acknowledgement and respect to the traditional landowners of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, the rock is no longer open for climbing. This sacred site is of great significance to Aboriginal cultural identity and especially to the Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjatjara people, the Anangu Traditional Owners. Although this was recognised in 1985 with the official hand over of land rights and title deeds, Uluru is the resting place for ancient spirits of the Anangu and since October 26th, 2019, the great monolith must now only be appreciated through the many other activities on offer.

Cruise your way around Uluru on a Segway.

Free guided tours with rangers are also available through the National Park or for a unique experience on 2-wheels, join in with Uluru Segway Tours. Heads-up, possible restrictions and/or limited tour schedules are currently in place due to COVID, so check out the respective websites for up-to-date information.

The Field Of Light Uluru exhibition by Bruce Munro has been extended indefinitely. Image: Mark Pickthall

Tili Wiru Tjuta Nyakutjaku (Field Of Light) is a spectacular exhibition by Bruce Munro that uses 50,000 spindles of light to create a visual symphony covering more than seven football fields around the base of Uluru. There are various packages available, with more details available here.

You might not know that Uluru has waterholes, despite being in the heart of the red centre. 

5. Uluru has waterholes!

Many of the images of Uluru are of the big red rock in arid surrounds so a lot of people are surprised to find several waterholes around it. Some of these get fairly dry at various times throughout the year, but Mutitjulu on the eastern side is almost certain to have water.

If you’re not up to the full base walk, it’s only a short hike from a nearby car park. It’s absolutely stunning, and I’d say a ‘must see’ part of Uluru. You can also view some indigenous rock art at this location.

You can also view the Aboriginal rock art around Uluru. 

The Uluru climbing trail may now be closed but enthusiasts can still enjoy pretty much every other rock and hill and mountain in Australia. For the record, when I first visited Uluru, I wasn’t sure if I would climb it or not and when I experienced its immense dominance over the landscape and read the history and current issues of that time, I very quickly decided I could never do it. You can still have an amazing trip without the climb and hikers can still get their fix nearby.

6. Is nearby Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) even better than Uluru?

Okay, this is a controversial one, because Uluru is so iconic, but if I was feeling brave I might admit I personally like visiting Kata Tjuta even more than Uluru. And if not more, at least as much. Uluru may be a monolith, unique and world-famous, but Kata Tjuta and in particular the Valley of the Winds hike is a much better hike and experience.

Kata Tjuta, though lesser known is just as worth a visit. 

The Uluru base walk takes you around Uluru, but the Valley of the Winds hike takes you in, through and over and is way more immersive. There are canyons and monoliths and rock scrambles and creeks and different microenvironments.

All in all, a much more enjoyable experience, albeit without the same level of bragging rights when people ask “Where the hell is Kata Tjuta?”. Just tell them it’s the really good bit, often with fewer tourists, about 60kms down the road from Uluru. Well worth a visit!

TIP: On hot days above about 35°C they close the trail early so check with the ranger if it’s open before you head out there!

Don’t skip the Valley of the Winds hike when you’re there. 

7. You’ve got to be there early for the sunrise and sunset

Both Uluru and Kata Tjuta have designated sunrise and sunset viewing areas, and there’s no question that these are great places to get an awesome view. There’s only one catch: it’s where everyone goes to get an awesome view and can be a bit of a circus. Especially if you’re going to go to watch the sunset at Uluru, I strongly recommend getting there early and taking a chair. And a cool drink. Possibly even a few nibbles.

If you get there late, then your view may be obstructed. 

Set up your chair right up against the fence so you’ve reserved your little spot, then sit back, relax, and wait for sunset. An hour or so early is a good idea, otherwise, you’ll roll up and get a great view of the backs of everyone’s head.

Of course, there are various other places around the park where you can pull over and enjoy the view too, so maybe do a drive around in the afternoon and see if you can’t find a spot. It may not be as perfect as the official viewing area, but it may well be more relaxing and enjoyable.

You can enjoy the view from various areas, but if you want the best spot – get there early. 

One last thing!

Oh, and one last thing, a lot of people tend to race off the minute the sun sets and that’s just crazy. I strongly suggest sitting around for at least another half hour and enjoying the light dim beyond sunset. Watch the sky turn dark, the rock change colour again, and the stars come out.

Most of the people will have left, and it will be quiet and peaceful and beautiful. It’s probably my favourite time of day there.

Watching the stars come out is the most peaceful time in the park. 

Itinerary for a shorter Uluru trip

If you’re pressed for time, a recommended itinerary might look something like this:

Day 1

Uluru base walk then watch the sunset. Depending on the heat, I’d suggest doing the base walk as early as possible. If you arrive around midday as I did on my last trip, you can do the base walk in the afternoon. However, it can get pretty uncomfortable out there so slip, slop slap.

Also, take twice as much water as you think you’ll need!

Day 2

Get up early and watch the sunrise, then head over to Kata Tjuta to do the Valley of the Winds hike. If you’re still around, watch the sunset at Uluru again or head back to see it at Kata Tjuta.

You can find accommodation, a petrol station, supermarket and various stores, cafes and restaurants all at Yulara – the township that services the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

So there you go, I hope you took something away from my tips for visiting Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. If you do decide to visit this awe-inspiring place, you definitely won’t regret it!

Are you planning on road tripping up to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park? 

The post 7 Things They Don’t Tell You About Visiting Uluru appeared first on Snowys Blog.

For locals or interstate travellers looking ahead, we’ve put together a list of the best places to camp, hike, road trip and more so that you can plan your next getaway.

Some of these areas still have restrictions in place, or are opening very soon so we’ve included them and as soon as locals are given the green light to travel regionally again, you can go ahead with planning your trip. For the best up-to-date information on restrictions, check on the NT’s government’s website here.

With that out of the way, let’s get stuck into it!

If you just want to jump ahead to check out certain activities, then click the links below:

• Water adventures
• Camping & sightseeing
• Hiking & walking
• 4WDing and road trips

Water adventures 

Elsey National Park – Mataranka Thermal Pool & Bitter Springs

Gifted with awe-inspiring natural springs, Elsey National Park is located off the Stuart Highway about 1.5km south of Mataranka.

Opening from June 5, Bitter Springs is the larger of the two famous springs in the park and with water flowing gently throughout, you simply cannot resist jumping in to float around. Then after some time relaxing by the waters edge, there’s nothing to stop you doing the whole thing again. If you can get there super early, then you may be lucky enough to enjoy the pristine water and peaceful surrounds all to yourself.

Relax and unwind at Bitter Springs. Image: Aaron Schubert

Mataranka Thermal Pool is a popular spot for a day of relaxing and swimming. This is smaller than Bitter Springs, with incredibly warm water that you can spend hours relaxing in. Head here for updated information on when the park will be fully open to public again.

Head to Mataranka Thermal Pool for a day of swimming. Image: Aaron Schubert

Berry Springs

If you’ve got a day up your sleeve, drive 45 minutes from Darwin for a whole afternoon of swimming at Berry Springs. Bring a picnic and enjoy lunch in the shaded barbeque areas before paddling in the beautiful clear swimming pools. Berry Springs is currently open for swimming but for more details, check out this source here.

If you’re close to Darwin, Berry Springs is an ideal day trip. Image: Faye Martin

Palmerston Water Park

With free entry and a 14m high 6 lane race water slide on offer, plus a wading pool for smaller kids and a host of other facilities – there’s no excuse not to grab some friends and family for an afternoon at Palmerston Water Park. This park has barbeques and shaded picnic areas so you can relax in the shade with some lunch in between activities, and it’s only a short drive from Darwin.

Take the kids for a day at Palmerston Water Park. Image: Palmerston Water Park

Camping & sightseeing 

Lichfield National Park

A major attraction in the NT and just under an hour and a half from Darwin this national park won’t disappoint. With world-class scenery, waterfalls and gorges, beautiful walks and hikes, and even camping facilities available, all of it can be enjoyed as soon as you’ve pitched your tent. Buley Rock Hole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Sandy Creek are a few of the top spots, though some parts of the park are still closed, so head here for up to date info on the area.

Explore the wonders of Litchfield NP. Image: Aaron Schubert

Lorella Springs

Opening in early June to local Territorians, you’ll be able to head to Lorella Springs Wilderness Park for all the swimming, 4WDing, birdwatching, fishing, yabbying, and crabbing that you can handle.

This spot is towards the north-eastern part of the Territory and spans one-million-acres with the coast bounding its northern side. It’s full of hot springs, amazing water holes, waterfalls, gorges and pristine beauty that will make for life-long memories and a fun packed family trip. It’s located 30km off the Savannah way, in between Borraloola and Roper Bar. For more details and up to date health and safety information, head to the Lorella Springs website here.

Swim, 4WD, camp, fish, explore and more in Lorella Springs. Image: Aaron Schubert

Kakadu

Featuring 20,000 square kilometres of floodplains, estuaries, waterfalls and stone country to experience, Kakadu is Australia’s largest and arguably the most scenic national park. Located 133km from Darwin and 149km from Katherine, you can do it in a 2WD, but to truly get the most out of your trip, a 4WD is ideal. Grab your park pass, and camp out at the campgrounds, caravan park or other accommodation nearby. While you’re there check out Maguk’s infinity pool, Jim Jim Falls, Ubirr, the Yellow Water River Cruise, Twin Falls and other hidden gems in the park.

Though Kakadu is still currently closed, there are plans to reopen soon, so head to this site here for updated details.

Plan your adventure in Kakadu NP. Image: Faye Martin

Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park – Simpson’s Gap

Home to the near-endangered Black-Footed Rock Wallaby, the Simpson’s Gap area of Tjoritja National Park provides lovely short walks with spectacular views of the range. There’s also a waterhole and opportunities at dawn and dusk for spotting Wallaby mobs as they feed.

Although access to most of the National Park is currently limited, Simpson’s Gap is open and so too is the Simpson’s Gap Cycle Path. So if you’re itching to get on the bike and explore the open road, it’s time to oil that chain!

Starting at Flynns Grave and extending to Simpson’s Gap, the cycle path totals 17 kilometres in length and is suitable for people of all fitness levels and ages. Whether you want to go for a short ride or a longer one, this path provides panoramic scenery, plenty of wildlife spotting and informative signs along the way to stop and have a read while you rest.

Despite current closure of many areas in the West MacDonnell Ranges, it’s still worth planning that trip because once restrictions are lifted, there is so much more to explore.

Simpson’s Gap is open and ready for adventure. Image: Uncool Cycling Club

Hiking and walking 

Larapinta trail

This trail is not for the faint hearted, but for those who are up for it, the challenge will reward the hiker with some of the most incredible views of the West MacDonnell ranges. Covering 223km of arduous country, and divided into 12 sections, it has so many highlights along the way. On this trail, you will pass by Simpsons Gap, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge, Glen Helen as well as Mount Sonder.

It’s definitely a trail to spend some time preparing for, and as it’s still presently closed, you can start your preparations now to take on this iconic Australian walking trail in the near future. For updates on the trail, check in with this website here.

For hiking enthusiasts, the Larapinta is the challenge you’ve been looking for. Image: Kevin Leslie

Jatbula Trail

This one way walk is 62km long and takes you through the stunning Nitmiluk National Park. You’ll begin the journey at Nitmiluk Gorge and continue in the footsteps of Jawoyn People who travelled parts of this trail traditionally, with it finishing up at Leliyn (Edith Falls).  Though not open at the moment, you can still plan your hike for a future date and keep your eyes peeled for updates on when it opens here.

You’ll need bushwalking experience to tackle the Jatbula trail. Image: Peter Eve & Tourism NT

4WDing & road trips 

King’s Canyon and Watarrka National Park

For many adventure lovers, King’s Canyon is a location that will be on your bucket list. This park is home to an amazing array of animals, plants, birds and reptiles as well as the main event – the ancient red sandstone walls of the gorge itself. King’s Canyon is part of Watarrka National Park, which unfortunately is closed currently, so for updates on when it’s open head the NT Government’s website here.

The garden of Eden at Kings Canyon. Image: Bob West

Chamber’s Pillar – Itirkawarra

For those drawn to the outback, Chamber’s Pillar – Itirkawarra will be a worthwhile spot to add to your bucket list once restrictions have been lifted on June 5th. The famous sandstone formations – Chamber’s Pillar, Castle Rock and Window Rock are highly important and culturally significant in the creation stories of the Arrente Traditional Owners.

This reserve is located around 160km from Alice Springs along Old South Road, and a 4WD is recommended. It’s best to plan your visit when the sun is rising or setting so as to experience the spectacular play of colours, light and shadow across the pillar.

Sunset at Chamber’s Pillar/Itirkawarra. Image: Bob West

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park

This sacred place is probably somewhere that most outdoor enthusiasts would want to visit once in their lifetime. Though currently still closed, it’s well worth looking into taking a trip here to not only just view this iconic rock formation, but also to learn about the ancient cultural history of the traditional Anangu land owners.

Uluru base walk at Sunrise. Image: Sputnik

What’s your favourite place in the NT? 

The post Best of Northern Territory – Camping, Hiking, and 4WDing appeared first on Snowys Blog.

This trip is an experience our family will never forget.

Our plan

We had 16 days to go from Brisbane to the heart of the Simpson Desert (Munga-Thirri) and back. Our travel companions had to cancel, but with 6 months of research, planning and modifying our setup we decided to stick to the plan. We wanted a challenge and travelling solo with our kids and camper trailer was going to be next level.

All ready for our school holiday adventure. 

Breaking up the trip to keep the kids happy

Kids can’t do big days back to back in a car, they go nuts. So, a two-night stay at Cooper Creek early in the trip is a fantastic way to break up the huge kilometres needed to get to the Simpson. You can go kayaking, fishing or catching monster yabbies. Our kids were happy spending most of the day playing on a steep sandbank under the shade of the massive trees next to our camp.

A two-day stay at Cooper Creek was a great way to break up the journey. 

Going the distance

With a full day behind the wheel to get to Big Red, the kids needed to be distracted. Colouring books, scavenger hunts, travel battleship and eye spy are some of the activities we have in the car to keep the “are we there yet” question at bay. A small tub full of healthy snacks and treats is always at reach, as no more than 5 minutes after getting in the car it’s always “I’m hungry, what can I eat”.

One of the best ideas is a book on CD from the library, which provides hours of entertainment. Stop when you see something interesting, even just a 5-minute walk can really break the day up.

To keep the kids happy, stop if you see something interesting. 

Self-reliance in the desert

With 200L of diesel, 150L of water and bread & milk from Birdsville and enough food onboard for 2 weeks, we were completely self-reliant for the next 6 nights in the desert. The plan was to turn around and head back the way we came just before we got through half of our fuel, water or time – whichever came first.

We grabbed some supplies from Birdsville so we could make it halfway. 

The adventure begins

Big Red is the first test, so before you get there, be sure to prepare your 4WD. Attach the sand flag on the front, drop the tyres to 14psi, lock the hubs in, CB on the right channel, check everything on the car and trailer and get mentally prepared for what is coming up.

Sometimes it’s a good idea to get the kids away from the car so nothing is rushed or missed when preparing your vehicle for a trip like this. Being distracted can lead to silly mistakes and when you’re heading somewhere as remote as the Simpson desert, mistakes could be costly.

So, with Lara and the kids halfway up to Big Red, it was time to put our 25-year-old Nissan Patrol to the ultimate test. The cheer from the kids was ecstatic as I drove past, I knew then that this was going to be an awesome adventure.

The famous Big Red. 

Essential safety and recovery gear you need

Towing is the most difficult challenge and is not recommended even for the most experienced off-roaders in the Simpson desert. In terms of recovery gear, it’s a must to bring a minimum of 2 pairs of recovery boards, winch, recovery straps and a shovel. A sand flag and UHF is also required, as having a head-on at a crest is a real possibility.

A sand flag is a requirement for the Simpson. 

That sinking feeling

After successfully crossing some massive dunes we thought it was going to be a walk in the park. We were almost to the top of a pretty ordinary dune when we started bogging down. A quick gear change and we were sinking fast, so it was time for the recovery boards.

So, with the kids placing the boards under the wheels and shovelling sand away, it was a matter of slipping the clutch and gunning the engine and we were crawling to the top of the crest. The kids standing well clear with Lara were having a blast.

Recovery boards are essential for a Simpson trip.

The most amazing camping

Finding a camp is easy, look for a flat clay pan next to the track between the dunes and break out the tent. We are always set up before sunset, so we don’t miss the best part of the day. Our trailer turns into a great tent for the whole family in minutes when everyone pitches in. The kids have folding beds they setup. They wind down the stabilising legs on the trailer and help with the table and chairs before they can play.

We make sure the kids understand to stay in range when playing. 

On our first night, we had a snake bite training exercise, making the kids grab the first aid kit and practice what to do. Keeping an eye on the kids and making sure they stay together and out of the bushes is something we drill into them.

One of the most amazing things in the outback is the night sky. Incredible sunsets, big skies with no city lights or mountains, showing the kids millions of stars, dozens of satellites, shooting stars and meteors is all the entertainment we need.

The sunsets in the desert are incredible. 

Time to turn back

After an amazing 3 and a half days and making it to Attora Knolls, the decision was made to turn around. Crossing massive salt lakes, numerous boggings and the feeling of true isolation, we had achieved what we had set out to do.

Salt lakes are common in the Simpson.

With water down to half already, we had to be super conservative. Wet-wipe cleaning, a spray bottle of water for handwashing and saving every drop was a must. On our last night in the desert with just 1 hour to Birdsville, we had about 10L of water between the 4 of us and we still managed to have 2L when we rolled into town the next morning – 650km and 6 days after departing Birdsville.

Entering Munga-Thirri National Park.

10 essentials for travelling with kids in the Simpson Desert

• Nighttime pull-ups – you will not have water for washing bedding
• Wet wipes – saves water for cleaning anything and everything
• Hot water bottles and warm bedding – night time temperatures can be freezing
• Quality first aid kit – make sure you have some training too
• Toys and games – books, colouring, games and activities
• Fly nets, insect repellent, mozzie coils
• Warm and cold weather clothes, gloves and beanies
• Handheld UHF
• Whistle – so you can always hear the kids even if you can’t see them
• Satphone – at least if the worst were to happen, someone can talk you through it
• Sun smart gear – sun cream, hats, sunglasses, long-sleeved clothing

Our campsite set up for a night in the Simpson Desert. 

An experience we will never forget

Tackling the Simpson with our kids is an adventure we will never forget. We love sharing this lifestyle with them and could not imagine travelling without them.

Seeing the wonder in their eyes, teaching them things like water doesn’t just magically appear out of a tap, or just having a laugh with them trying to get unstuck from a sand dune.

We had the time of our lives on this trip.

It doesn’t matter that you have to travel during peak times and with time constraints, just get out there and explore this beautiful country and show your kids the beauty of the outback.

Have you done an outback trip with kids before? 

The post Travelling the Simpson Desert in the School Holidays appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In the 2018 dry season, we headed from Perth to the Western Australia/Northern Territory boundary and continued on, spending nearly 40 nights exploring the magic state of the Northern Territory.

Now I know, it’s not enough to scratch the surface, but we did find 6 amazing places to check out and would highly recommend them all.

The Helicopter Pool at Lorella.

1. Mataranka

The inspiration for burning my long service leave in one hit and taking a soft floor camper trailer and 18-month-old toddler with my wife to the Northern Territory stemmed from the photos of the hot springs we’d seen in years prior at Mataranka. They almost seemed too good to be true, but I can assure you they aren’t!

There is nothing that compares to laying back and floating your way around a hot spring. Mataranka has two hot springs, both of which are truly incredible.

At Mataranka, you need to visit Bitter Springs.

Bitter Springs

First off the bat is Bitter Springs, which is the more natural of the two, and is absolutely massive. The water flows gently around a stream and you jump in at one point, float around, get out and walk back before doing it all again.

Seriously, you can spend all day doing this – it’s so much fun. One thing worth mentioning is that it’s worth getting there super early. I arrived one day just as the sun was coming up, and spent about 30 minutes at the springs by myself with no one around.

Steam rising from the water and perfect reflections with no one to ruin the peace. Give it a couple of hours though, and there will be lots of people enjoying it with you!

An early morning at Bitter Springs.

Mataranka Thermal Pool

Once you’ve done Bitter Springs, head to Mataranka Thermal pool, which is located just behind the Mataranka Homestead Tourist Resort. This is much smaller, and in many ways like a couple of giant pools you’d have in your backyard, with one little difference. The water is incredibly warm, and perfect for spending hours in.

This is also extremely busy, and due to it being much easier to get to (shorter walk, and right next to the caravan park) it’s often full of tourists and those who can’t walk so far. This hot spring is much less natural with a fair bit of manmade intervention but the colour of the water and temperature is beautiful, and it’s certainly worth a stop.

If you are looking for a unique place to stay, Little Roper Stockcamp is fantastic, which is located near the middle of both hot springs.

Mataranka Thermal Pool.

2. Lorella Springs

Second to Mataranka in terms of inspiration for getting to the Northern Territory was Lorella Springs. We specifically drove 1000km further than we would have needed to and locked in 7 days there.

I don’t regret a second of that. Lorella Springs is absolutely amazing and by far and away one of the best places I’ve visited.

Nanny’s Retreat at Lorella.

At over a million acres, with camping permitted anywhere on the property (with common sense applied), some of the best fishing in the Northern Territory and amazing water holes/hot springs to spend the day in, you really can’t go wrong. Take all your toys including a dinghy and quad bike, if you like, and use them responsibly.

Lorella Springs is super remote and requires a bit of driving along the Savannah Way, including going down their 30km driveway. It is 4WD access only (or high clearance 2WD might be okay!). If you like adventure and stunning scenery Lorella Springs is for you!

Bring your toys to Lorella Springs.

3. Douglas Hot Springs

One of the places we regretted not staying at for a few nights was Douglas Hot Springs. We visited for a few hours from our campsite at Mt Bundy Station and would have loved a few nights there. The campground is nothing to write home about, but the hot springs are truly incredible.

In essence, it’s two small creeks/rivers that meet together. One is hot, and one is cold, and you get to find the perfect place to sit. There are warm temperatures in the shallow regions, which means it’s perfect for kids to jump around in even if they can’t swim too well.

We wish we stayed longer at Douglas Hot Springs.

If you walk up the hot side, you’ll eventually get to where the water bubbles out of the ground, and it’s comfortably hot enough to give you a good burn if you get too close. The area is super picturesque too, and well worth spending a few hours relaxing in.

Accessing Douglas Hot Springs is off a well-maintained gravel road, with a couple of small puddles/creek crossings to go through. We did see a Toyota Camry go through carefully, so you shouldn’t have access issues.

Splashing around in the hot springs.

4. Kakadu

Now, everyone who knows the Northern Territory knows about Kakadu National Park. It’s super popular, incredibly beautiful and has dual world heritage status for its outstanding natural and cultural values.

What you may not know is that Kakadu is gigantic. It’s actually the largest national park in Australia, covering more than 19,000km2. It’s also one of the first national parks I’ve driven through that has bitumen covering a significant part of the park, and that’s no mean feat when it’s over 150km of bitumen from top to bottom!

Ubirr has some stunning views.

This means that whether you have a 4WD or 2WD vehicle, you can access some of the park and see it for yourselves. Of course, there are 4WD accessible locations only, or you can jump on a tour and do them in the comforts of a bus/truck.

There are so many incredible places to see within Kakadu National Park. Ubirr has some of the best views I’ve ever seen; Cahill’s crossing is a hot spot for seeing large saltwater crocodiles, the Yellow Water Cruise is spectacular for seeing the wildlife from a boat; Maguk is super pretty; Gunlom is spectacular with great swimming at the top and the bottom and Koolpin Gorge is the place to go if you want to get away from the crowds.

Koolpin Gorge is quiet and beautiful.

Of course, this is estuarine crocodile territory, and people have been killed in years gone by so obey the signs, use your common sense and take all the relevant precautions when it comes to crocodile safety!

There are plenty of great places to stay at, with Sandy Billabong a nice out of the way and 4WD accessible site, Maguk being nice and shady, and Gunlom having the nicest campground outside of the caravan parks.

A saltwater crocodile at Kakadu.

5. Litchfield

Again, Litchfield goes hand-in-hand with the Northern Territory major attractions, and it’s no wonder why when you visit. Access is free, camping is cheap as chips, everything is super close together and it is nothing short of breathtaking.

I expected Litchfield to be amazing, but it blew me away even more time and time again. Swimming is easily done, the scenery is world-class, accessing all parts of the park is easy and the hiking is incredible.

Most of the park is bitumen accessible, with the exception of some of the southern section. This includes a fairly challenging 4WD track known as the Reynold River 4WD Track. Unfortunately for us most of this was shut when we visited, but the southernmost section is supposed to be a lot of fun.

Amazing sunset with burn-offs at Litchfield.

Buley Rock Hole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Sandy Creek are top spots, and 100% worth visiting. Litchfield National Park has a fantastic, chilled out atmosphere but camping spots can be hard to get, so get there early.

A lot of people compare Litchfield to Kakadu. If you have time, do both. However, if you have limited time, Litchfield is better for swimming and easy to access. But, Kakadu is bigger in every way, and more magnificent in some ways.

If you want to stay, there are camping opportunities at Florence Falls, Wangi Falls, Sandy Creek, Litchfield Safari Camp and a number of caravan parks outside of the National Park.

Sandy Creek at Lichfield.

6. Zebra Rock Mine

By geographical location, Zebra Rock Mine only just scrapes into the Northern Territory, but it completely deserves to be on this list. You’ll find it not far from the WA/NT boundary, a short drive off the main road down a well-maintained gravel road. This is only open during the dry season and is a unique and spectacular location.

Known for the Zebra Rock, not found anywhere else in the world, the Zebra Rock Mine is a small camping location on the edge of Lake Argyle. They do great fish and chips, tours of their little mine and boat tours on Lake Argyle which come highly recommended.

A close up of the zebra rock. 

Scientists, mathematicians and tourists come from all over to see this incredible rock which you can purchase in small amounts. The owners want to keep the majority of it in the ground to preserve it, and the mine tour is certainly worth a visit.

If you do the mine tour you get to take a small piece of rock home, and they show you how to clean it up and make it worthy of sitting on your mantle.

Great camp spots at Zebra Rock Mine.

The Northern Territory is an amazing state, and there are so many places worth visiting. If you haven’t been before, put it on your bucket list. You’ll love it!

See you out there!

What’s your favourite spot in the NT?

The post 6 Amazing Places to Visit in the Northern Territory appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We had to stop numerous times and get the packs off and rest. Fortunately, there was a breeze that helped cool us down when we stopped, but it did little to rid us of the flies. I have travelled many times to Central Australia and never have I seen flies as bad as this.

They swarmed over us, trying to get into our ears, eyes, mouth and nose. Even with fly nets over our heads, there were still a few that managed to get in and drive us crazy.

Each time we moved they would take off in a cloud and buzz around before settling again on any part of us they could find. It was a hard start to the walk, and we had eighteen days and two hundred and thirty kilometres to go.

Sunrise on the Larapinta Trail. 

Reaching the top of Euro Ridge

We finally reached the top of Euro Ridge and had fantastic views to the south as well as being able to look back to Alice Springs. Eventually, we started to descend off the ridge, which meant we didn’t have far to go until we arrived at Wallaby Gap, our first camp.

We each only had about a cup of water each left at this stage and was looking forward to having a big drink. At last, we saw the shelter and were able to finally get the packs off and stop.

Making it to the top of Euro Ridge. 

The first night on the trail

To say we were shattered was, to say the least. The flies had gone for the day so it was tent up, a quick wash behind a suitable tree and then dinner. I had trouble settling as it was a warm night and I was very sweaty and restless. Then both my legs started to cramp.

I had never had cramps like this before. I had been drinking electrolyte drinks throughout the day, to avoid this but it obviously wasn’t enough.

Laying in bed after the cramps settled down, sweaty, aching, and exhausted, after only the first day, I really wondered if I was going to make it all the way to the end.

There are lots and lots of rocks on this trail. 

The Larapinta Trail

The Larapinta trail is 223 km long and covers some very challenging country. It’s not an easy trail, with some serious climbs up to the ridges and the occasional rock scramble. But the views, once at the top are fantastic. However, there are lots and lots and lots of rocks.

Your hiking boots need to be in good condition and worn in properly so that they’re comfortable and you don’t get blisters. Lighter shoes are worn at the wearer’s risk.

Flies, what flies?

Food drops on the trail

It is necessary to arrange three food drops for resupply along the trail at Stanley Chasm, Ellery Creek and Ormiston Gorge. A key is needed to access the storage areas for your food drops, which is obtained from the Alice Springs Visitors Centre (booking ahead is essential).

You can do the food drops yourself or there are tour companies that can arrange things for you. It is also necessary to arrange a pick-up or drop off at the end or start, depending on which way you are walking.

Arranging the hike ourselves

We decided to arrange everything ourselves, mainly because we were a bit late in getting our A into G. We were, however, able to arrange a pickup at the end that would take us back to Glenn Helen where we would leave our car and caravan. To get to the start we had a hire car which we drove back to Alice Springs, then a taxi to the official start of the trail.

This sounds a bit tricky but, in the end, we got it all sorted and saved several hundred dollars in doing so.

One of our campsites along the trail.

The second day – arriving at Simpsons Gap

The second day was much easier than the first and we arrived at Simpsons Gap after lunch. After setting up camp we went down to see the Gap. The water was cold as I walked in up to my thighs to try and help my legs. We managed to spot a couple of yellow-footed rock-wallabies up the side of the Gap and found a mobile hotspot where we got phone reception so we could check in with our family.

What I did find useful was the USB ports at the shelters powered by a solar panel that we used to charge our cameras and phones. A group of year 9 boys from a Sydney school then arrived, and it was rather entertaining to watch them set up their tents and start cooking dinner on their Trangia stoves. They all seemed to be going okay though, and everyone was in bed shortly after dark.

The next couple of days

The next few days were relatively easy with mostly flat walking. The only steep climb was up to Loretta’s Lookout just before Millers Flat. There was, however, a choice here to go up or go around. With memories of our first day still in our minds, we chose to go around.

We also started to see a discrepancy in the distance markers. Going to Mulga Camp from Simpsons Gap was supposed to be 13.7k, but we got a little worried when we saw the 14k marker followed by the 12k marker. We thought we may have missed the camp and we didn’t have enough water to make it to the next camp.

There are some magical views along this hike. 

Arriving at the campsite

Eventually, at 16km, we arrived at the campsite, there is no shelter here but there are some tables, a toilet, a water tank,  as well as the worst flies on the entire trip. They swarmed over everything. It was a relief when the sun started to set because the flies went to bed and we were able to prepare dinner.

Preparing dehydrated meals for the hike

For this trip, we had gone to the trouble of making our own dehydrated meals instead of buying freeze-dried food. We usually start preparing meals weeks in advance, by cooking extra amounts of food whenever we make meals, such as curries or casseroles. We have a dehydrator, so once dried we then vacuum seal the meals into double serves, and freeze them until they’re needed. For more information on how to dehydrate food for hiking, read this article here.

Walking through Bond Gap. 

The areas of the trail affected by fires

We were now starting to see a lot of burnt areas that were the result of some big fires earlier in the year. Some of these areas were big, all around the trail, up the sides of the hills and gullies which were totally burnt out. There has been a huge effort from National Park staff and volunteers to get the track open in time for the walking season.

Beware of trail upgrades that affect the length of the sections

The distance between Mulga Camp and Jay Creek was again different from our guide book. We found out later that some sections of the trail occasionally get upgraded and travel a slightly different route, resulting in longer or sometimes shorter sections. However, usually, there are only minor differences of a couple of kilometres.

The shelter at Jay Creek.

Making friends along the way

You meet some interesting people on walks like this, and usually, you meet up with those people walking in the same direction each night. This is one part of hiking that I really enjoy, each evening you can chat and compare your experiences of the day. It almost becomes like a small walking group of your own.

At Jay Creek, we met a small group coming the other way who were exhausted, with warnings of a difficult day ahead of us the next day. We were planning to walk past Miller’s Camp the next day so that we didn’t have to stay at a dry campsite, which meant we had to carry extra water. So, we got up extra early to get a good start.

Straight up then turn left!

Animals on the Larapinta trail

There were notices that cattle may be seen on these sections and although we didn’t see any, we did hear them at night sometimes and saw where they’d been during the day.

I must say it was disturbing to see the damage they do. The grasses beside the trail were trampled and waterholes were turned into disgusting mud holes with lumps of cow dung in them. I do not know if they are wild or belong to surrounding cattle stations, but we were in a National Park, cattle do not belong here.

We didn’t see much animal life at all on the trail which may have been the result of the fires. But apart from the occasional bird, we didn’t see anything. Even the Dingoes were scarce, although we did hear them howling on a couple of nights.

This area showed signs of damage from the fire. 

Challenges on the trail

All along the Larapinta, there are blue trail markers that point the way to go. They are well placed and easy to see. What did surprise us was when we came across a marker that pointed straight up a rock wall.

We had reached a dry waterfall of about 4 metres high, and the marker literally pointed straight up and partway up there was another pointing at right angles along a rock face.

This was a bit of a challenge for me, a 61-year old that was still getting his trail legs and didn’t like hanging off rock faces. Fortunately, there were lots of hand and footholds so it was a matter of one step at a time, and we both made it safely up and over.

We could see why the group coming the other way found it difficult. The steep sections we were going down, they would have had to come up. Especially the last part going into Standley Chasm with a couple of very steep short ridges to cross. At last, we arrived at Standley Chasm and could see how close the flames had come to the buildings.

The trail snakes its way up a burnt-out gorge.

Lunch at the kiosk at Stanley Chasm

All around outside the main area was blackened bush. Luckily the camping area was still green, and there were toilets, a laundry and showers. The kiosk sells drinks and hot food and we certainly enjoyed the hamburger and chips we had for a late lunch.

This was the only day we had any rain, right as we were putting up the tent and sorting out our first food drop. So, we put it all in the tent and went for a coffee. We were, however, able to get some washing done while there, and the next day with packs full once again, we set off towards Brinkley Bluff.

Sunlight over the MacDonnell Ranges.

Heading off towards Brinkley Bluff

It was quite a climb with a steep zig-zagging trail that went up and up. Some parts we were going along cliff tops on narrow ridges with fantastic views both sides.

Once at the top, we chose a tent site which is a small area cleared of rocks that is just big enough for a 2-man tent. We erected our tent and had a cuppa, then relaxed until it was time for dinner. There is limited phone reception at the top but we were able to get in touch with family once again.

There were quite a few people up there that night, and we all watched the sunset and moonrise. It was a full moon and it was glorious. Unfortunately, with the moon so bright, we didn’t get many stars but that would come later as the moon changed phases later in the walk.

Setting up camp for the night.

Being on an exposed ridge, it got a little windy through the night but luckily, we were on the protected side so most of the wind went over us. Still, our tent rattled a fair bit.

We were up early the next day to watch the spectacular colours of the sunrise, and at the other end of the horizon, we saw the moon set behind the distant mountain range. It was a unique experience as the colours of the surrounding mountains changed as the new day began.

The trip down from Brinkley Bluff made me glad we were walking in the direction we were, as it was very steep and windy with quite a few narrow sections that made me a little nervous.

The Larapinta Trail can get narrow at times. 

Camping near Birthday Waterhole

The camp that night was the 4/5 junction near Birthday Waterhole where there were quite a few people already set up. Picking a tent site can be a challenge. We wanted the shade as the days were quite warm, but as the sun got low in the sky, we wanted the last rays to keep warm as the nights were getting colder.

From the 4/5 junction, we had to go over Razor Back Ridge, which sounded interesting. The day started relatively easy but as it often did the trail headed up a creek bed and we were soon going over large boulders and between cycads and trees, following our own path as there were no constructed trails in those narrow gorges.

Luckily most of the area had escaped the fires so it was quite nice to experience a different part of the trail.

Linda making her way up a gorge. 

Razorback ridge living up to its name

Razorback Ridge lived up to its name, as it consisted of a very narrow ridge top of fractured rock with steep slopes on both sides. Here there were more of those direction arrows that simply pointed down or up steep rock faces which meant a bit of rock scrambling.

After we came off it, we looked back and said to ourselves “we crossed that?!” It was then downhill to a dry camp at Fringe Lily Creek in a lovely shady gorge by a dry creek bed.

The nights were getting very cold and often in the mornings we would have ice on the tent that we would shake off then allow to dry in the morning sun.

Another ‘turn here’ sign on the trail. 

We had a good routine by now with getting up at daybreak usually around 7:00 am – dress, have breakfast, get boots and gaiters on, then fold the tent, pack our backpacks, and leave camp around 8:30 am. When we started walking we would have extra layers on but once we were underway it didn’t take long to warm up once the sun started to come over the ridges.

Navigating the bright red rocks.

For the next few days, we walked through a variety of terrain. There were still some burnt-out areas, but luckily there were also some parts that were unaffected. Ghost Gum Flat was one area that was spared and thank goodness it was. It’s a lovely spot with lots of ghost gums scattered throughout the bush. We came across a couple of Major Mitchell cockatoos when we arrived. They didn’t seem too worried by us being there and we were able to get a couple of good photos.

Luckily, Ghost Gum Flat was unharmed in the fires. 

Arriving at Ellery Creek

Ellery Creek was our next food drop location and we arrived early in the afternoon. So, after we set up camp, we went down to the swimming hole where there were quite a few people. The water was cold though and anyone that jumped in usually came back out again quickly.

Ellery Creek is a popular destination to visit along this hike. 

Adding treats to our resupply box

Something we decided to put in each of our resupply boxes was a bottle of wine. That meant we had a cup each with dinner on the day of our resupply then I would pour the rest into one of our empty water bladders so that we were able to have another cup the next night. It was a nice treat to look forward to each time we resupplied.

Leaving Ellery Creek, I had our only fall of the walk. Going downhill I slipped on some loose stones and ended up in a spinifex bush. I only had a few grazes but the spinifex was another matter. That hurt more than the fall, and I was still pulling out prickles three days later.

The storage room where the resupply boxes are kept.

Along this section, we decided to walk past the camp at Waterfall Gorge to have a shorter day going into Ormiston Gorge. This was a long day made harder because we were carrying almost 6 litres of water, as it was another dry camp that night.

We had a long climb up to a saddle at first, then back down and through a gorge, which the trail largely skirted by going up over the side on short steep climbs. Then we started towards the Mt Giles lookout. Firstly, following a zig-zag trail, then some rock scrambles, finally arriving at the top exhausted.

After another 1.4km along the ridge, we arrived at the campsite at about 4:30 pm – tired and footsore, where we joined several others. We were so tired that after dinner we went straight to bed.

Yes, this is part of the trail!

Arriving at Ormiston Gorge

The track down was nearly as steep as the way up. Thankfully it was a much shorter day so we arrived at Ormiston Gorge just after lunch. Here I bought a pie for lunch and Linda bought a bacon/cheese/egg muffin, and we both had iced chocolate drinks. It certainly beat the crackers with cheese or tuna.

It was sad to see how huge areas were burnt in the fires. 

Our last food drop point

This was our last food drop point, so we were able to resupply, get some clothes washed and have showers, which felt so good. We then went back to the Kiosk for date scones and tea. Had a cup of soup for dinner that night then into bed.

We had heard from some other walkers that on the section we had just completed, a number of people were coming down with gastro. While we tried to watch our personal hygiene, I managed to get a touch of it but not as bad as one walker we met at Ormiston Gorge who had spent 3 days in his tent sick. His walking companion said he was not a person to give up, but three days?!

We left the next morning on this the last section. We had 4 days worth of supplies that would take us through to Redbank Gorge and to the end of the Larapinta Trail.

The bush making a comeback. 

Camping at Finke River

The camp that night was at Finke River. This river is possibly the oldest river bed in the world. It’s broad and sandy, but after heavy rain, it can break it’s banks and spread across the surrounding countryside. This is evident when you can see debris in the trees above our heads when standing on the banks.

Parts of the Finke River still had water. 

Walking to the Glenn Helen Resort for lunch

We arrived here at lunchtime so after we put the tent up, we left our packs inside and walked the 3.5km to Glenn Helen Lodge where we had another burger and chips for lunch followed by ice cream.

We had left our 4WD and caravan here so we were able to check it was okay and reassure the receptionist that we would actually come back and pick it up. One of the other walkers was staying the night here and although it was tempting to do the same, we decided to go back to camp and have a dehydrated meal for dinner.

This was our coldest night, and we were informed by one of the others it went down to -2.8°C overnight. They camped in the riverbed and we may have been a little warmer, but it was still icy. At least when the condensation on the fly froze, we were able to shake the worst off first, then allow it to dry.

With Mt Sonder ahead, we were almost there. 

The second to last day

Our second last day was mostly flattish with a few ups and downs, but the Larapinta still had a last reminder of what this country is about. Another steep climb saw us having lunch on another hilltop lookout. This was a lovely spot for lunch with a downhill section to our second to last camp. We were now away from the burnt areas and the country was looking fantastic. The camp was a welcome sight as I was now struggling with wobbly legs and weakness due to mild gastro.

We were now passed the burnt areas of the trail.

We made camp and had a cup of tea, and tried to make stone stools to sit on with limited success. It was a bit challenging as you had to place a lot of little stones between the layers to stop it rocking, so you didn’t fall off.

Trying not to fall off our stone stools. 

The last day

Our last day was relatively short and we arrived just before lunch. I would have thought there may have been a sign to say you made it or that you were about to start the trail. But nothing.

After we set up camp, Linda went for a walk into Redbank Gorge while I had a nap. I watched a small flock of Zebra Finches getting water from a hollowed rock under the tap on the water tank, then just relaxed.

We observed a small flock of Zebra finches having a drink.

We were actually a day ahead of schedule so the plan for the next day was to walk up Mt Sonder to the official trail end. Since I was a bit under the weather I was going to wait at the carpark hoping the tour company that was due to pick us up the next day might be transporting someone else, and give me a ride back to our car early. I would then come back and get Linda and we would head off with an extra day up our sleeve.

It was a long shot, which didn’t work, so I went for a short walk into Redbank Gorge and came back in time to meet up with Linda. However, Linda did meet a lady on Mt Sonder that was going back to Glenn Helen and when asked, she said she would give me a lift.

Cairn at the top of Mt Sonder. 

The end of the hike

So, that’s how we finished. I returned to Redbank Gorge with the car and picked up Linda, we then went back to Glenn Helen, spent the night there and drove out the following day.

Driving back to Alice Springs we could see the various ranges that we had spent the last 18 days walking over and reflected on the trip and some of those hidden gorges and wonderful views that were had from the mountains.

Linda and I on the trail. 

Would I do the Larapinta Trail again?

Some people walk the Larapinta Trail several times. Would I do it again? Probably not. Did I enjoy it? There were some parts that I really did enjoy, although there were times that I really thought what on earth am I doing here? But it was an experience that won’t be forgotten.

So, if you like to challenge yourself on a rugged, long-distance trail? Then I would certainly recommend you walk the Larapinta Trail.

What’s the most challenging long-distance hike you’ve ever done? 

The post Hiking the Larapinta Trail – Not Just For The Young appeared first on Snowys Blog.

But my world has been flipped upside-down and I never want this summer to end. Max and I have been here two months now, and hopefully, we can give you a few tips on making the most of your time in and around Darwin.

Visit the Tiwi Islands, located just across the water from Darwin. Image: iamsavi 

1. Sunday (or Thursday) nights at Mindil Markets

There is literally something going on every weekend and quite often it all ties in with Mindil Market. All your foodie dreams can really come true here, by the beach with live music and a side of whip-cracking. Every cuisine under the sun is waiting for you, you just have to decide. You’ll also find a selection of local products like crocodile leather and natural insect repellents.

Enjoy a barbeque while you watch the sun go down at Sunset Park. 

2. Sunsets at Sunset Park

Sunset Park is one of the best places in town to see the sun go down and flip a burger at the same time. There’s a big park if you’ve decided to drag some small humans along for the journey and lots of grass for your four-legged friends. There are plenty of BBQs around and picnic tables so that you can make an evening of it.

Try to get to Berry Springs on a weekday to avoid the crowds.

3. A dip at Berry Springs

This place is no secret at all, and it goes off on the weekend. So considering this, get there early or at least on a weekday. This tropical oasis is so damn lovely, the water is blue and has the perfect temperature to cool off in. There are beautiful lawns to BYO picnic and shelter under the shade of pandanus.

Gunn Point is a great place to camp by the beach. 

4. Camping at Gunn Point & Fishing at Stingray Head

Both beautiful beach camping sites with sunsets over the water, 1.5-2 hours drive on opposite sides of the city. Gunn Point to the northeast is easy to access but for Stingray Head which is just out of Dundee to the southwest, you’ll need a 4WD and a Hema Map. As of September 2022, camping at Stingray Head has been banned – but day activities such as fishing and beach access is still permitted.

Take your 4WD to Stingray Head for the weekend – but for day use only (camping here is no longer permitted).

5.  Play at Palmerston Waterpark

With so many crocodiles sneaking around the Top End, Darwin has done its duty and supplied a water park to keep the adults and kids entertained… and alive. Always be #crocwise and swim in crocodile risk management areas. These water parks are so much fun and hard to believe they are free!

Bynoe is a hotspot for fishing. 

6. Fishing at Bynoe

We got ourselves onto a few barramundi out here and now it’s our local. Stay out at Sandpalms Tavern, camping or motel, and drop the boat in just a kilometre away. The intricate waterways offer plenty of drains and snags to throw a vibe at and catch a chromie. Sandpalms also have 3 resident crocs – Two Dogs, Shrek and Fiona, in case you needed a close-up reminder of how big and scary crocs are.

For a luxurious camping experience, the Top End Safari Camp can’t be beaten.

7. Top End Safari Camp

The Top End Safari Camp is by far my favourite all-round Top End experience! Get picked up from the city and make a pit stop at Berry Springs on your way. When you arrive at camp and get settled into some of the most luxurious camping you’ll ever do, don’t get too relaxed. At any moment you’ll be up in a helicopter spotting wildlife or drifting down Sweets Lagoon on an airboat.

There’ll be time to score a selfie with one of our resident crocs and watch the outback evening colours change from the pool. Oh, and did I mention that breakfast, BBQ dinners and cheese boards are all included?

Grab a selfie with a croc on the Top End Safari.

8. Day tripping cultural experience on Tiwi Islands

Tiwi Islands are comprised of Melville Island, Bathurst Island and nine smaller uninhabited islands and are best known for the artists and AFL players it produces. On a day trip, you can see art demonstrations with in-house artists. Tiwi women elders serve damper and billy tea whilst they show you how to weave baskets from pandanus leaves.

Also, you can get a full tour of the Top End Wedding feature film set. You can either take a day trip with ferry transfers, or you can do things a little jazzier, take a helicopter, include a heli-fishing tour and a night away at a resort.

Take a helicopter over to the Tiwi Islands. Image: iamsavi 

9. Litchfield National Park

This is one of nature’s prettiest parks. I’d recommend 3-4 nights here to really get to know the place, but a day trip from the city isn’t hard either. During the peak season this place really ramps up in popularity and you will need to get to the campgrounds before 10:30 am to secure a spot.

Wangi Falls, Buley Rockhole and Florence Falls are the obvious hit spots. But, do yourself a favour and explore around Tolmer Falls, Walker Creek, Sandy Creek and Surprise Creek too.

Explore the natural wonders at Litchfield National Park. 

10. Kaka-do

I’ve written a piece on Kakadu before which can you can read all about here. Litchfield is pretty and cute but Kakadu is huge and majestic, and an overnighter is a definite.

Swimming in the Moline Rockhole in Kakadu National Park.

Don’t let a tropical Darwin summer, otherwise known as the wet season scare you away, the Territory lights up with a bit of rain and is a must-see in all seasons. The waterfalls are pumping, the storms are the best light show you’ll ever see, and the fishing is on fire.

What’s your favourite spot in the Top End? 

The post 10 Best Things to do in Darwin, Northern Territory appeared first on Snowys Blog.

On our 3 month trip through the Northern Territory, Kimberley, Pilbara and Coral Coast, we spent 7 days at Lorella Springs Station and didn’t want to leave.

Located in the northern part of the Northern Territory, Lorella Springs is a one-million-acre property that backs onto the coast and is full of hot springs, amazing water holes, waterfalls, gorges and pristine beauty like you’ve never seen before.

The pristine waters at Snapping Billabong in Lorella Springs. 

The best part? You can visit, stay and access the entire property. No matter how young or old you are, if you love adventure this place takes the cake any day of the week.

With over 1000km of 4WD tracks, the most pristine water holes for swimming and the most ridiculous fishing you’ll do in the country it’s impossible to have a bad time.

Camp out at Lorella, and enjoy all that it has to offer. 

How big is Lorella?

If you are like me, a million acres doesn’t really mean much. Let’s put it into perspective – its 4046km2, or more than 5 times bigger than Singapore. Lorella takes you hours to drive from one side to the other, and even the owners haven’t seen it all. Seriously – they had just found a new spot in the weeks leading up to our visit!

The vastness of the station means there is so much to explore.

Getting there

Lorella Springs is located 30km off the Savannah way, in between Borraloola and Roper Bar. The driveway is 30km long and consists of gravel, bulldust, sand and a few little water crossings.

You can get a 2WD or AWD vehicle into the station if it has a reasonable amount of clearance, but it’s much safer to go in a 4WD.

We went to Lorella from Mataranka via Daly Waters and left via the Savannah way into Roper Bar. It’s primarily single lane bitumen the way we went in, and relatively rough gravel roads out to Roper Bar (depending on current road conditions of course).

Exploring the property.

Where can you camp?

Camping is permitted anywhere on the property, with a number of spots that are popular to stay at. The main campground is located near the homestead and has a huge amount of room to camp wherever you want. Pick a spot near the rivers, in the middle or close to the toilets and showers.

There are no lines marked out for where you need to camp, no designated fire pits and best of all, no neighbours within a few metres of you!

There’s the main campground, but you can also camp all over the station. 

Facilities and amenities

On the way into Lorella, you’ll see a huge number of signs detailing some of the amenities that they have. It really does cater for every type of person.

There’s a bar and a restaurant, rooms you can hire and some very basic supplies can be bought from the store. Flushing toilets and gas hot water showers had just been completed when we had arrived in the main campground, and there is a donkey hot water system on the other side of the campground.

All of your expenses are put on a tab, and you pay it on the day of departure. This makes life much easier and quicker.

Lorella provides many oppurtunity to swim. 

Sign in, sign out

One of the safety precautions Lorella Springs has introduced is a sign in and sign out book. This is done purely because of the size of the property, and the logistics involved with ensuring everyone stays accounted for and safe.

Each morning, you head to the reception area and have a chat with the volunteers and staff. They will give you any information you require about places to go, water levels, track difficulty and travel times and then you put your name down in the book.

When you get home, you sign out. If for some reason you don’t make it back, they come looking for you.

Given a lot of people camp away from the main homestead, there’s another book to write in saying how many days you are going to be staying away for, and where you are going. It’s a great system that provides a bit of a safety net should you break down or have any trouble.

Every morning you check in with the staff at the station.

4WDing at Lorella Springs

One of the things that was so attractive to me about Lorella was the 4WD tracks. You could spend months driving around and not see it all; every amazing location is visited by using the myriad of 4WD tracks.

Many of them are gravel or sand and are quite easy, but there are a couple that you need high clearance, a bit of skill and are much more challenging than the rest. The staff will adequately prepare you for the varying conditions.

If you love fishing, Lorella Springs is the place to go! 

Fishing

I have fished at some pretty incredible places around Australia. Lorella Springs blew them all out of the water by a country mile. Never in my life have I seen so many fish going nuts over a basic silver slice.

You can fish fresh water in many of the water holes and creeks, or salt water along the coastline and creeks. We spent half a day out at Rosie’s campground having an absolute ball catching queenfish.

They have a policy where you can take what you are going to eat that day, and throw the rest back. This keeps the fishing sustainable and fun for everyone.

Of course, pay careful attention to what you are told about crocodiles. The salt water ones are extremely dangerous and are found at a few select sites on the property.

You can keep what you intend to eat that day, and throw the rest back. 

Hot springs

If you’ve never experienced the magic of a natural flowing hot spring, Lorella is going to blow you away. Just metres away from the bar and decked area lies the Magic Hot Springs, where you can grab a drink and pool noodle, and float the afternoon away. The water is clean, warm and incredibly relaxing and a lot of people make good use of this.

Throughout the property, there are a couple of other hot springs, including Nudie (it’s just a name – you can leave your clothes on!) which has water bubbling out of the rocks at a very high temperature.

The incredible Nudie Springs at Lorella Station. 

Exploring the water holes and gorges

Through the week of our visit, we saw a huge number of water holes. Most of them left us absolutely speechless. The water is super clear, cold and refreshing.

You can take canoes or boats left at some of the water holes out for a paddle and explore; it truly is spectacular. One or two water holes a day makes for an enjoyable stay.

Being such a big property with decent drives between you see hardly anyone else, which makes things very special.

The Helicopter pool is just one the many water holes to dip in. 

Can you tow trailers in?

A lot of people tow camper trailers, toy haulers, boats and even caravans in. As long as they have some decent clearance, a quality construction and you drive appropriately you won’t have an issue. I would probably not bring an on-road caravan in though.

Bring a portable camping setup

It’s worth having a small camping setup that you can duck away with for a couple of nights due to the size of the property. Leave your main setup and head away for a few nights; it makes exploring much easier and more comfortable with a lot less driving. We met a lot of people who didn’t have this and found it limiting.

To get the most of your stay, have a smaller set up for quick overnighters. 

Firewood and fires

Lorella adopts the best policy I’ve seen regarding campfires. It’s really simple – use common sense. You can take firewood from wherever you want, but the further you go away from the homestead the better.

You can have fires wherever you want too, but again, clean up after yourself, keep it relatively contained and you’ll be just fine.

You can have a nice campfire when staying at Lorella Springs.

When’s the best time to visit?

Lorella Springs is shut during the wet season and re-opens when the track conditions are suitable. This is usually May/June, but it varies from year to year. The earlier in the dry season you go the better it is; temperatures are milder, water levels are much higher and any flowing water is still flowing.

Once the water levels start to drop it becomes stagnant, and a place you’d rather not visit.

Head to the springs early in the dry season to get the best out of your visit.

What does it cost?

A night at Lorella will cost you $20 per person, with kids under 5 free and between 5 – 15 years old $5 per night. There are some discounts for longer stays.

Be 100% self-sufficient

My recommendation is to bring absolutely everything in with you. There’s no shortage of water and their toilet systems around the main camp are great, but you want everything else with you. This includes a good selection of food, lots of fuel and anything you need for remote camping.

You can get Fuel at Cape Crawford, but other than that there isn’t much else around, and with the distances you drive around the station bring as much in as you can. You can purchase more diesel for $3 per litre on the station as required.

The beautiful Lorella spring caters to all campers. 

Relax, explore or have a huge adventure

Whether you want to wind your days away with a drink in your hand floating around a hot spring, see every corner of the property or have a big adventure – Lorella Springs caters for everyone.

In terms of station stays, I can safely say Lorella Springs is the best I’ve been to for adventure. What are you waiting for? See you up there!

Where’s the best station you’ve camped at?

The post Lorella Springs – Australia’s Best Station for Adventure appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Understandably there are still some areas inaccessible to the public due to its cultural significance to the traditional landowners, but there are a couple of secret spots we can let you in on.

So here is a guide to get you on your way to packing your bag, loading the car or booking flights.

Noarlangie Rock at Kakadu National Park. 

When to go

The top end of Australia doesn’t experience the usual four seasons. The wet season comes with the first crack of lighting on a late afternoon in November, and Kakadu goes from burnt orange to luscious green overnight.

When the wet season ramps up, so does the humidity. So a normal 35°C day starts to feel more like 45°C. It’s impossible to keep your shirt dry and there isn’t enough cold water in the world to satisfy your thirst. As beautiful as it is in the wet season, you need to know what you are doing in order to stay safe.

So with that, I suggest this hot tip, travel between May and July. At the start of the dry season, the waterfalls are still cascading heavily, the nights are cooler and the Barramundi are biting.

Walk to the top of Gunlom Falls to look out over the park. 

Getting there

Kakadu National Park is 133km from Darwin and 149km from Katherine. If you are planning on flying, Darwin will be your best and cheapest option, accessible by direct flight from most capital cities.

As the Northern Territory’s capital city you’ll find plenty of options for 4WD/van/motorhome hire and accommodation options before venturing into Kakadu. Darwin is also a great place to stock up on food and fuel. Fuel prices are about 20c/L more expensive in the park.

Remember that you are about travel in to remote Australia. Although there is a good supermarket, medical centre and bank in Jabiru, near the centre of Kakadu NP, options are going to be limited.

The sunset over the Nourlangie rock lookout. 

Choose your ride

It is not all bulldust and backroads like we had come to believe. So we were pleasantly surprised to be driving through the heart of the national park on the smooth surface of the Kakadu Highway. There is a good chunk of Kakadu that you can do in a standard 2WD, but if you want the full, unlimited experience we would definitely recommend a 4WD.

You do not necessarily need to be an experienced four-wheel-driver. You just need a high clearance vehicle that can make a shallow creek crossing or two and won’t rattle into smithereens on the dirt roads. Have you heard of corrugations? You will know all about these incessant bumps in the road as soon as you hit the turnoff to Jim Jim Falls, and they are relentless.

You’ll need a pass to access the wonders inside Kakadu NP. 

Have you got your park pass?

You will need a park pass to access Kakadu National Park. You can buy your pass online, at the Katherine Visitor Centre or the Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru. Pass prices range from $12.50 for children and $25 for adults and last for up to 14 days.

Children under 4 are free and other discounts are available for families and concession card holders. 100% of this money goes right back into the park and supports the traditional landowners and general park upkeep.

Sandy Billabong is our top pick for camping in Kakadu. 

Where to stay

If you can camp, camp. Kakadu offers 26 different campgrounds across the park, which range from fancy caravan parks to basic bush camping. So if you want a pool, hot showers and to treat yourself to dinner out, you can base yourself at the Cooinda Campground and Caravan Park.

But if you are like us and would prefer to light up a fire in a quiet corner of the park our top pick would be Sandy Billabong (it must be the sandy track and long drop toilets that deter a few people from getting in here). All of the big hitters like Gunlom, Jim Jim Falls and Maguk have a campground nearby so that you can really make the most of these special places. Camping fees depend on the facilities available and you will find some of the more remote sites are free of charge.

If you were not planning on camping at all, fear not, you have 7 hotels/lodges/resorts with varying degrees of luxury to choose from.

A campfire dinner at our campsite at Sandy Billabong. 

What to bring

An alarm clock. There is a reason this place gets busy, so if you want to beat the crowds and enjoy some time to yourself at the top of Jim Jim Falls, set your alarm. Getting up early is also the best way to beat the heat. Speaking of heat, here are some things you will need to have with you in order to prevent heat exposure.

• Water, minimum 1L per hour of activity, or 4L per day
• Lightweight, long sleeved shirts
• Sunscreen
• Broad brimmed hat
• Sunglasses
• Respect for the wild

You’ll need sun basics such as hats and a daypack for exploring the park. 

Some other things you will also need to include;

• Mosquito repellent
• Hiking boots
• Backpack for day trips which must always contain water, snacks and a basic first aid kit
• Camera
• Swimmers
• Towel
• Park pass
• National Park map

With so many opportunities to enjoy the water, swimmers and a towel are a must. 

Our top 5

1. Maguk

Mother Nature did some amazing work on this playground. Blue water, glowing orange rocks and waterfalls that lead into more waterfalls. Read a bit more about it below in Secret Spots.

2. Jim Jim Falls

This one is a tour bus favourite so timing is everything. The earlier the better, or you might get lucky around 3 pm when they start loading their customers back on the bus. After making the rock scramble to the first beach on the right-hand side, we would suggest holding your backpack above your head and swimming around to the second beach to find a bit of space that is all yours. Once again, check out Secret Spots for a hidden gem close by.

Swimming through the pristine waters of Maguk.

3. Ubirr

If you are looking for an education on Australian Aboriginal history this is the place. Once a great meeting place and educational hub, the area is covered in densely intricate rock art that dates back 3000 years and tells a vivid story of life in the area. There is a Ranger-guided walk through the site that really gives you an understanding of the Aboriginal culture that is alive in Kakadu.

Ubirr is also an amazing place to watch the sunset, with floodplains on one side and stone country on the other. Give it time and watch the colours change over the landscape and the shadows lengthen across stony escarpments.

4. Yellow Water River Cruise

Ever thought of feeding your kids to the crocs? this would be the place… don’t though. The crocodiles here are brazen and about as big and bold as Kakadu itself. It is not only crocodiles you’ll see, but Asian Buffalo and wild horses on the banks.

There are plenty of Barramundi and Saratoga if you are going to wet a line. And the most beautiful water lilies stand proudly along the edges of Yellow Water.

A saltie we spotted on the Yellow Water Cruise. 

5. Twin Falls

An immense waterfall that is open for a limited time each year due to high waters and a shuttle boat crossing. It would be worth looking into a helicopter flight in order to see this beauty in full flow if you can’t gain access

Secret Spots

There are a couple of places that just don’t get much hype. Or they get a lot of hype but some crucial information is missing, for example, Barrk Marlam.

Barrk Marlam

You have heard of Jim Jim Falls (I’ve definitely mentioned it a few times), but have you heard of Barrk Marlam? Well, it is one of our absolute highlights and not well marked. From the car park at Jim Jim Falls you follow the path to the falls for about 200m before turning off (there is a small sign) to the right across the creek.

The hike requires you to follow the pink ribbons hung in the trees to guide you to the top of Jim Jim Falls. Now it says that this hike is 6km return, but it is so intense it feels like twice that distance. At the top, you will be rewarded with spectacular views and private swimming holes.

Barrk Marlam is a challenging bushwalk, but well worth the hike. 

Maguk’s infinity pool

Maguk’s infinity pool, we would not have noticed this sneaky spot if it wasn’t for a tiny little head that poked over the falls when we were swimming in the main gorge. To get to Maguk’s infinity pool you will need to stay on the left-hand side of the creek when the arrows tell you to cross. Look straight ahead and you’ll see the making of a well-worn path, follow it.

This walk is quite a bit easier than Barrk Marlam and just as rewarding. Be sure to take some goggles to see this gorge below the surface. If you are brave you probably won’t hesitate to swim through one of the underwater rock tunnels.

Motor Car Falls

Motor Car Falls is accessed via part of the Yirmikmik trails. 3.75km of fairly level ground will take you from a dry and dusty service road into a tropical oasis. Drape yourself over a giant boulder with sun rays pouring between prehistoric-looking trees, and then float on cool waters beneath zebra printed rocks. You are almost guaranteed to get this place to yourself any time of day.

The infinity pool at Maguk is not to be missed. 

The Rockhole (Moline)

Lastly, a secret local’s hotspot, The Rockhole (Moline). Not marked on the map or signposted from the road, this one has been saved for some small tour group exclusivity. Time to put it on the map. As you are heading south down the Kakadu Highway and coming down the range, at the bottom of the hill is a right-hand turn off with what looks like a green postbox on the corner.

The road in is rocky and can be narrow in sections, with only a small turning area at the end (take care if towing). Just 200m from the carpark is a pool with natural rocky seats along its sides, a waterfall that cascades down a narrow gorge and into the water, where curious turtles pop up to check you out.

The Rockhole Moline is a spot loved by the locals.

Croc safety

The Top End is alive with crocodiles, both saltwater and freshwater. Although you can often safely swim in the same pool as a “freshie”, “salties” will not allow that same kind of luxury.

We’ve done our fair share of travel along the top end of Australia and shared the water with some big crocs on fishing trips, but we have never met crocs like the ones in Kakadu. Kakadu is the first place we have had a crocodile come in direct pursuit of our boat. These guys are no joke. Obey signs and check with Rangers on where it is safe to swim. The changing water levels in Kakadu mean that crocs can get in anywhere.

When picking a camp spot, stay at least 50m from the water’s edge and always leave at least 5m between you and the water when walking or fishing. Respect these prehistoric beasts, there’s a reason they have been around longer than us.

Make sure you obey signs of where you can swim. 

That’s all from us

We hope that this has given you enough information to confidently book your flight, hire a car or drive straight in there on part of your Australia trip.

Be sure to check in at the Warradjan Cultural Centre or any of the visitor’s centres to pick up your park maps and activity timetables.

You’ll find lots of hikes, Ranger-guided activities, and birdwatching, and enough places to fish to keep you fed. It’s a Kaka-DO from us!

What have your trips to the top end been like? 

The post Guide to Visiting Kakadu in the Northern Territory appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Geologically, we know that after the inland sea receded the sandstone sediments left behind formed the basis of the country we now see. Iron pigments were then pushed to the surface which formed the hard red caps on the exposed layers.

Chambers Pillar is a classic example of this. The soft unprotected layers around the pillar have been eroded away, which leaves this spectacular monolith sitting high above the surrounding country.

For tourers that are not averse to travelling on the dirt, this formation should definitely be on your bucket list. For more on our experience visiting Chambers Pillar, then keep on reading.

Here they are in all their glory – Chambers Pillar and Castle Rock in the NT. 

Getting there

Getting to Chambers Pillar is pretty straightforward in planning, but full of surprises in the execution. From the north, the Finke Track can be followed from Alice Springs. From the west, there’s the Hugh River Stock Route and from the south, the Finke Track again, either coming in from Mt Dare or Kulgera. These all lead to Maryvale Homestead and the small store providing fuel and some basics. All these tracks present changing conditions and can be rough and corrugated so be aware of that when driving.

Nearby, the aboriginal community of Titjikala also has some supplies. There’s also a great art gallery showcasing and selling paintings and sculptures created by local artists.

You will encounter some long and deep bulldust holes on the drive. 

Conditions of the drive

The last 42 km from Maryvale to the Pillar Campground provides an interesting drive. There are corrugations a plenty, deep and sometimes long bulldust holes, and hard rocky sections on top of rises all leading through a constantly changing vista. Not far from the end of the track you’re then suddenly presented with a steep, rough rocky rise to the top of the Charlotte Range.

It’s not that difficult, but it’s enough that with the conditions and the hard left turn near the top 4×4 low range should be used, particularly if you’re towing. The descent on the other side is a similar experience. From there you can cross a number of sand dunes (which should be treated with care). They’re capped but the track can be narrow, with sudden crests and a few blind bends on the top of rises.

You will then arrive at the Historical Reserve. Then all you need to do is pick your campsite and you can take in the total experience of being immersed in the colours of the Pillar, the sky above and the quiet atmosphere.

Once you get to the historical reserve, all you have to do is pick out where you want to camp. 

Camping in the area

There are now two camping areas near the Pillar. The new one is called the Bush Campground, which has been set up to cater for off-road campers. Currently, toilets are the only facility provided, so be aware of that. The other is Chambers Pillar Campground which has picnic facilities, toilets, parking, and a gas BBQ available.

At the time that we visited, a new interpretive shelter was being built to provide visitors with on-the-spot information.

You can also do a walk around Castle Rock when you’re in the area. 

The walk around the pillar

The colours and aura of the Pillar are really highlighted as the sun creeps on or off the rock. The National Parks have recognised this in the way that they have set up the walk around the Pillar. Leaving from the original Pillar Campground, it crosses a sand dune before descending into the swale where the Pillar stands.

On top of the dune, there’s a seat and a cleared area for experiencing the sunrise in all its glory. You can also look back and see the colour coming alive on Castle Rock and the surrounding plains. An easy descent and stroll will take you around the base of the column. There you’ll find a set of steps and walkways provided to climb to the bottom of the actual Pillar.

You can catch a glimpse of the walkway stairs around the base of the pillar. 

There are also a number of historical engravings carved into the soft rock. These include the initials of men such as John Ross, who was the leader of an exploration party for the Overland Telegraph Route in 1870.

John McDouall Stuart also passed here in 1860 but opted not to carve his passing into the rock. After descending the steps the track passes to the north where again seating is provided. This is so you can view the sunset before making your way back to camp.

There is also a lesser known walk that scoots out into the desert around Castle Rock which you might find interesting as well.

I highly recommend visiting at sunrise or sunset. 

Sunset at Chambers Pillar

It’s a mystical experience to sit on the desert floor and listen to the whisper of the wind through the bushes and grasses while watching the full suite of colour changes across the rock at sunrise and sunset.

Sunset is probably my favourite as after the enthralling light show, you move back below the Pillar in the darkness. It’s just a wonderful feeling.

Even if you don’t have a camera you’ll still take with you an album of wonderful pictures in your mind. If you haven’t been to Chambers Pillar, make sure you pass by on your next trip to the Northern Territory.

Chambers Pillar is on the bucket list of many outback travellers, but is it on yours?

The post A Trip to Chambers Pillar in the Northern Territory appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Although only a touch over 200km, this section of road needs to be approached with care and patience.

Kings Canyon is such an iconic destination to visit in Australia. 

Starting the trip

The first 50km of the drive from the Redbank turnoff to the western junction of Larapinta Drive and Namitjara Drive is an easy expedition with bitumen all the way. The highlight of this section is Tylers Pass Lookout – roughly halfway to the intersection. From here there are spectacular views of Tnorala (Gosses Bluff), a crater from the impact of a comet some 140 million years ago.

After 15km of winding road from the lookout, there is a turn off to the right that leads into Tnorala. This track is definitely a 4WD track and leads into the crater. The crater is a very significant place to the Western Arrarnta people.

Following the track through the domes. 

Arriving at the Western Junction of the Red Centre Way

Back out on the main road you soon arrive at the western junction of the Red Centre Way. Turning to the left leads you towards Hermansberg and eventually Alice Springs, but, we turned right to follow the road formerly known as the Mereenie Loop.

This unsealed section of road is a regular discussion topic with travellers wanting to do the circuit from Alice to Kings Canyon and Uluru. It does live up to its reputation of being heavily corrugated with some deep sandy corners and some crazy drivers, both Australian and international.

We dropped our tyre pressures and then took our time driving through the varying conditions. The road passes through sandhill country and then hard, rocky ground through the actual Mereenie Valley. Then there are some tight corners and highly varied conditions which depend on the traffic and the last time the grader has been through.

Eventually, you arrive at Ginty’s Lookout, now a free camping area with views towards Kings Canyon. The road is bituminised off of the “jump up” before reverting to dirt again. Some 40km later you arrive at the King’s Canyon Resort, one of four accommodation options in Watarrka National Park.

The view of the sandstone domes in the area.

Watarrka National Park

Watarrka National Park is a significant conservation area with gorges and waterholes providing home for a wide range of animals, birds, reptiles and an amazing array of plants. The centrepiece of the park is the amazing Kings Canyon, a spectacular slash in the ancient red sandstone range.

The Canyon can be experienced from the air, particularly helicopter, but to truly get the feel, the colours and sheer size of it, you need to get out there and walk.

An early morning view looking up into the canyon from the top of Heartbreak Hill. 

The Rim Walk

There are a number of walks but the big one, other than a 2-day walk to Kathleen Springs, is the Rim Walk. 6km in length, it will probably take you between 3 to 4 hours to complete, mainly because you’ll want time to take the scenery in.

Physically the hardest part of the Rim Walk is the steep climb to the top of the range, right at the
beginning up the spur, sometimes called Heartbreak Hill.

This is a stepped rise from the valley floor with a number of places to stop, catch your breath and take in the amazing views that are being revealed, particularly south across the flat desert plain.

The weathered sandstone domes look almost like mini versions of the Bungle Bungles. 

The track then wanders through an amazing collection of weathered sandstone domes, that look like mini Bungle Bungles. The colours surround you with shades of red, black and cream being predominant. At times the path leads through narrow passages, or more commonly, open sections covered in clumps of spinifex and other tough native plants and the odd cycad palm.

There are a number of lookouts along this section with views of the huge south wall that are just breathtaking.

Cotterill’s Lookout on the Rim Walk is not to be missed. 

Detouring to Cotterill’s Lookout

About 2.5km along, there is a track junction where you can detour out to Cotterill’s Lookout. You cross a bridge across a narrow yet deep cleft in the ground to get access to the Lookout on top of a dome. From there you can get more views of the south wall and down into the canyon.

Returning to the main track you eventually descend to a bridge across the creek via a series of staircases.

The ‘Garden of Eden’

Take the time here to follow the path and bridges down the creek to the ‘Garden of Eden’. This is a cool, shady sanctuary after the exposed walk through the lost world of domes. Here there are birds, insects and pools of water that are beautiful and also understandably sacred to the local indigenous people. Across the last pool, there is a gap where the water pours over the edge into the canyon below.

The Garden of Eden has a few serene spots like this one tucked away. 

Where to stop for a break

When you return to the bridge on the main track there are further stairs leading up to an area favoured by many to stop and have a bite to eat and a drink. There is also one of the three emergency call boxes here that enable contact with the rangers if necessary.

The others are located at the top of Heartbreak Hill and halfway across the return path on the southern side of the canyon. Shortly after, there is a bridge and a one-way gate that you pass across Kings Creek to the southern side.

Arriving on a big flat platform there is another lookout, this time viewing the overhanging cliffs on the north side of the canyon. The small figures of other walkers at the northern side lookouts give perspective to the size of these looming red cliff faces. Breathtaking is probably an understatement.

The stairs on the southern side that descend into the Garden of Eden.

Kestrel Lookout

You are now well and truly on the way back. The track continues to wind its way across and through the sandstone domes right away from the canyon. You then arrive at Kestrel Lookout overlooking a large waterfall and rock formation. White stains dot the cliff faces below the nesting sites of Australian kestrels that call this area home.

A bit further along, as you start your descent off the range, another lookout gives you views of the Ranger Station, carpark and the flat expanse of desert country that abuts the George Gill Range.

Back in the carpark, if you haven’t already done it you can resupply and follow the track back in along the floor of the canyon to another lookout. This time you can view those huge cliffs from below.

You can see other people on the northern side of the platform. 

The walking track at Kathleen Springs

Kathleen Springs is about 20 km from Kings Canyon and has a great walking track that is wheelchair accessible for the whole of its 2.6km length. The walk passes old stockyards and other relics of the area’s pastoral history and arrives at a spring-fed waterhole.

As with all significant water supplies in this landscape, the area has special cultural significance to the local indigenous people. Some of their stories and those of the early pastoralists are told along the track with informative signboards.

The track across the plateau on the southern side. 

Things to consider when visiting

Watarrka is a special place with fabulous walks and equally fabulous views from afar at sunset viewing areas. The weather must be considered when doing the walks here as dehydration can be an issue. The parks, in fact, have policies in place about the times you can walk when the temperatures are high.

They stress the fact that there is no drinking water available when you tackle the Rim Walk. Walkers should prepare themselves with good footwear, hat, sunscreen, plenty of water, snacks and a sense of wonder.

A view looking back upstream from the bridge into the garden. 

Access for vehicles

The Park and its accommodation alternatives can all be accessed by 2WD vehicles from Erldunda on the Stuart Highway on good bitumen roads. Meanwhile, 4WDs can access it a number of ways, including the Red Centre Way. April to September are prime times to go as the weather is kinder.

If you want to experience the majesty and beauty of the Red Centre then Watarrka and Kings Canyon should definitely be on your list.

Is Kings Canyon on your bucket list when it comes to exploring Australia? 

The post Visiting Kings Canyon – A Red Centre Delight appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Why do I confess this here? Well, the West MacDonnell National Park is the most visited attraction in Central Australia after Uluru and Kings Canyon. Don’t get me wrong, I still loved our time there. A major plus for many is, it is so easily accessible from Alice Springs on sealed roads, so for the time poor, could be driven in a day out and back.

However, it is the raw beauty of the place, the varied gorges and wildlife that guarantees the interest of visitors. Even the mystique of the names of the two bitumen roads, Larapinta Drive and Namatjira Drive, draws the visitor in.

Ormiston Gorge is a must visit when passing through the West Macs.

The first stop – Simpsons Gap

The first stop driving west from Alice Springs is Simpsons Gap. There are a number of short walks in the area and picnic facilities. For keen cyclists, you can hire and ride there from Alice Springs on a cycle path. Among the attractions is the possibility of seeing some of the resident Black-Footed Rock Wallaby colony.

Standley Chasm

Further along Larapinta Drive is the turnoff to Standley Chasm. This is actually a private fauna and flora reserve owned by the Iwupataka Lands Trust and a special place for Western Arrernte women. For many visitors, the entry fee, used to maintain the facilities, allows them to visit the chasm when the sun is right overhead. At this time the walls light up in a brilliant orange-red colour.

Interpretive signs along the pathway encourage you to slow down and contemplate the land and its significance. For those with time, a short return trip on part of the Larapinta Trail will show another rarely glimpsed view of the chasm and its surrounds. Camping is also available for a small fee.

Our gear all set up at Ridgetop Redbank.

Stopping for the night at the Hugh River Bush Camping Area

Being self-sufficient, we drove along Namatjira Drive for a short distance to the Hugh River Bush Camping Area. There we spent a beautiful clear night on the banks of the river.

The track in goes for a long way following the creek but it is only suitable for caravans and campers for about 5kms. The next morning we headed back onto the main road.

One of the perfect day spots is spending time at Ellery Creek Big Hole.

The Ellery Creek Big Hole

Ellery Creek Big Hole is a day destination for Alice Springs folk to swim and BBQ – a favourite with visitors. The waterhole is situated at the end of a paved track, providing a wonderful view of the soaring cliffs. Here you can potter around or take the marked Dolomite Trail which is a 3km walk.

You need to be really careful when swimming here, as in the rest of the Ranges, the water, particularly in winter, is freezing cold. You need to take care when entering the water. Don’t dive in, as there can be rocks and submerged tree limbs in the water, which can be dangerous.

For the Arrernte, all of these gaps have important Dreaming stories. Honey Ant Dreaming is the main one here, and Fish Dreaming also travels through the rock hole. There are plenty of facilities provided for the traveller and a small open camping area is available at a small cost.

Serpentine Gorge is a good choice if you don’t like crowds.

Serpentine Gorge

We had heard that Serpentine Gorge was not only special but also largely ignored by many of the hordes of visitors focused on Ellery Creek Big Hole or Ormiston Gorge. The road in is corrugated dirt and there are only a few picnic facilities and toilets provided.

The walk into the Gorge is an easy stroll along the creek to a small quiet waterhole squeezed between the walls of a small gap in the range. This water has special cultural and environmental significance and shouldn’t be paddled or swum in.

The Centralian Flannel Flower and the MacDonnell Range Cycad are rare species found here. Carpet Snake Dreaming and Eaglehawk Dreaming travel through the area. An absolute bonus here is to follow the trail to the east of the gorge that makes a steep sharp climb through the geology of the range to a fantastic lookout, giving you great views of the surrounding area.

Nearby is a free camping area at the site of the first tourism venture in the West Macs – The Serpentine Chalet Bush Camping Area.

As you can see, Ormiston Gorge is pretty popular with travellers and caravanners.

Ormiston Gorge

Back on the popular track, Ormiston Gorge is the next calling point. This is a very well serviced and popular spot for its swimming hole, its walks and the sheer beauty of the surrounds. Culturally, with its permanent waterhole, the area is very important and the Dreaming story here involves emus and a hunter.

There is a ranger station here. During the winter months, the rangers will conduct various guided walks and talks. As the road in is bitumen, the camping area is very popular with caravanners. If you’re just visiting during the day, there are picnic areas and BBQs, as well as toilet facilities and the visitor centre offers food, drink, coffee and souvenirs.

Ormiston Gorge is not only a popular spot, it also has a lot of cultural significance.

The Ghost Gum Lookout

Besides the short walk to the waterhole, there are two others that you should consider. The Ghost Gum Lookout walk leads up the side of a hill starting close by the kiosk. This works itself around the hill face to a large platform overlooking the Gorge and the main waterhole. The views are spectacular and worth the effort to climb up.

You can simply reverse your route to return to your vehicle. Or you can carry on following the track that slowly descends to the Gorge floor further in.

The Ghost Gum Lookout overlooks the Gorge.

The Ormiston Pound Walk

A longer walk is the Ormiston Pound Walk which takes about 3 to 4 hours. This wanders into a huge amphitheatre area before returning along the creek through the Gorge. It is an excellent day walk that will provide you with great views and a real feel for the terrain.

Up until this point, all the places we had visited had been north of Namatjira Drive. Glen Helen Gorge and the nearby resort are on the southern side. Here the Finke River breaks through the Ranges on its way to the western edge of the Simpson Desert and Lake Eyre. It’s then a short walk down to the Gorge and waterhole, which provides a haven for all the species of fish found in the Finke.

The Kings Canyon Resort is the only accommodation that you can find in the West Macs other than camping. It’s also a source of fuel and where you buy the permit required to drive the Red Centre Way, formerly called the Mereenie Loop.

Walking on the way to the lookout. 

Redbank Gorge

The final gorge on this trail is Redbank Gorge. It provided us with a fabulous camping spot perched on a ridge top with views of Mount Sonder and the hills beyond. The road into the area is corrugated dirt and it passes two camping areas. Is it any wonder that the Dreaming story here involves the Euro, a type of hill kangaroo?

The first and largest is called Woodland Camp and it has plenty shade, toilets and free BBQ, while the smaller one is called Ridgetop Camp and it doesn’t have BBQ’s provided. It was here that we decided to spend the night. The road passes Ridgetop Camp and drops steeply down into a small valley. It then wanders over to the small parking area at the start of the walk into the gorge, or for those who want to tackle either Mount Sonder or the Larapinta Trail from the western direction.

The walk into this gorge is unmarked and will vary from really rocky through to soft sand. Take your time and you will enjoy the walk in. We didn’t swim here but if you have a flotation device, the swim through the narrow gorge is supposed to be a great experience, albeit often very cold.

A glimpse of the sunset from Ridgetop camp.

The rugged landscape, wildlife, and cultural importance of the West MacDonnell Ranges will reward anyone travelling to this region with a very special experience. It’s definitely a place that you need to see for yourself.

Are the West Macs on your bucket list for places to visit in Australia? 

The post Exploring the West MacDonnell Ranges appeared first on Snowys Blog.

We were on the Frew River 4wd track, which is only around 17 km’s long, but took us almost 2 hours to complete. Not a particularly hard track, just very rocky requiring a ‘take it easy’ approach. We were a long way from help if anything went wrong. The real attraction of this track, however, was the wonderful scenery.

Beginning at Timber Creek in the Northern Territory

A week earlier we were sitting in the Land Rover, not far from Timber Creek in the Northern Territory, parked on the side of the road, looking at the signs that said the tracks ahead were open. 2180 kilometres, that’s how far we had to travel to the other end of the Binns Track. That’s a long way.

My wife Linda and I had just come up from our home in Adelaide, to return along the Binns Track and meet our son and his family, as well as some other friends, at Dalhousie Springs. We were then going to cross the Simpson Desert, before heading back home.

Our starting point at the beginning of the Binns Track. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Gregory National Park

The first part took us into Gregory National Park. The track was in reasonable condition along this section and a short way along we turned off into Limestone gorge.

Here the road narrows and gets harder as you make your way into the gorge. Part of the way in there is a short walk up to a viewing platform where there are fossilised remains of stromatolites.

These ancient fossils were once layered mounds of a single-celled microbe formed around 3.5 billion years ago. They lived in the sea and had an important role of contributing oxygen to the atmosphere. It is interesting to think, that the existence of these fossils, means that the hills we were standing on, were once under the sea.

The track then follows a rocky creek bed with the Land Rover having to roll over some big stones. Ultimately it finishes at a campsite, where we had a short break. Then it was back to the creek bed and out to the main track.

We stopped by the historic Bullita Homestead. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Bullita Homestead

The historic Bullita homestead and stockyards is a remnant of the past. It’s situated on the banks of the East Baines river – a nice spot to have lunch and a wander about.

The homestead is empty, with information boards inside that gives the reader an idea as to what it was like to live and work here. We camped at the campsite nearby under some shady trees along with several other campers.

A historic name. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Starting on the Humbert Track

The next day we started on the Humbert Track. This track is not recommended for caravans or trailers. It is a narrow and winding track with rocks and sand as well as having some very short, sharp dips and floodways that would have almost any trailer dragging its back end causing the wheels to lift off the ground.

We had heard the Humbert River crossing was going to be difficult, but we crossed it easily, as the sides were not that steep, and there was hardly any water in it.

After about 69kms, which took us most of the day, the road started to improve as we came to the end of the track, and drove out of the Gregory National Park.

We weren’t sure what this bull was going to do. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Making our way to Top Springs Road House

Here we joined the Buchanan Highway and made our way to Top Springs Road House, where we stopped for the night. We were greeted by the friendly staff who showed us a grassy campsite for our tent. After a shower and a meal in the pub, we were off to bed.

Continuing along the Buchanan Highway, the Binns track eventually joined the Stuart Highway, then onto Tennant Creek. We camped overnight at Kunjarra, also called the Pebbles, just north of Tennant Creek, with dozens of Grey Nomads. We arrived late afternoon and was lucky to find a spot. Imagine a smaller version of the Devils Marbles, and you have the Pebbles.

This riverbed was the road. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Tennant Creek

The following day we went into Tennant Creek to refuel and do some grocery shopping, then continued further south until the turnoff to the Davenport Ranges.

Dropping tyre pressure, we made our way into these rugged and beautiful ranges. The track here was at times very corrugated and rocky and crossed lots of small creek beds which were almost all dry. We bypassed Whistle Duck Creek and by mid-afternoon, we were at Old Police Station Waterhole.

We dropped the tyre pressure before continuing on. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Camping at Old Police Station Waterhole

A very pretty spot with a large billabong, and shady trees to camp under. There were only two other campers here, so we had a quiet afternoon, relaxing and catching up on some reading. Across the billabong is the remains of the police station that was here from about 1920. Originally it was to investigate cattle rustling in the area, but ultimately it was abandoned.

It was a peaceful night, except for around midnight, when some wild donkeys started braying to each other in the distance. They started to get closer and closer until they walked past, within a few metres of our tent. They certainly can make some noise.

The view at the Old Police Station Waterhole. Photo: Kevin Leslie

The Frew River 4WD track

The next morning, we were up around dawn to pack up and head off along the Frew River 4wd track. This cuts about 20Km of the Binns Track and goes through some very pretty country. It’s a challenge though with some steep climbs up some loose surfaces.

The early morning sun gave a pleasant glow to the surrounding mountains, the spinifex, which was going to seed, gently swayed with the cool morning breeze looking like silvery wheat.

For me, this was the best part of the track. Recent rains had made such a difference to this country, and we were lucky enough to see it after a good wet season.

While parts of the track still had corrugations, there were also some good sections which allowed us to scoot along at around 60 to 70 kph. Some parts were recently graded, and 80 to 90 kph was achievable. This was rare though, and even though the track was good in parts, we kept our speed down for safety.

The Frew River Road 4WD track has some beautiful scenery. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Stopping for the night at Tower Rock

We stopped for the night after a long day’s drive at Tower Rock. A bit hard to find coming from the northern end, but a pleasant enough spot for an overnight stay.

The facilities there are non-existent, however, there is a loo which consists of a drum over a hole with a toilet seat on it, and no walls at all. There were just four stakes in the ground where there must have been some sort of roof. Talk about a loo with a view!

At Tower Rock, we were treated to a loo with a view. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Gemtree and the Arltunga Historical Reserve

The next morning, we finally made the bitumen near Gemtree – bliss! Devonshire tea for us and diesel for the Landy, and then along the Arltunga Tourist Route toward the Cavenagh Ranges.

We lunched in the carpark of the information centre for the Arltunga Historical Reserve, where gold was discovered in about 1887. A town sprung up as prospectors rushed in. It kept going until about 1916 and is now a ghost town. Some restoration work has been carried out though with several buildings restored.

Homestead stay at the Ross River Resort

From here it was a short drive to our destination for the night at the Ross River Resort. The Homestead at the resort is thought to have been built around 1898, by the then foreman of the Arltunga gold mining town. It is now a tourist destination offering cabins and camping as well as a dining area and bar in the original building.

We decided on a cabin for the night, as we wanted a rest from the tent. A shower and a relaxing afternoon, followed by a meal in the homestead and a few drinks, had us ready for bed.

We stayed in a cabin for the night at the Ross River Resort. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Following the 4WD track to N’Dahla Gorge

We were up early following the 4wd track towards N’Dahla gorge. This section of the track crosses the Ross River several times and is impassable after heavy rain. The first crossing had water but the other crossings were soft dry sand.

Once we got to N’Dahla gorge we cooked up the last of our bacon and eggs for breakfast, then walked into the gorge to see the petroglyphs (rock carvings), which are possibly around 2000 years old. Some may be as old as 10,000 years. We were still following the Binns Track, as we made our way into Alice Springs.

The ancient rock carvings we saw – some were as old as 10,000 years. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Stopping over in Alice Springs

We had a few day’s break in Alice Springs where we restocked on fuel and supplies, before travelling on to Mt Dare in South Australia. This meant that we were now on the last section of the Binns Track as it headed out past Santa Teresa.

We travelled through some more fantastic country passing through several low mountain ranges.

We stopped over in Alice for fresh supplies before tackling the last part of the track. Photo: Kevin Leslie

 The Old Andado Homestead

Before long the sand ridges of the Simpson Desert started to appear. The track didn’t cross them but weaved its way around as we headed in a parallel direction to them. It was late afternoon when we arrived at Old Andado Homestead.

This was home to Molly Clark and her husband Mac, who lived on Andado Station from 1949. After a new homestead was built 18 km’s west of the old homestead the old place was abandoned and started to fall into ruin. Eventually, they owned the property outright in 1969, but, in 1978 both Mac and their eldest son Graham died in separate instances, and the property was ultimately sold in 1984.

Although it was part of the original station, Molly secured a crown lease over 45 square kilometres of land around the old homestead naming it Old Andado. She lived there for many years by herself until her family convinced her to move to Alice Springs where she passed away in 2012.

We stopped by the Old Andado Station at the end of our trip. Photo: Kevin Leslie

A step back in time

Stepping into the homestead felt like you stepped into the past. Family photos still sit on the mantles and side tables, plates and bowls in the cupboards, books on the shelves, rugs on the floor. One cannot wonder if she hoped to return one day.

Old Andado is now looked after by volunteers who stay at the property maintaining the buildings and surrounding grounds. It gives the visitor a great insight into how people lived in this very remote part of Australia. We camped the night here for a small fee, which goes into the upkeep of the place.

We could see that the end was near when we saw the sign for Witjira National Park. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Our last day on the Binns track

The next morning, we headed off on our very last day on the Binns track. This last section went through a mixture of gibber plains, claypans, open forests and sand dunes. The dunes did not cause concern, as we were still mostly travelling parallel to them. Those that we had to cross, were clay topped so were no problem.

This stretch had some very long sections of bulldust with some deep ruts. The dust was spewing out from under the wheels like water as we rolled from one deep rut to another making it difficult to keep the Land Rover in a straight line.

The last day had some rough road ahead. Photo: Kevin Leslie

Arriving back in SA

We knew we were close to the finish when we crossed into Witjira National Park. It also meant we were back in South Australia. We were now less than 20km’s from Mt Dare. The track improved slightly from here and before long we arrived at Mt Dare.

We had done it and we congratulated ourselves on completing the Binns track from top to bottom.

The finishing point of our trip – the end of the Binns track. Photo: Kevin Leslie

What you can expect

As I said at the beginning of this journey, 2180 km’s is a long way. The Binns Track was named after Bill Binns who worked for NT Parks for 32 years. It consists of not only one road, but a combination of several roads and tracks.

On it you will encounter corrugations, rocks, and bulldust, there will be creek crossings, some harder than others. Other sections are smooth and easy to travel on.

Sometimes the scenery is a little mundane, but it’s always interesting, and the ranges we went through were spectacular. The Defender gave us no problems at all, it performed flawlessly covering at times some very difficult sections of track, even though it weighed more than 2.5 tonnes with all our gear.

We’re so lucky to have a beautiful country like Australia to live in, and a great way to see part of it is to travel the Binns Track.

Have you experienced the Binns track? If so, what was the best part of your experience? 

The post The Binns Track from Top to Bottom appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Here are all the details of our journey – including where we camped, the sights we saw, the day walks we did, and how we made the most out of our trip.

Trephina Gorge is one of the many sights to see along the way. Photo: Bob West.

Beginning our journey

Our time limits had been changed. We needed to get back to Quorn in the Flinders Ranges sooner than we thought. As we sat in Mt Isa looking at the map we could see there were three ways we could do this. The first one, and least attractive for us was to follow the bitumen east to Threeways in the Northern Territory and then turn south on the Stuart Highway following the bitumen all the way home! Not an option.

The remaining two were of real interest to us. Our choice was the Sandover or the Plenty Highway. They both appealed greatly as they were remote dirt roads across the Barkly Tableland region. Eventually, we settled on the Plenty as towards the southern end of it we could readily divert onto Gardens Road and then the Ross Highway doing a circuit of the East MacDonnell Ranges before arriving in Alice Springs.

With a stretch of road ahead of us, we decided on the scenic route to Alice. Photo: Bob West.

Leaving Mt Isa

We left Mt Isa on the single lane bitumen Diamantina Development Road, heading south towards Boulia. Along the way, we turned southwesterly on a gravel road to Urandangi and then Tobermorey Station, on the Plenty Highway. When we left the bitumen we dropped the tyre pressure on the car and the camper and readily soaked up the odd rough patch of road and of course, the usual corrugations.

Packed up and on the road to Tobermorey. Photo Bob West.

Arriving at Tobermorey

We arrived at Tobermorey at lunchtime so decided not to stay the night despite the inviting green patch the owners had created as a camping area. Fortunately, we were carrying extra fuel as the station could only sell us 30 litres. The week before there had been 40 mm of rain through the area and the road had been closed to all traffic. Cars were now allowed through but it was still closed to trucks, so fuel supplies were starting to run down.

Our vehicle before we set off down the Plenty Highway. Photo: Bob West.

On the Plenty Highway

Out on the Plenty and it was obvious that bulldust wasn’t going to be an issue for us this time. These patches were now muddy holes which were mostly skirted around or straddled. Choosing your path ahead became an enjoyable challenge in itself. The country was flat and full of scrub with the occasional hill or creek to break things up.  Eventually, after a long but enjoyable drive, we found a spot on a rise to pull over for the night. We shared this with a zillion stars and the quiet of the outback night.

The following day gave us more of the same conditions, including a variety of termite mounds. A couple that stood out included one that had a tyre placed over it. The termites had continued to build unimpeded by this. The other was massive, being at a guess between 5 to 6 metres tall.

One of the termite hills we saw along the way. Photo: Bob West.

Jervois Station

Mid-morning we arrived at Jervois Station. Here you can obtain fuel and also camp. Camping options here are either the commercial area provided by the station or the Marshall River Rest Area by the road. The facilities you require will make the decision for you as the Rest Area is only for the fully self-sufficient.

West of Jervois there had been roadworks happening and the rain had made some of the areas a real mess. Usually, there was a simple bypass to get around waterlogged, muddy holes which required care and higher attention whilst driving. At one point though, the bog was so large a rough new track headed off into the scrub to get around this obstacle. It was easy to see why the road was still closed to trucks. The further west we went the more advanced the roadworks got and eventually we were driving on a very solid stable hard-packed road.

Low hills had appeared on our route as well as intriguing closing views of the Harts Range. We camped the night in the scrub on the edge of a popular fossicking area. The road by then had become bitumen.

We could see the Harts Range in the distance. Photo: Bob West.

Stopping in Gemtree

The next morning we quickly drove into Gemtree to top up on fuel and get some information. Numerous caravans and campers were in the camping area and people were heading off on guided or self-driven fossicking activities. A busy area after the quiet and solitude we had experienced for the last two days.

Alatyeye road/The Binns Track

We then turned back east for 8km and took the dirt road south. This is the Alatyeye road that is, in fact, part of the Binns Track. This was a rough and corrugated road that in contrast to the open of the Plenty Highway was a narrow and winding track through the rough hills south to the Gardens Road. The Gardens Road east of this intersection is another part of the Binns Track mosaic. Basically, it’s a good gravel road so was easy driving.

Taking a little detour. Photo: Bob West. 

Hale River Homestead

Just before turning south to join the Ross Highway we stopped to explore the offerings of the Hale River Homestead. This was an unknown but very pleasant surprise for us. It’s a family run enterprise with the husband continuing to run cattle while wife, Lynn has developed a wide range of accommodation facilities for the traveller. This extends from a basic camping area through to a variety of thoughtfully restored old homes and station buildings.

A restored building at the Hale River Homestead. Photo: Bob West.

The Workshop

The focal point for all of this is ‘The Workshop’. Here we were able to enjoy a good coffee and take in the memorabilia that adorns the walls. A bar is to one side of the area while a large kitchen occupies the other. Meals are served here and the family actually eat their meals there as well. As it was only lunchtime we opted to continue on through a narrow track to the Ross Highway.

Continuing along the Ross Highway. Photo: Bob West.

Arltunga Historical Reserve

After a pleasant and straightforward drive, we arrived at the centre point of the amazing Arltunga Historical Reserve. Here a number of tracks split off to take you to a wide number of walks, ruins and cemeteries.  One also leads to the Visitor Information Centre with a detailed display of the life of Arltunga, the first town in Central Australia, supported by an informative film show.

We stopped to have a gander at the Arltunga Historical Reserve. Photo: Bob West.

Trephina Gorge Nature Park

After an all too short stop at Arltunga, we moved on to Trephina Gorge Nature Park to camp. We could have stayed at the Old Arltunga Pub Campground but our time constraints meant we needed to move on. Trephina is a gem. There are a number of well-organised camping areas which were all full while we were there. Being only 85km from Alice Springs and the road bitumen, except for the last 5km, it’s a popular day trip.

Watching the afternoon sun fall over Trephina Gorge. Photo: Bob West.

Gorge Walk/Loop and the Panorama Walk

We managed two great walks during our stay – the Gorge Walk/Loop and the Panorama Walk. The Panorama has a steep approach climb that slowly reveals more of the area as you go, and eventually provides a panoramic view of the gorge and beyond. The Gorge walk starts with an easy climb above the western wall of the gorge before dropping back into the Gorge itself and then returning to the start. Both walks are a bit over 2km in length and take an hour or so to complete.

The walks, the scenery, and the colour changes during the day making this a great place to experience the feel of the East MacDonnells or as the locals say ‘East Macs’. A great finish in our journey to Alice Springs from Mt Isa.

The ascent up the Gorge Walk. Photo: Bob West.

Emily and Jessie Gaps Nature Parks

The next day we explored the small nature parks of Emily and Jessie Gaps. These have informative displays showing the Arrernte peoples connection to the land. Not long after, we headed into the milling maelstrom that is Alice Springs in high season. After the quiet of the previous weeks’ travel, this hustle and bustle needed to be experienced while we restocked supplies for our continuing journey home.

The floor of the gorge at Trephina Nature Park. Photo: Bob West

Driving through Central Australia

The Plenty Highway and the other unsealed roads are all enjoyable drives that take you through a variety of the terrains of Central Australia. However, there are some essentials that you need to tackle these roads.

Your vehicle, and the attendant camper or caravan if you have it, needs to be in good order with sound tyres and essential spares onboard. You should have plenty of water and food with you to tide you over if you break down as it’s going to be quite some time before help can be organised.

Take your time to enjoy the scenery when driving through Central Australia. Photo: Bob West.

Even though you could drive the Plenty in a day, the road conditions constantly change and would make this a seriously hard day’s drive. Better to take your time, drive to the conditions, and enjoy the journey!

What are your must-sees for a road trip from Mt Isa to Alice? 

The post The Plenty Highway: What to do from Mt Isa to Alice Springs appeared first on Snowys Blog.

In Part 2, we take on what to expect when you’re actually on the trail so that you can plan your hike accordingly.

Water sources along Larapinta

I consumed water from all the ranger maintained tanks without treating or filtering it and had no physical issues as a result. While I had plans in place to filter water, after speaking with LTTS and realising there had been no rain for nearly 6 months, it was clear that all the water had been trucked into the tanks. While I could have done a Bear Grylls and sourced water naturally from the waterholes, there just wasn’t a need to mess with the ecosystem.

I had planned my itinerary very much based on access to water. I only spent two nights without access to a tank, both on top of ridgelines in section 9 and section 11. In fact, I was really impressed with the system in place for water tank management by NT Parks and Wildlife. Every tank is monitored by satellite and when levels get low, an alert goes out that a refill is needed.

Each trailhead also has a huge capacity to hold water with many of them appearing to have 2x 10,000+ litre tanks. Through the long sections of 1, 2, 6 and 11, there was often a single tank at the halfway camp (Section 9 is long but doesn’t have a tank as it’s impossible to gain vehicle access).

One of the types of water tanks on the trail with the satellite tracking system on the left. Photo: Ben Trewren

How much water should you drink per day?

Beyond my usual 3L allocation of water to keep hydrated, I carried an additional 6L of water in section 9 to get me through the night and 12km the next day through to Ormiston Gorge. In section 11, I carried an additional 4L as I only needed to hike 4km the following morning to get through to the halfway camp at Rocky Bar Gap where there was a water tank.

I can’t stress enough how invaluable it is to get into a hydration routine right from the start. No matter what was happening, drinking a minimum of 6L for the first 3 days for me was critical. I also set myself the routine of consuming a litre of fluid before I began each morning, a litre if I reached a water tank during the day and then a litre within half an hour of reaching camp. While it often felt like I was forcing fluid into the body, it was critical in such hot and dry conditions.

The ultimate goal was to try and drink a litre for every hour I hiked, which I managed to do. The good news is that not once did I feel dehydrated – so I avoided headaches and nausea for the entire 14 days.

Shelters found at most trailheads have sleeping pads, water tanks and a toilet nearby. Photo: Ben Trewren

Facilities along the trail

Because of my plan, I spent every night, except for two, at section trailheads which meant I was lucky to have access to the trail facilities available. I still can’t believe that there is no trail fee to hike Larapinta, and you only need to pay to camp at 3 campsites.

All trailhead campsites had well-stocked water tanks and a hybrid toilet available with plenty of cleared areas for tents, some even had low table tops you could set up on. Trailheads except for Serpentine Chalet Dam, Redbank Gorge and the 3 x paid sites are also set up with a large sheltered area, 2 x sleeping pads big enough to each squeeze 4 people on and a bag storage cupboard to hide your gear from intruding animals.

The other two nights, I spent on top of the ridgeline just west of Waterfall Gorge in section 9 and at the Mt Sonder Lookout east of Rocky Bar Gap Camp in Section 11. While I needed to carry additional water for these two nights, it’s evident right along the trail that there are many ‘unofficial’ camps where hikers have cleared rocks and these two camps were no different.

It was a bit windy being up so high and exposed, but the sunset and sunrise views made it absolutely worth it. I’d encourage you to spend a couple of nights away from facilities. It’s a different and memorable way to spend a night(s) on the Larapinta, especially if up high on a ridge.

Always nice to arrive at a toilet, even if just to rest the legs… Photo: Ben Trewren

Halfway camps

Halfway camps varied, some having shelter, water tanks and toilets, others having nothing but cleared tent areas – so it’s worth double checking with NT Parks and Wildlife before departure to get up-to-date information on the facilities available.

While I didn’t experience any rain, I can imagine there would be challenges if you got caught in a downpour. It wouldn’t take much for the landscape to become quite muddy and the camping experience would no doubt be much different.

Paid Campsites available

• Standley Chasm is situated on Aboriginal Land and it’ll set you back $18.50* (cash or card) per person. This includes access to see Standley Chasm as well as a patch of green grass to camp on, with facilities including a well-stocked kiosk open from 9 am – 5 pm full of homemade food, as well as a flushing toilet and steady flowing shower.
• Ellery Creek is $5* per person (correct change required). You currently need to share the campground with the general public but there are flushing toilets available.
• Ormiston Gorge is $10* per person. Correct cash can be put in an envelope and dropped into a box (honour system), or you can pay card at the kiosk. Ormiston is a fantastic spot to spend some time separated from the general public campground. It has flowing hot showers, flushing toilets and a delicious kiosk that is open between 10 am – 4 pm.
• You only need to pay at Redbank Gorge ($5* cash) if you choose to stay in the public campground. If you choose to camp in the creek, next to the Larapinta Water Tank and 150m from the toilet, it’s free!

* Pricing at the time of writing this article.

Stunning sunset on top of the ridgeline in Section 9. Photo: Ben Trewren

Hazards of Larapinta

While the Larapinta is a beautiful trail, it can also be a brutal one. If the sun from above isn’t getting you, the rocks beneath you are and just when you think you’re on top of things, the plants from the side start coming at you as well.

1. The hot and dry air

Don’t forget to factor in how dry the air is which adds to the overall feel and temperature of the heat during the day. The dryness accelerates dehydration and without a breeze, it has an uncomfortable effect. Use it as motivation to climb up onto ridgelines and summits as you’ll usually find a breeze there.

Over 14 days, I didn’t get a day with any cloud cover so ensure you’re vigilantly sun-smart. Bring a broad brim hat (I used a highly unfashionable legionnaires hat which worked a treat with a pack), polarised sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, collar and long sleeves. These are all critical for protecting yourself from sunburn and dehydration.

2. Rocks along the trail

I know it sounds stupid for many to make this point, but the Larapinta Trail is full of rocks. Big ones, small ones, different coloured ones, sharp ones and loose ones. You need to be prepared and ready to walk on uneven terrain for pretty much the entire trail. Ensure you have the strength, not just your ankles, but in your body to handle this kind of demand.

Not only that, but you need to consider this when predicting your pace. You can’t watch your steps and the landscape at the same time.

Looking west along Razorback Ridge. Rocks, rocks and more rocks… Photo: Ben Trewren

3. Mice, Crows, Snakes and Dingoes

I didn’t see or hear a single snake or dingo (but did see tracks). However, beware of the mice and crows. Jay Creek is presently a mice haven. You need to take steps to ensure your gear and food is kept from the pesky suckers. I chose to sleep away from the shelter, bury my food in the middle of my pack and leave nothing out overnight. Don’t get complacent elsewhere… Jay Creek was bad, but I spotted mice at many other camps also.

You also need to keep an eye on the crows – while they didn’t bother me like their supporters do back in Adelaide (lol), many others shared stories of how crows got into their packs and knocked off some of their gear. Ruthless birds! I was lucky to get through my trek in the end without being defeated by any animal.

4. Flies and insects

Surprisingly, those famous Central Australian Bush Flies were never an issue to get me worked up over. Sure, there were a few days where they were buzzing about, but no more than 10 at a time. It was never in a way that flattened my spirits and certainly not enough to think anything of it in the scheme of the adventure.

But again… I know I got super lucky so I understand that they do wreak demoralisation on other people.

There isn’t a lot of shade along Larapinta due to the small leaves of the trees. Photo: Ben Trewren

5. The vegetation

The vegetation is pretty unforgiving. Between the needles of the spinifex, the prickles of the seeds and the lack of shade due to small leaves… it can often feel like nature is out to get you. It can, however, be managed. Be patient, prepare, seek shade in spots like creeks, show resilience, and take the time to clear ground before sitting down or rolling out your air mattress.

Safety with other hikers

Overall, I felt incredibly safe and everyone I met on the trail and at the campsites were very friendly. While anyone can access each trailhead by vehicle (some require a 4WD), I only encountered ‘non-hikers’ at Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge and Redbank Gorge. Obviously, it’s always important not to leave things out, which can potentially be an invitation for someone to flog it.

The view along the vistas from Counts Point in Section 8. Photo: Ben Trewren

Following the trail

The trail is in fantastic condition and really easy to follow, especially if heading East to West. I met some people heading West to East who shared concerns with following the trail. It’s often misleading because of trail offshoots and with the gradients of the ascents and descents. It’s definitely much more gradual climbing with steeper descents overall if heading East to West (which I loved).

Bottom line – if you think it looks a bit dangerous then go back 20 metres and check for an alternative path because you’ve probably ended up off the Larapinta Trail.

Phone reception and power access

It’s possible to get Telstra coverage at certain high points – but I can’t be certain about other providers. I got reception at Brinkley Bluff, Razorback Ridge, Section 8 Ridgeline, Counts Point, Ridgeline above Waterfall Gorge, Mt Sonder Lookout and Mt Sonder. I also had coverage for most of Section 1 and at Simpson’s Gap.

In terms of power access, there are powerpoints available for use at Standley Chasm and Ormiston Gorge.

 You can get coverage in some areas along the trail. Photo: Ben Trewren

Tips for leaving no trace

‘Leave No Trace’ is critical on any adventure. But it’s especially important when in a remote, sensitive and pristine environment like the Larapinta Trail. Here are a few measures I took to ensure I only left footprints and took only memories.

• Carry a sturdy rubbish bag to carry out waste, that’s animal-proof and will keep odours in.
• Take maps to ensure you stay on the prescribed trails and don’t create any unnecessary offshoots.
• Use biodegradable soaps and wipes for hygiene. Also make sure you don’t bury your wipes, instead carry them out with you as they still take time to decompose.
• Have a foldable washing bucket to prevent wasting precious water.
• Carry fuel for cooking so you don’t burn wood from the landscape which effects the ecosystem (campfires are prohibited on the Larapinta Trail).
• Carry a sturdy trowel with 1 ply toilet paper. That way you can dig holes big enough to not attract wildlife or pollute waterways once your business is done.
• Use a bag like a Scrubba to wash your clothes.
• Also, bring a clothesline so you don’t damage fragile trees when you hang up your washing.

Key pieces of gear to help me ‘Leave No Trace’. Photo: Ben Trewren

Track Report Summary:

So there you have it, a summary of my trip trekking the Larapinta trail. What’s the next adventure you want to tackle?

The post Hiking Larapinta Part 2: On the Trail appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Hiking the 12 section, 271 kilometres of the Larapinta Trail over 14 days had long been a dream, but I’d also never believed in its reality. I’m a 27-year-old fella from Adelaide who craves the adrenalin of adventure but wishes the physical challenge didn’t have to accompany it.

Until hiking the Larapinta, I’d never trekked longer than 8 days consecutively. The longest solo trip I’d undertaken was only 3 days. But here I am, now back in Adelaide after an unreal adventure and I’d recommend it to anyone.

The view of Mount Sonder at sunrise. Photo: Ben Trewren

Choosing your itinerary

I chose to hike the trail East to West (Alice Springs to Mount Sonder) for a culmination of reasons:

• This is the direction in which the trail was designed to be hiked.
• You hike what’s considered the least interesting scenery first, but you don’t really know it as you don’t have anything to compare it with.
• While the sections are longer at the beginning in terms of kilometres, I appreciated the relative flatness of starting with section 1 and 2. This allowed me some time for my body to adjust to the hot and dry climate, to my pack and to get on top of my hydration.
• I was keen to finish on a high by climbing Mount Sonder as my last adventure on the trail. Better still, I wanted to enjoy the view of Mount Sonder as I approached.
• The sun would be on my back instead of my face in the morning (I planned to start early and aimed to finish hiking early afternoon).
• I wanted to make the most of the kiosk and showers at Ormiston Gorge between sections 9 and 10.
• I had a clear timeframe, so I could confidently organise a pickup time from Redbank Gorge.

Getting started early on the long days to avoid the afternoon sun. Photo: Ben Trewren

When to Go

I was on the trail for the last week of August and the first week of September. The weather was incredibly kind to me with a daily average of 26°C and only two days above 30°C. This was such a relief as I was tormented with temperatures in the mid 30°C the week before, and similar forecasts the week after I completed the trail. Overnight was also quite mild. I never needed more than a fleece jumper and found sleeping pretty easy.

It was also a very quiet time. In total, I saw around 50 people on the trail and camped with no more than 5 people at a time. Much different to the stories from the peak period through June and July. Overall, the weather will be the biggest consideration for you when deciding to hit the trail. I was really happy with my time of year – not too hot during the day and no frostbite to my key body parts overnight.

I had clear bright blue skies every day whilst on the trail.  Photo: Ben Trewren

Duration of the trail

Having allocated myself 14 days on the trail, my navigation plan was constantly changing in the lead-up. However, I was really happy with my final decision. Hiking for 13 days and taking the opportunity for a rest day on Day 11 at Ormiston Gorge.

In a nutshell, I took a day to hike each of sections 1-8. I then split 9 in half over two days, before taking a rest day. Then 10 and half of 11 in a day, the second half of 11 the following day and then 12 on the final day. While on my day off, I tackled the Ormiston Pound Walk.

Logbooks were provided by NT Parks and Wildlife at every trailhead. Photo: Ben Trewren. 

Flights & Accommodation

I booked my flights to Alice Springs with Qantas using my Frequent Flyer points. It’s a 2-hour flight and there’s one flight a day from Adelaide to Alice Springs that usually arrives around 1 pm. And there’s another from Alice Springs to Adelaide which usually departs around 2 pm. I think it’s a very similar arrangement from other major cities.

I was fortunate to have friends who live in Alice Springs who generously picked me up and dropped me off at the airport, and gave me a place to stay. However, if you’re not as lucky as me, you can catch a shuttle for around $15 (cash) into Alice Springs Town Centre. Or a Taxi is anywhere between $30-$50 depending on your location.

Alice Springs has a range of accommodation like hostels, motels, and hotels which are all relatively affordable for what’s offered. When looking for accommodation, research pricing and then try and pick one a location close to the other services you’ll need (supermarkets, outdoor store, Visitor Information Centre, etc.).

Arriving in Alice Springs. Photo: Ben Trewren

How long does it take to complete?

One of the most adventurous things about the Larapinta Trail is that you can flexibly and safely choose your own adventure. I met some people aiming to complete the trail in 9 days, whereas I met others on their 20^th day. It really does come down to how you want to tackle the challenge. I decided based on how much walking I thought I could complete each day (around 18-20kms), access to water and that I only had 2 weeks leave available.

Upon completing the Larapinta Trail, my longest day was 31.3kms through Section 6. My shortest day was 13.5kms through Section 7.

Try to avoid focusing on the km’s marked on the trail signs as they’re frequently incorrect (due to trail maintenance, changes, etc.). For the lightweight hikers – you can save a bit of weight by allocating maps to your food drop boxes.

Often, trailheads provided as much information as the maps did… Photo: Ben Trewren

Navigation

While I don’t recommend them because they lack map detail and the information (especially trail data) is frequently incorrect, as they’re currently the only option, it’s worthwhile getting your hands on the NT Parks and Wildlife map set available here. I got word on the trail that Larapinta Trail Trek Support (LTTS) are looking to create their own maps with far greater map detail. They also want to include more interactive information on the flora, fauna, history, cultural heritage, etc., which will be a fantastic improvement.

In saying all this, the trail is incredibly well marked with the familiar blue arrows on the white signs. Because of the abundance of signage, you often wonder whether there is a need for maps or a GPS.

Just follow the blue arrows… Photo: Ben Trewren

Food Drops & Trail Support

I paid LTTS for the End to End Solo Package and couldn’t be happier with my decision. Included in the package are 3 food drops at Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek and Ormiston Gorge along with box collection after I’d passed through (allowing me to unload gear if need be).

The package also included transfer back to Alice Springs from Redbank Gorge at the end of my walk, stove fuel provisions (as it can’t be transported on a plane), organisation of the food box room keys, PLB and SPOT hire and support and advice towards my navigation plans.

I highly recommend Zac and his team from LTTS to support you when undertaking the Larapinta Trail – they offer a huge amount of support for a range of requests.

My food boxes all packed and ready to give to LTTS before the start of my trek. Photo: Ben Trewren

Other gear to leave in your food boxes

Aside from food, your food boxes are a fantastic place for a change of clothes, batteries, toiletries and extra rewards like bottles of Gatorade.

They’re also fantastic for dumping gear you no longer needed on the trail (like my down jacket), no longer wanted (books that I didn’t have the energy to read) or became unusable (certain pairs of underwear).

Put an obvious rubbish bag in your Ellery Creek box. Unlike Standley Chasm and Ormiston Gorge, there are no bins and LTTS will need to take your rubbish for you. Double layer it if necessary to prevent the smell penetrating everything else in your box.

While LTTS help organise the pickup and return of your food box room key, you need to book it yourself. It’s easy enough by just calling Alice Springs Tourism Centre and paying your $50 deposit plus $10 fee over the phone. However, be mindful that the keys can book out (especially in peak periods) and then you need to rely on others. So for peace of mind, get in early on this one.

Picking up my food box at Ormiston Gorge. Photo: Ben Trewren

Food I took for the trek

I kept my menu varied and easy as I didn’t want to be consumed with ‘cooking’ along with my hike.

Here are some of the options I carried:

• Breakfast – Muesli with Powdered Milk & Fruit Puree
• Snacks – Lollies, Dried Fruit, Shapes, M&Ms, Dehydrated Fruit Straps
• Lunch – Crackers, Tuna, Metwurst, Peanut Butter, Cheese
• Dinner – Soup Powder, Dehydrated Meals

Looking back I would probably pack more salty snack options to assist with rehydration. For me, this would’ve looked like more soup powder, salty nuts and any other savoury snacks.

Some tips for the dehydrated meals:

• Add a bit of extra water to assist with an alternative way of rehydrating.
• Wait 20 minutes rather than 10 minutes for the food to rehydrate for better flavour and texture.
• Eat straight from the bag (there’s a slit halfway down the pack to rip across and make it easy to eat from) so there’s no washing up.
• I personally found the Back Country 1 serve sizes fine for my appetite, but recognise that I’m not a big eater.

Cottage Pie they reckon! One of my favourite rehydrated meals on the trip Photo: Ben Trewren

What kind of food is available at the Kiosk?

The usual cold drinks, ice-creams and chocolate bars are available at both kiosks. But it’s the range of homemade and fresh options that I really craved – especially when spending 14 days on a hiking trail.

At Standley Chasm, I had the Lasagna ($18) which came with three generous serves of salad. They’re also open for dinner Thursday to Saturday. I came through on a Saturday so I made the most of the fresh food and had a Steak with a massive bowl of steamed veggies for dinner.

Upon arriving at Ormiston Gorge, I tucked into their Big Breakfast ($16), while also enjoying their Salad ($10) and Steak Sandwich ($10) over the course of my stay. They also do a ripper of an Iced Coffee and the cakes are worth every cent. They were also very generous to package up a Lamb and Rice ($10) for me to reheat at dinner time.

Breakfast at Ormiston Gorge Kiosk. So good. Photo: Ben Trewren

Boots & Gaiters

The important thing to know about the Larapinta Trail is that there are rocks, rocks, rocks and more rocks. This is why you need boots that offer support. The second important thing to know is that the trail conditions exceeded my expectations. Not once did I feel like the trail wasn’t ‘clear’ to hike through so it wasn’t necessary to have epic amounts of ‘protection’.

I hiked in a pair of pretty solid Scarpa Kailash GTX boots. Upon reflection, I would’ve opted for a lighter and more breathable pair of boots that still offered support. Most importantly, make sure your soles are in good nick and are durable enough to handle the rocky terrain. It’s not uncommon to hear of people’s boots disintegrating mid-trail because they lacked quality or they had been overused prior to starting. I saw one lady wearing Dunlop Volleys?!

I’m also very grateful for the advice I received beforehand to hike in shorts with ankle gaiters because that’s all I needed. I also really appreciated the ventilation from this combination. I did see a few people with trousers that zip off into shorts, which are also a great clothing option. Because the trail is in such good condition, I only experienced an occasional brush with spinifex. You always felt like you could clearly see what was on the trail. In saying all this, I didn’t even see a single snake!

Giving the feet a break and celebrating the Bombers making the AFL finals! Photo: Ben Trewren

Clothing to wear on the trail

Clothing is something I ummed and ahhed about a lot as I felt there was a fine line between getting it right and wrong. Knowing that I have a pretty warm body, but also cautious of how bitterly cold Central Australian nights can be during the winter months, it was tough to call.

I hiked in shorts and a t-shirt that were lightweight, breathable, and also super durable. On my feet, I wore my trusted Wigwam Merino Socks to look after my feet (which they did 95% of the time).

I carried a fleece sweater (which was all I needed when temperatures dropped) and a spare t-shirt to change into. At the start I had a pair of long compression tights and a down jacket, however, once I realised that overnight temperatures weren’t that cold for me, I left my jacket in a food box.

I found the compression tights fantastic to wear upon arriving at camp. Especially as they gave me the peace of mind that they would hold my legs together when I seriously doubted they would on their own.

At my halfway food box at Ellery Creek, I included a second change of clothes. I also threw fresh undies and socks into every food box (thanks, Forrest Gump) and included a fresh t-shirt for my day off at Ormiston Gorge.

On top of Brinkley Bluff. Photo: Ben Trewren

Doing laundry

I carried all my clothes in a Scrubba Wash Dry Bag because it has a range of advantages. It easily holds everything I wear, keeps out dust and moisture and has a valve for expelling air for packing. Most beneficial, however, is that when I needed to wash my clothes it did a fantastic job of breaking down the gunk without wasting too much precious water.

Don’t forget to also take along a clothesline to dry your clothes on after giving them a good scrub.

Washing day on the trail. Photo: Ben Trewren

Sleeping gear for Larapinta

When it came to sleeping, I trusted my Sea to Summit Basecamp II Bag and Thermolite Reactor Extreme Liner to get the job done, so I slept in very little, sometimes nothing which gave the skin a chance to just take it easy and breathe. Very happy with this plan of attack.

Shelter

In order to save weight and knowing I had spent over 300 nights in a swag before, I decided on a bivvy bag as my shelter. I knew that many of the trailheads already had platforms established, with shelter options available, and that packing my bivvy only required ‘stuffing’ – so I was pretty confident with my choice.

The usual setup at camp. Photo: Ben Trewren

Should you bring a tent?

Overall, I was happy and unphased with this decision until getting to Ormiston Gorge where I had thrown my 1-man Zempire Atom tent into my food box so that I had some ‘sense of security’ for leaving my gear unattended during my day off as well as when I would head to summit Mount Sonder a few days later from Redbank Gorge.

Upon picking my tent up and using it, I realised the peace of mind it gave me compared to my bivvy. At night, I could go to bed and zip up the inner and automatically my fears of what ‘may’ happen decreased. I felt much more comfortable to put a podcast in my ears because I didn’t feel the need to hear what was happening around me. I also didn’t stress about pesky mice getting into my gear as much.

In hindsight, I’m still undecided whether I would opt to carry the extra weight and spend the extra time pitching and packing up the tent for the entire journey. But I certainly appreciated ending the trip with the comfort of the tent.

Enjoying the view of Mount Sonder from the tent. Photo: Ben Trewren

Additional gear Packing Tips

Toiletries

• Lip Balm and Moisturiser are worth throwing into your toiletries because the dry air will wreak havoc on your skin.
• Tea Tree Oil helps manage the funky smells and germs coming from your feet.
• Hand Sanitiser is definitely worth it because water is scarce, plus you need to stay on top of your hygiene.
• Wilderness Wash and Wipes are a must because they’re bio-degradable and soft on the environment and they give you an opportunity to wash  – either yourself, your dishes or clothes.

Tools and accessories

• Overcome the fear of the stigma, and grab yourself a set of hiking poles. They’ll improve your balance, take the strain off your legs, provide support and at the worst, protect you against a raging animal.
• Small tweezers/Splinter Probes are fantastic for dealing with endless prickles and if needed, draining blisters.
• Carry a lightweight Solar Panel because if you get anything like the weather I did, you’ll get plenty of clear skies and pumping sun each day which is perfect to keep cameras and GPS units charged.

Making the most of the sun and charging the batteries. Photo: Ben Trewren

Hydration Gear

• Hydration Tablets are a must to stay on top of your fluid intake. They also keep your electrolyte and salt levels up and are ideal for breaking up the taste of water.
• I personally love the Nuun Active tablets as they’re low in sugar and carbohydrates and are available in a range of fruity flavours.

Comfort gear

• Throw in a packable daypack for when you reach Redbank Gorge. You won’t need to carry a full pack up Mount Sonder, just the essentials.
• Have some foam to sit on. The comfort is really appreciated by your bum and it offers fantastic protection against the prickles. I personally loved the Thermarest Z-Seat.

Sitting at the top of Serpentine Gorge at the end of section 7. Photo: Ben Trewren

Where to go from here?

In the second part of my Larapinta series, I talk about what to expect on the trail – water sources, facilities, camps, phone reception, hazards and leaving no trace on the track.

Are you prepping for a big hike like Larapinta? What do you think is the most challenging part? 

The post Hiking Larapinta Part 1: Preparation appeared first on Snowys Blog.

But here’s the rub; In that desperation to escape the cold, for many, it’s full steam ahead with as few stops as possible until that tropical warmth starts seeping into the bones.

The Stuart Highway starts at Port Augusta and takes a pretty direct northerly route to Darwin. All up it’s nearly 3000km that can be covered in less than a week. However, to do this would be to miss out on some of our most stunning landscapes and very intriguing towns. All whilst enjoying travelling through Australia’s great outback.

So here are my top places to spend some time and explore on your trek north. To do them all justice would take some considerable time, so perhaps several trips may be required.

Port Augusta – the journey starts

The Wadlata Outback Centre is a great place to start your journey. The interactive displays in the centre will provide you with a comprehensive understanding of the indigenous and European heritage of the country up to Alice Springs.

Having a context for the things you see makes them far more interesting and will add considerable richness to your journey. For more information see the Wadlata Outback Centre website. 

While at Port Augusta, you might also be interested in a trip on the restored trains of the Pichi Richi Railway. These trains follow the narrow gauge line of the original Ghan Railway from Port Augusta, winding up through the lower levels of the Flinders Ranges to Quorn. For more info head to the Pichi Richi Railway website here.

Woomera -“this is a place of legends”

Now, this is a place of legends. The British Blue Streak rocket tests, the American Narrungar Tracking Station and a testing site for Australian military tanks and other military equipment.

The infamous Woomera Immigration Detention Centre still sits unused, adjacent to the massive airfield that has recently hosted testing of the high-tech experimental SCRAM Jet.

The legendary outback road builder Len Beadell surveyed and built many of the tracks needed to follow, observe and retrieve rockets launched only a few kilometres from the town.

Although only a shadow of its former self in population, The Woomera Heritage Centre, housed in what was the United States Forces Recreation Centre documents the varying fortunes of the town and is well worth a visit.

In the centre of town is the National Aerospace and Missile Park housing a fabulous display of rocket, missiles and planes that played their part in the varied history of this place.

Coober Pedy- “the biggest opal producing area in the world”

Having lived in Coober Pedy for 6 years, I know this is a place that tourists often bypass and yet it has much to offer.

Apart from being the biggest opal producing area in the world, it also provides a unique, underground lifestyle that tourists can readily see, and perhaps even stay in. From the 5 star luxury of the Desert Cave Hotel to a number of underground camping options, this is your chance to experience something very different.

A number of opal showrooms, both above and underground will entice you to buy one of Australia’s national gemstones. For the adventurous, an underground mine tour could be just the thing.

Nearby are the Breakaways, an area of natural beauty, stunning colours and where some of the original Mad Max films were shot. You can easily spend a couple of days exploring this oasis in the desert.

Uluru and Kata Juta – “the most recognisable natural feature in Australia”

Probably one of the most, if not the most, recognisable natural feature in Australia, Uluru is a must see. This will require a 250km detour off the Stuart Highway. But combined with a visit to Kings Canyon, all on a sealed road, will loop you back to the Stuart Highway.

To see both will add an extra 830km to your trip. Nut apart from the brilliant scenery, you will most likely enjoy beautiful warm outback days, although the nights can be chilly. There are shorter options for those prepared to tackle some reasonably rough dirt road.

You should spend at least a couple of days at Uluru to experience the grandeur and mysticism of this place. A walk around the base of the rock, preferably on your own, allows you to explore in peace and quiet. This is the best way to appreciate the beauty and scale of this place.

It’ll also give you a better understanding of why Uluru is of such great significance to the local aboriginal people. To see a sunset on the rock is an unforgettable experience, but one you will not do alone.

Kata Juta is nearby and well worth the half-hour drive on a sealed road. Again, the best way to appreciate the beauty of this area is to take one of the walks that lead you to these massive rock domes.

Take a picnic lunch and give yourself a day to leisurely wander and take in the spectacle.

Kings Canyon – “one of the most under-rated natural wonders in Australia”

I believe this is one of the most under-rated natural wonders in Australia. It’s worth every minute of time taken to explore this great chasm. Kings Canyon Resort or the nearby Kings Creek Station provides a wide range of accommodation and a full day should be allowed to explore this area.

The climb to the top of the canyon is quite strenuous, so give yourself time and take plenty of water. Once at the top the pace is far more leisurely as you explore the rim of the canyon. But beware – do not go too close to the edge as this can be very dangerous.

A walk down to the bottom of the canyon into the Garden of Eden, a beautiful rock pool surrounded by lush growth, is well worth the effort.

Alice Springs – “the most well-known inland town in the country”

Without a doubt, the most well-known inland town in the country, Alice Springs, and surrounding areas provide the tourist with a wealth of attractions, both natural and man-made.

A sizeable blog could be devoted to just detailing these options, so the best bet is to make a beeline to the Visitors Centre in the middle of town and arm yourself with all the information needed. My favourite natural attractions are to be found mainly in the West McDonnell Ranges, such as Standley Chasm, Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Big Hole.

In the East McDonnells, the old gold mining town of Arltunga is fascinating and if a competent 4WDer with a high clearance, low range 4WD, Ruby Gap is brilliant.

In town, visits to the National Road Transport Hall of Fame and the Royal Flying Doctor base are very informative.

Devils Marbles – “What happened here? Why are they so round?”

You will know when you are approaching this area, as large round boulders start to appear in the relatively flat surrounding area.

What happened here? Why are they so round? A walk through this area is fascinating and, although not requiring a lot of time, it is a top place to take a break from behind the wheel, or stay the night in the nearby camping area.

The keen photographer could be rewarded with some fascinating sunset and sunrise images.

Daly Waters – “quirky”

If you are looking for something quirky, Daly Waters has it in spades. A tiny town adjacent to a WW2 airstrip, it now consists of a pub and a few very “individual” souvenir shops.

You could easily spend an hour in the pub perusing the masses of paraphernalia that adorn every available space. If the timing is right, the pub does a good meal and at the very least, a cooling beverage is likely to hit the spot.

Take the time to have a wander around the old airfield and hangar. This and other airfields along the Stuart Highway played an important role during the war and information boards in the hangar will help you understand the operation of the site.

Mataranka – “a chance for a refreshing dip “

By now the daytime temperatures are rising and the chance for a refreshing dip may beckon.

What better place to take a break than Mataranka, with its thermal springs providing the opportunity to soothe away any aches and pains and send you back on the road revitalised. You can stay in parks adjacent to the springs, with only a few minutes walk from doorway to pool.

The nearby re-creation of the Elsey Homestead, used in the making of the 1980’s film We Of The Never Never, is well worth a look with information boards providing a good insight into some of the histories of this area.

Katherine Gorge – “One of the jewels in the crown for the Northern Territory”

One of the jewels in the crown for the Northern Territory, Katherine Gorge will reward you for the time spent here. With excellent accommodation options either in Katherine or at the gorge, this is a comfortable place to stay.

Like Mataranka, a dip in the thermal springs in the middle of town is a top way to relax and soothe away any aches and pains. Unless you are into paddling, the best way to see the Gorge is on a guided boat trip. Allow a day for this as to experience the full wonder of this area it is best to travel as far up the gorge as possible.

Depending on the time of year and water levels, a full tour requires transferring from one boat to another at least once in the journey, however, the walking involved is not overly strenuous.

The indigenous guides will ensure you don’t miss any of the significant sites, the wildlife, including freshwater crocodiles, and an understanding of the significance of the area to the local people.

Litchfield National Park – “sheer beauty in quite a compact area”

Not far south of Darwin, just to the west of the Stuart Highway is the magnificent Litchfield National Park. For sheer beauty in quite a compact area, I believe this rivals Kakadu and is certainly more accessible. Massive termite mounds, cascading waterfalls and wonderful swimming holes are features of this area.

There are a wide range of accommodation options either in or adjoining the park and you can easily spend a day or two exploring.

From here in relation to what you’ve already driven it’s only a short distance to the end of the Stuart Highway where you can enjoy the sights & culture of the Top-Ends capital city, Darwin. Allow time for your next trip north to see at least some of these fabulous areas. You won’t be disappointed. 

The post Exploring The Stuart Highway appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Be aware that since the opening of the desert in 2014 there have been two significant rule changes.

1. Every vehicle must have a sand flag

Specifications:

• Minimum 300mm wide and 290mm high
• Fluorescent red/orange or lime/yellow
• If mounted on bullbar or front of vehicle must be 3.5m from ground level
• If mounted on roof rack must be 2m from roof level

For further information see National Parks South Australia.

Safety flags give drivers a greater chance of seeing approaching vehicles and minimise the risk of accidents.

2. Far more restrictive campfire rules

In Witjira National Park – including Dalhousie Springs east to Purnie Bore.

• No wood fires at any time
• Solid fuel fires allowed only in portable receptacles (including a bbq, brazier, fire box). From my reading, the definition of “solid fuel” includes things such as heat beads, briquettes, charcoal, compressed paper/sawdust artificial logs, but NOT WOOD.

In Simpson Desert Conservation Park and Regional Reserve – in South Australian section of the Simpson

• Wood fires are allowed, but you must bring your own wood.

In Munga-Thirri National Park (formerly Simpson Desert National Park) – in Queensland

• No fires of any kind are allowed.

Why it’s important to be aware of any restrictions

It pays to be aware of these restrictions and ensure you are compliant. On one trip across the desert, we were greeted by 2 Police Landcruisers sitting on top of Big Red. The officers informed us that they were just completing a joint Queensland/ South Australia operation across the desert, mainly focusing on speed. I bet this is one of the last places you would expect to encounter a radar!

The debate over trailers being used across the desert continues to rage. Don’t be surprised if this is the next restriction on the list.

For more advice and information, check out our 3 Part series on preparing and undertaking a Simpson Desert crossing.

The post Simpson Desert Alert – The Rules have Changed appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Almost as much as the Simpson Desert, Australians talk about “doing” the Tanami Track, or Road as some maps have it now. It’s one of those journeys that travellers talk about, almost using it as a yardstick of one’s bush experience.

Then, as now, once you reach Halls Creek the Kimberly and northwest Australia are open to you. Broome, Derby, the Dampier Peninsular, the Gibb River Road, the Mitchell Plateau, Fitzroy Crossing, the Bungles and Kunnunurra where the best mangoes in the world are grown. And of course the Argyle Dam.

The Tanami Track crosses the northeastern corner of the Tanami Desert in what is the red heart of Australia. It was carved out as a 1,100km, dirt road, short cut between Alice Springs and Halls Creek. Then, it was a rutted dirt track and followed a cattle droving route from the MacDonnell Ranges to Halls Creek. It was a real adventure. It was wise to keep an eye on the weather and to ring Rabbit Flat to see if the road was passable. If it even looked like rain it was wise to stay put.

Today the Road carries the road trains supplying the gold mines and is no longer the adventure it was even five years ago. Each side of the NT/WA border the local councils have upgraded the Road to take the heavy traffic. There is even talk of sealing the Road, mainly for the tourist traffic, but money will keep that a long way off.

It wasn’t a fast road then and it isn’t now. The corrugations can be fearsome. Even the road trains take it easy, not driving at their usual break-neck speed. The dust will stop you even thinking of overtaking. Pray for a cross breeze instead! It’s a road for well-prepared vehicles, not the family sedan.

I last came “down” the Road, from Halls Creek to Alice Springs, in October 2011 at the end of the dry season and before the wet. Fires had burnt out much of the country either side and were still burning with a lot of smoke. The fires are the way the land regenerates itself and are a normal part of nature. They can be started by nature, the Aboriginals as part of their land management or as a burn-off. They’re usually left to burn themselves out. To see the fires burning all around or smoke rising in the distance is a fascinating, slightly unnerving sight. In the end, it exposes the red, sandy, gently undulating, mainly featureless country for miles around so that all that is left are the skeleton branches of the burnt desert bloodwood trees in all directions. On the positive side, the fires also get rid of the Spinifex, at least temporarily!

“It wasn’t a fast road then and it isn’t now.”

I find the Tanami a fascinating part of Australia to travel through. Perhaps I have “a hunger for the wide open, empty spaces”, to loosely quote Lawrence of Arabia, and the Tanami desert certainly qualifies. There are very few large animals to see and few birds. Because of the burning, it was hard to find smaller animals or insects on my trip. In fact, there is little wildlife in the Tanami at any time. There is a wildlife reserve at Billiluna where one can view the “locals” but permission is needed to visit it.

The most wonderful feature of the Tanami is the night. On a still, calm night, away from the dust of the road trains and the smoke of the fires you can see more stars than you could count in a hundred years. The sound of the desert at night is a silence only found in deserts. I’ve been in a few deserts and lonely places but this is beautifully different. We camped about the border and even at dusk when you can usually hear the wildlife stirring, bedding down or getting up. Here, there was silence. Not even the gentle sound of an evening breeze. But it’s not a threatening silence, just quietness.

Some words of caution. If you are like me you like to know something about areas you are likely to travel through. History, the sights, population, dangers, places to stop on the way, coffee, fuel and nature stops. Google is the obvious first research target. There are a couple of good descriptions of the Track and everyone has a different perspective. Beware of any site that mentions Rabbit Flat as a place to stop. It no longer exists. Even the sign post has been removed. I would question the up-to-dateness of the site.

The Tanami Track is a lonely drive. For fuel, there are the Aboriginal towns of Yuendumu and Billiluna. They are not welcoming places and the diesel is more than twice the price of Alice Springs or Halls Creek. Wolfe Creek Crater is interesting and well worth a visit but the only facility there is an information board under a roof. The Carranya Station closed some years ago and the mines don’t welcome visitors and then only in emergencies. Take plenty of fuel and water with you – 1100km worth, plus emergencies.

At the Alice Springs end, Tilmouth Well would be worth a visit. Check the Tilmouth Well website. The best time to travel is just after the grader had been through and even then not if it has been raining to any extent.

For a wealth of advice and information on the outback tracks Australia has to offer, check out our blog for other articles our writers have produced about their travels.

The post Tackle the Tanami – Just Be Prepared! appeared first on Snowys Blog.

Barry and his convoy have now completed their adventure and are here to talk about everything else you need to know such as how much fuel you’ll need, what kind of animals you need to be wary of, and some suggested camping spots along the way!

A retrospective of our trip

We did it! Eight vehicles, sixteen adults and six kids. No tyre problems, minimal mechanical issues and apart from minor cuts and scratches, everyone safe and sound. Just like it should be and just like it can be for you with the right planning and preparation.

For almost two weeks in mid-June, the sun shone, winds were light, the days were pleasant and the evenings, although cold, were not freezing.

For me, this was crossing number three and from a driver’s point of view, the slowest but easiest. Slow because there were many undulations along the tracks that restricted speed, even in some of the flatter areas. Add to this a lot of bush dodging, the result of a number of years of good rainfall producing amazing growth that you might consider most “un-desert” like.

The easiest crossing because, again as a result of recent rains, the sand dunes were quite firm and compact. This, together with the right tyre pressure, made dune crossing much easier with most vehicles not requiring low-range, even at Big Red. Another positive side effect of this was a far better than anticipated fuel consumption – but more of that later. So, let’s look at the highlights.

Outback hospitality

As mentioned in part 2 of this series, our group decided to eat out for dinner when the opportunity arose.

So we had the pleasure of dining at Mt Dare Hotel, Birdsville Hotel, Mungerannie Hotel and the Copley Pub. In each of these places, the food was delicious, copious and very reasonably priced.

Other good meal experiences had by our group were lunch/snack at the Pink Roadhouse at Oodnadatta and breakfast and lunch at the Birdsville Bakery.

An absolute highlight was our evening at Mungerannie. The staff were entertaining and couldn’t do enough to make our stay fun. The kitchen coped with our large group exceptionally well and some of our team partied well into the night.

Simpson camping

It takes a while to get there, so make the best of it. Our plan included two full days where we stayed put and just enjoyed the desert, and what a great decision that was. On one of these occasions, we did not see another person for about 44 hours – ah, the peace, serenity and solitude. The kids could play, people went for walks around the dunes amazed at the growth and the incredible number of animal tracks and there was time for a sit-down, a read and even an afternoon back-bash.

Sometimes it is a challenge to find a good flat, clear campsite, especially with the amount of growth around, so here are three that were excellent, especially with a larger group:

• On Rig Road about 15km east of Mokari airstrip – 26 19′ 14.9S 136 36′ 02.4E
• Rig Road – 26 25′ 42.0S 137 24′ 09.0E
• On QAA line – 25 57′ 22.5S 138 00′ 12.4E

Desert Creatures

Dingoes were quite common and kept a good eye on us, coming quite close to camp and wandering through during the night. Keep an eye on the kids, especially the littlies, and don’t leave anything outside the tent or vehicle at night.

Other unwelcome evening visitors were rats. These came right up to tents and swags and were prone to nibbling – on almost anything. Our two swag dwellers found some well placed small LED lights around the swags acted as a deterrent as they do not like the light.

The other precaution we took was to lift vehicle bonnets when arriving at camp to cool down the engine before nightfall. Rats can be attracted to warm places and nibble on vehicle wiring. A small LED light in the engine bay may also be a good idea. I had never encountered the rat problem in previous trips, doubtless another by-product of the excellent conditions.

Driving

For those who love driving, and 4WDing in particular, this is a great trip. In the main, all of the outback roads leading to and from the desert were in great condition – a credit to the road crews that constantly maintain them.

Lowered tyre pressures on these roads ensured a comfortable ride and a reduced risk of tyre damage. Not one tyre issue on our entire trip! That’s 32 tyres covering a combined 26500 km – we were very happy travellers.

The desert driving was excellent with the first steep dune crossing always being a bit of a “heart-in-mouth” moment. “Will I make it??” The exhilaration of going over the top is worth any initial angst and you soon learn to gauge speed and gear choice. Sometimes you might misjudge and not quite make the top. The key here is not to sit there spinning wheels and digging holes but stop and carefully back down the dune and try again.

I’ve mentioned it a lot, but tyre pressures are critical to success. 20psi proved to be a pretty good pressure in these conditions and although there were a few “second go’s”, everyone managed very comfortably.

Big Red

If you’re travelling east, this is the last and largest sand dune of the Simpson. Everyone has to have a go at trying to climb it. There is an alternative easier crossing available if this is not your thing, but for our group, the challenge was out.

Confronted with several options, the consensus was “straight up”. Everyone made it and the view from the top, which usually is a large flat expanse and the road into Birdsville, was instead an enormous lake. This is the result of the incredible rains in the area in recent times. A number of our vehicles repeated the feat with others at the wheel just to be able to say “I climbed Big Red”.

Fuel Consumption

As covered in the previous two articles, there are a number of logistical issues to be addressed for a successful crossing, a key one being fuel.

Keeping in mind that every crossing will be different and that ours was probably on the easier end of the scale, due to the moisture in the sand, the amount of fuel used

was less than anticipated. Our entire group had considerable reserves when arriving in Birdsville, but we were prepared for the worst and as you will know, those prepared are those who won’t get caught out.

Between Mt Dare and Birdsville our group covered 640km. Fuel usage was:

• Hilux 3l turbo diesel auto – 106 litres
• Landcruiser 100 4.7l V8 petrol auto – 154 litres
• Jackeroo 3.5l V6 petrol auto – 143 litres
• Landcruiser 100 4.2l turbo diesel manual – 101 litres
• Pajero 3.8l V6 petrol auto – 141 litres
• Landcruiser 200 4.5l V8 turbo diesel auto – 103 litres
• Prado 4.0l V6 petrol auto – 120 litres
• Landcruiser 100 4.2l turbo diesel manual – 112 litres

Toileting

Our group used a variety of options, most involving a hole in the ground with a variety of seat options that are available. A pop-up shelter provides the privacy. Ensure holes are dug at least 30cm deep and that toilet paper is burnt (supervise the children).

While travelling, a dash into the bush does the job.Ladies, take a zip-lock bag with you for used toilet paper and dispose of later. For the first time ever, I took a Porta Potti and it proved to be another effective and simple toileting option.

Water

On a trip like this, water is at a premium. One way to save is to use baby wipes to clean the nether regions and provide a good level of personal freshness and hygiene. When it comes to dishes, use paper plates and bowls which can also be used to light the fire after.

Other useful information

• Fly nets: Make sure you have them.
• Fires: Bring your own wood, heat beads, briquettes, etc. There are still many old railway sleepers along the Oodnadatta Track so pick some up if you have space. Enjoy this luxury while you can as there is a proposed complete fire ban in some areas of the Simpson starting from 2013.
• Trailers: I made my feelings clear about trailers in the first article – don’t bring them. However, there are still plenty out there, including some large and substantial camper trailers. Hauling these up fragile dunes is massively wearing on both the dunes and the vehicle. It’s also responsible for many of the scallops or potholes that impede progress when nearing a dune crest. I have little doubt that they will also appear on the banned list in due course.
• Tarps: Great for providing shade, if you are spending some time camped in one spot, for giving a clean place for the kids to sit on to play games, and to put your clean gear on when setting up and dismantling camp.
• Now, I got this idea from Graham Cahill, Editor of 4WD Action magazine, and he is one tough 4wding dude – so don’t laugh. The good old-fashioned stable table is great for eating a meal sitting around the campfire. Also great for the kids to use while travelling.

Well, there you have it, a brilliant trip with everything going to plan. The Simpson is accessible to anyone with a sense of adventure, a well-prepared vehicle and a couple of weeks to spare.

With all the rain in recent years the desert is at its best, so get out there and have a look.

Have you crossed the Simpson? Let us know, we want to hear about your adventure.

The post Crossing the Simpson Desert for Beginners (Part 3) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

This article looks at what kind of gear you can bring and how you can prepare to avoid any serious problems that may come your way.

Challenge One – Water

• The general recommendation for travel in this area is to carry 6 litres per person per day and this should be carried from home.
• Don’t assume that you can fill up large water containers at outback towns or stations.
• Each litre weighs about a kilogram so keep this in mind when working out where to store it.
• There are many solutions to this from expensive purpose built water tanks to flexible bladders and the humble jerrycan.
• Purpose built tanks can be mounted under some vehicles or thin poly tanks can be mounted in the back of utes or up against the cargo barrier in wagons.
• Flexible bladders carry a surprising amount and can be stored in a variety of places in the vehicle, even on the floor in front of the back seats or between the back seats and cargo barrier.
• Ten-litre casks of spring water, available from most supermarkets, are handy for drinking water as they can be discarded (in a responsible way) when empty to save space and weight.
• The flexible casks can also be packed around other non-sharp or abrasive items.
• Another great use for an empty water or wine cask is to partly inflate it and pack in your fridge and boxes/drawers as you start to use up supplies. This stops things bouncing around on rough terrain.

If you’re going to be super cautious and serious about one thing when you head up to the Simpson Desert, make sure it’s water.

Challenge Two – Food

You will need to be self-sufficient for the number of days you are in the desert. Basic supplies are available at Oodnadatta and Birdsville. These towns, plus Mt. Dare, have pub or roadhouse meals. On our next trip, our group have decided to have the evening meal out, when one is available, thus reducing the amount of food that needs to be carried. A more expensive choice for sure but hey, it’s a holiday.

• Have enough extra food to keep you going in the event of bad weather or a breakdown where you may need to stay put for longer than you expected.
• Dried and canned food is a good solution, and don’t forget a healthy supply of chocolate (for life-sustaining energy of course).
• Even though it is good fun to cook on a fire or to use a camp oven, when wood is at a premium it’s better to keep what you can carry for a bit of warmth and ambience at night (and maybe roast the odd marshmallow).
• Cooking is much easier with gas either with the traditional twin burner stove or the small “suitcase” cookers that run on butane canisters.
• These cookers and the gas canisters are incredibly cheap, portable and work well for most general cooking. But, one word of warning – butane canisters don’t work well innear-freezingg conditions with the canisters needing to be warmed to work efficiently.

Challenge Three – Good health

Safety and well-being should be of paramount concern, after all, you want this trip to be memorable for all the right reasons. So:

• Drink, drink, drink – water that is. Dehydration will not only cause problems such as constipation and headaches but can be life-threatening.
• Carry a comprehensive first aid kit – not just band-aids but full bandages, anti-vomit and diarrhoea medications from the chemist, sting medication and antihistamines. A packet of cold and flu tablets and sore throat medication can also be handy. If in doubt about any of these, talk to your doctor or pharmacist.
• Have a good supply of prescription medications – there are no chemist shops in this neck of the woods
• Be aware of native animals – snakes and scorpions live in this area. They are generally more scared of you than you are of them. But don’t tempt fate by walking through the bush in shorts and bare feet. Be especially vigilant with children and explain the dangers to them, without scaring them to death.

Challenge Four – Having a warm bed

The desert is closed to visitors over the summer months due to the extreme weather conditions. Consequently, travel will be in the cooler months which can still bring quite warm days, but often very cold nights – zero or lower. There is nothing more certain to make for a miserable trip than an inability to sleep from being cold. To avoid this:

• Have very warm bed clothing – thermals, tracksuit or similar
• Have a sleeping bag or quilt that has a low-temperature rating
• Use an old boy scout trick – have as many layers below you as you have on top. A large amount of the cold you feel in bed comes up from the ground
• Wear a beanie and socks – a cold head and cold feet can make you feel cold all over.

If the night turns out to be warm, you can just use part of what you have.

Challenge Five – Having a warm campfire

Note – In 2014 there were some rule changes, read about them here – Simpson Desert Alert.

Once in the desert, you are in either National or Conservation Parks. Picking up any wood is strictly forbidden so if a campfire is on the agenda you must bring the means with you. Some ways of achieving this are:

• If space and weight allow, bring wood from home. If there are several vehicles in the group, get everyone to take what they can fit
• Bring a small brazier or an old “superchef” type bbq (a metal bowl on 3 legs) and use heat beads or briquettes and small pieces of wood to produce a flame. A packet of fire starters is essential with this method.
• Ecologs, or similar, can be purchased from hardware stores. These manufactured “logs” are compact and consistent in size making them easier to pack than normal cut wood
• If travelling along the Oodnadatta Track, there are still thousands of old railway sleepers along the old Ghan rail line that can be used for firewood. If you have space, grab some.

Challenge Six – Communications

The Simpson is a very remote area. Even though many people undertake the crossing, being able to communicate in the case of an emergency is essential. There are only two sure ways of achieving this:

• Satphone – these can be hired before you leave or you can use the great system provided by the Mt. Dare Hotel and Birdsville Information Centre. Pick up a phone at either of these places and drop it off at the other end. See the Mt Dare website for information.
• HF Radio – most people will not have one of these unless you are seasoned outback travellers. These days a satphone is more reliable and you can make direct contact with the emergency service required. It also allows family and others to contact you if required.

In addition, a UHF radio is essential for contact between vehicles in your convoy and with others crossing the desert.

What else do you need?

Note – In 2014 there were some rule changes, read about them here – Simpson Desert Alert.

Enough of the challenges, let’s finish with some miscellaneous items that you will need for a successful trip:

• Desert Parks Pass – You must have this permit to cross the desert. At $125, it is not cheap but comes with copious information and maps. It lasts for 12 months and also provides access to other areas, such as the Innamincka Regional Reserve. Get your pass from the South Australian Department of Environment and Heritage, the RAA or at outlets at Oodnadatta, Mt Dare and Birdsville.
• Sand flag – a long pole with a red flag on top so that your vehicle can be seen by oncoming vehicles when climbing dunes. This is essential to avoid head-on collisions and should be on at least the lead vehicle of a convoy. An old fishing rod, old radio antenna, children’s bike flag or bamboo garden stake attached to the roof rack or bull bar are simple solutions to this problem. On a previous trip, a pair of women’s red knickers made for an interesting flag
• Fly nets – get some from Snowy’s. Cheap and if flies are around you will be very thankful.

Well, all you have to do now is get up and go. We are off in a few days and will write of our experiences – what worked, what didn’t, what I haven’t included in this blog.

Catch you soon.

Next: Crossing the Simpson Desert for Beginners (Part 3)

The post Crossing the Simpson Desert for Beginners (Part 2) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

It’s a place of stark beauty and, for the most part, wonderful serenity. It is a place that is quite accessible with the right vehicle, the right preparation and the right attitude.

Not a bad part of the world, aye?

My experiences crossing the Simpson

With so many people having 4WDs, but not leaving the bitumen, the potential for many more people to experience this amazing area is enormous. This is the first of 3 articles which will cover the essentials for planning a successful crossing that will provide great stories and significant “bragging rights” for years to come. There are significant challenges, but meeting these is not only rewarding but a whole lot of fun.

Having made two previous crossings and with number three about to happen, it’s certainly not a trip I take lightly, and preparation is the key to success.

The 3 articles will cover the following: Vehicle preparation and how to get there, Meeting the challenges of remote area travel, and A retrospective: what happened on our most recent trip

Safety in numbers.

The Vehicle

• A high clearance 4WD with low range capability is a must and it must be in tip-top condition. This is not a place for all wheel drives and “soft-roaders”.
• Have your mechanic give the vehicle a thorough check and service and ensure they know you are about to do a Simpson crossing so they appreciate the importance of the job they are doing.
• It’s also important to note, even though they are not currently banned in the Simpson, that I am strongly of the opinion that this is not a place for trailers, no matter how strongly.
• The desert contains the rusting remains of many that didn’t make it, picked over for any useable parts and left as a constant reminder of the folly of this action.
• Another constant reminder of the inadvisability of trailers is found at the top of most dunes.
• The large pot holes found as you near many crests are the result of wheel-spin as vehicles try to crest the dunes. The most common reasons – trying to haul a tonne or more of trailer over the top, or tyre pressures too high causing a lack of traction.
• Having a broken down vehicle recovered from the desert could cost you thousands, so place as little stress on it as possible. I have little doubt that it will only be a matter of time before trailers are banned.

Now let’s look at some specifics.

Fuel

One of the biggest challenges of all – how do you carry enough fuel and water and not exceed your Gross Vehicle Mass?

Shade is handy in the fierce desert sun.

• Depending on where your last fuel stop is and which route you intend to take, you will need enough fuel to travel from 600 – 800km. Not nice smooth hig h range bitumen driving, but power sucking sandy tracks, dune climbs and probably some low range work for good measure.
• Obviously there will be many factors that will contribute to your fuel consumption so a very handy reference is the ExploreOz.
• Keep in mind that a good margin for error is required. Bad weather can require much harder going than usual, sucking even more fuel out of the tank.
• A long range fuel tank is a great asset here, but not essential. If this is not going to be the type of trip you do often, the expense of a long range tank is probably not justified.
• The other option is to use fuel safe jerry cans. These come in 10 and 20 litre sizes and, especially if carrying petrol, should be carried on roof racks.
• Diesel, being far less volatile, can be carried inside the vehicle. Make sure you have a funnel with a fine mesh filter to ensure no dirt gets into the tank.
• Also keep in mind that roof racks and the roof itself will have a weight limit – check your manufacturer’s recommendations. Never exceed this as broken racks from over-loading are quite common – they form another part of the litter found in the desert.
• Every litre of fuel is just under a kilogram in weight.
• You will only need to fill the jerry cans at Oodnadatta, Mt. Dare or Birdsville. I know, it’s a lot cheaper to fill up in the city or large towns and save “massive” amounts with shopper dockets, but this is false economy. The wear and tear carrying all that extra weight for great distances is not a risk you need to take. Fill these at the last possible opportunity and empty them into the tank at the earliest opportunity. This is simply good risk management.

 Tyres

A good set of tyres is essential, including a second spare. This is not an area requiring highly aggressive treads, with an all-terrain pattern usually providing better traction with less “digging in” in sandy terrain.

• A good compressor is an essential piece of kit as having the correct pressures for the terrain is one of the best actions to ensure a safe and trouble-free crossing.
• Don’t be afraid to get out and adjust pressures as often as required as laziness in this area considerably increases the risk of punctures.
• The South Australian Department for Environment and Heritage in their Desert Parks Information Pack suggest 18-20 psi (120-140 Kpa) when crossing the sandy dunes.
• A puncture repair kit is also useful for temporary repairs of small punctures. Know how to use this and perhaps even practice on an old tyre but keep in mind that these repairs are only temporary.
• Be sure to have the tyre checked out by an authorised tyre dealer as soon as possible and don’t take the risk of using a tyre you have repaired in high speed situations.
• Another great reference is the Cooper Tires “4WD Driver’s Guide” available from Cooper Tires dealers. 
• Check out Morgan’s Essential Tyre Pressure Tips for 4WDs for some extra handy hints.

Spare Parts

• The spares you carry will depend on the age of vehicle, but the most common items carried are belts, hoses, fuses and a fuel filter.
• If any of these are close to replacement, then have them replaced before leaving and keep the ones removed as spares.
• Essential fluids such as engine oil, gear oil, brake fluid and coolant should also be carried in remote areas, and some epoxy ribbon or paste can be very handy to repair small leaks in fuel tanks and radiators.
• If travelling in a convoy, share the load around – your luck has turned really bad if everyone needs the same spare!

Come prepared. 

Getting There

• For most people, just getting to the Simpson is a fairly major undertaking, so a couple of weeks, at least, are needed to provide an un-rushed, enjoyable experience.
• The most common, and easier way to cross the Simpson is from west to east, leaving from either Oodnadatta and along the Pedirka Track to Dalhousie Springs, or from Mt. Dare and then on to Dalhousie.
• This is the direction of the prevailing winds which has the effect of making the climb up the western side of dunes gentler than the steep eastern side. This factor takes on an increased importance when you realise there are about 1100 dunes to cross!!
• Some do make an east-west crossing leaving from Birdsville. This adds an extra challenge as you meet on-coming vehicles along one lane tracks and climbing steep dunes with a blind crest. The UHF will get a work out.
• It is possible to cross the Simpson following only the French Line. The shortest route and pretty much dead straight.

Take a variety of tracks

To fully enjoy the beauty of the area, I prefer to take a variety of tracks that allow you to see more of the desert and provide a more varied driving experience – not just relentless dune climbing. Sure, it takes longer, but you’ve come this far, take the time to enjoy it. Our group’s trip starts from Adelaide and takes 2 weeks. I try not to rush the days and generally plan on leaving camp by 9am and arriving by 4pm, at the latest. I’ve included a general Simpson Desert itinerary at the bottom of this article.

Don’t be put off- start planning now. If you have a reliable vehicle, there is no reason why you shouldn’t experience this magnificent area. Better still, get a group together and travel in a convoy for a lot of fun and an extra level of safety.

Next: Crossing the Simpson Desert for Beginners (Part 2)

The post Crossing The Simpson Desert For Beginners (Part 1) appeared first on Snowys Blog.

The first hour, after leaving Kintore in the NT on the Gary Junction Road, the track looks better over your shoulder. That’s not because it’s so terrible that one wants to go home, but because it presents a different historical aspect.

The track was created by Len Beadell in 1960 to give his Gunbarrel Road Construction Party a north-south access road after the Maralinga Tests. Today, it joins Docker River to Kintore; the Great Central Highway in the south to the north on the Gary Junction Road. The Sandy Blight Track was well travelled in those days but has now been overtaken by the airlines and the Stuart Highway.

The story of the naming of the Sandy Blight Junction Track goes that Len contracted the eye disease ‘Sandy Blight’ just short of Kintore. He couldn’t see to navigate so he told his bulldozer driver to head for the distinctive Mt Leisler. The ‘dozer driver took him at his word and the result is the 50 km of dead-straight road. It makes a good story.

Len made frequent use of roadside markers to record distances and note latitude and longitude for those who would nowadays have maps. It makes one think. He was actually putting the maps together- working on an almost blank sheet of paper. The only people who had been out there, apart from the very few local Aboriginal people, were the explorers and the odd pastoralist. A huge, lonely unmapped place.

While you’re looking for the markers, keep a lookout also for a large, white painted rock. It wasn’t placed there by nature. Len and his ‘dozer driver brought it down from up north and dropped it there as a joke on his crew and, later, geologists.

Despite the inevitable corrugations, the road up to here is great with a solid underfoot. Abreast the Davenport Hills, it deteriorates until it would have trouble justifying being called a track. One wash-away after another. This makes driving interesting…

And look out for the local wildlife. Camels are rampant in this area. They’re never alone but commonly roam in herds of a dozen or more. Expensive to hit, too… They usually stick to open country so, having come across several groups that actually forced us to stop, we were looking forward to the dune section.

Another feature on this section is the wrecked bus. This is almost the only wreck on this road unlike the Great Central Highway, where it is said there is a burnt out car for every kilometer. That says something for the solitude of the Track. What the bus was doing and how it got there, no-one has been able to tell me.

The sand dunes start soon after this. 50 km of driving down the slacks between the dunes until the track goes over a low bit of a dune or around the end. Then back the other way. How Len found his way through the dunes is a testament to his tenacity as well as his ability. The map says the average height of the dunes is 12m. Too high for short cuts. Did I say we were looking forward to the sand dunes? That thought didn’t last long.

At last, we were through the worst of the dunes and, as the sun was sinking, we found a spot to make camp in a small grove of desert oaks. Tent up, fire started, dinner prepared and with a drink in hand looking at a fiery sunset. It doesn’t get much better. Mind you, the thought of rain from those clouds and being stranded hereabouts had us checking the whisky supplies.

Next morning had us up with the larks looking forward to bacon and eggs cooked over a camp fire. Thinking of larks, we remarked at this point on the lack of wildlife. Plenty of camels and the odd emu but little else. The recent rain had brought green to the desert, as can be seen from some of the photos, but very little wildlife. This was September 2009 and the drought was breaking. We were prepared for moderately warm weather but wore shorts on one day only. Otherwise long trousers and long sleeves. Maybe the fauna knew it was just a little early.

Packed up and ready to go at 0800hrs. A quick check of the vehicle and … flat tyre! Found we had been staked the previous day and we knew exactly where. Rounding the end of one of the sand dunes we had skidded off a very wet track straight into the scrub. We didn’t notice anything at the time but an inch off the broken branch was still there and looking at us. Out with the tubeless tyre repair kit and half an hour later we were on our way. As a matter of interest, that tyre is still going strong with its plug still in place. It’s no longer a ‘bush’ tyre but it’s still on my vehicle, left rear, complete with plug.

First stop this day was on top of the Sir Frederick Range in WA, after a 1^st gear, low range climb. 2200 ft and no trees to hide the fantastic view. We had to have a brew and add our names to the book in the tin in the cairn.

This range is quite curious. It rises smoothly but steeply from the plain. I have not asked my vehicle to climb any track as steep. It is made up of what looks like river stones with relatively little dirt binding the stones together. The stones are about the size of a football- not large; nothing a man could not easily lift. But they were all rounded like stones, washed by water over centuries. One might think that wind and sand might have worn the stones down over the aeons, but I doubt the wearing would have been so even. If anyone has an answer to this, I would love to hear about it.

Down onto the plain again and back into the sand dunes. Not so fearsome this time, only 10 m average height we were running with them. Len described his frustration when surveying this section when trying to find his way around Lake Hopkins. On a map, the lake looks like a mass of mercury blobs but with tributaries and joining necks of land everywhere. I would not like to attempt this trip without a map, GPS and a track to follow. Again, hats off to Len Beadell.

Then, at last, one emerges from the gradually decreasing sand dunes and low trees onto the plain. The track up till now has been wheel ruts through the sand. Now there is a junction, with another road, going east to the Aboriginal settlement of Tjukurla. The road is suddenly wider and more compacted, and we can pick up speed. We’re running down the slack in between the sand dunes that are wider apart here. The road has also changed direction, from tending southerly and across the dunes to easterly and running with them.

Off to the right we’re now looking at the craggy, shattered rocks of the Walter James Range, quite different to the Sir Frederick Range. This range rises abruptly from the plain and is made of great slabs of shattered volcanic rock. The road goes round the eastern end of the range and heads more southerly as we go.

Finally, we reach the gap between the Anne Range and the Bloods Range and look for the Malagura Waterhole of Lasseter’s Reef fame, as well as the explorer Ernest Giles’ lifesaver. This is a beautiful spot in a very tough country. Unfortunately the day was overcast and chilly. I wish we’d seen it in sunlight. For the first time on this trip, we saw birdlife around this spot. Although we had seen plenty of evidence of running or flood water further up the track, this was the first water we had actually seen.

From here it’s a hop, skip, etc (15 km) to the Great Central Highway; another dirt road. The Malagura Waterhole is a beautiful end to the track. However, reality sticks its rude nose into the day’s proceedings. We were unable to top up with fuel at Kintore and, although we had enough to reach Alice Springs, my principal is to keep the tanks safely full if reasonably possible. Besides we wanted to see Giles weather station and Len’s old grader that made the road we’d just driven down. So into Warburton for fuel and then next door to Giles. This remote weather post is, to my thinking, the real end of the track. After all, Len set out from here and it was his rear support base to which he returned for fuel, water and supplies while building the Sandy Blight Track.

The Sandy Blight Track is a trip I would recommend. Not too difficult, but 4 wheel drive only. I know that people tow trailers on the track, but the way parts of it are deteriorating that wont be for long. Visually, it is full of contrast: the flat open plain to the interminable sand dunes to the gentle rounded heights of the Sir Frederick Range; the jagged Walter James Range; the dry open plain to the relief of the Malagura Rockhole.

And the history of the area. Before starting out I knew a little of the story of Ernest Giles’ expeditions through the area and the tragedy surrounding the naming of the Gibson Desert. I had travelled some of Len Beadell’s roads and everyone knows something of the legend of Lasseter’s gold reef. Since then I have read Len Beadell’s story of the construction of the Sandy Blight Track, Beating about the bush. It is so full of information I had missed that I am determined to travel that road again.

Two words on safety. We were a single vehicle expedition. On the 350 km length of the Sandy Blight Track we saw no one else. Perhaps a dangerous situation, but we had vehicle based UHF radio and a hand-held unit in case one of us had to leave the vehicle. This happened once and the hand-held was useful. It told me when to put the billy on because my companion was almost back from a walk and needed a cup of tea. Seriously, he wanted to climb Haast’s Bluff and, as I was unable to, the UHF radios were invaluable for safety. We also had a satellite phone, and I am coming to regard these as essential equipment for outback travel. EPIRB’s are also a life saver but simply say “trouble”. Sat phones can tell people what the trouble, is which can be a life saver in itself.

The second word. The explorer William Henry Tietkens wrote in his journal, after he climbed Mt Liesler in 1889, “…this desolate and waterless region…”. The explorer Ernst Giles named the Gibson Desert after a member of his 1873-4 expedition, Alfred Gibson, who was lost in the desert without water and not seen again (even by local Aboriginal people). In 1960, Len Beadell commented in his book that he was probably the second white man to climb Mt Liesler. Today the region is still “desolate and waterless”. It is not to be entered without caution.

Happy exploring.

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